MEGAFARI: Tanzania: birding amongst the beests

5 – 15 April 2010 (11 days), Leader: Keith Barnes, Custom trip

A Long-crested Eagle takes flight. Stunning bird, stunning moment and my best

photo of the trip

Photos by Keith Barnes. All photos taken on this trip.

Introduction

This was the first leg of the Megafari – a true trip of a lifetime for most of the

participants. Our Tanzania leg ended up being the most successful Northern Tanzania

trip we had ever run, netting an incredible 426 bird species in only 11 days. Not only did

we see loads of birds, but we revelled in the myriad photographic opportunities that we

were presented with, and also indulged in an incredible mammal viewing marathon of

epic proportions, seeing thousands upon thousands of migrating wildebeest, and soaking

up both game and had multiple encounters with predators such as the secretive leopard,

bold lion and slight cheetah. With the rains having fallen recently, the birding was

beyond belief, with all the weavers and bishops as well as wydahs in full breeding swing.

We started off by visiting some arid country near Arusha and then explored the giddy

heights and montane forests of Arusha NP before setting off for the more typical

Northern Tanzania destinations such as Tarangire, Lake Manyara, Ngorongoro Crater and

finally, the Serengeti NP. This tour is perfect for anyone with an interest in the outdoors,

perfect for birders, perfect for non-birding spouses, and perfect for photographers. If you

are looking for one trip to keep anyone and everyone happy, this is it!

Gnu at Ndutu - the great migration is here in April when the females calve and

start moving north

Our next leg of the Megafari headed to Uganda for Shoebill and Rwanda for both Great

Apes (Chimpanzee and Gorilla) as well as the superb Albertine Rift forests at Nyungwe,

with a net result of accumulating an incredible 675 bird species and 62 mammals in just

three-weeks of the Megafari. The Megafari was a boon for spectacular birds and we saw

51 species of bird of prey, 11 species of turaco, 11 species of kingfisher, 10 species of

bee-eater, 12 species of hornbill, and 25 species of sunbird. We also saw the famous

Big-5 mammals and had incredible encounters with Mountain Gorillas and Chimpanzees

amongst 11 species of primates. For the extremely successful Uganda and Rwanda

portion of the tour, click here.

Flamingos, the classic East Africa birding moment. This is Lake Magadi within the

Ngorongoro Crater.

4 April: ARRIVAL Arusha.

5 April: Arusha district – Arusha NP.

6 April: Arusha NP.

7 April: Arusha – Tarangire NP.

8 April: Tarangire NP.

9 April: Lake Manyara to Ngorongoro Crater.

10 April: Ngorongoro Crater NP.

11 April: Ngorongoro Crater – Oldupai – Ndutu (Serengeti ecosystem).

12 April: Ndutu Area.

13 April: Ndutu – Serengeti NP.

14 April: Serengeti NP

15 April: Serengeti NP - Depart Tanzania

5 April: Arusha district – Arusha NP.

As almost everyone had arrived very late last night, we did introductions around the

breakfast table, wolfing down coffee and scoffing muffins, and we started to hear the

dawn-chorus open up just as we were about to depart. In the half light we all scored our

first East African birds, the Spotted Mourning Thrush and Variable Sunbird, while the call

of Crested Francolins and Guineafowl left us no doubt as to which continent we were on.

The inevitable and immediate appearance of a Superb Starling left the Afro-virgins

breathless. And just before we departed a Scarlet-chested Sunbird alit on top of a tree in

full morning light just to get the participants asking ―why are we leaving this place?‖

The Arusha district is a remarkable and varied mosaic of habitats, and today we were to

experience everything from the southern corridor of arid woodland to the moist montane

forests of Mt Meru‘s highlands. Heading east, and not that far from the airport we heard

an ominous clunk, and then some rather horrible sounding grating and the car slowed to

a halt. Zepha, our indestructible and permanently smiling driver gave us a look that was

a kind of ‗don‘t worry, this has happened before‘. As Zepha hauled out his repair gear for

what fortunately was to be the only repair of the trip, we started birding. Red-capped

Larks, Crowned lapwing, Fisher‘s Sparrowlarks, Capped Wheater and Long-tailed Fiscals

were quickly racked up. Before long Zepha had fixed the car and we were on our way.

Red-capped larks were one of the first birds we scored

On the drive an obliging Montagu‘s Harrier passed by the car very close. Soon we had

entered some fantastic drier arid-Acacia woodland and were racking up the new birds

which came thick and fast. Some of the first included a sentinel Eastern Chanting-

Goshawk, a fly-by Namaqua Dove, African Cuckoo, and both Beautiful and Eastern

Violet-backed Sunbirds. We soon reached a lake, with it‘s fringing marshy habitat that

held a lot of water-associated birds, including Pink-backed Pelican, cormorants, many

shorebirds, storks and herons, including a suprise Dimorphic Egret. Along the shoreline

there stood many sentinel African Fish Eagles and a Black-breasted Snake-eagle made a

flyover.

The scrub near the lake produced a trio of mousebird species, including the scarce and

local White-headed Mousebird. Low down we spotted a Little Bee-eater and higher up a

big mobile flock of European Bee-eaters were found moving overhead. An opportunistic

stop also produced a trip-exclusive Rufous-crowned Roller and White-browed Sparrow-

weaver. The flocks moved quickly in the scrub, and despite the heat, the birds remained

active throughout the day, making it difficult to stop birding for lunch. Everyone was

loving the abundance and variety on display, surely Africa‘s arid woodlands are one of

the most productive birding habitats on Earth! As we walked slowly through the

woodland we kept locating more flocks and new species. Quickly we added the orange-

billed and flighty Abyssinian Scimitarbill, stoic Nubian Woodpecker, Black-necked and

Chesnut Weavers, Yellow-throated Petronia, Northern Red-billed, Von Der Decken‘s and

African Gray Hornbills and a trio of barbets, a trip exclusive Black-throated, as well as

stunning Red-and-Yellow and D‘Arnaud‘s. Some seeding grasses revealed Straw-tailed

Whydah, Yellow-rumped and White-bellied Seedeater before we moved closer to the lake

and found some more open habitat. This area was a great place for larks, and we scored

trip-exclusive Singing Bush, Pink-breasted and Chestnut-backed Sparrowlarks. Rattling

Citicolas patrolled the tops of the acacias, while Zittings preferred the short lakeside

stubble. An active flock revealed the feisty Red-fronted Warbler, and Grey Wren-

Warblers called incessantly throughout the day. A late migrant in the form of a Greater

Whitethroat skulked through some scrub, ‗ticking‘ as it went, and a Northern Crombec

succumbed to some vigorous spishing by the leader. A Pygmy Batis was a welcome

addition, especially when it brought along both Slate-coloured Boubou and Rosy-patched

Bush-Shrike to the party. In fact the area was a shrike haven, especially for Palearctic-

breeders, and we saw good numbers of Red-backed, Rufous-tailed and Lesser Gray

Shrikes, and also encountered resident Long-tailed and White-crowned Shrikes.

Eventually we just had to eat, and so despite the good levels of activity we downed binos

and ate. But even a meal could not prevent a lifer as 3 White-bellied Go-away-birds alit

in the tree above us a called as they eyed our tuck.

We shared our lunch with White-bellied Go-away-birds that called “kweeeeaaah”

above our heads as we ate our lunch.

