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My responsibilities include market research, line development, merchandising plans, and retail/line presentation for Saint Laurent Paris that I chose for the portfolio.
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HYUNJU PARK 6800 Alpha Drive Apartment 289
Kent, Ohio 44240 (917) 328-3377; [email protected]
OBJECTIVE Passionate, hard-working and self-starting Fashion Merchandising student seeking internship for summer 2014.
EDUCATION Kent State University (KSU), Kent, OH 44242 August 2014
Major in Fashion Merchandising GPA: 3.98 in major, 3.88 cumulative
WORK EXPERIENCE REVIEWER FOR A PERSONAL LOAN, Hyundai Capital, Seoul, South Korea, November 2005 – March 2009 • Responsible for filing and managing loan application documents • Evaluated one’s qualification of personal loans and to approve loan applications in personal loan team • Monitored cases of examination completion that employees judged in audit team BOOKKEEPER/SECRETARY, Doosan Heavy Industry, Seoul, South Korea, September 2003 – August 2004 • Responsible for book-keeping and organized in relation to the general business matters • Assisted Executive Director as a secretary OVERSEA SALES TEAM MEMBER, Yoon Eui-Sub Patent Law Office, Seoul, South Korea, January 1999 – February 2000 • Responsible for transferring patent fees associated with foreign patent applications abroad • Documented foreign patent applications and sent remittance confirmation documents to main client
EXTRA CURRICULUM • Show coordinator committee in the Fashion Show for the Fashion School’s Fashion Store, Kent, OH, September 2013 • Show management committee in the Charity Fashion Show for the Habitat for Humanity of Kent State University’s School of Fashion, December 2013
ACTIVITIES Member of The National Society of Leadership and Success (Leadership Honor Society), June 2011-Present
COMPUTER SKILLS Proficient in Microsoft® Word, Excel, Power Point, and Adobe Illustrator®
LANGUAGE SKILLS Korean and English
AWARDS & HONORS Dean’s List in Spring 2011-2014 and President’s List in Fall 2013 Ellery Holding LLC, Scholarship based on class project, December 2012 Fashion Group International of Cleveland, INC., Scholarship, March 2013 Robert J. & Lizabeth Gunton Scholarship, March 2014 Senior Merchandising Portfolio, class project, chosen to be part of the Portfolio Showcase in NYC, April 2014
3
MERCHANDISING PORTFOLIO
HYUNJU PARK
Fashion Merchandising Seminar
Kent State University
SAINT LAURENT PARIS
TABLE OF CONTENTS
PART I – MARKET RESEARCH COMPANY PROFILE SAINT LAURENT PARIS CONTACT INFORMATION ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE REVENUE AND E2VALUATION OF FINANCIAL STRENGTH MISSION STATEMENT CODE OF CONDUCT THE BRAND
HISTORY AND CURRENT MARKET SITUATION STYLE AND CONCEPT NUMBER OF STORES AND GEOGRAPHIC DISTRIBUTION CURRENT SALES MAIN CATEGORIES OF MERCHANDISE PRICE/QUALITY LEVEL AND TARGET MARKET FASHION CONCEPT SOURCING MATERIALS AND DESIGN PROCESS MANUFACTURING ARRANGEENT DISTRIBUTION PRACTICES RETAILING
4
9
10 10 11 12 14 15 16 16
18 19 20 21 22
22 23 24 25
18
SAINT LAURENT PARIS
RESUME – HYUNJU PARK 2
MARKET POSITION SAINT LAURENT PARIS’S COMPETITORS GUCCI GUCCI CONTACT INFORMATION ORGANIZATIONAL STURCTURE CURRENT SALES AND FINANCIAL STANDING STYLE AND CONCEPT NUMBER OF STORES AND GEOGRAPHIC DISTRIBUTION MAIN CATEGORIES OF MERCHNADISE PRICE/QUALITY LEVEL AND TARGET MARKET LOUIS VUITTON LOUIS VUITTON CONTACT INFORMATION ORGANIZATIONAL STURCTURE CURRENT SALES AND FINANCIAL STANDING STYLE AND CONCEPT NUMBER OF STORES AND GEOGRAPHIC DISTRIBUTION MAIN CATEGORIES OF MERCHNADISE PRICE/QUALITY LEVEL AND TARGET MARKET SAINT LAURENT PARIS SWOT ANAYLSIS EXPLANATION OF SWOT COMPONENTS PRODUCT COMPARISON
5
26 26 27 27 28 29
30 31 32 33 33 34 35 36 36 37 38 39 40
30
42
SAINT LAURENT PARIS
PART II - LINE DEVELOPMENT TARGET CUSTOMER TREND REPORT SILHOUETTES & KEY ITEMS FABRICS & COLORS SAINT LAURENT LINE THEME CONCEPT BOARD – ARCHITECTURE 101 COLOR STORY COLOR AND PRINT STORY FABRIC STORY STYLE SHEET 5 KEY ITEMS LOOK ONE LOOK TWO LOOK THREE LOOK FOUR LOOK FIVE LOOKS SUMMARY
6
48 49 52 53 54 55 56 57
62 63 75 76 77 78 79 80 81
61
SAINT LAURENT PARIS
PART III – MERCHANDISING PLANS QUICK COSTING EXPLANATION OF QUICK COSTING SIX MONTHS MERCHANDISING PLAN SIX MONTHS MERCHANDISING PLAN FORMULA RATIOS STYLE DISTRIBUTION SIZE DISTRIBUTION COLOR DISTRIBUTION ASSORTMENT PLAN PURCHASE ORDER
PART IV – RETAIL/LINE PRESENTATION
TEST MARKET RESEARCH ELECTRONIC CATALOG CONCEPT EXPLANATION – ARCHITECTURE 101 ELECTRONIC CATALOG – COVER PAGE ELECTRONIC CATALOG SALES FORMS SALES REPORT SALES REPORT EXPLANATION
7
82 83 84 85 86 87 87 88
90
102
89
103
105 106 113 119 120
104 104
SAINT LAURENT PARIS
PLANOGRAM PLANOGRAM VIEW PLANOGRAM – KEY PLANOGRAM LEGEND – PROPS, ACCESSORIES, AND GARMENTS PLANOGRAM EXPLANATION STORE LAYOUT WINDOW DISPLAY WINDOW DISPLAY – KEY WINDOW DISPLAY LEGEND – PROPS, ACCESSORIES, AND GARMENTS WINDOW DISPLAY EXPLANATION
REFERENCES REFERENCES – FIGURES/PICTURES
8
121 121 122
124 125 126 127 128
137
123
129
130
SAINT LAURENT PARIS
9
PART I
MARKET RESEARCH
SAINT LAURENT PARIS
Saint Laurent Paris Headquarters - France 7, Avenue Georges V Paris, 75008 France Phone 33 1 56 62 65 72 Fax 33 1 56 62 63 41 Official Store www.ysl.com
10
Saint Laurent Paris Corporate Office Headquarters – USA 3 E 57th Street New York, NY 10022 United States Phone 1 212 832 7100 Official Store www.yslbeautyus.com
Figure 2. Saint Laurent Paris – USA (Source: www.corporateofficeheadquarters.com/2013/01/
ysl-yves-saint-laurent-corporate-office.html#.Ut7x0yL0DoB)
SAINT LAURENT PARIS CONTACT INFORMATION
Figure 1. Saint Laurent Paris – France (Source: www.modemonline.com/fashion/mini-web-sites/fashion-
brands/references/yvessaintlaurent)
Figure 3. Photo of Saint Laurent Paris ad campaign (Source: ftape.com/media/?p=62751)
COMPANY PROFILE
PART I – MARKET RESEARCH
11
LUXURY Gucci � Bottega Veneta � Saint Laurent � Alexander Mcqueen � Balenciaga � Brioni � Christopher Bane � McQ � Stella McCartney � Sergio Rossi � Boucheron
� Dodo � Girard-Perregaux � JEANRICHARD � Pomellato � Qeelin SPORT & LIFESTYLE
Puma � Volcom � Cobra � Electric � Tretorn
(“Luxury brands,” 2012)
Francesca Bellettini Chief Executive Officer
Mr. Alberto Da Passano Chief Financial Officer
Mr. Luc Rafflin Director of Human Resources
Mr. Jean-Denis Voin Brand Director
Mr. Hedi Slimane Creative and Image Director
Key Executives For Saint Laurent
ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE
Saint Laurent Paris is one of the most prominent fashion houses of the 20th century. Saint Laurent opened as Yves Saint Laurent an haute couture house in 1961 and then he democratized fashion through the introduction of luxury ready-to-wear in 1966 under the name of Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. In 1999, Gucci Group (owned by PPR) acquired Yves Saint Laurent brand (“PPR reference…,” 2013, p. 25). Saint Laurent Paris, renamed by Hedi Slimane in 2012, is owned by Kering (previously known as PPR) and Kering is a worldwide leading Luxury and Sport & Lifestyle group whose shares are traded on the Euronext Paris (“About Yves Saint Laurent,” 2012). Saint Laurent Paris (thereafter Yves Saint Laurent) has approximately over 5000 employees and the company offers leather goods, men’s and women’s ready-to-wear, shoes, jewellery, eyewear, and other accessories. Kering offers luxury and sport/lifestyle brands through distribution network of directly-operated stores, franchise stores, and department and specialty stores. (“Kering,” 2014).
Figure 4. Key Executives (Source: investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/
private/snapshot.asp?privcapId=6490488)
COMPANY PROFILE
PART I – MARKET RESEARCH
12
Saint Laurent Paris generated €473 million in revenue in 2012, representing a year-on-year increase of 33.7% from the previous 2011 year. The statistics show extremely dynamic growth in business in recent period. Retail sales in directly-operated stores accounted for 60% of the brand’s total sales in 2012, representing the huge profit portion of brand. Wholesale sales also increased significantly, up 22.7% in 2012. And, royalties from license agreements with L’Oreal, mainly fragrances and cosmetics, rose by 10.7%. The company’s sales has extremely strong growth figures specifically in leather goods and men’s and women’s shoes were also shown very high sale increase (“PPR reference…,” 2013, p. 140). Overall, the company generated slow sale of increase in 2009-2010 while in 2011-2012, the company saw dynamic increase in revenue because of strong growth of leather goods and men’s and women’s shoes.
Figure 5. Saint Laurent Paris Annual Report 2009-2012 (Source: www.kering.com/sites/default/files/document/ppr_ddr_2012_va.pdf)
473!
354!
269!238!
65! 41! 12!
-10!
Revenue (in € millions)! Recurring operating income (in € millions)!
2012 2011 2010 2009
26
10 22
31 26
10 20
27 25
10 20 23 19
10 20 17
Western Europe North America Japan Emerging countries
NUMBER OF DIRECTLY OPERATED STORES BY REGION
2012 2011 2010 2009
REVENUE & RECURRING OPERATING INCOME
REVENUE
EVALUATION OF FINANCIAL STRENGTH
Figure 6. Saint Laurent Paris Annual Report 2009-2012 (Source: www.kering.com/sites/default/files/document/ppr_ddr_2012_va.pdf)
COMPANY PROFILE
PART I – MARKET RESEARCH
13
44%
23% 19%
14%
35% 25% 24%
16%
33%
22% 26% 19%
33.2%
18.9%
29.5%
18.4%
Leather goods Shoes Rady-to-wear Other
BREAKDOWN OF REVENUE BY PRODUCT CATEGORY
2012 2011 2010 2009
40%
23%
8%
21%
8%
44%
24%
7% 16%
9%
48%
22%
9% 13% 8%
55.4%
20.3%
8.1%
16.1%
0.1%
Western Europe North America Japan Asia-Pacific Other countries
BREAKDOWN OF REVENUE BY REGION
2012 2011 2010 2009
Saint Laurent Paris generated revenue rises across all of its regions in 2012. Momentum was particularly strong in Asia-Pacific regions that the Asia-Pacific region was the main growth driver, reporting a sales rise of 21% in 2012 compared to previous year 2011, 16%. In Saint Laurent Paris’s traditional markets sales growth was a very solid 22.8%. Despite the unfavorable economic environment, sales in Western Europe accounted for 39.8% of the brand’s total revenue, North America and Japan sales slightly rose although revenue in Western Europe and North America is not a good financial performance compared to other regions. As the revenue by product category shows, leather goods and shoes have a strong growth while ready-to-wear and other products have decreasing revenue. Overall, the company generated strong rises in emerging markets as well as Asia-Pacific regions. Leather goods and shoes have strong growth for business that lead the company to keep one of top luxury brands, especially leather goods (“PPR reference…,” 2013, p. 140).
Figure 7. Saint Laurent Paris Annual Report 2009-2012 (Source: www.kering.com/sites/default/files/document/ppr_ddr_2012_va.pdf)
Figure 8. Saint Laurent Paris Annual Report 2009-2012 (Source: www.kering.com/sites/default/files/document/ppr_ddr_2012_va.pdf)
REVENUE
EVALUATION OF FINANCIAL STRENGTH
COMPANY PROFILE
PART I – MARKET RESEARCH
14
Yves Saint Laurent quotes, “The most beautiful clothes that can dress a woman are the arms of
the man she loves. But for those who haven’t had the fortune of finding this happiness, I am there.” According to the trade, the change for rebranding Yves Saint Laurent as
“Restoring the house to its truth, purity and essence – and taking it into a new era” while “respecting the original principles and ideals.” MISSION STATEMENT
Saint Laurent Paris does not offer its own mission statement to the public but Kering, which PPR changed its name to Kering and this name was approved at the Annual General Meeting on June 18 2013, offers mission statement. Kering states its mission statement is that Kering allows their customers to express, fulfill and enjoy themselves through their products. Also, their objective is to increase purchasing power as well as they allow people express their personality and customers could feel good through their brands. Kering take care of their employees as much as they look after their customers (“Kering’s history,” 2012).
