Material Minimum Requirements Revised 08-2009_xls (1)

Material Minimum Requirements

valid from 01-2007revised 08-2009

page 1

Woven, Circularknit, Flatknit Accessories, Scarfs, Gloves For all compositions

page 2 Flatknit Knitwear, Pullover, Cardigans CO,CO-Mix

page 3 Flatknit Knitwear, Pullover, Cardigans Wool Mixtures

page 4 Woven

Jackets, Downjackets, Jackets water resistant / water repellent CO,CO-Mix,Man Made Fibre,Man Made Fibre Mix

page 5 Woven Jackets, Trousers, Skirts WO, Man Made Fibre, Other Protein Fibre

page 6 Woven

Jackets, Trousers, Skirts, Accessories Leather

page 7 Woven Jackets, Trousers, Skirts, Tops Indigo + Sulfur dyed garments

page 8Woven, Circularknit Lining For all compositions

page 9 Woven

Shirt, Blouses, Tops, Trousers, Dresses,Skirts CO, CO-Mix, Silk

page 10 Circularknit

Sweatshirt, Sweatjacket, Sportswear CO, CO-Mix

page 11 Circularknit T- Shirts,Blouses CO, CO-Mix, Regenerated fibres

page 12

Woven, Circularknit, Flatknit Beachwear For all compositions

page 13

Woven, Circularknit, Flatknit All productgroups

page 14 Leather Shoes Leather

page 15

Woven, Circulraknit, Flatknit Shoes For all compositions except leather

valid from 01-2007 - revised 08-2009

Register

Index Standard11.1 ISO 38011.2 ISO 2589

2

2.1

ISO 6330, 5077, 3759

2.2 ISO 6330, 5077, 3759

2.3 ISO 3175

2.4 visual judgement

3

3.1 TOM TAILOR method

3.2 TOM TAILOR method

3.3 a ISO 12945-2

3.3 b ISO 12945-2

3.3 c ISO 12945-2

3.4 a TOM TAILOR method

3.4 b TOM TAILOR method

3.5 ISO 12947-1/2

3.6 DIN EN ISO 13936-2

3.7 a DIN EN ISO 13934-1

3.7 b EN ISO 13937-2

3.8 DIN 53835-14

3.9 Part 11-A : 2008

3.10 Part 10-B : 2008

3.11 DIN EN 13562

3.12 ISO 3376

3.13 ISO 3377- part 1

3.14 DIN 53331

3.15 ISO 5402

3.16 ISO 11644

3.17 TOM TAILOR washtest

3.18 ASTM D 1230

3.19 DIN EN ISO 17707

3.20 DIN EN ISO 17708

3.21 DIN EN 13287

3.22 Methods

3.23 DIN EN 12771

3.24 material,coated

3.25

in accordance to DIN EN ISO 13934-1

3.26 DIN EN 12785

3.27 TOM TAILOR washtest

4 COLOUR FASTNESS4.0 ISO 105 C064.1 a ISO 105 C06,C08,C09

4.2 a ISO 105 D014.2 b ISO 11643

4.3 a ISO 105 X124.3 b ISO 105 X124.3 c ISO 116404.3 d ISO 116404.3 e ISO 11640

4.4a ISO 105 E04

4.4 b ISO 105 E044.4 c ISO 116414.5 a ISO 105 E014.5 b ISO 11642

to perspiration (leather)to water

to water (leather)

rubbing, wet (leather)rubbing, perspiration (leather)

to perspiration, acid

to perspiration, alcaline

to dry cleaning (leather)

rubbing, dryrubbing, wet

rubbing, dry (leather)

colour change after washingto washing

appearance after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc.

to dry cleaning

determination of flex resistance upper material (shoes)

pull out strength for buckles and straps (shoes)heel attachment (shoes)

COLOUR FASTNESS

determination of maximum force (strip method)

permanent tensile (elastic behaviour)

