26
Contents Contents Welcome to Kyoto ............ 4 Kyoto’s Top 10................... 6 What’s New ...................... 13 Need to Know .................. 14 Top Itineraries ................. 16 If You Like… ...................... 18 Month by Month .............. 21 With Kids ......................... 24 For Free ........................... 26 Like a Local ..................... 28 Eating ............................. 29 Drinking & Nightlife..... 36 Entertainment .............. 38 Shopping....................... 40 Temples & Shrines ....... 42 Plan Your Trip page 1 Understand Kyoto 149 Survival Guide 183 Kyoto Maps 214 Plan Your Trip 4 Explore Kyoto 44 Transport ...................... 184 Directory A–Z ............... 190 Language ...................... 198 Index ..............................208 Kyoto Today .................. 150 History ............................152 People & Culture .......... 164 Arts & Crafts .................. 167 Architecture & Gardens.. 175 The Tea Ceremony ....... 180 Neighbourhoods at a Glance............................ 46 Kyoto Station Area ......... 48 Downtown Kyoto ............ 54 Central Kyoto .................. 69 Southern Higashiyama.. 79 Northern Higashiyama .. 92 Northwest Kyoto .......... 104 Arashiyama & Sagano ........................... 112 Kitayama Area & Greater Kyoto ................ 119 Day Trips from Kyoto............................ 130 Sleeping.......................... 139 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ContContentsentsmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/kyoto-5.pdfContContentsents Welcome to Kyoto 4 Kyoto’s Top 10 6 What’s New 13 Need to Know

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ContentsContents

Welcome to Kyoto ............ 4

Kyoto’s Top 10 ................... 6

What’s New ......................13

Need to Know ..................14

Top Itineraries .................16

If You Like… ......................18

Month by Month ..............21

With Kids ......................... 24

For Free ........................... 26

Like a Local ..................... 28

Eating .............................29Drinking & Nightlife.....36Entertainment ..............38Shopping ....................... 40Temples & Shrines .......42

Plan Your Trip page 1

Understand Kyoto 149

Survival Guide 183

Kyoto Maps 214

Plan Your Trip 4

Explore Kyoto 44

Transport ...................... 184

Directory A–Z ............... 190

Language ...................... 198

Index ..............................208

Kyoto Today .................. 150

History ............................152

People & Culture .......... 164

Arts & Crafts ..................167

Architecture & Gardens.. 175

The Tea Ceremony ....... 180

Neighbourhoods at a Glance ............................ 46Kyoto Station Area .........48

Downtown Kyoto ............ 54

Central Kyoto .................. 69

Southern Higashiyama .. 79

Northern Higashiyama .. 92

Northwest Kyoto .......... 104

Arashiyama & Sagano ........................... 112

Kitayama Area & Greater Kyoto ................ 119

Day Trips from Kyoto ............................ 130

Sleeping..........................139

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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ES ©

Left: Nishiki Market (p 56 )

Above: Kiyomizu-dera (p 81 )

Right: Tōfuku-ji (p 76 )

DowntownKyoto

SouthernHigashiyama

Arashiyama& Sagano

CentralKyoto

Kyoto StationArea

NorthwestKyoto

NorthernHigashiyama

Kitayama Area &Greater Kyoto

p119

p104p112

p69

p48

p79

p92

p54

MA

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IN M

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©

Neighbourhoods at a Glance . . . . . . . . . . . . .46

Kyoto Station Area . . .48Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52

Downtown Kyoto. . . . . 54Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . .64Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .65Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65

Central Kyoto . . . . . . . 69Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 78Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78

Southern Higashiyama . . . . . . . . 79Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . .89Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .90Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91

Northern Higashiyama . . . . . . . . 92Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 102Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 102Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102

Northwest Kyoto . . . 104Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 111Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111

Arashiyama & Sagano . . . . . . . . . . . . 112Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117

Kitayama Area & Greater Kyoto . . . . . . 119Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121

Day Trips from Kyoto . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130Nara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131Osaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134Miyama-chō . . . . . . . . . . . . 137

Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . 139

ExploreKyoto

44

Higashi Hongan-ji ............. 50

Nishiki Market ...................56

Kyoto Imperial Palace & Imperial Palace Park ......... 71

Kiyomizu-dera ................... 81

Chion-in ..............................82

Nanzen-ji ........................... 94

Ginkaku-ji ...........................95

Kinkaku-ji .........................106

Nijō-jō ...............................107

TOP SIGHTSKYOTO’S

45

Chris Rowthorn Chris has lived in Kyoto since 1992. Soon after his arrival, Chris started studying Japanese language and culture. In 1995 he became a regional correspondent for the Japan Times. He joined Lonely Planet in 1996 and has worked on guides to Kyoto, Tokyo, Japan and hiking in Japan. When not on the road, he seeks out Kyoto’s best restaurants, temples, hiking trails and gardens. Chris wrote a book in Japanese with professional guide Koko Ijuin, called Pro ga Oshieru: Genba no

Eigo Tsuyaku Gaido Skiru (Pro English Guide Skills), for Japanese guides who want to explain the country to Western tourists. He conducts walking tours of Kyoto, Nara and Tokyo. Check out his website at www.chrisrowthorn.com and his blog at www.insidekyoto.com.

Our Writer

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9835th edition – Feb 2012ISBN 978 1 74179 401 4© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Day One Southern Higashiyama (p 79 )

M Start your Kyoto experience by head-ing to the city’s most important (and

popular) sightseeing district: Southern Hi-gashiyama. This area contains the thickest concentration of worthwhile sights in Kyoto. See p 85 for a description of the main sight-seeing route here.

Northern Higashiyama (p 92 )

R If you have the energy after lunch, continue heading north along the

base of the Higashiyama mountains. Start at Nanzen-ji and follow the Path of Philoso-phy (Tetsugaku-no-Michi) all the way to Ginkaku-ji, stopping at Hōnen-in along the way. See p 98 for a description of the main sightseeing route here.

Downtown Kyoto (p 54 )

N After dinner, head back to your lodg-ings (which may very well be located

in Downtown Kyoto). You’ll probably be pretty walked out if you’ve done both South-ern and Northern Higashiyama in one day, so a short amble around the streets of Down-town Kyoto will probably be suffi cient to round out this day.

Lunch Eat at a restaurant on Sanen-zaka/Ninen-zaka or on Sanjō-dōri.

Dinner Omen (p 100 ), a fabulous noo-dle restaurant, is close to Ginkaku-ji.

Day Two Arashiyama & Sagano (p 112 )

M After exploring the Higashiyama on Day One, you’ll want to head west to

the Arashiyama & Sagano district, which has a dense concentration of fi rst-rate sights. The typical route involves starting at Tenryū-ji and working your way north to Giō-ji or Adashino Nembutsu-ji. See p 115 for a description of the main sightseeing route here.

Northwest Kyoto (p 92 )

R It makes sense to stay on the west side of town in the afternoon of this day.

Take a taxi from the end of the morning’s route or lunch stop to Kinkaku-ji and/or Ryōan-ji. If you still have energy to burn, you can check out Myōshin-ji late in the afternoon.

Downtown Kyoto (p 54 )

N Like Day One, this is a pretty big day, with a fair bit of transport, so

you probably won’t feel like doing too much walking on this evening. Again, we recom-mend some strolling around Downtown Kyoto. The atmospheric lane of Pontochō is a great place to wander, as is Kiyamachi-dōri, particularly the stretch between Shijō-dōri and Gojō-dōri.

Lunch Eat near Keifuku Arashiyama Station or along the route at Komichi.

Dinner Head back downtown (p 58 ) to eat near your lodgings.

Top Itineraries

16

Day Three Southeast Kyoto (p 124 )

M You’ll probably be feeling like a break from the crowds about now.

For this reason we suggest heading to Southeast Kyoto. Here, you’ll fi nd two absolutely ripping attractions: Tōfuku-ji (don’t forget to enter the Hōjō Garden) and Fushimi-Inari-Taisha, Kyoto’s mind-blowing Shintō sanctuary.

Downtown Kyoto (p 54 )

R After exploring Southeast Kyoto in the morning and eating lunch

downtown, it makes sense to spend the afternoon exploring Downtown Kyoto and perhaps doing some shopping. Be sure to take a pass through the wonder-ful Nishiki Market, then visit one of the awesome ‘deppa-chika’ (department store basement food fl oors) at nearby Daimaru or Takashimaya department stores. Then, walk through the Teramachi Shop-ping Arcade. When the covered section runs out, keep following Teramachi as far as Marutamachi-dōri (the last few blocks contain some of Kyoto’s best tradi-tional shops).

Gion District (p 87 )

N This day involves less walking than the preceding two, so it’s a great day

to do our Gion evening walking tour (p 86 ).

