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Major Cellulose Fibers
BASICS OF TEXTILE MANUFACTURING
Presentation On
By:
T. SRIVANI,Asst. Prof., DFTDt: 28.01.10
INTRODUCTION OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY
• Textile Industry in India is the second largest employment generator.
• Indian textile industry is the second largest in the world, second only to China.
• It accounts for more than 30% of the total exports.
• Indian textile industry is constituted of the segments like Readymade
Garments, Cotton Textiles including Handlooms, Man-made Textiles, Silk
Textiles, Woolen Textiles, Handicrafts, Coir, and Jute.
CELLULOSIC FIBRES
MAJOR CELLULOSIC MINOR CELLULOSIC
• COTTON• LINEN• JUTE
HEMPSISALKAPOKRAMIECOIRPINA
COTTON THE KING OF FIBRES
• Cotton is a soft, staple fibre that grows around the seeds of the cotton
plant (Gossypium sp.).
• Cotton comes from the Arabic word qutun or kutun
• Cotton is cool, soft and comfortable to wear
• It is the principal clothing fiber of the world.
• Its production is one of the major factors
in world prosperity and economic stability.
IMPORTANCE OF COTTON IN TEXTILE INDUSTRY
• Cotton, one of the principal crops of the country, plays a key role in
the Indian economy.
• Cotton is also the main raw material for the huge domestic textile
industry.
• 4 million farmers are cultivating cotton .
• Area - 85 lakh hectares.
• Production - 150 lakh bales.
MAJOR PRODUCERS AND SOURCES OF COTTON
• Cotton grows in the seed pod of a genus of plant named gossypium.
• Grows best in light, loamy soil.
• Major countries producing cotton are United States of America. China,
India, Pakistan, Egypt, Brazil.
• Some other suppliers : Peru, Cyprus, Central Asia, Japan, and Italy.
MAJOR COTTON MAJOR COTTON PRODUCING COUNTRIESPRODUCING COUNTRIES
1.
2.
3.
PEOPLE’S REPUBLIC OF CHINA
(35.8 million pound bales)
INDIA
(25.3 million pound bales)
UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
(19.2 million pound bales)
COTTON
Cotton• History backs to 3,500 BC- India
3,000 BC –Peru• Composed of 85-90% cellulose• A seed hair grows on seed, a single cell• 1 seed may have app. 2000 fibers
• 1 boll may have app. 100,000 fibers.
• Fibers accumulate moisture & salt for germination and also to protect.
• As the plant matures, the boll opens, fibers dry, the cell wall collapses, flattens and twists. This becomes a characteristic feature of cotton, called convolutions. They may be around 100-300 per inch,and they are responsible for cotton’s spinnability.
COTTON LONGITUDINAL-SECTION
•cotton has a Bean-shaped cross section
• Traditionally spun with Z-twist, as it is the direction it twists when dried. Z twist stays intact on cotton.
• Gossipium is the Genus. – Gossipium hirsutam. – Gossipium peruvianum.– Gossipium arboreum.– Gossipium herbaceum.– Gossipium barbedense.– Gossipium purpurascede.
TYPES OF COTTON The following species are grown commercially:• Gossypium arboreum L. – Tree cotton, native to India and
Pakistan.
• Gossypium barbadense L. – known as American Pima, Creole, Egyptian, or Sea island cotton, native to tropical South America.
• Gossypium herbaceum L. – Levant cotton, native to southern Africa and Arabian Peninsula.
• Gossypium hirsutum L. – Upland cotton, native to Central America, Mexico, the Caribbean and southern Florida - most commonly grown species in the world.
• Gossypium peruvianium
• Gossypium purpurascade
STRUCTURE OF COTTON
• Under a microscope, a cotton fiber appears as a very fine, regular fiber.
• length: 10 mm to 65 mm
• Diameter: 11 micron meters to 22 micron meters.
• Length to breadth ratio: 6000:1 (longest) to 350:1 (shortest)
• Look like a twisted ribbon or a
collapsed and twisted tube.
• Twists are called convolutions.
Properties of cotton fibersProperty Evaluation
ShapeFairly uniform in width, 12-20 microns; length varies from ½ to 2½ inches; typical length is ⅞ to 1¼ inches.
