March 2013

March 2013

■ SEALING SUBARUS ■ THE GEOMETRY OF STEERING ■ PRESERVING LIBERTY

TomorrowsTechnician.com

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CONTENTS

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THE REAL WORLD 8Mastering Three-Stage Paints and PearlsSome painters dread three-stage paints and pearls, butthere is a secret and a method of matching that worksevery time...and will reduce your comebacks. Capitalizeon these tips from head painter Tom Ferry.

UNDER THE HOOD 10Solving Subaru Sealing ProblemsAs a shop owner who specializes in the repair ofJapanese vehicles, John Volz shares some tips onSubaru engine service. In his article, Volz discusses oneof the most common problems with these vehicles —head gasket failure.

UNDERCOVER 22The Importance of Geometry in Steering DiagnosticsGary Goms highlights the three angles of steering —caster, camber and toe — and provides details on theirimportance to wheel alignment service.

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ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES

HOME OFFICE3550 Embassy Parkway Akron, Ohio 44333-8318330-670-1234FAX 330-670-0874www.babcox.com

PRESIDENTBill [email protected], ext. 217

SALESREPRESENTATIVES:

Roberto [email protected], ext. 233

Bobbie [email protected], ext. 238

Doug [email protected], ext. 255

Don Hemming [email protected], ext. 286

Sean Donohue [email protected] 330-670-1234, ext. 206

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Glenn [email protected] 330-670-1234, ext. 212

John Zick [email protected] 949-756-8835

Report Card: A Look at the Ford Atlas Concept 6

Industry Insight: Fuel Pump Diagnostics 20

Service Advisor: Maintaining Liberty 30

TT Toolbox 38

NASCAR Performance: Black Boxes 39

Book Report: The Complete Book of Camaro 40

TT Crossword 40

Tomorrow’s Technician (ISSN 1539-9532)(March 2013, Volume 12, Issue 2): Published eight times a year by Babcox Media, 3550 Embassy Parkway, Akron, OH 44333 U.S.A. Complimentary subscriptionsare available to qualified students and educators located at NATEF-certified automotive training institutions. Paid subscriptions are available for all others. Contact usat (330) 670-1234 to speak to a subscription services representative or FAX us at (330) 670-5335.

Editor: Edward Sunkin, ext. [email protected]

Managing Tim Fritz, ext. 218Editor: [email protected]

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EDITORIAL STAFF:Phone: 330-670-1234

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In January during the North AmericanInternational Auto Show (NAIAS) inDetroit, Ford unveiled its AtlasConcept to showcase the design,capability, fuel efficiency and smarttechnologies that will define futurepickup trucks.

“The Ford Atlas Concept previewsthe innovations that will transformwhat people expect from their pickup,”said Raj Nair, Ford group vice presi-dent, Global Product Development.

Nair said the Ford Atlas Concept isinspired by decades of listening tocustomers at the places they work andplay. The result is a purpose-drivendesign with prominent wheel arches,a wide stance and chiseled grille – allto reinforce its functional Built FordTough image.

Designers enhanced truck function-ality, while creating new advanced fea-tures. For example, multiple tie-downpoints are integrated within the cargo

box walls and loadfloor, along with 110-volt electrical outlets in the cargo box to chargepower tools. An integrated roof carry-ing system and hidden extendableramps give the truck unique function-ality for a variety of jobs.

The interior is themed with struc-tural styling cues and features thelatest thinking in comfort, utilityand refinement. Innovative, thin,lightweight seating in comfortableleather allows for extra legroom forrear passengers – along with inte-grated storage for smaller items.

The Ford Atlas Concept features anext-generation EcoBoost power-train, which introduces truck-enhanced Auto Start-Stop engineshutoff technology. Auto Start-Stopshuts off the engine when stopped intraffic to save fuel – and suspendsthe feature when the truck knows itis towing.

EcoBoost engines use gasolinedirect injection and tur-bocharging to deliver fuel-economy gains of up to 20%and reduction of CO2

emissions of up to 15%, comparedwith larger- displacement engines.

The Ford Atlas Concept goes furtherto save fuel through a combination ofactive aerodynamic elements thatreduce wind resistance. They include:

Active Grille Shutters: Automaticshutters behind the grille stay openwhen extra engine cooling is need-ed, such as during low-speed stop-and-go driving or while working inhot weather. The shutters automati-cally close to improve aerodynamicswhen cruising on the highway atsteady speeds.

Active Wheel Shutters: Automaticshutters in the wheels are hidden toimprove style at rest and low speeds,but automatically close at highwayspeeds to improve aerodynamics.Self-charging batteries use energyfrom the wheels’ motion to powerthe shutters.

Drop-Down Front Air Dam: Adrop-down front wind spoiler lowersat highway speeds to improveunderbody airflow. The air dam israised at low speeds to improveground clearance – helpful for off-roading.

For more on the Atlas Concept, visitwww.tomorrowstechnician.com. ■


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Some painters are so stumped by three-stage paints and pearls that they dreadthem and end up painting the entire sideof a car for just one panel. I’ve actuallyseen it happen!

The secret to success is to add white or red orwhatever color your three-stage is and add 7%solid basecoat to your first pearl coat. It stilllooks like a pearl coat, but you can actually blendit like a regular basecoat. You have to tweakthings here and there, but that comes with expe-rience.

Starting OutPhoto 1 shows my first step with a Subaru

Forester that I’m blending with a three-stagepearl white. We had taken the hood off this carduring a repair a month prior, so when the carcame back after another crash, I knew the hoodwould match. I start by using an old piece of 500grit to sand through the clearcoat and pearl coatand down to the base white that’s actually on this

Three-Stage Paints and PearlsSome painters dread three-stage paints and pearls, but there is a secret and a method of matching that works every time..and will reduce your comebacks.

Photo 1: How many panels would you include inthe three-stage white pearl paint time for thisjob? Some of you would probably include thehood and rear quarter, but that’s unnecessary.

Adapted from Tom Ferry’s article in

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car. You could also just work onwhere the base is featheredgedby the dent you’re repairing.