After lunch we moved down to the water‘s edge where we located a raft of gulls that

revealed Lesser Black-backed, Black-headed and Gray-headed, and over the water Gull-

billed and White-winged Terns skimmed in their thousands. The gulls were joined by a

huge flock of 300+ African Skimmers loafing on the sandbank, which turned out to be

our only ones of the trip. A reedbed revealed the local Taveta Golden Weaver, and we

watched them as they were incessantly harassed by a Dideric Cuckoo‘s that was

insistant on her attempts at brood parasitism.

It had been an epic day, and one could tell there were still more birds lurking in the

bushes, but jet-lag had set in, and it was time to head back to Arusha so that we could

get to our lodge by dusk. Entering Arusha NP, we got our first taste of Africa‘s

charismatic megafauna. We timed our final stop of the day for a little piece of heaven

called Serengeti Ndogo (Little Serengeti), a small grassy plain that is always thronging

with wildlife. Its fun and I kind of keep it a secret, so that after a day full of incredible

birds you think the day is over and you are mentally shutting down, to show up at this

place at sunset, it‘s the final adrenalin rush, and to have your participants enthralled

with their lifer zebras, common warthog, giraffe and buffalo is a lot of fun. On our way

up to the lodge in the twilight we flushed a few Slender-tailed Nightjars and also a single

Bat Hawk, which unfortunately most folks missed.

I normally have one final surprise up my sleve, the positively plush surroundings of our

lodge. It‘s an extremely luxurious affair, with a view of Mt. Meru on one side and a plain

full of buffalos on the other. Hadeda‘s call going to roost, and a gin and tonic in your

hand further enhances the most idyllic setting possible, and a wonderful end to the most

brilliant introductory day to Africa one could ever hope for.

The lodge in Arusha NP is a stunning affair: buffalo graze the lawns and Mt.

Meru looms up behind you.

After being escorted to our rooms to clean up (one needs Maasai gaurds to get you to-

and-from the rooms to the dining complex as buffalo and elephants are common!) we

enjoyed a fabulous 3-course dinner. Doing the checklist reveled that we had clocked up

168 species! As we went to bed, exhausted but completly satisfied, Wood Owls hooted in

the distance, and we scored a noisy pair of silver galagos (a primitive primate related to

lemurs) in the flashlight leaping in the trees outside our rooms.

6 April: Arusha NP.

We spent the day exploring the montane grasslands, lakes and forests of Arusha NP. We

enjoyed the serene nature of the lodge first thing in the morning, watching the buffalo

wading through the long grass and giraffes appearing like sentinels on the horizon then

loping slowly towards us. A Hamerkop alit on a huge nest just along the rivulet next to

the lodge. At the entrance gate we located Singing and Trilling Cisticolas, Bronze and

Collared Sunbirds and Baglafecht Weaver.

Baglafecht Weavers are common in Arusha NP.

Our main aim was to spend time in forest and see montane forest species that we would

have little other chance to see on our tour. En route we located a brilliantly colourful

African Pygmy Kingfisher in drier woodland, but we were soon at a campsite and were

able to alight from the vehicles and walk around, stetching our legs and giving us a

decent chance at locating birds. It is always a little exciting walking in a place where

megafauna lurks! Some of the first birds we located were Trumpeter Hornbill and African

Goshawk. However the most pleasing finds of the morning were a very respionsive pair

of Hartlaub‘s Turacos and a spectacular and well-behaved Narina Trogon,

A sombre Brown Woodland-Warbler and ‗goggle-eyed‘ Broad-ringed White-eye, Forest

Batis, Stripe-cheeked Bulbul, and a vocal and eventually submissive Rueppell‘s Robin-

Chat were added to our tally. A Tambourine Dove played harder-to-get and was only

seen by a few. On our trip up to the higher reaches of the mountain we saw some huge

troops of Olive Baboon and we stopped to admire the antics of these odd primates. We

also got extremely lucky when we rounded a corner to find a Delagorgue‘s Pigeon sitting

up above the road. This rare bird did something even more unexpected by dropping

down onto the road to feed. Odd behaviour indeed!

A rare bird doing a rare thing. Delegorgue’s Pigeon sits feeding on the ground in

Arusha NP.

Farther up we located Scaly Francolin and a suni antelope right next to the road, and

both sloped off into the undergrowth quietly. The adjacent forest revealed stunning

Cinnamon-chested Bee-eaters, White-eared Barbet, Green-backed Honeyguide, White-

eyed Slaty-Flycatcher, Brown-crowned Tchagra and Tropical Boubou, African Black-

headed Oriole, Grey-headed Negrofinch, Rufous-backed Mannikin and Streaky Seed-

eater. Flocks included Black-headed, Buff-throated and Gray Apalises as well as Red-

winged, Kenrick‘s and Wallers Starlings.

Upon reaching Ngurduto Crater, we located Black Stork, Western Marsh Harrier and Gray

Crowned-Crane deep within the marshes of the crater and Black Sawwing and Scarce

Swift circling overhead. A White-starred Robin called nearby while we had our lunch and

a Rameron Pigeon was found sitting quietly in the canopy hoping to avoid detection.

On our way down we explored the more open woodlands around the Momela Lakes,

adding Moustached Grass-Warbler, and Dusky Turtle-Dove. The lakes themselves

revealed Southern Pochard and African Jacana as well as the occasional bushbuck and

waterbuck. Open grasslands supported White-fronted Bee-eaters scattered on random

treetops, Brown-hooded Kingfisher, Long-billed Pipit and African Stonechat in the

afternoon. But the highlight was probably the many hundreds of giraffes we saw around

every corner, surely there is no place in Africa where these strange creatures are more

abundant than here?

Weirdo!

7 April: Lark Plains - Tarangire.

We left Arusha in the pre-dawn this morning, and found an Abyssinian Nightjar on

departure, good reward for our ‗early worm catches the bird‘ effort. Another success

came with a covey of very co-operative Scaly Francolin next to the road. In the half

light, however, we had to move off pretty quickly as it is important to get to the lark

plains before it heats up. After a brief stop in Arusha for fuel we were at the lark plains

in no time. Within moments of arriving, we had located Short-tailed Lark, our first

specialty for this region. The plains area quickly revealed all our lark quarry including

Rufous-naped, Foxy, Fisher‘s, Red-capped and Somali Short-toed, and eventually we had

great views of a small flock of the highly sought-after Beesleys Lark. I worked

extensively on the taxonomy of these birds in the late 90‘s and this resulted in them

being recognised as the most threatened species in East Africa, with probably less than

100 individuals remaining. So it was great to catch up with them and soak up great

views of this rare little critter. I was also reasonably satisfied with the photo I got below.

The deluge in rains probably meant that they were enjoying a good (and much needed

for such a rare bird) breeding season.

Beesley’s Lark, the rarest bird in East Africa with possibly only 100 remaining?

However the plains support many other species too, and the omnipresent Capped

Wheatear and African Pipits cannot be ignored. We located both Double-banded and

Temminck‘s Coursers in the area and encountered our first wild Ostiches on the plains

amongst the impalas and Thompson‘s gazelles. Small flocks of Chestnut-bellied

Sandgrouse flushed on numerous occasions and a varietys of shrikes adorned any snag

more then 1 m in height. The plains were also a magnet for raptors and we saw many

migrating Lesser Kestrels passing through hunting for insects on the move. A pair of

Secretarybirds drew us to the edge of the plains where lightly bushed savanna held

Yellow-bellied Eremomela and Kenya Rufous Sparrow as well as the diminutive and cute

Pygmy Falcon. Here we witnessed a very cool sight, the tangling of two giant raptors, a

Steppe and Tawny Eagle collided in mid air and harssed each other while lower down a

Shikra took it‘s chances hunting for pipits and larks.