Luster low
Tenacity (strength)DryWet
3.0-5.0 g/d3.3-6.0 g/d
Resiliency low
Density 1.54/1.56 g/ccm
Moisture absorptionraw:conditionedsaturationmercerized: conditionedsaturation
8.5%15-25%8.5-10.3%15-27%+
Dimensional stability good
Resistance toacidsalkaliorganic solventssunlightmicroorganismsinsects
damage, weaken fibersresistant; no harmful effectshigh resistance to mostProlonged exposure weakens fibers.Mildew and rot-producing bacteria damage fibers.Silverfish damage fibers.
Thermal reactionsto heatto flame
Decomposes after prolonged exposure to temperatures of 150˚C or over.Burns readily.
Test
Fiber
Soda ash
40% sol.
Caustic soda 25% sol.
Sodium hypo chloride
Hydro chloric acid
40%
Nitric acid
15%
Nitric acid
70%
Sulphuric acid
15%
Sulphuric acid
70%
Burning in Flame
Microscopic
View
Remarks
Cotton
swells Swells&
Shines
Whitened
Turns yellowish
Opens up
looses strength
Dissolves slowly
Dissolves on heat
ing
Dissolves quickly
Burns continuously leaving grey ash of burning paper smell
Longitudinal twists.
Resistance to alkalis.
IDENTIFICATION OF COTTON FIBRE
VARIOUS FINISHES APPLIED ON COTTON
• Mercerization- adds strength, improves lustre, absorbency, dyeability
• Sanforization-ensures less than 1 % shrinkage
• Moireing- for variable luster and variable pattern
• Glazing-gloss, smoothness and embossed effects
• Stiffening- smoothen, stiffens and strengthens
• Wrinkle resistant permanent press- improves shape-retension and imparts dip-dry characteristic
• Schrenerizing-adds luster
• Stain repelling-for easy care
• Napping-for softness, warmth and increased absorbency
• Singeing-for smoothness
• Weighting-for bulk
• Insulating-for warmth
• Embossing-for decoration
• Mildew resistant
• Fire-retardant
• Moth-resistant
USES OF COTTON
• In apparels- men, women and children wear
• In household furnishings
• In industrial textiles
• In medical field
• In hosiery and sportswear
• In tents and shelters
ADVANTAGES• It can be processed into a wide selection of fabrics-
1. Sheer fabrics- cambric,batist chiffon,lawn,organdy and voile.2. Medium weight cottons-broadcloth,drill,flannel,poplin,terry cloth and long cloth.3. Heavy weight cottons-brocade,corduroy,denim,pique and velveteen
• Can be mercerized to improve luster, absorbency,dyeability and strength.
• Textured effects are easily achieved by-
1. Changing yarn structure-high twist yarns, nub yarns, bouclé yarns, crimped yarn2. Changing fabric construction- crepes, seer suckers3. Application of special finishes- embossing and napping
• Can be easily dyed or printed with almost all classes of dyes.
• Good absorbency, Does not build up static electricity, Good conductor of heat
LIMITATIONS
• Untreated cotton wrinkles easily
• Susceptible to mildew if left damp
• Flammable
• Takes a long time to dry
Staple Yarn manufacturing
• The concept
• Making all the fibers to be parallel to each other and twist so as the fibers wrap around each other.
Cotton Process• Plucking and Picking• Ginning• Opening and mixing• Cleaning• Carding• Drawing• Combing(optional)• Roving• Spinning
Yarn Manufacturing Processes Plucking:-
1. Manual
2. Mechanical
Picking:- open tufts are collected and rolled into a batt. Then batt is removed from the cylindrical screens of the picker in an even flat sheet and rolled into a lap
GinningHarvested raw cotton containsseeds, leaf fragments etc.
Cottonseeds weigh 2/3rds of rawcotton when picked.
These are removed by a cotton gin.Cotton gin has saw-toothed bandsthat pull the fiber from the seeds.Then cotton fiber is compressedinto rectangular bales, covered
withjute or polypropylene bagging andbound with iron bands.
Opening and blending
• The sequential production process begins by converting the compacted layers of baled cotton into small, light, fluffy tufts that facilitate removal of foreign matter. This initial process is called “opening” done with the help of mechanical beaters
• Since bales are of different density, they are cut 24 hrs before processing in order to allow them to “bloom”.