As we all know, there are sever-al base white options to choosefrom. But with three-stage pearls,you can’t determine which whitebase to choose from – it’s all aguessing game. In this instance,there are three to choose from: alighter one, a darker one and onethat’s more yellow. I always go forthe lighter-than-variance one.

After I sand down to the facto-ry white base, I use 1,000-grit and

polish the area. Now you have theexact factory white base in front ofyou so there’s no need to guess.Then, I tint my light base using myown “progressive dot” method.(Note: To view Tom’s ProgressiveDot Method technique, visit:http://bit.ly/YtUl0W)

It started out too dark, so I keptadding white to lighten it up andlet the dots dry until – bingo! – Igot one that matches.Now I have the bestmatch possible for thewhite base on thethree-stage pearl white.

In Photo 2, you cansee I’m going to blendmy white sealer, whitebase and pearlclearcoat in the smallarea of the front fender.There’s not much room,but it can be done.

First, prep the entirejob and tape off. Afteryou spray on your adhe-sion promoter over theareas to be blended

and it’s dry, tape off the rear door.Now spray the driver’s door andfront fender with white sealer,keeping it down where the grayprimer is (Photo 3). Feather it outon the edges, keeping as far awayfrom the hood as possible.

The SecretNow here’s the real blending

secret for all three-stage paints:mix up your pearl coat, then pouroff half into another cup. Take yourbase white and pour 7% of it intoone of the two pearl cups. Nowyou have a semi-opaque whitebase with pearl in it. You should beable to then take off the paperfrom the door and spray two coatsright over the white base area andallow the overspray to go onto thedoor and a little past the whitebase on the fender (Photo 3).

Be patient. If the door doesn’tstart blending in after three coats,you’ll need to add some morewhite base to your pearl. This iswhere practice makes perfect.Keep blending into the door andfender, going further and furtherby small, three-inch increments,keeping in mind that three coatsequals nine inches of blend. This ishow you create your blend: byadding white to your pearl base.And you still have the other half ofyour true pearl to spray.

When your blend looks good,

switch to the pearl base. Start byfogging it, each coat going pastthe pearl-tinted-with-white base. Ifyou don’t have a good blend withthe white-tinted pearl base, itwon’t work. The transition has tobe seamless. I usually put on threeto five coats of the final pearl coat,blending out further each time.There shouldn’t be a halo effect.After your blend looks good, painton the clearcoat and you’re goodto go. ■

Tom Ferry is the head painter atKetchikan Autobody and Glass inKetchikan, Alaska. He can bereached at [email protected].

TomorrowsTechnician.com 9

Photo 2. This photo showswhere I start my white sealer. Itape the area so the sealer com-pletely stays away from the topof the fender and the rear door.At this stage, I’ll take the paperoff the door and put on a couplecoats of solid base.

Photo 3. I’ve put on white sealer andcoats of solid white base before start-ing to blend out my tinted pearlbase.

Photo 4. This is about 85 percentblended. Just a couple more coats of100 percent pearl coat and it’s readyfor clear.

YOU CAN SEE HERE HOWCLOSE I KEEP THE PRIMER TOAREAS I’VE USED FILLER ON.

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As a shop owner who specializes inthe repair of Japanese vehicles, Ithought I’d share some tips onSubarus. And hopefully one day,after serving in the automotive repair

industry, you’ll be able to pass on some of yourknowledge and vehicle repair experiences withthe next generation of technicians.

I started my Subaru experience in 1979 work-ing at a Subaru/Mazda dealership in SouthernCalifornia. I can assure you that in 1979 Subaruwas not the most sought after car by con-sumers. For example, we sold about 125 newMazdas each month, but approximately only10-15 Subarus per month. Fast-forward 34

years and it’s quite a different landscape forSubaru, which posted sales of almost30,000 vehicles in May 2012, up 48% overthe previous year’s number.

Subarus, like many other nameplates,have common problems, one of which I’ll

discuss in this article. Head gasket failure hasbeen something Subaru has struggled with tosome extent since the 1980s. There are manythoughts as to why head gasket failure on

Adapted from John Volz’s article in

Sealing Problems

Solving

Author John Volz is the owner of Volz Bros.Automotive Repair, Grass Valley, CA.

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Subaru has continued. My theory isthat there is a horizontallyopposed engine with an aluminumblock and aluminum cylinderheads, two metals that tend tomove around more than the tradi-tional cast-iron block and alu-minum heads found on mostJapanese cars. A poorly designedhead gasket material also fuels theproblem.

There are some other issues thatrelate to premature head gasketfailure. Excessive corrosion has ledSubaru to add more ground strapsto the car on the later models. Thediscovery of voltage in the coolingsystem is believed to contribute togaskets getting corroded and fail-ing. Although Subaru did have aservice campaign that helped pay

for the repairs for some Subaruowners, the program has prettymuch gone by the wayside at thispoint.

The head gasket failures arefound in a couple of different con-figurations, the most common ofwhich is the external oil leaks atthe back of the cylinder head, gen-erally most prevalent on the lefthead or driver’s side.

The second type is the externalcoolant leak, the coolant leak mostcommon on the driver’s side, aswell. Generally, it starts with the oilleaks, then progresses to thecoolant leaking, too. I consider theoil leaks to be of concern, butwhen we see coolant leaking, theneed for repair is more urgent. Wegenerally inspect the heads for theleaks, and then discuss with ourcustomer the severity of the leaks.In many cases, you can monitor theleaks for a period of time beforethe repairs are classified necessaryor urgent.

The final type of failure is theinternal gasket failure that will pro-duce the classic coolant loss andoverheating. We see many shopstry a variety of repairs, including

thermostat, radiator and waterpump replacement, only to leavethe customer with money spent onrepair bills that didn’t solve theproblem.

The best way to check for aninternal head gasket failure on aSubaru is to check for hydrocar-bons in the cooling system. Youcan carefully insert the probe fromyour smog machine in the radiator(don’t let the coolant touch theprobe). The reading will be moreaccurate with the engine fullywarmed up. If the HC levels areabove 10 ppm, the head gasketsare leaking internally into the cool-ing system.

Subaru changed the design of itshead gaskets around 2003, anddesigned its own coolant and specialadditive to help with the problem.

