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DESKTOP FILAMENT EXTRUDING SYSTEM – March 1, 2014
By:
Hugh M. Lyman, Jr.
Lyman Filament Extruder V4.1 is an open source product licensed under
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/
Lyman Filament Extruder V4 Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4F3e6K5Hxk
CONSTRUCTION MANUAL
LYMAN FILAMENT EXTRUDER V4.1
No Liability is accepted for errors, omissions and the use of this manual. Users use it at their
own risk. Comments with errors and omissions will be accepted by email only.
Thanks
Page 1
The LYMAN FILAMENT EXTRUDER V4.1 is a complete
assembly for desktop filament extruding. It can extrude 1.75mm
or 3mm diameter filament for desktop 3D Printers. Once setup
it can be left unattended and in about 5 hours it will fill a (1) kg
spool of filament.
Watch the video on YouTube for the setup procedure.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=ofF3eK5Hxk
Figure 1 shows the last Version 4.1. All printed parts are from
filament extruded with Version 4. Figure 2 shows Version 4,
with all printed parts from filament extruded with Version 3.
3mm verse 1.75mm Filament:
If the diameter range of 1.75mm is (+/-) 0.10mm, that is 11.4%
variation.
If the diameter range of 3mm is (+/-) 0.10mm, that is 6.7%
variation.
Therefore, that is why I prefer the 3mm diameter filament.
Also, the 3mm filament extrudes faster than the 1.75mm fila-
ment, (not in inches per minute but in pounds per minute).
CONSTRUCTION COMMENTS
The following is an explanation of each part shown on sheets
A04 through A14. All green colored parts in the drawings are
3D printed. All white parts in photos are printed, Figures 1 &
2.
The theory of the design is that as the Extruder Assembly ex-
trudes filament, the Puller Assembly stretches it to the desired
diameter. Therefore the hole in the Extruder Nozzle is 1.5 (+/-)
the desired diameter. To complete the system is the Spool Fila-
ment winding. The level wind assembly is optional extruding
3mm filament..
I suggest 3D printing all the printed parts first and assembling
the sub assemblies before mounting any of them to the Base
Plate. Do this why you wait for part shipments to arrive.
What I am showing is how I constructed the extruder. I am
sure there are better ways and hopefully my notes will help.
STARTING ON SHEET A04
The extruder is made up of (9) sub assemblies.
A. The base plate, sheet A05. the length is not critical. Mine
is 46” long but 43” will work with less distance between
the Puller Rollers (D) and the Level Wind Assembly (J).
B. The Electronic Box (sheet A06) holds all the electronics.
C. The Extruder Assembly is not attached to the Base Plate. It
sits over the Hopper Position Block (G) for easy exchange.
D. The Puller Motor Assembly, sheet A08. Position it about
11” from the Extruder nozzle.
E. Filament Fan Assembly.
F. Spool Winder Assembly.
G. Hopper Position Block
H. Extruder Motor Fan Assembly.
J. Level Wind Assembly.
Figure 1—Full Assembly, Version 4.1
All printed parts
Figure 2, Full Assembly, Version 4
Wood Electric Box & Spool Holder
Page 2
Figure 5 Extruder Assembly
SHEET A05: BASE PANEL
No comment
SHEET A06: ELECTRONIC BOX
Parts: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6: All Panels
The Electronic Box shown is made of printed parts. It is about
11” wide, 9” tall and 5” deep. Bigger is OK, but small may be a
little tight for mounting all the electronics. The face, bottom and
sides are attached using SCIGRIP 2354 solvent cement.
All the electronics except the Sabertooth, Kangaroo and power
cord plug-in are mounted on the back side of the face panel.
Stand off’s are printed on the inside of the face panel and the left
side panel for mounting the terminal board, Sabertooth and SSR.
SHEET A07: EXTRUDER SUB-ASSEMBLY
Part 1, Brass Nozzle.
I used a plain solid 1/2” brass plug I got at the local Fastenal
Store.
The hole was drilled in a drill press, held perpendicular to the
face. The inside was countersunk in about 3/16”. On the exit
side I used the countersink in my hand and lightly turned it a
few revolutions to make sure there were no burrs at the exit of
the filament hole, which will cause imperfections in filament.
Part 2, Heat Band.
The heat band is a 1” ID 110V I purchased from Zoro Tools. It
is the 2” length. It fits over the 1/2” pipe coupler. As the pipe
coupler is a little over 1” OD the band needs to be pride open
slightly to fit. The 1” long heat band will also work.
Part 3, 1/2” Black Iron Coupler.
