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Plan Your Trip 1
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.
So go!”
TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Simon Richmond
Kuala Lumpur,Melaka & Penang
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ContentsContents
Welcome to Kuala Lumpur ..................4
Kuala Lumpur’s Top 10 ...6
What’s New ....................13
Need to Know ................14
Top Itineraries ...............16
If You Like .......................18
Month by Month ........... 20
With Kids ....................... 22
Like a Local ................... 24
Eating ........................... 25Drinking & Nightlife... 35Entertainment ............38Shopping ......................40
Plan Your Trip page 1
Understand Kuala Lumpur 181
Survival Guide 215
Kuala Lumpur Maps 245
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore Kuala Lumpur 44
Transport .........................216
Directory A–Z ..................220
Language ..........................228
Index .................................. 237
Kuala Lumpur Today ............................182
History ......................... 184
Life in Kuala Lumpur ... 194
Multiculturalism, Religion & Culture ...... 197
Arts & Architecture ....205
Environment & Wildlife ...................... 211
Neighbourhoods at a Glance ...................46Golden Triangle & KLCC .............................. 48
Chinatown, Merdeka Square & Bukit Nanas ............................. 71
Masjid India, Kampung Baru & Northern KL .................. 85
Lake Gardens, Brickfields & Bangsar ......................... 95
Day Trips from Kuala Lumpur .............114
Sleeping ......................127
Melaka ........................ 136
Penang ........................154
LAU
RIE N
OB
LE / GE
TT
Y IMA
GES
©
LAU
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LE / GE
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Y IMA
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©
KIM
BE
RLEY C
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GES
©
Chinatown,MerdekaSquare &
Bukit Nanas
Masjid India,Kampung Baru& Northern KL
GoldenTriangle& KLCC
p71
p48
p85
Lake Gardens,Brickfields& Bangsar
p95
(left) Joggers in KLCC Park (p51)
(above) Guandi Temple (p76)
(right) Statue of Hindu deity inside Batu Caves (p115)
Day TwoMerdeka Square (p71)
M Admire the historic buildings of Merdeka Square, then either cycle
on a hired bike or take a taxi to the Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park. Start at the National Monument, then walk through the Perdana Botanical Gardens to reach the National Museum by 10am in time for the free guided tour.
Lake Gardens (p95)
R Continue to enjoy the leafy sur-rounds of the park at the KL Bird
Park or Butterfly Park. Save at least an hour or more for the splendid Islamic Arts Museum, then admire the architecture of Masjid Negara and Kuala Lumpur Rail-way Station.
Chinatown (p71)
N Go souvenir shopping at Central Market, then push your way through
the crowds at Chinatown’s Jln Petaling night market.
Day OneKLCC (p48)
M Breakfast at Imbi Market then hop in a taxi to the Kuala Lumpur City
Centre (KLCC), where you’ve prebooked tick-ets up the Petronas Towers. Afterwards, browse the shops in Suria KLCC, see a free art exhibition at the excellent Galeri Pet-ronas and enjoy the science-related exhibi-tions at Petrosains.
KLCC (p48)
R Take a postlunch stroll around KLCC Park. At 3pm Tuesday to
Thursday head to the Malaysian Tourism Centre for its traditional dance and music show. Alternatively, learn about sea and river life at Aquaria KLCC or join the 3pm tour of the Malay-style wooden house Rumah Penghulu next to Badan Warisan.
Golden Triangle (p48)
N Go mall-hopping along Jln Bukit Bintang until 10pm then head to
Changkat Bukit Bintang and Jln Mesui for the bars; Palate Palette is a superb choice. Check out No Black Tie for its jazz and clas-sical concerts.
Top Itineraries
Dinner Old China Cafe (p80) for Nonya food or Jln Hang Lekir street eats.
Lunch Nasi lemak at Hornbill (p105) or fish at Kompleks Makan Tanglin (p105).
Dinner Enjoy chicken wings and grilled fish at Wong Ah Wah (p58) on Jln Alor.
Lunch Suria KLCC (p69) has oodles of dining options including two food courts.
16 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Day FourBatu Caves (p115)
M Climb the 272 steps at Batu Caves to pay your respects at the Hindu
Temple Cave and learn about bats and other cave dwellers in the Dark Cave.
Titiwangsa (p89)
R Views the city skyline from Titi-wangsa Lake Gardens. Nearby is
the National Visual Art Gallery. To see more contemporary works make an ap-
pointment to view the private collection at Ruang Pemula (RuPé).
