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MARCH 2015
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
The palaeolithic diet and the unprovable links to our past
We hear and read a lot about how a diet based on what our Stone Age ancestors ate may be a cure-all for modern ills. But can we really run the clock backwards and find the optimal way to eat and live? Or is it largely an impossible dream based on a set of fallacies about our ancestors asks palaeontologist, evolutionary biologist and archaeological scientist Darren Curnoe. This edited version of Darren’s article originally published in The Conversation is reproduced with permission.
The idea that our genome isn’t suited to our modern way of life began with a highly influential article (in 1985) by Eaton and Konner in the New England Journal of Medicine. Since then, advocates of the palaeolithic diet have uncritically assumed that a gene-culture mismatch has led to an epidemic in “diseases of civilisation”. Humans are genetically, it’s argued, hunter-gatherers and evolution has been unable to keep pace with the rapid cultural change experienced over the last 10,000 years. These assumptions are difficult to test or outright wrong.
What did our Stone Age ancestors eat? We don’t have a good understanding of what our hunter-gatherer ancestors ate – and the further back in time we go the less we know. What we think we know is based on a mixture of ethnographic studies of recent (historical) foraging groups, reconstructions based on the archaeological and fossil records and more recently, genetic investigations. What this all adds up to is that we know little about the plant foods and only a little bit more about some of the animals eaten by our Stone Age ancestors.
IN THIS ISSUE: Dr Darren Curnoe on the Palaeolithic diet and unprovable links to our past; Activity trumps weight-loss for health; Going gluten free with Dr Alan Barclay; Gluten free foods with the GI Symbol; Lentils - the truly super whole food; Azmina Govindji’s Indian cuisine; Somer Sivrioglu’s purslane and ancient grains stew; Prof Jennie Brand-Miller on what replaces added sugars in foods.
• Food for Thought • What’s New?
- Activity trumps weight-loss for health
- Are we sitting on a major health risk?
- Something is better than nothing when it comes to being active
- Walking groups work
• Perspectives with Dr Alan Barclay• Putting Fun into Fitness with Emma Sandall• Nicole Senior’s Taste of Health
- The term “superfood” is over-used, but in the case of lentils it is true.
- What I eat with Azmina Govindji
• In the GI News Kitchen this Month- Adventures in Turkish cooking with Somer Sivrioglu and David Dale
- What’s for dinner with Dr Joanna
- Johanna Burani’s Italian Kitchen
• Glycemic Index Foundation News• Q&A with Prof Jennie Brand-Miller
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There are many variations in Stone Age lifestyle. Life was tough in the Stone Age, with high infant and maternal mortality and short life spans. Seasonal shortages in food would have meant that starvation was common and may have been an annual event. People were very much at the mercy of the natural environment. During the Ice Age, massive climate changes would have resulted in regular dislocations of people and probably the extinction of whole tribes periodically. Strict cultural rules would have made very clear the role played by individuals in society, and each group was different according to traditions and their natural environment. This included gender-specific roles and even rules about what foods you could and couldn’t eat, regardless of their nutritional content or availability.
When ethnographic records and archaeological sites are studied we find a great deal of variation in the diet and behaviour, including activity levels, of recent foragers. Our ancestors – and even more recent hunter-gatherers in Australia – exploited foods as they became available each week and every season. They ate a vast range of foods throughout the year. They were seasonably mobile to take advantage of this: recent foraging groups moved camps on average 16 times a year, but within a wide range of two to 60 times a year.
There seems to have been one universal, though: all people ate animal foods. How much depended on where on the planet you lived: rainforests provided few mammal resources, while the arctic region provided very little else. Studies show on average about 40% of their diet comprised hunted foods, excluding foods gathered or fished. If we add fishing, it rises to 60%. Even among arctic people such as the Inuit whose diet was entirely animal foods at certain times, geneticists have failed to find any mutations enhancing people’s capacity to survive on such an extreme diet.
The picture is rapidly emerging that genetics play a pretty minor role in determining the specifics of our diet. Our physical and cultural environment mostly determines what we eat.
Humans show remarkable flexibility and adaptability to a wide range of environments and diets, today and in the past.
Evolution didn’t end at the Stone Age. One of the central themes in any palaeolithic diet draws on the arguments that our bodies have not evolved much over the past 10,000 years to adapt to agriculture-based foods sources. This is actually quite wrong. There is now abundant evidence for widespread genetic change that occurred during the Neolithic or with the beginnings of agriculture.
Large-scale genomic studies have found that more than 70% of protein coding gene variants and around 90% of disease causing variants in living people whose ancestors were agriculturalists arose in the past 5,000 years or so. Textbook examples include genes associated with lactose tolerance, starch digestion, alcohol metabolism, detoxification of plant food compounds and the metabolism of protein and carbohydrates: all mutations associated with a change in diet.
