23 L i feStyle | Travel 2 4 • 0 2 • 2 0 1 9 Sunday Times

LOOKING UPOUR SA WILDLIFE SPECIAL

Terms & Conditions: Prices are per person twin share, include discounts, and are subject to availability and rate of exchange changes. Offers above are a guide only and will vary depending on departure date, our guide price is based on the cheapest departure within the stipulated season and availability is correct at time of loading. Visas may be necessary and insurance is essential. Pentravel and Tour Operator terms and conditions apply, and may be found on our website. Airfares are subject to availability. Our fares always include baggage allowances. These packages are based on CASH price. Terms & Conditions apply. E&OE.

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Mumbai Seat Sale R4 990

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Phuket Direct via Singapore R6 790

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BEACHCOMBER PLUS FACTORS: 1 child U6, shares & eats for FREE

FREE kids club daily for 3 to 11 years FREE baby room 15% off spa treatments

All facilities between the three 4-star resorts are interchangeable Up to 20% saving on selected excursions

5% Repeat Guest discount

MAURITIUS IS ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA! We’ve included 5 nights stay PLUS flights from Joburg

from only R14 990pps

Valid: 1 – 13 June 2019

Includes: Breakfast and dinner daily, free motorized water sports!

from only R15 330pps

Valid: 1 – 13 June 2019

Includes: Breakfast and dinner daily, free motorized water sports!

BOOK BY 28 FEB ’19! 4 star Mauricia Beachcomber

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28 L i feStyle | Travel 2 4 • 0 2 • 2 0 1 9 Sunday Times 37 L i feStyle | Travel 2 4 • 0 2 • 2 0 1 9 Sunday Times

LOST IN LOVEIts name means ‘love ’ in Zulu and the dreamy Thanda Safari private

reserve in KZN certainly stirs that feeling in Pearl Boshomane Tsotetsi

Near-death encountersalways make for greatdinner conversation .

If you love a littleattention and a captiveaudience, you can thrillthem with your storyabout how truly luckyyou are to be here – sti l lalive – after you almostlost your life. It’s thestuff Discovery IDdocumentaries aremade of. And it’s oftenexaggerated (what’s astory without a little

extra dramatic effect thrown in?)Well, I have my own near-death

encounter story to share, and I will be tellingit at dinner tables until I’m 87 and mychildren are rolling their eyes so far back thatthey ’ll be able to see the day of Shaka Zulu’sbirth .

On a mildly warm Sunday morning, fivewomen and two men (a head ranger and aranger-in-training) went on a speciallyrequested bush walk somewhere on14,000ha of gorgeous, scenic, Instagram-worthy land in KwaZulu-Natal.

We wanted to see lions. We were guests ofThanda Safari private game reserve, and theestablishment ’s then-head ranger MornéHamlyn led us to a spot where we might findthe alleged king of the jungle (I reckon the

lionesses are the real kings, but that’s notwhat we’re talking about here).

We found one lazing about in an openfield. It was, according to Hamlyn, a safedistance away. Some of us (read: me) wantedto go closer, but we couldn’t because ourranger had to remind us that lions aren’tcute, cuddly cats — they ’re killing machines.This wasn’t The Lion King.

Although a few hundred metres away, itsroar made it seem closer. Instagram storieswere taken (two of us on the trip weremillennials) and Boomerangs were filmed (ifyou don’t know what that is, please upgradeyour Instagram game). And then we gotmoving. Walking in an orderly fashion(straight line, but lots of talking), writer LucyO’Connell, who was behind me, suddenlywhispered: “There ’s a rhino!”

“Where ? ” I asked.“Right f***ing there!” she hissed.

As if on cue, a rhino came charging out of thebush nearby. Clearly scared, the panickinganimal stomped around and past us, and atone point was a few small steps away fromgoring one of us.

Hamlyn banged on his rifle to distract andscare off the animal (and got incredibly closeto it), while the five of us scurried away intothe bush, following the trainee ranger,Ronnie Nsukwini, trying not to panic anddefinitely trying not to run.

And the lion was no longer lazing about –it was moving closer to us to see what the

commotion was. So there we were, caughtbetween a lion and a rhino, escaping into abush which we very shortly after found outwas also harbouring a lioness and her cubs.Yikes .

But, we got away safely, thanks to Hamlynand Nsukwini .

Okay, so it wasn’t a near-death encounter,but it could have been. And I hope you readthat story in David Attenborough’s voice.

SIMPLY THE BESTOnce back in the safety of our vehicle, wequickly headed back to the enticing arms ofthe lodge, which is — and I mean every word— the most incredible I have ever set foot in.