Overall, Kering focus on their customers that customers can develop their own personal style with their brands and Kering improve shopping experience for customers. SAINT LAURENT PARIS’S PRIMARY OBJECTIVE
Is to create and market highly desirable products through innovation and unparalleled quality as well as design embodies the core values of the brand (“PPR annual…,” 2012, p. 29).
MISSION STATEMENT
COMPANY PROFILE
PART I – MARKET RESEARCH
15
CODE OF CONDUCT
Kering, previously known as PPR, is dedicated to behaving responsibly as well as Kering is highly committed to considering social responsibility and sustainability. According to Kering’s code of business practices, a steadfast ethical approach to conducting business is critical to ensure a company’s long-term survival. Success and sustainable growth in their markets are dependent upon the trust of their customers, employees, shareholders, business partners and local communities. In the business environment, ethics may take on numerous and sometimes seemingly contradictory appearances. Many of companies operating across the world should understand that all countries have different cultures and variety of economic development. Thus, Kering would be aware of such differences in business environment and have powerful shared principles serving as guidelines for their actions. Kering group’s rules of business conduct reflect several international standards, including: • the United Nations Universal Declaration of Human Right and the European Convention on Human Rights; • various International Labour Organization Conventions, notably conventions 29, 105, 138 and 182 (child labour and forced labour), 155 (occupational safety and health). 111 (discrimination), 100 (equal remuneration), 87 and 98 (freedom of association, right to organize and collective bargaining); • the OECD Guidelines for Multinational Enterprises; • the United Nations Convention on the Rights of the Child
(“Kering code…,” 2009, p. 5)
COMPANY PROFILE
PART I – MARKET RESEARCH
Yves Saint Laurent is one of the greatest fashion designers having an original talent in his era and the most influential designer today. Yves Saint Laurent and his business partner, Pierre Berge, opened Saint Laurent’s own couture house in 1961 after wining a legal suit against the House of Dior for unfair dismissal and he and Pierre Berge had a huge success. In 1963, YSL logo was designed by A. M. Cassandre (Hermsen, 2004). In 1967, Saint Laurent introduced le smoking suit, which became the most famous tuxedo suit for women and iconic style, and the trouser suit was symbolized women’s goal of equality. Saint Laurent opened the first Rive Gauche, ready-to-wear boutique, in Paris in 1966 (Hermsen, 2004). Designs were popularized by Yves Saint Laurent are beatnik look, safari jacket, le smoking suit, Mondrian dress, pea-coats, see-through look, tight pants and tall, thigh-high boots and classic tuxedo suit for women that he always wanted women to be liberated by dress. Also, he wished women would be more confident about clothes and his trouser suit became the uniform of the new assertive, independent woman. Yves Saint Laurent was the first to popularize ready-to-wear in attempt to democratize fashion that aimed at younger women in his era (Ann et al., 2002).
Gucci Group acquired Yves Saint Laurent brand in 1999 and Tom Ford was appointed as Creative Director for ready-to-wear line. On March 2012, Yves Saint Laurent and PPR announced the appointment of Hedi Slimane as Creative Director at Yves Saint Laurent and he has total creative responsibility for the brand’s image and all its collections (“PPR reference…,” 2013, p. 25).
16
HISTORY
THE BRAND
PART I – MARKET RESEARCH
Hedi Slimane decided to rebrand Yves Saint Laurent, changing the name of the ready-to-wear line to Saint Laurent Paris. Hedi Slimane was interested in giving the brand more of a youth, freedom and modernity as he begins his tenure there so that he rebranded Yves Saint Laurent to make more young and fresh while keeping core brand’s value constructed by Yves Saint Laurent (Mau, 2012). The company introduced its new logo on its Facebook page in June 2012, many of YSL’s fans said that the new logo was boring and genuinely disappointing. And, it was controversial issue that logo change was necessary between most of YSL’s fans and fashion people (Alexander, 2012). In terms of distribution, the company continues expansion of its global retail presence featuring with new store concept. The focus is not only on emerging markets but also on further development in the USA, Europe and Japan. Existing stores are progressively redesigned with the new store concept that could appeal to younger clients. Also, with company’s aggressive investment in advertising and global communication, they could reach to more upper class as well as middle class (“PPR reference…,” 2013, p. 25).
17
HISTORY
CURRENT MARKET SITUATION
Figure 9. Saint Laurent Paris Renaming (Source: www.businessoffashion.com/2012/10/a-wake-up-call-for-ysls-pr-
team.html)
THE BRAND
PART I – MARKET RESEARCH
18
STYLE
CONCEPT
NUMBER OF STORES
GEOGRAPHIC DISTRIBUTION
Its founder, the couturier Yves Saint Laurent reflected the culture, arts, and the time in design that he adopted culture into the style. His signature styles, such as the tuxedo, trouser suit, safari jacket and trench coat revolutionized women’s wardrobes and continue to symbolize French chic, muscular feminine elegance and the power of seduction. Saint Laurent Paris is positioned at the high end of the luxury goods market, renewing the exceptional legacy of its founder (“PPR reference,” 2011, p. 46). In recent business time, as shown 2013 and 2014 collections, we understand that Saint Laurent Paris more focused on chic-rocker and girls’ look that appeal to younger clients. Saint Laurent Paris operates in five regions around the world, including; Western Europe, North America, Japan, Asia-Pacific, and other countries. As of June 30. 2013, Saint Laurent Paris has directly-operated 104 stores, including 39 in emerging countries. There were eight net store additions in emerging countries during the period and the company brought back under the direct management seven points of sales in the United Arab Emirates (“Kering first…,” 2013, p. 22).
The directly-operated boutiques together generated 60% of the total 2012, 56% of the total 2011, 55% of the total 2010 and 53% of the total 2009 brand revenue – including flagships in Paris, New York, London, Milan, Hong Kong, Shanghai and Los Angeles. The company also operates select multi-brand boutiques and department stores around the world (“PPR reference…,” 2010-2013).
THE BRAND
PART I – MARKET RESEARCH
19
CURRENT SALES
€ 223.5
€ 255.3
€ 24.7
€ 27.2
2012
2013
REVENUE OF FIRST-HALF 2013
Revenue Recurring operating Income
Following on from 2012, 2013 is the year of aggressive investment for Saint Laurent Paris particularly in terms of opening new concept stores and strengthening the brand’s exclusivity, online distribution and communications. In spite of aggressive investment, the revenue of Saint Laurent Paris rose again in first-half 2013 reaching €255 million, up 14.2%, comparing to year 2011, €224. And, royalties from license agreements rose by 10.7% in 2012. Wholesale sales jumped 43.6% for the full six months due to the brand decision to postpone certain deliveries until 2013 for the distribution of the Spring/Summer 2013 collection because the brand also decided to open stores designed or refurbished with the new store concept designed by Hedi Slimane. Retail sales in directly-operated stores that accounted for around 52% of the brand’s total sales for first-half 2013 rose by a more modest 3.4% and they saw more positive result in the second quarter, 6.6%. (“Kering first…,” 2013, p. 21)
22.7%
43.6%
2012
2013
WHOLESALE SALES
2013 Based on 6 Months / 2012 Year on Year Figure 10. Saint Laurent Paris Revenue and Wholesales sale
in 2012-2013 (Source: www.kering.com/sites/default/files/kering_2013first-
halfreport_2.pdf)
THE BRAND
PART I – MARKET RESEARCH
20
MAIN CATEGORIES OF MERCHANDISE
Under the leadership of Paul Deneve, CEO, and Hedi Slimane, Creative Director, Saint Laurent Paris designs and markets a broad range of men’s and women’s ready-to-wear, small leather goods, handbags,, shoes, jewellery, scarves, ties, belts and eyewear. Also, Saint Laurent Paris offers cruise-wear in women’s merchandise category. Through a license agreement with L’Oreal, Saint Laurent Paris produces and distributes fragrances and cosmetics: perfume, makeup and cosmetics, soaps and toiletries, and designer perfumes (“PPR reference…,” 2013, p. 24). Leather goods and shoes have turned iconic style that they became huge growth driver in sales, such as the Muse and Muse2 handbags, Belle de Jour small leather goods and the best-selling the Cabas Y bag, Tribute and the Trib2 shoes (“PPR reference…,” 2012, p. 29).
Figure 11. Main categories of merchandise of Saint Laurent Paris (Source: www.ysl.com/us/shop-product/women and www.yslbeautyus.com)
SHOP WOMEN
THE PERMANENT COLLECTION GIFTS FOR HER
CRUISE 14 HANDBAGS
SHOES READY TO WEAR LEATHER GOODS
JEWELRY BELTS
SILK SUNGLASSES
SHOP MEN
THE PERMANENT COLLECTION GIFTS FOR HIM
READY TO WEAR SHOES BELTS
LEATHER GOODS BAGS
JEWELRY SILK
SUNGLASSES
THE BRAND
PART I – MARKET RESEARCH
21
PRICE/QUALITY LEVEL
TARGET MARKET Originally, Saint Laurent Paris targeted at both high fashion conscious a male and female public, aged between 25 and 50, and are positioned in the luxury and premium segments of the market (“Saint Laurent Paris,” n.d.). Recently, the company’s collections became targeted at very young men and women when Hedi Slimane was appointed as Creative Director that he introduced vintage collection in 2013. Reuters pointed out that it was perfectly apparent that Slimane and Saint Laurent’s owner are searching out younger clients, born too late to remember the many innovations of the house’s founder (Anaya, 2013).
Saint Laurent Paris designs, produces and distributes high-quality personal luxury goods (“About Yves Saint Laurent,” 2012). As Kering has control of whole process in product development, the company offers high quality in all merchandises to customers. Saint Laurent Paris offers ready-to-wear with high quality, such as mostly wool, silk, and leather, and all leather goods became iconic products of the company, such as handbags, small leather goods, and shoes with high quality of leather so that those leather goods became the most profitable products in the company.
Figure 12. Quality level of Saint Laurent Paris
French fashion’s elegance
Luxury
Muscular Feminine
High quality
Modernism
Leather
Tuxedo tailoring
Detailing
Youth
Rock-Chick
Luxurious essence
Well-polished
Pantsuits (Heritage)
Yves Saint Laurent’s price range is from $34.00 cosmetics to $6,450.00 ready-to-wear (“Shop women,” n.d.).
THE BRAND
PART I – MARKET RESEARCH
22
FASHION CONCEPT
SOURCING MATERIALS
DESIGN PROCESS
Saint Laurent Paris positioned as world’s leading fashion brand in leather goods. The Kering guarantees how they use leather in Luxury Goods activities and where leather comes from. The group company mainly uses cowhide sourced from Europe, of which some 65% comes from France, and ensures full traceability precious skins used by its brands (“PPR reference…,” 2010, p. 51). Through careful management of its supply chain, Kering assures exceptional product quality. The group company selects the very best materials and has very strict control over production, whether in-house or by thoroughly selected and controlled external partners. Overall, Kering constantly monitors product development and the entire manufacturing process for quality control (“PPR reference…,” 2009, p. 42). Saint Laurent Paris keeps traditions of design constructed by its founder and brings more young and fresh in design that it is breathing new life into the spirit of revolution and democracy in fashion, the essence of iconic style, and impeccable French’s fashion elegance (“PPR reference…,” 2013, p. 25). The philosophy of Yves Saint Laurent turns fashion into art, with a mixture of feminine and masculine, classic and trend-setting designs upended the fashion world and still continues to surprise critics and fans. With Hedi Slimane and new name of the company, Saint Laurent Paris, it becomes more fresh, young, daring, and innovative design to satisfy younger clients (Robinson, 2013).
PART I – MARKET RESEARCH
23
MANUFACTURING ARRANGEMENT
Kering has control of the whole process of product development, of manufacturing, and of the distribution. Saint Laurent Paris is owned by Kering that Kering focused on a single business, design, manufacture and market desirable products (“About Kering,” 2012). Production is divided between Italy and France, where an historic workshop manufactures ready-to-wear garments. Through a license agreement with L’Oreal, Saint Laurent Paris produces and distributes fragrances and cosmetics (“PPR reference…,” 2013, p. 24). Saint Laurent Paris’s products include women’s and men’s ready-to-wear and accessories. Saint Laurent Paris produces the women’s ready-to-wear Rive Gauche line at facilities in France and licenses the right to manufacture and distribute certain products, including women’s and men’s apparel, accessories and eyewear (“Kering Holland…,” 2014).
Parent Company Control of the
whole process of production and
distribution
DESIGN
France
Italy MANUFACTURING
Creative Director Total creative responsibility for the brand’s image and all its collections
Hedi Slimane
License Agreement with L’Oreal
Figure 13. Manufacturing Arrangement (Source: www.kering.com/sites/default/files/document/ppr_ddr_2012_va.pdf)
FASHION CONCEPT
PART I – MARKET RESEARCH
24
DISTRIBUTION PRACTICES
The products are primarily sold through directly-operated stores where most luxury brands in Kering are distributed to customers and the group company ensures consistency regarding product display and service quality around the world through directly-operated stores. Saint Laurent Paris’s products are also distributed through a limited number of exclusive franchise stores, as well as the most prestigious boutiques, department and specialty stores (“PPR reference…,” 2009, p. 41). Saint Laurent Paris opened flagship store with new concept in Paris recently and has been operating in the UAE for almost a decade as franchise agreement and the joint venture will also open a flagship Abu Dhabi store that expansion of new store concept is the company’s one of the huge business investment (Duncan, 2013).