Lunch There’s not much to eat near the above, so head downtown (p 58 ).

Dinner Eat dinner downtown (p 58 ) or across the river in Gion.

Day Four Kitayama Area (p 119 )

M Today’s the day to step off the beaten track and immerse yourself

in some greenery. Heading north into the Kitayama (Northern Mountains) is the perfect way to relax after three days of ur-ban sightseeing. Heading to Kurama and hiking over the hill and down to Kibune is our favourite day trip out of the city. Other options include Ōhara or Takao.

Central Kyoto (p 69 )

R If you spend the morning in the Ki-tayama, you will probably return to

Kyoto city in the early afternoon. If this is your last day in the city, you might want to spend the remainder of the day shopping for souvenirs in Downtown Kyoto. But, if you still have the energy for sightseeing, you might consider visiting the enclosed Zen world of Daitoku-ji. Other options include Nijō-jō or a stroll in the Kyoto Imperial Palace Park.

Downtown Kyoto (p 54 ) or Gion (p 87 )

N If you haven’t done it yet, try the Gion evening walking tour (p 86 ).

Otherwise, fi nd a bar downtown and rub shoulders with the locals as you reminisce about your time in the Old Capital.

Lunch Eat in Kurama, Kibune or Ōhara (pack a lunch for Takao).

Dinner Eat dinner downtown (p 58 ) or across the river in Gion.

17PLAN

YOUR TRIP TO

P IT

INER

AR

IES

214

Border Crossing

CyclingFerryMetroMonorailParkingS-Bahn

Train/RailwayTramTube StationU-BahnOther Transport

Cable Car/Funicular

AirportCafeDrinking & Nightlife

Shopping

Entertainment

Eating

Canoeing/KayakingSkiingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Sports &Activities

Diving/Snorkelling

BuddhistCastleChristianHinduIslamicJewishMonumentMuseum/GalleryRuinWinery/VineyardZooOther Sight

Beach

Bus

Taxi

Embassy/Consulate

InternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

Hospital/Medical

Bank

CampingSleeping

Disputed

Regional/Suburb

Marine Park

Cliff

Wall

State/Province

International

Walking TourDetour

Walking Tour

Path

Lane

Tertiary

Freeway

Primary

Steps

Plaza/Mall

PedestrianOverpass

Secondary

Unsealed Road

Tunnel

Tollway

Intermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveReefCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier

River/Creek

LighthouseLookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

Hut/Shelter

Cemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)Park/ForestSportsgroundSight (Building)Top Sight(Building)

Beach/Desert

Map Legend

AreasBoundaries

Hydrography

Geographic

Transport

Information

Drinking & Nightlife

Shopping

Entertainment

Eating

Sleeping

Sports & Activities

Sights Routes

Kyoto Maps

215

CENTRALKYOTO

KYOTOSTATION

AREA

NORTHWESTKYOTO NORTHERN

HIGASHIYAMA

KIBUNE

KURAMA

KAMIGYŌ- KU

MINAMI-KU

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Takara-ga-ike

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2 Imperial Palace Area (p 219 )

3 Kyoto Station Area (p 220 )

4 Southern Higashiyama (p 222 )

5 Northern Higashiyama (p 224 )

6 Arashiyama & Sagano Area (p 227 )

7 Northwest Kyoto (p 228 )

8 Ohara (p 230 )

9 Kurama & Kibune (p 231 )

MAP INDEX

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SOUTHERN HIGASHIYAMAæ Top Sights (p81) û Drinking & Nightlife (p89) Chion-in........................................................D2 29 Bar Main Higashiyama...............................C4 Kiyomizu-dera.............................................D5 30 Gael Irish Pub.............................................. B2

31 Gion Finlandia Bar...................................... B3 æ Sights (p83) 32 Gion S........................................................... B2 Gion Corner .......................................(see 36) 33 Kisui..............................................................B3 1 Gion District.................................................B2 34 Pig & Whistle................................................B1 2 Kawai Kanjirō Memorial Hall .....................B5 3 Kennin-ji .......................................................B3 ý Entertainment (p90) 4 Kōdai-ji .........................................................D3 35 En.................................................................. C2 5 Kyoto National Museum ............................B6 36 Gion Corner................................................. B3 6 Maika ............................................................A3 37 Gion Odori ...................................................C2 7 Maruyama-kōen..........................................D2 38 Kyō Odori..................................................... A4 8 Ninen-zaka...................................................D4 39 Kyoto Cuisine & Maiko 9 Rokuharamitsu-ji ........................................B4 Evening .....................................................C3 10 Sanjūsangen-dō..........................................B7 40 Minami-za.................................................... B3 11 Sannen-zaka................................................D4 Miyako Odori..................................... (see 36) 12 Shōren-in ..................................................... D1 Tōzan-Bar.......................................... (see 44) 13 Yasaka-jinja .................................................C3

