186950

Copyright © 1976, 1993by Akademische Druck- u. Verlagsanstalt, Graz. All rights reserved under Pan American and International Copyright Conventions .

Published in Canada by General Publishing Company, Ltd., 30 Lesmill Road, Don Mills, Toronto . Ontario.

Published in the United Kingdom by Constable and Company, Ltd., 3 The Lanchesters, 162-164 Fulharn Palace Road, London W6 9ER.

This Dover edit ion , originally published in 1993,is a new selection of illustrations from the two-volume Design MOl(fson Mexican Indian Textiles , originally published by Akademische Druck- u. Verlagsanstalt, Graz, Austria, in 1976. The present volume retains the general sequence of material of the original volumes, and the captions are based on the original text. A new Publisher's Note. derived from the original frontmatter, has been added.

DOVER 'Pidonal«-lrcbne SERIES

This book belongs to the Dover Pictorial Archive Series . You may use the designs and illustrations for graphics and crafts applications, free and without special permission, provided that you include no more than ten in the same publication or project. (For permis­sion for additional use, please write to Dover Publications, Inc., 31East 2nd Street, Mineola, N.Y. 11501.)

However, republication or reproduction of any illustration by any other graphic service, whether it be in a book or in any other design resource , is strictly prohibited.

Manufactured in the United States of America Dover Publications, Inc., 31 East 2nd Street, Mineola, N.Y. 11501

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Weitlaner-Johnson, Irmgard. [Design motifs on Mexican Indian textiles. Selections] Mexican Indian folk designs: 252 motifs from textiles / Irmgard Weitlaner-Johnson.

p. cm. - (Dover pictorial ar chive series) A selection of illustrations from the author's two volume Design motifs on Mexican

Indian textiles, published in 1976. ISBN 0-486-27524-8 (pbk.) 1. Indians of Mexico-Textile industry and fabrics . 2. Textile design-Mexico­

Classification . I. Title . II. Series. FI219.3.T4W4425 1993 74SA'089'97072-dc20 7 ;) - -10

CIP

186950

Publisher's Nate

T HE PRESENTVOLUME is a new selection of illustrations from the scholarly, carefully researched two-volume

work Design Motifs on Mexican Indian Textiles by lrmgard Weitlaner-lohnson. The aim of the original and of this new version is to stimulate interest in the artistic creativity of Mexican Indian textiles by acquainting the reader with a large number of different design elements (and significant variants) associated with Mexican In­dian textiles.

Two hundred fifty-two designs, taken from motifs on textiles from twenty ethnic groups, are included. They have been arranged by ethnic group, in a geographical sequence from the northwest to the southeast of Mexico. A map showing the location of thirty-five Mexican ethnic groups, including those represented in this volume, will be found on page iv.

The designs were transferred to paper by three methods : The majority were derived by reconstructing the designs on squared paper; some were traced directly onto paper from the source material; a few were drawn freehand . The captions accompanying the designs in­clude the names of the ethnic groups that are the sources of the designs, and a description of the structural ele­ments of each design and the type of textile from which each was taken. English-language descriptions of the textiles are given in the captions, in place of the tradi­.onal Mesoamerican names . A brief description of the

more common textile types, with their Mexican Indian esignations, follows. No attempt has been made to con­y the extent of color usage in the production of Mexican 'an textiles, although the ethnic populations had de­

loped the art of creating and using animal, vegetable mineral dyes with great sophistication by the time of Spanish Conquest.