Turbidity with Automated NTU Meter

Fill Power with Steam Conditioning

tearing strength

fuzzing before washingfuzzing after washingabrasion resistance

seam slippage resistance

spirality after washingpilling (500 cycles)

pilling (1000 cycles)pilling (2000 cycles)

shrinkage after dry cleaning

optic after washing

MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

spirality before washing

determination of thickness

DIMENSIONAL STABILITYshrinkage after washing (total value of shrinkage in warp and weft must never be more

than +/- 5% for CK and Fk and +/- 3% for WO)

shrinkage after tumbling

Norm IndexTest method

CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICSweight tolerance g/m²

tear strength for outsoles (shoes)

water column

determination of tensile strength and percentage extension (strip method) (leather)

determination of tear load - single edge tear (leather)

determination of stitch tear resistance (leather)

determination of flex resistance by flexometer (leather)

test of adhesion of finish (leather)

resistance of crinkle, pleats, tackings

burning behaviour of clothing

determination of flex ressitance for outsoles (shoes)

adhesion of sole (shoes)

slip resistance (shoes)

floormarking of outsoles (shoes)

4.6 ISO 105 B024.7 § 64 LFGB B 82.10-14.8 ISO 105 E024.9 ISO 105 E03 (50mg/l)4.10 ISO 157004.11 visual judgement

4.12 DIN EN ISO 105-X184.13 DIN EN ISO 116404.14 ISO 105 C0655.1

5.2

max. total colourdifference light box D65 depends on the shade

colour change after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc.

In case different materials of the same shade are used in one garment it is necessary to determine metamerism.

to chlorine waterto water spotting (leather)optic after washing (change in shade must be not be less than grade 4, surface must not

be different to unwashed sample)phenolic yellowing

to artificial saliva (mini kids, up to size 110)to seawater

COLOUR COMMUNICATION

cf to shoe polish/care product

to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test)


page 1 Accessories, Scarfs, Gloves

characteristic features

1 CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS

1.1 +/- 5%

2 DIMENSIONAL STABILITY CK FK WO

2.1 +/-5 % +/-5 % +/-3 %

2.3 +/-4 % +/-4 % +/-3 %

2.4

3 MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

3.3 a 2-3 3-4 3-4

3.3 b 2-3 3-4 3-4

3.3 c 2-3 3-4 3-4

carded yarn, felpa brushed outside, mohair, angora, Kashmir, peached outside after 2000 rubs 1-2 1-2 1-2

wool-mix, merino, viscose after 2000 rubs 2-3 2-3 2-3

silk after 2000 rubs 3 3 33.27

40°C 60 min 1200 cycles

40°C gentle 45 min 800 cycles

40°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycles




wool 30°C 35 min 600 cycles

wool cold handwash-program

35 min 600 cycles

4 COLOUR FASTNESS

4.0 colour change after washing

pigment dyed/printed,tinted

4.1

peached fabrics


4.2 a

4.3 a

4.3 b

4.4 a

4.4 b

4.5 a

Pilling (500 cycles)

3-4

4-5

Woven, Circularknit, Flatknit = for all

compositions



minumum requirement

shrinkage after washing


has to be in shape after washingoptic after washing

3

max. 10 gr/m²weight tolerance g/m²

3

4

to dry cleaning

to washing

to rubbing, dry

4

4

to rubbing, wet


to water


peached fabrics,pigment dyed/printed,tinted

3-4

3-4

2

4

3

after 5 times washing with color washing detergent no faults visible, tested item must not show any visible defects and appearance must be satisfactory

appearance after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label with below mentioned parameters which based on washing machine Siemens S 14.47 (WM 14S477)

3

peached fabrics,pigment dyed/printed,tinted

peached fabrics

4.6

4.7

4.114.14

5 COLOUR COMMUNICATION5.1

5.2



to artificial salivapigment dyed/printed,tinted

*for contrast coloured article the colour fastness concerning bleeding has to be minimum 4-5

no faults visible

To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching

max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be In case different materials of the same shade are used in

garment to garment:DE 0,5

4-5

has to meet requirements, the colour has to be fast

3-4

3

colour change after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label

4

mini kids, up to size 110

optic after washing

3-4


page 2 Flatknit = CO, CO-Mix

1 CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS1.1 +/- 5%2 DIMENSIONAL STABILITY2.1

2.3

3 MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES3.1

3.2

3.3 a

3.3 b

3.3 c

3.27

40°C 60 min 1200 cycles40°C gentle 45 min 800 cycles40°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycles30°C 60 min 1200 cycles30°C gentle 40 min 800 cycles30°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycleswool 30°C 35 min 600 cycles