The regular handling of domesticated animals, and crowded living conditions that eventually exposed people to disease-bearing insects and rodents, led to an assault on our immune system.
It has even been suggested that the light hair, eye and skin colour seen in Europeans may have resulted from a diet poor in vitamin D among early farmers, and the need to produce more of it through increased UV light exposure and absorption.
It’s a difficult choice. There is no single lifestyle or diet that fits all people today or in the past, let alone the genome of our whole species. Like other areas of preventative medicine, our diet and lifestyle choices should be based on scientific evidence not the latest, and perhaps even harmful, commercial fad. If there is one clear message from ethnographic studies of recent hunter-gatherers it’s that variation – in lifestyle and diet – was the norm.
Want more? Check out the complete article in The Conversation.
Associate Prof Darren Curnoe is based at the University of New South Wales. His research focus is reconstructing and understanding the human fossil record of the last 2.6 million years (Pleistocene Epoch). He also appears regularly in the media talking about the science of human evolution and related fields. His blog is www.walkingontwofeet.com.
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WHAT’S NEW?
Activity trumps weight-loss for health
A brisk 20-minute walk each day could be enough to reduce an individual’s risk of early death, according to new research in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition.
The study of over 334,000 European men and women found that twice as many deaths may be attributable to lack of physical activity compared with the number of deaths attributable to obesity, but that just a modest increase in physical activity could have significant health benefits. Prof Ulf Ekelund from the Medical Research Council Epidemiology Unit at the University of Cambridge, who led the study, says: “This is a simple message: just a small amount of physical activity each day could have substantial health benefits for people who are physically inactive. Although we found that just 20 minutes would make a difference, we should really be looking to do more than this – physical activity has many proven health benefits and should be an important part of our daily life.
Are we sitting on a major health risk?
Exercising one hour per day should not give us the peace of mind to remain seated for the remaining 23 says Dr David Alter. Too much sitting is still associated with increased risk of chronic diseases regardless of exercise habits according to a systematic review and meta-analysis published in Annals of Internal Medicine. Alter offers simple strategies for becoming less sedentary, such as taking a 1–3 minute break every half hour or so throughout the day to stand or move around. Standing or exercising while watching television can also help. He suggests we start by reducing sitting times by 15–20 minutes per day and setting weekly goals to improve from there. Over time, one should aim for 2–3 fewer sedentary hours in a 12-hour day.
Enter treadmill desks If you have a deskbound job, you may want to check out the treadmill desk option. Best-selling author Gretchen Rubin bought one for her TV writer sister and reports in Better Than Before, that her sister has embraced the treadmill desk habit, is logging about five miles a day (when previously she had not been able to make exercise a regular habit at all) and it has helped her get the exercise she needs to improve her HbA1C (3 month average blood glucose). Try before you buy. It may be right for you. Or not.
Something is much better than nothing when it comes to being active
#1 Instead of sitting, sitting, sitting, standing up and walking around the room regularly can make a worthwhile difference points out Prof Phillip Sparling and colleagues in the BMJ. Many older adults find it difficult to meet moderate and vigorous exercise targets. They argue that focusing on the 150 minute recommendation may mean that the benefits of lesser amounts of exercise are overlooked and say a change in message to reduce sedentary time and increase light activities may prove more realistic and pave the way to more intense exercise. “Recommendations could focus on reducing sedentary behaviour by introducing light activity throughout the day. This focus would contain two messages: to sit less and move more.”
#2 There are health benefits of activity even if you fall short of the recommended 150 minutes a week says Philipe de Souto Barreto in the BMJ. Studies suggest you can achieve health benefits doing less than the recommended amount. Barreto believes that policies and actions to promote physical activity “should focus on people who are fully sedentary” and the main goal should be “to make small incremental increases in physical activities in their daily life rather than reaching current recommendations.”
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PERSPECTIVES WITH DR ALAN BARCLAY
Free-from foods and fads
Foods, drinks, meals and diets that are free from a particular allergen, nutrient, or ingredient are becoming increasingly popular – so much so that there is now an annual “free-from” food expo that is growing fast according to its organisers. Indeed, “free-from” claims have been the most popular nutrition claims on packaged foods over the past few years and the number seems to be growing every year. Free-from food additives, potential allergens like milk and wheat, and sugars seem to be the primary focus, as food manufacturers attempt to meet consumer demand.
Although there is some evidence that food allergies are increasing, genuine food allergies are still relatively uncommon (1 in 100 adults), so it’s more likely that the current explosion in free-from claims is fuelled by fad diets and food phobias rather than genuine need.
Gluten-free is one of the most popular free-from claims. Market research in Australia indicates that around 1 in 5 people look for gluten-free foods because they believe it will help them lose weight or resolve “bloating” issues. Going gluten-free is not a panacea for all gastrointestinal illnesses or for weight woes. If you simply substitute gluten-free versions for your regular foods, your weight will not automatically go down – in fact it may go up as many gluten-free foods are just as energy dense but also have a high GI.