Garment and textile types are common to all Mexican :ndian peoples. Among the most common-and most - corated-i-are the huipil, a woman's sleeveless tunic­

- garment; the jaia, a sash or belt worn by men and en; the enredo, a wraparound skirt; the quech­

tn itl, a woman's shoulder cape; the servilleta, a or rectangular cloth used for covering food or for

ceremontal purposes; and the talega, a woven pouch or _ Almost all the designs of these traditional forms are s-Celumbian inorigin. _- various elements found in the designs are all

. used and reflect the natural environment, the

enduring place in the culture of pre-Columbian imagery and in many instances the encroachment of Western in­fluence. Geometric figures such as triangles, diamonds, zigzag lines, squares, rectangles and to a lesser extent chevrons and parallelograms are often found singly or combined in repeating patterns as borders or as back­ground fill-in for allover patterns. Bird forms appear in almost every type of Indian textile. They range from small simple designs to large elaborately ornamented representations of multiheaded eagles. Animal forms (dog, monkey, horse. bull. lion) are all widely used. Plant motifs are also used extensively, including the Tree-of­Lifemotif, often seen as a free-standing design in combi­nation with animal motifs, typically butterflies and hum­mingbirds , and other plant motifs. In many cases, the motifs themselves have become so conventionalized or stylized that they seem unrecognizable. A traditional device, the ilhuitl motif, comprising an S-motif, is ubiqui­tous and gives rise to many variations, including Z- and X-motifs, angular scrolls and pirals.

The breadth of expression and artistry found in these designs is a tribute to the Mexican Indian weaver's craft. The designs , passed on from mother to daughter, repre­sent a visual tradition that dates back to the pre­Columbian period . Although there are virtually no extant examples of textiles dated prior to the mid-nineteenth century, a strong link to the designs of pre-Columbian Mexican Indians can be observed in the representations of clothing in stone sculptures, figurines and ceramics. Many pre-Columbian designs are clearly discernible in the work of the twentieth-century weavers. The present­day designs of certain Mixteco weavers, for example, bear a striking similarity to the stone mosaic designs of the Mitla ruins in Oaxaca.

In the latter part of the twentieth century, this long and rich tradition of textile design is prey to the dictates of contemporary economics. In many villages it is no longer possible to support a family creating textiles on the tradi ­tional backstrap looms, and the traditions of weaving are already beginning to die out with the older women. The present volume is an attempt to help preserve the ancient heritage of weaving and embroidering, as practiced by Mexican Indians, whose magnificent cultural and aes­thetic achlevcrucure !Huville cUuVlc cVl11cuu; vi UICU C;A­

cellence in the textile arts.

Map of Mexico Showing Locations of Ethnic Groups A /·;tll1lic GrOll/J,1) Represented in This Volwne

· I AIIIII:/,gO : Guerrero * 8 Chantal: Tabasco 15 Mazahua: Mexico, Michoacan • .! 1 :0 111 : Nayarit 9 Chuj: Chiapas *16 Mazatec: Oaxaca • .I 1 :1111'11 11'1': ( )ax aca *10 Huasteco: San Luis Potosi *17 Mestizo : Mexico

" 1 :11 11111 11 '1': (:lIl'lTero 11 Huave: Oaxaca *18 Mixe: Oaxaca • ~; ( :111111110 : Oaxaca "12 Huichol: Naya rit, Ialisco *19 Mixteco: Oaxaca, Guerrero • II 1 :111 11 11 11 11 '1': ()axara 13 Maya: Yucatan *20 Nahua: Veracruz, Puebla, Hidalgo, San Luis §-- --7..........- ( i ( :1111111 111 : ()axaca 14 Mayo: Sonora Potosi, Ialisco, Guerrero

.........

21 Ocuilteco: Mexico :, "" ", '--, *22 Otomf: Queretaro , Hidalgo, Puebla, Mexico ~ ',----,-1 '\ 23 Popoluca: Veracruz

\ -, *24 Tarahumara: Chihuahua '\ ,, 25 Tarasco: Michoacan \ I , ,,_ ~ _, *26 Tepecano: Ialisco

SO NO RA \ ' ), *27 Tepehua: Veracruz, Hidalgo ~ ' --, \ I , 28 Tepehuan: Durango ' ~ '\ : " "29 Tlapancco: Guerrero CH '""A""A ..

30 Totonac: Veracruz, Puebla \" \ . ''. "\

, A 1111 II "' I A 31 Trique: Oaxaca -. '. ' , / , I (", 24 I " " , '\.. 32 Tzeltal: Chiapas

*33 Tzotzil : Chiapas ' / I: 1', " "I \.. ," \,"" " , ..