Retail Distribution Wholesale Distribution License Distribution
Directly-Operated Stores
Flagship Stores
Department Stores
Specialty Stores
Flagship Store
Franchised Stores (Limited number)
Figure 14. Distribution of Channels (Source: www.kering.com/sites/default/files/document/ppr_ddr_2012_va.pdf)
FASHION CONCEPT
PART I – MARKET RESEARCH
25
RETAILING
Saint Laurent Paris offers luxury products through directly-operated stores accounted for 60% of the company’s revenue in 2012, franchise stores, and department and specialty stores. In 2013, the company has directly-operated 104 stores; best-performing regions were the Middle East, sales growth jumped up 20.8%, and Greater China, revenue rose 24.3%. Also, in its traditional markets, sales were up a 14.9%. The company continues to expand its stores all around the world (“Kering first…,” 2013, p. 22). Several freestanding stores under franchise agreements opened all around the world, notably in the Middle East and in Malaysia and the company continues to sign a franchise agreement with UAE. Franchise stores opened mainly in the Middle East as well as Asia Pacific where the regions became huge profit driver for the company (“PPR reference…,” 2009, p. 51). As Saint Laurent Paris invested advertisement and media through editorial exposure and celebrity product placements, the company could have more competitive position in luxury markets and be more close to a broad range of customers through media exposure (“PPR reference…,” 2012, p. 29). Saint Laurent Paris introduced its new store concept which was inspired by the techniques and materials of French art deco and designed by Hedi Slimane that new store concept expands worldwide aggressively. The ysl.com website became a dynamic e-commerce platform that it gives customers more convenience to shop and more close to customers so that the company could see strong growth in revenue and brand recognition recently. The company has invested in social media and communications as well that it has extraordinary success in social platforms so, the company could approach many customers, especially the young, and gain more huge popularity. The company had nearly 1.2 million fans on Facebook and was one of the most popular luxury brands on Twitter over 1.1 million followers (“PPR reference…,” 2013, p. 25).
FASHION CONCEPT
PART I – MARKET RESEARCH
Gucci and Saint Laurent Paris have a strong brand presence in all around world, but Gucci is more identifiable brand. Within Kering, it
has luxury divisions, including Gucci, Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Stella McCartney, and so on. Gucci and Saint
Laurent, as luxury fashion label, are catering to a luxury market (“About Gucci,” 2012). Like Saint Laurent, Gucci distribute its variety of
products through the number of their directly operated stores and controls its distribution channels effectively. The company has a strong
investment in the web that the online shopping experience is equivalent to its brick and mortar. Also, Gucci has directly-operated 429 stores that are nearly four times higher than Saint Laurent (“PPR
reference…,” 2013, p. 18).
26
MARKET POSITION
SAINT LAURENT PARIS: TWO COMPETITORS
Louis Vuitton became a legend in the art of travel by creating luggage, bags and accessories as innovative as they were elegant and practical
(“Louis Vuitton,” 2013). Most luxury market consists of small private and publicly companies that make designer clothing, watches,
accessories, and other leather goods. Like Kering, LVMH is world’s leading luxury good conglomerate operated over 60 brands so that LVMH is the most direct competitor of Kering. LVMH includes the
luxury brands, such as Fendi, Donna Karan, Givenchy, Marc Jacobs, and etc., that directly compete with Kering that includes Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Saint Laurent, Gucci, and so on (“LVMH…,”
2012).
GUCCI
LOUIS VUITTON
PART I – MARKET RESEARCH
GUCCI
LOUIS VUITTON
GUCCI Headquarters - France Via Don Lorenzo Perosi, 6 Scandicci, Firenze, 50018 Italy Phone 39 0 55 29 00 17 Official Store www.gucci.com
27
GUCCI Corporate Office Headquarters – USA Gucci America, Inc. 50 Hartz Way Secaucus, NJ 07094 United States Phone 1 201 867 8800 Fax 1 201 348 5491
Figure 16. Gucci America, Inc. (Source: www.corporateofficeheadquarters.com/2013/04/gucci-
usa-corporate-office-headquarters.html#.UuwEYf1PqhY)
Figure 15. Gucci Headquarters (Source: www.hoovers.com/company-information/cs/company-
profile.GUCCIO_GUCCI_SPA.33c53017cb234011.html)
Figure 17. Photo of Gucci ad campaign (Source: www.fashiongonerogue.com/amanda-wellsh-elisabeth-erm-gucci-springsummer-2014-campaign/)
COMPETITION 1: GUCCI CONTACT INFORMATION
MARKET POSITION
PART I – MARKET RESEARCH
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LUXURY Gucci � Bottega Veneta � Saint Laurent � Alexander Mcqueen � Balenciaga �
Brioni � Christopher Bane � McQ � Stella McCartney � Sergio Rossi � Boucheron � Dodo � Girard-Perregaux � JEANRICHARD � Pomellato � Qeelin
SPORT & LIFESTYLE Puma � Volcom � Cobra � Electric � Tretorn
(“Luxury brands,” 2012)
COMPETITION 1: GUCCI ORGANIZATIONAL
STRUCTURE
Gucci was founded in Florence in 1921, Gucci is one of the world’s leading luxury fashion brand and has over 90 year history, which is owned by French company Kering (previously known as PPR), like Saint Laurent Paris. Patrizio di Marco, Gucci President and CEO, and Frida Giannini, the Creative Director, have further reinforced the long-standing values of the brand. With a renowned reputation for quality and Italian craftsmanship, Gucci designs, manufactures and distributes highly desirable products, including leather goods (handbags, small leather goods, and luggage), shoes, ready-to-wear, silks, timepieces and fine jewellery. Gucci products are sold exclusively through a network of directly-operated boutiques, a directly-operated e-commerce website, a limited number of franchises as well as selected department and specialty stores (“PPR reference…,” 2013, p. 18).
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CURRENT SALES
Gucci saw €1,755 million in revenue in first-half 2013, up to 1.6% as reported and 4.1% at comparable exchange rates against the same period of 2012. Gucci’s recurring operating income for first-half 2013 advanced 6.7% on a reported basis year on year to € 556 million. All of Gucci’s main product categories delivered robust sales growth during the period. Specifically, Leather Goods have shown the most promising growth, 58.4%, in all sales of product category. The Middle East, Latin America and Eastern Europe had very sustained growth in spite of the unfavorable economic environment in Europe. Especially, Asia-Pacific regions generated promising revenue growth. And, revenue was generated in its mature markets climbed 5.7% on a comparable basis (“Kering first…,” 2013, p. 18-19).
Figure 18. Gucci Revenue 2012-2013 (Source: www.kering.com/sites/default/files/document/
ppr_ddr_2012_va.pdf) FINANCIAL STANDING
€ 1,727.80
€ 1,754.80
€ 521.00
€ 556.00
2012
2013
REVENUE & RECURRING OPERATING INCOME OF FIRST-
HALF 2012-2013 (in € million)
Revenue Recurring operating Income
Figure 19. Gucci Revenue 2012 by product and regions
(Source: www.kering.com/sites/default/files/document/ppr_ddr_2012_va.pdf)
MARKET POSITION +1.6%
+6.7%
PART I – MARKET RESEARCH
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STYLE
CONCEPT
NUMBER OF STORES
GEOGRAPHIC DISTRIBUTION
High fashion. Italian style. Traditional craftsmanship. Global consciousness. Gucci embodies all these characteristics, producing exquisitely crafted luxury goods with a thoroughly modern sensibility. Gucci is deeply positioning in luxury market with modernity, craftsmanship, and sophistication (“About Gucci,” 2012). Gucci President and CEO, Patrizio di Marco, has made the long-standing values of the brand which include the mission of made in Italy, outstanding quality and superior artisan craftsmanship while perfectly combining them with its fashion authority and versatility (“PPR reference…,” 2011, p. 20). Gucci has a powerful geographic and global presence across the world. Gucci operates in five regions around the world, including; Western Europe, North America, Japan, Asia-Pacific and emerging countries. Gucci operated 446 stores directly, including 179 in emerging countries, of which 74 in Greater China. Excluding the reclassification of 11 Korean points of sales as directly-operated stores, the brand added six new stores during first-half 2012 (“Kering first,” 2013, p. 19).
Figure 20. Gucci Revenue 2012-2013 (Source: www.kering.com/sites/default/files/document/
ppr_ddr_2012_va.pdf)
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MAIN CATEGORIES OF MERCHANDISE
Gucci designs, manufactures and distributes highly desirable products, including leather goods (handbags, small leather goods, and luggage), shoes, ready-to-wear, silks, timepieces and fine jewellery. Gucci has a strong presence in leather goods across the world. Eyewear and fragrances are manufactured and distributed under license by global industry leaders in these two sectors (“PPR reference…,” 2013, p. 18). Also, Gucci launched kids’ line for infants and children. In 2002, Gucci Fashion and Accessories are distributed in 31 franchised stores. Through Gucci Timepieces, located in Neuchatel Switzerland, the Company assembles and distributes Gucci brand timepieces. Watches, which the company has more than one dozen distinct models, are distributed in all major markets around the world (“Kering Holland…,” 2014).
Figure 21. Gucci’s categories of merchandise (Source: www.gucci.com/us/home)
GUCCI WOMEN GUCCI MEN GUCCI KIDS
handbags ready to wear shoes evening wallets hats & gloves belts scarves & shawls small accessories fine jewelry technology silver & fashion
jewelry lifestyle bags watches luggage & travel sunglasses pet fragrances
shoes ready to wear belts suiting wallets formal wear small accessories ties luggage & travel scarves bags & business fine jewelry hats & gloves silver jewelry sunglasses fragrances pet watches
baby girl girls (2-12 years) baby boy boys (2-12years) baby shoes toddler shoes baby accessories kids shoes diaper bags kids
accessories Accessories kids travel for mom jewelry
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PRICE/QUALITY LEVEL
Gucci has become targeted women and men who are middle aged and high status individuals. And, they have high income that they do not care about high price points and they are more conscious of high quality and glamorous, innovative design. Also, Gucci’s target customers are usually expecting chic and sophisticated design that Gucci targets working women and men in the 35-55 age range (“Gucci SWOT,” n.d.).
Gucci aims for high fashion, timeless, and luxury goods that are exquisitely crafted. Gucci represents the best of Made in Italy with its combination of elegant opulence, high artisanry, and contemporary glamour. Gucci has become 90 year history and every Gucci piece carries with artisanal quality and unparalleled design (“About Gucci,” 2012). The company has been positioning in high, crafted quality.
Figure 22. Quality Level of Gucci
TARGET MARKET
French fashion’s elegant
Luxury
Craftsmanship
High quality
Contemporary
Artisan
Timeless Opulence
Gucci’s handbags and ready-to-wear mostly consist of high quality of fabrics made in Italy. Gucci’s price range is from $80.00 fragrance to $13,200.00 handbags (Gucci’s collections, 2012).
MARKET POSITION
PART I – MARKET RESEARCH
Louis Vuitton Headquarters - France 22 Avenue Montaigne Paris, 75008 France Phone 33 1 44 13 22 22 Fax 33 1 44 13 21 19 Corporate Website www.lvmh.com Official Store www.lousivuitton.com
33
Louis Vuitton Corporate Office Headquarters – USA 19 East 57th Street New York, NY 100222 United States Phone 1 212 931 2000
Figure 23. Louis Vuitton Headquarters France & US (Source: www.hoovers.com/company-information/cs/company-
profile.LVMH_Moët_Hennessy_Louis_Vuitton_SA.f120d33f05adaa0d.html)
Figure 24. Louis Vuitton 2014 ad campaign (Source: stylerumor.com/blog/2013/12/19/louis-vuitton-spring-summer-2014-ad-campaign/)
COMPETITION 2: LOUIS VUITTON
CONTACT INFORMATION
MARKET POSITION
PART I – MARKET RESEARCH
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ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE
LVMH is the world’s leading luxury good conglomerate, having 60 different brands that have positioned premium product categories (“Standard & Poors,” 2013). The group operates five different sectors, including Wines & Spirits, Fashion & Leather Goods, Perfumes & Cosmetics, Watches & Jewelry, and Selective retailing (“LVMH group,” n.d.). LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA produces and markets luxury goods under various product categories and brands. The company primarily operates in Europe, Asia and the U.S. It is headquartered in Paris, France, and employed 106, 348 people as of 2012 (“LVMH Moet…,” 2013, p. 3).
Selective retailing (4)
Perfumes & Cosmetics (11)
Watches & Jewelry (7)
Wine & Spirits (22 Brands)
Louis Vuitton Donna Karan
Fendi Kenzo Celine
Thomas Pink Berluti
Givenchy Loewe
Marc Jacobs Emillio Pucci
Edun NOWNESS
Fashion & Leather Goods
Figure 25. Louis Vuitton Organizational Structure (Source: www.lvmh.com/the-group/lvmh-companies-and-brands/fashion-leather-goods/louis-vuitton)
COMPETITION 2: LOUIS VUITTON
MARKET POSITION
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CURRENT SALES
LVMH saw revenue increases in Fashion & Leather Goods, which is most profitable sector in the group companies during 2012-2013. By geographic region of delivery, the revenue in Europe slightly declined from 20% in 2012 to 17% in 2013 because of the unfavorable economic environment. Inversely, the revenue in Asia excluding Japan was increased by 2 points and 1 point in other markets. The statistics show that LVMH is most popular and has a strong brand power in Asia (“Summary half…,” 2013, p. 8). Louis Vuitton continued to focus on product quality and distribution excellence that the company saw excellent momentum of leather lines and good progress of ready-to-wear. Also, the company continued to expand store network (“LVMH Q3 2013 Revenue,” 2013, p. 5).
