Melissa Romeo

Santa Fe Social Doc

I did this story with Nic and I believe he is turning in the photos

SANTA FE, N.M. – Soft notes from a harp drift over the crowd of tourists filling the plaza. The late morning sun glints off the surrounding adobe structures, while the smoky aroma of meat on the grill ignites nostalgia of summer gone by.

A weather beaten food truck sits on the corner it’s occupied since 1982, while the grandfatherly face of Roque Garcia gazes across the center square of Santa Fe. As he serves up savory tacos packed with meat and veggies to vacationers, he speaks of an era lost to the grip of tourism.

“Years ago this area was filled with nothing but Spanish speaking people. You came down here for everything. There was a shoe store, a pharmacy, a family store. And there were lots of bars,” Garcia said. “Santa Fe just isn’t the same anymore. It’s been taken over by the Anglos and everyone sold out.”

Born in a building that is now a Thai restaurant, Garcia came from a large traditional Hispanic family. Nine boys and four girls made up the children and there was always a fiesta going on. His mother spent many hours in the kitchen, thus influencing him to pursue this passion later in life.

“She made everything. Beans, rice, tortillas, tamales. Everything was made from scratch, and it was good,” Garcia said.

After a short stint in the Army Garcia returned to Santa Fe to finish raising his three children. One night, while drinking at the bar with his buddy, he came up with the idea to start a business roasting green chile and selling hand-pies. As Santa Fe evolved into the hub of tourism it is today, his food truck transformed into the fragrant landmark. Offering only tacos and homemade tamales, the limited menu still draws a crowd. Over time other food vendors have surfaced on the plaza, however if you ask Garcia his is the best.

“Now days they add all kinds of sour cream and cheese and crap to the food,” Garcia said. Pointing to another cart down the sidewalk he laughs. “Do you know what a fajita is? It’s a belt. The meat comes from the belly of a cow. It’s a strip steak, you have to remember that. So how the hell do they get a chicken fajita?”

Not one to rest on his laurels Garcia has opened many other restaurants throughout the country, including the “first” Mexican food restaurant in Washington D.C. When asked he says Santa Fe will always be home and is his favorite.

His gaze shifts away from his grill to the throngs of people now shopping for jewelry and souvenirs and a look of contemplation comes into his eyes. “I wish it would have all stayed the same,” Garcia said with a slight shake of his head. “But if it did we wouldn’t be making any money I guess. But it would be nice if it was the same.”