wool cold handwash-program

35 min 600 cycles

4 COLOUR FASTNESS


pigment dyed/printed,tinted4.1 to washing

pigment dyed/printed4.2 a to dry cleaning

4.3 a to rubbing, dry

pigment dyed/printed4.3 b to rubbing, wet

pigment dyed/printed

4.4 a

4.4 b

4.5 a to water

4.6

pigment dyed/printed4.7 to artificial saliva


4.11 optic after washing4.14

5

Knitwear, Pullover, Cardigans

minumum requirement

weight tolerance g/m² max. 10 g/m²


Flatknitshrinkage after washing +/-5 % shrinkage after dry cleaning +/-4 %

spirality before washing 2%spirality after washing 3 %; maximum 3,0 cmpilling (500 cycles) 3-4pilling (1000 cycles) 3-4

4

pilling (2000 cycles) 3-4






4

32

3-4

3-4

pigment dyed/printed 3

3



no faults visible

4-5

4

3-4


4

4-5

43

3


4


5.1

5.2



lamps (D65, TL 84, F)In case different materials of the same shade are used in one garment it is necessary to determine metamerism.


max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under light box “Verivide” D65 and TL 84.No shade variation accepted within one garment.


page 3 Flatknit = Wool Mixture


1.1 +/- 5%

2 DIMENSIONAL STABILITY

2.1

2.3


3.1

3.2

3.3 a

3.3 b

3.3 c

3.27







wool 30°C 35 min 600 cycleswool cold handwash-program

35 min 600 cycles

4 COLOUR FASTNESS



4.1


4.2 a

4.3 a


4.3 b


4.4 a

4.4 b


4.5 a


4.6

spirality before washing 2%

shrinkage after dry cleaning +/-4 %

Flatknit

shrinkage after washing +/-5 %

Knitwear, Pullover, Cardigans

max. 10 g/m²

characteristic features minumum requirement

weight tolerance g/m²

spirality after washing 3 %; maximum 3,0 cm


1-2

4


2-3pilling (2000 cycles)

4


2

open structured yarn

Kashmir, Mohair, Angora

to rubbing, wet

4

3

1-2

4

to water

3-4

3-4

3

4

3






to washing

to dry cleaning

4-5

3

to rubbing, dry

3

4-5

pigment dyed/printed4.7



5.2

To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching lamps (D65,

TL 84, F)

to artificial salivamini kids, up to size 110


4



no faults visible

3-4





page 4



1.1 +/- 5%


2.1

2.2

2.3


3.1

3.2

3.3 a

3.3 b

3.3 c

3.5

3.6 < 220g/m²

> 220g/m²3.7 a fitted

regular

3.7 b < 220 g/m²

> 220 g/m²

3.9

3.10

3.11

3.17 resistance of crinkle, pleats, tacking has to withstand 5 washes in accordance to carelabel3.27







wool 30°C 35 min 600 cycleswool cold handwash-program 35 min 600 cycles

4 COLOUR FASTNESS



4.1

peached fabric


4.2 a

4.3 a

4.3 b

corduroy,microfibre

corduroy,microfibre

peached fabric, pigment dyed/printed

to rubbing, wet

2-3

4-5

3

3

3-4

4

12 daN, fitted: 3 mm; regular: 4 mm seam opening

1%

+/-3 %

10000 cycles= reduction of the weight max 4%

2 %; maximum 1,5 cm

3-4

3-4

Jackets, Downjackets, Jackets water resistant/water repellent

Woven = CO,CO-Mix,Man Made

Fibre,Man Made Fibre

max. 10 gr/m²

Woven



minumum requirement

+/-3 %


pilling (500 cycles)

+/-3 %

shrinkage after tumbling


water column

to rubbing, dry

to dry cleaning

abrasion resistance

spirality after washing



20 daN

FOR JACKETS WITH DOWNFILLER

425-540 mmfilling power (30g)

1,5 daN

to washing


1500 mm

4


seam slippage resistance 6 daN, fitted: 3 mm; regular: 4 mm seam opening

22 daN

tearing strength 0,8 daN

WATER RESISTANT/ WATER REPELLENT JACKETS

>300 (NTU <11.0)turbidity test (10g)


4

3

3-4

4

4.4 a


4.4 b

peached fabric, pigment dyed/printed4.5 a

peached fabrics

4.6

4.7

4.11 optic after washing

4.12 phenolic yellowing4.14

5 COLOUR COMMUNICATION

5.1

5.2



3-4

4-5

2

3-4







To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching lamps (D65, TL 84,

F)



to water



to artificial saliva (mini kids, up to size 110)