-' t. I •• ••-> , " "', : fI' " ' '' '' '''' : , *34 Zapotec: Oaxaca ' , ••..1 " I "

'-1 ) . .. 35 Zoque: Chiapas I < , I " ' , . .. , \ . . .. I' RANGO d I , \~/

' 0 U ~ , '\,

". , -- - -" / I ) , /" " N ; / , I

" \ I ZACAT! C , / ' : ; ,AM A'" II' A GULF " ," ;' " ~)" { " \ ," '. .>'" 28 : ~; "',~/ , "'" ' ''' '' '' OF I I " ~'7 ,') /', I ';I\NIIII . I'" '" l'Wz6,AGUAS).., ' II I

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1- 19 5

1 2

TARAHUMARA. 1: Reversible pattern of diamnnd-within-diarnond units . Man's or wo­man's sash. 2: Geometric motifs changing within zigzag areas. Man's or woman's sash. 1

3

4

TEPE CANO. 3: Double-headed feathered serpent. Rare old woman's shoulder cape. 4: Interlocking stepped-fret motif with serrated edges. Rare old shoulder cape. 2

5

TEPECANO. 5: Twined serpe nt motif with serrated edges. Rare old shoulder cap e. 3

6

7

CORA. 6: Twisted cord motif. Bag. 7: Double-head ed eagle with fancy crests in the form of spira ls; geometric forms fill in the background. Bag. 4

8 9

10

11

HUICHOL. 8: Pair of countered S-motifs. Woman's shoulder cape. 9: Row of crossed X-motifs. Woman's blouse. 10: Pattern of diamonds with cross in center. Bag.

511: Repeated pattern of S-motifs. Man's cape.

12

13

HUICHOL. 12: Double-headed feathered serpent, paired and countered. Sash. 13: Two pairs of S-motifs creating a four-sided unit contai ning a diamond and stylized floral pattern. Sash. 6

IIIIII I1

III

14

15

H UICHOL. 14 : Row of diamonds with ser rated unit s and angular spira ls. Man's cape. 15: Allover pattern of diamond and cross-with in-cross motifs; bilateral a rra ngement. Small pouch. 7

17

16 18

HUICHOL. 16: Interlocking S-units with serr a ted edges. Woman's shoulder cape . 17: Variant of interlocking S or cord motif with serrated edges. Woman's shoulder cape. 18: Variant of interlocking S-motif with diagonal serrated edging unit s. Woman's sash. 8

19

20

21

HUICHOL. 19: Interlocking arrow motifs with serrated edges and hook ends. Woman's shoulder cape. 20: Series of diamond-within-diamond units with serrated edges. Woman's shoulder cape. 21: Variation of stepped-fret motif; allover interlocking design . Small pouch. 9

23

HUICHOL. 22: Large 8-pointed star (flowers) with interlocking scepter-like motifs. Woman's shoulder cape. 23: Row of diamonds, alternating with row of diamond-with­hooks . Neckpiece from a woman's shirt. 10

24

HUICHOL. 24: Allover pattern of hexagons with interlocking arrow units, vertically connected. Square cloth used for covering food or for ceremonial purposes. 11

25

26

27

28

HUICHOL . 25: Stylized scorpions. Narrow band. 26: Allover stepped-fret motif pattern. Small pouch. 27: Decorative stripe of stepped triangles. Woman's shoulder cape. 28: Variant of interlocking stepped-fret motif. Man's trousers. 12

29 30

HUICHOL. 29: Interlocking spiral motif with serrated units at sides. Woman's shoulder cape . 30: Allover pattern of interlocking and serrated spiral units. Man's cape . 13

31

32

HUICHOL. 31: Allover pattern of interlocking hooks with serrated edges. Bag. 32: Series of 8-pointed stars (flowersi) with each section showing a pair of dog motifs. Woman's shoulder cape. 14

33

34

OTOMi. 33: Allover diamond -within-diamond patt ern. Bag. 34: Allover pattern of zigzags with serrated edges, which alterna te with rows of stylized flowers having small crosses in each petal. Bag. 15

35

36

37

OTOMi. 35: Allover cliamond pattern enclosingsmaller diamonds with serrated borders. Bag. 36: Allover cliamond pattern; variant of 35. Bag. 37: Altern ating light and dark

16 flowers forming bord er. Woman's shoulder cape .