Figure 26. LVMH 2013 Revenue (Source: www.lvmh.com/uploads/assets/Com-fi/Documents/en/Reports/Rapport_financier_semestriel_2013_VA.pdf) FINANCIAL STANDING
MARKET POSITION
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STYLE
CONCEPT
NUMBER OF STORES
GEOGRAPHIC DISTRIBUTION
Louis Vuitton originally designed airtight canvas trunks with flat bottoms and then he had his trademark signature brown and tan checked pattern (“Louis Vuitton label…,” n.d.). Group companies’ long-term success is rooted in a combination of artistic creativity and technological innovation. And, the group companies aim for every detail in products and ensure the perfection of their products (“Group mission…,” n.d.).
Louis Vuitton is always leading the avant-garde of fashion without compromising traditional craftsmanship and its design reflects innovation blended with tradition (“Company overview,” n.d.).
LVMH reaches luxury markets globally: in 2012, the US accounted for 23% of group revenues, France 11%, rest of Europe 20%, Japan 8%, rest of Asia 28%, and other markets 10%. LVMH distributes through 3,204 direct-operated stores and other third-party points of sale (“Standard & Poors,” 2013). The most profitable sector is fashion and leather goods: in 2012, the number of stores around the world is 1,280 and the number of stores is 1,246 in 2011. And, the group saw the revenue of Fashion & Leather Goods increased, € 9,926 in 2012, compared to previous year, €8,712 in 2011 (“Key figures…,” n.d.).
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MAIN CATEGORIES OF MERCHANDISE
LVMH operates across the five major luxury categories, including fashion and leather goods, wines and spirits, perfume and cosmetics, watches and jewellery, and selective retailing. Fashion and leather goods division is the main contributor to group profits that division includes those brands: Louis Vuitton, Donna Karan, Fendi, Kenzo, Celine, Thomas Pink, Berluti, Givenchy, and so on (“Standard & Poors,” 2013). Louis Vuitton, one of the most high-margin of luxury brands in LVMH, operates trunks, leather goods, handbags, ready-to-wear, shoes, watches, jewelry, accessories, sunglasses, and books (“Company overview,” n.d.). Louis Vuitton also sells Icons, Mon Monogram, and Legendary Monogram in women’s category as well as Mon Monogram in men’s section {“Louis Vuitton’s women,” 2013).
Handbags Icons Small leather goods Mon Monogram Accessories The Legendary Travel Monogram Shoes Technical Cases Ready-to-wear Fine jewelry Timepieces Books
Men’s Bags Mon Monogram Small leather goods Technical Cases Accessories Travel Shoes Ready-to-wear Fine jewelry Timepieces Books
Figure 27. Louis Vuitton Categories of Merchandise (Source: www.louisvuitton.com/front/#/eng_US/Collections/Women)
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PRICE/QUALITY LEVEL
Louis Vuitton’s target customers are premium segment men and women who are relatively rich working customers as well as customers who need to travel around world. Louis Vuitton became famous around Europe and the most popular and favorite luxury brand around world, especially Asia-Pacific region. With Louis Vuitton’ iconic handbags, many young women with middle class could enjoy its products and its clean design with practical function could appeal to all ages and social groups (“Louis Vuitton SWOT,” n.d.).
The mission of the LVMH group is to represent the most refined qualities of Western “Art de Vivre” around the world. The group companies aim for product excellence by ensuring the quality, endurance, and perfection of their products for their customers (“Group mission…,” n.d.). Louis Vuitton plays a role in developing modern luxury as well as the company reflects its passion of excellence in the products. Figure 28. Quality Level of Louis Vuitton
TARGET MARKET
Innovation
Avant-garde
Refine
Modern luxury
Elegance
High quality
Tradition Creativeness
Louis Vuitton was elegant and practical design and now is active on creative spheres on design (“Group mission…,” n.d.). Its recent collections consist of high quality fabrics, such as cotton, cashmere, leather, and silk, as Saint Laurent Paris and Gucci used for their collections. Louis Vuitton’s price range is from $33.00 books to $24,700.00 handbags (“Louis Vuitton’s women,” 2013).
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SAINT LAURENT PARIS SWOT ANALYSIS
§ Historical legacy § Owned by Kering: Strong brand
portfolio enables quick penetration and sustains brand loyalty
§ Low margin and limited geographic and global presence compared to competitors
§ Not well known in the average household as other luxury brands like Louis Vuitton or Gucci
§ Expanding into Asia-Pacific countries and emerging markets, like Middle East
§ Development of e-commerce and new store concept as well as retro branding of collection that has more appealing design than its competitors
§ Recession in European and American markets
§ Facing intense competition from Gucci and Louis Vuitton, which are more identifiable brands and have strong brand power around the world
Strengths
Opportunities Threats
Weaknesses SAINT LAURENT P A R I S
MARKET POSITION
PART I – MARKET RESEARCH
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EXPLANATION OF SWOT ANALYSIS
Strengths Yves Saint Laurent has a long history that Saint Laurent opened his own couture house with Pierre Berge in 1961 and then he opened the Rive Gauche pret-a-porter boutique in 1966 to sell his designs directly to the public attention. With Rive Gauche ready-to-wear boutique, he popularized ready-to-wear to democratize fashion. Saint Laurent wanted women to make their own personal style with his clothing. Saint Laurent himself, many endorsers and loyal customers do love and respect Saint Laurent’s design concept. Saint Laurent Paris is owned by Kering that offers two fast growing segments across the world; luxury brands, including Gucci, Alexander Mcqueen, Balenciaga, Stella McCartney, etc., and sport & lifestyle brands, including Puma, Volcom, etc., that are best known brands across the world. With strong brands and worldwide recognition, Saint Laurent Paris enable to penetrate new markets easily as well as retaining customers in a highly competitive environment (“Kering SWOT,” 2013). Weaknesses Saint Laurent Paris is not well known in the average household as other luxury brands like Louis Vuitton or Gucci. Louis Vuitton and Gucci have a strong brand power all around the world. Gucci is also owned by the same company, Kering, and Gucci is one of the leading luxury brands in the world. Also, LVMH operates through a multi-brand concept which means the company produces and sells its products under the different brands and has strong brand portfolio, like Kering. Also, Gucci and Louis Vuitton have more strong geographic presence and financial performance than Saint Laurent Paris (“LVMH SWOT…,” 2013). Kering saw that the groups’ revenue has shown a steady increase in recent times, but its profit margins have not been able to keep up with the margins of its competitors, LVMH and Gucci. According to the statistics, Kering’s operating margin was 18.1% in 2012, while LVMH had an operating margin of 20.4% (“Kering’s SWOT,” 2013).
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Opportunities Saint Laurent Paris continues an strong expansion of its global retail presence with new store concept. The company focuses on emerging markets as well as US, Europe, and Japan. Also, Saint Lauren Paris saw growing revenue in Asia-Pacific countries and emerging markets, like Middle East and China so that the company also expands global presence into the strong markets in those countries. In recent business time, Saint Laurent Paris has strong investments and development of brand. When Hedi Slimane was appointed as Creative Director at Saint Laurent Paris, he wanted to rebrand, such as youth, freedom and modernity so that he changed its original logo to Saint Laurent Paris and introduced new retro branding in 2012 that retro collection hit the stores. With its new collections, Saint Laurent Paris appeals many of young people, who don’t understand about its founder, Yves Saint Laurent, and its core brand identity. Also, Saint Laurent Paris develops e-commerce and new store concept that have more appealing design than its competitors (“PPR reference…, 2012,” p. 25). Threats Although Saint Laurent Paris saw a stable revenue increases in Europe and U.S., the company could not see high revenue increases because of rising labor costs in European and American markets. Saint Laurent Paris significantly operates in Europe so that increasing labor costs could affect the group’s operating costs and could impact the revenue inversely. Saint Laurent Paris has been facing intense competition from Gucci and Louis Vuitton, which are more identifiable brand and have strong brand power around the world. Gucci and Louis Vuitton have more strong global presence and financial performance than Saint Laurent Paris. Also, they are significantly larger and have substantially greater resources than Kering (“Kering SWOT,” 2013).
EXPLANATION OF SWOT ANALYSIS
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PRODUCT COMPARISON
When Hedi Slimane was appointed as Creative Director at Saint Laurent Paris in 2012, he renamed the brand and rebranded its collections that its design concept and trends have become very young but he recaptured its core brand value, freedom and modernity. Thus, Saint Laurent Paris offers girls look through 2013 and 2014 collection that collections showed Slimane’s obsessive reconceptualization of Girls Today (Blanks, 2013). Saint Laurent Paris’s official website offers luxury dress, tailored shirt and jacket, leather jacket, trench coat, and sweatshirt that they focused on the young people compared to Gucci (“Shop women,” n.d.). Gucci offers more chic and sophisticated looks focusing on working women and men featuring of looks with very splendid pattern (“Gucci collections,” 2012). Louis Vuitton offers clothing with colorful grid pattern and very feminine look, while Saint Laurent Paris offers mostly clothing with black color and rocker chic look. Gucci has very similar trend with Saint Laurent Paris. Gucci’s trends are “paint it black” and “second skin” that Gucci offers dress, jacket, bags, and accessories with all black and bags, pants, and accessories with chic leather (“Gucci’s collections,” 2012). Louis Vuitton’s collections are also very similar with Saint Laurent’s collection, such as girl’s look and puck (“Louis Vuitton’s women,” 2013). Also, Saint Laurent Paris and two competitors have similar design concept that is classic, practical, and sophisticated look when it comes to handbags. Louis Vuitton and Saint Laurent Paris are very similar design concept in recent RTW collections, such as muscular-feminine, punk, casual-chick look, and girls’ look.
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Saint Laurent Paris has its own iconic style that it is muscular feminine and rocker chic looks as well as Yves Saint Laurent’s core brand concept, the founder of Rive Gauche. Hedi Slimane is obsessed with girl’s look so that he introduced vintage, punk, and rocker chic look in two collections but, he keeps Yves Saint Laurent’s core brand identity; freedom and modernity. In directly opposition to Saint Laurent Paris, Gucci has comfortable look trend which is sporty new direction, track pants, basketball shorts, and lose tops with colorful pattern. Also, collection has freer in silhouette as well as luxury that is Gucci’s main design concept (Phelps, 2013). Louis Vuitton has mix and match trend and texture play in RTW’s offering that collections have very feminine and classic look so that clothing with those trends embraces a wide range of customers’ age as well as avant-garde rock-chic looks (“Louis Vuitton’s women,” 2013). The trends Saint Laurent Paris should consider for upcoming season are that different design concept, material uses, and silhouette. Hedi Slimane do love girls’ look, punk, and vintage concept shown in 2013 and 2014 collections that girls’ look was introduced in 2013 collection and it was shown in 2014 collection again. It is understandable that Saint Laurent Paris and Kering need to appeal more young people that have strong purchasing power so that the company showed those two similar collections. However, Saint Laurent Paris should consider its core brand value for upcoming collection, such as tailored muscular feminine tuxedo with perfect fitting and trouser suit that gives edge and classic look and embraces a broad range of customers. Also, many of loyal customers might expect that Saint Laurent Paris would show those muscular feminine and more classic looks, which are its core brand value, in its collection again.
PRODUCT COMPARISON
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Figure 31. Saint Laurent Spring 2014 Ready-To-Wear
(Source: www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2014RTW-YSLRG)
Figure 30. Saint Laurent Resort 2014 (Source: www.style.com/fashionshows/
review/2014RST-YSLRG)
Figure 29. Saint Laurent Fall 2013 Ready-To-Wear
(Source: www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2013RTW-YSLRG)
Figure 32. Saint Laurent handbags & small leather goods (Source: www.ysl.com/us/shop-product/women/handbags)
SAINT LAURENT PARIS RTW & LEATHER GOODS
PRODUCT COMPARISON
MARKET POSITION
PART I – MARKET RESEARCH
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PRODUCT COMPARISON Figure 34. Gucci Spring 2014 Ready-to-Wear
(Source: www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2014RTW-GUCCI)
Figure 33. Gucci Resort 2014 Ready-to-Wear (Source:www.style.com/fashionshows/review/2014RST-
GUCCI)
Figure 35. Gucci handbags & small leather goods (Source: http://www.gucci.com/us/category/f/handbags)
GUCCI RTW & LEATHER GOODS
MARKET POSITION
PART I – MARKET RESEARCH
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PRODUCT COMPARISON
Figure 36. Louis Vuitton Resort 2014 (Source: www.style.com/fashionshows/review/2014RST-
LVUITTON)
Figure 37. Louis Vuitton RTW 2014 (Source: www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2014RTW-
LVUITTON)
Figure 38. Louis Vuitton handbags & small leather goods (Source: www.louisvuitton.com/front/#/eng_US/Collections/Women/Handbags)
LOUIS VUITTON RTW & LEATHER GOODS
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Figure 39. Saint Laurent Paris ad campaign 2014 (Source: flooks.net/outfits/saint-laurent-campaign-springsummer-2014/)
Figure 43. Louis Vuitton ad campaign 2014 (Source: www.wanipedia.com/2014/01/new-update-fashion-and-
style-louis.html)
Figure 41. Gucci ad campaign 2014 (Source: thevividluxuryblog.co.za/gucci-fw-2013-2014-advertising-
campaign/)
Figure 42. Gucci website (Source: www.gucci.com/us/home)
Figure 40. Saint Laurent Paris website (Source:www.ysl.com/us)
Figure 44. Louis Vuitton website (Source: www.louisvuitton.com/front/#/
eng_US/Homepage)
MARKET POSITION
PART I – MARKET RESEARCH
PRODUCT COMPARISON
AD CAMPAIGN & OFFICIAL WEBSITE
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PART II
LINE DEVELOPMENT
SAINT LAURENT PARIS
49
TARGET CUSTOMER
She is in her mid thirties, age 35, and she currently works as a fund manager at the one of the best financial service company in New York. She was born in upper east side in New York where she lived with her parents, both doctors. From her childhood, she had a talent for numbers and statistics that she went to high school of economies and finance and she also enjoyed her school life. And then, she attended New York University, where she majored in finance and statistics. After graduating from college, she interned at Credit Suisee in New York and then she worked as a portfolio manager, which was responsible for investing a mutual and exchange-traded fund’s assets, in Credit Suisee for several years. She really admired Morgan Stanley so that now she currently works as a fund manager at Morgan Stanley.