Scutching
• The opened bunch of fibers are picked and opened• Further cleaned off the dirt, sand, broken stalks and
leaves, seeds etc.,• The fibers are oriented towards their length• Finally a web like finely oriented lap is drawn over a
roller called Lap roller
Carding
• The lap is fed between two rollers of combs of fine needles, directionally operating opposite, comb the lap.
• Another doffing comb cleans and orients the fibers apart by removing short fibers,dirt and other impurities.
• The lap is transformed into a voluminous soft strand called card sliver.
Carding The card successively works on small tufts of fibres
•separating or opening them,•removing a high percentage of trash and other foreign matters•collecting the fibre in a rope-like form called “sliver” and delivering it for further processing.
The fibres are made parallel to each other and their direction is oriented.
Drawing
• A set of card slivers are placed and drawn together to produce Same length of Sliver equal to set of the slivers fed.
• The short staples are removed and the fibers are more paralelalised and the fibers from different lots are more evenly mixed towards the twisting axis.
Combing
• This process is similar to drawing but having very fine needles as combers
• The shorter fibers are more effectively removed, more oriented so that it could be spun into a more finer and superior quality yarn.
• Combing is generally an optional process which is done generally for finer quality of yarns.
Combing
•Provides more extensivecleaning than carding
•Removes short fibres (linters)neps and trash so that the resulting sliver isClean, lustrous and moreuniform in diameter.
Roving
• The slivers from drawing are drawn further to a finer strand with lesser twist just to hold the fibers
• This results in roved sliver
Spinning
• The roved sliver is set in a spinning frame and fed with a speed according to the fineness required.
• Roving drawn at higher speed than it’s fed.• There is a flier which carries and draws the
roving due its high speed.• The twist is inserted due to the rotation of
the flier round the bobbin placed.
Open end spinning
• The concept is to take fibers at an earlier stage and spin it either– Mechanically– Fluid– Electrostatic force
The fibers are taken into an area where the fibers are aligned by any of the above forces and oriented towards their spinning axis.
Doubling
• Doubling is done generally when the yarn is required with high strength .
• Doubling is also done for yarns that are generally meant for warp as it needs more strength
• Doubling also can create texture in to the yarn.
COTTON FROM FIELDS
(Plucking)
BALE ROOM
BALE OPENING &MIXING
LAP MAKING
FINISHED LAPSFOR CARDING
TWO BLADE BEATER
SCUTCHER
Blow room operations:
BLOW ROOM
• Blending• Opening• Cleaning and• Lap formation
LAP FOR CARDING
CARDING MACHINE
CARDED SLIVER
CARDING:
Removal of impurities and foreign particles from the lapand converting in to sliver
COMBING:
DRAWING:
RIBBON LAP
Parallelisation of fibres by further drawing of slivers combined fromseveral carded/combed slivers
Removal of short staple fibres
RING FRAME SPEED FRAME OR SIMPLEX
ROVING: SPINNING:Sliver made thinner and slighttwist introduced
Conversion of parallel staple fibresin to continuous strand of yarn
CONE / CHEESE WINDING
DOUBLING OF YARNS
WINDING: Winding of spun yarn done in ring bobbins, cones or cheese.
DOUBLING:Two or more single yarns from cones areTwisted and wound to a parallel cheese
FINISHING OF YARNS:
SIZING OF YARNS
AFTER TREATMENTS GIVEN TO YARNS
WEIGHING OF YARNS
• Sizing • Ultra violet yarn inspection and• Steaming
ROTOR OR OPEN END
Blow room
Carding
Draw frame
Open end spinning
Assembly winder
Doubling
Packing
SPINNINGRING SPINNING
Blow room
Carding
Sliver lap
Ribbon lap
Comber
Draw frame
Simplex
Ring frame
Cone winding
PACKING
PROPERTIES OF
FLAX FIBRE
FLAX It is a natural cellosic bast
fibre derived from the stems and
bast of a plant. The heaviest fibre with
density of 1.51g/cc. flax is processed to make
linen fibre. Produced in countries like
australia, belgium, france, germany etc.