The final topic I would like todiscuss before we get into therepair is cost and how to approachthe job. We’ve performed thisrepair more than 400 times, andalthough each job is unique, thecost for this job varies, dependingon how the job is approached andthe area of the country where thejob is being done. I’ve heard

SUBARU EXCESSIVE A/C SYSTEM PRESSURESIf you experience a vehiclewith excessive A/C systempressures, rule out these quickand easy checks before makingany component replacements.Verify that there are no

obstructions to air flowthrough the condenser and/orradiator, and look in betweenthem for debris, which may beeasily overlooked.In addition, make sure to con-

firm that both the main andsub-fans are rotating in theproper direction and pulling airthrough the condenser andradiator toward the engine. Ifthere were previous repairsthat required removal of thefans, the wiring in the connec-tors may have becomeswapped during re-assembly,especially if the fan motor har-ness connectors didn’t comeapart easily. There have beencases where this simple checkwas overlooked, resulting inunnecessary repairs.Courtesy of Mitchell 1.


quotes of $1,200–$3,200. I alsohear people trying to do the repairwithout taking the engine out ofthe car, which, in my opinion, isnot the correct way. (We will dis-cuss the reasons as we proceedwith the repair.)

I would guess that 20% of thehead gasket jobs we perform weredone at another shop not that longago — long enough to get out ofwarranty, but not long enough towarrant the cost of the “discount-ed repair.” We also see manyshops, including the dealer, try tojust repair one side, only to havethe other side fail within a fewmonths.

The other issues we see arewhen the customer gets the headgasket replaced, only to haveother seals leak soon afterward,that should have been replaced inthe first place. This repair shouldnot be approached with the mind-set of “how cheap can it bedone?” but rather, “what’s thebest way to efficiently repair thevehicle so the job will last?” and“let’s deal with all possible issuesthat are somewhat related at thesame time.” That said, most jobsrequire head gaskets, a waterpump, a timing belt, drive belts,thermostat, idler pulleys, a timingbelt tensioner, tune-related partsand machine shop cost. In ourarea, $2,220–$2,500 is the normalprice range.

Digging Into the JobThe Subaru is a 2002 Outback

with 109,982 miles. It has exces-sive oil leaks from the driver’s sidehead gasket and some from thepassenger’s side. The vehicle hadbeen repaired under warranty bythe dealer at about 65,000 miles,

and most likely the repairs weredone without taking the engineout with probably only one headgasket being replaced. To com-plete the repair, follow these steps:

1. Disconnect and remove thebattery (this allows for a proper

cleaning of the battery box), drainall fluids and remove four exhaustflange bolts. I generally take thewhole front pipe off the car. Thisallows for better clearance andreduces the chance of damagingthe oxygen sensor wires.

2. Remove the lower bell-hous-ing bolts and motor mount bolts.Lower the car back down andremove the radiator, leaving thefans connected. Remove the air fil-ter box and all intake boots.

3. Remove the upper bell-hous-ing bolts, torque the convertorbolts (auto trans.) and disconnectthe two-wire harness plugs on thepassenger’s side. On the driver’sside, remove the heater hoses, disconnect the two fuel hoses andremove the evap hose.

4. From the front of the engine,disconnect the A/C compressorfrom the mount and carefully hangit near the battery box. Removethe alternator completely from thecar, remove the P/S pump from the


Photo 1

“What’s the best way to efficientlyrepair the vehicle so the job will last?”

“Let’s deal with all possible issues thatare somewhat related at the sametime.”


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mount, leave the hoses connectedand hang them on the passen-ger’s side. See Photo 1 andPhoto 2. The engine can general-ly be out of the car in about 30-40minutes. See Photo 3.

5. Remove the intake manifold,timing covers,timing belt andvalve cover gas-kets. Clean allthe debris fromthe exterior ofthe block beforeremoving thecylinder heads.See Photo 4.

6. Remove thecylinder heads,and spend timeto properly cleanthem and checkthem for warp-ing or pitting. Ican’t stress

enough the importance of thisphase — the surface needs to bethoroughly cleaned. Many shopsor dealerships use a “wheel” toclean the surface.

This may be acceptable onsome vehicles, but with the head


Photo 3

Photo 2


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gasket issue being so common-place on Subarus, my opinion isthat the leftover swirl marks canaffect the integrity of the headgasket’s ability to seal once it’s re-assembled.

We’ve noticed on the vehicleson which we’re replacing gasketsthat were previously done atanother shop that they tend tohave the swirl marks on both theblock and the cylinder heads. Idon’t suspect that the swirls willcause an immediate failure, but,over time, they can contribute topremature failure.

7. Use a razor blade to take thelarger pieces of the old gasket off,then use a sanding block toremove the remaining debris toget a clean surface. We start with220-grit, then we progress to 400and 600 for the final cleanup. Weuse 0.002” as the criteria for re-machining. I also consider if theheads have been off before and ifthere are swirl marks from usingthe wheel, I generally re-machinethe heads even though there maynot be any significant warpage.This step will add some time sinceyou’ll need to send it to the

machine shop. Our localauto parts store’smachine shop providesa turnaround time ofabout an hour on a pairof Subaru heads for re-machining.

8. While the headsare at the machine shop,we focus on the blocksurface, using the blocksander starting with220-grit as stated earli-er, and finishing with the600-grit. Begin the task

Photo 4

Photo 5



of working the surface to remove all dirt and leftovergasket material, taking your time to get the surface asclean as possible. This is also a good time to cleanthe engine cross-member, where much of the oil accu-mulates. Also, don’t forget the plastic gravel shield —another area for oil to accumulate.

9. Next, we focus on the front of the engine.Remove the oil pump and re-seal it, and replace thefront crank seal.

10. Once the cylinder heads are back from the

machine shop (see Photo 5), install them with thenew head gaskets, and install new cam seals. Followthe head torque sequence.

(Note: 2005 and later models may require newhead bolts.)

11. Check the front idler pulleys for roughness.There is one cogged pulley and two smooth pulleys.If the bearings feel rough, I would replace them. Wesee quite a few cars come in that had the head gas-

kets replaced develop a bearingnoise in the front engine area. It’s alot more affordable to replace themwhile the engine is apart.

