Lumen for AI - Research File

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Illustrations

Illustrations

Illustrations

Illustrations

Illustrations

FAUX UNIFORMITY

While surface appearance may be singular or repetitive, underlying make-up remains texturally and culturally diverse.

michaelrolph.co.uk

Buttons by Sascha Pophlepp, 2006-10 Silver sleeves by Tom Burr, 2009

Blind camera

Unlike an ordinary camera, Sascha Pohflepp’s Buttonscamera has no lens – as you press the button, the cameramemorises the exact time and searches on the net for otherphotos that have been taken at that very same moment.Essentially, it is a camera that takes other people’sphotographs. Buttons promotes a global identity and resistsadding ever more images to the net by supplying you analready existing photograph.

www.blinksandbuttons.net

Silence in the charts

Recently, an unlikely song made its way into the musiccharts in the UK – a track containing no music whatsoever.The two-minute silence cost 99p on iTunes and proceedsbenefited the British Armed Forces charity. This wasn't theonly silent single attempting to hit the charts: anunsuccessful campaign was launched to get the John Cagetrack 4'33" to the top of the UK Christmas charts.

Monochrome Meal by Marije Vogelzang, 2009 Mitose series by Amba Molly, 2010

Serene palettes

Dutch designer Marije Vogelzang creates eating conceptsas part of an increasing investigation into food by artistsand designers. She looks at food with an artist’s eye andencourages a contemplative eating process. A repeatingtheme in her work is achromatic meals, for which shecollects only white foods. The food is arranged on a whitetablecloth and cooked simply to "yield a serene palette".

Evolution of the generic

Ceramics designer Amba Molly showed her Mitosecollection at the 2010 Dutch Design Week. Starting withfour generic products - a plastic bottle, an oil pitcher, aTupperware can and an earthenware vessel – she creates acollection of hybrids made from slices of each. The result isa product made up of opposing forms but, throughmultiplicity, the collection takes on a uniform appearance.

INFLUENCES

QUIET PROTEST

This is a new form of intelligent activism that operates non-violently and under the banner of neutrality.

Uma Wang Switcheroo photograph series, 2010

China New Wave

Chinese fashion designer and knitwear specialist UmaWang’s neo-unisex collections are becoming one ofChina’s most celebrated couture brands. Wang headlinedat the recent Shanghai Fashion Week, just opened herflagship store in Xintiandi and received the Best DesignerBrand Award from the Fashion Life Group in Beijing.

www.umawang.com

Switcheroo

Sincerely Hana is a Vancouver-based portrait photographerand DJ. Her original and light-hearted project, Switcheroo,is an ongoing photograph series involving couplesconvinced to switch looks with each other, from clothing tohairstyle. The couples are photographed twice in the exactsame spot, creating an almost identical composition.

sincerelyhana.com

Young protesters working the land at Choi Yuen Chuen CV Dazzle by Adam Harvey, 2010

Peaceful revolt

The Express rail link planned between Hong Kong city andShenzhen in China has met with deep resistance. Theclearance of a village for an emergency station hasvillagers and activist groups putting up banners andchanting "no removal". However, a group of young studenthave joined the protest using unexpected methods: eachweekend, they relocate to the village and quietly work theland as a statement on preserving its lifestyle.

Silent action

Adam Harvey’s CV Dazzle™ project is a series ofcamouflage options using hair and make-up stylingtechniques that prevent detection by face-recognitionsystems such as Facebook, Google's Picasa and Flickr. He iscurrently working on a how-to manual that promotes somehighly unexpected styling options where hair is cut ormoulded to disguise and disorientate the facial features – asilent, visually expressive combat.

cvdazzle.com

INFLUENCES

INFLUENCES

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INFLUENCES

* Etymology

The term refers to the white dress shirts of male office

workers common through most of the nineteenth and

twentieth centuries Western countries as opposed to

the blue shirts, uniforms or cover-alls of manual or

service workers.

The term "white collar" is credited to Upton Sinclair, an

American writer, in relation to modern clerical,

administrative and management workers during the

1930s, though references to "easy work and a white

collar" appear as early as 1911.

