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spr ing ’ 1 1
toronto sect ion
alpine club of canada
spring
’11
The ACC Toronto Section Newsletter is produced by To-
ronto Section members and published 2 or 3 times per year. Full
colour electronic copies of the newsletter from winter 2000 -
present can be found on our website: http://www.climbers.org
Remember that we rely on your contributions to keep the
newsletter full of interesting content. Please contact the editor
with your ideas! The next edition of the newsletter will be pub-
lished in Fall 2011. Send article submissions to
[email protected] before September 1st, 2011.
NEWS & EVENTS:
Sierra Nevada Mtns California Mountaineering CampJoin the first Toronto Section Mountainering camp south of the border! July 22-August 1, 2011 ~$800 Cdn.
Bon Echo 101“Bon Echo 101 is a chance for new climbers or climbers “Bon Echo 101 is a chance for new climbers or climbers without a climbing partner to join in a rope team with some of our veteran leaders.”
Bon Echo Custodians 2011
Bon Echo Report 2010
Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour in TorontoMarch 25, 26 and 27, 2011 at the Bloor Cinema
Half Price Climbing NightsHalf Price Climbing Nights
STORIES:
A Ski Week in the Backcountry“There is nothing in the world like going out onto an “There is nothing in the world like going out onto an untouched, open, virgin mountain slope drenched under a thick blanket of new powder snow. It gives a supreme feeling of freedom, mobility. A great sense of flying, moving anywhere in a great white paradise.”
Wallace Richard Joyce (1915 - 2010)
A Trip to the Coast Range of British Columbia”Why go to the Coast Ranges? Because they are simply ”Why go to the Coast Ranges? Because they are simply wonderful, a vast extent of mountains (mainly made of excellent granite); glaciers and icefields, extending as far as the eye can see.”
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Toronto Section newsletter \ Spring ‘112
16
[COVER] Base camp on Le Fjord du Saguenay, QC James Rosselet[LEFT] Jon Rigg jumps to safety before the tide rises, below Cap Trinité, QCJames Rosselet [RIGHT] Renée Dimond and Winnie Tsai climb “Inferno” (5.9), Bon Echo James Rosseletsp
ring
’11
AC
CE
SS
LE
AD
ER
SH
IPA
CT
IVIT
IES
BO
N E
CH
OA
DM
INIS
TR
AT
ION
CO
M
Chairperson and National
Club Section Rep.
Past Chair
Secretary
Treasurer
Membership
National AwardsNational Awards
Section Committee
Website
Newsletter
Bon Echo Co-Chairs
Boat Coordinator
Bon Echo Committee
Activities Co-ChairActivities Co-Chair
Activities Co-Chair
Rock Climbing
Mountaineering
Ice Coordinator
Activites Committee
Access Reps
Leadership ChairLeadership Chair
Sandra Bowkun
Paul Geddes
Susan DeWolfe
Karen McGilvray
Helen King
Dave Myles
Dave MylesDave Myles
Graham Longford
Ron Rusk
Kit Moore
Chris Rogers
Danielle Beaton
Larry Forsyth
Derek TongDerek Tong
Dave Myles
Derek Tong
Rob LeBlanc
Rob LeBlanc
Dave Britnel
Stephanie Mahallati
Janet TrostJanet Trost
Don Collier
Boris Kaschenko
Kit Moore
Luke Myles
Boris Kaschenko
Sandra Bowkun
Larry ForsythLarry Forsyth
Roger Wallis
416-482-1526
416-406-1303
416-465-0660
416-222-3251
416-222-3251
416-580-8114
416-469-3567416-469-3567
905-729-4768
617-584-4194
905-825-3356
416-651-4603
416-222-3251
416-651-4603
416-571-0894416-571-0894
416-571-0894
905-330-8120
905-884-4098
905-629-1646
416-4693567
905-629-1646
416-482-1526416-482-1526
905-825-3356
416-248-1526
[email protected]@climbers.org
[email protected]@climbers.org
3climbers.ORG
ACC Toronto Section Executive
B A C K C O U N T R Yi n t h e
a s k i w e e k
4
b y m i k e s t e i n
B A C K C O U N T R Y
[PHOTO] Skinning to Moul Mike Stein 5
\
Trip Participants: Leonie Knaus Trip Participants: Leonie Knaus
(organizer), Mandana Amiri, Carl
Douglas, Paul Geddes, Robin Roff, Ray
Rutitis, Melinda S., Martin Siegert,
Madeline Stein, Michael Stein
For more information about Wells Gray
visit: http://skihike.com/
[ABOVE] Preparing to Descend Table MountainMike Stein[LEFT] Ray Rutitis -this isn't Collingwood Mike Stein
6
Sierra Nevada MountainsSierra Nevada MountainsSierra Nevada Mountains
Events List OnlineFor an up-to-date list of the ACC Toronto Section Spring/Summer events go to: climbers.org/event
interested?