RETTING OF FLAX
• It is valued for its exceptional coolness and freshness in hot weather and is thus superior to cotton in this regard.
• Linen was used in the Mediterranean in the pre-Christian age.
• Linen was sometimes used as currency in ancient Egypt.
• Strength: Linen is a durable fiber, as is two-three times as strong as cotton. It is second in strength to silk.
• Elasticity: Elasticity is the extent to which a fiber can be elongated or stretched and the then returned to its normal condition and size. Linen is the least elastic natural fabric.
• Resilience: Resilience refers to the extent to which a fabric can be deformed by crushing or compressing it, and finally returning it to its original condition. Linen is quite stiff and wrinkles easily.
• Absorbency: Absorbency refers to the extent to which moisture can penetrate into a fiber. The fiber absorbs moisture and dries more quickly. It is excellent for manufacturing towels and handkerchiefs.
• Heat Conductivity: Heat conductivity refers to the extent to which heat can be conveyed through a fiber. It is most suitable for use in summers, as the fiber allows the heat to escape, leaving a cool effect.
• Linen is also used for cloth, canvases, sails, tents, and even for books. For eg; Liber Linteus.
• Irish Linen is the best wrap of pool/billiard cues, due to its absorption of sweat from hands.
• Linen was probably never used as material for the Hoplite cuirass because of its price.
• It should be ironed when damp.• The natural color of unbleached linen is ecru.
• Linen will withstand washing in hot water and scrubbing.
• It can be bleached by spreading it in the sun to dry.• Due to its strength, in the Middle Ages linen was
used for shields and gambeson.• Its uses were collectively called “body linen”.• Linen is also used for cloth, canvases, sails, tents,
and even for books. For eg; Liber Linteus.• Irish Linen is the best wrap of pool/billiard cues, due
to its absorption of sweat from hands.• Linen was probably never used as material for the
Hoplite cuirass because of its price.
PRODUCTION OF FLAX
The fibre is extracted from the basts by a process called retting. In this, the layers of basts are kept in water, soaked for sometime (from some hours to few days) and then the fibre is removed from the swelled bast. There are two types of retting:
Chemical retting: it is done using H2So4 or caustic soda inboiling water.
Natural retting : it is done by soaking the stems in dewdrops, rainfall or stagnant water(ponds, lakes etc).
Countries cultivating flax plant are
Belgium
Scot
France
Russia
Germany
Countrai flax produces the finest and strongest yarn from Belgium
QUALITY AND GRADES
1. CULTIVATION: April or May 2. HARVESTING: By the end of August
3. PREPARATION OF FIBRES: Rippling/Threshing – seeds and leaves
removal from stem. Retting – Most important process where stems
are left under moistened condition to decompose and separation of fibers.
METHODS OF SEPARATION OF LINEN
Types of retting :
1. Dew retting
2. Pool or Dam retting
3. Stream retting
4. Vat retting
5. Chemical retting
4. Manufacturing process:BreakingScutchingHackling (Coming)Spinning.
• Inelastic so usually break during weaving process
• Very moist atmosphere is required.
• Generally not knitted because of
a) Inherent stiffness
b)Resistance to being formed into loops
CONSTRUCTION OF LINEN FABRICS
MORPHOLOGICAL STRUCTURE
MACROSCOPIC PROPERTIES
Fine regular longitudnal strands of fibre Length varies from 10 to 100cm. Thickness ranges from 10 to 20cm. Length:breadth ratio= 15000:1(fine) & 1500:1(short) Color ranges between light blond to grey.
MICROSCOPIC PROPERTIES
• It has 800 nodes in one fibre.
• The cells are covered with thick wax layer which subdue its lusture.
• Flax cells are hard and more resistant than cotton.
Flax Fibre
About 3-6 cells constitute a fibre cross-section. Microscopic view :Longitudinal shape – cylindrical (like a bamboo)Cross-sectional shape – polygonal
(cross sectional shape) (longitudinal shape)
PROPERTIES
• PHYSICAL PROPERTIES:
High tenacity due to crystalline structureWet tenacity is high due to more no. of hydrogen
bonds. Inelastic like cotton and wrinkleds.Hydroscopic in natureHas the best heat resistance due to thick wax layer.