She lives in Chelsea in New York which is known for its art galleries and has many entertainments that she can enjoy her life. She likes visiting galleries to see any art of works as well as traveling for relaxing. She usually does yoga and exercise in fitness center before going to work. On the weekends, she goes to the restaurants and clubs to hang out with her friends. Also, she do loves watching musical that she goes to the Broadway to see musicals.
Figure 45. Target customer (Source: the-opsis.com/blog/28/1/2014-paris-
haute-couture-week)
Figure 46. Target customer’s lifestyle & Chelsea (Source: www.wantdrivinglessons.com/chelsea)
PART II – LINE DEVELOPMENT
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She currently earns around $170,370 per year (“Occupational employement…,” 2013). Her first priority for paying is her apartment located between West 27th and West 28th Streets that she pays $3,695 per month (“Manhattan housing,” 2014).
TARGET CUSTOMER
She visits brand boutiques in Soho and fifth avenue as well as some concept stores once a month. She spends approximately between $2,500 and $5,800 per visit depending on merchandise categories. She usually visits her favorite stores, Saint Laurent Paris, as well as Louis Vuitton and Gucci because she loves wearing chic, edge, and manish look as well as casual style with rock-chic look that Saint Laurent offers. She visits fashion website, WGSN, to obtain style information and what the latest fashion trends are and she visits, style.com, to see about designers’ latest collections as well. Also, she subscribes fashion magazine, such as Vogue, Barzar, and Elle for fashion styling.
Figure 47. 5th avenue & Soho (Source: www.pinterest.com)
Figure 48. Fashion magazines (Source: www.allyoucanread.com/top-10-fashion-
magazines/)
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TARGET CUSTOMER
Figure 49. Target customer’s styles for upcoming season (Source: style.com)
Recently, she is seeking for androgynous and feminine looks for upcoming season, such as slouchy tailored suits, oversized coat, and skirt suits, because her favorite style is manish look. Also, she wants to achieve modern and minimal look by mixing and matching her own wardrobe with feminine looks so that she could make her look keep edge and chic and achieve feminine and minimal look with androgynous and retro vintage look. Saint Laurent Paris and some other designers, including Lanvin, Christopher Kane, Louis Vuitton, Antonio Marras, and so on, showed androgynous chic and feminine looks for their Fall 2014 and last fall season, such as very tailored pants suit, oversized coat, wide shoulder with cinched waist, cut-out dress, leather, tartan, and metallic that those key trends would perfectly match Saint Laurent Paris’s fall 2014 collection.
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Whenever fall season coming, comfortable and cozy silhouette, masculine tailoring, retro look, and sports-chic with warm and bold, rich color, and monochrome toned palette usually become predominant fashion trend that those silhouette or look provide bulkier volume for layering and femininity as well as minimal and chic look with neutral colors and warm feeling with rich colors. In fall 2014, the most predominant trend theme is “androgynous,” “sleep walker,” “retro; 50,60, and 70s,” “heritage; plaid,” “slit major,” and “sports” (“Women’s trend…,” 2013). Androgynous look always is dominant trend in fall season that gives chic and edge look as well as retro vintage look, 50, 60, and 80s revival, that provide feminine and modern minimalism. Also, plaids and sports look are still popular trend in fall 2014. Specifically, fall 2014 collection will be featuring more key items for women’s lifestyle rather than weather-related clothing unlike last fall collections (LeTrent, 2014). TREND REPORT
Figure 50. Women’s Trend Themes F/W 2014-15 (Source: weconnectfashion.com/fido/getarticle.fcn?&type=trends&SearchString=f/w+2014&id=737870PW0000123&start=10&tr=10)
(Source: www.fashionising.com/trends/b--fall-2014-fashion-trends-autumn-winter-2014-fashion-65820.html)
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TREND REPORT Key Items In terms of key items, the key items for fall 2014 are mostly related to the silhouette and trend theme, including shearlings for outwear with cozy furs, leather, slouchy suits, oversized coat, blanket coat, single and double-breasted wool coat, A-line coat, cinched waist dress, shift dress, culotte, and dressy sweater (“Trend reports,” 2014). Also, asymmetric, wrap skirts, slit mini-skirts, and cut-out dresses are very popular key items for fall 2014 that have been showing many times in the latest designers’ collections.
Silhouettes In terms of silhouettes, silhouette becomes oversized look with boxy shoulder, bulkier and elongated shape for top, jacket, coat, and pants that gives androgynous and comfortable, wearable look. And, fit-and-flare shapes and mini-skirt silhouette for dresses and skirts that gives femininity.
Figure 51. Silhouettes Fall 2014 (Source: www.swide.com/photo-gallery/women-trends-fw-2014-from-milan-london-paris-fashion-weeks-2013/2013/03/07/18-18)
Figure 52. Key Items Fall 2014 (Source: www.style.com/trendsshopping/trendreport/
012714_Pre_Fall_Trend_Report/#!trend-report/feature/curtain/landing)
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TREND REPORT
Colors In terms of colors, monochrome color, such as black, white, and charcoal, are the most important core colors. As predominant cool colors from the previous season shifts to warm tone, rich shades and bold color palette are dominant color in fall 2014 but, cool colors still act as accents as well as metallics. Berry tones, ultra blue, new mallard green, and Thai orange act as a fashion color (“WGSN,” 2014). Also, red and pales colors play an important role for this season acting as fashion color (“Doneger,” 2013).
Fabrics In terms of fabrics, natural skins and furs, leather, wool, and plaids or tartan are the dominant trend of fall 2014 as well as houndstooth, softly romantic fabrics in full of tweeds, twills, hairy and furry textures, and winter lace and sheers. Also, embellishments are important key items as well. In terms of prints, plaid stays on as a major pattern trend in fall/winter 2014 as well as digital prints, folk motifs, psychedelic prints, and modern art (Parascan, 2013). Print trend themes, including industrial evolution, modern myth, and rendering reality, are also popular for fall 2014 (“WGSN,” 2013).
Figure 54. Color Trend Fall 2014 (Source: www.donegercreativeservices.com/en/136911.htm)
Figure 53. Key Fabrics Fall 2014 (Source: http://www.wgsn.com/content/section/product-
categories/textiles.html)
PART II – LINE DEVELOPMENT
55
TREND REPORT
With aspects from the forecasts of fall 2014 fashion trend, the theme of my company’s line for fall 2014 is “À nous la liberté” which literally means “give us freedom” and it is Yves Saint Laurent’s design philosophy. The theme is the combination of masculine-chic and retro-vintage look that is predominant trend theme in fall 2014 so, it would give manish-look and femininity that they’re the signature looks of the company and the collection will stand out structure. Silhouettes In terms of silhouettes, it would mostly consist of masculine and ample silhouettes with boxy shoulder on the tops, slouchy pants, mini and knee length on skirts, and elegant sexy cut-out on dress. Key Items In terms of key items, it would be featuring with the signature look, such as le smoking tailored suit, leather jacket, oversized pea-coat with drop shoulder, sheer and leather shirt, tailored and leather bottoms, slit miniskirt, flare skirt, and elegant shift dress. Fabrics & Prints In terms of fabrics, it would be made of mostly wool, leather, houndstooth, silk, and metallic or lamé as well as Lurex and digital tweed. In terms of prints, industrial patterns and modern collage themes will be featuring for the collection. Colors In terms of colors, black as a signature color of the company will be predominant color but, white, charcoal, brown stone, and skin as core colors; red, claret, shocking pink, coal blue, green, blueprint, and purple as fashion colors; metallics (gold & silver) as accent colors will be used for the collection.
SAINT LAURENT LINE THEME
PART II – LINE DEVELOPMENT
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CONCEPT BOARD
Architecture 101 (Women’s Revolution) The collection’s theme reflects the combination of feminine and masculine that it is inspired by 60s fashion and its trend gives unisex silhouette as well as manish and ladylike looks. In the 60s era, men’s trend was very tailored-suit look and women’s trend was refined femininity and elegant style. Also, it reflects Yves Saint Laurent’s core design philosophy that he designed women’s clothing to give freedom without loosing aesthetics.
Figure 55. Concept Board PART II – LINE DEVELOPMENT
57
WGSN and Doneger state that monochromatic and soft mid-tones are core colors for a subtle, salable color story. Warm tones, red shades, ultra blue, purple, and green act as fashion color. Pastel colors, such as pink pearl, peach, and pale skin, give fresh look on tops and bottoms. Metallic gold and silver are strong accent colors and cool colors still act as accent colors that add warmth and shine (“WGSN,” 2013). For the new line of the company, Saint Laurent Paris will keep its signature color, black. Main colors consist of neutral colors and warm-tone and deep-rich color, such as charcoal, deep blue, red alert, and malachite. Also, some accent colors will be used – vivid green, pea, or metallic gold. Ø Naturally Neutral
- Pure black, charcoal, light grey, walnut, dark chocolate, and midnight blue in combination of different fabrications for comfortable, salable color story (“Doneger,” 2013).
COLOR STORY
PANTONE® 16-0924
PANTONE® 14-4201
PANTONE® 19-3803
PANTONE® 19-3903
PANTONE® 19-0000
PANTONE® 19-3939
PART II – LINE DEVELOPMENT
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Ø Playful - Ruddy shade, Thai orange, shocking pink, ultra blue, and brown stone are crayon colors that highlight the Autumn clothing and can be used for plaids and knitwear (“Doneger,” 2013).
PANTONE® 18-1662
PANTONE® 16-1255
PANTONE® 18-2333
PANTONE® 18-4252
PANTONE® 19-1116
PANTONE® 11-4800
PANTONE® 12-2103
PANTONE® 13-1114
PANTONE® 11-0107
Ø Pastel Pales -Pure white, peach, pale skin, and pink and blue pearl are light and airy color for oversized coats and tops that pales colors can be harmonized with neutral color (Parascan, 2013).
PANTONE® 14-4317 COLOR STORY
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Ø Mineral - Vivid green, pea, lemon, and metallic gold and silver act as accent colors that can be used on tops, bottoms, and dresses for giving highlight and entertainment look (“WGSN,” 2013).
Ø Sumptuous & Saturated - Rich and deep colors acting as fashion color offer a luxurious, glamour look for tops and bottoms that can be used in wool and leather; Surf the web, tawny leaves, emerald purple and green, and malachite (Parascan, 2013).
