Modernise, Build Quality and Upgrade Skills; Ludhiana Knitwear Cluster

By J.N.Vohra, B.Text, M.Tech, F.I.E., C.Eng., M.I.M.A

There is difference between garments made from woven fabrics, knitted fabrics and knitwear made directly from yarns. In case of garments made from woven and knitted fabrics, the value addition on the fabrics, such as dyeing, printing, finishing has already been accomplished before these fabrics are cut and stitched to form a garment. Tirupur is the prime centre of the industry that makes garments from knitted fabrics and Ludhiana is the prime centre that mostly makes knitwear straight from yarns.

Ludhiana Cluster

In Ludhiana, we can easily see goings-on in the knitwear units that revolve around the production and sale of knitwear garments. Knitwear are a highly distinguished category, in terms of design and quality and hence, price. Over the years, knitwear products are becoming highly fashionable, embellished and as comfort wear.

In case of knitwear, the yarns supplied by spinning mills are directly converted in the garment form. The yarns are either greige or dyed or are fancy such as Grindle, slub, boucle, snarl, and crinkle or in other forms. There are a large number of suppliers selling different grades of yarn and these yarns are procured by producers to initiate the production process.

Here, most of the knitwear producers or exporters generally confine to stages such as knitting, cutting, stitching and finishing activities and get the prior stages done by specialized firms.

The knit-in designing and fashioning of the knitwear is done on individual machines, either manually operated or on computerised machines by individual workman. It is important that individual worker behind these machine is fully skilled. However, some value addition, such as panel printing, embroidery, applique work, attachments of frills, beads and zardosi work etc. is accomplished either within the units or are sent out to specialised persons or firms.

On the other hand, the industry making garments from woven or knitted fabrics needs to be seamlessly linked with fabric manufacturers/suppliers, dyers, printers all along the value chain

The garment and knitwear sector has usually been viewed as a major source of employment generation. Rapid expansion of the garment industry within the last two decades has certainly given a boost to job creation, which is otherwise less than ten per cent in the South Asian countries

Bangladesh's RMG sector — composed of the knitwear and woven garments, is employing 1.8 million people, most of whom are women. Tirupur cluster generates direct employment for over 3 Lakh persons and Ludhiana provides direct employment to 4 Lakh persons out which 40% are migrants.

Knitwear exports are mainly from five South Asian countries; Bangladesh, India, Nepal, Pakistan and Sri Lanka. Collectively, these countries have generated sizeable employment in the recent years. Ludhiana exports knitwear and knitted garments worth Rs.1200 Crore and about Rs.800 Crore knitwear are indirectly exported, being outsourced by Delhi exporters.

Build Quality

Many studies done earlier have determined that Ludhiana Knitwear industry lacks quality consciousness at the different levels of management. Many a times, units resort to using inferior materials and non-standard methods due to the cost factor, thus compromising the quality aspects. Though, many computerised machines have been installed in Ludhiana, but still majority are still manual knitting and perhaps would remain so for many years to come.

At this juncture the realisation has dawned upon Ludhiana Knitwear manufacturers that for the production of quality knitwear improvised and new techniques and methods are required to maintain stringent quality measures to bench mark with the best of the knitwear industry all over the world. They also now realise that implementing such systems in Ludhiana knitwear industry are paramount to sustain the city as a prime destination for outside buyers coming to India.

Nevertheless, factors such as lack of unskilled workers and executives, lack of coordination between different segments of knitwear industries and educational institutions is urgent need to bring quality awareness at all level of operation.

It is essential for units engaged in export business to sustain a high level of quality to build creditability and ensure better business globally. As we know that quality control standards for export are stringent. Bad supplies not only affect export business of an individual firm but can also damage the prestige of other suppliers in the country.

In the knitwear industry quality control need to be practiced right from the initial stage of sourcing yarns to the stage of final finished garment. There are numbers of factors on which quality of knitwear industry is based such as -performance, reliability, durability, visual and perceived quality of the garment, however, quality needs to be established within the ambit of costs vis-à-vis selling price.

The apparent quality of knitwear is comprised of a number of features; ultimately, these are those features that achieve the desired level of satisfaction for the customer. For exporting units, quality control starts even before the sales contracts have been finalised and it extends to timely delivery, correct packing, and after-sales service. All these functions are supposed to be performed by merchandisers employed by the company. Since much is at stake, the company has to ensure that these merchandisers are highly skilled to perform their jobs.

Modernise

Thankfully, the amount of investments in terms of plant & machinery and overheads in a knitwear unit is not very high, what is required is efficient management for adopting lean production system, waste reduction and timely deliveries for exports.

In case of hand Flats, to produce knit structures for a given knitwear designs and qualities, the companies install machines with various specifications; gauges, jacquard and intarsia, and attachments for plaiting. The making up is done by Linking machines, Stitching machines of different varieties, Button Holing and Stitching machines followed by finishing on Washers, Tumble Dryers and Flat-bed steam presses.

Computerised machines and stitching and making up equipment with modern technology by itself are no guarantee for quality. It is the skilled persons at the back of the operations that maintain consistent quality at a productivity level since they possess an eye to detect and rectify errors at every stage. The talent of inspection of individual knitwear before they are packed is a highly skilled job.

If a knitwear manufacturer decides to install high value modern equipment, it necessitates:

• Investments • Up gradation of skills • Improvement in layouts • Usage of good quality materials• Mind set for maintaining adequate environment • Back-up with managerial skills

It has been seen that modern technology and up gradation of skills surely contribute to maintain perfection in productivity levels for particular set of knitwear designs, however, the real advantage flows from improvement in the working environment and paying attention to workers’ concerns to enable workers to utilize their skills to make optimum use of the technology employed, Ludhiana knitwear manufacturers now understand this..