38

39

OTOMI. 38: Bilateral a rra ngement of birds and plant motif. Sash. 39: Allover diamond pattern composed of serrated zigzag lines, with paired crosses and geometric units inside diamond -shap ed a reas. Bag. 17

40

41

OTOM\. 40: Alternating motifs of stylized flowers and X-shaped units. Bag. 41: Upper border exhibits Z-twist pattern with cross stripes; main pattern is an allover design of zigzags with serrated triangles at upper and lower apices. Bag. 42: Doll figures within horizontal rows of triangles and stripes. Bag.

42

18

43

44

OTOM!. 43: Border of stepped zigzags. Bag. 44: Border of stripes, stepped lines and zigzags. Bag. 19

45

OrOMI. 45: Large stylized eagle. Woman's shoulder cape. 20

46 47

49

48

50 51

OTOM!. 46-51: Various animal forms; birds, roosters, horse. Woman's shoulder cape. 21

52

53

56 55

57

OTOMi. 52-58: Various animal forms (dogs, monkey, horses, mule) and a doll figure. Woman's shoulder cape. 22

59 60

61

23OTOMI. 59-61: Various birds, some double-headed. Woman's shoulder cape.

62

63

6564

O TOM !. 62: Square sha pe with s tar and cro ss units. Wom an's shoulde r ca pe . 63: Border of stylized flowers. Woma n's shoulder cape. 64, 65: Variants of squa re motifs, bordered by angular scrolls and having centers ofcheckered or latti ce-like design. Rare old shoulder cape. 24

66

OTOMi. 66: Ornate border pattern of hexagon-within-hexagon motifs, some with serrated edges and with criss-cross units in center. Rare woman's shoulder cape. 25

68

69

67 71

70

OTOMI. 67-71: Stylized bird, animal and plant motifs. From fine bands for braids and man's sashes. 26

72

73 74

O TOMi. 72-74: Stylized doll figures . Sashes. 27

75

76

DrOM!. 75, 76: Variants of stylized animals (donkeys"). Woman 's sash. 28

78 77

79

29 OTOMJ. 77-79: Various animal forms. Woman's sash.

f ~ :~ .' t ', ~

80

82

8381

86

84 85

30 OTOMI. 80-86: Various animal forms. From fine bands for braids and woman's sash.

t 869 ,50

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<fJ-c:: C':l E « .... Q),....

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31

88 89

OTOMi. 88: Repeating geometric form of diamonds with serrated edges. Band for braids. 89: Narrow border of repeating geometric forms. Woman's sash . 32

90

91

TEPEHUA. 90: Plain and serrated triangles and an allover pattern of interlocking frets. Woman's shoulder cape. 91: Highly stylized leaf-and-flower motif. Rare old woman's shoulder cape. 33

92

..­c

93

HUASTECO. 92, 93: Prancing animals with long bushy tails, decorated with flowers. Woman's shoulder cape. 34

94

HUASTECO. 94: Large conventional floral pattern, bilateral arrangement. Woman's shoulder cape. 35

95

96

HUASTE CO. 95: Conventionalized floral pattern with birds and butterflies. Bag. 96: Stylized floral pattern. Woman's shoulder cape. 36

37

•)

98

- '

99

AMUZGO. 98: Flower moti fs arran ged within crossed ba nds. Woma n's tunic. 99: Double-headed eagles, small birds and geometric units, arranged within crossed ba nds. Woman's tunic. 38

100

101

AMUZGO. 100, 101: Abstract design motifs a rranged within crossed bands. Woman 's tunic. 39