The coupler should be 2” long with an OD of 1.0625”diameter.
Check this as not all couplers are the same. This I purchased at
Fastenal.
Part 4, 4” Black Iron Nipple.
The nipple will have a weld joint on the inside. I used a dremel
with the flex extension that would fit inside the nipple and with
a grinding wheel attachment I smoothed the weld as much as it
would. Note that it is good to clean the inside of the nipple and
the coupler with solvent for cleaner filament at startup. Two
small holes are drilled at 1” from the flange for air escape.
Part 5, Hex Nut.
Use a nylock nut here. They are not over tightened, in fact
somewhat loose. I snug them up just so no pellets can exit.
They are then lightly tightened when there is no wobbling of
the nozzle.
Figure 6 Extruder Hopper
Note the pellets encompassing all around the
auger bit
Figure 3 - Electronics Box
Figure 4 - Electronics Box Back & Top
attached
Parts 7, 8 & 9: Screws & Inserts
No comment
Page 3
Part 7, 5/8” Auger Bit
The Auger Bit used here is an Irwin 5/8” x 17” long that I pur-
chased from McMaster Carr. It tapers from the auger to the shaft,
which is said to be 3/8”. Not true, it is over that enough that I had
to use a 7/16” washer and thrust bearing. The washer snug's up at
the taper of the shaft. Before cutting the auger to length assemble
all the other extruder components and then measure both the dis-
tance to the nozzle and the distance to the flex coupler Part 15, A07.
the end of the auger from the entry of the nozzle to be about 1/4”.
Part 8, Oak Insulating Block.
The block can be between 3/8” to 1/2”. This must be considered in
the length of the auger bit. Figure 8. I had to add a spacer as my
auger bit was about 1/8” to long. The bolt holes are oversized.
Part 9, Cap Screws.
No comment
Part 10, MDF Board Position Block.
Before attaching the Block, layout on the base plate all the sub-
assemblies. The Extruder Nozzle should be about 1/4” from the
wind guard of the Filament Fan Assembly. The Nozzle end (exit)
should be10” to 11” from the Puller Roller Assembly. The distance
from the Puller Roller Assembly to the Level Wind Assembly is not
critical. The reason for the block is to hold the Extruder in place so
that the Extruder can be lifted up and turned to empty pellets or
exchange extruders for different colors.
Part 11, #6 x 3/4” PHSMS
No comment
Part 12, Printed Hopper & Motor Mount.
This is tough. I have printed over a dozen of these. The problem I
have is warping. I print on a piece of tempered glass that I coated
with a sugar water solution. Still I get some warping. The warping
causes the three holes in the part to become out of alignment. My
parts stick so well to the glass plate that I have actually pulled off
slivers of glass trying to remove a part before the glass cooled. So
here is what I did: Separated the part into three pieces, the hopper
part, the motor part and the circular top part. This produced less
warping of each part. Then I lined up the holes in the hopper part
with the motor part and attached them together with SCIGRIP 2354
ABS solvent cement. Worked great. But, there probably is a better
design.
Part 13, Gear Motor with Encoder.
The motor I use is from SuperRobotics. It has a torque rating of
about 30 kg/cm. As it got hot, I added the Motor Fan Assembly
and it has worked fine for over 30 spools of filament. The motor
must have an encoder to function with the motor on the Puller
Roller
Figure 8 - Oak Insulating Block
Figure 9 - Printer Hopper Parts
Figure 10 - 3 Hopper Parts Assembled
Part 6, 3/8” thick Aluminum Flange.
The pipe nipple when threaded into the flange needs to be flush to
the inside edge of the flange and needs no sealant. The one
shown in Figure 7 is actually 1/2” and was difficult to get the nip-
ple end flush. I used no sealant on the coupler or the nozzle.
Shown is my flange cut from a round flange I got at McMaster
Carr and is what is shown in the BOM.
Figure 7 - Aluminum Flange
Page 4
PART 14A & B, Flexible Shaft Coupler
You can use any coupler you want, but this is economical as it
only weights 0.5 oz. Both parts are the same, except each has a
different size D shaped hole for the different size shafts. After
printing, the parts are dipped in SCIGRIP 2354 ABS solvent ce-
ment. These are printed with 100% infill. I think they are tougher
than the rubber in other couplers.
PART 15 & 16: Cap Screws & Washers
No comment
PART 17: Flanged 3/8” Brass Bushing
The ID of this bushing may need reaming as the auger shaft may
be a slight amount oversize.
PART 18: Thrust Bearing 7/16” ID
Again as the shaft is oversized I used the 7/16”ID bearing and it
works fine.