JOIN THE FIRST TORONTO SECTIONMOUNTAINEERING CAMP SOUTH OF THE BORDER!
JOIN THE FIRST TORONTO SECTIONMOUNTAINEERING CAMP SOUTH OF THE BORDER!
• July 22nd - August 1st 2011
• ~$800 Cdn (includes food, dorm and ground transportation -flights to Las Vegas extra)
•• Staying at the Bernasconi Education Centre in Big Pine, CA. Two 12 person dorms (3 bedrooms each), Extra washroom and shower facilities. Full Dining area (breakfast and dinner catered)
• Climb routes from East Face of Mt. Whitney to Fairview Dome in Yosemite
• Visit the world’s oldest trees or the famous tufa of Mono Lake
50
interested? Contact Rob Le Blanc at [email protected] or (416)-571-0894
7climbers.ORG
Mt. Whitney
Fairview Dome Mono Lake
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8[PHOTO] Van Van Kaenthongrath and Danny Guestrin on a winter ascent of “Compulsion,” (5.10+) Bon Echo James Rosselet
9
b o n e c h o c u s t o d i a n s 2 0 1 1
10 Toronto Section newsletter \ Spring ‘11
subject to change, please check http://climbers.org/bonecho/custodians.html
DATE CUSTODIAN PHONE EMAIL EVENT
Apr 30-May 01
May 07-08
May 14 -15
May 21-23
May 28-29
June 04-05
Co-ordinator:
June 11-12
June 18-19
June 25-26
July 01-03
July 09-10
July 16-17
July 23-24July 23-24
July 30-Aug 01
Aug 06-07
Aug 13-14
Aug 20-21
Aug 27-28
Sept 03-05
Sept 10-11Sept 10-11
Co-ordinator:
Sept 17-18
Sept 24-25
Oct 01-02
Oct 08-10
Oct 15-16
Docking In
Long Weekend
Bon Echo 101
Park staff talk 26
Long weekend
Park staff climb
Long weekendLong weekend
Ox-Roast
Thanksgiving Wkd
Docking Out
Eric Grenier
David Lue
Mike Stein
Ron Rusk
Helen King
David Lue
Rob WoodRob Wood
Rob LeBlanc
Josee Duckett
Kit Moore
Chris Rogers
Martin Suichies/
Michelle chin
Adam PhillipsAdam Phillips
Janet Sainsbury
Eric Grenier
Geoff Hodgson
Rob Wood
Chris Talbot
Adam Phillips
Janet SainsburyJanet Sainsbury
Calvin Klatt
Dave Myles
Luke Myles
Ron Rusk
Helen King
Calvin Klatt
Derek TongDerek Tong
Rob LeBlanc
Josee Duckett
613-482-1543
416-916-7177
905-274-3018
416-466-5610
416-466-5610
416-916-7177
519-572-6490519-572-6490
416-571-0894
416-469-3567
905-729-4768
905-627-8267
613-726-0024
613-355-8187
613-482-1543613-482-1543
519-572-6490
905-916-0316
613-726-0024
613-355-8187
613-234-2072
416-222-3251
416-560-3251416-560-3251
416-466-5610
416-466-5610
613-234-2072
416-651-4603
416-571-0894
[email protected]@dobber.ca
[email protected]@gmail.com
[email protected]@sympatico.ca
[email protected]@metrohmca.com
like what you’re reading?we’re always looking for interesting stories
and exciting photos for the newsletter
the deadline for the Fall edition is September 1, 2011
send ideas, photos, articles, random musings,comments, questions, criticisms to
[email protected]@climbers.orgsee http://www.climbers.org for submmission guidelines.
write for us,inspire us.11
[PHOTO] Van Kaenthongrath screams his way up a climb in Elora, ON James Rosselet
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12 Toronto Section newsletter \ Spring ‘11
13climbers.ORG
14 Toronto Section newsletter \ Spring ‘11
[PREVIOUS PAGE] Wally Joyce at the Tsar Glacier in 2000 Roger Wallis [RIGHT] Roger Wallis (l), Peter Brogden (m) and Wally Joyce (r) at Sapphire col Roger Wallis
-Roger Wallis
15climbers.ORG
A trip to the Coast Rangeof BritishColumbia,what we learned -and how it can help you by Roger Wallis
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So, in the last thirty odd years why haven’t we been?It’s so big, where do you start? OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO O ow do you even get there?, etc.So, can we help to encourage you to go?