102

40 MESTiZO. 102: Tree-of-Life design. Embroidery sa mpler.

186.95iO

104

103

105

MESTIZO. 103-105: Double-headed eagle, crown a nd pair of crowned lions. Embroidery sampler. 41

106 107 108

109

NAHUA. 106-108: Simple cross -bands motifs. Traditional neck-opening decoration on old-style woman's shoulder cape. 109: Conventionalized diamond-and-hooks motifs. Old-style woman's shoulder cape. 42

110

112

113

NAHUA. 110-112: Free-standing traditional design motif utilizing cross bands. Old-style woman's shoulder cape. 113: Conventionalized S-motif with serrated edge . Woman's shoulder cape. 43

114

115

NAHUA. 114, 115: Free-standing motifs utilizing cross-band desi gns in diamond arrangements. Old-style woman's shoulder cape. 44

U6

U7

liS

NAHUA. 116: Free-standing design with diamond motif. Old-style woman's shoulder cape. 117: Bilateral arrangements of diamonds, chevrons and S-units, paired and countered. Old-style skirt band. 118: Zigzag line enclosing chevrons with hooks along edge. Old-style skirt band . 45

..,. 0\

119

N AHUA. 119: Large free-standing bird with elaborate plumage, holding a flower in its beak. Old-style woman's shoulder cape.

120 121

122

123

NAHUA. 120, 121: Free-standing animal motifs, the lion heavily decorated with a floral motif. Old-style skirt band. 122: Geometric border of serrated zigzags, triangles and narrow cross stripes. Old-style woman's shoulder cape. 123: Vine motif composed of stepped squares and highly stylized floral elements. Woman's shoulder cape. 47

124

125

NAHUA. 124: Flower and plant motif, emerging from a vase. Woman's shoulder cape. 125: Border pattern of octagonal frames containing a large turkey, a smaller bird and various geometric and floral motifs. Skirt band. 48

127 128

N AHUA. 126: Larg e 8-pointed star with paired and countered 5, Z and cross forms within each quadrant. Old-style woman's shoulder cape . 127: Free-standing highly stylized floral pattern. Old-style woman 's shoulder cape. 128: Corner motif exhibiting highly stylized flower-and-Ieai pattern. Old-style woman's shoulder cape. 49

: ~ 1.-;

: / C

129

....

NAHUA. 129: Free-standing comer motif with stylized floral pattern. Old-style woman's shoulder cape. 130: Diagonal comer pattern of 8-pointed star having paired and coun­tered Sand Z-forms within sections; stylized floral motifs and geometric bands accentu­ate the diagonal arrangement. Woman's shoulder cape. 50

186950

132

131

133 134

N AHUA. 131: Elaboratel y compos ed corner motif of floral pattern, bilaterally arranged. Old-style woman's shoulder cap e. 132: Border pattern showing stylized vine and flower motif; a bove, a stylized Tree-of-Life motif. Skirt. 133: Lower border exhibits se ries of slanting S and Z-units; above , a Tree-of-Life motif. Skirt. 134: Corner motif exhibiting bilateral arrangement of stylized floral pattern. Old-style woman's shoulder cape. 51

135

NAHUA. 135: Free-standing bilateral floral pattern with two borders, the upper showing countered step motifs, the lower composed of small cross elements arranged to form larger crosses in a repeating pattern. Old-style woman's shoulder cape . 52

----..

~~ _. ­

136 137 138

NAHUA. 136-138 : Variants of repeating geometric patterns incorporating 5, Z and X-motifs. Old-style headband. 53

139

140

NAHUA. 139: Design showing deer, bird , human figure and floral elements. Woman's 54 blouse. 140: Z igzag pattern with hooks and triangles. Bag.