PART 19: Flat 7/16” Washer
As the auger shaft tapers up to 5/8” this washer holds the auger
bit in place. When you assemble the parts make sure that the
auger is pushed back against the bushing and allow about 1/4”
between the auger shaft and the motor shaft.
PART 20: 5/8” Brass Bushing
The end should be snug against the Oak Block.
PART 21: Type K Thermocouple
As the lead is long it gets wrapped up inside the electronic box.
The sensor is taped to the 1/2” iron coupler with kapton tape.
Position the heat band so the sensor is in the heat band break.. I
did not use the clamp that comes with the heat band, just make
sure it is tight. Twist the lugs 90 degrees to fit to the PID.
Figure 11: Flexible Coupler
Figure 12: Washer, Thrust Bearing, Bushing
Figure 13: Brass Bushing at Hopper Front
Figure 14: Thermocouple at hot end
Part 22: Printed Funnel
I like it because it holds enough pellets to fill a spool. The hop-
per is configured with a round entry so that a 3” shipping tube
can be used in place of the funnel.
Page 5
SHEET A08: PULLER ROLLER ASSEMBLY
PART 1: Puller Roller Motor
This motor I used is the same as the extruder motor. A smaller motor
can be used if it has an encoder. However, both motors must be tuned
with DeScribe software available from Dimension Engineering. The
tuned file I have is available for download and should work with any
two of these like motors. The file is uploaded to the Kangaroo.
PART 2, 3, 4, 8 & 14: Screws, Nuts & Bolts
No comment
PART 5: Printed Motor & Roller Base
The stl file for this part has supports drawn with it so support does not
need adding when sliced. It will need some cleaning up. There are two
through holes in it that are in alignment with the motor attachment
holes. This is so a long Allen wrench can fit through them for easy
mounting of the motor. I used only two attachment bolts for this mo-
tor.. The holes for the bushings and motor may need dressing.
PARTS 6 & 7: Idler & Drive Shafts
These are 3/8” diameter to match the rollers ID dimension. See sheet
P07 for dimensions.
PART 9: Flanged Brass 3/8” ID Bushings
When assembling these for the drive shaft make sure they are in align-
ment so the shaft turns freely. They are the same as the flanged bush-
ing in the hopper base.
PART 10: idler Roller Mount Bracket
Here I did not use a bushing. I dressed the holes for a smooth fit of the
3/8”shaft and it seems to work well. In V3 I used ball bearings for
both the drive and idler shafts. You may wish to do he so and if so the
holes with have to be enlarged or you can design and print you own.
PART 11: Urethane 35A Rollers
Note they are opposite each other when assembled.
PART 12: Flexible Shaft Coupler
These are the same as used on the extruder motor. If you use a smaller
puller motor you will need to design your own and size the D hole to
the motor shaft.
PART 13: Compression Spring
No comment
Figure 15: Puller & Extruder Motor
Figure 16: Puller Roller Assembly
Page 6
SHEET A09: SPOOL WIND UP ASSEMBLY
Part: Mini Gear Motor
This is what I had so I used it. It is a 12V motor and at 24V it ran
way to fast. So, I added a 220 ohm resistor to the (+) lead. I found
this alternate 24V motor on eBay and ordered one replace it. If the
holes in the Motor Arm do not fit I will just redesign the Arm.
Extruding 3mm filament required add weight to the motor so it would
apply sufficient friction to turn the spool. I used some magnetic tape I
had and wrapped it around the motor. 1.75mm filament did not re-
quire any added weight. Figure 17: Mini Gear Motor 12V 70 RPM
Figure 18 Alt Gear Motor 24V 30 RPM
Figure 20: Spool Wind Up Assembly
Parts 2, 3, 4, 5,7 & 12: Nuts, Washers, Bolts & Screws
No comment
Part 6: Motor Arm
The motor arm is designed for the motor I used. A different motor
may need a redesign of the arm.
Part 8: Latex Tubing
The latex tube is the friction grip that turns the spool. It fits snug over
part 18, the shaft cog. This will wear out in time and has to be re-
placed. After a year I still have some left of the 12” I purchase. This
should be cleaned off after each spool extruded.
Parts 9, 10 & 11 Spool Holder Sides & Bottom
These are all printed parts and attached together using SCIGRIP
ABS 2354 solvent cement. There are two slots in the bottom plate
as they allow for some side to side adjustment.
Parts 12: Screws
No comment
Part 13: Shaft
Again, I used what I had. Other diameters and other material can be
used. A wood dowel may work also.