“WHITE COLLAR”

Innovative basic

Multi-function/ simple amalgamation / clever use

Pure

Elegant/ appealingly simple/ unobtrusive

TREND SELECTION Innovative Basics

Multi-functionality/ Simple Amalgamation/ Clever Use

Subtle movement

Kinetic/ repeat feature/ visual play

Highly strung

Tension loaded/ clever detail/ innovative fastening

TREND SELECTION Subtle Movement

Kinetic/

Repeat Feature/

Visual Play/

Pleating/

Layering/

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A/W 12/13 WOMEN'S OCCASIONWEAR: RADICALNEUTRALITY, GO NOW HERE

By WGSN Womenswear team, 12 September 2011

Mood & colourMoodAn occasionwear collection inspired by 90s minimalism with an urban edge.

Pure, unstructured pieces are inspired by the square. Realised in layered, relaxed styles that play with transparency and opacity,the collection is aggressively modest. Casual fabrications are made luxurious with jersey blends and cotton poplin juxtaposedwith silk chiffon, organdy and organza, creating a blank canvas for abstracted typo prints and subtle shifts in perception.

ColourTo express a barely there feeling of radical simplicity, the palette has been reduced to three essential neutrals: off-white, mid-grey and dark charcoal. Interest is created by layering opacities and transparencies through fabric combinations, thus generatingdifferent tones within each colour.

Due to possible variations in your screen's output, PANTONE® Colours displayed here may not match PANTONE-identifiedstandard.

Please consult current PANTONE® Colour Publications for accurate colour.

Anonymity

Anon tonal

INFLUENCES

What is Recycled Leather?

The process of recycling leather involves treating and recycling leather residues that are discarded by tanneries and other leather product industries and using it in the production of composite materials. To recycle leather, first the leather residues and scraps must be shredded. Next, the resulting blend of shredded leather material is glued together with resin and catalyzers. This product is then pressed between metallic molds of various shapes and sizes, or directly on sublayers to form plywood's, and then structured into the desired item. The final product has a very polished appearance and there is no need for any additional finishing. Recycled leather products are esthetically pleasing, soundproof and even

have heat insulation properties.

Leather recycling companies are also beginning to take it one step further and are becoming very conscious of the impact their recycling processes have on the environment. They utilize procedures that minimize harmful emissions and save energy. These companies use natural rubber to bond the leather

scrap, reducing the need for any harmful chemicals or harsh glues in their recycling process. They use natural tanning oils and vegetable tannins to color the recycled leather products and are able achieve the desirable appearance of full grain leather, all while avoiding the use of any toxic metals. This process results in a highly flexible and breathable recycled leather product that can be used for the most delicate of leather items, including upholstery and clothing.

THREE ELEMENTS: LEATHER

Leather is made from animal skins or hides and come in irregular sizes dependent

on the the animal they come from. The procedure used to treat the raw animal

hides is tanning.

There are two options:

§  Vegetable tanning.

End product: furniture, luggage, harnesses etc.

§  Mineral tanning.

End product: small leather goods (fashion) and footwear.

Each hide has to be inspected for holes and imperfections and therefore extra

percentage in size has to be added to every calculation for each product.

THREE ELEMENTS: LEATHER

Metal Ring (655) Width 57mm. each: £2.55 (ex. VAT) Colour Name: Old Gold Old Silver 10 pieces: £15.20 (ex. VAT)

50mm D-Ring (600/50) Width 50mm. each: £1.30 (ex. VAT) Colour Name: Antique Gold Nickel Old Silver Gold 10 rings: £9.75 (ex. VAT) 100 rings: £78.00 (ex. VAT)

MATERIALS RESEARCH

Metal Ring 40mm (8954/40) Size 40mm. each: £2.45 (ex. VAT) Colour Name: Brushed Cooper Brushed Gold 10 rings: £18.35 (ex. VAT) 100 rings: £146.80 (ex. VAT)

All supplies from MacCulloch & Wallis, London

MATERIALS RESEARCH

Belt Screws 8mm (988) Size 8mm. each: £1.10 (ex. VAT) Colour Name: Nickel Gold Antique Gold 10 screws: £9.00 (ex. VAT) 100 screws: £54.00 (ex. VAT)

Screw-In Sam Browns 12mm (989) Size 12mm. each: £1.10 (ex. VAT) Colour Name: Nickel Gold Antique Gold 10 Sam Browns: £9.00 (ex. VAT) 100 Sam Browns: £54.00 (ex. VAT)