141

142 143

NAHUA. 141: Geometric vine motif with spirals and stylized flowers . Sash . 142: Diamond-and-hook motif. Sash. 143: Row of diamond-and-hook motifs. Woman's shoulder cape. 55

144

145

NAHUA. 144: Zigzag pattern with stepped-fret motif. Old-style headband. 145: Pair of stylized vine motifs containing spiral elements. Woman's shoulder cape. 56

146

N AHUA. 146: Highly conventiona lized floral a nd plant motif with humm ingbird a t top left. Old-style long shawl. 57

147

148

NAHUA. 147: Conventionalized plant, flower and fruit elements, growing from vase. Old-style long shawl. 148: Border design of vine with floral motifs interspersed with hummingbirds. Old-style long shawl. 58

149

150

N AHUA. 149: Animal figure (dogi) with head turned backwards. Old -style sash. 150: Pair of human figures. Old-style sash. 59

-----• • •• • •

-t.-+-·-+·-+­- - .- . .-+·-f·-:+.-+­

151

152

153

154

ZAPOTEC. 151-154: Human figure with elaborate stylized headdress, and a variety of geometric figures: Sash. 60

155

156

ZAPOTEC. 155: Row of dolls, geometric figures and a prancing animal with a monkey balancing on its tail. Woman's tunic. 156: Cross bands containing 8-pointed stars with X-units centered in them; they alternate with pairs of birds . Rare old woman's tunic. 61

157

158

159

ZAPOTEC. 157: Geometric motif of diamonds with serrated borders. Old woman's tunic. 158: Stylized plant form (corn?). Old woman's tunic. 159: Zigzag motif with serrated borders. Old-style head covering. 62

161

160

162

163

165164

Z APOTEC. 160-1 65: Various animals (horses, dogs, goat, mule). Woman's tunic and head covering. 63

168

166

167

170

169

.. 173

172

174

ZAPOTEC. 166-174: Geometric motifs, and eagles, one of which is double-headed. Woman's tunic .

171

64

175

176

ZAPOTEC. 175: Eagle flanked by geometric units. Old woman 's tunic. 176: Double­headed eagle flanked by sta rs. Woman's tunic. 65

-- -- ---

177

- -­------ ...--... - -..... --­,-.. .. 178 179 180

MIXTECO. 177-180: Simple geometric shapes within cross bands; motifs are reminis­66 cent of stone mosaics at Mitla ruins. Woman's tunic.

181

~--

~ 555 :: ~

182 183 184

185

MlXTECO. 181-185 : Elaborations of repeated geometric desi gns incorporating stepped ­fret a nd diamond motifs. Mitl a-like designs. Woman's tunic. 67

187186

•••• •

•••

•••••

•••• ••

••• ••

188

190189

MlXTECO. 186-190: Variety of stylized flora l motifs. Woman's tunic. 68

•

•

•• •• •

- II i ii 1I - -II • .11. . • • •

• 1I :• II II: II II I • II• :•: • :• •I • • I • • II•• • ~ • • • ~ •: • : I

I • • • : •• • • •• • • .'1 • • • •• • • I· ••11. •• •• • • • II­ ••• • • II III• • • •• II. ._ • • • 1 ••• • • • • • • II II• • • • II , •

1I 1I • •• • I• • .-... • • •... .. • • -:• • • • •• II l1li • • ••11 • • •• • • • • • II • •• •:. . •I • • •••• .1I •

II • •• •• • • • •• • .11• •.~ : • •• • • • • II l1li • ,. • • •III •

"".­I • II • • I • · ..• ••J .. • • • •• ..I ...... •• • ••••~ .... 1I • .1I••••• ••••• • • • •• • ••• •••• •• • ••••••• • • ••

••• • •• ..• II II• •• .1 • ••: •• •• •• •• •• • • •• •••• •• ••.. ~ • ~ ..,.~ .. ~ .. r/' .. Jr J ~ "jj ~ ~~~ J .. .. "­ ..:­•• •• •••• • •••• l1li •••• .... ~ :-. • -­ •• J ~ •• "jj ..

• ••• • •••• ••••• • • • •••• • ••• 191

MlXTECO . 191: Large pattern consist ing of zigzag lines, stylized floral motifs and geometric units. Woman's tunic. 69

192

193

194

MlXTECO. 192: Row of 8-pointed stars. 193: Row of highly stylized birds in flight. 194: Row of diamonds with serrated edges. All from head coverings. 70

195

196

71MlXTECO. 195, 196: Variants of multiheaded birds. Woman's tunic .