Figure 19: Latex Tube
Page 7
Part 14: Spool Collars
The collars are printed with a lip as they are a pulley for driving the
level wind assembly. The holes are undersized and must be drilled
out to the shaft diameter, but need to fit tight. I used an 8mm shaft
and drill the holes out with an 8mm drill bit. For the assembly all
the parts are glued together with ABS solvent cement. I now have
17 spools made up and 9 are filled with filament.
Part: 15 & 16, Spool Discs
3D printed discs are 8” diameter. Part 15 disc core is 3” diameter.
The lip on Part 16 disc fits inside the core of Part 15 disc for easy
alignment for gluing. Using solvent cement the discs are attached.
One collar is pressed onto the shaft. The shaft is then fit in the
spool and the other collarr is pressed on. The collars are also at-
tached to the disc with solvent cement.
Part 17: Motor Shaft Cog
This is printed with a ‘D’ shaped hole to fit the motor shaft. It is
pressed on. The latex tube fits to the cog so it can be replaced.
Each of my printers have printed brackets to hold a spool. Pull one
off the rack and set it on the printer, it is so easy.
Figure 21: Filament storage rack
Holds 12 spools.
Figure 22, Spool on TAZ printer
Figure 23, Spool on ORD printer
This is my spool system which is unique in its self.
Use your own imagination and design one that fits your
system and equipment. The rubber band around the
shaft keeps the spool from free wheeling.
Page 8
SHEET A10, LEVEL WIND ASSEMBLY
Parts 1, 8 & 9: Worm Gear Components
These are the parts from a Diawa level wind fishing reel. I got them
from Dave’s Tackle Shop. The part numbers are shown in the BOM.
http://op1.triadinet.com/fishermansworld/nlcatalog.asp?
loc=nlclass.asp&args=dept|P
Part 2: Filament Guide
3D printed. The holes here have to be dressed. It must slide freely
over the worm gear sleeve. The hole for the pawl and 5mm cap
screw is taped part way.
Part 3: Pulley
3D printed. The hole is undersized for dressing to fit the worm gear
shaft.
Part 4: Rubber Band Drive Belt
It is so simple that even I can do it. “Simplified Engineering”
Part 5: Level Wind Bracket
3D printed. The holes will need dressing for a snug fit of the level
wind sleeve.
Parts 6 & 8: Screws
No Comment
Part 7: Line Guide Pawl
No Comment
Part 9: Worm Gear Bearing
No Comment
SHEET A11, COOLING FANS
Part 1—Fans
These are 24V 60mm fans. The filament fan replaces the water cool-
ing system used in Version 3 Extruder. It works just as well and is
less costly and troublesome. As the Extruder motor got too warm to
touch I added a cooling fan toit. I tried a larger gear motor but it had
less rpm and was twice as long and twice a costly.
Parts 2 & 3—Fan Brackets
3D printed. Note the filament fan bracket has a windshield to deflect
the wind from the fan away from the nozzle.
Parts 4,5 & 6
No comments
_______________________________________________________
Figure 24, Level Wind Assembly V4
Figure 25, Level Wind Bracket
Figure 26, Extruder Fan Assembly
Page 9
SHEET A12: ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS
See sheet A14 for wiring diagram
Parts 1 & 2: Kangaroo & Sabertooth Motion Controller
Get the manuals from the following links:
http://www.dimensionengineering.com/datasheets/Sabertooth2x12.pdf
http://www.dimensionengineering.com/datasheets/KangarooManual.pdf
The motors must be tuned and uploaded to the Kangaroo. It has two internal pots one for each motor. The Ex-
truder motor also has an external pot connected to the top terminals on the Kangaroo. I have the M2 (puller motor)
pot removed and an external pot wired in its place for easy M2 motor control. The M1 (extruder motor) internal
pot I have set to full speed. The external M1 pot will override the internal pot used for overall speed control.
Part 3: 24V Rechargeable Battery Pack
This is wired in parallel to the 24V power to the Sabertooth. Why, I don’t know so don’t ask. I made this one with
19 AAA NIMH rechargeable batteries, only because I had them.
Part 5: External M2 Potentiometer
This is a precession 10 turn 10K pot. It controls the speed of the puller motor to control the diameter of the fila-
ment. 1/8 to 1/4 turns makes a difference.