12. Inspect the tensioner. You’llgenerally see some wetness near thehydraulic area; replace it while it’s allapart.

13. Install the new water pump,thermostat and timing belt. The tim-ing belt interval on this generationSubaru is 105,000 miles, so if it’sanywhere close to its cycle, changeit. Then re-install the timing coversand closely inspect the rubber seals.If any oil has leaked from the oilpump area, chances are the seals willbe swollen and won’t fit properly.Note: We also check the PCV systemto make sure all hoses are sealingand are clear. Also be sure to installnew spark plugs (many will requirenew plug wires if they’ve been con-taminated with oil).

14. It’s now time to re-install theengine. See Photo 6.

Once it’s installed, add fluids, andthen unplug the coil wire and crankthe engine until you have oil pres-sure. After you have oil pressure,connect the coil wire and start thecar. With the battery being discon-nected, the computer will need togo through re-learn. We’ve foundthat if you let the car idle, it willaccomplish this much faster, generallyin 5-10 minutes. Avoid touching thethrottle to help the process.

While the car is going through re-learn, wait for the fans to cycle.There are two areas to closelyinspect. One is the power steeringpump O-ring where the reservoirhose connects to the pump.Movement from removing the engine



can cause the fitting to start leaking soon after therepair. I generally replace the O-ring while the engineis being re-installed.

The other area to inspect is where the A/C lines con-nect to the compressor, which is also subject to leakingafter the repair. We generally evacuate, replace O-ringsand recharge with dye as part of our job.

Check Your WorkOnce the car is warmed up and all fluids have been

topped up, I take the car on a road test of about 25miles. This generally ensures that the monitors haveall run and that any issues can be identified beforethe car is returned to the customer.

Part of the road test includes a trip to the car wash.The car is then brought back to the shop, where theinside of the front window is washed and the car isvacuumed.

The car is then allowed to cool down for one lastfluid check, and we then check for any softwareupdates from Subaru and re-flash with our factorytool.

Living in a rural area that receives snow in the win-ter months, Subaru is the choice of many car ownersin our area.

With Subaru owners being loyal to the brand, having the skills to repair their cars right the first timewill also build a loyal customer following — no matterif you work in an independent repair shop or a dealership. ■

Opening art courtesy of CarGurus.com.


Photo 6



The most common diagnosticprocedures for fuel pumps inthe past were analog andhands on. Most fuel pump-related problems could be

solved with a pressure gauge and volt-meter. Today, the scan tool is the mostimportant tool when diagnosing a fuelsupply problem.

On early vehicles, the fuel pump wasenergized when the key was turned onand a vacuum-operated diaphragm regulated fuel pressure. Today, inputfrom at least two modules and varioussensors that are networked on a high-speed serial data bus is required for afuel pump to operate. While this maysound like it would complicate the diagnostic process, it actually simplifiesdiagnostics and can save you fromunnecessarily dropping a fuel tank.

With a scan tool, it’s possible to verifyif the modules controlling the fuel pumpare receiving the correct data like oilpressure, crank position and key posi-tion. Some late-model vehicles haveeven turned the fuel pump into its ownmodule or node on the high-speed serial data bus. The module may sharedata like the fuel level and tank pressure withthe instrument cluster module and the ECM.

What this also means is that this data can bemonitored with a scan tool. If the serial databus is unable to communicate with certain mod-ules like the theft deterrent system or even theBody Control Module (BCM), it could cause thefuel pump to shut down.

Most late-model vehicles have return-lessfuel systems. Instead of using engine vacuum toa pressure regulator under the hood, the sys-tem uses engine data and varies the speed of

the pump to meet fuel requirements. The pumpis energized with pulse-width modulated volt-age. This means that if you connect your volt-meter to the fuel pump circuit, the readings willbounce around instead of being a constantvoltage.

A scope is required to graph the amperageand voltage. These systems have differentmodes for start, acceleration, deceleration andfuel cut off. On some vehicles, these modes canbe observed on an enhanced or factory scantool as part of the Mode 6 Data.

Scan with a PlanFuel Pump Diagnostics Using a Scan ToolBy Andrew Markel, editor of

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Performing DiagnosticsThe most common customer complaints when it

comes to fuel pumps are a no-start condition, inter-mittent no-start condition or even hard starting. Thefirst step in any diagnostic process is to perform avisual inspection of the vehicle.

Next, verify the customer’s complaint. Many diag-noses go wrong because the technician fails to verifythe customer’s concern. If the customer says it doesnot run, make sure it will not start and run.

Forget your “noid” lights on most modern vehicles.This low-cost tool worked well on simple vehicles, but with modern vehicles it can lead you down adiagnostic black hole.

If the vehicle has Gasoline Direct Injection (GDI),there is no way you could even access the injectors toinstall a noid light. If you do feel compelled to provethe injectors are pulsing, try using a scope.

Forget the fuel pressure gauge at this point in thediagnostic process. Even if there is pressure at thefuel rail, this information is of little use on newer vehicles without having access to the parameters.Some port fuel injection systems and all GDI systemshave pressure sensors that can be observed with ascan tool. Also, GDI-equipped Asian and Europeanmodels do not have ports to attach the gauge.

After the visual inspection and verifying the cus-tomer’s complaint, it’s time to connect the scan tool.First, pull the codes and make sure the modules arecommunicating on their communication buses. Somelow-end generic tools may not be able to talk to allthe modules. This is where an enhanced or factoryscan tool comes into its own.

Many enhanced or factory scan tools can perform a“health check” that can pull codes and parametersfrom the modules on the vehicle with just one pressor click. Some scan tools have automated tests thatcan bi-directionally control components to automati-cally confirm operation.

With the codes pulled, you can come up withdiagnostic strategies and further tests to resolve theno-start condition. Service information is just as critical of a tool as a pressure gauge.

Every fuel system has a set of parameters that mustbe set in order for the pump to be energized. Forsome systems, this may include a crank sensor signal,oil pressure and maybe a check with the vehicle theftdeterrent module.

