XvMEMOIR.

Mr. Salt rsided in is situated, where I stayed during my first

visit to Alexandria. A part of this garden is converted into a

burial-place for the Englsh. Mr. Salt is buried there.-Alexan-dria is rapCily increasing towards the site of the old city: severallarge and handsome buildings have lately been erected in thatquarter.

14th. Removed my luggage from the brig to a boat on the

Mahmoodeeyeh; and in the afternoon set sail for the Nile.

Paid 45 piasters for the voyage to the Nile.-16th. Arrivedbefore sunrise at the Foom, or the mouth of the canal, where it

communicates with the Nile. A bridge with gates has latelybeen constructed across the mouth, to retain the water in the canalduring the season of low Nile.-I here had to engage anotherboat, on the Nile. Bargained for 80 piasters for the voyage toMasr (or Cairo). Proceeded to Fooweh; but could not continueour voyage in consequence of a violent contrary wind. The airwas very thick; and I could hardly fancy myself in Egypt. Theriver still very turbid. There were many boats here conveyingTurkish pilgrims on their way to join the Egyptian Caravan to

Mekkeh. Fooweh seems to be falling to utter ruin and to beinhabited by the most squalid miserable people I ever beheld.I am told that I shall remark the same at all the villages we have

to pass; and the reason is this:-all the best-looking young menhave been picked for the army or navy, and their wives and lovers

have mostly followed them; but being parted from them on their

arrival at the metropolis have there betaken themselves to prosti-

tution; and Masr now absolutely swarms with prostitutes. Thus

the villages have been half desolated; and seem to be peopled in

general with the most wretched, ugly, old, and haggard pauperq.I see scarcely one good-looking young woman among a hundred;or carcely one where I used to see a score; and almost all are inrags.-16th. In the afternoon, though the wind was still very

high and from the S.W., we proceeded. Stopped for the nightunder the west bank, a little below Shubra Kheet. Severalheavy showers of rain fell, accompanied with violent gusts ofwind, which obliged many boats, loaded with Turkish pilgrims, to

stop at the same part. From a boat next above ours, during a

shower of rain, there poured forth a number of these pilgrims,each with his ewer in his hand, to perform the ablution prepara-tory to prayer; and some of them aged and decrepit. Whilemeditating on their zeal and the hardships which awaited themand admiring their grave and venerable aspect, I was surprised to

see six of them, and among these some of the most aged, run to atuboot (a kind of water-wheel used for irrigation), and, with shoutssuch as their children would have used on a similar occasion,amuse themselves by exerting what little strength they had toperform, all the six together, the work of one oow; and turn, whichthey could only do very slowly, the stiff and creaking wheel. Afew minutes after, they performed their devotions, all of themtogether, with the utmost solemnity and decorum, ranged in ranks,four abreast, under the partial shelter of some durah about 12feet high: one acted as Imam, in the first rank; and havingpreviously chanted the addn, recited the prayers, chanting thefard-prayers in a high key and loud voie.-To-day I began to feelthe effiect which is often produced by first drinking the waterof the Nile, and by the cool air of the night; my cabin beingonly furnished with blinds, like those of an English carriage,to the windows, I was much exposed to the night-air.--17th.Advanced to Shubra Kheet. The weather being boisterous andrainy, and my reiyis determined to proceed, I made a new agree-

ment with him; to pay 20 piaster a day, and to stop when andwhere I desired. Accordingly I remained the rest of this day,

and the foUowing night, at Shubram Kheet.-18th. Of the pru-lenoe of the new arrangement which I had made for my boat Ireceived a strong proof in information brought me to-day that aboat which I had first hired at the Foom, about the same size

and on the same terms as that in which I now am, but afterwardsleft for the latter boat in consequence of an order that vesselsthete should take their departure according to the order in whichthey lay, had been capsized in the night: the crew and pasengerswere saved, but remained shivering in their wet clothes for manyhours; no village being near. Had this been my case, in my pre-sent indisposed state, I should probably have lost my life; or, ifnot, my books &c. would have been lost or spoiled. My informantthanked God for my preservation; and I most heartily joined him.-19th. Proceeded to Shaboor: the wind still very violent andcontrary: on the 20th, to Nadir; 21st, to Zawiyet Razeem, by thetow-rope; having scarcely a breath of wind.-22nd. Calm. Pro-ceeded, by towing, to Wardiin.-23rd and 24th. As the wind wasvioleut and contrary during the greater part of each of these days,my reiyis absented himself from the boat. I punish him by doduct-ing two days' pay.-25th. Arrived within five miles of Boolaik.

26th. Arrived at Boolak about noon. Sent for a janisary fromthe Consulate to pass my luggage at the custom-house, and rodeup to my old friend 'Osnin, who had made preparations for myreception in a house belonging to him and next to that in whichhe resides. This house I have engaged for the period of myintended stay in Masr. It is situated in the most healthy part ofthe town, near the N.W. angle; and to me, who have suffieredfrom ophthalmia, it is a desirable residence, as it has glass wintdows.I have no doubt that ophthalmia in this country is generally theeffect of suppressed perspiration, which is most oommonly inducedby the night-air (the windows of almost all the houses in Masr andthe other towns being merely of wooden lattice-work) ; and that itis aggravated by the habit of keeping the head too warm, and thefeet too cool.