Golden Triangle (p48)
N Sink a sunset cocktail at Heli Lounge Bar. If your budget
doesn’t stretch to fine dining, a meal at Jalan Imbi Hawker Stalls or Jalan Sayur Stalls will be equally memorable and delicious.
Day ThreeChow Kit & Kampung Baru (p85)
M Have breakfast at Bazaar Baru Chow Kit, one of KL’s most atmos-
pheric wet markets, then amble through the Malay area of Kampung Baru admir-ing the traditional wooden houses and flower gardens.
Bukit Nanas (p71)
R Walk from Masjid India to Bukit Nanas where you can traverse the
canopy walkway of KL Forest Eco Park and then go much higher up the Menara
KL, to get your bearings of the city from the revolving restaurant Atmosphere 360.
Brickfields (p95)
N For another panoramic perspective of KL stand on the upper terraces
of the gloriously decorative Thean Hou Temple. Walk around the many religious sites of Brickfields in the cool of evening and enjoy a cocktail at the rooftop MAI Bar overlooking KL Sentral.
Dinner Splash out at Acme Bar & Coffee (p60) or Cantaloupe (p60).
Lunch Tuck into Thai at Samira (p93) in Sentul Park.
Dinner Enjoy Chinese at Robson Heights (p106) or Indian food in Brickfields.
Lunch Go old school at Yut Kee (p91) or colonial at Coliseum Cafe (p92).
Birdwing butterfly at KL Butterfly Park (p99)
GR
EG E
LMS
/ GE
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Y IMA
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©
17PLAN
YOUR TRIP TO
P IT
INER
AR
IES
U-Bahn
CafeDrinking & Nightlife
Shopping
Entertainment
Eating
CampingSleeping
BuddhistCastleChristianHinduIslamicJewishMonumentMuseum/GalleryRuinWinery/VineyardZooOther Sight
BeachCanoeing/KayakingSkiingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Sports &Activities
Diving/Snorkelling
Tourist InformationPost Office
Border CrossingBus
CyclingFerry
UndergroundTrain Station
MonorailParking
TaxiS-Bahn
Train/RailwayTramTube Station
Other Transport
Cable Car/Funicular
Airport
Walking TourDetour
Walking Tour
Path
Lane
Tertiary
Freeway
Primary
Steps
Plaza/Mall
PedestrianOverpass
Secondary
Unsealed Road
Tunnel
Tollway
Disputed
Regional/Suburb
Marine Park
Cliff
Wall
State/Province
InternationalCemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)Park/ForestSportsgroundSight (Building)Top Sight(Building)
Beach/Desert
Intermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveReefCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier
River/Creek
LighthouseLookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
Hut/Shelter
Map Legend
AreasBoundaries
Hydrography
Geographic
Transport
Information
Drinking & Nightlife
Shopping
Entertainment
Eating
Sleeping
Sports & ActivitiesSights Routes
Kuala Lumpur Maps
245©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
MAP INDEX1 Chinatown & Merdeka Square (p248)
2 KLCC (p250)
3 Golden Triangle (p252)
4 Masjid India & Chow Kit (p256)
5 Kampung Baru & Titiwangsa (p258)
6 Lake Gardens & Brickfields (p260)
7 Bangsar Baru & Mid Valley (p262)
2 2 2
2 2 2
2 2 2
CHINATOWN
BRICKFIELDS
PUDU
GOLDENTRIANGLE
CHOWKIT KAMPUNG
BARU
TITIWANGSA
MASJIDINDIA
LAKEGARDENS
KLCC
BANGSARBARU
TasikPerdana
LakeTitiwangsa
Sungai Batu
Sung
ai G
omba
k
Sungai Klang
Sungai G
ombak
Sungai Untui
Tun Abdul RazakHeritage Park
(Lake Gardens)
BukitNanasForest
Reserve
SentulPark
Kuala LumpurCity Centre
(KLCC) Park
TitiwangsaLake
Gardens
Ð"1
Ð"2
Ð"5
Ð"4
Ð"7
Ð"6
Ð"3
0 1 km0 0.5 miles#e
246
CHINATOWN
& MERDEKA SQ
UARE
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AR
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ap o
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48
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ple
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248
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252
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253
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GOLDEN TRIANGLE Map on p252
ú Eating (p52) 23 Restoran Oversea....................................... E4 1 Al-Amar ........................................................ D1 24 Restoran Sahara Tent................................C2 2 Al-Amar Express.........................................D2 25 Santouka ......................................................E1 3 Ben's............................................................. D1 26 Sao Nam...................................................... A3 Bijan.....................................................(see 17) 27 T-Bowl Concept Restaurant .....................C3 4 Blue Boy Vegetarian Food Centre............A3 28 Twenty One Kitchen & Bar........................ F6 Din Tai Fung.......................................(see 59) 29 Wong Ah Wah.............................................. B3 5 Dining in the Dark .......................................G7 30 Wong Kee ....................................................C6 Dragon-i .............................................(see 59) 31 Woods Macrobiotics.................................. B3 Enak....................................................(see 62)