Walking groups work
Findings published in the British Journal of Sports Medicine reveal that people who regularly walk in groups have lower blood pressure, resting heart rate and total cholesterol. The exercise also leads to a reduction in body fat and BMI. The study was led by Sarah Hanson and Prof Andy Jones of University of Easy Anglia’s Norwich Medical School.
“Our research shows that joining a walking group is one of the best and easiest ways to boost overall health,” says Hanson. “The benefits are wide ranging – and they go above and beyond making people more physically active. What’s more, people find it relatively easy to stick with this type of exercise regime. The merits of walking – including lowering the recurrence of some cancers – are well known, but these findings show that the dynamics and social cohesion of walking in groups may produce additional advantages. People who walk in groups also tend to have a more positive attitude toward physical activity, a shared experience of wellness, and say they feel less lonely and isolated. Taking regular walks can also be a catalyst for adopting other healthy behaviours. The research evidence suggests people enjoy attending walking groups and appear less likely to drop out than many other forms of activity.”
Emma Sandall wrote about the personal benefits of a walking group in GI News last year in Putting Fun into Fitness. You can read the story HERE.
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Who really needs to go gluten free?
Coeliac disease is becoming increasingly common, affecting around 1 in 100 people in Australia and the UK, and 1 in 133 Americans. People with coeliac disease need to completely avoid gluten, because their immune system reacts abnormally to the protein which is found in wheat, rye, and barley (and often a contaminant in oats, depending on where you live), causing damage to their small intestine.
What happens is the tiny, finger-like projections known as villi which line the small intestine become inflamed and flattened. As a consequence, the surface area of the intestine available for the absorption of nutrients is reduced which can lead to diarrhoea and/or constipation, large, bulky foul stools, unwanted weight loss or poor growth in children, flatulence, abdominal bloating, distension or pain, and anaemia. Long-term complications can be very serious and include infertility, miscarriage, depression and dental enamel defects. There is also an increased risk of developing certain forms of cancer such as lymphoma of the small bowel.
A gluten-free diet is currently the only known treatment for coeliac disease and it is for life – there is no cure. By removing the cause of the disease, a gluten-free diet allows the small bowel lining to heal and symptoms to resolve. As long as the gluten-free diet is adhered to as strictly as possible, problems arising from coeliac disease should not return.
Some people with irritable bowel syndrome (IBS) may have what’s known as “non-coeliac gluten sensitivity”. The cause and management of this condition is not well understood. Emerging research indicates it may be the malabsorption of fermentable sugars and oligosaccharides (FODMAPs) not gluten that’s the culprit in some people with IBS. More research is needed.
People with non-coeliac gluten sensitivity do not need to completely avoid all gluten-containing foods and drinks all of the time. Work with your doctor and Accredited/Registered Dietitian to find out how much and how often you can tolerate.
Don’t self diagnose and put yourself on a gluten-free diet. See your doctor first because the symptoms of non-coeliac gluten sensitivity can be very similar to coeliac disease, or other conditions.
Going gluten-free and low GI. Many gluten-free core foods like milk, yoghurt, some starchy vegies, legumes and most fruits have a low GI. Finding gluten-free breads, pasta, breakfast cereals, etc. can still be a challenge as many gluten-free grain alternatives aren’t low GI. Here’s a list of lower GI options. An asterisk * means that the product may contain gluten but gluten-free brands can be found.
Grains – Buckwheat, cellophane noodles, corn tortilla*, some rice varieties (e.g., Doongara), rice vermicelli, soba noodles, quinoa, wild rice (see GI Foundation News for brands that carry the GI Symbol)Breakfast cereals – Buckwheat kernels, rice bran, some mueslisFruit – Most fresh, frozen, dried, glacé or canned fruits, 100% fruit juicesVegetables – Butternut pumpkin, Carisma potatoes, sweet corn, taro, yamLegumes – All dried and canned beans, peas, lentils, chickpeasDairy and soy – Reduced and low-fat milks, yoghurts, ice-creams* and dairy desserts* and reduced and low-fat soy milks*Snack food – Plain popcorn, nuts*, dried fruit and nut mixes,* sunflower and pumpkin seed mixes*
Alan Barclay PhD is a consultant dietitian and Chief Scientific Officer at the Glycemic Index Foundation. He worked for Diabetes Australia (NSW) from 1998-2014 and is a member of the editorial board of Diabetes Australia’s health professional magazine, Diabetes Management Journal. Alan has authored or co-authored over 30 scientific publications, and is coauthor of The Low GI Diet: Diabetes Handbook, The Low GI Diet: Managing Type 2 Diabetes, and The Ultimate Guide to Sugars and Sweeteners.
Contact: [email protected]
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PUTTING FUN INTO FITNESS WITH EMMA SANDALL
What is the plantar fascia and why does it matter?
