Maldives

Tom Masters

#_

NorthernAtolls(p103)

North & South Male Atolls

(p58)

SouthernAtolls(p116)

Ari Atoll &Around

(p94)Male (p71)

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Maldives ........ 4

Maldives Map ..................... 6

Maldives’ Top 10 ................. 8

Need to Know ................... 14

What’s New ........................16

If You Like... .......................17

Choosing a Resort ............19

Diving, Snorkelling & Surfing ..........................30

Eat & Drink Like a Local ......................45

Independent Travel ..........49

Regions at a Glance ........ 55

MALE........................... 58Sights ................................. 60Activities .............................64Sleeping ..............................65Eating ..................................66Drinking & Nightlife ............68Entertainment .....................68Shopping .............................68Getting There & Away .........69Getting Around ...................70

NORTH & SOUTH MALE ATOLLS . . . . . . . 71Around Male . . . . . . . . . . .72Hulhumale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72

Hulhule . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74Villingili. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74North Male Atoll . . . . . . . .74Kaashidhoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85Gaafaru Falhu . . . . . . . . . . . 86South Male Atoll . . . . . . . 86Maafushi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92

ARI ATOLL & AROUND .................. 94North Ari Atoll .....................95Rasdhoo Atoll ......................98Thoddoo ............................100South Ari Atoll ...................100

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PLAN YOUR TRIP

Contents

NORTHERN ATOLLS ......................103Haa Alifu ............................ 104Haa Dhaalu ....................... 105Shaviyani ........................... 105Noonu ................................ 107Raa .................................... 108Baa .................................... 109

Lhaviyani ............................114

SOUTHERN ATOLLS ...................... 116Vaavu .................................. 117Meemu ............................... 117Faafu...................................118

Dhaalu ...............................121Thaa ................................. 123Laamu .............................. 124Gaafu Alifu ....................... 125Gaafu Dhaalu ................... 127Gnaviyani ......................... 128Addu Atoll ........................ 129

Maldives Today ............... 134

History ............................ 136

Maldivian Way of Life .... 145

Wildlife in Maldives ........ 151

Environmental Issues & Responsible Travel ..... 159

Arts, Crafts & Architecture................ 164

Directory A–Z ................. 168

Transport .........................176

Health ..............................179

Language ........................ 182

Index ............................... 186

Map Legend .....................191

ONE & ONLY REETHI RAH RESORT P83

SPECIAL FEATURESChoosing a Resort . . . . . 19

Big Creatures of the Deep . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

Independent Travel . . . .49

Local Life . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52

UNDERSTAND

SURVIVAL GUIDE

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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185185

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Janet Wishnetsky, Janice Douthwaite, Joe Sinclair, John May, Josh Lockington, Nitzan Winograd, and Rinse Balk, Bastiaan Balk & Ilse Harms

WRITER THANKSTom MastersHuge thanks first of all to Moritz Estermann, who accompanied me on the first leg of this trip. Big thanks also to the scores of resort employees who helped me with my trip and went to great lengths to help me reach distant islands: you are way too many to thank, but know who you are. Big thanks also to

Misbah, Shauna, Shamoon, Aziz, Paul, Basith, Clara, Richard and the whole team at MWSRP.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Cover photograph: Aerial view of an island in the North Male Atoll, Sakis Papadopoulos/Getty Images ©

Behind the Scenes

THIS BOOKThis 10th edition of Lonely Planet’s Maldives guidebook was researched and written by Tom Masters, who also wrote the previous three editions, and curated by Joe Bindloss. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Joe BindlossSenior Product Editor Kate ChapmanProduct Editor Sam WheelerSenior Cartographer Valentina KremenchutskayaBook Designer Gwen CotterAssisting Editors Trent

Holden, Tamara Sheward, Fionnuala Twomey, Maja VatrićCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Ronan Abayawick-rema, Jennifer Carey, Bruce Evans, Sandie Kestell, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Genna Patterson, Jessica Ryan, Angela Tinson

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

186

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AAarah 74accommodation 19-29,

168-9, see also resorts, guesthouses, individual locations

activities, see individual activities, individual locations

Addu Atoll 129-32, 130air travel 176-7airlines 176-7alcohol 16, 54Alifushi 108anemonefish 154anemones 180angelfish 154architecture 166Ari Atoll 94-102, 96

accommodation 94-102activities 95, 98, 100diving 95, 98, 100highlights 95information 99travel seasons 94travel to/from 98-100,

102arts 164-5ATMs 171atoll formation 157

BBaa Atoll 9, 109-14, 110-11bargaining 171-2beach erosion 159beaches 27

Artificial Beach 63bends, the 99, 181boat travel 54, 177-8bodu beru 13, 164, 13books 134, 164-5boxfish 154

bridges 125British Loyalty wreck 131,

30-1 budget 15business hours 15, 172butterfly fish 154

Ccall to prayer 53car travel 178cash 172cell phones 14, 173-4children, travel with 18, 69,