Steppe Eagle (below) in mid-air brawl with Tawny Eagle (Mary Vaughn)

We left the lark plains and made our way towards Tarangire River Camp. En-route we

located a stunning Black-bellied Bustard, flocks of White Stork getting ready for the long

journey north and on rocky outcrops a few Shalow‟s Wheatears. As we approached the

moister woodland closer to tarangire the avifauna started to change, and we saw our first

Hilderbrant‟s Starlings and Bare-faced Go-away-birds. The bush also revealed some

Northern Tanzanian endemics in the form of Yellow-collared Lovebird, and Rufous-tailed

Weaver. The latter was Chuck‟s 5000th world bird and although he was not too impressed

with theis sombre number they all count and this one is a local endemic. Some rank and

wetter swampy vegetation held breeding colonies of Golden-backed Weaver, Red-headed

and Cardinal Quelea, and Yellow-crowned Bishop.

Bare-faced Go-away-bird

Near Lake Manyara, where we were staying, we started seeing large herds of zebra and

wildebeest being chased by people who don‟t want the wild ungulates mixing with their cattle

and potentially passing on disease. The entrance road to our lodge was flooded and the

palm savanna revealed a surprise Grey Kestrel and we saw a distinctive yellow-winged bat

fly into the swamps. The roadside was flooded and seeing dry country birds like coursers

and sandgrouse surrounded by water was a strange sight. Our nightdrive was not too

eventful, but did reveal our first spotted hyaena.

Wet Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse take flight near Lake Manyara.

8 April: Tarangire NP.

A leasurly breakfast meant we could see Collared Palm Thrush and zebras at poking

distance with Lake Manyara shimmering in the distance.

The camp at Tarangire had Zebras outside the tents and the Red-necked Spurfowl was a

common local resident.

Tanangire is well known as a locality that supports several of Tanzania‟s endemic birds, and

in addition to us racking up more time with Yellow-collared Lovebird and Rufous-tailed

Weaver we also located several Ashy Starlings, including a few right at the entrance tot he

reserve.

Two Tanzanian endemics, Ashy Starling (left) and Rufous-tailed Weaver (right) are both

common in Tarangire NP

The park also supports a gamut of seedeaters and the magical Eastern Paradise Whydah,

with it‟s ridiculous tail following the bird as it sails through the sky and Black-faced Waxbill,

Red-cheeked and Blue-capped Cordon Blue, Black Bishop and Speckle-fronted Weaver

were all seen. The reserve is excellent for both gamebirds and raptors, and we had many

encounters with both adult and baby Red-necked, Yellow-necked, Crested and Hilderbrant‟s

Spurfowl, as well as several new raptors in the form of African Hawk-eagle, Gabar Goshawk,

African Harrier-Hawk, Bateleur, and scavengers following the game: Lappet-faced Vulture,

Rueppell‟s Griffon and White-backed Vulture.

Yellow-throated Spurfowl (left) and Water Thicknee (right) were some photo highlights at

Tarangire today.

White-headed Buffalo-weavers were indulging in some strange begging behaviour (top) and

this stunning Magpie Shrike (below) sat on stalks of scrub.

This park is also excellent for elephant, and we had a fair few encounters with these giant

beasts of the African savanna. From a bird perspective we had stunning encounters with

White-headed Buffalo-Weaver indulging in some odd wing-lifting behavious (see photo),

African Golden Oriole, Magpie Shrike, Slate-coloured Boubou, Banded Parisoma, the sleek

grey and rusty Silverbird, garrulous Northern Pied Babbler, Woodland and Gray-headed

Kingfishers, Pearl-spotted Owlet, White-browed Coucal, Levaillant‟s Cuckoo and Red-

bellied Parrot. Dwarf Mongoose were everywhere in the park, but the very best experience

was a pair of ridiculously tame Black-faced Sandgrouse that simply refused to leave the

edge of the road we were driving on. We returned to the lodge quite satisfied.

The stunning Black-faced Sandgrouse were almost refused to leave the roadside as we

drove past them.

9 April: Lake Manyara NP – Ngorongoro Crater.

A nice pre-dawn breakfast was enjoyed with an incredible spread of goodies. One is

constantly amazed as to how they manage to get such an amazing spread of things into

these wildedrness areas. We were off with our first real stop at the huge heronry next to

the entrance to Lake Manyara NP. Here Yellow-billed Storks and Pink-backed Pelicans

breed in huge numbers and there are hobs of them flying to-and-fro. While waiting for

Zepha to process our entance permits we nailed Crowned Hornbill, Yellow-bellied

Greenbul, and Amythest Sunbird all from within the carpark. A curious troop of Sykes‟ blue

monkeys were watching for unguarded cars as an opportubnity for a quick snack.

The heronry offered great opportunities for photos of Pink-backed Pelican (above) and

Yellow-billed Stork (below).

Before long, we had entered the park, and we drove through a sunken ground-water

forest full of giant figs, nyalaberry trees and the characteristic yellow-barked fever trees,

an eerie and fabulous habitat. Here we started to find forest birds including a brilliant

pair of Silvery-cheeked Hornbills that alighted in the canopy only a few feet away from

us, while a Purple-crested Turaco croaked in the distance, and an Eastern Nicator gave

his characteristic call nearby, but remained well hidden. In this forest we also located a

herd of ridiculously tame elephants, one even rubbed the car as he walked passed us.

They looked as placid and as laid-back as you could ever expect these animals to get.

A male Silvery-cheeked Hornbill (above) and African Elephants in more details than you

could ever want (below).

The road left the forest behind and snaked closer to the edge of the lake, in the distance

the horizon was stained pink with millions of flamingoes, this being one of the places

where they breed in huge numbers. The irony that we were looking at over 1 million

flamingos and were unable to identify them in the distant heat—haze shimmer was not

lost on us. A few common reedbuck grazed placidly in the lake edge and we were soon

scanning for new species. We clocked up Great White Pelican, many herons and storks

and other waterbirds, our first Glossy Ibis and Comb Duck, a slew of good shorebirds,

including good numbers of Curlew Sandpiper coming into breeding plumage. This spot

also revealed good numbers of Collared Pratincole and hippos lounging around and

guffawing in the swamps. The day was moving on quickly and so we worked some drier

woodland en-route to a good lunch stop, the mixed woodland held African Paradise

Flycatcher, Yellow-breasted Apalis, Buff-bellied Warbler, Abyssinian White-eye, Vitelline

Masked Weaver and Red-billed Firefinch. Our lunch-stop revealed a great bird in the

form of a roosting Eurasian Nightjar, and also a very co-operative pair of hungry Red-

and-yellow Barbets that posed for photos.

This handsome pair of Red-and-Yellow Barbets accompanied us during a lunchstop at Lake

Manyara.

After lunch we started heading up into the Crater Highlands, the habitat, and

temperature changes quiote quickly, and soon we were encountering birds we had seen

a few days ago at Arusha NP. A quick stop for birding, and also the opportunity to get a

caffeine-injecting coffee at Gibb‘s Farm was welcome. The main reward here was a

spectacular, nest-building Grosbeak Weaver and the occasionally tricky to track down

Brown-headed Apailis. Mountain Thrush, Cape Robin-chat, and White-eyed Slaty

Flycatcher also patrolled the gardens.

The Grosbeak Weaver was breeding in the gardens at Gibb’s Farm.