Surrounded by lush vegetation and thoseclichéd rolling hills of KwaZulu-Natal, thereserve (and other properties in the Thandastable) is owned by Swedish businessmanand philanthropist Dan Olofsson.

A large majority of its employees are fromthe surrounding communities and there’s anemphasis on — and appreciation of — Zu luculture that doesn’t feel contrived,appropriated or disrespectful.

Take, for instance, our accommodation.The Safari Lodge, painted a dark salmoncolour which surprisingly complements itssurroundings, has rondavel suites.

It gives off the vibe of being in thecountryside, but it’s also comforting forophidiophobics (like me) to know thatthere ’s no corner for snakes to hide should

they wish to share your accommodation.The lodge offered an interesting dilemma.Because of the land it’s built on and theanimals that roam here, you want to headout on a game drive or a bush walk.

You want to see the rhinos grazing, ratherthan charging at you. You want to see thegiraffes taking leisurely walks through thetrees and you want to witness elephantherds gathering and playing at wateringholes for over an hour (a spiritual experiencefor those who adore the tempestuous giants).You also want to head to the spa and getpampered silly.

These are all experiences we had atThanda in a few short days. (Thanda is alsobig on conservation, and it especially looksafter its rhino population — for obviousreasons . )

But you also want to stay in your roomand enjoy the jaw-dropping views of thesurrounding trees. You want to lounge in thatoutdoor pool or take a nap or read a book onthe gloriously oversized lounger. You want tosoak in the oval, deep red bathtub that alsooffers a view of the land.

No wonder tourists love our country so

much — it truly is beautiful. A place likeThanda reminds you just how achinglygorgeous SA is .

IMPRESSED IN TENTSAnother Thanda property, its tented camp afew kilometres away, is not as luxurious butthat doesn’t make it any less enjoyable.

If you like the fine things in life (hot water, acomfortable bed and luxurious bedding) youwill be at home here — this is glamping,darling .

Before arriving, I was a tad unsure aboutsleeping in a tent — any form of camping isn’tsomething I’m interested in. But Thanda’stented camp was fit for Tatler-reading British

aristocrats enjoying themselves in the landthey once colonised. No sleeping on the floorhere. The mini hikes to each room are good foryour thighs and will definitely test your fitnesslevels .

You can also visit nearby communities(great for tourists, meh for locals) and betreated to a candlelit outdoor dinner featuringsome impressive and acrobatic Zulu dancersand drummers.

ON THE CATWALKThe game drives at the tented camp — and thesafari lodge — are so breathtaking sometimesyou feel as though you must be dreaming. It’sas if all the animals in the kingdom decidedthis is fashion week, the land is their catwalkand we are their captive audience, cameras inhand, Instagram accounts at the ready.

Our guide on these drives was ChristianSperka, a former IT professional who nowspends his time showing guests aroundThanda ’s expansive land, taking incrediblepictures of the wildlife (we saw him in actionmany times) and also teaching them how tomake the most of their cameras (he does givelessons, but be sure to book in advance).

Sperka ’s right-hand man is the charmingBheki Ngubane, whose voice could rival JamesEarl Jones’.

Thanda Safari is definitely worth the seven-hour drive we made from Joburg to northernKwa Zulu - Natal .

Thanda — which means “love ” in Zulu —lives up to its name. It’s the kind of place youfall in love with instantly. I have neverstruggled to go home as much as I did when Iwas there.

As singer Sophie Ellis-Baxter asked: If thisain ’t love, why does it feel so good?

Pearl Boshomane Tsotetsi was a guest ofThanda Safari

Thanda Safari Lodge has special rates forSADC residents — 40% off normal rates,all year, no matter the season.

The usual rates are as follows:Thanda Safari Lodge per person sharing

per night is from R4,450 (kids aged two-16pay 50%). This includes luxuryaccommodation, two game drives per daywith professional guide and tracker, allmeals and selected local beverages,bush walks with specialist guides, in-roomminibar, wifi and laundry (and one privateboma dinner with stays of four nights ormore).

The Thanda Tented Camp cost perperson sharing is from R2,379 per night(kids aged six-16 pay 50% of adult rate).The Jabula Tent starts from R2,917 peradult sharing per night. This includes twogame drives per day, all meals and selectedlocal beverages, in-room minibar and wifi inpublic areas. (No children under six).

Where you’ll stay

CREATURES GREAT AND GREATERClockwise from top left: Lionesses with theircubs, a pair of cheetahs, and some elephantscross the road — all spotted in the ThandaSafari reserve. Pictures: Christian Sperka

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