169-70health 181

China-Maldives Friendship Bridge 16, 60

citizenship 145coconut oil 165consulates 170coral 151-2, 157

bleaching 38cuts & stings 180

crafts 165-6credit cards 172culture 145-50currency 14, 171customs regulations 148,

170

Ddance 164dangers 63day trips 25decompression sickness

99, 181Dhaalu Atoll 121-3, 120-1Dhevvadhoo 125Dhidhdhoo 104Dhiffushi 75Dhigurah 100Dhivehi 182-3

script 182Dhiyamigili 124dhonis 150, 166, 178, 8diarrhoea 180

disabilities, travellers with 174

dive sitesBaa Atoll 112Banana Reef 78Bodu Hithi Thila 78British Loyalty wreck

131, 30-1Broken Rock 102Colosseum 78Devana Kandu 117Dhidhdhoo Beyru 100Dhigali Haa 112Ellaidhoo House Reef 95Embudhoo Express 86Erlangen wreck 86Fesdu wreck 95Filitheyo Reef 119Fish Head 95Fotteyo 117Fushifaru Thila 115Fushi Kandu 122Giant Clam 118Guraidhoo Kandu 90Halaveli wreck 95Hammerhead Point 98Hans Hass Place 64Helengeli Thila 75HP Reef 78Kakani Thila 112Kuda Giri 86Kuda Kandu 132Kudarah Thila 102Kuramathi House Reef 98Kuredhoo Express 115Lady Christine wreck 86Lion’s Head 64Maa Kandu 132Maaya Thila 95Macro Spot 122Madi Finolhu 112Maldive Victory wreck 64Manta Point (North Male

Atoll) 75Manta Point (Addu

Atoll) 131

Milaidhoo Reef 112Muthafushi Thila 112North Male Atoll 78Okobe Thila 78Orimas Thila 95Panetone 102Rakeedhoo Kandu 117Rasfari 78Shark Nursery 109Shark Point (Addu Atoll)

132Shark Point (North Male

Atoll) 75Shark’s Tongue 118Shipyard 115South Ari Atoll 102South Male Atoll 90SS Seagull wreck 86Tiger Zoo 128Two Brothers 119Vaadhoo Caves 90Vaagali Caves 90Vattaru Kandu 117Velassaru Caves 86-7Veligandu Kandu 98

Divers Alert Network 181 diving 17, 20, 22-3, 30-44,

10-12, 30, 32, 37, 39, see also individual locations

certificates 32costs 36, 38courses 31-2environmental issues

38-9equipment 36insurance 181safaris 32-6, 33safety 181Sea Explorers Dive School

64-5seasons 32

dolphins 153drinking 25-6, 45-8, see also

alcoholdrugs 171

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

187IN

DEX E-N

Eeconomy 147ecotourism 22Eedhigali Kilhi & Kottey

Protected Area 130eels 35, 155, 34-5electricity 170embassies 170emergencies 15entertainment 26-7environmental issues 38-9,

84, 159-63etiquette 48, 54, 134, 170exchange rates 15Eydhafushi 109

FFaafu Atoll 118-21, 120-1family travel, see children,

travel withFelivaru 114ferries 54, 178Feydhoo 129-30films 134fish 153-8, see also

individual speciesfisheries 161, 52fishing 25, 53, 161flutemouth 154flying gurnard 155food 17, 25-6, 45-8, 170

etiquette 48vegetarian & vegan 47

Funadhoo 74, 105Fuvahmulah 128

GGaafaru Falhu 86Gaafu Alifu Atoll 125-7, 126Gaafu Dhaalu Atoll 127-8,

126Gadhdhoo 127Gan (Addu Atoll) 129Gan (Gaafu Dhaalu) 128Gan (Laamu) 124Gasfinolhu 84Gayoom, Maumoon Abdul

140-4gay travellers 170-1geography 160geology 161global warming 160Gnaviyani 128-9, 126Grand Friday Mosque 62-3groupers 155guesthouses 22, 50, 54,

169, 10Gulhi 86

Guraidhoo 86, 124

HHaa Alifu Atoll 104Haa Dhaalu 105hammerhead sharks 35,

152, 11Hani Kandu 108-9 Hanifaru Bay 9, 109, 9Hanifaru Unesco Biosphere

Reserve 113Hanimaadhoo 105hawittas 124, 127, 136health 179-81

insurance 179heat exhaustion 180heatstroke 180hedhikaa 45-6Heyerdahl, Thor 128, 136Himmafushi 75history 136-44, see also

individual locations1988 coup 1412012 coup 144British influence 137-40conversion to Islam