It wasn‘t long before we were making our way into the Ngorongoro Conservation Area,

one of the greatest wilderness areas left on earth, and the anticipation was mounting.

The upper rim of the crater is surrounded by montane forest, and because of the

presence of large mammals one has to bird the forest from within the car, which brings

challanges of its own. Our trip up to the rim revealed a melanistic Mountain Buzzard,

Red-rumped Swallow, White-tailed Blue Flycatcher, Mountain Yellow Warbler, Eastern

Double-collared Sunbird, Gray-headed Negrofinch, and one of the birds of the day a handful

of yellow-and-black Oriole Finches. Reaching the rim of the crater a White-necked Raven

soared over us and gave its guttural call, announcing our arrival. It is always a poigniant

moment, and when you stare across the 25 km floor of the crater and can see endless ranks

of wildebeest, zebras, elephants, buffalo and other charismatic megafauna, you know you

have arrived at one of the greatest spots on Earth. As the sun started setting and the mist

descended we hear the characteristic sounds of a turaco. A bit of playback brought a

Shalow‟s Turaco into view, but the poor light prevented us getting the classic looks we would

enjoy a few days later, all we saw were crimson-winges spreading into the dense mist as it

dropped from it‟s perch and dived into the nether reaches of the crater. We checked into

our hotel, but before dinner Keith heard a Verreaux‟s Eagle Owl hooting outside and we all

enjoyed great views of these giants.

10 April: Ngorongoro Crater.

Breakfast brought some new birds, and from within the restaurant, as the orange light of

dawn filtered into the crater, we saw Familiar Chat, Hunter‟s Cisticola, and Streaky Seed-

eater. But we chomped our bacon and were champing at the bit to get into one of the

greatest mammal havens in Africa. However, while we were hoping for some encounters of

the kitty-kind we were far from oblivious to birds, and an opportunistic stop to look at the

black-backed race of Baglafecht Weaver brought amazing looks at a winged-jewel in the

form of a Golden-winged Sunbird. We soon added his cousin, the electric green Malachite

Sunbird as we started down the slopes of the crater.

Wow, wow, wow. Golden-winged Sunbird at the top of Ngorongoro Crater (Mary Vaughn)

Once on the crater floor, we started bumping into mammals of all kinds, particularly

Thompson‟s and Grant‟s gazelles, zebras and blue wildebeest. The monotonous Pectoral-

patch Cisticola, as well as scattered Amur Falcon and Eurasian Hobby were amongst the

morning‟s other treats.

The moister areas attracted Red-collared and Fan-tailed Widowbirds as well as the “trinck”

call of the seldom ground-dwelling African Quailfinch. A little later a group of Ostriches struck

the most bizarre pose and lent themselves to an interesting photo op.

We encounted several Hyaena sloping around before we met up with our first big cat. A

pride of lions were located doing what lions do best – sleep! However we noticed a male

mate-guarding a female and decided to stay to try watch them mate. The spent a lot of time

doing nothing, and we did not end up seeing them mate, but we did see a couple of

interesting interactions between these “King of the beasts”.

Got to keep those paws clean (above) and “I am not ready for you yet”, a female defends

herself from the over-anxious advances of a male (below).

We then headed via a few ponds and lakes that had martins and were good for waterbirds

and shorebirds, where we added Yellow-billed Duck and Cape Teal, as well as Pied Avocet.

Next stop was for one of the very few black rhinos remaining in Tanzania, and Ngorongoro is

one of the few reliable localities in Northern Tanzania for this special Big-5 mammal. A little

later we also saw a Cheetah slinking over a rise just before we made it to our lunch stop.

Lunch was a highlight with a Yellow-billed Kite showing consummate skill in diving down and

lifting Nancy‟s chicken right off her tin-foil plate. Amazing dexterity.

The Black Rhino is easier to see at Ngorongoro than anywhere else in Northern Tanzania.

After lunch we explored Lake Magadi, and wader man Brian located Chestnut-banded

Plover amongst the many Kittlitz‟s Plovers on the saline shores, giving him great joy. We

also added a few Marsh Sandpiper here. Some nearby some moist grasslands yielded

Northern Ant-eating Chat, and a stunning pair of Rosy-throated Longclaw. We also lucked

out with two new big birds, a stunningly close Gray Crowned-Crane and the amazingly hefty

Kori Bustard that patrolled the grasslands looking for locusts and other large invertebrates to

eat. As the day drew to a close we were a pretty satisfied bunch, we were now safari-birding

and loving every minute of it.

Gray Crowned-Crane (above) and Kori Bustard (below) are the bird equivalent of the Big-5.

11 April: Ngorongoro to Ndutu

After breakfast we birded the hotel gardens and crawled along the crater rim adding Bar-

throated Apalis, Eastern Mountain Greenbul and Tacazze Sunbird, as well as more brilliant

looks at Golden-winged Sunbird. A stop for Jackson‟s Widowbird revealed only Red-collared

Widows and a surprising Stout Cisticiola. However, after a bit of effort, we did locate the

Jackson‟s Widowbird hunkering down in the wind. Dropping off the crater rim the vegetation

quickly changes to a mosaic of grassland and Maasai settlement and eventually morphs into

drier woodland. A stop at Oldupai Gorge is a must, not only is this one of the great Cradle of

Mankind sites for Anthropology, but the museum holds remnants of many other cool

creatures that have wondered these plains in the last 10 million years. It is also the last of

the really arid woodland you find on tour and so a last chance to locate some of the dry-

country species. Our stop was pretty successful, with Taita Fiscal giving itself up on the way

in and Lesser Spotted eagle, Eastern Chanting-Goshawk, Pied Cuckoo, European Roller,

Red-fronted Tinkerbird, Foxy Lark, Icterine Warbler, Eastern Violet-backed Sunbird,

Beautiful Sunbird, Purple Granadier, Steel-blue Whydah and Southern Grosbeak Canary all

being recoded in about an hours birding at midday!

Our route took us through open plains and we started seeing thronging masses of sildebeest

on the open Ndutu plains, we also started seeing vultures, Eurasian and Greater Kestrel,

and scored a surprise Spotted Thick-knee and Cape Crow at the roadside. A spectacular

Yellow-throated Sandgrouse was located amongst the many Chestnut-bellieds. Aproaching

Ndutu the fringing woodland offers a different suite of birds and the small flocks of Fisher‟s

Lovebird and out last endemic, the Gray-breasted Spurfowl as well as surprising numbers of

Great-spotted Cuckoo moving through brough the day to a suitable conclusion. We

overnighted in the fabulous Ndutu Lodge, and the resident common genets, which live inside

the lodge, came out on cue to be photographed by all and sundry just before a wonderful

dinner.

Yellow-throated Sandgrouse are scattered at lower densities across the Serengeti Plains.

Huge numbers of female Wildebeest (500,000) calve in these open grasslands in February

and then start moving again in mid April, when we visit. The common genet (below) is a

resident at Ndutu Lodge.

12 April: Ndutu

These amazing woodlands and plains are for me, the jewel in the crown of the southern

Serengeti. Here one can explore wild areas in ways you cannot within the rule-dominated

national park. We departed early and spent much time searching for cats. The early moring

proved to be slightly dissapoining with little found. But we enjoyed a stunning picnic

breakfast on top of a kopjie that we scaled and had bacon and egg sandwiches and lots of

other goodies in the sublime surroundings of the Serengeti ecosystem.