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16 Toronto Section newsletter \ Spring ‘11
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17climbers.ORG
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DonDon Serl, 2003, e Waddington Guide, Alpine Climbs in one of the World’s
Great Ranges, Elaho Publishing
Dick Culbert, 1965/1968, A Climber’s Guide to the Coastal Ranges of British
Columbia, International Border north to Nass River, published 1969, Alpine Club of
Canada
John Baldwin, 1999, Mountains of the Coast, Photographs of remote corners of
the Coast Mountains, Harbour Publishing
JohnJohn Baldwin, 2009, 3rd Edition, Exploring the Coast Mountains on Skis. A
guide to Ski Mountaineering, self published
18 Toronto Section newsletter \ Spring ‘11
[PREVIOUS PAGE] Paul Geddes and Patrick Lloyd skiing below Mt Cerberus(3150m) on the Upper Sumquoit Glacier Roger Wallis[LEFT] Bill McKenzie en route to Mt Beelzebub (2820m) Roger Wallis
[TOP] NW face of Princess Mt (2880m) Roger Wallis[BOTTOM] The formidable Mt Cerberus (3150m) Roger Wallis
19climbers.ORG
[PREVIOUS PAGE] Paul Geddes and Patrick Lloyd skiing below Mt Cerberus(3150m) on the Upper Sumquoit Glacier Roger Wallis[LEFT] Bill McKenzie en route to Mt Beelzebub (2820m) Roger Wallis
[TOP] NW face of Princess Mt (2880m) Roger Wallis[BOTTOM] The formidable Mt Cerberus (3150m) Roger Wallis
19climbers.ORG
TORONTO SECTION
TRIP PARTICIPANT GUIDELINES AND TRIP MATRIX
The leadership committee is developing best practices to ensure that our section trips continue to be enjoyable, safe and meet the increasingly diverse needs of our members.
We have followed the lead of other sections and developed guidelines appropriate to the Toronto Section. Included are We have followed the lead of other sections and developed guidelines appropriate to the Toronto Section. Included are degrees of difficulty and trip classifications allowing both participants and coordinators to select and lead trips that suit their abilities and objectives.
GUIDELINES FOR TRIP PARTICIPANTS• Ensure that your membership in the Alpine Club of Canada is current.• Understand and complete the liability waiver form.• Trips are designed to be informative and social but not instructional.• Sign up for trips that will challenge you, but are not beyond your abilities.• If inexperienced, go on easier trips first. Look at the trip classifications below prior to making your decision.• Ensure that you have the necessary equipement and that it is in good condition.• Ensure that you have the necessary equipement and that it is in good condition.• Try to learn about the location and available routes of a climbing area before you attend. Ensure that you register with the trip coordinator prior to the event. Do not just ‘show up’ at the cliff.• Understand that you are responsible for your safety and that safety is everyone’s responsibility.
Rattlesnake Point 5.3 and up
Buffalo Crag 5.3 and up
Kelso 5.4 and up
Niagara Glen Bouldering
• • “A” Trips ar suitable for beginner outdoor climbers. Participants are not required to lead but must have belaying skills. Mostly single pitch trad or sport routes with an easy approach. Equipment requirements include harness, helmet, rock shoes and at harness, helmet, rock shoes and at least 1 locking ‘biner.
Mt Nemo 5.6 and up
Old Baldy 5.9 and up
Metcalf 5.7 and up
Devil’s Glen 5.8 and up
Rumney, NH 5.8 and up
• • “B” Trips are suitable for outdoor climbers with experience following or leading mostly single pitch trad or sport climbs. Participants must be able to belay a leader, clean gear, follow a route, have rope management skills and knowledge of anchors. Equipment requirements of anchors. Equipment requirements include harness, helmet, rock shoes, 2 locking biners and a belay device. The approach may be longer and climbs more difficult to get to.