Fascia is connective tissue fibres, mostly made of collagen, that form sheets or bands beneath the skin to attach, stabilise, enclose, and separate muscles and other internal organs.
Underneath our feet we have a tough layer of fascia called the plantar fascia. It is made up of longitudinally oriented collagen fibres and is divided into three distinct components: the medial component, the central component (plantar aponeurosis), and the lateral component. It creates a flexible springy cushion under the soles of our feet and protects our bones by reducing impact and reinforcing the musculature giving our feet strength and resilience. It connects the bones of our toes to the calcaneus, merging into the Achilles tendon and calf and so you can see that there is a connection which reaches beyond the sole of the foot all the way up the back of the leg via the fascia.
The Importance of stretching the backs of the legs Basically, the theory goes, because fascia connects lines of muscles through the body, tightness in one area can refer down or up the line. The plantar fascia is part of what is called the Superficial Back Line. This is the term used to describe a posterior line of fascia sitting closer to the surface. The fascia unites seemingly separate muscle groups, causing them to function together. Therefore tight hamstrings can affect the feet and the reverse – tightness in the feet can affect muscles in the legs and the back.
A good technique you can use to help release tension in the Superficial Back Line is to use a golf ball and roll it under your foot. By using the golf ball to release the fascia under your foot you ultimately affect the fascia up the entire back of your body. If you fall short of touching your toes, you may think that tight hamstrings are the culprit. That’s probably where you feel the stretch the most. But the problem could be elsewhere on the back of your body.
Stiffness in your Superficial Back Line prevents you from working your lower-body muscles through their entire range of motion. It can also lead to poor lower-back posture. All of this results in less efficient movement and a higher risk of injury.
A spring in the step Our feet are our shock absorbers and they need to be flexible. The arches should be sprung to allow the foot to spread on impact and propel us forward on strike off. Over time the whole foot can lose its shock absorbing ability. This could be due the types of shoes worn which prevent the foot from moving freely; physical inactivity; poor flexibility and tightness in the whole Superficial Back Line.
Plantar fasciitis One of the most common causes of heel pain is inflammation of the plantar fascia. It commonly causes stabbing pain that usually occurs with your very first steps in the morning. Once your foot warms up, the pain normally decreases, but it may return after long periods of standing or after getting up from a chair. It is most common in runners, people who are overweight and those who wear shoes with inadequate support. For diagnosis and suitable treatment options, see your doctor.
About 90% of cases improve within six months of treatment. Conservative approaches include rest, heat, ice, calf-strengthening exercises, techniques to stretch the calf muscles, Achilles tendon, and plantar fascia, and nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs such as aspirin or ibuprofen.
There is some evidence supporting the use of night splints for 1–3 months to relieve persistent plantar fasciitis pain. These splints position and maintain the ankle in a neutral position passively stretching the calf and plantar fascia while you are sleeping. Other options may include supportive footwear, arch taping, and physical therapy.
Emma Sandall is an ex-ballerina turned fitness and health guru. She teaches and coaches dance, fitness and Pilates and writes and produces video for all things movement related. Emma runs Body Playground, a space to activate and inspire body and soul.
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NICOLE SENIOR’S TASTE OF HEALTH
The term “superfood” is over-used, but in the case of lentils it is true.
Growing up, my favourite meal on a chilly evening was my Mum’s lentil soup. Mum was born in Spain, and she grew up with the same dish made by her mother. I’ve since shared the recipe with others and they’ve loved it too – and I’m now sharing it with you too (below). I cook it in the pressure cooker, making it super quick. It’s a real one-pot wonder with huge comfort appeal. Lentils are appreciated by other cultures around the world, most prominently in Indian cuisine as dhal, especially in Hindu people who are vegetarian. Read more about Indian food habits in “What I eat”. It’s a real lost opportunity for health that we consume so little of them.
The term “superfood” is over-used, but in the case of lentils it is true. They are part of a highly nutritious group called legumes (or pulses) containing a marvellous package of nutrients including protein, fibre (all three types: insoluble and soluble fibre, and resistant starch), low GI carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals and an array of beneficial phytochemicals such as isoflavones and lignans. And thankfully for people with celiac disease, legumes are naturally gluten free. Legumes are an integral part the ‘plant-based diet’ known to promote good health and longevity.
Not only are lentils nutritious, they are cheap as well. They form the basis of many peasant dishes (now fashionable in affluent places where food is plentiful) and have provided a valuable meat alternative for poor households the world over. The rise of vegetarianism in developed countries has also given lentils the exposure they richly deserve. Unfortunately, advocates of the current “palaeo” diet shun all legumes, but you would be wise to ignore them. The other plus for legumes such as lentils is their environmental sustainability credentials. Compared to animal sources of protein, they require fewer inputs and produce fewer carbon emissions.