Can breakfast get any better? Bacon and eggs on top of a hill with a million Wildebeest

somewhere below!

Shortly after brekky however our luck changed. First we located a group of three young male

cheetahs lazing uneder some bushes, they had killed fairly recently, and their blood-stained

muzzles told a tale. A little later we discovered a female with an older young male, and they

occupied the rest of our moring. After many hundreds of photos and several attempts by the

young male to mount his mother, as well as some kittyplay, where they horsed around for a

little we had spent about 3 hours with cheetahs that morning and we‟d decided to leave them

alone.

With 5 Cheetah this morning including a batchler group (above) and a female with a frisky

teenage cub (below) we were happy to head back to the lodge.

With all the game and predators around there was the inevitable deluge of raptors and

scavangers. A young Martial Eagle perched up. Vultures were everywhere and we found

several carcasses being torn to shreds by groups of vultures, including Rueppell‟s, Hooded,

White-headed and the fearsome Lappet-faced.

The nearby woodland delivered a few choice goodies, although adding species now was

quite tough, but we did see Red-fronted Barbet and Black-lored Babbler. In the late

afternoon we headed off in a different direction and found a stunning Three-banded Courser

in the thicker woodland.

13-14 April: Serengeti NP

With the morning light perfect, photographing a resident Fisher‟s Lovebirds while the car was

being packed seemed almost obligatory. Also, shortly after we left the lodge we found a very

photogenic group of Bat-eared Foxes that seemed too cute for their own collective good.

Fisher’s Lovebird in the Ndutu parking lot (above) and bat-eared foxes (below) had to

compete for the cutest-critter of the morning award.

Now at this stage of a trip it starts getting hard to add species, but we slowly racked up a few

more as we progressed, and were happy that we could dedicate ourselves to the mammals

of this amazing place. Our lunch stop brough duetting Usambiro Barbet, and on our way to

the lodge we stayed in, we scored an incredible flock of Gray-crested Helmet-shrike, much

to Keith‟s delight as this was a bogey bird for him and a lifer!

The local Usambiro Barbet (above), a Serengeti Plains specialty, and the incredible

accommodation we stayed at inside the Serengeti NP, a luxurious dream where despite

running a fast-paced tour I decided to indulge in a bubble-bath! It’s hell in Africa.

We tried hard for leopard all day, but only succeeded with more lions. The Serengeti

definitely has a lot of Tse-tse flys and they can be annoying buggers. But even the Tse-tse‟s

provided their moment of hilarity.

We stopped when a stunning pair of White-bellied Bustard walked in front of our vehicle, and

excited gasps and camera-shutters clicking suggested enthralled participants. Tse-tse‟s,

however, like raiding stationary cars with open windows, and they did so with aplomb on this

occasion. Mary said to her husband, “Quick Larry, roll up the window”, Larry, engrossed in

his photography, asked, “Why sweetie?”. Mary replied in an increasingly shrill voice, “They

can fly in the window, land on your arm, and bite you at any time”. The look on Larry‟s face

suggested he‟d though his wife had gone a little mad, and he ignored her. Mary, increasingly

frustrated, said “Larry, they are dangerous!”. And Larry, quizzically and very worried said,

“The bustards are dangerous, and can fly in the window?”

Zepha, our brilliant safari-guide and driver cracked up, like I have never seen anyone crack

up. It must have been 5 minutes of solid tear-enducing laughter from him. The landcruiser

rocked from side-to-side with Zepha, tears streaming down his face, unable to stop himself

imaging visions of vicious bustards ripping a group of tourists to pieces in the Serengeti. It

was a moment of comic relief that was not atypical with this awesomely goodnatured set of

trip participants that made this trip such a joy to lead.

Over the next day, our main quarry was leopard, to wrap up the Big-5 and big cat experience

everyone has grown to expect from East Africa‟s Megaparks. The flooded grasslands and

Acacia woodlands also provided us with a few good, high quality birds including Red-

throated Tit, Coqui Francolin, Common Quail, African Crake, Meyer‟s Parrot, Black Coucal,

Tanzania Red-billed Hornbill, Flappet Lark, White-headed Sawwing, Rufous Chatterer,

Arrow-marked Babbler, Croaking Cisticola, Marico Sunbird, and Gray-headed Silverbill.

On our second to last morning we found both a male and female leopard, draped in trees in

the classic style. It was a dream ending to a dream trip. I don‟t think I could have scripted it

better.

15 April: Serengeti NP - Arusha

With the trip over, it was an early start and a drive back through the park to the airstrip at

Seronera. Here we said goodbye to Zepha, who was nothing short of phenomenal at finding

birds and mammals, driving and getting us through some tricky situations, and just being an

incredibly nice man. Thanks Zeph, for an awesome trip.

As the little airplane took off we saw columns of wildebeests and zebras moving over the

plains, some elephants frolicked in a stream and giraffe‟s loped across the woodlands. We

passed Ngorongoro and were able to bid that farewell too. On arrival in Arusha a few of us

began a return journey home, and the remainder carried on to the Uganda and Rwanda leg

of this epic Megafari adventure. If you are interested in wild places, and interested in wildlife

beyond the birds, or have a spouse who is not a birder, but want to see over 400 species of

bird in 11 days, then do this trip. It is undoubtedly my favourite, and each time I do it it

reminds me why!

A male leopard was one of two different leopards we saw on our second to last day in

Serengeti NP (above). The local Tanzania Red-billed Hornbill (lower left) and showy and

noisy Coqui Francolin (lower right) were star avian attraction of the park.

BIRD LIST

Taxonomy and nomenclature follow: Clements, James F. 2000. Birds of the World: A

Checklist. Fifth Edition. Vista, CA: Ibis Publishing Co. Includes recent updates.

All the birds on this list were seen by at least one person in the group other than the leader,

except those marked with an „LO‟ = leader only or 'HO' = heard only. 417 bird species were

recorded on the tour.

OSTRICHES: Struthionidae Ostrich Struthio camelus PELICANS: Pelecanidae Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus Pink-backed Pelican Pelecanus rufescens CORMORANTS: Phalacrocoracidae Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo Long-tailed Cormorant Phalacrocorax africanus HERONS, EGRETS, AND BITTERNS: Ardeidae Gray Heron Ardea cinerea Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala Purple Heron Ardea purpurea Great Egret Ardea alba Black Heron Egretta ardesiaca Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia Little Egret Egretta garzetta Dimorphic Egret Egretta dimorpha Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Striated Heron Butorides striatus Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax HAMERKOPS: Scopidae Hamerkop Scopus umbretta STORKS: Ciconiidae Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibis Black Stork Ciconia nigra Abdim's Stork Ciconia abdimii White Stork Ciconia ciconia Saddle-billed Stork Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis Marabou Stork Leptoptilos crumeniferus IBIS AND SPOONBILLS: Threskiornithidae Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus Hadada Ibis Bostrychia hagedash

Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus African Spoonbill Platalea alba FLAMINGOS: Phoenicopteridae Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus ruber Lesser Flamingo Phoenicopterus minor DUCKS, GEESE AND SWANS: Anatidae White-faced Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna viduata Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiacus Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis Comb Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos Gargany Anas querelu Cape Teal Anas capensis Yellow-billed Duck Anas undulata Red-billed Duck Anas erythrorhyncha Hottentot Teal Anas hottentota Southern Pochard Netta erythrophthalma HAWKS, EAGLES AND KITES: Accipitridae Bat Hawk Macheiramphus alcinus Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus Yellow-billed Kite Milvus aegyptius African Fish-Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer Hooded Vulture Necrosyrtes monachus White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus Rueppell's Griffon Gyps rueppellii Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos tracheliotus White-headed Vulture Trigonoceps occipitalis Black-breasted Snake-Eagle Circaetus pectoralis Brown Snake-Eagle Circaetus cinereus Bateleur Terathopius ecaudatus Western Marsh-Harrier Circus aeruginosus Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus African Harrier-Hawk Polyboroides typus Dark Chanting-Goshawk Melierax metabates Eastern Chanting-Goshawk Melierax poliopterus Gabar Goshawk Micronisus gabar African Goshawk Accipiter tachiro Shikra Accipiter badius Mountain Buzzard Buteo oreophilus Augur Buzzard Buteo augur Lesser Spotted Eagle Aquila pomarina Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis Wahlberg's Eagle Aquila wahlbergi African Hawk-Eagle Hieraaetus spilogaster Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus Martial Eagle Polemaetus bellicosus

Long-crested Eagle Lophaetus occipitalis Crowned Hawk-Eagle Stephanoaetus coronatus HO SECRETARYBIRDS: Sagitarridae Secretary-bird Sagittarius serpentarius FALCONS: Falconidae Pygmy Falcon Polihierax semitorquatus Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni Eurasian Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Greater Kestrel Falco rupicoloides Gray Kestrel Falco ardosiaceus Amur Falcon Falco amurensis Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus FRANCOLINS AND QUAIL: Phasianidae Coqui Francolin Francolinus coqui Crested Francolin Francolinus sephaena Scaly Francolin Francolinus squamatus Hildebrandt's Francolin Francolinus hildebrandti Yellow-necked Francolin Francolinus leucoscepus Gray-breasted Francolin SPE Francolinus rufopictus Red-necked Francolin Francolinus afer Common Quail Coturnix coturnix GUINEAFOWL: Numididae Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris CRANES: Gruidae Gray Crowned-Crane Balearica regulorum RAILS, CRAKES, GALLINULES AND COOTS: Rallidae African Crake Crecopsis egregia Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostris BUSTARDS: Otidae Kori Bustard Ardeotis kori White-bellied Bustard Eupodotis senegalensis Black-bellied Bustard Lissotis melanogaster JACANAS: Jacanidae African Jacana Actophilornis africanus STILTS AND AVOCETS: Recurvirostridae Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta THICK-KNEES: Burhinidae Water Thick-knee Burhinus vermiculatus

Spotted Thick-knee Burhinus capensis COURSERS AND PRATINCOLES: Glareolidae Temminck's Courser Cursorius temminckii Double-banded Courser Smutsornis africanus Three-banded Courser Rhinoptilus cinctus Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola PLOVERS AND LAPWINGS: Charadriidae Blacksmith Plover Vanellus armatus Spur-winged Plover Vanellus spinosus Crowned Lapwing Vanellus coronatus Wattled Lapwing Vanellus senegallus Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius pecuarius Three-banded Plover Charadrius tricollaris Chestnut-banded Plover Charadrius pallidus SANDPIPERS: Scolopacidae Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Little Stint Calidris minuta Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea Ruff Philomachus pugnax GULLS: Laridae Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus Common Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus Gray-headed Gull Larus cirrocephalus TERNS: Sternidae Gull-billed Tern Sterna nilotica White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus SKIMMERS: Rynchopidae African Skimmer Rynchops flavirostris SANDGROUSE: Pteroclidae Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles exustus Yellow-throated Sandgrouse Pterocles gutturalis Black-faced Sandgrouse Pterocles decoratus PIGEONS AND DOVES: Columbidae Rock Dove Columba livia Speckled Pigeon Columba guinea Rameron Pigeon Columba arquatrix Delegorgue's Pigeon Columba delegorguei Dusky Turtle-Dove Streptopelia lugens

African Mourning Dove Streptopelia decipiens Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata Ring-necked Dove Streptopelia capicola Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove Turtur chalcospilos Tambourine Dove Turtur tympanistria Namaqua Dove Oena capensis PARROTS: Psittacidae Fischer's Lovebird SPE Agapornis fischeri Yellow-collared Lovebird SPE Agapornis personatus Meyer's Parrot Poicephalus meyeri Red-bellied Parrot Poicephalus rufiventris TURACOS: Turacidae Schalow's Turaco Tauraco schalowi Hartlaub's Turaco Tauraco hartlaubi Purple-crested Turaco Tauraco porphyreolophus HO Bare-faced Go-away-bird Corythaixoides personatus White-bellied Go-away-bird Corythaixoides leucogaster Eastern Plantain-eater Crinifer zonurus CUCKOOS: Cuculidae Pied Cuckoo Clamator jacobinus Levaillant's Cuckoo Clamator levaillantii Red-chested Cuckoo Cuculus solitarius Black Cuckoo Cuculus clamosus HO African Cuckoo Cuculus gularis Klaas' Cuckoo Chrysococcyx klaas HO African Emerald Cuckoo Chrysococcyx cupreus HO Dideric Cuckoo Chrysococcyx caprius Great Spotted cuckoo Clamator glandiarius Yellowbill Ceuthmochares aereus LO Black Coucal Centropus grillii White-browed Coucal Centropus superciliosus BARN OWLS: Tytonidae Barn Owl Tyto alba OWLS: Strigidae African Scops-Owl Otus senegalensis HO Southern White-faced Owl Ptilopsis granti HO Spotted Eagle-Owl Bubo africanus Verreaux's Eagle-Owl Bubo lacteus African Wood-Owl Strix woodfordii HO Pearl-spotted Owlet Glaucidium perlatum NIGHTJARS: Caprimulgidae Eurasian Nightjar Caprimulgus europaeus Abyssinian (Montane) Nightjar Caprimulgus poliocephalus

Swamp Nightjar Caprimulgus natalensis Slender-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus clarus SWIFTS: Apodidae Scarce Swift Schoutedenapus myoptilus African Palm-Swift Cypsiurus parvus African Swift Apus barbatus Horus Swift Apus horus Little Swift Apus affinis White-rumped Swift Apus caffer MOUSEBIRDS: Colidae Speckled Mousebird Colius striatus White-headed Mousebird Colius leucocephalus Blue-naped Mousebird Urocolius macrourus TROGONS: Trogonidae Narina Trogon Apaloderma narina KINGFISHERS: Alcedinidae Malachite Kingfisher Alcedo cristata African Pygmy-Kingfisher Ispidina picta Gray-headed Kingfisher Halcyon leucocephala Woodland Kingfisher Halcyon senegalensis Brown-hooded Kingfisher Halcyon albiventris Striped Kingfisher Halcyon chelicuti Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis BEE-EATERS: Meropidae White-fronted Bee-eater Merops bullockoides Little Bee-eater Merops pusillus Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater Merops oreobates White-throated Bee-eater Merops albicollis European Bee-eater Merops apiaster ROLLERS: Coraciidae European Roller Coracias garrulus Lilac-breasted Roller Coracias caudata Rufous-crowned Roller Coracias naevia HOOPOES: Upupidae African Hoopoe Upupa africana WOOD-HOOPOES: Phoeniculidae Green Woodhoopoe Phoeniculus purpureus Abyssinian Scimitar-bill Rhinopomastus minor HORNBILLS: Bucerotidae Northern Red-billed Hornbill Tockus erythrorhynchus Tanzanian Red-billed Hornbill Tockus ruahae