PANTONE® 19-3952
PANTONE® 19-1725
PANTONE® 19-2924
PANTONE® 19-5920
PANTONE® 19-4535
PANTONE® 17-5936
PANTONE® 17-0535
PANTONE® 12-0740
PANTONE® 16-0836
PANTONE® 14-5002
COLOR STORY
PART II – LINE DEVELOPMENT
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Figure 56. Color matrix for A/W 14/15 (Source: http://www.wgsn.com/content/report/Creative_Direction/Autumn_Winter_2014_15/a_w_14_15_global_colour_analysis.html)
PANTONE ®17-1462
PANTONE ® 13-0752
PANTONE ®17-6153
PANTONE ® 18-4252
PANTONE ® 18-2333
PANTONE ® 16-1255
PANTONE ® 18-1662
PANTONE ® 15-0955
PANTONE ® 18-3945
PANTONE ® 18-3230
PANTONE ® 18-3840
PANTONE ® 11-4800
PANTONE ® 11-0604
PANTONE ® 12-2103
PANTONE ®13-0624
PANTONE ® 14-4505
PANTONE ®13-4110
PANTONE ® 13-4105
PANTONE ® 17-1328
PANTONE ® 16-1441
PANTONE ® 17-0839
PANTONE ® 16-5515
PANTONE ® 17-3808
PANTONE ® 17-1048
PANTONE ® 18-1454
PANTONE ® 18-5112
PANTONE ® 18-1807
NEUTRALS
PANTONE ® 14-0000
PANTONE ® 13-1008
PANTONE ® 15-1316
BRIGHTSSATURATEDMID-TONES
SOFT MID-TONES DARKSPASTELS
PANTONE ® 18-4105
PANTONE ® 18-1246
PANTONE ® 18-1555
PANTONE ® 18-0515
PANTONE ® 18-3918
PANTONE ® 19-3803
PANTONE ® 18-1048
PANTONE ® 19-1532
PANTONE ® 19-5920
PANTONE ® 19-4535
PANTONE ® 19-3953
PANTONE ®18-2027
PANTONE ® 19-1218
PANTONE ®19-1521
PANTONE ® 19-4118
PANTONE ® 19-4022
GREY
ORANGE/BROWN
RED
YELLOW/GREEN
GREEN/ BLUE
BLUE
PINK/ PURPLE
A/W 14/15 WGSN Global TCX/TPX Colour Matrix
NEUTRALSBRIGHTSSATURATEDMID-TONES
SOFT MID-TONES DARKSPASTELS
GREY
ORANGE/BROWN
RED
YELLOW/GREEN
GREEN/ BLUE
BLUE
PINK/ PURPLE
A/W 14/15 WGSN Global Colour Metallics Matrix
PANTONE ® 8945C
PANTONE ® 874C
PANTONE ® 871C
PANTONE ®8404C
PANTONE ® 8400C
NEUTRALSBRIGHTSSATURATEDMID-TONES
SOFT MID-TONES DARKSPASTELS
GREY
ORANGE/BROWN
RED
YELLOW/GREEN
GREEN/ BLUE
BLUE
PINK/ PURPLE
A/W 14/15 WGSN Global Colour Metallics Matrix
PANTONE ® 8945C
PANTONE ® 874C
PANTONE ® 871C
PANTONE ®8404C
PANTONE ® 8400C
COLOR STORY
PART II – LINE DEVELOPMENT
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COLOR STORY
PRINT STORY Engineered Graphic Line Repeated Geometric
Pattern
Figure 58. Print Story (Source: www.wgsn.com/content/report/Design_Forecast/Print_and_Graphics/Autumn_Winter_14_15/
a_w14_15_print_graphicsforecast.html)
Figure 57. Color Story (Source: www.wgsn.com/content/report/Creative_Direction/Autumn_Winter_2014_15/
a_w_14_15_us_commercial_womenswear_colour.html)
Color and Print Story for Fall 2014 Collection
Pure Lily Dark Cocoa
Charcoal Black Deep Blue
Hunter Green Red Alert Claret Peacock Metallic Gold
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FABRIC STORY
Swatch Fabric name Fiber Content Suitability Special Care Vendor Wholesale
price per yard
Dyed Leather
100% Lambskin
Coat, Skirts, Top, Pants
Specialist Dry Clean
Sawyerbrook.com $ 27.00/skin
Sew Classic Wool Suiting 100% Wool Coats,
Jackets Dry Clean
Only Joann.com $ 24.49
Wool Blend Tweed
Wool, Polyamide
Jackets, Skirts
Hand Wash Cold or Dry
Clean Moodfabric
.com $ 18.00
Wool Gabardine 100% Wool Jackets,
Pants Hand Wash Cold or Dry
Clean Denverfabri
cs.com $ 25.00
Silk Double Georgette 100% Silk Shirts, Dress Dry Clean,
Hand Wash Denverfabri
cs.com $ 27.10
Hammered Satin
80% Acetate, 20% Polyester Pants
Hand Wash Cold or Dry
Clean Denverfabri
cs.com $ 15.00
Crepe de Chine Silk 100% Silk Lining
Hand Wash Cold or Dry
Clean Denverfabri
cs.com $ 10.00
PART II - LINE DEVELOPMENT
Category - Jackets SAINT LAURENT PARIS FALL 2014 STYLE SHEET
Style Number Short Description Retail Price
SLJK1201 Le Smoking Single-Breasted Tuxedo Jacket
$ 2,950.00
Sizes Colors
XS, S, M, L
Fabric Name Fiber Content Lining
Wool Gabardine 100% Wool Crepe de Chine Silk
Description
Le Smoking Single-Breasted Tuxedo jacket with pointed lapel, interior breast pocket, 2 flap front pockets, 5 buttons at cuff
Trims, Special treatments, etc.
Satin trimmed lapel, Dry clean
63
STYLE SHEET
Black Pure Lily
Jacket drawing in Adobe Illustrator. (“Saint Laurent…,” n.d.)
Deep Blue
PART II - LINE DEVELOPMENT
Category - Jackets SAINT LAURENT PARIS FALL 2014 STYLE SHEET
Style Number Short Description Retail Price
SLJK1202 Cropped Single-Breasted Jacket
$ 2,950.00
Sizes Colors
XS, S, M, L
Fabric Name Fiber Content Lining
Wool Blend Tweed Wool, Polyamide Crepe de Chine Silk
Description
Cropped single-breasted jacket, fitted & straight shape, flap pockets on front, 3 buttons closure
Trims, Special treatments, etc.
Dry clean
64
Added buttons and pockets in Adobe Illustrator. (“WGSN,” 2012)
Hunter Green
Metallic Gold Peacock Claret
STYLE SHEET
PART II - LINE DEVELOPMENT
Category - Coats SAINT LAURENT PARIS FALL 2014 STYLE SHEET
Style Number Short Description Retail Price
SLCT1203 Oversized Double-Breasted Coat
$ 3,790.00
Sizes Colors
XS, S, M, L
Fabric Name Fiber Content Lining
Sew Classic Wool Suiting 100% Wool Crepe de Chine Silk
Description
Oversized double breasted coat with peak, wide lapel, wide shoulders, interior breast pocket, two flap front pockets, 6 buttons closure, 5 buttons at cuff
Trims, Special treatments, etc.
Dry clean
65
Black
Coat drawing in Adobe Illustrator. (“Saint Laurent…,” n.d.)
Dark Cocoa
STYLE SHEET
PART II - LINE DEVELOPMENT
Category – Leather Coat SAINT LAURENT PARIS FALL 2014 STYLE SHEET
Style Number Short Description Retail Price
SLCT1204 Single-Breasted Leather Coat
$ 5,490.00
Sizes Colors
XS, S, M, L
Fabric Name Fiber Content Lining
Dyed Leather 100% Lambskin Crepe de Chine Silk
Description
Single-breasted leather coat with drop shoulder, knee length, 4 buttons closure, 2 slit pockets
Trims, Special treatments, etc.
Specialist dry clean
66
Adapted coat drawing in Adobe Illustrator. (“Louis Vuitton…,” 2013)
Black
STYLE SHEET
PART II - LINE DEVELOPMENT
Category – Shirts SAINT LAURENT PARIS FALL 2014 STYLE SHEET
Style Number Short Description Retail Price
SLST3501 Classic Oversized Semi- Sheer Shirt
$ 1,490.00
Sizes Colors
XS, S, M, L
Fabric Name Fiber Content
Silk Double Georgette 100% Silk
Description
Classic oversized sheer shirt with geometric patterns (repeated square print on breast except sleeves, collar, and button front line), straight shape, classic collar, 8 invisible buttons on front, 2 buttons cuff
Trims, Special treatments, etc.
Signature large ribbon trim on neck. Dry clean or Hand wash
67
Added ribbon in Adobe Illustrator. (“WGSN,” 2012)
Black Pure Lily
STYLE SHEET
PART II - LINE DEVELOPMENT
Category – Blouses SAINT LAURENT PARIS FALL 2014 STYLE SHEET
Style Number Short Description Retail Price
SLST3502 Vintage Prim Semi-Sheer Blouse
$ 1,550.00
Sizes Colors
XS, S, M, L
Fabric Name Fiber Content
Silk Double Georgette 100% Silk
Description
Vintage prim semi sheer blouse with engineered graphic line (stripe pattern), high collar, puff sleeves, 8 invisible buttons, 2 buttons cuff
Trims, Special treatments, etc.
Dry clean or Hand wash
68
Erased buttons front in Adobe Photoshop. (“WGSN,” 2012)
Black Pure Lily
STYLE SHEET
PART II - LINE DEVELOPMENT
Category – Leather top SAINT LAURENT PARIS FALL 2014 STYLE SHEET
Style Number Short Description Retail Price
SLST3503 Leather High Neck Top $ 2,790.00
Sizes Colors
XS, S, M, L
Fabric Name Fiber Content Lining
Dyed Leather 100% Lambskin Crepe de Chine Silk
Description
Leather high neck top with elbow-length sleeves, straight shape, drop shoulder, stripe pattern quilted on front
Trims, Special treatments, etc.
Specialist dry clean
69
Adapted top drawing in Adobe Illustrator. (“Calvin Klein…,” 2013)
Hunter Green Black
STYLE SHEET
PART II - LINE DEVELOPMENT
Category – Dress SAINT LAURENT PARIS FALL 2014 STYLE SHEET
Style Number Short Description Retail Price
SLOP3504 Draped Mini Dress $ 2,950.00
Sizes Colors
XS, S, M, L
Fabric Name Fiber Content Lining
Silk Double Georgette 100% Silk Crepe de Chine Silk
Description
Draped mini dress with high neck, long sleeves, structured shape, back zip closure, no pockets
Trims, Special treatments, etc.
Collar and cuff metallic gold trim. Dry clean or and wash
70
Adapted dress drawing in Adobe Illustrator. (“Saint Laurent…,” n.d.)
Red Alert Black Claret
STYLE SHEET
PART II - LINE DEVELOPMENT
Category – Trousers SAINT LAURENT PARIS FALL 2014 STYLE SHEET
Style Number Short Description Retail Price
SLPT5781 Fluid Slouchy Trousers $ 850.00
Sizes Colors
2, 4, 6, 8, 10
Fabric Name Fiber Content
Hammered Satin 80% Acetate, 20% Polyester
Description
Fluid Slouchy Trousers, front slit pockets, low-waisted pants with darts on front, front pleats, hook closure, zip opening
Trims, Special treatments, etc.
Dry clean or Hand wash
71
Pants drawing in Adobe Illustrator. (“WGSN,” 2013)
Black Charcoal
STYLE SHEET
PART II - LINE DEVELOPMENT
Category – Pants SAINT LAURENT PARIS FALL 2014 STYLE SHEET
Style Number Short Description Retail Price
SLPT5782 Tailored Skinny Trousers $ 850.00
Sizes Colors
2, 4, 6, 8, 10
Fabric Name Fiber Content
Wool Gabardine 100% Wool
Description
Tailored skinny trouser, low-waisted slim pant with front darts, front pleats, hook closure, zips opening
Trims, Special treatments, etc.
Dry clean or Hand wash
72
(“WGSN,” 2013)
Black Charcoal Deep Blue Pure Lily
STYLE SHEET
PART II - LINE DEVELOPMENT
Category – Mini-Skirt SAINT LAURENT PARIS FALL 2014 STYLE SHEET
Style Number Short Description Retail Price
SLSK5783 Slit Mini Skirt $ 1,190.00
Sizes Colors
XS, S, M, L
Fabric Name Fiber Content Lining
Wool Blend Tweed Wool, Polyamide Crepe de Chine Silk
Description
Slit mini skirt, back zip closure, cut-out front
Trims, Special treatments, etc.
Dry clean or Hand wash
73
Adapted miniskirt drawing in Adobe Illustrator. (“No. 21…,” 2013)
Hunter Green
Metallic Gold Peacock Claret
STYLE SHEET
PART II - LINE DEVELOPMENT
Category – Skirts SAINT LAURENT PARIS FALL 2014 STYLE SHEET
Style Number Short Description Retail Price
SLSK5784 Cut-Out Leather Skirt $ 3,990.00
Sizes Colors
XS, S, M, L
Fabric Name Fiber Content Lining
Dyed Leather 100% Lambskin Crepe de Chine Silk
Description
Cut-out leather skirt with knee length, flare A-line shape, zip front closure
Trims, Special treatments, etc.
Specialist dry clean
74
STYLE SHEET
Adapted skirt drawing in Adobe Illustrator. (“A/W 14/15…,” 2014)
Claret
PART II - LINE DEVELOPMENT
75
5 KEY ITEMS
PART II – LINE DEVELOPMENT
76
LOOK ONE In the third look, the company’s iconic le smoking jacket is paired with classic sheer shirt and tailored skinny trouser. Light weight wool fabric used in tuxedo jacket and slim trouser gives very tailored look that is suitable for workplace and important meeting. As wearing sheer shirt with geometric print and signature ribbon trim in tuxedo suit, it gives sophisticated and modern look. This total looks offer androgynous look as well as edge and chic that this tuxedo suit is the company’s signature style and reflects Yves Saint Laurent’s core brand value. Also, it conveys the company’s line concept, very structured and architectural shape.
1.
2.
3.
Garments Description 1. Iconic Le Smoking Single-Breasted Tuxedo Jacket in Wool Gabardine 2. Classic Oversized Semi-Sheer Shirt in Silk Double Georgette 3. Tailored Skinny Trousers Wool Gabardine
LOOK ONE
PART II – LINE DEVELOPMENT
77
LOOK TWO In the second look, cropped tweed jacket is paired with slit tweed mini skirt. Those pieces are perfectly working on tweed fabric and this skirt suit gives elegant and sexy look by cutting out skirt. As pairing prim sheer blouse with the skirt suit, it gives very feminine look as well. And, they reflect 60s fashion trend that is one of the Fall 2014 key trend themes and the company’s line concept, such as cut off jacket and mini skirt. Also, they reflect key items for the fall 2014, such as tweed fabric, vintage prim styling blouse, and cut-out skirt. This total looks give feminine, elegant, and sexy look that would attract a broad range of customers who are looking for very feminine look.
3. Garments Description
1. Cropped Single-Breasted Jacket in Wool Blend Tweed 2. Vintage Prim Semi-Sheer Blouse in Silk Double Georgette 3. Slit Mini Skirt in Wool Blend Tweed
1.
2.
