8/14/2019 Max Mara's Sporty Vibe
1/1
Fashion**
IIInternational Herald Tribune
Friday, September 29, 2006
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
The worlds most prestigious conference onthe business of fashion
and luxury
Sponsors:
For further information:
Brenda Erdmann HagertyInternational Herald Tribune
Worldwide Events
Tel: +44 20 7510 5707
Email: [email protected]
The International Herald Tribune will hold its sixth annual
luxury conference at
The Ritz-Carlton, Istanbul on December 7 & 8.
Suzy Menkes, the IHTs renowned fashion editor, will give the
opening address at
Istanbul Luxury 06 and will be joined by an illustrious line-up
of leaders and key
decision-makers from the world of fashion and luxury.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Convened by:
Keynote addresseswill begivenby:
Franois-Henri PinaultChairmanandCEO,PPR
BernardFornasPresidentand CEO,Cartier International
ErmenegildoZegnaChiefExecutiveOff icer,ErmenegildoZegna
Gianfranco FerrCo-Founder, HonoraryChairman andCreative
Director, GianfrancoFerrSpA
Otherillustriousspeakersare:
MassimoFerrettiPresident,Aeffe Group
MatteoCordero di MontezemoloManagingDirector,Charme
Investments,
andVice President,PoltronaFrau Group
KimL.Winser, OBEPresidentand CEO,Aquascutum
CemBoynerViceChairman and CEO,Boyner Holding
NormanStoneProfessor ofHistory, KoUniversity
ThomasHeatherwickFounderand Director, HeatherwickStudio
PaolaAntonelliCurator, Designand Architecture
Museumof ModernArt, NewYork
AliceRawsthornDesignCritic, International HeraldTribune
SourenMelikianArtEditor, International HeraldTribune
Designer debateby:
RifatOzbek
HusseinChalayan
NicoleFarhi
luxury06
By Jessica Michault
T he Max Mara collection succeededin finding its own comfort
zonewith this seasons dominant trends.
It gave what couldhave been straightforward short dresses in
cream, blackor olive a littlesomethingextrawith abroad stroke of
sliver or gold across alightly pleated front, or interpreted
the1980sretro movementthrough graphicpainterly prints.
Sweaters were of the three-quartersleeve nubby/shaggy variety
and thelines sporty vibe was felt in the widebands of fabric used
as a pant cuff,waistband or shoulder strap.
Models with slicked-back hair andcalf-high gladiator sandals
didnt dis-tract from the wellcut summer jacketsthat had pockets
aplenty and large
cinched collars. But for evening MaxMara went into metallic
overload witha choice of sliver, goldor copper gowns
that piled on even more glitz withchunky mirror-encrusted
shoulders t raps .
For Alessandro dellAcqua there isonly one kindof woman:She
wholikesher rock and roll louda nd her dressesshort. But most
important sheju st canthaveenoughanimal prints in her walk-in
closet. You nameit, DellAcqua hadit: leopard, python, giraffe, even
Dal-matian dots made an appearance onthe runway. The designer kept
to hishabitual color palette of black, whiteand nude, but added a
bit of the 80swith a shock of lime green or lemonyellow in body
suits that peeked outfrom under some of the designs.
There was alsoa hard-and-soft dual-ity in the show as delicate
fabrics likechiffonor lace were paired with metalmesh or branded
with even more ani-
mal prints. For fans of the designersaesthetic this show was
spot on.International Herald Tribune
TrendSpot
For Brioni and Molinari, androgynyMILAN
The man/woman thing justwont go away. But there arepositive and
negative ways ofre-approaching the andro-
gyny that dominated the 1980s.At Brioni, the designer Cristina
Ortiz
had an intriguing take: she used thefinest details of the mens
tailoring andshirtconstruction that is the soul of theBrioni brand.
So she turned bastingstitches, that would appear under thelapel of
a custom-made suit, but used
silver threadfor a decorative effect.Out of the malecloset,
sheprised the
pleated bibof a dress shirtor theeven-ing vest, abstracted and
formed fromtiny tucks in white cotton.
On the distaff side, shorts wererounded rompers, but with sharp
pleatinserts. The colors came from the in-spirationof the seaona
dullday andin-cludeda silvery,mauve leather that wasalso used for
anew range of bags.
I wanted something very masculinewith the feelingof a strong
woman
but not to have her dressed likehim,saidOrtiz.
For RossellaTarabini at AnnaMolin-ari, thestory was more
superficial:themasculine/feminine as tailored briefjackets and
skinny pants versus ultrashort skirts in a ballshape
andfabricssheer to the point ofi ndecency.
It made for a show that was toostrident on the female side to
show amodern attitude toward women.
Suzy Menkes
Designer theaters take center stageMILAN
When Versace inaugurates its newtheater on Friday, withnot only
ashow but a concert by Prince, it en-dorses what could be seen as a
hottrendamong Italiandesigners: makingperformance art out of
fashion.
Versaces transformation of the oldTeatro Excelsior, in the
courtyard ofthePiazza Vetrain thehip areaaroundPortaTicinese still
has a way to go,be-foreits egg-shapedcupolaand 10 yearsof
abandonment is transformed into
thesleekbuildingenvisaged by thear-chitect RoccoMagnoli. But
itsfuture isalready projected as an art house forthe cultural
events and connectionsthat GianniVersace himselfheld dear.
The Versace initiative follows otherspectacularor
dramaticred-velvetcur-tain projects. First was Giorgio
Armani,whosebuildingby TadaoAndoopenedin 2001, contains a theater
in baredstone, in harmony with the designersmodernist approach
tocloth ing.
Next up on the boards except that
his stage was usually mirrored orcoveredin white fur was Tom
Ford.Duringhis stint at Gucci withDomenicodeSole theduo signed
upfor the useof atheater in the Piazza Oberdan by theHotelDiana,
where shows are stillheld.
Dolce & Gabbanas Metropol theaterin their rock-the-baroque
style openedfor shows last year, proving that Italiandesigners see
themselves as maestrosof showmanship.
Suzy Menkes
Christopher Moore/KarlProuse; inset,courtesy ofVersace
The interior of thenew Versace theater inMilan; inset, an
artists rendering of thefacade of the theater.
BRIONI ANNA MOLINARIChristopher Moore/KarlProuseCourtesy
ofBrioni
Max Maras sporty vibe
MA X MA R A