Many people I’ve counselled about their diet are not familiar with lentils and how to prepare them. For the uninitiated, I suggest starting with canned lentils (rinsed well) and adding them to familiar dishes – perhaps in combination with meat at first – such as pasta sauce, meatballs, burgers and meat loaf. Red lentils can be added to Bolognese sauce and cook in 10–15 minutes. Even for the tentative, they pretty much disappear and take on the flavour of the sauce; too easy. Other easy ways into the world of lentils is in curries, casseroles, vegetable soups and pilau/pilaf. Once you’ve got your lentil groove on, you can boldly put them together in salads with beetroot and feta, baby spinach and fresh nectarine, roasted red peppers and basil, parsnip and walnut, or roasted carrot and cumin. For the really ambitious, try cooking with lentil flour. If you can’t find it in health food shops or Indian grocery stores, you can make it yourself by grinding uncooked lentils in your food processor or spice grinder. Try baking nutty flatbread, crunchy pappadums or even cookies.
Canned lentils are convenient but dried lentils are dead-easy to cook. Thin lentil varieties such as the common red lentil don’t need soaking; just simmer 10–15 minutes until tender. For the larger types such as brown and puy (French) lentils, simmer in water until tender and then freeze in meal-sized portions. They are also well suited to slow cooking. More information www.glnc.org.au
Lentil Soup (sopa de lentejas)(Using a pressure cooker)Serves 4–6
Ingredients
• 2 tbsp virgin olive oil• 1 large onion, cut into large chunks• 1 red capsicum/pepper, cut into long strips• 2 cloves garlic, sliced• 1 chorizo sausage, sliced thickly• 1 cup brown lentils• 4 bay leaves
• ¼ cup roughly chopped fresh parsley• 4 cups stock (chicken, vegetable or beef)• 1 can (440g/14oz) peeled and chopped tomatoes• 2 tbsp tomato paste• 2 cups water• ½ cup rice
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Method Heat the olive oil in the base of the pressure cooker. Add the onion, capsicum, garlic and chorizo and cook for 5 minutes, or until onion is softened. Add the lentils, bay leaves and parsley and cook for a few minutes stirring constantly to ensure the lentils are coated. Add the stock, tomatoes, tomato paste and water. Place the lid on the cooker and cook under pressure for 15 minutes. • Remove from the heat, release the steam pressure and leave to cool until safe to remove the lid. Add the rice and stir well. • Replace the lid and allow the rice to cook by absorption over a low heat for 15 minutes (without pressure). • Serve with crusty bread.
Tip I have cooked this recipe many times and will often not use measurements, but simply throw in what I think looks good! You can alter the thickness by using less liquid, or add additional vegetables such as zucchini, carrot, celery or fennel. I’ve also used smoked paprika to up the flavour. Have fun experimenting yourself.
Nicole Senior is an Accredited Nutritionist, author and consultant who strives to make healthy food taste terrific. You can follow her on Twitter, Facebook or checkout her website.
What I Eat with Azmina GovindjiWhat is your cultural background? I’m Indian, born in East Africa, brought up in Scotland, and now live in England! So, I guess you’d call me South Asian with a Scottish twist … It’s important to me to maintain my own heritage and culture, whilst embracing the good parts of Western life and cuisine.
What does a typical day’s food look like? It varies. Having lived in the UK, breakfast is always a Western affair – usually breakfast cereal or peanut butter and banana on granary toast. But Sunday breakfast is often a traditional affair with the extended family. My mum-in-law might make deep fried puris (Indian bread) served with potato curry and homemade mango pickle. Lunch at work is something quick and convenient like a sandwich, or soup. Dinner is a chance to inculcate our authentic cuisine into my children’s eating habits, so it might be lamb curry with rice, or chicken pilau with yogurt and salad.
What is your favourite dish? It has to be my Mum’s peanut dhal and basmati rice. She pressure-cooks toor dhal (flat orange lentils) with tomatoes and raw peanuts. Then she infuses this with a piping hot mix of aromatic cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, garlic and mustard seeds. It’s the perfect warming comfort food. The rice is flavoured with whole cumin seeds and garam masala and is cooked until each grain is separate and fluffy. This goes well with home-made carrot pickle – shredded carrots coated in fresh lemon juice and chilli.
What are three ingredients this cuisine couldn’t do without? Lentils, basmati rice, chapatti flour (wholewheat flour made from semi-hard wheat also known as “atta”)
Can you suggest a hero ingredient? Lentils. There are so many varieties – different colours (brown/green, red, black urad dhal) that can be cooked to different textures (whizzed up into a thick creamy soup or eaten whole). They are an absolute staple – I believe all Indian households will have at least one lentil in their store-cupboard. And we buy huge 2 kilo (4.4 pound) packs.