3

3

3

3-4

4

4

4-5

no faults visible

3-4

page 5 Woven = WO, Man Made Fibre, Other Protein Fibres


1 CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS1.1 weight tolerance g/m² +/- 5% max. 10 gr/m²


2.1

2.3


3.1

3.2

3.3 a

3.3 b

3.3 c

after 2000 rubs

Merino after 2000 rubs

Silk after 2000 rubs

3.6 < 220g/m²

> 220g/m²3.7 a regular

fitted

3.7 b < 220 g/m²

> 220 g/m²

3.8 length

width

3.27







wool 30°C 35 min 600 cycleswool cold handwash-programm

35 min 600 cycles

4 COLOUR FASTNESS



4.1

4.2 a

4.3 a rubbing, dry

peached fabric,pigment dyed/printed

microfibre

shrinkage after dry cleaning +/-3 %


Jackets, Trousers, Skirts

minumum requirement

Woven


1%

spirality after washing 2 %; maximum 1,5 cm




Mohair, Angora,Kashmir 1-2


20 daN

2-3

3



determination of maximum force (strip method) 22 daN

to dry cleaning

permanent tensile max. 2%

max. 5%

4

4

3

3-4

peached fabrics 3-4



1,5 daN

4-5

4

to washing 4



4.3 b

peached fabric,pigment dyed/printedmicrofibre

4.4 a

4.4 b

4.5 a

4.6 to light

4.7

4.114.14

55.1

5.2


**requirements for lining see page 6

3



To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching lamps (D65, TL

84, F)



22-3


rubbing, wet

to water 4

peached fabrics 3-4pigment dyed/printed 3

optic after washing no faults visible

4-5pigment dyed/printed 3-4

to artificial saliva has to meet requirements, the colour has to be fastmini kids, up to size 110

to perspiration, alcaline 3-4



4

peached fabric,pigment dyed/printed 3

3-4peached fabric,pigment dyed/printed 3

page 6 Leather


1.2 determination of thickness (mm)


3.12

3.13

3.14

3.15

3.16

4 COLOUR FASTNESS

4.1 (depends on care instruction)4.2 b

4.3

4.3 c

Napaleather finishing rubbing dry = 50 cycles

4.3 d

4.3 e

4.3 c

Napa, Aniline, Velour, Nubuk

4.3 d

4.3 e

4.3 c lamb velour

4.3 d

4.3 e

4.4 c

4.5 b

4.6 to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test)

4.7

4.10

55.1

5.2


Napa leather finishing

napa, aniline, velour, nubuk




garment e.g. chest to sleeve: DE 0,8

to artificial saliva


4

3

test for adhesion of finish

3rubbing dry = 20 cycles

2,5 N/ 10mm

optic after testing: leather may not show any damages to the surface

3-4

30 N/mm

> 50.000

3-4

determination of tensile strength and percentage extension (strip method)

determination of tear load - single edge tear

determination of stitch tear resistance

determination of flex resistance by flexometer

minumum requirement

regular: 20 daNfitted: 25 daN

12 N/mm

has to meet the requirement +/-20%

to water

3


rubbing perspiration = 20 cycles

rubbing wet = 10 cycles


3

Jackets, Trousers, Skirts, Accessories



to washingto dry cleaning

3

3

3

to rubbing

rubbing dry = 20 cycles


33


3to perspiration (for garment without lining)

To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched

under different colour matching lamps (D65, TL 84, F)

to water spotting 4-5 Must dry without staining with

waterdrops after wetting

Has to meet requirements, the colour has to be fast

3-43-4

page 7 Woven = Indigo + Sulfur dyed garments

characteristic features1 CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS1.1 +/- 5%2 DIMENSIONAL STABILITY2.1


3.2

3.5

3.7 a fittedregular

3.7 b < 220 g/m²> 220 g/m²

3.5 trousers,shirts, dressestrousers

3.8 lengthwidth


40°C 60 min 1200 cycles40°C gentle 45 min 800 cycles

40°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycles30°C 60 min 1200 cycles30°C gentle 40 min 800 cycles

30°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycleswool 30°C 35 min 600 cycleswool cold handwash-program