LOOK TWO
PART II – LINE DEVELOPMENT
78
LOOK THREE
LOOK THREE In the first look, silk double georgette semi-sheer shirt is paired with hammered satin slouchy trousers that those fabrics are fluid and sheen so, they provide wearable and feminine look. Those pieces will represent Saint Laurent Fall 2014 collection’s concept, masculine-feminine. And, with oversized double-breasted coat that has very basic menswear look, it not only gives bulkier silhouette and warm feeling, but also offers manish look that the coat can be paired with any other merchandise categories. This total looks give androgynous and chic, modern look.
Garments Description 1. Oversized Double-Breasted Coat in Wool Suiting 2. Classic Oversized Semi-Sheer Shirt in Silk Double Georgette 3. Fluid Slouchy Trousers in Hammered Satin
1.
2.
PART II – LINE DEVELOPMENT
79
LOOK FOUR In the fourth look, leather high neck top is paired with flare cut-out leather skirt. Those pieces offer a strong femininity, elegant, and manish look by pairing with oversized wool double-breasted coat. Leather top can be tucked into the leather skirt that has front zip for closure and ornament trim so, it creates cut-out style and sexy look. Those leather pieces convey the collection’s concept as well as the fall 2014 trend, such as high neck, flare skirt, and leather. This looks would be suitable for many different occasions, such as working or going out, and they are the combination of masculine and feminine look.
1.
2.
3.
Garments Description 1. Oversized Double-Breasted Coat in Wool Suiting 2. Leather High Neck Top 3. Cut-Out Leather Skirt
LOOK FOUR
PART II – LINE DEVELOPMENT
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LOOK FIVE In the fifth look, silk draped mini dress is paired with iconic le smoking tuxedo jacket. Draped mini dress has very structured shape but fluid that it offers sexy and sophisticated look. The tuxedo jacket is well tailored and it offers edge and chic style. As pairing silk draped dress with tuxedo jacket, it gives chic, classic, and sexy look that it is inserting feminine into masculine. The looks can be versatile that they are suitable for workplace due to tailored tuxedo jacket as well as party or going out due to feminine and elegant dress.
1. 2.
Garments Description 1. Iconic Le Smoking Single-Breasted Tuxedo Jacket in Wool Gabardine 2. Draped Mini Dress in Silk Double Georgette
LOOK FIVE
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LOOKS SUMMARY
Five key items chosen for the company’s fall 2014 collection are iconic le smoking tuxedo jacket, oversized sheer shirt, slouchy trouser, slit mini-skirt, and cut-out leather skirt because those pieces reflect the company’s concept that inspired by 60s trends, Architecture 101, such as structured, very tailored shape and masculine-feminine look. Also, they reflect fall 2014 key trends, such as bulkier and oversized silhouette, tailored fabric, skirt suit, retro-vintage, and cut-out clothing. Total five looks consist of tailored tuxedo suit, skirt suit, oversized coat, flare skirt, and dress that those looks reflect the company’s line concept, masculine-feminine look. Fabrics used in the company’s collection mostly consist of wool suiting, tweed, silk, leather, and satin that they make the clothing comfortable and wearable as well as femininity, modernism, and elegant look. Ample silhouette and tailored look with monochrome color give very androgynous and minimal look. Fit and flare shape, sheer, and cut-out clothing with neutral and fashion color offers very feminine and elegant look. Those five key items reflect one of fall 2014 key trends, such as androgynous and retro-vintage, and the company’s line concept, very structured and tailored look that those looks would appeal to a broad range of customers who are the younger clients and YSL’s long time fans that are expecting YSL’s core brand concept .
PART II – LINE DEVELOPMENT
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PART III
MERCHANDISING PLANS
SAINT LAURENT PARIS
83 PART III - MERCHANDISING PLANS
COST CALCULATION
Unit Cost (40%) Unit retail x .40
Target Fabric Cost (60%) Unit cost x .60
Fabric Quick Cost Yardage required x Wholesale price per yard
QUICK COSTING
Table 2. Quick Costing for each garments in the company’s line
Table 1. Calculation for Quick Costing
In the table 2., Quick Costing reveals all garments can be offered for retail prices listed in style sheet.
84
QUICK COSTING
Table 3. Estimated Total Fabric Quick Cost
The table 3 shows the calculation of Total Fabric Quick Cost for all garments in detail including garment fabric, trim, and lining. Style number SLJK 1201, tuxedo jacket, will trim lapel with hammered satin fabric. Estimated lining requirements have the same figures with estimated fabric requirements.
PART III - MERCHANDISING PLANS
85
SIX-MONTH MERCHANDISING
PLAN
PART III - MERCHANDISING PLANS
86
SIX-MONTH MERCHANDISING
PLAN
FORMULA
Planned Retail Purchases for Saint Laurent Paris Soho flagship store, located at 80 Greene Street, New York, for November 2014 is $113,260.00.
Sales Plan Season Total x Last Year % = Planned Sales $350,000.00 x 18% = $63,000.00
Retail Stock (BOM) Planned Sales x Stock-Sales Ratio = BOM
$63,000.00 x 2.0 = $126,000.00 Markdowns Planned Sales x Planned Markdown % = Planned Markdowns
$63,000.00 x 2% = $126,000.00 Retail Purchases (Planned Sales + Planned Markdowns + Ending Stock (EOM))
– Retail Stock (BOM) = Retail Purchases ($63,000.00 + $1,260.00 + $175,000.00) - $126,000.00 = $113,260.00
Initial Markups Retail Purchases x (100%-Markup percentage) = Initial Markups
$113,260.00 x (100%-60%) = $45,304.00 Ending Stock (EOM) End of November is Beginning of December
$175,000.00 = $175,000.00 Total Stock-to-Sales Total Stock BOM / Total Sales = Total Stock-to-Sales Ratio Ratio $852,950.00 / $350,000.00 = 2.4
PART III - MERCHANDISING PLANS
87
RATIOS
STYLE DISTRIBUTION
Saint Laurent Paris’s Fall 2014 collection, Architecture 101, consist of 12 garments including three tops, four bottoms, one dress, two jackets, and two coats. The company’s line concept reflects masculine-feminine with architectural shape so, jacket and coat have the highest percentage of style distribution ratios because of the weather as well as strong key items that reflect key trend themes and silhouettes of fall 2014. According to the WGSN (2013) and Doneger (2013), androgynous, boxy silhouette, and feminine looks are the key trends that are mostly related to outerwear. Tops can be paired with different types of bottoms so that they make up more percentage than bottoms. And, the dress is the only one class of the company’s line that it makes up 10% for style distribution.
STYLE DISTRIBUTION
Class Number Class Percentage
1 Tops 28%
2 Bottoms 22%
3 Dress 10%
4 Jacket/Coat 40%
Tops 28%
Bottoms 22% Dress
10%
Jacket/Coat 40%
STYLE DISTRIBUTION
PART III - MERCHANDISING PLANS
88
RATIOS
SIZE DISTRIBUTION
Saint Laurent Paris embraced a broad range of customers, age between 25 and 50 originally. However, recently the company became targeted at very young male and female. As Hedi Slimane is in charge of Total Creative Director, the company’s design concept became very young, girl’s look, and rock-chic style that those design concept is more accessible to the younger demographic. Also, many young women are obsessed with skinniness that they tend to feel better and buy more when they fit into a smaller size. So, retail companies tend to cut size down which means the smaller the garment size, the larger the profits (Triffin, 2014). Saint Laurent will offer letter size for tops, skirts, dress, and jackets/coats and number size for trousers. Company’s line more focuses on a smaller size so that small size has the highest percentage figure, but medium size also has nearly the same percentage as small size.
X-Small 19%
Small 33%
Medium 32%
Large 16%
SIZE DISTRIBUTION – LETTER
2 15%
4 35% 6
30%
8 10%
10 10%
SIZE DISTRIBUTION – NUMBER
PART III - MERCHANDISING PLANS
89
RATIOS
COLOR DISTRIBUTION
According to WGSN (2013) and Doneger (2013), neutral color is the most important core color, like black, charcoal, and white, as well as pastel colors. Warm-tone colors and rich shades plays a crucial role in fashion colors, but cool colors still act as fashion color. Specifically, metallic colors are strong key colors in fall 2014. Saint Laurent Paris will keep its signature color, black, so black has the highest percentage for its collection as well as charcoal and pure lily because those colors reflect line’s concept perfectly, androgynous look. And, rich, bold colors and warm tone colors will use in different merchandise types, such as claret, hunter green, peacock, and blue as well as metallic colors that will use in dress and tweed fabric garments. Those colors create feminine and elegant looks that reflect Saint Laurent’s line concept.
Pure Lily Dark Cocoa Charcoal
Black Red Alert Claret
Peacock Metallic Gold Deep Blue
Hunter Green
COLOR DISTRIBUTION
10% 5%
12% 20%
5% 12%
9%
9%
9%
12%
9%
COLOR DISTRIBUTION
Color Percentage
Pure Lily 10%
Dark Cocoa 5%
Charcoal 9%
Black 20%
Red Alert 5%
Claret 12%
Peacock 9%
Metallic Gold 9%
Deep Blue 9%
Hunter Green 12%
PART III - MERCHANDISING PLANS
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ASSORTMENT PLAN
TOPS
Style #: SLST3501 Classic Oversized Semi-Sheer Shirt
PART III - MERCHANDISING PLANS
91
ASSORTMENT PLAN
TOPS
Style #: SLST3502 Vintage Prim Semi-Sheer Blouse
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92
ASSORTMENT PLAN
TOPS
Style #: SLST3503 Leather High Neck Top
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93
ASSORTMENT PLAN
BOTTOMS
Style #: SLPT5781 Fluid Slouchy Trousers
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94
ASSORTMENT PLAN
BOTTOMS
Style #: SLPT5782 Tailored Skinny Trousers
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95
ASSORTMENT PLAN
BOTTOMS
Style #: SLSK5783 Slit Mini Skirt
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ASSORTMENT PLAN
BOTTOMS
Style #: SLSK5784 Cut-Out Leather Skirt
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97
ASSORTMENT PLAN
DRESS
Style #: SLOP3504 Draped Mini Dress
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ASSORTMENT PLAN
JACKETS
Style #: SLJK1201 Le Smoking Single-Breasted Tuxedo Jacket
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99
ASSORTMENT PLAN
JACKETS
Style #: SLJK1202 Cropped Single-Breasted Jacket
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ASSORTMENT PLAN
COATS
Style #: SLCT1203 Oversized Double-Breasted Coat
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101
ASSORTMENT PLAN
COATS
Style #: SLCT1204 Single-Breasted Leather Coat
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PURCHASE ORDER
Previously estimated budget is $113,260.00 for the Planned Retail Purchases for Saint Laurent Paris Soho flagship store, located at 80 Greene Street, New York, for November 2014. Saint Laurent’s Total Costs came in under the company’s budget, $112,768.00.
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PART IV
RETAIL/LINE PRESENTATION
SAINT LAURENT PARIS
SAINT LAURENT PARIS
FALL 2014 COLLECTION “Architecture 101 (Women’s Revolution)”
104 PART IV – RETAIL/LINE PRESENTATION
TEST MARKET RESEARCH
The collection’s concept was inspired by 60s fashion, which was one of the popular fashion trend for fall 2014, and its trend gives unisex silhouette as well as manish and ladylike looks. The name of the line, Architecture 101, was created with the purpose, to deliver the collection’s theme that very tailored and structured silhouette not only reflect masculine look, but also femininity. A building is usually designed to be in harmony with natural environment so that abstract buildings and natural elements used in Saint Laurent’s electronic catalog convey the meaning of the collection’s concept properly. Thus, Saint Laurent’s electronic catalog includes natural elements, constructions, objects related to interior designs, and sculptures because objects related to architecture and natural elements could emphasize the line theme as well as color story of the collection, such as black dominated color, white, and bold color. Also, the concept of the catalog could accentuate each garments of fall 2014 collection, such as tuxedo suit, oversized coat, tailored and vintage shirt, slouchy and tailored trouser, mini skirt and dress, and leather clothing.