Von der Decken's Hornbill Tockus deckeni Crowned Hornbill Tockus alboterminatus African Gray Hornbill Tockus nasutus Trumpeter Hornbill Ceratogymna bucinator Silvery-cheeked Hornbill Ceratogymna brevis Southern Ground-Hornbill Bucorvus leadbeateri BARBETS: Capitonidae White-eared Barbet Stactolaema leucotis Moustached Tinkerbird Pogoniulus leucomystax HO Red-fronted Tinkerbird Pogoniulus pusillus Red-fronted Barbet Tricholaema diademata Black-throated Barbet Tricholaema melanocephala White-headed Barbet Lybius leucocephalus HO Yellow-billed Barbet Trachyphonus purpuratus Red-and-yellow Barbet Trachyphonus erythrocephalus D'Arnaud's Barbet Trachyphonus darnaudii Usambiro Barbet SPE Trachyphoneus usambirensis HONEYGUIDES: Indicatoridae Lesser Honeyguide Indicator minor LO Green-backed Honeybird Prodotiscus zambesiae WOODPECKERS: Picidae Nubian Woodpecker Campethera nubica Golden-tailed Woodpecker Campethera abingoni HO Cardinal Woodpecker Dendropicos fuscescens Bearded Woodpecker Dendropicos namaquus Gray Woodpecker Dendropicos goertae LARKS: Alaudidae Singing Bushlark Mirafra cantillans Rufous-naped Lark Mirafra africana Flappet Lark Mirafra rufocinnamomea Foxy Lark Mirafra alopex Pink-breasted Lark Mirafra poecilosterna Beesley's Lark Chersomanes beesleyi Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix leucotis Fischer's Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix leucopareia Red-capped Lark Calandrella cinerea Somali (Athi) Short-toed Lark Calandrella somalica Short-tailed Lark Pseudalaemon fremantlii SWALLOWS: Hirundidae Bank Swallow Riparia riparia Plain Martin Riparia paludicola Banded Martin Riparia cincta Rock Martin Hirundo fuligula Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii

Lesser Striped-Swallow Hirundo abyssinica Mosque Swallow Hirundo senegalensis Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica White-headed Sawwing Psalidoprocne albiceps Black Sawwing Psalidoprocne holomelas WAGTAILS AND PIPITS: Motacillidae African Pied Wagtail Motacilla aguimp Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava Yellow-throated Longclaw Macronyx croceus Rosy-throated Longclaw Macronyx ameliae Pangani Longclaw Macronyx aurantiigula Plain-backed Pipit Anthus leucophrys African Pipit Anthus cinnamomeus Long-billed Pipit Anthus similis CUCKOO-SHRIKES: Campephagidae Black Cuckoo-shrike Campephaga flava BULBULS: Pycnonotidae Common Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus Eastern (B-headed) Mtn-Greenbul Andropadus nigriceps Stripe-faced (-cheeked) Greenbul Andropadus milanjensis striifaces Yellow-bellied Greenbul Chlorocichla flaviventris HO Eastern Nicator Nicator gularis HO BABBLERS: Timaliidae Rufous Chatterer Turdoides rubiginosus Black-lored Babbler Turdoides sharpei Northern Pied-Babbler Turdoides hypoleucus Arrow-marked Babbler Turdoides jardineii THRUSHES: Turdidae Mountain (Olive) Thrush Turdus olivaceus abyssinicus Spotted Morning Thrush Cichladusa guttata Collared Palm-Thrush Cichladusa arquata Cape Robin-chat Cossypha caffra White-browed Robin-chat Cossypha heuglini Rueppell's Robin-chat Cossypha semirufa Red-backed Scrub-Robin Cercotrichas leucophrys Familiar Chat Cercomela familiaris African Stonechat Saxicola torquata Shalow's (Mourning) Wheatear Oenanthe shalowi Capped Wheatear Oenanthe pileata Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe Northern Anteater-Chat Myrmecocichla aethiops White-starred Robin Pogonocichla stellata FLYCATCHERS: Muscicapidae Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata

African Dusky Flycatcher Muscicapa adusta Silverbird Empidornis semipartitus Pale Flycatcher Bradornis pallidus African Gray Flycatcher Bradornis microrhynchus White-eyed Slaty-Flycatcher Melaenornis fischeri Gray Tit-Flycatcher Myioparus plumbeus MONARCH FLYCATCHERS: Terpsiphonidae White-tailed Blue-Flycatcher Elminia albicauda African Paradise-Flycatcher Terpsiphone viridis WARBLERS: Sylvidae (Sometimes Cisticola, Prinia, Apalis and are placed in Cisticolidae) Singing Cisticola Cisticola cantans Trilling Cisticola Cisticola woosnami Hunter's Cisticola KME Cisticola hunteri Rattling Cisticola Cisticola chiniana Winding Cisticola Cisticola galactotes Stout Cisticola Cisticola robustus Croaking Cisticola Cisticola natalensis Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis Pectoral-patch Cisticola Cisticola brunnescens Tawny-flanked Prinia Prinia subflava Red-fronted Warbler (rare) Urorhipis rufifrons Bar-throated Apalis Apalis thoracica Yellow-breasted Apalis Apalis flavida Black-headed Apalis Apalis melanocephala Buff-throated Apalis Apalis rufogularis Brown-headed Apalis Apalis alticola Gray-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brachyura brevicaudata Gray Wren-Warbler Calamonastes simplex Mountain Yellow Warbler Chloropeta similis African Reed-Warbler Acrocephalus baeticatus HO Lesser Swamp-Warbler Acrocephalus gracilirostris Cinnamon Bracken-Warbler Bradypterus cinnamomeus HO Moustached Grass-Warbler Melocichla mentalis Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla Greater Whitethroat Sylvia communis Banded Warbler (Parisoma) Parisoma boehmi Buff-bellied Warbler Phyllolais pulchella Yellow-bellied Eremomela Eremomela icteropygialis Northern Crombec Sylvietta brachyura Red-faced Crombec Sylvietta whytii Brown Woodland-Warbler Phylloscopus umbrovirens HO Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus Broad-tailed Warbler Schoenicola brevirostris WHITE-EYES: Zosteropidae Broad-ringed (Montane) White-eye Zosterops poliogaster Abyssinian White-eye Zosterops abyssinicus

BATISES AND WATTLE-EYES: Platysteridae Forest Batis Batis mixta Chin-spot Batis Batis molitor Pygmy Batis Batis perkeo HELMETSHRIKES: Prionopidae White Helmetshrike Prionops plumatus Gray-crested Helmetshrike SPE Prionops poliolophus BUSHSHRIKES: Malaconotidae Brubru Nilaus afer Black-backed Puffback Dryoscopus cubla Brown-crowned Tchagra Tchagra australis Tropical Boubou Laniarius aethiopicus Slate-coloured Boubou Laniarius funebris Rosy-patched Bushshrike Rhodophoneus cruentus Sulphur-breasted Bushshrike Telophorus sulfureopectus HO Gray-headed Bushshrike Malaconotus blanchoti SHRIKES: Laniidae Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio Rufous-tailed (Isabelline) Shrike Lanius isabellinus Lesser Gray Shrike Lanius minor Gray-backed Fiscal Lanius excubitoroides Long-tailed Fiscal Lanius cabanisi Taita Fiscal Lanius dorsalis Common Fiscal Lanius collaris Magpie Shrike Corvinella melanoleuca White-rumped Shrike Eurocephalus rueppelli ORIOLES: Oriolidae African Golden Oriole Oriolus auratus African Black-headed Oriole Oriolus larvatus DRONGOS: Drongidae Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis CROWS: Corvidae Cape Crow Corvus capensis Pied Crow Corvus albus White-necked Raven Corvus albicollis TITS: Paridae Red-throated Tit Melaniparus fringillinus STARLINGS: Sturnidae Kenrick's Starling KME Poeoptera kenricki Red-winged Starling Onychognathus morio Waller's Starling Onychognathus walleri