198

199

MIXTE CO. 197-199: Prancing animals with long tails . Woman's tunic. 72

200 201

202

203

204 205

MrXTECO. 200-202 : Various animals (rodent, iguana?) standing or prancing. 203: Plant with birds . 204, 205: Male and female figures. All from woman's tunic . 73

186950

•

206

M AZATEC. 206: Narrow cross bands containing repeated diamond shapes separating wider bands; one exhibits alternating bird and leaf motifs, the other shows graceful geometric motifs. Old-style woman's shoulder cape. 74

208

MAZATEC. 207: Floral and leaf pattern. Woman's tunic. 208: Plant growing from the ground, artfully concealing a crested bird. Woman's tunic. 75

209

210

211

MAZATEC. 209: Repeating pattern of five interlocking, serrated spirals, the fourth contrasting in color with the others; example of "blond serpent" motif. Wraparound skirt. 210, 211: Variants of diagonal bands with hook or spiral motifs. Woman's tunic. 76

212 213

C UICATEC. 212: Wide cross bands conta ining repeating diamond-within-diamond pattern with hook motifs at edges. Mortu ary sheet. 213: Geometric pattern of vine and spirals. Woman 's tunic. 77

214

215

CUICATEC. 214: Wide zigzag line with serrated edges, symbolizing feathered serpent. Woman's tunic. 215: Pattern of parallelograms set diagonally to form zigzag arrange­ment; inside are placed hook motifs; chevrons and serrated lines fill triangular areas. Woman's tunic. 78

216

217

CHINANTEC. 216: Pattern of diamond-within-diamond, hook and spira l units , and stepped diagonals. Woman's tunic. 217: Pairs of zigzag lines from which emerge angu ­lar spiral motifs. Woman's tunic. 79

218

219 220 221

222

80

CHINANTEC. 218: Bilateral stepped-fret 221: Example of Flower of Powder motif . woman's tunic.

motif. 219, 220: Variants of 222: Example of serp ent motif.

S-motif. All from

223

224

MlXE. 243: Rows of stylized dogs and flowers. Woman's tunic. 224: Rows of stylized animals (faxes?) and butterflies. Woman's tunic. 81

225

226

MlXE. 225: Anthropomorphic figures exhibiting animal characteristics (beak? crest?). Woman's tunic. 226: Combination of flower-like motifs set over countered and paired abstract designs (bats? butterfliesi). Woman's tunic. 82

---------

227

228

M lXE. 227: Bird-like anthropomorphic figures with countered and pa ired triangles. Woman's tunic. 228: Large pattern of serrated diamond-within-diamond mot if surrounding bird-like anthropomorphic figures and a double -H motif. Woman 's tunic. 83

.1

229

MrXE. 229: Irregular arrangement of serrated diamond-within-diamond motif. Woman's tunic. 84

• • •

• • • • • • •• •• • • •

• • •

• • ••

• • • • ••• •• • • •

• • •• •• •• •• • • •

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~;.;.. .~. ..

.s.• •..••.~!!' .~;.;...~.••• •• •• .;1.•.• •..~,

~~.• s ••

230

..~. ~.. ..~. .s.• •..• •.~!!' .~. . .~.

• ~. •• i~1 .•.• •..~,

~~.• s ••

231

•

232

..~. ~;.;.. .• .~.•• .,. .. .. .~..~;.;...~.• ~. •• i~. .• • •••.~,• .• .. ~~• s ••

CHATINO. 230: Conventionalized vine motif. Yoke for woman's blouse. 231, 232: Free­standing geometric shapes. Square cloth used for covering food, or for ceremonial purposes. 85

233

234

CHONTAL. 233: Large diamond-within-diamond and hook-motif pattern. Ceremonial cloth. 234: Cross band depicting zigzag, chevron and hook motifs. Ceremonial cloth. 86