ELECTRONIC CATALOG CONCEPT EXPLANATION
105
TEST MARKET RESEARCH
ELECTRONIC CATALOG COVER PAGE
PART IV – RETAIL/LINE PRESENTATION
106
LE SMOKING SINGLE- BREASTED TUXEDO JACKET Item SLJK1201 $ 2,950.00 Le Smoking Tuxedo jacket with satin trimmed lapel, interior breast pocket, 5 buttons at cuff Select Size Color Composition 100% Wool/100% Silk Lining
Black Pure Lily Deep Blue
XS S M L
TAILORED SKINNY TROUSER Item SLPT5782 $ 850.00 Low-waisted slim pants with front darts and pleats, hook closure, zips opening Select Size Color Composition 100% Wool
Black Charcoal Deep Blue Pure Lily
2 4 6 8 10
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CROPPED SINGLE-BREASTED JACKET Item SLJK1202 $ 2,950.00 Fitted & straight shape, flap pockets on front, 3 buttons closure Select Size Color Composition Wool & Polyamide /100% Silk Lining
SLIT MINI SKIRT Item SLSK5783 $ 1,190.00 Back zip closure, cut-out front Select Size Color Composition Wool & Polyamide /100% Silk Lining
XS S M L
Hunter Green Metallic Gold
Peacock Claret
Hunter Green Metallic Gold
Peacock Claret
XS S M L
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CLASIC OVERSIZED SEMI- SHEER SHIRT Item SLST3501 $ 1,490.00 Repeated geometric pattern, straight shape, classic collar, 8 invisible buttons on front, 2 buttons at cuff Select Size Color Composition 100% Silk
XS S M L
VINTAGE PRIM SEMI-SHEER BLOUSE Item SLST3502 $ 1,550.00 Engineered graphic line, high collar, puff sleeves, 8 invisible buttons, 2 buttons at cuff Select Size Color Composition 100% Silk
XS S M L
Black Pure Lily
Black Pure Lily
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OVERSIZED DOUBLE-BREASTED COAT Item SLCT1203 $ 3,790.00 Peak, wide lapel, wide shoulders, interior breast pocket, two flap front pockets, 6 buttons closure, 5 buttons at cuff Select Size Color Composition 100% Wool/100% Silk Lining
XS S M L
Black Dark Cocoa
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FLUID SLOUCHY TROUSER Item SLPT5781 $ 850.00 Front slit pockets, low-waisted pants with darts on front, front pleats, hook closure, zip opening Select Size Color Composition 80% Acetate & 20% Polyester
2
Black Charcoal
4 6 8 10
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111
SINGLE-BREASTED LEATHER COAT Item SLCT1204 $ 5,490.00 Drop shoulder, knee length, 4 buttons closure, 2 slit pockets Select Size Color Composition 100% Lambskin/100% Silk Lining
XS S M L
DRAPED MINI DRESS Item SLOP3504 $ 2,950.00 High neck, long sleeves, structured shape, back zip closure, no pockets Select Size Color Composition 100% Silk /100% Silk Lining
XS S M L
Red Alert Black Claret
Black
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LEATHER HIGH NECK TOP Item SLST3503 $ 2,790.00 Elbow-length sleeves, straight shape, drop shoulder, stripe pattern quilted on front Select Size Color Composition 100% Lambskin/100% Silk Lining
XS S M L
CUT-OUT LEATHER SKIRT Item SLSK5784 $ 3,990.00 Knee length, flare A-line shape, zip front closure Select Size Color Composition 100% Lambskin/100% Silk Lining
XS S M L
Hunter Green Black
Claret
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TEST MARKET RESEARCH
SALES FORMS
Sales forms are from fifteen Saint Laurent’s customers with similar demographic and lifestyle. Each of the fifteen customers received a $5,500.00 to go shopping within the Fall 2014 “Architecture 101” collection. In the trend report slide for target customer, she visits the store to make purchases once a month. She usually spends approximately between $2,500 and $5,800 per visit depending on merchandise categories that the amount she spends, $5,800, is the price based on the highest price range within the entire product lines. Thus, the amount of Saint Laurent gift certificate, $5,500, was based on the target customer’s spending habits as well as the highest price range in the fall 2014 collection.
Gift Certificate created in Adobe Photoshop (Source: http://nymag.com/thecut/2012/07/facebook-commenters-
horrified-by-ysls-new-logo.html)
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TEST MARKET RESEARCH
SALES FORMS
CUSTOMER #1 Style Number Description Color Size Retail Price
SLJK1201 Le Smoking Single-Breasted Tuxedo Jacket Black XS $ 2,950.00
SLSK5783 Slit Mini Skirt Peacock S $ 1,190.00
SLPT5782 Tailored Skinny Trousers Black 4 $ 850.00
Total $ 4,990.00
CUSTOMER #2 Style Number Description Color Size Retail Price
SLOP3504 Draped Mini Dress Red Alert S $ 2,950.00
SLST3502 Vintage Prim Semi-Sheer Blouse Engineered Graphic Print S $ 1,550.00
Total $ 4,500.00
CUSTOMER #3 Style Number Description Color Size Retail Price
SLCT1203 Oversized Double-Breasted Coat Dark Cocoa S $ 3,790.00
SLPT5781 Fluid Slouchy Trousers Black 2 $ 850.00 SLPT5781 Fluid Slouchy Trousers Charcoal 4 $ 850.00
Total $ 5,490.00
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TEST MARKET RESEARCH
SALES FORMS
CUSTOMER #4 Style Number Description Color Size Retail Price
SLJK1202 Cropped Single-Breasted Jacket Metallic Gold XS $ 2,950.00
SLSK5783 Slit Mini Skirt Metallic Gold XS $ 1,190.00
Total $ 4,140.00
CUSTOMER #5 Style Number Description Color Size Retail Price
SLCT1204 Single-Breasted Leather Coat Black S $ 5,490.00
Total $ 5,490.00
CUSTOMER #6 Style Number Description Color Size Retail Price
SLJK1201 Le Smoking Single-Breasted Tuxedo Jacket
Black S $ 2,950.00
SLPT5781 Fluid Slouchy Trousers Black 4 $ 850.00 SLPT5782 Tailored Skinny Trousers Charcoal 6 $ 850.00
Total $ 4,650.00
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TEST MARKET RESEARCH
SALES FORMS
CUSTOMER #7 Style Number Description Color Size Retail Price
SLSK5784 Cut-Out Leather Skirt Claret S $ 3,990.00
SLSK5783 Slit Mini Skirt Hunter Green M $ 1,190.00
Total $ 5,180.00
CUSTOMER #8 Style Number Description Color Size Retail Price
SLJK1201 Le Smoking Single-Breasted Tuxedo Jacket
Deep Blue M $ 2,950.00
SLST3501 Classic Oversized Semi-Sheer Shirt Black M $ 1,490.00
SLPT5782 Tailored Skinny Trousers Deep Blue 8 $ 850.00
Total $ 5,290.00
CUSTOMER #9 Style Number Description Color Size Retail Price
SLCT1203 Oversized Double-Breasted Coat Black XS $ 3,790.00
SLST3502 Vintage Prim Semi-Sheer Blouse Pure Lily S $ 1,550.00
Total $ 5,340.00
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TEST MARKET RESEARCH
SALES FORMS
CUSTOMER #10 Style Number Description Color Size Retail Price SLJK1201 Le Smoking Single-Breasted
Tuxedo Jacket Black M $ 2,950.00
SLST3501 Classic Oversized Semi-Sheer Shirt Geometric Print M $ 1,490.00
SLPT5781 Fluid Slouchy Trousers Black 4 $ 850.00 Total $ 5,290.00
CUSTOMER #11 Style Number Description Color Size Retail Price SLJK1202 Cropped Single-Breasted
Jacket Claret M $ 2,950.00
SLST3501 Classic Oversized Semi-Sheer Shirt Pure Lily M $ 1,490.00
SLPT5782 Tailored Skinny Trousers Deep Blue 6 $ 850.00 Total $ 5,290.00
CUSTOMER #12 Style Number Description Color Size Retail Price SLST3503 Leather High Neck Top Hunter Green L $ 2,790.00 SLSK5783 Slit Mini Skirt Hunter Green M $ 1,190.00
Total $ 3,980.00
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TEST MARKET RESEARCH
SALES FORMS
CUSTOMER #13 Style Number Description Color Size Retail Price
SLCT1203 Oversized Double-Breasted Coat Dark Cocoa S $ 3,790.00
SLST3502 Vintage Prim Semi-Sheer Blouse Pure Lily S $ 1,550.00
Total $ 5,340.00
CUSTOMER #14 Style Number Description Color Size Retail Price
SLJK1201 Le Smoking Single-Breasted Tuxedo Jacket
Pure Lily L $ 2,950.00
SLST3501 Classic Oversized Semi-Sheer Shirt Pure Lily L $ 1,490.00
SLPT5782 Tailored Skinny Trousers Pure Lily 10 $ 850.00
Total $ 5,290.00
CUSTOMER #15 Style Number Description Color Size Retail Price
SLCT1204 Single-Breasted Leather Coat Black M $ 5,490.00
Total $ 5,490.00
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119
Sales for Week of November 14, 2014 Fall 2014 Sales Report
TEST MARKET RESEARCH
SALES REPORT
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TEST MARKET RESEARCH
SALES REPORT EXPLANATION
Table 4. Sum of Total Quantity in terms of style, color and size distribution in the sales form
Target customers of Saint Laurent are usually professional women and have a highly-paid that they prefer chic, classic, and feminine look. In terms of style, Le Smoking tuxedo suit and tailored trouser have the highest number of quantity because of signature look of Saint Laurent and customer’s favorite style. Also, classic oversized shirt and slouchy trouser have a higher number because comfortable silhouette and masculine tailoring looks are very popular fashion trend for fall 2014 as well as slit mini skirt and prim blouse that gives a feminine look. In terms of color, black has the highest number as well as pure lily because of signature color of Saint Laurent and color trend that monochrome color is usually predominated in the fall season. Also, warm and bold palette act as the fashion color. According to the size ratio, small and 4 are the popular sizes because the company targeted the young adult and customers more prefer smaller size. Medium size also has the higher number because American women usually have the medium size.
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PLANOGRAM VIEW
Planogram designed in SmartDraw and edited in Adobe Photoshop.
PART IV – RETAIL/LINE PRESENTATION
122
PLANOGRAM – KEY
W1-A W1-B
W1-C W2-A
& W2-B
W3-A
A-1 & A-2 B-1, 2, 3, & 4 S1-A S1-B S1-C S2-C
W4-A, B, C, &
D W5-A W6-A
& W6-B
S2-B S2-A
C-1, 2, 3, & 4
D-1 & D-2 E-1
SMW
LMW SLA SLPF
Planogram designed in SmartDraw and edited in Adobe Photoshop.
PART IV – RETAIL/LINE PRESENTATION
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PLANOGRAM LEGEND
PROPS AND ACCESSORIES
GARMENTS
PART IV – RETAIL/LINE PRESENTATION
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PLANOGRAM EXPLANATION
Saint Laurent Paris’s Fall 2014 Collection, Architecture 101 planogram is made of three black base walls. It is decorated antique door wall in the front wall for hanging all garments and the black wall on the either sides for placing Saint Laurent’s large advertising photo frame and hanging mannequin. The colors used in its planogram are mostly black color and monochrome color because those are a significant color for the company and one of the most popular color for fall 2014 fashion trend. Also, garments are very structured shape as well as classic, modern, androgynous, and feminine look so that simple black base wall can match with the garments’ style and antique door wall for hanging the garments would emphasize the collection that is mostly chic, simple, and modern look. The antique door wall expresses the company’s line theme and also it perfectly matches with black base wall so, it reflects very structured shapes and femininity that those show company’s line concept, masculine feminine. Saint Laurent’s target customers became the young female and male and they have a high-paid, specialized job so, they prefer chic, classic, and modern style. Therefore, the planogram for the company’s store is designed to satisfy their needs and attract them to the store.
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STORE LAYOUT
The red box indicates the planogram in Saint Laurent Paris’s boutique store. Store layout designed in SmartDraw.
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126
WINDOW DISPLAY
Window display designed in SmartDraw and edited in Adobe Photoshop.
PART IV – RETAIL/LINE PRESENTATION
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WINDOW DISPLAY - KEY
Window display designed in SmartDraw and edited in Adobe Photoshop.
F-1
G-1
G-2
H-1
H-2 J-1 J-2
F-1 &
G-1
G-2 SMB
STS
COH SF
SSS
TM
LT
HG HG
LT
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WINDOW DISPLAY LEGEND
PROPS AND ACCESSORIES
GARMENTS
PART IV – RETAIL/LINE PRESENTATION
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WINDOW DISPLAY EXPLANATION
Saint Laurent Paris identifies itself as a boutique store. Its building is made of white rough rock and the building has a two large closed windows for displaying garments on the either side and two small windows just above the closed windows. By using white color of building and black color of window frame for the company’s store, customers and people could recognize easily what the brand is because they are its signature color. Also, the colors reflect the company’s line concept. And, there are two types of arcade windows on the either side so that customers can see the look of the company’s key items when they go inside of the store. According to the Trend Hunter (2013), surreal storefront displays are very popular window concept with many retail stores, such as mystical, spectacular, movie-inspired, playful, whimsical window displays, and so on. So, window display for Saint Laurent has an abstract art theme featuring abstract steel tree and square sculpture, a solid figure, torso mannequins, and couch made of leather and marble so that the props can show the line concept, Architecture 101, and they harmonize with the merchandise collection that mannequins are wearing. And, each window displays the company’s line concept, androgynous and feminine look. And, each window could convey the collection’s color, like monochrome and bold palette, and silhouette concept, like oversized, tailored look, and fit shape. Each window brings the androgynous and feminine look but, the concept of window display could reflect the main line theme, Architecture 101, like very structured, tailored look and modern minimalism.
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References – Figures/Pictures Figure 46. Target Customer’s Lifestyle & Chelsea http://www.wantdrivinglessons.com/chelsea http://studentrush.org/products/ http://www.kinesics-studio.com Figure 55. Concept Board http://www.ysl.com/corporate/us/saint-laurent-paris/anthology/ http://www.flowersoftheworld.com/blog/category/arpad-baksa-architect/ http://askmissa.com/2013/08/01/fashion-history-yves-saint-laurent/ http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/Yves_Saint_Laurent_(Brand) http://beatles.wikia.com/wiki/The_Beatles_Wiki http://www.dreamstime.com/royalty-free-stock-photo-pile-colorful-fabrics-image13657455 http://www.flickr.com/photos/russellbarnes/with/8147509703 http://houseofemerald.com/2014/02/09/paris-in-black-and-white/
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Planogram http://babydreambackdrops.com/item_836/Shabby-Door--60x80.php http://subastralinc.com/blog/body-form-mannequins-save-on-overtime/ Window Display http://msutoday.msu.edu/news/2012/eli-and-edythe-broad-donate-works-to-broad-art-museum-at-msu/ http://thetrendologie.com/2014/04/13/saint-laurent-stores-design/ http://www.wgsn.com/content/section/inspiration-design/creative-direction.html http://www.displaysense.co.uk/faceless-female-mannequin-black-gloss-sitting.html
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