About Azmina Govindji RD MBDA
Azmina is a mum with a passion for good food, fun and friendship. Underneath that softer side lies a busy professional. She’s an award-winning registered dietitian and nutritionist, known in the UK for her no-nonsense simple tips and realistic outlook on healthy lifestyles. Azmina has written over a dozen books including the best-selling GI Plan, The Hot Body Plan, and Diabetes UK’s Diabetes Weight Loss Diet. She is a national media spokesperson for the British Dietetic Association and has appeared on several TV and radio shows. She now works as a consultant nutritionist to various food companies and organisations.
Find Azmina here: www.azminanutrition.com, Facebook, Twitter, YouTube, Linkedin
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IN THE GI NEWS KITCHEN THIS MONTH
Efendy chef and owner Somer Sivrioglu’s Purslane and ancient grains stew (Piririm asi) • Dr Joanna’s Oregano lamb chops with Greek salad in What’s for Dinner • Johanna Burani shares her Feel-better lentil soup recipe in Italian Kitchen.
Adventures in Turkish cooking with Somer Sivrioglu and David Dale
Purslane and ancient grains stew (Piririm Asi)
In season, this stew appears regularly on the famous ‘Fifty Bowl’ display table at Çiya restaurant in Istanbul’s Kadıköy market, using the kind of grains humans have been boiling for millennia. While it is likely that lentils and chickpeas originated in Anatolia, black-eyed peas are recent arrivals – brought from Africa in the fifteenth century for palace chefs eager to surprise the sultan. The sour-salty green purslane, which contains more omega-3 than any other leafy vegetable, is Turkey’s favourite weed, usually consumed fresh in summer and dried in winter. In the first great work on botany, written in the fourth century BC, the Greek philosopher Theophrastus advises sowing purslane in mid-spring so you can enjoy it in summer. Serves 4
• ½ cup dried chickpeas• ½ cup black-eyed beans• ½ cup green lentils• 3 tbsp (45ml) olive oil• 1 onion• 2 garlic cloves• 1 tomato• ½ tbsp capsicum (pepper) paste (see tip)
• ½ cup coarse bulgur• 2 tsp freshly ground black pepper• 1 bunch purslane (or baby rocket/arugula)• juice of ½ lemon• 1 tsp sumac• 1 tbsp butter• 2 tsp dried mint• 2 tsp chilli flakes
Method Cover the chickpeas with water and soak overnight. Cover the black-eyed beans with water and also soak overnight. • Strain, then rinse the chickpeas and black-eyed beans. Rinse the lentils. Boil the chickpeas in plenty of water for 20 minutes, covered, and then add the black-eyed beans and lentils and boil, covered, for another 40 minutes • Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 3 minutes, then add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more. Cut the tomato in half and then grate it into the onion, discarding the skin • Add the three pulses to the onion mixture. Dilute the capsicum paste in 1 cup of warm water and add it to the mix. Add the bulgur and the pepper. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer • Pick the leaves from the purslane and add them, whole, to the stew. Simmer, covered, for 10 minutes. Add the lemon juice and stir in the sumac, then turn off the heat • Melt the butter in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the mint and stir for 1 minute. Add the chilli flakes and stir for 1 minute more • Divide the stew into four bowls and drizzle with mint butter.
Per serving1615kJ/ 385 calories • 14g protein; 17g fat (includes 4g saturated fat and 13g unsaturated fat; saturated:unsaturated fat ratio = 0.31) • 40g available carbs (includes 6g sugars and 34g starches); • 13g fibre • 80mg sodium • 785mg potassium
Tip: To make capsicum paste Remove stalks and seed from capsicums and dice. Boil chopped pieces in a little water for 1 hour (lid on). Add more water if necessary. Strain and puree in a blender then simmer the puree for 1 hour (lid off). For every kilo (2 pounds) of capsicum, add 2 tablespoon olive oil and 1 teaspoon of salt. Pour into clean glass jars while still warm, top with olive oil and seal.
This recipe from Anatolia published by Murdoch Books is reproduced with permission. Chef Somer Sivrioglu grew up in Istanbul and moved to Sydney when he was 25 and he now runs the popular Efendy restaurant in Balmain. Journalist David Dale is a commentator on popular culture and is a food and travel writer.