CHEMICAL PROPERTIES
Effects of alkalis: Treatment of flax with alkali increases its lustre, absorbency and reactivity but reduces its strength. This process is called cottonisation.
Effect of acids: acids weaken the fibre by hydrolysing the polymer at glycoside oxygen atom.
Effect of bleaches: two commonly used oxidizing bleaches are sodium hypochlorite and sodium perborate.
Effect of sunlight and weather: the UV rays and infra red rays provide photochemical and heat energy which is enuf to degrade the fibre.
Resistance to perspiration: color fades due to excessive perspiration.
USES OF FLAX• Table wear • Suiting • Clothing apparel • Surgical thread • Sewing thread • Decorative fabrics • Bed linen • Kitchen towels • High quality papers• Handkerchief linen • Shirting • Upholstery • Draperies • Wall coverings • Artist's canvases • Luggage fabrics
Physical Properties
COLOUR Light ivory to dark tan or grey (due to cortical tissue adhering to the fibres)
DENSITY 1.50 g/cm3
LENGTH 2” to 36” (due to high degree of polymerisation-18000)
LUSTRE Good (due to its long regular fibre surface which is covered with a film of wax)
PILLING PROBLEM Less (due to long fibres)
ABSORBENCY Very good (polar –OH groups attract water molecules)
Mechanical properties
STRENGTHTwice that of cotton ( crystalline structure and formation of H-bonds);
20% more wet strength (formation of more H-bonds)
ELASTICITY , ELONGATION , RESILIENCY & FLEXIBILITY
Poor (due to crystalline polymer system and formation of countless H-bonds)
ABRASION RESISTANCE Fair ; abrades at folds and edges
WRINKLE RESISTANCE Poor (due to poor resiliency )
Electrical & Thermal Properties
HEAT & ELECTRICAL CONDUCTIVITY Good
STATIC ELECTRICITYNo problem; no static buildup (absorbency and conductivity is good)
EFFECT OF HEATWithstands high temperature; may char and burn at very high temperatures
Biological & Chemical Properties
COMPOSITION70% cellulose, 30% pectin, woody tissue, ash
and moisture.
AFFINITY TO DYESTUFF
Difficult to dye (surface of fibre is hard and non-porous, therefore impenetrable to dyes)
BIOLOGICAL RESISTANCE
Resistant to moths;
Attacked by silverfish fungi, mildew & bacteria (cellulosic composition)
RESISTANCE TO SUNLIGHT
Good
CHEMICAL RESISTANCE
Weakened by bleaches and acids (tissue holding the cells are broken down by bleaches and acids);
Resistant to alkalies
JUTE
• Jute is one of the cheapest natural fibres
• Long soft shiny vegetable fibre
• It falls into bast fibre category and can be spun into coarse thread
• Jute fibres are composed primarily of the plant materials cellulose and lignin .
JuteSOURCE
•Jute is one of the strongest natural fibres•The jute fibre comes from the stem and ribbon (outer skin) of the jute plant.•The production is concentrated in Bangladesh, India, China, and Thailand.• It is the second most important vegetable fibre after cotton, in terms of usage, global consumption, production, and availability.
• It is thus a ligno-cellulosic fibre that is partially a textile fibre and partially wood.
• The plant grows upto a height of 2.5m and its fibre length is about 2m.• it is generally used in geo textiles.• it has a good resistance to micro organisms and insects.• it has low wet strength, low elongation and inexpensive to produce
JUTE FURNISHED FABRICS
•Jute is a long, soft, shiny vegetable fiber that can be spun into coarse, strong threads.•It is produced from plants in the genus Corchorus, family Tiliaceae.•Jute is one of the cheapest natural fibres and is second only to cotton in amount produced and variety of uses. •Jute fibres are composed primarily of the plant materials cellulose (major component of plant fibre) and lignin (major components wood fibre). •It falls into the bast fibre category (fibre collected from bast or skin of the plant) along with kenaf, industrial hemp, flax (linen), ramie, etc.
• The industrial term for jute fibre is raw jute. • The fibres are off-white to brown, and 1–4 meters
(3–12 feet) long. • Jute plants (Corchorus olitorius and Corchorus
capsularis)• Jute fibre is often called hessian; jute fabrics are
also called hessian cloth and jute sacks are called gunny bags in some European countries. The fabric made from jute is popularly known as burlap in North America.