If the vehicle has any “loss of communication”codes like U1000, resolve those problems first beforediagnosing or replacing the fuel pump. While thesecodes may seem like they have nothing to do with thefuel pump, often a dead module or short in the serialbus can result in a no-start condition.

After you’ve performed the checks with your scantool and have confirmed with the service informationthat it could be the fuel pump causing the no-startcondition, you can carry out the physical tests to confirm the condition of the fuel pump. ■


On the Volkswagen 3.0L V6 TFSI engine, thepressure from the high-pressure fuel pump ismonitored by the Powertrain Control Module(PCM) through a sensor and can be modulatedby changing the volume of fuel entering thepump inlet. While specific pressures vary amongdifferent vehicle applications, most high-pressurepumps are capable of producing at least 2,000psi of fuel pressure.

Go to www.underhoodservice.com and use thesearch function to obtain more fuel-system-relatedtechnical articles.

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When many of your shop instructors like me started our careers in the wheel alignmenttrade, we inevitably experienced a vehicle that would come back with steering quali-ty complaints or unevenly worn tires after having had the caster, camber and toeangle adjusted to specification.

Tire casing problems aside, the fault would nearly always befound in defective steering geometry caused by a bent steering knuckleassembly. Bent steering knuckle assemblies are easy to ignore simplybecause they do require extra time and effort to measure and evaluatein today’s fast-paced undercar service market.

Nevertheless, the symptoms of bent steering knuckles are easyto spot, especially if we do a thorough pre-alignment inspec-tion.

THREE ANGLES OF STEERINGLet’s begin with a recap of caster, camber and

toe angles. Positive caster angle is best illustrated by the rear-

ward tilt of the steering fork on a bicycle. Positivecaster obviously places the front wheel aheadof its pivot point and most vehicles aredesigned with positive caster angle.

In contrast, negative caster angle isbest illustrated by the casters on arolling toolbox trailing their pivotpoints. When weight is applied tothe two front wheels of a vehicle,positive or negative caster forcesthe front wheels to a centered posi-tion. Caster angle, therefore, helpsreduce steering wander or the needto constantly steer the vehicle.

Camber is the vertical position ofthe wheels in relation to the road sur-face. Negative camber results whenthe tops of the two front wheels tiltinward toward the chassis centerline.

Positive camber results when the topsof the wheels tilt outward from the chassis

Adapted from Gary Goms’ article in

Theof

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centerline. Positive camber works in conjunction with king pin or steering axis inclination (SAI) to reducesteering effort. On older vehicles with individually replaceable wheel bearings, positive camber places thevehicle weight squarely on the larger inner wheel bearing.

Toe is the most critical tire-wearing angle. Wheels pointed inward from the centerline are “toed” in,wheels pointed outward from centerline are “toed” out. A slight amount of toe-in is required to prevent thefront wheels from following ruts or contours in the road. Slight amounts of toe-in also compensate for flexingand wear in the tie rods and tie rod ends, as well as for minor changes in suspension height and geometry.

SAI AND STEERING RADIUS Two steering geometry angles, SAI and steering radius, are built into the

steering knuckle and are, therefore, non-adjustable. In the real world,defects in SAI and steering radius often go unnoticed if the vehicle is

driven primarily on four-lane, interstate-style highways. On theother hand, if the vehicle is primarily driven through many turns

on city streets, defects in SAI and steering radius might showup immediately.

The upper ball joint or strut support bearing on a frontsuspension is closer to the chassis centerline than the

lower ball joint. An imaginary line drawn through theupper strut support bearing or ball joint and lower balljoint should theoretically intersect with the centerlineof the tire at the point of road contact. See Photo 1.

SAI consequently allows the wheel to pivot on itscenterline. If the SAI is incorrect, the tires begin toswing in a radius around this theoretical pivotpoint. Incorrect SAI caused by bent struts, bentspindles or excessively offset wheels will result in


in

Photo 1: SAI is easy to understand if an imaginary line isdrawn through the upper and lower ball joints on this four-wheel-drive front axle.


greater steering effort and accelerated suspension system wear. SeePhoto 2.

SAI also tends to return the front wheels to center because, whencombined with caster angle, SAI tends to apply more weight on theinside front wheel by lifting the chassis an inch or two. At center, SAIacts in combination with the caster angle to reach equilibrium onboth wheels. Again, SAI combines with caster angle to reduce steering wander.

Last, SAI and caster angle generally increase the positive camberangle of the inside tire and decreases positive camber angle of theoutside tire during a turn. This camber change counteracts the ten-dency of the tire tread to lift from the road surface during a turn.

THE ACKERMAN EFFECTBecause the inside wheel turns through a shorter radius than the out-

side wheel, the steering system must change from toe-in to toe-out toreduce tire scrub when navigating a sharp corner. The portion of steeringknuckle responsible for turning the inner wheel through a sharper turningradius is the steering arm, which connects the tie rod end to the steering

Photo 2: Although this suspension is essentially a “coil-over”design, it still follows the same rules of steering geometrydesign.


25 centric tt 1/29/15 8:53 AM Page 25

knuckle. See Photos 3 and 4.The angle of the steering arm

intersects the vehicle centerline atapproximately the length of thevehicle’s wheelbase. The angle ofthe steering arms allows the rearwheels to track more closely withthe front when turning a corner.

The actual process of going fromtoe-in (or toe zero) to toe-out whennavigating a turn is known as theAckerman Effect, which causes theinner front wheel to toe out abouttwo degrees more than the outerfront wheel on a 20-degree turningradius. See Photo 5.

The Ackerman Effect, like mostalignment angles, is always acompromise between differentdriving conditions.

A NASCAR car, for example,might have very little Ackermanangle because the car is driventhrough long, sweeping curves,often at a slight drift angle. In thiscase, two degrees of Ackermanwould increase tire wear and nega-tively affect the driver’s control ofthe vehicle. Most NASCAR vehiclesfeature a slotted steering arm thatallows Ackerman angle to be adjust-ed on each steering arm to meettrack conditions.

At the other extreme, a metro-


Photo 4: The angle of the steer-ing arm on front-steer vehiclesshould intersect with the vehiclecenterline in front of the vehicleat about the length of the vehi-cle’s wheelbase.