35 min 600 cycles

4 COLOUR FASTNESS4.0 colour change after washing

pigment dyed/printed,tinted4.1

4.3 a

4.3 b

4.4 a

4.4 b

4.5 a

4.6

acid wash

peached fabrics

enzyme washstone washbleached treatment

3

4

10000 cycles= reduction of the weight max 4%10000 cycles= reduction of the weight max 8%

max. 2%max. 5%

3-4

3-4

34-5

3-4

3-43-4

permanent tensile

rinse wash,tinted,pigment dyed/printed

FOR CORDUROY / VELVET GARMENTS


3-4

3

23-4

to water

3

enzyme stone washed

1,5 daN

abrasion resistance

22 daN20 daN

Woven shrinkage after washing +/-3 %


Jackets, Trousers, Skirts, Tops

minumum requirement

weight tolerance g/m² max. 10 gr/m²


0,8 daNtearing strength

4-5444



abrasion resistance 20.000 TourenFOR JEANS WITH HEAVY TREATMENTS

spirality before washing 2%spirality after washing

3 %; maximum 1,5 cmmaximum 3,0 cm

appearance after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label with below mentioned parameters which based on washing machine


to washing


to rubbing, dry


to rubbing, wet

sandblasted

pigment dyed/printedtinted

4.7

mini kids, up to size 1104.11 optic after washing4.14

55.1

5.2 To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching lamps (D65, TL

84, F)*for contrast coloured article the colour fastness concerning bleeding has to be minimum 4-5




3-43-4



no faults visible

3-4




4

page 8 Woven, Circularknit = for all compositions



1.1 +/- 5% max. 10 gr/m²

2 DIMENSIONAL STABILITY Woven Circularknit

2.1 +/-3 % +/-5 %

2.3 +/-3 % +/-4 %


3.1 1% 2%

3.2

2 %maximum 1,5 cm

3 %maximum 3,0 cm

3.3 a 3-4 2-3

3.3 b 3-4 2-3

3.3 c 3-4 2-3

3.6 < 220 g/m²

> 220g/m²

3.7

fittedregular

3.7 b < 220 g/m²> 220 g/m²

3.8 lengthwidth

3.27







wool 30°C 35 min 600 cycleswool cold handwash-program

35 min 600 cycles

4



4.1

4.2 a

4.3 a

pigment dyed/printed4.3 b


4.4 a


Lining

rubbing, dry






permanent tensile

COLOUR FASTNESS








minumum requirement

4

4

22 daN


18 daN

max. 5%max. 2%

rubbing, wet

to dry cleaning

4

3

3-4

4-5

4

pigment dyed/printed 3-4

3

2

tearing strength 0,8 daN1,5 daN


after 5 times washing no faults visible, tested item must not show any visible defects and appearance must be satisfactory

3

to washing

4.4 bpigment dyed/printed

4.5 a


4.6 to light

4.7


4.11 optic after washing no faults visible4.14


5.2




4





To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching lamps (D65,

TL 84, F)

34-5



4

3to water

3-4

page 9 Woven = CO, CO-Mix, Silk, Linen



1.1 +/- 5% max. 10 gr/m²


2.1

2.3


3.1

3.2

3.3 a

3.3 b

3.3 c

silk after 2000 rubs

3.6 < 220g/m²

> 220 g/m²

3.7 a regular

fitted

3.7 b < 220 g/m²

> 220 g/m²

3.8 length

width

3.8 length

width




40°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycles30°C 60 min 1200 cycles

30°C gentle 40 min 800 cycles30°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycleswool 30°C 35 min 600 cycleswool cold handwash-program

35 min 600 cycles

4

4.0 colour change after washingpigment dyed/printed

4.1

peached fabrics

4.2 a

4.3 a

silk

4.3 b

silk

+/-3 %shrinkage after dry cleaning

Woven


Shirt,Blouses,Tops, Trousers,Dresses,Sk

irts

minumum requirement


spirality before washing 1%

spirality after washing2 %

maximum 1,5 cm






3


4-5

4

22 daN

FOR LINEN GARMENTSmax. 2%


18 daN

permanent tensile max. 2%

max. 5%

max. 10%

COLOUR FASTNESS

permanent tensile


after 5 times washing no faults visible, tested item must not show any visible defects and appearance must be satisfactory

to dry cleaning 4

batik/dip dyed, silk,pigment dyed/printed

to washing 4

3

4

3-4

rubbing, wet 3

3peached fabrics,pigment dyed/printed

rubbing, dry

2-3

2peached fabrics,pigment dyed/printed


1,5 daN

3-4

4.4 a

4.4 b

4.5 a

peached fabrics

4.6


4.12 phenolic yellowing



5.2

valid from 01-2007-revised 08-2009

to perspiration, alcaline 3-4

3

to perspiration, acid 3-4


to artificial saliva has to meet requirements, the colour has to be fastmini kids, up to size 110