6 Fei Por ..........................................................C7 û Drinking & Nightlife (p61) Food Republic ...................................(see 59) 32 Bakita ...........................................................G6 7 Frangipani.................................................... F7 33 Blue Boy.......................................................D2 8 Fukuya......................................................... H3 34 Circus............................................................E1 9 Hakka.............................................................E1 35 Coffee Stain by Joseph..............................D2 10 Imbi Market .................................................F4 Frangipani Bar .....................................(see 7) 11 Jalan Alor .....................................................B3 36 Green Man................................................... G7 12 Jalan Imbi Hawker Stalls............................E3 J Co Donuts & Coffee....................... (see 59) 13 Kedai Makanan Dan Minuman Luk Yu Tea House............................. (see 62) TKS ............................................................B3 37 Negaba.........................................................H6 14 Levain .......................................................... H2 38 Palate Palette..............................................G6 15 Limablas.......................................................G5 39 Paper + Toast .............................................H5 Loaf.....................................................(see 59) 40 Pisco Bar .....................................................H6 Lot 10 Hutong....................................(see 58) 41 Reggae Bar.................................................. G7 16 Neroteca ..................................................... G6 Rootz.................................................. (see 58) 17 Nerovivo.......................................................A2 42 Sixty Nine Bistro......................................... B5 18 Ngau Kee Beef Ball Noodles......................A3 Snowflake.......................................... (see 59) 19 Pinchos Tapas Bar...................................... F6 43 Social............................................................G6 20 Restaurant Muar.........................................A3 44 Starhill Tea Salon ....................................... E2 21 Restoran Beh Brothers..............................B3 45 Taps Beer Bar ..............................................B1 22 Restoran Nagansari Curry House ........... H6 Teeq Brasserie.................................. (see 58)
254
gOlDEN
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46 TWG Tea .......................................................E1 Ø Sports & Activities (p70) 47 Typica...........................................................D6 Asianel Reflexology Spa.................. (see 62) Village Bar..........................................(see 62) Berjaya Times Square 48 Whisky Bar Kuala Lumpur.........................G7 Theme Park.................................... (see 53) 49 Wings............................................................C5 Donna Spa......................................... (see 62) JoJoBa Spa ....................................... (see 53) ý Entertainment (p66) 64 Kenko ............................................................E1 50 GSC Pavilion KL .......................................... D1 Morino Kaze ...................................... (see 72) Golden Screen Cinemas ..................(see 53) 65 Reborn .........................................................B4 51 No Black Tie.................................................G5 66 Spa Village................................................... E2 52 The Venue.................................................... D1 67 Starhill Culinary Studio.............................. E2
þ Shopping (p67) ÿ Sleeping (p130) 53 Berjaya Times Square................................C5 68 Anggun Boutique Hotel ............................. A3 Bernard Chandran............................(see 55) 69 Classic Inn ................................................... C5 Eclipse ................................................(see 58) 70 Hotel Capitol ...............................................C4 54 Eu Yan Sang.................................................D6 71 Parkroyal Serviced Suites.........................H5 55 Fahrenheit88...............................................D2 72 Piccolo Hotel...............................................D2 56 Imbi Plaza ....................................................C4 73 Radius International Hotel ........................ G7 Isetan..................................................(see 58) 74 Rainforest Bed & 57 Jadi Batek Centre .......................................G3 Breakfast ..................................................H6 Khoon Hooi ........................................(see 62) 75 Red Palm ..................................................... A3 58 Lot 10............................................................D3 76 Royale Bintang Kuala Metrojaya...........................................(see 53) Lumpur .....................................................B4 59 Pavilion KL ....................................................E1 77 Sahabat Guest House.................................F7 60 Plaza Low Yat ..............................................C4 78 The Yard Boutique Hotel........................... B3 61 Purple Cane Tea Square ............................D6 79 Westin Kuala Lumpur ................................ E2 Sakun Silver & Silk............................(see 58) 80 YY38 Hotel................................................... B3 62 Starhill Gallery.............................................E2
63 Sungei Wang Plaza.....................................C3
255
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RAIL SYSTEMS
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256
MASJID IN
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KITMASJID INDIA & CHOW KIT æ Sights (p87) 16 Saravanaa Bhavan ..................................... C7 1 Bank Negara Malaysia Museum & Art 17 Thai-la ..........................................................D6 Gallery .......................................................A5 18 Yut Kee......................................................... D5 2 Bazaar Baru Chow Kit ................................C3