Photo 3: An imaginary linedrawn from the center of therear axle through the tie rodend should closely intersectwith the steering knuckle pivotpoint.

Photo 5: TheAckermanEffectbecomes veryapparent oncethe vehicle isplaced on alift with thefront wheelsturned to fulllock.


27 waterloo tt 1/29/15 8:53 AM Page 27

area delivery van steering around 90-degree street corners and into veryconfined turn-around areas wouldneed at least two degrees differentialin Ackerman angle to make preciseturns and reduce front tire wear. Ifour prototype delivery van didn’thave a sufficient Ackerman angle, thevehicle would tend to “push” goingaround a sharp corner, which wouldresult in poor steering response andaccelerated tire wear.

GETTING TIREDWhile space doesn’t allow a com-

plete discussion of tire wear diagnos-tics, keep in mind that the old bias-ply designs of the ’60s produced veryhigh rolling friction and were verysensitive to incorrect camber and toeangles. The bias-ply belted tires ofthe 1970s and ’80s were improveddesigns, but often produced inner ribwear and other tire wear anomalieswhen mated with steering geome-tries designed for bias-ply tires.Current passenger tire designs gener-ally use a very flexible sidewall andfirm tread belt. Flexible sidewallstend to make the tire less sensitive tothe negative camber and high casterangles used in modern steeringgeometries.

Negative camber angles are usedin modern steering geometry

because they greatly increase thetread contact pattern at high corner-ing speeds. Increased caster anglecomplements this effect and, thus,improves steering quality andresponse. Because modern suspen-sion systems are more stable andproduce much less toe variation inresponse to changes in suspensionheight, toe angles themselves havebeen reduced in most cases.

Always inspect tire pressure beforeroad testing, as well as the tires formatching casing design, size andtread pattern. Test for loose steeringcomponents by rocking the steeringwheel key-on, engine off. Badly wornsteering shaft couplers and tie rodends will generally make a knockingsound. The steering should bechecked hands-off when starting theengine. If the steering wheel rocks asthe engine starts, the pressure meter-ing system in the power steeringgear might be defective.

Next, turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock several times with the enginerunning. The steering responseshould be smooth and noise-free.The vehicle’s side-to-side ride heightshould also change equally. If it does-n’t, suspect a bent steering knuckleor strut. Once moving, lightly tap thebrake pedal to ensure that the brakecalipers are releasing correctly. If a

momentary steering pull develops,it’s likely that a caliper is sticking. SeePhoto 6.

If a large parking lot is available,turn the vehicle in a full-lock positionin both directions. If the steeringgeometry is correct, the turningradius should be nearly equal inboth directions.

If the vehicle fails this test, a thorough diagnosis of this faultshould be done on a modern, four-point alignment machine. Keep inmind that not only SAI and steeringradius angles should be correct, butthe side-to-side wheel offsets shouldbe correct and the thrust line of therear axle should align correctly withvehicle centerline. Only when alldimensions and alignment angles arecorrect will the tires wear evenly andthe vehicle steer correctly. ■


KEY WORDS AND PHRASESAfter reading this article, you should be able to definethe following:

Ackerman Effect CamberCasterSAIToeTurning Radius

Photo 6: Notice that the innertread rib of this tire isn’t contact-ing the floor. The wear on the innerrib could be caused by excessivenegative camber or toe angle.

NASCAR vehicles require littleAckerman angle due to long,sweeping curves on a track.


29 gmb tt 1/29/15 8:54 AM Page 29


In 2002, the Jeep Liberty was thefirst Jeep to use the two newChrysler-developed Power-Techengines — the 2.4L straight-4,(which was eliminated in

2006), and the 210 hp 3.7L V6.The 2.4L I4 PowerTech is a

Neon engine variant based onthe Chrysler engine that wasdesigned originally for theDodge and Plymouth Neon com-pact car. The naturally aspirated 2.4L4-cylinder PowerTech engine provided150 hp (110 kW) and 165 lb.-ft.(224 Nm).

In its short life, the enginewas available in the 2002-’06Jeep Liberty (first generation), aswell as the 2004-’06 JeepWrangler, but was discontinuedwhen Jeep introduced the Compassand Patriot small crossovers.

While those two crossovers alsoreceived a 2.4L I4 as a base engine,these were of the Global EngineManufacturing Alliance (GEMA) joint-ventureengine architecture and should not be confusedwith the Neon/ PowerTech engine of the samedisplacement.

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Although the 2.4L PowerTechengine was only available for a relatively short time, the engine isconsidered very reliable with nomajor problems associated with it.

2.4L PowerTech I4 Specs The 2.4L PowerTech is a double

overhead camshaft with hydrauliclifters and four valves per cylinderdesign. The engine is free-wheel-ing, meaning it has provisions forpiston-to-valve clearance.However, valve-to-valve interfer-ence can occur if the camshafts arerotated independently. Displacement: 144.0 CID (2,360 cc)Stroke: 3.82” (97 mm)Bore: 3.46” (88 mm)Power: 150 hp (110 kW)

Getting Your Timing DownRecommended timing belt

replacement for the PowerTech

2.4L engine used inthe JeepLiberty/Wrangler is120,000 miles. So, ifyou are seeing someof these vehicles inthe workplace withthat kind of mileage,it might be a goodidea to talk to yourcustomer on schedul-ing a timing beltreplacement. The fol-lowing steps provideinformation onremoval and replace-ment of the 2.4L I4timing belt.

Steps for TimingBelt Replacement

1. Remove the aircleaner upper cover,housing and clean airtube.

2. Raise the vehicleon a hoist.

3. Remove theaccessory drive belts.

4. Remove the crankshaft vibra-tion dampener.

5. Remove the airconditioner/generator belt tension-er and pulley assembly.

6. Remove the timing belt lowerfront cover bolts and the cover.

7. Lower the vehicle.8. Remove the bolts attaching

the timing belt upper front coverand remove that cover.

Note: For more on removingcomponents mentioned in steps 4-8, refer to a 2003 Chrysler ServiceGuide.

9. Before removal of the timingbelt, rotate the crankshaft until theTDC mark on the oil pump housingaligns with the TDC mark on thecrankshaft sprocket (trailing edgeof sprocket tooth). See Figure 1.