Figure 27, Outside Electronic Box
Sabertooth
Kangaroo
Page 10
Part 6: Rocker Illuminated 24V Switches
I started with 12V illuminated SPST switches as that is what I had and they worked ok, but I had one burn out as
you can see in the video. It now has 24V switches in the new 3D printed box. They control the motors, fans and
spool winder. The switch next to the motor switch controls the battery. I should try a DPST switch in place of two
SPST switches for the motor and battery. Just remember I am a novice in electronics.
Part 7: Master Potentiometer
This is the same as part 3.
Part 8: Rocker Illuminated 110V Switches
One is for turning on the power supply and the other turns on the heat to heat band. Note: If pellets have been
melted in the extruder, do not turn on the motors until the heat is up and stabilized.
Part 9: Circuit Breaker
If you can remember to unplug the 110V cord before tinkering in the box you can omit this. As my old memory is
short and I have forgotten to do it, this is my safe guard, and I have saved many parts several times with it.
Part 10: PID Heat Controller
I am still using the same PID that was in the first version extruder. Mypin TA4. I also have two that don’t work.
Part 11: 24V Power Supply
No comment
Figure 28, Inside Electronics Box
Page 11
Parts 12, 13 & 14: Terminal Board
This is a DIY terminal board. It is a printed base panel with strips
of copper PCB glued to it with CA glue. After gluing in the copper
strips I hand drilled the holes through them.
Bare male spade connectors were then soldered in place. Each row
was identified, the top row is 24V (+), the second row 24V(-), the
third row 110V (N) and the bottom row 110V (L). The first spade
in each row was used for the power in. The 24V from the Power
Supply (+) and (-) terminals and the 110V from the (L) and (N)
terminals.
Again, this is the way I did it, keeping in mind that I use what I
have. There always is a better way. Plug & Play
Figure 30, Back side of the Terminal Board Figure 31, Front face of Terminal Board
Figure 29, Terminal Board Parts
Part 15: Cap Screws
No comment
Part 16: Solid State Relay (SSR)
My only comment is to get a good one. It is a real pain if it fails
half way through extruding process.
Figure 23 is a picture of the one I used, obtained on eBay.
Figure 32, Solid State Relay
Part 17: Motor Encoder Pull-up Board
The motors M1 and M2 have encoder pigtails the connect to the
pull-ups. Be careful with these pigtails as they are prone to break
off at the encoder circuit board. I have had to re-solder them several
times only because I am clumsy. Also an extension will be needed
to reach the Kangaroo.
Figure 33, Encoder Pull-up Board
Page 12
Part 18: 110V Power In Socket.
This is optional as you can wire an extension cord direct to the
Power Supply and the Circuit Breaker. If you do so, use a strain
relief on the cord.. I used an old computer cord I had. Pay atten-
tion to the polarity.
Part 4, Knobs for the Pots
These I printed, however you can use any kind. I wanted a bigger
knob for clumsy old hands, thus big with big pointer as the M2
pot is sensitive to 1/8 of a turn.
Figure 34, 110V Socket
Figure 35, Pot Knob
SHEET A13, - SECTION VIEW OF EXTRUDER ASSEMBLY
This solid model drawing was drawn to show all the parts as they are
combined. One dimension is shown that may or may not be critical, the
distance of the end of the auger to the beginning of the nozzle. It is
shown as 1/4” (6.3mm). In the original version (1 & 2) of my extruder
the end of the auger was at the beginning of the 1/2” NPT coupler which
would have been about 1.5” from the nozzle. I have now made 6 ex-
truder assemblies for Versions 3, 4 & 4.1 with different distances. I
haven’t detected much difference in the extruded filament.
This is still a work in progress.
SHEET A14, - WIRING DIAGRAM
One missed or bad connection and nothing works. One change I would
do is change the color of the 110V Load wire from black to some other
color not used, so it is not confused with the black 24V wires.
A wiring harness extension from the motor encoders to the pull-up
boards has to be made. It is a good idea to use the same color wires as
the encoder leads, through to the Kangaroo connectors pins. There are
five connector pins on the Kangaroo and only 4 are used. It is the pin
next to the GND pin, marked as the I (index) pin.
Make sure you set the dip switches on both the Saberbtooth and Kanga-
roo as shown in the diagram. Dip switch 1 on the Kangaroo needs to be
turned off when tuning with DeScribe.
Have Fun.
Page 13
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Part #Dw
g #DESCRIPTIO
NQTY
UNIT
Unit Est Price
Total Est Price
SUPPLIER PART #
SUPPLIER
NOTES: These suppliers are only suggestions and better pricing
may be found elsew
here
1A05
MDF BO
ARD 1/2" ‐ 12" x 46"4
SF$1.50
6.00Hom
e DepotUse w
hat ever you have, plywood etc.