Screw-In Belt Screws (8953) Size 8mm. each: £1.45 (ex. VAT) Colour Name: Matt Gold Matt Silver Shiny Gold Shiny Nickel 10 pieces: £10.40 (ex. VAT) 100 pieces: £80.00 (ex. VAT)


MATERIALS RESEARCH

Metal Ring (653) Width 30mm. each: £1.00 (ex. VAT) Colour Name: Gold Nickel 10 pieces: £7.40 (ex. VAT) 100 pieces: £58.00 (ex. VAT)

Metal Ring (654) Width 36mm. each: £1.85 (ex. VAT) Colour Name: Matt Gold Matt Silver 10 pieces: £13.75 (ex. VAT) 100 pieces: £100.00 (ex. VAT)


S/S 12 CATWALK INVITES: PACKAGING ANALYSIS

By Alice Clarkson, WGSN, 19 October 2011

The WGSN Packaging & Branding team analyses the most directional catwalk invites from the four fashion capitals.

WGSN KEY TAKEWAYS

Colour was big for S/S 12 - from lemons and limes to bright blue tones and tropical summer brightsSpliced pattern and imagery were used to create playful invites, in line with WGSN's spring/summer 2012 JPEG Genmacro trend

Embossed pattern on white was used for a sophisticated and understated coolInvites features scarf-style patterns echoing the catwalksMetallic borders and paisley motifs were key

Modernist

Clean and considered design

Colour-blocking

Minimal sans-serif typography

Lemon & lime

Casadei spring/summer 2012 catwalk invite C'N'C Costume National spring/summer 2012 catwalkinvite

Margaret Howell spring/summer 2012 catwalk invite

MODERN GRAPHICS

EARLY DESIGN RESEARCH


EARLY RESEARCH

EARLY RESEARCH


Spikes and studs in jewellery design referencing fences,

barriers and feeling of sharpness


•  Texture combination: soft/ flaky (feathers, fabric) versus hard (metal, wire) •  Feeling of movement and suspension at the same time

EARLY RESEARCH

•  Niger Delta •  Damage to nature and impact

on the local living environment •  Burning Oil •  Waste



LAUNCH INVITATION

MODERN GRAPHICS

Bold typography

Black on white

Clean and informative with simple graphic design

Iridescent metallics

Soft metallics for subtle luxury

Pearlescent finishes

Embossed and metallic printed text

Blind embossing

Y-3 autumn/winter 2011/ 12 catwalkinvite

Véronique Leroy autumn/winter 2011/12 catwalk invite

Paco Rabanne autumn/winter 2011/ 12catwalk invite

Mik Cire autumn/winter 2011/ 12catwalk invite

Roland Mouret autumn/winter 2011/12 catwalk invite

Empororio Armani autumn/winter2011/ 12 catwalk invite

BW BOLD

Bold 90s graphic design-inspired posters

Mix image and type in bright colours on white

A3 folded format

Fancy folding

Origami-inspired triangular folds

Playful invites you want to keep

Metallic printing adds luxury

Printed textures

Versace autumn/winter 2011/ 12catwalk invite

Tess Giberson autumn/winter 2011/ 12catwalk invite

Jean-Charles de Castelbajacautumn/winter 2011/ 12 catwalk invite

Issey Miyake autumn/winter 2011/ 12catwalk invite

Versus autumn/winter 2011/ 12catwalk invite

Mulberry autumn/winter 2011/ 12catwalk invite

Bold 90s graphic design-inspired posters

Mix image and type in bright colours on white

A3 folded format

Fancy folding

Origami-inspired triangular folds

Playful invites you want to keep

Metallic printing adds luxury

Printed textures

Versace autumn/winter 2011/ 12catwalk invite

Tess Giberson autumn/winter 2011/ 12catwalk invite

Jean-Charles de Castelbajacautumn/winter 2011/ 12 catwalk invite

Issey Miyake autumn/winter 2011/ 12catwalk invite

Versus autumn/winter 2011/ 12catwalk invite

Mulberry autumn/winter 2011/ 12catwalk invite

FOLD-OUTS

LFW EXPO STAND

TAG DESIGN

Prim palette

Classic navy and white for a clean look

Polka dots and half-tone patterns

Handwritten type creates a personal feel

All-over florals

Floral invites in bright colours

Oversized and distorted patterns

Tropical styles

Kinder Aggugini spring/summer 2012 catwalk invite Tess Giberson spring/summer 2012 catwalk invite Osman spring/summer 2012 catwalk invite