Note: The crankshaft sprocketTDC mark is located on the trailingedge of the sprocket tooth. Failureto align the trailing edge of thesprocket tooth to the TDC mark onthe oil pump housing will causethe camshaft timing marks to bemisaligned.

10. Install a 6 mm Allen wrench


Caution: When align-ing crankshaft andcamshaft timingmarks, always rotatethe engine from thecrankshaft. Thecamshaft should notbe rotated after thetiming belt is removedbecause damage to thevalve componentscould occur. And,always align the timing marks beforeremoving the timingbelt.

Figure 1


into the belt tensioner. Before rotating the tensioner,insert the long end of a 1/8” or 3 mm Allen wrenchinto the pinhole on the front of the tensioner. SeeFigure 2.

While rotating the tensioner clockwise, push inlightly on the tool until it slides into the lockinghole.

11. Remove the timing belt.

Timing Belt Installation 1. Set the crankshaft sprocket to TDC by aligning

the sprocket with the arrow on the oil pumphousing.

2. Set the crankshaft timing marks so that theexhaust camshaft sprocket is half of a notchbelow the intake camshaft sprocket.

3. Install the timing belt. Starting at the crank-shaft, go around the water pump sprocket, idlerpulley and camshaft sprockets and then aroundthe tensioner.

4. Move the exhaust camshaft sprocket counter-clockwise to align the marks and to take up beltslack.

5. Insert a 6 mm Allen wrench into the hexagon


Figure 2


opening located on the top plateof the belt tensioner pulley.Rotate the top plate counter-clockwise. The tensioner pulleywill move against the belt and thetensioner setting notch will even-tually start to move clockwise.Watching the movement of thesetting notch, continue rotatingthe top plate counterclockwiseuntil the setting notch is alignedwith the spring tang. Using theAllen wrench to prevent the topplate from moving, torque thetensioner lock nut to 22 ft.-lbs.(30 Nm). The setting notch andspring tang should remainaligned after the lock nut istorqued.


Note: Repositioningthe crankshaft to theTDC position must bedone only during theclockwise rotationmovement. If TDC ismissed, rotate a fur-ther two revolutionsuntil TDC is achieved.Do not rotate crank-shaft counterclock-wise as this will makeverification of propertensioner settingimpossible.

Figure 3

Camshaft Bearing Cap Identification


6. Remove the Allen wrench andtorque wrench.

7. Once the timing belt hasbeen installed and the tensioneradjusted, rotate the crankshaftclockwise two complete revolu-tions manually for seating the belt,until the crankshaft is repositionedat the TDC position. Verify that thecrankshaft and the crankshaft tim-ing marks are in proper position.

8. Check to see if the springtang is within the tolerance win-dow. If so, the installation processis complete and nothing further isrequired. If the spring tang is notwithin the tolerance window,repeat steps 5 through 7.

9. Install the timing belt frontcovers and bolts.

10. Install the air conditioning/generator belt tensioner and pulley.

11. Install the crankshaft vibra-tion dampener.

12. Install the accessory drivebelts.

13. Install the drive belt splashshield.

14. Install the air cleaner housing,upper cover and clean air tube.

Other Liberty IssuesIn 2008, Chrysler revised its 2.4L

cylinder head bolt re-torque proce-dure. The information supersedesthe previous technical bulletin,dated March 25, 2005. The previ-ous bulletin should be removedfrom your files.

The latest bulletin applies tovehicles equipped with a 2.4Lengine built between Feb. 1, 2004and April 5, 2005.

Whenever re-torqueing thecylinder head bolt(s), be sure tofollow the torque sequence as out-lined below. If there are no exter-nal signs of damage to any parts,

attempt the procedure belowbefore replacing a cylinder head,cylinder head bolts or cylinderhead gasket.

1. Using a 6” wobble plusextension friction ball and shallowsocket, and following the torquesequence, loosen one bolt at atime to 0 torque and then torque


Camshaft Bearing Cap


that same head bolt to 60 ft.-lbs.See Figure 3.

2. Repeat step 4 for everyhead bolt, one bolt at a time insequence.

3. Verify that each head bolt isat 60 ft.-lbs. before performingthe next steps.

4. After all the head bolts havebeen verified to be torqued to 60ft.-lbs., follow the torquesequence and turn the head boltsan additional 90° (1/4 turn).

5. Following the appropriateprocedures to install the cylinderhead cover.

Some of the technical informa-tion above was provided by theAutomotive PartsRemanufacturers Association(APRA). More information andtechnical bulletins on vehiclesequipped with a 150-hp 4-cylin-der engine are available throughAPRA; call 703-968-2772 or visitwww.AutoBulletins.com.

Transmission Progress In 2005, the Jeep Liberty and

Jeep Wrangler were upgradedwith a NSG 370 six-speed manualtransmission, replacing two five-speed manual transmissions pre-viously used in these applications— the NV1500 and the NV3550— in an effort to reduce cost andcomplexity.

The new transmission is a

member of the six-speed NSG370 family, similar to the oneused in the Chrysler Crossfire —the first six-speed for the Chryslerbrand. The NSG six-speed manualtransmission provides a 4.46:1first-gear ratio, versus the 3.85:1and 4.04:1 ratios of the five-speed transmissions it replaces,for improved launch and traction.

Jeep said that the NSG 370six-speed manual transmissionprovides optimal shift quality,improved quietness and highquality.

A new dual-ratio transmissionshift-tower system allows packag-ing of the six-speed shift patternwithin the existing Jeep vehicles,and it is tuned for optimized shiftquality. For smooth operation,the first and second gears havetriple-cone synchronization, thethird and fourth gears featuredouble-cone, and the fifth andsixth gears single-cone synchro-nization.

Chrysler engineers also saidthe hard-finished gears allow forquiet operation, and the two-piece aluminum case with inte-grated clutch housing assurespowertrain stiffness and lightweight. The new first-gear ratio,combined with six-speed stepspread, allows optimization ofaxle ratios for fuel economy andperformance. ■

Source: Chrysler Group LLC.