235

236

237

238

CHONTAL. 235-238 : Various patterned cross bands showing geometric and stylized floral motifs. Ceremonial altar cloth. 87

239

CHONTAL. 239: Alternating bird and flower motifs. Woman's blouse. 88

240

241

242

TZOTZIL. 240-242: Various cross bands containing diamonds, angul ar spirals, zigzag lines and hook motifs. Woman's tunic. 89

243

244

TZOTZIL. 243: Central diamond giving rise to paired spirals emerging from each corner. Shawl. 244: Border of zigzag lines and angular spirals with serrated edges. Shawl. 90

245

246

247

TZOTZIL. 245-247: Three examples of "monkey" motif. Old woman's tunic. 91

250

248 249

251

252

TZOTZIL. 248, 250: Small X-motifs with hooks curved inwards. Shawl. 249: Small design of diamond motifs forming a cross . Shawl. 251, 252: Variants of stylized monkey motif. Woman 's should er cape. 92

Irmgard Weitlaner-Johnson

MEXICAN INDIAN FOLK DESIGNS 252 Motifs from Textiles

This fascin ating b ook is the product of int ensive scholarly research, its exacting illustr ati ons based on ch oice examples ofM exican Indian textiles in many d iff er ent museums and private coll ections. In corporating abstract and geome tric forms as well as highly sty lized im ages of flowers, plants, anima ls, birds and humans, the patterns represent more than tw enty major Mexic an Indian cultures.

Among the d esigns are a two-headed feather ed serpent from the Hui chol culture, an allover pattern dominated by horizontal zigzags wo ven by the Otorni, and a flower and leaf design from th e Tepehua . The Huasteco people ar e represented by a bold motif featuring prancing animals with bushy tails; a Nahuatl design depicts a lion with a flower in his mouth; while an elegant curvilin ear Mazatec m otif features flower s, vin es and birds. Other peoples whose art is represented include the Tarahumara, Tepecano, Mestizo, Zapotec,. Mixt eco and Cuicatec. In th e bold , startling designs origina ted b y these cultures are primal links to the imagery of othe r cultures and traditions, centuries old and worldwide.

Artists, designers and cr aftspeople will value this modestly priced collection as a source of striking and unusual co pyright-free designs for inspiration and practical use; anyone int er est ed in Mexican Indian culture will find it an important refer ence as well.

O rigina l Dover (1993) selection of motifs from the 2-volume De sign M otifs on Mexican Indian Textiles, published b y Akademische Druck- u , VerlagsanstaIt, Graz, Austria, 1976. Over 200 bl ack -and-white illustrations. Captions. 80pp .8~8 xII. Paperbound. o o

-c

ALSO AVAILABLE ~ 0­

OQ 'MAYA DESIGNS, Wilson G. Turner. 48pp. 8)~ x 11. 24047-9 Pa. $3.95 ~

DESIGNS FROM PRE-COLUMBIAN MEXICO, Jorge Enciso. 105pp. 6J8 x 9)t 22794-4 " Pa. $5.95

DESIGN MOTIFSOF ANCIENT MEXICO, Jorge Enciso . 153pp. 6J8x 9Jt 20084-1 Pa. $5.95 AMERICAN INDIAN DESIGN AND DECORATION, Leroy Appleton. 279pp. 8~8 xII. 22704-9

Pa. $9.95 PREHISTORIC HOPI POTTERY DESIGNS, Jesse F ewkes. 288pp . 6 x 9. 22959-9 Pa. $8.95

Free D over Pictorial Archive Catalog available upon request.

.;, ~.A DOVER EDITION DESIGNED FOR YEARS OF USE! . I f I

We have m ade ev ery eff or t to make this the b est book possibl e. Our paper is opa q ue , with minimal show-through; it will not discolor or become brittle with age. Pages are b ound in signatures, in the method traditionally used for the best books, and will not drop out. Books open flat for easy refer ence. The binding will not crack __I or spl it. This is a permanent book.

ISBN 0-486-27524-~

9000(

I . $6.95 IN USA