Bundles of jute, showing the fibres of Corchorus olitorius (tossa jute fibre) and Corchorus capsularis (white jute fibre)
Jute plants (Corchorus olitorius and Corchorus capsularis)
FEATURES
• The lower part is hard fibre, which is called jute cuttings in Bangladesh and India (commonly called jute butts or jute tops elsewhere). Jute cuttings are lower in quality, but have commercial value for the paper, carded yarn, and other fibre processing industries. Jute fibre is 100% bio-degradable and recyclable and thus environmentally friendly.
• It is a natural fibre with golden and silky shine and hence called The Golden Fibre.
• It is the cheapest vegetable fibre procured from the bast or skin of the plant's stem.
Picture of cutting lower part of the long jute fibre. The lower part is hard fibre, which is called jute cuttings in Bangladesh and India (commonly called jute butts or jute tops elsewhere). Jute cuttings are lower in quality, but have commercial value for the paper, carded yarn, and other fibre processing industries.
USES OF JUTE• Jute is used chiefly to make cloth for
wrapping bales of raw cotton, and to make sacks and coarse cloth.•The fibres are also woven into curtains, chair coverings, carpets, area rugs, hessian cloth, and backing for linoleum. •The fibres are used alone or blended with other types of fibres to make twine and rope. •Jute butts, the coarse ends of the plants, are used to make inexpensive cloth. •Jute is also used in the making of ghilie suits. Which are used as camoflauge and resemble grasses or brush.
Jute matting being used to prevent flood erosion while natural vegetation becomes established. For this purpose, a natural and biodegradable fibre is essential.
Minor Cellulosic Fibres
• These fibres are those which are rarely used in Apparel use.
• They are produced in less quantity.• The Minor Cellulosic Fibres are:1) Hemp 6) Coir 2) Manila Hemp3) Ramie4) Sisal5) Kapok
HEMP FIBRE
• Hemp is a vegetable fibre.
• It is obtained from the Hemp plant.
• It is cultivated almost all over the world, except for the United States.
Properties of Hemp Fibre
• It is a yellowish brown fibre
• Hemp fibers can be 3 to 15 feet long, running the length of the plant.
• Depending on the processing used to remove the fiber from the stem, the hemp naturally may be creamy white, brown, gray, black or green Harvesting of Hemp
Appearance -Hemp
Uses of Hemp Fibre
Hemp fabric
Hemp Necklace
Hemp toe sandal
MANILLA
• Manilla, also known as Manila Hemp, is a fibre obtained from the leaves of the abaca plant.
• Mainly cultivated in Manila, the capital of Philippines.
The abaca plant
Properties of Manilla Fibre
• The abaca plant grows up to 20 feet when mature.
• The stem consists of tightly packed, long, crescent-shaped sheaths, that grow from a central core.
Mature abaca plant
Manilla Hemp Yarn
Characteristics of Manilla fibre
Extremely strong. Resistant to salt water. Bio-degradable. Eco-friendly. Has a beautiful
texture. Relatively cheap to
produce.Manilla Rope
Uses of Manilla Fibre
• Manilla fibre is used to make
Ropes Paper Rug Furniture Carpet and countless
other products.
Manilla Rope
Manilla Bag
RAMIE
• Ramie is one of the oldest fibre crops, having been used for at least six thousand years.
• It is also known as china grass.
• Ramie is normally harvested two to three times a year but under good growing conditions, can be harvested up to six times per year.
• The ramie plant is 2.5m tall.Ramie Plant
Properties of Ramie
• Ramie fibre is one of the strongest natural fibres.
• The fibre is similar to flax in absorbency, density and microscopic appearance.
• Silky lustre to the fabric appearance.
• Usually blended with other fibres, as it is not that durable.
Ramie Yarn
Characteristics of Ramie
• Ramie fibre has the ability to hold shape.
• Resistance to wrinkling.