1A06
ABS Filament ‐ Box top
2.3OZ
$1.433.29
Extruded my ow
nSelf
QTY estim
ated
2A06
ABS Filament ‐ Box Right Side Panel
8.5OZ
$1.4312.16
Extruded my ow
nSelf
QTY estim
ated
3A06
ABS Filament ‐ Box Front Panel
18OZ
$1.4325.74
Extruded my ow
nSelf
QTY estim
ated
4A06
ABS Filament ‐ Box Bottom
Panel2.3
OZ
$1.433.29
Extruded my ow
nSelf
QTY estim
ated
5A06
ABS Filament ‐ Box Left Side Panel
8.5OZ
$1.4312.16
Extruded my ow
nSelf
QTY estim
ated
6A06
ABS Filament ‐ Box Back Panel
3.5OZ
$1.435.01
Extruded my ow
nSelf
QTY estim
ated
7A06
Screw PH
SM #6 x 1/2"
2EA
$0.040.08
True Value Hardw
are
8A06
Cap Screw M
3 x 6mm
18EA
$0.162.88
11103295Fastenal
9A06
Heat‐Set Inserts for Plastics
18EA
$0.132.34
94180A331McM
aster Carr
1A07
Brass Pl ug 1/2" NPT
1EA
$3.693.69
50785K337McM
aster Carr
2A07
Band Heater 1" ID x 2" long1
EA$21.46
21.46G0472516
Zoro ToolsNeeds a little enlarging by prying open at little
3A07
Black Pipe Coupling 1/2"NPT
1EA
$2.562.56
46685K264McM
aster CarrOD Diam
eter should be 1.06" for 1"heat band
4A07
Black Iron Nipple 1/2" N
PT x 4"1
EA$1.28
1.2844615K464
McM
aster Carr
5A07
Nut H
ex M4 N
yLok4
EA$0.11
0.4440147
Fastenal
6A07
Aluminum
Flange 1/2" Pipe Flange1
EA$13.68
13.6844705K228
McM
aster CarrCut to 1‐3/4" Sq . U
se 3/8" thick Alum if available as in Dw
g.
7A07
Auger Bit 5/8"X 181
EA$26.38
26.382878A15
McM
aster Carr
8A07
Oak Block 1/2" x 1‐3/4" sq.
1EA
$1.001.00
9A07
Cap Screw M
4 x 45mm
4EA
$0.351.40
11103318Fastenal
10A07
MDF BO
ARD 1/2" ‐ 6" x 3" 0.2
SF$1.50
0.30
Hom
e DepotUse w
hat ever you have, plywood etc.
11A07
Screw PH
SM #6 x 3/4
2EA
$0.040.08
True Value Hardw
are
12A07
ABS Filament ‐ H
opper Mtr M
ount8
OZ
$1.4311.44
Extruded my ow
nSelf
(3) parts A, B, & C. ‐ qty estim
ated
13A07
Gear M
otor w/Encoder
1EA
$65.3965.39
TD‐044‐013SuperDroll Robotics
14A07
ABS Filament ‐ Coupler Flexible
0.5OZ
$1.430.72
Extruded my ow
nSelf
QTY estim
ated
14A07
Cap Screw M
3 x 20mm
2EA
$0.280.56
1139507Fastenal
14A07
Hex N
ut M3
2EA
$0.050.10
11101213Fastenal
15A07
Cap Screw M
4 x 14mm
2EA
$0.200.40
1139518Fastenal
16A07
Washer Flat M
48
EA$0.03
0.2440353
Fastenal
17A07
Bushing Brass Flanged 3/8" ID1
EA$0.70
0.706338K414
McM
aster Carr
18A07
Bearing Thrust 7/16" 1
EA$2.60
2.606655K16
19A07
Washer Flat 7/16"
1EA
$0.100.10
True Value Hardw
are
BOM ‐ LYM
AN FILAM
ENT EXTRU
DER V4.1 (sorted by D
wg #)
Page 38
Part #Dw
g #DESCRIPTIO
NQTY
UNIT
Unit Est Price
Total Est Price
SUPPLIER PART #
SUPPLIER
NOTES: These suppliers are only suggestions and better pricing
may be found elsew
here
BOM ‐ LYM
AN FILAM
ENT EXTRU
DER V4.1 (sorted by D
wg #)
20A07
Bushing Brass 5/8" ID1
EA$1.24
1.246391K241
McM
aster Carr
21A07
Thermocouple Type K
1EA
$1.241.24
tinxi‐clotheseBay
22A07
ABS Filament ‐ Funnel
6OZ
$1.438.58