Tomorrow’s Technician delivers to you more technical and scholastic contentthan ever before. We’ve designed our website to make it easier to search contenton more than 300 technical and educational articles and more than 100 student-related columns and news briefs to help you stay informed on repairing today’s andtomorrow’s vehicles.

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Track Talk

In 1992, General Motors waslooking for ways to decreasethe number of lower leginjuries to their Indy Car driv-ers. In their research, theywere lacking one piece oftechnology to help them dothis: a way to measure theforce drivers were subjected toin crashes.

They did, however, have adevice placed in shipments ofexpensive equipment goingoversees to determine how thecargo was being handled, andtrack when it was mishandledand by whom. With a fewtweaks, such as an increasedrange of measurement, thecompany realized these devicescould be placed in cars tomeasure the impact of a crash.

That was the beginning ofthe Incident Data Recorder(IDR), or “black box,” inautomobile racing.

Today, NASCAR supplieseach of the cars in its threenational racing series with an

updated version of thatrecorder. In the event of acrash, big or small, NASCARofficials are able to retrieve thedata and details of the crash,including the rate of decelera-tion when the car hits a barrier.

According to Tom Gideon,senior director of safety,research and development forNASCAR, the incident datarecorder has not failed to collect information on acrash yet.

“From 2002 to now, we’verecorded over 6,000 incidentsin the national series,” hesaid. “All the vehicles in ournational series — whichinclude NASCAR Sprint Cup,Nationwide and CampingWorld Series racecars andtrucks — are required to havea crash recorder.”

Since 2002, the accidentdata recorders have riddenalong with NASCAR drivers.Teams are responsible onlyfor the aluminum bracket

that holdsthe recorderinto place inthat car.Before eachrace, a teamof field inves-tigatorsplaces arecorder intothat bracket.Once a magnetic sensorinside the box detects it’sbeen placed into the car, itgoes into a state of readiness.

Because the units don’t havean on/off switch, the magnetsensor helps to preserve thebattery when they aren’t in acar. During a race, the devicemeasures the acceleration ordeceleration of the car 10,000times per second. NASCARofficials remove the IDRs fromthe car after each race, record-ing information from those incars involved in wrecks.

Once NASCAR extracts thedata from a crash, the numbersare then released to the teamwhose car held the recorder.

Teams use thisinformation todetermine howhard the car washit, and whetherthe impact wasbig enough tocause damage tothe seat andrestraints. If so,the seat —which can costup to $12,000— will be fullyinspected beforebeing replaced

or repaired.NASCAR also uses these

devices to re-enact actualcrashes to improve safety andto test new developments.Technicians are able to takethe numbers from a wreckand, using a hydraulic cylin-der and dummy model, exam-ine the effects on the body ofthat identical force. They’veeven used these data recordersto test the Generation-6 car’simproved roll cage by captur-ing the impact when a car isdropped upside down in theResearch and DevelopmentCenter parking lot.

“We’re at all times lookingfor improvements to the carthat we can validate, so thatwhen we finally put it in thecar, we’re not worried thatmaybe we did somethingwrong,” Gideon said.

Learn more about the lat-est technological advances inNASCAR by visiting the newNASCAR AutomotiveTechnology CenterEngineered By Mobil 1:www.nascar.com/automo-tivetechnology

By Kristen Boghosian,NASCAR.COM

Inside NASCAR’s Black Box

Follow NASCAR Performance on Twitter and Facebookwww.twitter.com/NASCARauto

www.facebook.com/NASCARPerformance

During a race, the “black box” measures the accel-eration or deceleration of a race car 10,000 timesper second.

An incident data recorder, also known as a “black box,” gives NASCAR officials the ability

to measure the effects of crashes.

39 NASCAR Tt_Layout 1 1/29/15 9:55 AM Page 39


© Murray J acksonSolution at www.tomorrowstechnician.com

ACROSS1. Reciprocating engine components5. Windshield adjunct8. Unexpected engine stoppage9. Drive-shaft parts, briefly (1,6)10. Flat ____ labor-charge system11. Bonneville racing surface (4,4)13. Auto-electric current type14. Texas petroleum source (3,3)18. Engine-block material, maybe (4,4)20. Burn fuel pointlessly22. Carburetor venturis, in other words23. Interstate offramps24. Windshield pillar (1,4)25. Body-shop power tools

DOWN1. Valve lifter and rocker arm connector2. Component containing bendix drive3. Engine lubricants4. Irritating new-car sound5. Luxury-car dash feature, often (4,4)6. Auto-body section7. Trip-odometer pushbutton12. Body-shop visit cause, commonly15. Tachometer warning mark16. Chassis and wheel-bearing lubes17. Uplifting shop equipment18. Carroll Shelby's muscle-car creation19. Brake booster synonym21. Carb-mixture condition, perhaps

Tomorrow’s Technician March Crossword

This is a Camaro book like no other. The Complete Book of Camaro coversthe entire production history of Chevrolet’s iconic pony car, from the originalconcept car, code-named Panther, to the latest and greatest fifth-generationsensation. The Complete Book of Camaro showcases in photos, text and technical specifications every model since 1967. If Chevrolet built it, it is here.

This lavishly illustrated book, weighing nearly four lbs., details all five genera-tions of the Camaro’s production run: the original models developed to fightthe Mustang in the pony car wars of the late 1960s; the second-generation carsthat became icons of American automotive styling in the 1970s; the third-gencars that helped to lead the muscle car renaissance of the 1980s; the refinedfourth- generation models that continued to demonstrate GM’s engineeringprowess through the 1990s; and finally, the blockbuster new fifth-generationCamaro that has taken the world by storm.

Muscle car enthusiasts and auto historians alike will revel at the book’s in-depth data and details on the body, interior and engines that created this American driving icon. In addition to the production vehicles, prototypes, showcars, anniversary editions and pace cars are also covered.

With extensive details, specifications, hundreds of photographs and a trick book cover featuring an RS-model head-light door that slides open when the book is opened, The Complete Book of Camaro is the ultimate resource onChevrolet’s legendary pony car.

The book makes a perfect gift for any student, instructor, muscle-car enthusiast or vehicle historian whose heart forthe Camaro runs deep.

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