þ Shopping (p91) ú Eating (p87) 41 Kagoshin.......................................................C1 14 Asuka............................................................ D1 42 Takematsu ...................................................B1 15 Bamboo........................................................ C1 43 Tessai-dō.....................................................C3 16 Gion Karyō ...................................................B3 17 Hisago...........................................................C4 ÿ Sleeping (p145) 18 Issen Yōshoku .............................................B2 Gion Hatanaka .................................. (see 39) 19 Kagizen Yoshifusa ......................................B2 44 Hyatt Regency Kyoto................................. B7 20 Kasagi-ya .....................................................D4 45 Kyoto Yoshimizu.........................................D2 21 Machapuchare ............................................A6 46 Ryokan Motonago ...................................... C3 22 Omen Kodai-ji..............................................D4 47 Ryokan Uemura..........................................C4 23 Ōzawa...........................................................B2 48 Sakara Kyoto................................................C1 24 Ryūmon........................................................ C1 49 Seikōrō......................................................... A5 25 Santōka........................................................ B1 50 Shiraume ..................................................... B2 26 Senmonten ..................................................B2 27 Shibazaki......................................................C5 28 Yagura ..........................................................B2

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æ Top Sights (p94) 29 Kailash ......................................................... C5 Ginkaku-ji .....................................................G2 30 Karako..........................................................B6 Nanzen-ji ......................................................F6 31 Okariba ........................................................ E5

32 Okutan ......................................................... F6 æ Sights (p96) 33 Omen.............................................................F2 1 Eikan-dō ...................................................... G6 34 Shinshindō Notre Pain Quotidien..............C1 2 Fureai-kan Kyoto Museum of 35 Torito............................................................ A5 Traditional Crafts.....................................C6 36 Zac Baran .................................................... C5 3 Heian-jingū...................................................C5 4 Hōnen-in.......................................................G3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p102) 5 Konchi-in...................................................... E7 37 Kick Up..........................................................E7 6 Kyoto Municipal Museum of Art...............D6 38 Metro............................................................ A5 7 Kyoto Municipal Zoo...................................D6 8 Murin-an Villa ..............................................E6 ý Entertainment (p102) 9 Nanzen-in..................................................... F7 39 Kanze Kaikan Nō Theatre.......................... C7 10 Nanzen-ji Oku-no-in ...................................G7 11 National Museum of Modern Art..............C6 þ Shopping (p102) 12 Nomura Museum........................................ F6 40 Chion-ji Tezukuri-ichi..................................C1 13 Okazaki-kōen...............................................D6 41 Kyoto Handicraft Center...........................C5 14 Path of Philosophy 42 Tōzandō....................................................... C5 (Tetsugaku-no-Michi) .............................G2 43 Zōhiko .......................................................... C5 15 Reikan-ji ...................................................... G4 16 Tenju-an ....................................................... F7 ÿ Sleeping (p147)

44 Koto Inn ....................................................... C7 ú Eating (p100) 45 Kyoto Garden Ryokan Yachiyo..................E7 17 Au Temps Perdu .........................................C6 46 Three Sisters Inn Annex............................D5 18 Ayatori.......................................................... C1 47 Three Sisters Inn Main Building ...............D4 19 Café de 505 .................................................C6 48 Westin Miyako Hotel...................................E7 20 Cafe Proverbs 15:17.................................... C1 21 Cafe Terrazza..............................................G3 ï Information (p190) 22 Earth Kitchen Company.............................A5 49 Kyoto International Community 23 Falafel Garden ............................................. B1 House.........................................................E7 24 Gallery Coeur...............................................D5 50 Kyoto University Hospital .........................B4 25 Gōya...............................................................E1 26 Grotto ............................................................E1 ï Transport (p187) 27 Hinode Udon................................................ F5 51 Demachiyanagi Bicycle Parking 28 Hyōtei ...........................................................E6 Lot ..............................................................A1

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KIBUNE

KURAMA

Kibune-gawa

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14 Ryokan U

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1

KURAMA & KIBUN

E

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