QTY estim
ated
1A08
Gear M
otor w/Encoder
2EA
$65.39130.78
TD‐044‐013SuperDroll Robotics
2A08
Hex N
ut M3
2EA
$0.050.10
11101213Fastenal
3A08
Washer Flat M
32
EA$0.02
0.0440352
Fastenal
4A08
Cap Screw M
4 x 14mm
2EA
$0.200.40
1139518Fastenal
5A08
ABS Filament ‐ Drive Roller M
t Base14
OZ
$1.4320.02
Extruded my ow
nSelf
QTY estim
ated
6A08
Shaft Steel 3/8"x 3.75"1
EA$1.00
1.008920K135
McM
aster Carr
7A08
Shaft Steel 3/8"x 4.5"1
EA$1.00
1.008920K135
McM
aster Carr
8A08
Screw PH
SM #6 x 1/2"
4EA
$0.040.16
True Value H ardware
9A08
Bushing Brass Flanged 3/8" ID2
EA$0.70
1.406338K414
McM
aster Carr
10A08
ABS Filament ‐ Idler Roller M
t Bracket3.2
OZ
$1.434.58
Extruded my ow
nSelf
QTY estim
ated
11A08
Urethane Drive Rollers
2EA
$27.1654.32
2475K61McM
aster Carr
12A08
ABS Filament ‐ Coupler Flexible
0.5OZ
$1.430.72
Extruded my ow
nSelf
QTY estim
ated
13A08
Spring 1/2"x 1"1
EA$1.50
1.50
True Value Hardw
areCom
pression type
14A08
Cap Screw M
3 x 20mm
2EA
$0.280.56
1139507Fastenal
1A09
Mini G
ear Motor
1EA
$10.0010.00
hjb0805eBay
This 12V so need a 220 ohm resistor in line
0A09
Resistor 220 ohms
1EA
$0.500.50
Parts E xpressnot show
n on drawing
2A09
Screw Cap M
3 x 10mm
2EA
$0.120.23
11103297Fastenal
3A09
Nut H
ex M4 N
yLok4
EA$0.11
0.4440147
Fastenal
4A09
Washer Flat M
42
EA$0.03
0.0640353
Fastenal
5A09
Cap Screw M
4 x 25mm
1EA
$0.180.18
11103314Fastenal
6A09
ABS Filament ‐ M
otor Arm0.6
OZ
$1.430.86
Extruded my ow
nSelf
QTY estim
ated
7A09
Washer Flat M
32
EA$0.02
0.0440352
Fastenal
8A09
Latex Tube 1/2" ID1
LOT
$1.001.00
search the internet
9A09
ABS Filament ‐ Spool H
older Lg Side0.6
OZ
$1.430.86
Extruded my ow
nSelf
QTY estim
ated
10A09
ABS Filament ‐ Spool H
older Sm Side
0.6OZ
$1.430.86
Extruded my ow
nSelf
QTY estim
ated
11A09
ABS Filament ‐ Spool H
older Bottom0.6
OZ
$1.430.86
Extruded my ow
nSelf
QTY estim
ated
12A09
Screw PH
SM #6 x 1/2"
2EA
$0.040.08
True Value Hardw
are
Page 39
Part #Dw
g #DESCRIPTIO
NQTY
UNIT
Unit Est Price
Total Est Price
SUPPLIER PART #
SUPPLIER
NOTES: These suppliers are only suggestions and better pricing
may be found elsew
here
BOM ‐ LYM
AN FILAM
ENT EXTRU
DER V4.1 (sorted by D
wg #)
13A09
Shaft 6"long1
EA$0.00
0.00Use w
hat you got 8mm, 10m
m, 3/8"
14A09
ABS Filament ‐ Spool Collar 2 ea
0.23OZ
$1.430.33
Extruded my ow
nSelf
QTY estim
ated
15A09
ABS Filament ‐ Spool Disc Lg
4OZ
$1.435.72
Extruded my ow
nSelf
QTY estim
ated
16A09
ABS Filament ‐ Spool Disc Sm
3
OZ
$1.434.29
Extruded my ow
nSelf
QTY estim
ated
17A09
ABS Filament ‐ M
otor Shaft Cog 0.8
OZ
$1.431.14
Extruded my ow
nSelf
QTY estim
ated
1A10
Worm
Shaft Assembly
1EA
$10.0010.00
F09‐2601Dave's Tackle Parts
$ Estimated
2A10
ABS F ilament ‐ Filam
ent Guide
0.12OZ
$1.430.17
Extruded my ow
nSelf
QTY estim
ated
3A10
