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Man-Made Fibers in the Future
FINIX Seminar
Herbert Sixta
Department of Bioproducts and Biosystems, Aalto University
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14 MtCottongrowth
stagnates
CELLULOSEGAP IN 2030
cellulosetextiles per capita
demand increase:
1.7kg /a
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Ellen MacArthur Foundation
of textiles landfilled or incinerated
73%
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Environmental Justice Foundation, [email protected]
16%global insecticidereleases
Cotton accounts for
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Environmental Justice Foundation, [email protected]
7000 lwater for onepair of jeans
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Opportunity:
Closed-Loop Man-Made Cellulose Fiber Process
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MELT
NOTMELTABLE
VISCOSECARBAMATE
DERIVATIVESOLUTION
How to make Cellulose Fibers?
LYOCELLLýein = dissolve
DIRECT DISSOLUTION
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Green solvent
100°
800°
25°
Ionic Liquidsare liquid saltsat T
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Sixta, H. et al (2018) unpublished
Challenges
Stable air-gap spinningHigh Filament
stretchingSoft, good handleHigh toughness
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Ioncell®
Fiber
Process
Textile fiber from Sustainably Grown Wood
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Ioncell®
Fiber
Process
Pre
tre
atm
en
t
Textile fiber from Textile Waste
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DISSOLUTION SPINNING, WASHING
EVAP-I EVAP-II
PULP
FIBRES
Recycled IL
IL / WATER
Solvent Recycling
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Elsayed S. et al. (2019) unpublished results
0 5 10 15 200
10
20
30
40
50
60
Ten
ac
ity
co
nd (
cN
/te
x)
Number of cycles
0% IL in spin bath
20% IL in spin bath
Viscose
TencelTM Lyocell
Fiber properties from recycle solvent
Recycling Rate Ionic Liquid (Lab)
>99%
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2016 2018
Fibers: Ioncell™-TeamAkino Kurosawa, MA FaCT
FashionPhoto: Sara Riikonen
Fibers: Ioncell™-TeamDesign: Anna-Mari
LeppisaariPhoto: Eeva Suorlahti
Tuula Pöyhönen
2014 2018
Fibers: Ioncell™-TeamDress design: Emma Saarnio
Textile Vesa Moilanen /Lehtikuva
Products from Wood Pulp
Fibers: Ioncell™-Team; Anna Semi MA FaCT Fashion
Sofia Ilmonen MA FaCT Fashion
2019
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Products from Recycled Textile Waste or Paper Waste
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Worn Jeans
On the occasion of President Macron’svisit August 2018H
asl
ing
er
S.
et
al.
Gre
en
Ch
em
., 2
01
9, 2
1,
55
98
Products from Recycled Jeans
New Scarf
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New Fibers from old JeansT2C (Söktas)
T2C (Reima)
Haslinger S. et al. Green Chem., 2019, 21, 5598
Products from Recycled Jeans
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PoConCoW: Postconsumer Cotton Waste
PreConCoW: Preconsumer Cotton Waste
0 20 40 60 800
20
40
60
CV, CMD Tire cord Tencel
COTTON Ioncell-Wood Pulp
Ioncell-PoConCoW Ioncell-PreConCoW
Ten
ac
ity (
cN
/te
x)
Toughness (MPa)
Properties of Ioncell® fibers from Pulp and Textile Waste
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Summary of Ioncell® Fibers
Ioncell® superior to commercial Cellulose fibers in mechanical
and other textile-related properties
Ioncell® upcyclesCotton Waste
Properties of Ioncell® fibers from cellulosic textile waste much
better than those of virginCotton fibers
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Ioncell® Pilot plant
Start-up fiber line: 1/2021
Pilot phase 1: 2021 – 2022
Pilot phase 2: 2023 – 2025
Strategy: joint process development with industrial partners
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Continuous fiber line,
closed-loop solvent
recycling and process
control
Fiber production capacity
1.5 kg / h
Ioncell® Pilot at Aalto Bioproduct Centre
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Thank you!