3 Loke Mansion ..............................................C5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p93) 4 Masjid India..................................................C7 19 Asian Heritage Row....................................D4 5 Tatt Khalsa Diwan Gurdwara ....................D3 Coliseum Cafe......................................(see 7) 20 Nam Kee ......................................................D2 ú Eating (p91)
6 Capital Café .................................................C5 ý Entertainment (p94) 7 Coliseum Cafe.............................................C6 21 CapSquare ..................................................D6 8 Kin Kin ..........................................................C4 22 Coliseum Theatre.......................................C6 9 Masjid India Hawker Court ........................C7
10 Masjid India Pasar Malam (Night Ø Sports & Activities (p94) Market)......................................................C6 23 Tanamera Wellness Spa............................ B5 11 Mungo Jerry ................................................C3
12 Nazri .............................................................C2 ÿ Sleeping (p134) 13 Pak Ngah Bihun Sup...................................C2 24 Frenz Hotel..................................................C6 14 Restoran Buharry .......................................D5 25 Tune Hotel...................................................C4 15 Sagar ............................................................C6
257
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262
BANgSAR BARU & M
ID VAllEYBANGSAR BARU & MID VALLEY ú Eating (p106) 26 Ril's Bangsar ................................................D1 1 Alexis Bistro................................................. C1 27 Sino The Bar Upstairs.................................D1 2 Baba Low's 486 Bangsar...........................B7 28 Social............................................................C2 3 Bangsar Fish Head Corner ........................B3 29 WIP ................................................................A1 4 Bangsar Sunday Market ............................D2
5 Chawan ........................................................C2 þ Shopping (p110) 6 Chelo's Appam Stall ...................................B3 30 17A Select Store ..........................................C1 7 Delicious.......................................................D2 Actually.............................................. (see 32) 8 Devi's Corner............................................... D1 Bangsar Shopping Centre................(see 10) 9 Hit & Mrs ......................................................B7 31 Bangsar Village I.........................................C3 10 House+Co Kitchen...................................... A1 32 Bangsar Village I & II .................................. D2 11 La Bodega.................................................... D1 Dude & the Duchess ........................ (see 32) 12 Les Deux Garcons....................................... C1 33 Egg.................................................................D1 13 Nam Chuan Coffee Shop...........................C3 Lasting Impressions......................... (see 32) 14 Nutmeg ........................................................D2 34 Lonely Dream..............................................C2 15 Poomy's .......................................................B3 35 Never Follow Suit ........................................D1 16 Pressroom ................................................... A1 36 Nurita Harith ................................................D1 17 Rebung .........................................................D6 37 Seethrough Concept Store........................D1 18 Restaurant Mahbub....................................C3 38 Shoes Shoes Shoes ....................................D1 19 Reunion ........................................................D2 39 Silverfish Books...........................................C1 20 Smokehouse Restaurant...........................C2 Vinci+ ................................................. (see 32) 21 Sri Nirwana Maju.........................................C2
22 Wondermama .............................................C2 Ø Sports & Activities (p113) 23 Yeast Bistronomy....................................... D1 Hammam........................................... (see 32) Kizsports & Gym............................... (see 32) û Drinking & Nightlife (p109)
24 Coffea Coffee .............................................. D1 ÿ Sleeping (p134) Hit & Mrs .............................................. (see 9) 40 Sekeping Terasek....................................... B3 25 Plan b............................................................C2
263
Simon RichmondCoordinating Author Simon first started travelling in Malaysia back in the early 1990s. A lot has changed since, but the country remains among Simon’s favourite destinations for its easily accessible blend of cultures, landscapes, adventure and, crucially, lip-smacking range of cuisines. This is the second time the award-winning travel writer and photographer has helmed Lonely Planet’s Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang guide. He’s also the coordinating author of
Lonely Planet’s Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei guide, as well as a shelf-load of other titles for this and other publishers. Follow his travel adventures on www.simonrichmond.com.
Read more about Simon at: lonelyplanet.com/members/simonrichmond
Our Writer
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9833rd edition – Jun 2014ISBN 978 1 74220 424 6© Lonely Planet 2014 Photographs © as indicated 201410 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
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