• It is stiff and brittle.• Lacks resiliency.• Low elasticity
Ramie Fabric
Uses of Ramie
• Ramie is used to make Industrial sewing
thread Packing materials Fishing nets Filter cloths
Ramie Packing
Ramie Hat
SISAL
• Sisal is obtained from the leaves of the Sisal Plant.
• Annually, thousands of tonnes of Sisal fibres are produced in most parts of Africa and Asia.
Sisal Plant
Properties of Sisal Fibre
• Sisal fibres are smooth, straight and yellow and can be long or short.
• Since it is coarse and inflexible, it is mainly blended with wool or acrylic to give a softer hand. Harvested Sisal
Characteristics of Sisal Fibre
• Sisal fibre is Strong Durable Ability to stretch Affinity towards
certain dyestuff Resistance to
deterioration in salt water Sisal Fibre
Uses of Sisal Fibre
• Sisal fibres are used to make
Rugs Slippers Ropes Carpets Specialty papers
Sisal Bag Sisal Scrub
Sisal Rug
KAPOK
• Kapok fiber is a silky cotton-like substance that surrounds the seeds in the pods of the ceiba tree.
• The pods contain seeds surrounded by a fluffy, yellowish fiber that is a mix of lignin and cellulose.
Kapok pod
Properties of Kapok Fibre
• It can support as much as 30 times its own weight in water and loses only 10 percent of buoyancy over a 30-day period.
• It is eight times lighter than cotton.
• The fibre is yellowish.
Kapok Pod (open)
Characteristics of Kapok Fibre
• The Kapok fibre is Light Very buoyant Highly flammable Resistant to water
Kapok Seed
Appearance-kapok
Kapok yarn spool
Uses of Kapok Fibre
• Kapok is mainly used in stuffing of
Pillows Blankets Soft toys Upholstery and for Insulation
Kapok used for Filling
Uses of Kapok Fibre
Upholstery Blanket
Pillow
Soft Toy
COIR• Fibre mechanically extracted
from dry mature coconut husk after soaking.
• It is long, hard and strong fibre but with lower softness, lower water absorption capacity, and shorter life than long retted fibre.
• There are two types of Coirs1) Brown Coir2) White Coir Coconut tree, Coconut and
Husk
Properties of Coir Fibre
• The individual fiber cells are narrow and hollow, with thick walls made of cellulose.
• They are pale when immature but later become hardened and yellowed as a layer of lignin is deposited on their walls.
Coir
Characteristics of Coir Fibre
• Coir Fibre is Relatively water proof Resistant to damage
by salt water Brown Coir is thick
and strong White Coir is
smoother and fine. Segregation of Coir Fibre
Appearance –coir
Uses of Coir Fibre
• Coir Fibre is used for Padding in furniture• Production of Brushes Carpets Ropes Rags
Coir Carpet
Coir Rope
THANK YOU
COIR
SOURCE• Coir fibers are found between the husk and the outer shell of a
coconut.
• The individual fiber cells are narrow and hollow, with thick walls made of cellulose.
The coir is of two types:1. Brown coir2. White coir
MANUFACTURING PROCESSBROWN COIR
•Brown coir is harvested from fully ripened coconuts
•The fibrous layer of the fruit is then separated from the hard shell (manually) by driving the fruit down onto a spike to split it (De-husking
•The fibrous husks are soaked in pits or in nets in a slow moving body of water to swell and soften the fibres
•The long bristle fibres are separated from the shorter mattress fibres underneath the skin of the nut, a process known as wet-milling
•The mattress fibres are sifted to remove dirt and other rubbish, dried in the sun and packed into bales
WHITE COIR
• White coir fibers are harvested from the coconuts before they are ripe
• The immature husks are suspended in a river or water-filled pit for up to ten months.
• During this time micro-organisms break down the plant tissues surrounding the fibres to loosen them - a process known as retting
• Segments of the husk are then beaten by hand to separate out the long fibres which are subsequently dried and cleaned
• Cleaned fibre is ready for spinning into yarn using a simple one-handed system or a spinning wheel.
RETTING
PROPERTIES• Mature brown coir fibers contain more lignin
and less cellulose than fibers such as flax and cotton and so are stronger but less flexible
• The fibers are white or light brown in color and are smoother and finer, but also weaker
USES
• Brown coir is used in floor mats and doormats, brushes, mattresses, floor tiles and sacking.