The aspect of Masr, as seen in the approach from the port, hasbeen much improved since the period of my last visit by the re-moval of many of the mounds of rubbish which rose along thatside, and by most of the spaoe which these unsightly objects oocu-pied being converted into gardens. A short time ago, Europeantravellers, if habited in the Turkish or Egyptian dreas, were notallowed to enter the gates of Masr without a passport (oalledtezkfrhA), which was shown to the guard. This custom is nowdispensed with. It was adopted in order to ascertain the numberof the population; and to insure that no one of the natives mightbe unknown, and so escape paying the firdeh or poll-tax. Inthe interior of the metropolis I observe more ruined houses thuinwhen I was last here; and in the appearanoe of the lower orders,more wretchedness. No change has taken place in the stylo ofthe costume of the natives; but the military officers, and theTurks in the employ of the B6ash, have adopted the Ni Limee dross,which was becoming common among them before I last quittedMasr. The head-dreus (being merely a larboosh, without themuslin or Kishmeeree shawl wound round it) has lost its elegance;and the whole dress is less becorming and graceful than the Mem-look costume which it has superseded; though it is more convenientfor walking and any active exertion. Formerly, a grandes ofMasr, with his retinue of twenty or more well-mounted men, cladin habits of various and brillfant hues, and with splendid accoutre-

U

ment with him; to pay 20 piasters a day, and to stop wnen anawhere

1 dedred. Accordingly I rem'ained the rest of this day.

and

the foUowing night, at Shubm Kheet.-18th. Of the pra-

aenoe

of the new arrangement which I had made for my boat I

receivecl

a iBtrong proof in information brought me to-day that a

boat

which I had firat hirea at the Foom, about the same aize

and

on the same terms an that in which I now am, but afterwards

left

for the latter boat in consequence of an order that vessels

thel.e

should take their departure according to the order in which

they

lay, had been capsizeci in the night: the crew and pamengers

were

aa�ed but remained shivering in their wet clothee for many

hours;

no village being near. Had this been my em, in my pre-

sent

indis~ state, I should probably have lost my life; or, if

not,

my books &c. would have been lost or spoiled. My informant

thanked

Gocl for my preservation; and I most heartily joinecl him.

-19th.

Procwded to Shiboor: the wind still very violeiit ancl

contrary:

on the 20th, to Nidir; 21st, to Ziwiyet Razeem, by the

tow-rope;

having scarcely a breath of wind.-22nd. Calm. Pro-

ceeded,

by towing, to Wardiin.-23ra and 24th. As the wind was

violeut

and contrary during the groater part of each of these days,

my

reiyis abeentecl himself from the boat. I punish him by doduct-

ing

two day8' pay.-25tb. Arrived within five miles of Boolilk.

26th.

Arrived at Boolhk about noon. Sent for a janisary from

the

Consulate to paaa my luggage at the custom-house, and rode

up

to my old friena'Ounin, who had made preparations for my

reception

in a house belonging to him and next to that in which

he

resides. This house I have engagecl for the period of my

intendecl

stay in Masr. It is situated in the most healthy part of

the

towii, near the N.W. angle; and to me, who have suffiered

from

ophthalmia, it is a deeirable resideiioe, as it has ghm wijtdowe.

I

have no doubt that ophthalmia in this eountry is genemily the

eiTect

of Pupprewed perapimtion, which is motit oommonly induced

by

the night-air (the windows of almoot all the houses in Maar ana

the

other towns being merely of wooden lattioe-work) ; and that it

is

aggravateaby the habit of keeping the head too warm, and the

feet

too

cool.

The

aBpect of Maar, m seen in the approach from the port, has

been

much improved since the period of my lut visit by the re-

moval

of many of the mounds of rubbish which rose along that

side,

and by most of the "oe which these unsightly objects ooeu-

piecl

being converted into gardens. A ishort time ago, European

travellera,

it babitecl in the Turkish or Egyptian dren, wore not

allowed

to enter the gates of Maqr without a passport (oaiiea

tezkff.-A),

which was shown to the guard. Thia custom is now

diopenud

with. It was adopted in order to aawrtain the number

of

the population; and to insure that no one of the nativea mi-ht

be

unknown, and so escape paying the firdeb or poll-tax. In

the

interior of the metropolis I observe more ruined housm thitn

when

I was last here ; and in the appwranoe of the lower ordem

more

wretchednem No change has taken plaoe in the stylo of

the

coatume of the natives; but the military Officem, and the

Turks

in the employ of the Biabi, have adopted the Ni zdmee dress,

which

wma becoming common among them before I lost quitted

Maor.

The head-dreu (being merely a larbooeb, without the

mu�lin

or Kishmeerce shawl wounaround it) haa lost its elegance;

and

the whole drew is leas becoraing and gramful than the Mem-

look

cmtume which it has eiuperseaca; though it is rnore convenient

for

walking and any active exertion. Formerly, a gmndee of

Maer,

with his retinue of twenty or more well-mounted men, clad

in

habits of various and brffii'ant hues, and with splendid accoutre-