THE QUEEN OF BIAS CUT

HISTORY• Madeleine Vionnet (June 22, 1876 – March 2, 1975)

was a French fashion designer.• She was known as the "Queen of the bias cut" and

"the architect among dressmakers", Vionnet is best-known today for her elegant Grecian-style dresses and for introducing the bias cut to the fashion world.

• Vionnet began her apprenticeship in Aubervillier as a seamstress at age 11.

• Madeleine Vionnet was 17 when she left her apprenticeship to take a position as a seamstress at the House of Vincent.

• Shortly after she left this position and got married at the age of 18.

• Shortly got divorced and moved to London.

• She was introduced to Kate Reilly who offered Vionnet employment in her Salon.

• In 1912 she founded her own fashion house, "Vionnet".

• In 1914, when World War I started, Madeleine Vionnet closed the house and set off to visit Rome.

• In 1919, Vionnet returned to Paris and reopened at 222, Rue de Rivoli.

• During the same period, Thayaht, a futurist artist, created Vionnet's logo and started designing textiles, clothing and jewelry for the house.

• In the 1920s Vionnet created a stir by introducing the bias cut.

• Her clothes were famous for accentuating the natural female form.

• With the financial backing of Theophile Vionnet opened at #50 Ave, Montaigne the so called “temple of fashion” on April 15, 1923 and launched her label under the name Vionnet and Cie.

• New salon included a fur salon, a lingerie salon and a boutique at either end.

The House of Vionnet at 50,Avenue Montaigne

• Vionnet & Cie entered into a distribution arrangement with Charles and Ray Gutman.

• In November, the first collection of Vionnet clothing shown at Charles and Ray was an enormous success.

•  In February 1924, the Vionnet New York Salon opened at Hickson and an exclusive collection of gowns was presented.

• In 1925, Vionnet & Cie was the first French couture house to open a subsidiary in New York.

• In 1926, because of high demand and because her dresses were to hard to copy she began producing her first lines of ready to wear.

• n 1927, Vionnet opened a school within her couture house.

• In August 1939, Madeleine Vionnet (1876-1975) presented her last collection in Paris before closing her house of couture.

• In 1952, years after the closing of her house, Madeleine Vionnet donated most of her designs to the archives of the UFAC including 120 dresses from 1921 to 1939.

• In 1988, the Vionnet label was acquired by the Lummen family who reopened the house primarily focusing on accessories and the launch of new perfumes.

• Introduced new ready-to-wear collections in February 2003.

• Eventually, in July 2006, Arnaud de Lummen, CEO of the house, announced a return on the fashion scene.

• Sophia Kokosalaki, was appointed Creative Director of the house and a debut clothing collection was launched for Spring/Summer 2007 - the first Vionnet clothing collection in 67 years.

Sophia Kokosalaki

• Marc Audibet, appointed as artistic advisor, presented its sole and unique collection for the house in October 2007.

• From 2006 to 2008, Vionnet produced made-in-France "demi-couture" collections closed to haute-couture in the prices featured and the techniques and textiles used.

• On February 24, 2009, Matteo Marzotto announced the acquisition of the label and the creation of a new and independent structure in Milan where Vionnet is now operated.

• Vionnet is now designed by Rodolfo Paglialunga who, prior to Vionnet, spent 13 years as a designer of womenswear at Prada, and the previous four years at Romeo Gigli.

Rodolfo Paglialunga

Her famous work• Madeleine vionnet is known as “the queen of the bias cut”.• By cutting fabric against the grain, she enabled it to cling, drape and give in a way that was flattering to the body.• Influenced by the modern dances of Isadora Duncan, Vionnet created designs that showed off a woman's natural shape.

Isadora Duncan

• She used this "bias cut" to promote the potential for expression and motion, integrating comfort and movement as well as form into her designs.

• Vionnet used materials such as crêpe de chine, gabardine, and satin to make

her clothes; fabrics that were unusual in women's fashion of the 1920s and 30s.

• Characteristic Vionnet styles that clung to and moved with the wearer included the handkerchief dress, cowl neck, and halter top.

• Cream tulle ball gown.• This dress was designed

by madeleine vionnet in 1938 and presented in her last farewell collection.

• This dress was purchased by lady foley.

• Black lace ball gown.

• This was purchased by a loyal European client of vionnet.

• Right now in the victoria and albert museum,UK.

•  Vionnet dominated haute couture in the 1930s with sensually draped garments that were inspired by Greek, Roman, and medieval styles but brought suavely and sexily up-to-date.

Afternoon tea dressWhite organza and net ball gown

Black silk satin and black silk net embroidered with black

sequins

• This silk jersey evening dress, designed by Madeleine Vionnet in Paris, France in 1930.

• including her use of the bias cut technique and the unadorned elegance of her drapery inspired by classical statuary. 

• In this dress, the straps, jeweled with aquamarine and clear faceted glass stones, set into metal mounts.

Vionnet as a brand• Headquarters in Milan,

Italy since 2009.• Key people are Matteo

Marzotto (Owner), Gianni Castiglioni (Strategic Partner), Rodolfo Paglialunga (Chief Designer).

• Deals with luxury goods.

logo

Matteo Marzotto

Products of vionnet•Madeleine Vionnet Perfume by Madeleine Vionnet,is a timeless classic fragrance for women by madeleine vionnet.•Madeleine vionnet is a refined blend of citrus with a rich blend of florals.

Vionnet shoes

Vionnet accessories

Vionnet spring 2007-08 collection by sophia

Vionnet spring 2010 collection• The color blends used in Vionnet spring 2010

collection are absolutely wonderful and deepen the collections lovely style. 

Business profile• The Business of Fashion sat down with Mr. De

Lummen at Vionnet's recent presentation for S/S 2008 at Place Vendome during Paris Fashion Week to learn about his strategy for building the Vionnet brand.

• Madeleine Vionnet shuttered her business in 1939, and it stayed shut for six decades.

• Yet earlier this year, Matteo Marzotto bought the rights to the Vionnet brand.

• The exhibit of 130 dresses, with interactive explanations of Vionnet's techniques, runs through Jan. 31

• The spring 2010 collection shown in Paris last month walks a fine line between homage and modern life.

• Vionnet is now even seen on red carpet appearences.

Carey mulligan Hillary swank Carey mulligan

Madeleine Vionnet

Vionnet Paris 2009.flv