4-5no faults visible



To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching lamps (D65, TL 84, F)

peached fabrics,silk,pigment dyed/printed

peached fabrics,silk,pigment dyed/printed

3to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test) 4-5

3-4

pigment dyed/printed,batik/dip dyed,silk

to water


4

4

3-4

3

page 10 Circularknit = CO, CO-Mix


1.1 +/- 5% max. 10 gr/m²


2.1

3

3.1

3.2

3.3 a

3.3 b

3.3 c

3.4 a

3.4 b

3.27








wool cold handwash-program 35 min 600 cycles

4



4.1

peached fabrics

batik&dip dyed,pigment dyed/printed

4.3 a

peached fabrics,pigment dyed/printed

4.3 b


4.4 a


4.4 b


4.5 a

peached fabricsbatik & dip dyed,pigment dyed/printed

4.6

4.7

2-3

Circularknit

4-5


3-4

3-4


Sweatshirt, Sweatjacket, Sportswear

minumum requirementcharacteristic features



fuzzing before washing

+/-5 %

COLOUR FASTNESS

MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

2%

3 % max. 3,0 cm





FOR FELPA BRUSHED

2

1

2-3

4

3-4



fuzzing after washing


rubbing, wet



to washing


rubbing, dry

3

3


to water

pigment dyed/printed, heavy gmt washed

3

4-5

4

3

2

3

3

4

3-4

4

3-4



5.2

*for contrast coloured article the colour fastness concerning bleeding has to be minimum 4-5 valid from 01-2007 - revised 08-2009


To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under

different colour matching lamps (D65, TL 84, F)

no faults visible

max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under light box “Verivide” D65 and TL 84.No shade variation accepted within one garment.In case different materials of the same shade are used in one garment it is necessary to determine metamerism.


4

page 11 Circularknit = CO, CO-Mix, regenerated


1.1 +/- 5% max. 10 gr/m²

2 DIMENSIONAL STABILITY2.1

2.3

3 MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES3.1 up to 120 g/m²

> 120g/m²

3.2 up to 120 g/m²

> 120g/m²

3.3 a up to 120 g/m²

> 120g/m²

3.3 b up to 120 g/m²

>120g/m²

3.3 c up to 120 g/m²

> 120g/m²3.27

40°C 60 min 1200 cycles40°C gentle 45 min 800 cycles40°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycles30°C 60 min 1200 cycles30°C gentle 40 min 800 cycles30°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycleswool 30°C 35 min 600 cycles

wool cold handwash-program 35 min 600 cycles44.0 colour change after washing


4.1

4.3 a

4.3 b

4.4 a

4.4 b

4.5 a

4.6

4.7

3-44-53

3

4

3

T- Shirts, Blouses


rubbing, dry

rubbing, wet

COLOUR FASTNESS



to washing

batik & dip dyed,pigment dyed/printed


2-3

peached fabrics

4

3-4

2-3

2

2-3

2


5%, max. 4cm

2



spirality after washing2%

3%

3%, max. 3cm

minumum requirement


+/-4 %

Circularknit +/-5 %


shrinkage after washingshrinkage after dry cleaning



4-5

4

3

4

peached fabrics,batik & dip dyed, pigment dyed/printed

peached fabrics,batik & dip dyed, pigment dyed/printed


3

to water

peached fabricsbatik & dip dyed,pigment dyed/printed

3-4

3-4

3-4


3

2



pigment dyed/printed,heavy gmt washed



5.2




no faults visible


4


To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour

matching lamps (D65, TL 84, F)

page 12 Woven, Circularknit = for all compositions



1.1 +/- 5% max. 10 gr/m²

2 DIMENSIONAL STABILITY Woven Circularknit

2.1 +/-3 % +/-5 %


3.1 1% 2%

3.2 2 % maximum 1,5 cm3 % maximum

3,0 cm

3.3 a 3-4 2-33.3 b 3-4 2-33.3 c 3-4 2-3

3.6 < 220g/m²> 220g/m²

3.7 regularfitted

3.27








wool cold handwash-program 35 min 600 cycles

4



4.1


4.3 a


4.3 b

peached fabrics


4.4 a

4.4 b

4.5 a

peached fabrics


4.7

4.8

2

3

3

4

2

peached fabrics

rubbing, dry

3-4

3

18 daN22 daN

4


4to seawater


4

to perspiration, acid 3-4

3

3-4

minumum requirement



spirality after washingpilling (500 cycles)