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What’s for Dinner with Dr JoannaOregano lamb chops with Greek salad
This dish doesn’t take much to make, yet the flavours are so good you feel like you are having a feast. Close your eyes and you may well be in the Greek Islands! It’s a wonderfully simple dish that relies on the ingredients, so spend a little extra to ensure you have the best quality, particularly for the meat. Be sure to use a good quality extra virgin olive oil too as this adds a wealth of antioxidants and increases your absorption of the antioxidants in the salad vegies. Don’t worry about the fat content here as most comes from those super healthy monounsaturated fats in the oil. Serves 4
• 4 cups lettuce roughly chopped• 3 ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped• 1 Lebanese cucumber, roughly chopped• 3 spring onions, finely chopped• 2 tbsp chopped dill• 8 lamb loin chops• 80g (2¾oz) feta, roughly crumbled
Marinade
• 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil• 2 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced• 1 tbsp fresh oregano leaves (or 1 tsp dried oregano)• juice of 1 lemon• cracked pepper and salt, to taste
Dressing
• 1 tbsp lemon juice• 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil• 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
Method In a bowl, mix together the extra virgin olive oil, garlic, oregano, lemon juice, cracked pepper and salt. In a casserole dish lay out the lamb chops and rub the marinade over both sides of the meat. Marinate for at least 30 minutes. • Prepare your Greek salad in a serving bowl. Add your lettuce (we used radicchio and cos) then tomato, cucumber, feta, dill and spring onion. • Make the dressing by mixing the lemon juice, extra virgin olive oil and red wine vinegar. Pour over the salad when ready to serve. • Preheat your barbecue and cook the lamb chops on each side for approximately 5–7 minutes on the first side then 4–5 minutes on the other side (depending how well done you like them). • Pile onto a warmed platter and scatter with a few leaves of fresh oregano. Serve in the middle of the table along with the salad and low GI potatoes or grains or crusty grainy bread.
Per serving410 calories/1715kJ; 31g protein; 29g fat (includes 8g saturated fat and 21 g unsaturated fat; saturated:unsaturated fat ratio = 0.38); 6g available carbohydrate; 3g fibre
Joanna McMillan PhD is a qualified dietitian and nutritionist. She is director of nutrition consultancy company Dr Joanna, and founder of Get Lean – the online healthy lifestyle system. She is a popular media spokesperson in Australia with regular TV and radio appearances, writes for several magazines and blogs, and has authored several books including The Low GI Diet (with Prof Jennie Brand-Miller). Joanna is a proud ambassador for Diabetes Australia and The Skin and Cancer Foundation. She is also a former fitness instructor and continuing exercise enthusiast which she juggles with being mum to two very energetic boys. Find out more at her website: Dr Joanna.
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Johanna Burani’s Italian KitchenFeel-better lentil soup
Lentils are a staple in Italian households. The one I grew up in was no exception. They were served in soups like this one which I recently made for my cousin, who is recovering from surgery. I knew it would make her “feel better.” The sherry vinegar adds a soft sweetness to the earthiness of the lentils. Makes ten 1-cup servings
• 1 lb (450g) lentils, rinsed and drained• 1 cup thinly sliced leek, white part only• 2 medium carrots, horizontally sliced• 2 medium stalks celery, thinly sliced• ½ cup Italian diced peeled tomatoes and juice• 1 clove garlic, minced• 1 bay leaf• 2 teaspoons salt (Kosher or sea salt)• 5+ twists freshly cracked pepper• 2–3 teaspoons sherry vinegar (optional)
Method Combine all ingredients in a large soup pot (except vinegar if using). Add 10 cups of cold water. Cover and bring to a boil (takes approximately 20 minutes). Reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes or until lentils are tender. Correct seasonings. • Stir in vinegar if using. Mix well. Serve hot.
Per serving (1 cup)70 calories/290kJ; 7g protein; 0g fat; 10g available carbohydrate; 8g fibre
American dietitian and author of the best-selling Good Carbs, Bad Carbs, Johanna Burani, shares her favourite recipes with a low or moderate GI. For more information, check out Johanna’s website. The photographs are by Sergio Burani. His food, travel and wine photography website is photosbysergio.com.
GLYCEMIC INDEX FOUNDATION NEWS
Where to start when looking for low GI, gluten free options
Our aim here at the Glycemic Index Foundation is to show you how easy it is to incorporate the principles of low GI eating into your everyday meals. Finding low GI, gluten-free foods is easier these days as there is a much wider choice in the supermarket, but as Dietitian Dr Kate Marsh, author of Low GI Gluten-free Cooking points out:
“While it is great to see an ever-increasing range of gluten-free foods becoming available and making life easier for those with coeliac disease, unfortunately many of them are highly processed and some are high in fat and added sugar – two ingredients that are naturally gluten-free! Gluten-free diets also tend to have a high GI because many low GI staples such as whole wheat kernel breads, pasta and barley are eliminated because they contain gluten. The gluten-free alternatives, due to their ingredients and processing methods, are often quickly digested and absorbed, raising blood glucose and insulin levels.