ABS Filament ‐ Spool Pulley
0.15OZ
$1.430.21
Extruded my ow
nSelf
QTY estim
ated
4A10
Rubber Band Belt1
EA$0.02
0.02
5A10
ABS Filament ‐ Level W
ind Bracket2.6
OZ
$1.433.72
Extruded my ow
nSelf
QTY estim
ated
6A09
Screw PH
SM #6 x 1/2"
4EA
$0.040.16
True Value Hardw
are
7A10
Line Guide Paw
l1
EA$2.00
2.00F09‐2601
Dave's Tackle Parts$ Estim
ated
8A10
Cap Screw M
5 x 15mm
1EA
$0.300.30
163624Fastenal
9A10
Worm
Bearing2
EA$2.00
4.00E14‐4801
Dave's Tackle Parts$ Estim
ated
1A11
Fans 60mm 24V
2EA
$3.957.90
17194 FNMa jpa.com
3A11
ABS Filament ‐ Extruder Fan Bracket
0.8OZ
$1.431.14
Extruded my ow
nSelf
QTY estim
ated
3A11
ABS Filament ‐ Filam
ent Fan Bracket0.89
OZ
$1.431.27
Extruded my ow
nSelf
QTY estim
ated
4A11
Screw PH
SM #6 x 1/2"
4EA
$0.040.16
True Value Hardw
are
3A11
Nut H
ex M4 N
yLok4
EA$0.11
0.4440147
Fastenal
5A11
Cap Screw M
4 x 25mm
4EA
$0.180.72
11103314Fastenal
1A12
Sabertooth 2X121
EA$80.00
80.00Sabertooth 2X12
Dimension Engineering
Check with Supplier for additional parts needed
2A12
Kangaroo 1
EA$49.00
49.00Kangaroo x2
Dimension Engineering
Order this w
ith the external M2 pot
3A1 2
Battery Pack 24V1
EA$46.89
46.89TE‐088‐220
SuperDroll RoboticsI m
ade My ow
n
4A12
ABS Filament ‐ Pot Knob 2 ea
0.32OZ
$1.430.46
Extruded my ow
nSelf
QTY estim
ated
5A12
Potentiometers 10K
1EA
$0.000.00
SuperDroll Robotics
This one comes w
ith Kangaroo
6A12
Switch SPST 24V illum
inated Blue4
EA$1.00
4.00hongkong superseller
eBayI bought 10 for $9.88
7A12
Potentiometers 10K
1EA
$4.504.50
hongkong supersellereBay
I bought 2 for $8.76
8A12
Switch SPST 110V Illum
inated Red2
EA$1.25
2.5030184 SW
MPJA.com
9A12
Circuit Breaker 6 amp
1EA
$1.751.75
31314 FUMPJA.com
Page 40
Part #Dw
g #DESCRIPTIO
NQTY
UNIT
Unit Est Price
Total Est Price
SUPPLIER PART #
SUPPLIER
NOTES: These suppliers are only suggestions and better pricing
may be found elsew
here
BOM ‐ LYM
AN FILAM
ENT EXTRU
DER V4.1 (sorted by D
wg #)
10A12
PID1
EA$27.00
27.00mam
bateeBay
11A12
Power Supply 24V
1EA
$18.9518.95
yallstoreeBay
12A11
ABS Filament ‐ Term
inal Bd 3
OZ
$1.434.29
Extruded my ow
nSelf
QTY estim
ated
13A12
Male Spade Connector bare
16EA
$0.101.60
Price estimated
14A12
PCB Copper Strips (4x6)1
EA$5.00
5.00PBC‐46
AllElectronics.com
15A12
Cap Screw M
3 x 6mm
10EA
$0.161.60
11103295Fastenal
16A12
Solid State Relay1
EA$6.00
6.00eBay
17A12
Pull‐Up Boards
2EA
$8.8017.60
TE‐179‐000SuperDroll Robotics
18A12
Plug‐in Socket 110V1
EA0.00
0A12
Hookup Kit, not show
n2
EA$4.50
9.00TE‐024‐000
SuperDroll Robotics
0A12
22 ga hook up wires 9 colors
9EA
$2.6423.76
AllElectronics.com
Contingencies, TTT, Fi ndings
1LO
T$25.00
25.00estim
atedItem
s not listed or missed, connectors, zip ties, and etc.
SUB TO
TAL COST
843.64
ESTIMATED FRT IN
@10%
84.36
TOTAL CO
ST928.01
Page 41