Rueppell's Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis purpuropterus Violet-backed Starling Cinnyricinclus leucogaster Superb Starling Lamprotornis superbus Hildebrandt's Starling Lamprotornis hildebrandti Wattled Starling Creatophora cinerea Ashy Starling Cosmopsarus unicolor OXPECKERS: Buphagidae Red-billed Oxpecker Buphagus erythrorhynchus Yellow-billed Oxpecker Buphagus africanus SUNBIRDS: Nectarinidae Tacazze Sunbird Nectarinia tacazze Bronze Sunbird Nectarinia kilimensis Golden-winged Sunbird Nectarinia reichenowi Malachite Sunbird Nectarinia famosa Western Olive Sunbird Cyanomitra olivacea Eastern Double-collared Sunbird Cinnyris mediocris Copper Sunbird Cinnyris cuprea Marico Sunbird Cinnyris mariquensis Beautiful Sunbird Cinnyris pulchella Variable Sunbird Cinnyris venusta Amethyst Sunbird Chalcomitra amethystina Scarlet-chested Sunbird Chalcomitra senegalensis Eastern Violet-backed Sunbird Anthreptes orientalis Collared Sunbird Hedydipna collaris SPARROWS: Passeridae House Sparrow Passer domesticus Kenya Rufous Sparrow Passer motitensis Northern Gray-headed Sparrow Passer griseus Swaheli Sparrow Passer suahelicus Chestnut Sparrow Passer eminibey Yellow-spotted Petronia Petronia pyrgita WEAVERS: Plocidae Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver Bubalornis niger White-headed Buffalo-Weaver Dinemellia dinemelli Speckle-fronted Weaver Sporopipes frontalis White-browed Sparrow-Weaver Plocepasser mahali Rufous-tailed Weaver SPE Histurgops ruficauda Gray-headed Social-Weaver Pseudonigrita arnaudi Baglafecht Weaver Ploceus baglafecht Lesser Masked-Weaver Ploceus intermedius Black-necked Weaver Ploceus nigricollis Taveta Golden-Weaver Ploceus castaneiceps African (Vitelline) Masked-Weaver Ploceus velatus Village (Black-headed) Weaver Ploceus cucullatus Speke's Weaver Ploceus spekei Golden-backed Weaver Ploceus jacksoni

Chestnut Weaver Ploceus rubiginosus Grosbeak Weaver Amblyospiza albifrons Red-headed Weaver Anaplectes rubriceps Cardinal Quelea Quelea cardinalis Red-headed Quelea Quelea erythrops Red-billed Quelea Quelea quelea Jackson's Widowbird KME Euplectes jacksoni Red-collared Widowbird Euplectes ardens Fan-tailed Widowbird Euplectes axillaris Yellow-crowned Bishop Euplectes afer Black Bishop Euplectes gierowii Black-winged Bishop Euplectes hordeaceus (Southern) Red Bishop Euplectes orix Northern Red Bishop Euplectes franciscanus Yellow Bishop Euplectes capensis Yellow-mantled Widowbird Euplectes macrourus White-winged Widowbird Euplectes albonotatus FINCHES: Estrildidae Grey-headed Negrofinch Nigrita canicapilla Green-winged Pytilia Pytilia melba Red-billed Firefinch Lagonosticta senegala Red-cheeked Cordonbleu Uraeginthus bengalus Blue-capped Cordonbleu Uraeginthus cyanocephalus Purple Grenadier Uraeginthus ianthinogaster Yellow-bellied Waxbill Estrilda quartinia Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild Black-faced (-cheeked) Waxbill Estrilda erythronotus African Quailfinch Ortygospiza atricollis Gray-headed Silverbill Lonchura griseicapilla Bronze Mannikin Lonchura cucullata Rufous-backed Mannikin Lonchura nigriceps WHYDAHS: Viduidae Village Indigobird Vidua chalybeata Steel-blue Whydah Vidua hypocherina Straw-tailed Whydah Vidua fischeri Pin-tailed Whydah Vidua macroura Eastern Paradise-Whydah Vidua paradisaea SEEDEATERS: Fringillidae Oriole Finch Linurgus olivaceus Yellow-crowned (Cape) Canary Serinus canicollis flavivertex LO Southern Citril Serinus citrinelloides Yellow-rumped Seed-eater Serinus reichenowi Southern Grosbeak-Canary Serinus buchanani LO White-bellied Canary Serinus dorsostriatus Streaky Seedeater Serinus striolatus Thick-billed Seedeater Serinus burtoni

BUNTINGS: Emberizidae Golden-breasted Bunting Emberiza flaviventris MAMMALS Guereza Pied Colobus Colobus guereza Olive Baboon Papio anubis Vervet Monkey Ceropithecus aethiops pygerythrus Sykes Blue Gentle Monkey Cercopithicus nictitans stuhlmanni Silver Galago Otolemur argentatus Straw-coloured Fruit Bat Eidolon helvum Yellow-winged Bat Lavia frons Scrub Hare Lepus saxatilis Striped Ground Squirrel Exerus erythrops Unstriped Ground Squirrel Xerus rutilus Golden Jackal Canis aureus Black-backed Jackal Canis mesomelas Bat-eared Fox Otocyon megalotis Spotted Hyaena Crocuta crocuta Common Genet Genetta genetta Leopard Panthera pardus Lion Panthera leo Cheetah Acinonyx jubatus Yellow-spotted Rock Hyrax Heterohyrax brucei Black-necked Rock Hyrax Procavia johnstoni African Elephant Loxodonta africana Boehm‟s Common Zebra Equus quagga boehmi Black Rhinoceros Diceros bicornis Hippopotamus Hippopotamus amphibious Common Warthog Phacochoerus africanus Giraffe Giraffa camelopardalis Buffalo Syncerus caffer Bushbuck Tragelaphus scriptus Eland Taurotragus oryx Bohor Reedbuck Redunca redunca Steinbuck Raphicerus campestris Kirk‟s Dikdik Madoqua kirkii Defassa Waterbuck Kobus ellipsiprymnus defassa Common Waterbuck Kobus ellipsiprymnus ellipsiprymnus

Thompson‟s Gazelle Gazella rufifrons Grant‟s Gazelle Gazella granti Suni Neotragus moschatus African Porcupine Hystrix africaestralus Impala Aepyceros melampus Topi Damaliscus lunatus topi Coke‟s Hartebeest (Kongoni) Alcelaphus buselaphus cokei Blue Wildebeest Connochaetes taurinus Springhare Pedetes capensis Banded Mongoose Mungos mungo Slender Mongoose Herpestes sanguinea Dwarf Mongoose Helogale parvula

African Grass Rat Arvicanthis niloticus REPTILES, AMPHIBIANS AND OTHER ANIMALS Leopard Tortoise Geochelone paralis Helmeted Terrapin Pelomedusa subrufa Mwanza Flat-headed Agama Agama mwanzae White-throated Savanna Monitor Varanus albigularis Nile Monitor Varanus niloticus Nile Crocodile Crocodylus niloticus Boomslang Dispholidus typus Green Mamba Dendroaspis angusticeps