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Here in Australia we have a number of gluten-free low GI starchy carbs you can put on your plate as a main meal accompaniment or the basis for a light meal or lunch that meet the GI Foundation’s strict nutritional criteria and carry the low GI Symbol. Here they are (in alphabetical order):
• Carisma potatoes (GI 53)• Coles Brown Rice and Quinoa Microwave pouch (GI 51)• Coles Brown Rice and Chia Seed Microwave pouch (GI 41)• Coles Mexican Style Rice Microwave pouch (GI 47)• Coles Simply Gluten Free Mexican Style Quinoa and Brown Rice cups (GI 47)• Coles Simply Gluten Free Quinoa cups (GI 53)• Coles Simply Gluten Free Pasta Range – spaghetti, spiral and penne (GI 46)• Mission White Corn Tortillas (GI 52)• Sunrice Low GI White Rice (GI 54)• Sunrice Low GI Brown rice (GI 54)• SunRice Low GI White Rice Microwave pouch (GI 52)
Chicken Corn TortillasTry these tasty tortillas from our friends at Mission Foods. The kids will love them.Serves 4
Ingredients
• 4 Mission Mexican White Corn Tortilla• ¼ cup guacamole• ½ small BBQ (or roast) chicken, skin removed, meat
shredded
• lettuce shredded• 2 roma tomatoes,
chopped• ½ cup reduced fat tasty cheese• plus 1 400 g can kidney beans
Method • Spread 1 tbsp guacamole down the centre of one warmed corn tortilla. • Top the guacamole with some of the shredded chicken. • Top chicken with lettuce, chopped tomato and cheese. • Repeat steps 1–3 with remaining 3 tortillas and ingredients. • Fold each tortilla into a taco shape and serve.
Per serving540 calories/2260kJ; 47g protein; 20g fat (includes 8g saturated fat and 12 g unsaturated fat; saturated:unsaturated fat ratio = 0.67); 36g available carbohydrate; 12g fibre; 960 mg sodium; 905 mg potassium
Recipe and image kindly supplied by Mission Foods Australia. For more delicious recipes using their corn tortillas go to www.missionmenus.com/au
There’s more information on our low GI gluten free products that carry the GI Symbol including the available carbs per serving and glycemic load HERE.
Dianna Crisp is the Communications and Partnership Manager at the Glycemic Index Foundation, a not-for-profit, health promotions charity. Website: www.gisymbol.comFacebookTwitter
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Q&A WITH JENNIE BRAND-MILLER
I have been reading that manufacturers are reducing the amounts of added sugars in foods. Do they replace them with anything?
Yes, it’s true that many manufacturers are reducing the amount of sugars (sucrose, glucose and fructose) that they add to processed foods and beverages. And yes, they generally replace sugars or honey with something (or several ingredients) to maintain the sweetness level consumers expect for the product or beverage, and to achieve the right texture or “mouth-feel”.
The replacement ingredients can include alternative sweeteners such as aspartame or stevia; sugar alcohols (polyols) such as erythritol (often combined with stevia) and xylitol; maltodextrins, oligosaccharides or starches. Some replacers (eg maltitol, fructo-oligosaccarides) have limited digestibility, and in large amounts cause gastrointestinal rumblings (and even diarrhoea). How can you tell if they are there? You have to read the label. Here’s a clue. If the front of the pack (can, tub, bottle or jar) announces that a product is “diet” or “light/lite” or has “no added sugar”, read the ingredient list on the back of the pack to see what’s been added instead.
Many people are very concerned about added sugars today. So how much (if any) is OK? A diet with a moderate amount of added sugars (about 5–10 percent of total energy, or 25–50 grams in a 2,000-calorie/8,400kJ diet) is the amount considered commensurate with a nutritious diet by the World Health Organization. I don’t believe that it’s helpful to strictly avoid all sources of added sugars. For one, it’s highly likely that you’ll replace those calories (kilojoules) with something else. Not at a conscious level, of course, but in the appetite centre of your brain, hormones and other signals will ensure you’re maintaining your usual body weight.
Research shows us that if you cut sugar calories from your diet, there’s a good chance you’ll eat more calories from fat, particularly saturated fat (the so-called sugar-fat seesaw). Consuming more saturated fat will definitely increase your risk of chronic disease. If you’re careful to avoid both saturated fat and added sugars, perhaps you’ll eat consume more alcohol or refined fats and oils that are also “empty calories,” just like added sugars. So you’ll have achieved nothing.
Or perhaps you’ll eat more starch, particularly the highly refined starches that are also empty calories and contribute to a high dietary glycemic load (think your typical French fries, white rice, white bread, and highly processed breakfast cereals). These foods raise blood glucose more than other sources of carbohydrates, and they also increase the risk of chronic disease. And there’s a good chance you’ll consume more salt, too, because starchy foods are bland without it
I believe we can use added sugars judiciously to increase the intake of nutritious foods that might otherwise not appeal (think a little brown sugar on hot oatmeal, a swirl of date syrup on yogurt, a drizzle of caramelized balsamic on veggies).
Professor Jennie Brand-Miller (AM, PhD, FAIFST, FNSA, MAICD) is an internationally recognised authority on carbohydrates and the glycemic index with over 250 scientific publications. She holds a Personal Chair in Human Nutrition in the Boden Institute of Obesity, Nutrition, Exercise and Eating Disorders and Charles Perkins Centre at the University of Sydney. She is the co-author of many books for the consumer on the glycemic index and health.
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