• Used to make twine
• Used to fill mattresses
• The major use of white coir is in rope manufacture
HEMP
The fiber is one of the most valuable parts of the hemp plant.
It is commonly called "bast fibre", meaning it grows as a stalk from the ground
PROPERTIES
•The inner two fibers of hemp are more woody, and are more often used in non-woven items and other industrial applications
•Hemp fibers can be 3 to 15 feet long, running the length of the plant.
•the hemp naturally may be creamy white, brown, gray, black or green
USES
•the manufacture of cordage of varying tensile strength
•clothing
•nutritional products
•hemp fibers are increasingly used to strengthen cement
RAMIE:- Ramie (Boehmeria nivea) is a flowering plant in the nettle family native to eastern Asia. The true ramie or china grass also called Chinese plant or white ramie is the chinese cultivated plant. A second type is known as green ramie or rhea and is believed to originate from Malay peninsula. It is suitable in tropical climate….. Ramie is one of the oldest fibre crops, having been used for at least six thousand years, and is principally used for fabric production. It is a bast fibre, and the part used is the bark of the vegetative stalks. Ramie is normally harvested two to three times a year but under good growing conditions can be harvested up to six times per year.Unlike other bast crops, ramie requires chemical processing to de-gum the fibre.
PropertiesRamie is one of the strongest natural fibers. It exhibits even greater strength when wet. Ramie fiber is known especially for its ability to hold shape, reduce wrinkling, and introduce a silky lustre to the fabric appearance. It is not as durable as other fibers, and so is usually used as a blend with other fibers such as cotton or wool. It is similar to flax in absorbency, density and microscopic appearance. However it will not dye as well as cotton. Because of its high molecular crystallinity, ramie is stiff and brittle and will break if folded repeatedly in the same place; it lacks resiliency and is low in elasticity and elongation potential.
UsesDespite its strength, ramie has had limited acceptance for textile use. The fiber's extraction and cleaning are expensive, chiefly because of the several steps—involving scraping, pounding, heating, washing, or exposure to chemicals. Some or all are needed to separate the raw fiber from the adhesive gums or resins in which it is ensheathed. Spinning the fiber is made difficult by its brittle quality and low elasticity; and weaving is complicated by the hairy surface of the yarn, resulting from lack of cohesion between the fibers. The greater utilization of ramie depends upon the development of improved processing methods.
•Kapok (Ceiba pentandra) is a tropical tree of the order Malvales and the family Malvaceae (previously separated in the family Bombacaceae), native to Mexico, Central America and the Caribbean, northern South America, and (as the variety C. pentandra var. guineensis) to tropical west Africa. The word is also used for the fibre obtained from its seed pods. The tree is also known as the Java cotton, Java kapok, or ceiba. It is a sacred symbol in Maya mythology.
• Uses• The fibre is light, very buoyant, resilient, highly
flammable and resistant to water. The process of harvesting and separating the fibre is labour-intensive and manual. It cannot be spun but is used as an alternative to down as filling in mattresses, pillows, upholstery, teddy bears and for insulation. It was previously much used in life jackets and similar devices. The fibre has been largely replaced by man-made materials. The seeds produce an oil used locally in soap and that can be used as fertilizer.
• Piña
Piña is a fiber made from the leaves of a pineapple and is commonly used in the Philippines. It is sometimes combined with silk or polyester to create a textile fabric. The end fabric is lightweight, easy to care for and has an elegant appearance similar to linen
Major Fiber Properties
• Piña comes from the leaves of the pineapple plant. "Each strand of the hand scrapped Piña fiber is knotted one by one to form a continuous filament for hand weaving into the Piña cloth". The piña fiber is softer, and has a high luster, and is usually white or ivory in color.
Production Methods • Scraping a pineapple leaf to reveal the fibers.• Since piña is from a leaf, the leaf has to be cut from the
plant. Then the fiber is pulled or split away from the leaf. Most leaf fibers are long and somewhat stiff.
Uses• A major use for piña fabric is in the creation of
the Barong Tagalong and other formal wear that is common in the Philippines. It is also used for other table linens, bags, mats and other clothing items, or anytime that a light weight, but stiff and sheer fabric is needed.
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