136-7democracy 143-4Dutch influence 137-8Portuguese influence 137

Hithadhoo 129-30holidays 172-3hotels 169house names 70Hulhudheli 121Hulhule 74Hulhumale 72-4, 73Hulhumeedhoo 130Huraa 75Huvadhoo Atoll 125-7hyperbaric chambers 99

Iidolatry 148independent travel 49-54insurance 171, 179, 181internet access 171internet resources 15Isdhoo 124Islam 53, 147-9itineraries 51, 51

Jjacks 155jewellery 166jolis 165

KKaashidhoo 85-6Kadhoo 124Kanditheemu 105Kinolhas 108Kolhufushi 117Kondey 125Kooddoo 125Kudahuvadhoo 121Kulhuduffushi 105

LLaamu Atoll 124-5, 126lacquer work 165-6Landhoo 107language 14, 182legal matters 171lesbian travellers 170-1Lhaviyani Atoll 114-15,

110-11lifestyle 145-50lionfish 155literature 164-5live-aboards 169luxury resorts 17, 27, 123

MMaa Kandu 131Maafushi 11, 92-3 11Maamigili 100Mahibadhoo 100Maldives Whale Shark

Research Programme 101

Male 13, 58-70, 59, 61, 62-3, 73, 13, 52

accommodation 58, 65-6activities 64-5children, travel with 69costs 65, 66diving 64-5drinking & nightlife 68entertainment 68food 58, 66-8highlights 60history 59information 68-9safety 63shopping 68sights 60-3travel seasons 58travel to/from 69-70travel within 70walking tour 61

Manadhoo 107manta rays 35, 152-3, 9Manta Reef 100maps 171

Maradhoo 129-30markets 13

fish market, Male 62produce market, Male 62

mas huni 45maps 165Medhu Ziyaarath 63medical services 179Meemu Atoll 117-8, 120-1Milandhoo 105mobile phones 14, 173-4money 14-15, 171-2Moorish idols 155moray eels 35, 155, 34-5mosques

Aasaari Miskiiy 119Grand Friday Mosque

62-3Old Friday Mosque 60

mosquitoes 180Mulah 117Muleeaage 63Muli 117museums

National Art Gallery 63, 165

National Museum 60, 165

music 164

NNaifaru 114Nasheed, Mohammed

134-5, 143-4National Art Gallery 63, 165National Museum 60, 165national parks 158newspapers 146Nilandhoo 119Noonu 107-8North Male Atoll 71, 74-

85, 76accommodation 71,

75-85activities 75diving 75, 78highlights 72sights 74-5surfing 75travel seasons 71travel to/from 85

Northern Atolls 103-15, 106, 110-11

accommodation 103-5, 107-15

diving 109, 112, 115highlights 104travel seasons 103

188

IND

EX O-T

OOld Friday Mosque 60opening hours 15, 172

Pparks

Rasrani Bageecha 63parrotfish 155-6people 145-7photography 172pilot fish 156pipefish 156planning

budgeting 15internet resources 15Maldives basics 14-15Maldives regions 58-9repeat visitors 16travel seasons 14

politics 134-5, 147population 135postal services 172Produce Market 62Protected Marine Areas

158Banana Reef 78Edu Faru National Marine

Park 107Embudhoo Express 86Fushifaru Thila 115Shark Point (North Male

Atoll) 75public holidays 172-3pufferfish 156

RRaa Atoll 108-9, 110-11Ramazan 148, 173Rasdhoo 98-100Rasrani Bageecha 16, 63rays 35, 152-3, 9reef sharks 2reefs 44recompression

chambers 99religion 135, 147-9resorts 17-18, 19-29, 123,

168Adaaran Select

Hudhuranfushi 81-2Adaaran Select

Meedhupparu 109Amilla Fushi 111-12Anantara Kihavah Villas

112, 21Angsana Ihuru 79-80Asdu Sun Island 75, 77Ayada Maldives 127-8Bandos Island Resort 80Banyan Tree Vabbin-

faru 85Baros 84basics 24Biyadhoo Island Resort

87Cheval Blanc Randheli

108Cinnamon Hakuraa

Huraa 118Cinnamon Island

Dhonveli 81Cocoa Island by COMO

90Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu

110-11COMO Maalifushi 124Conrad Maldives Rangali

Island 101Constance Halaveli

Maldives 97-8Ellaidhoo Maldives by

Cinnamon 95Embudu Village 87Equator Village 131Finolhu 113-14Four Seasons Landaa

Giraavaru 112Four Seasons Resort

Maldives at Kuda Huraa 84

Gili Lankanfushi 82-3, 18Hideaway Beach Resort

& Spa 104Huvafen Fushi 83-4Jumeirah Vittaveli 90Kandolhu Maldives 97Kanuhura 115Kuramathi Island Resort

98-9Kuredu Island Resort &

Spa 115Kurumba Maldives 79LUX Maldives 101-2Makunudu Island 80Meeru Island Resort &