Beachwear




4



COLOUR FASTNESS

to washing



4-5



rubbing, wet

5


to water


3-4

4.9



5.2


no faults visible



4to chlorine water


To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching lamps (D65, TL

84, F)


4

page 13 Woven, Circularknit, Flatknit



3.18


at 1 second of flame contact time, the flame spread over 127mm may not be shorter than 4 seconds.

all productgroups

All fabrics which do NOT meet these two (point a+b) caracteristics has to be tested by ASTM D 1230:a) fabrics with a smooth (not roughened) surface/face side with a mass (weight per m²) of more than 88 grams, regardless of the type of fibres it is made of.b) All fabrics (both smooth and roughened face side and regardless of the weight per m²) if entirely made of one of the following fibres or combination of these fibres: acrylic, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester and wool.

burning behaviour of clothing

minumum requirement

page 14 Leather


3.13

3.14

3.15

upper material:

3.163.22

150.000 cycles up to micro cracks


3.25

3.26 heel attachment3.27

4 COLOUR FASTNESS

4.3

4.3 f upper leather rubbing dry = 100 cycles4.3 g rubbing wet = 50 cycles4.3 f leather lining rubbing dry = 100 cycles4.3 g rubbing wet = 50 cycles4.4 c

4.5 b

4.6 to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test)4.10

4.13

55.1

5.2

Shoes

determination of tensile strength and percentage split velour: 150 N light leather: 80N

determination of tear load - single edge tear upper material: 25N/mm

lining: 15N/mmdetermination of stitch tear resistance min. 50 N

determination of flex resistance by flexometer dry 50.000 cycleswet 10.000 cycles

test for adhesion of finish 2,5 N/ 10mmfloor marking of outsole 4

3.24 determination of flex resistance upper material coated leather:

patent leather:

pull out strength for buckles and straps 150 N

>500N

floor marking of outsole 4

3

to rubbingoptic after testing: leather may not show any damages to the surface

4

32-3

to perspiration leather lining pH 8 = 20 3-4to water 3-4

3-4to water spotting

4-5 Must dry without staining with waterdrops after

wetting to shoe polish/care product Only for smooth leather. No damage of the surface

COLOUR COMMUNICATIONmax. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under light box “Verivide” D65 and TL 84.

No visible shade variation accepted within pairs (shoe to shoe)

4rubbing= 10 cycles



To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching lamps (D65, TL 84, F)

page 15 All other components


3.5 dry

marginal change after 51.200 cycles, no formation of holes

wet

marginal change after 12.800 cycles, no formation of holes

3.19

30.000 cycles

3.203.21

3.223.23



3.25

3.26 heel attachment4 COLOUR FASTNESS4.3

4.3 a rubbing dry =100 cycles 4.3 b

4.4 c

4.5 b

4.6 to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test)

55.1

5.2

No visible shade variation accepted within pairs (shoe to shoe)

Shoes

characteristic features minumum requirement

abrasion resistance

for heel lining:

for heel lining:

determination of flex resistance for outsoles< 10 mm

upper sole adhesion shoes: cap > 300N bale > 200 N pump: cap >200 N bale > 100 N

tear strength for outsole at bootleg >3,0 N/mm

pull out strength for buckles and straps > 150N

slip resistanceacceptance angle

dry: >/= 15°floor marking of outsole 4

3.24 determination of flex resistance upper material synthetic material, artifical leather:

rubber boot

to water

> 500N

3-4

textile lining 4rubbing wet = 50 cycles 2-3




lamps (D65, TL 84, F)

to rubbing

3-4

COLOUR COMMUNICATIONmax. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under light box “Verivide” D65 and TL 84.No shade variation accepted within one garment.

to perspiration 3-4

Documents

Material Minimum Requirements Revised 08-2009_xls (1)