Peter Pilotto spring/summer 2012 catwalk invite Luisa Beccaria spring/summer 2012 catwalk invite Sergio Rossi spring/summer 2012 catwalk invite

PRIM COLOURS

3D fancies

Playful 3D designs with an artisanal, crafted appeal

Metallic paper and plastic ruffles are engaging and playful

Practical and beautiful fan design

JPEG gen splicing

JPEG Gen-style designs

Spliced and layered imagery mixing metallics and coloured prints

Giles spring/summer 2012 catwalk invite John Rocha spring/summer 2012 catwalk invite Moschino spring/summer 2012 catwalk invite

Mary Katrantzou spring/summer 2012 catwalk invite Michael van der Ham spring/summer 2012 catwalkinvite

Antonio Marras spring/summer 2012 catwalk invite

3D

s u w h a WHOLESALE PRICES

Name: Penelope

Style#: SJ0011

Colour: yellow (tweed), green

Fabric Content: yellow - 66% viscose, 28 % silk, 6% wool (shell), 100% viscose (lining);green - 60% cotton, 40% polyamide (shell),100% cotton (lining)

Sizes Available: xs, s, m, l, xl

Unit Price: £115/ €155

unit 19, london fruit and wool exchange, brushfield street, london e1 6hb, uk www.suwha.com t/f: +44 (0) 02073753252 e: [email protected]

LINE SHEET - SAMPLE

Design Research Facebook Note 07.11.2011 Found this designer from Israel making rings with used bullets - that look really awesome. https://docs.google.com/a/designgroup.co.il/viewer?a=v&pid=sites&srcid=ZGVzaWduZ3JvdXAuY28uaWx8YWRpLXphZmZyYW58Z3g6N2EzYmNlYWI3NDFjYzZjNQ I have later looked him up on other blog and comments ppl are leaving are quite mixed up - due to the sensitivity of the issue. Have a look here: http://www.dezeen.com/2010/04/02/rings-by-adi-zaffran-weisler/ Also, I will have a look online today if it would be at all possible to use material as such - due to guns being illegal in UK.

Design Research Facebook Note 07.11.2011 Just found that AMO name for a jewellery brand already exists - it's Tom Binns lower-price range... http://www.shopstyle.com/browse/AMO-by-Tom-Binns ** AMO was one of the brand names suggested by other team members for our brand name.

BRAND NAME SUGGESTIONS FOR BRAND NAMES:

•  TELUM -i n. [a missile; a dart , javelin, spear; any weapon; a beam of light].

•  ANIMULA- a little soul; a little life

•  ORIGO - origin; source; beginning

•  OPACUS -a -um [shaded , shady; dark, shadowy, obscure].

•  LUX LUCIS - f. [light]; [esp. daylight , day; a day; the light of life or of day; the eye, eyesight; illustration, elucidation; hope, encouragement; ornament].

•  LUMEN -I nis n. [light; a light , lamp; the light of day, day; the light of life; the light of the eye, the eye; an opening, a light in a building]; fig., [clearness, insight; a shining light, glory, ornament].

•  ALUCINOR - ari dep. [to wander in mind , dream, talk idly].

•  MORPHEUS - eos m. [god of dreams].

•  INSOMNIUM - i n. [a bad dream]

•  ACONITUM -i n. [monk's hood , aconite; strong poison].

BRAND NAME FINAL FOUR OPTIONS FOR THE BRAND NAME:

•  Axilium - help/ assistance/ support/ aid

•  Lumen - light/ bright (lumerie in french)

•  Telum - a missile/ a dart/ javelin, spear, any weapon; a beam of light

•  Vigaro - a female warrior/ heroine

OUTCOME: LUMEN

•  http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/columns/kate-finnigan/TMG9064118/The-two-faces-of-London-fashion.html

•  http://www.businessoffashion.com/ •  http://www.coolhunting.com/ •  http://acid.eu.com/

Bibliography

•  Reis, A. and Trout, J. Differentiate or Die: Survival in Our Era of Killer Competition, John Wiley and Sons, 1992

DIGITAL PRINT - SAMPLE

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Lumen for AI - Research File