Spa 78-9Mirihi 100-1Naladhu Private Island

91-2Niyama Private Islands

122OBLU by Atmosphere at

Helengeli 77Olhuveli Beach & Spa 89One & Only Reethi Rah

83, 2-3OZEN by Atmosphere at

Maadhoo 16, 91Paradise Island Resort &

Spa 80-1Park Hyatt Maldives

Hadahaa 127pricing & supplements

24Reethi Beach Resort

109-10Rihiveli by Castaway

Hotels & Escapes 87, 89, 52

room types 24Shangri-La Villingili

Resort & Spa 131-2Sheraton Maldives Full

Moon Resort & Spa 79Sirru Fen Fushi 16,

105, 107Six Senses Laamu

124-5, 5Smartline Eriyadu 81Soneva Fushi 113Soneva Jani 16, 107-8St Regis Vommuli 16, 122Summer Island 82Sun Aqua Vilu Reef 122-3Sun Siam Iru Fushi

Maldives 107Taj Exotica 90-1tips 23travel seasons 24Velaa Private Island

108, 18Veligandu Island

Resort & Spa 99Vivanta by Taj Coral

Reef 77-8W Maldives 95, 97

responsible travel 163Ribudhoo 121Ritrella Cruise Hotel 16rock cod 156romantic getaways 17,

19-20roshi 45

Ssafari boats 33-6, 169, 33safari cruises 22safety 135, 173

diving 181scuba diving, see divingsea snakes 157sea urchins 180seaplanes 177-8, 13shark meat 161sharks 35, 152, see also

individual speciesShaviyani Atoll 105, 107shipwrecks 114, see also

Dive Sitessmoking 173snapper 156snorkelling 9, 17, 22-3,

39-40, 109, 40safety 40

South Male Atoll 71, 86-92, 88

accommodation 71, 87-92

activities 86-7diving 86, 90highlights 72sights 86surfing 87travel seasons 71travel to/from 92

South Ari Atoll 100-2diving 100, 102

Southern Atolls 116-32, 118, 120-1, 126

accommodation 116-19, 122-5, 127-8, 131-2

diving 117-19, 122, 128, 131

food 129-32highlights 119

travel seasons 116 spas 23-5

speedboats 178sport 149stingrays 35, 152-3, 180stonefish 180-1surf breaks 43-4surf sites

Chickens 75Coke’s 75Guru’s 87Honky’s 75Jailbreaks 75Lohi’s 75Natives 87Pasta Point 75Rip Tides 87Sultan’s 75Twin Peaks 87

surfing 18, 23, 40-4, 81, 4241, see also individual

locations, Surf Sitessurfing safaris 41, 43surgeonfish 156sweetlips 156

Ttap water 180taxes & refunds 172

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

189IN

DEX T-Y

taxis 178teashops 53, 67telephone services 14-15,

173-4Thaa Atoll 123-4, 126Thakurufaanu, Mohammed

63, 104, 137-8Thilafushi 74Thimarafushi 123Thinadhoo 127Thoddoo 100Thulhaadhoo 109Thulusdhoo 75thundu kunaa 165tiger sharks 35, 34time 14, 174tipping 172

toilets 174Tomb of Mohammed

Thakurufaanu 63tourism 161-2tourist information 174travellers cheques 172travel to/from Maldives

176-7travel within Maldives 177-8trevallies 155triggerfish 156-7turtles 35, 153, 34

UUgoofaaru 108Uligamu 104undholis 53, 165

Unesco sites 109, 113unicornfish 157Utheemu 104Utheemu Ganduvaru 104

VVaadhoo 127Vaavu Atoll 117, 120-1vaccinations 179vegan travellers 47vegetarian travellers 47Veymandhoo 123Villingili (Gaafu Alifu) 125Villingili (Male) 74visas 14, 174, 178visual arts 165volunteering 175

Wwater, drinking 48, 180water, fresh 162water sports 23whale sharks 35, 101, 152,

12, 35Whale Submarine 65whales 153wildlife 151-8women in Maldives 150women travellers 175work 175wrasse 158

Yyachts 177Yameen, Abdulla 134-5

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191

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415310th edition – October 2018ISBN 978 1 78657 168 7© Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 201810 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERTom MastersDreaming since he could walk of going to the most obscure places on earth, English-born Tom’s writing career has taken him all over the world, including North Korea, the Arctic, Congo and Siberia. After graduating with a degree in Russian literature from the University of London, his first writing job was with the St Petersburg Times. He went on to work at the BBC World Service in Lon-don, then as a freelance contributor to newspapers and magazines around the

world. He also spent several years working in television documentary production. Based in Berlin, his most recent projects include guides to the Russian Far East, Central Africa and Colombia. You can find him online at www.tommasters.net.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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