Bon Echo 5.5 and up
Lion’s Head 5.9 and up
Gunks, NY 5.4 and up
Dacks, NY 5.8 and up
Seneca, WV 5.7 and up
• • “C” Trip is suitable for outdoor climbers experienced in leading or following single and multipitch trad routes. Participants must have rope managment skills, knowledge of anchor systems and route finding abilities. Participants must also have experience in must also have experience in rappelling and confidence with exposure, hanging belays and some knowledge of first aid techniques and rescue systems. Trips may have a long approach, be in a remote area and could be up to a full day or 12 or more up to a full day or 12 or more hours.
Rattlesnake Point 5.3 and up
Buffalo Crag 5.3 and up
Kelso 5.4 and up
Niagara Glen Bouldering
•
Mt Nemo 5.6 and up
Old Baldy 5.9 and up
Metcalf 5.7 and up
Devil’s Glen 5.8 and up
Rumney, NH 5.8 and up
•
Bon Echo 5.5 and up
Lion’s Head 5.9 and up
Gunks, NY 5.4 and up
Dacks, NY 5.8 and up
Seneca, WV 5.7 and up
•
Rattlesnake Point 5.3 and up
Buffalo Crag 5.3 and up
Kelso 5.4 and up
Niagara Glen Bouldering
•
Mt Nemo 5.6 and up
Old Baldy 5.9 and up
Metcalf 5.7 and up
Devil’s Glen 5.8 and up
Rumney, NH 5.8 and up
•
Bon Echo 5.5 and up
Lion’s Head 5.9 and up
Gunks, NY 5.4 and up
Dacks, NY 5.8 and up
Seneca, WV 5.7 and up
•
intermediate ‘B’ trip advanced ‘C’ tripbeginner ‘A’ tripTRIP MATRIX
Please check classifications before signing up for a trip. If you have any questions, be sure to contact the trip coodinator.
WAIVER FORMSPlease remember that you will be asked to sign a waiver for every outdoor trip in which you participate. Copies of the waiver
can be obtained at http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/activities/waivers.html.
If possible, please print a copy of the release, and bring it with you on the trip. If you are not able to read and print it before the trip, the coordinator will have a copy for you at the designated meeting place prior to the event. You will have time to read and sign it there.
• Read and understand the release before signing and dating it. This release is easy to read and is available in French and English.• If you have any questions about the meaning of the release, please ask the trip coordinator to explain in detail.• You cannot change any terms of the release prior to signing it.• The witness to your signature must be a non-family member. It is preferred that the witness is an Alpine Club member,
volunteer, or employee. The witness should confirm that you have read and understood the release.• Do not rush through reading the release - leave yourself ample opportunity to read and understand its terms in advance of your chosen activity.• If you refuse to sign the release, you will not be able to participate in the chosen activity.
20 Toronto Section newsletter \ Spring ‘11
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b o n e c h o r e p o r t2 0 1 0
22
-Ron Rusk
[PREVIOUS PAGE] Cam Ross watching the ACC boat from Boris’ Route (5.5) James Rosselet[PHOTO] Sunset at Mazinaw Rock (can you spot the climbers?) James Rosselet
half priceclimbing nightswith your ACC membership
5155 Harvester RoadBurlington, 905-633-7625ACC’s newest partner gym! Courses for all levels, all day every day at this state-of-the-art facility.1/2 p1/2 price: first and last Friday of every month.
[PHOTO] A chilly night on Le Fjord du Saguenay, QC James Rosselet
27 Bathurst StToronto, (416) 703-3434The Rock Oasis offers two 60-foot-high, steep roof routes, lead climbing and top roping. 1/2 price: first Tuesday of every month
75 Carl Hall Rd, Unit #14Toronto, 416 398-ROCK (7625)TTrue North offers 50 top-ropes, with 2 routes per rope, 15 lead-only routes, >150 boulder problems and 2 slacklines. 1/2 Price: last Wednesday of the month.
11 Curity AvenueToronto, (416) 406-5900Faces, cracks, overhangs, caves! 13,000sq.ft. of top-roping, leading and bouldering. World Cup walls by Pyramide and Entreprises1/2 p1/2 price: every Sunday.
660 Bayview Drive, Unit #4, Barrie 705-727-1161Simcoe CountySimcoe County’s only full service indoor climbing facility. We offer indoor and out door climbing from beginner to advanced! Need gear? 1/2 Price: Every Sunday.
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