MICHAELCHIARELLO’S

LIVEFIRE

125RECIPESFORCOOKINGOUTDOORS

WITHANNKRUEGERSPIVACKANDCLAUDIASANSONE

PHOTOGRAPHSBYFRANKIEFRANKENY

DEDICATIONTomy“Pops”FortunatoChiarello,whose loveofmeatand firewas trumpedonlybyhis love formymotherAntoinette andhis threeboys.Thankyou foryourconstantsupportandencouragement.Iamforeverinyourdebt.Youwillbedeeplymissed.And tomywife and best friend Eileen. The biggest fire cannot equal the

warmthandlightyoubringtomylifeeveryday.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTSIhave,byallaccounts,thebestbookteamofalltime.Manythankstomydearfriend Claudia Sansone for helping me organize, test, and shoot with thegreatestofease.Thankstomywriter,AnnSpivack.Myfavoritepartofwritingabookissharingthestorieswithyouandseeingthemcometolifeonthepage.Frankie “Frankeninny” Frankeny . . . damn girl, you’re good. Each and everyimagecanalmostbeeatenrightoff thepage.Myheartfelt thanks toMichael“Laukey” Laukert. Twenty years later and I am blessed to have your help inbringing yet another far-flung idea to life. It only works because of you,myfriend. Thanks to our hero and design guruMichaelMabry and the amazingLilyana Bone. Seven books later and you still blow my mind with the bestgraphicdesignintheindustry.AlsothankstoFrankie’sassistantsandstylists,NissaQuanstromandGreg

O’Connell,whonot only help us get the shot every timebut do itwith style,grace,andhumor.ToBillLeBlondandSarahBillingsleyofChronicleBooks,thanksformaking

me part of the Chronicle family and for backing me when I wanted to gobeyondtheordinaryBBQbook.Thankstoallmyson’sfriends(andtheirparents)whocametoourhomefor

the sleepover breakfast. Thank youMax and hismomKaren, Bryce and hismomMolly,TrevorandhismomBriana,AidanandhismomEileen,LillyandAudreyand theirmomTina,VivianeandAudreyand theirmomAnne-Marie,and Harper and hermom Amanda. That photo shoot will live forever inmymemorythankstoyourbeautifulfacesandyouramazingenergy.ThankstoeveryonewhobroughttolifeourHarvestDinner,especiallyChef

RyanMcIlwraithandJudyandDenisGordon,whohelpedwitheverythingfromfolding napkins to hanging balloons. Thank you tomy guests at theHarvestDinner, for making this annual event such a high point and for graciouslyallowingthebookteamtodocumentthisyear’sdinner.Thanks to Oscar Renteria for allowing us to photograph at the beautiful

PopeValleyBeach.ThankyoutoRobHohmann,MichaelGlissman,MargaretDeMonte,JoelHoachuck,andKellyMagna,whoarealwaysreadytostepintomakeaneventoradinnerevenbetter.Thanks to the staff at ourYountvilleNapaStyle store for their help,with a

specialthankstoJenniferFlynnandMichaelBozziniforbeingourproductionassistants during the photo shoot. Thanks to everyone at V Marketplace.Thanks to Rob Hampton and J. J. Sansone for going above and beyond inlendingahandwhereveritwasneeded.Thankstoallourtesterswhocheerfullydonatedtheirtimeandtheirinsight:

Maria Bautista, Leigh Corshen, Leslie Crail, Paul Franson, Ken Morris, JulieRiordan,TinaSchultheiss,BettyTeller,andChrisTowns.AveryspecialthankstoAnnPepi,WendyRupprecht,andRachaelTenerowicz.AverylovingthankyoutomywifeEileen,forsoverygraciouslyallowingthe

bookteamtotakeoverourhome,andthenmakingpizzaforeveryone.Thanksto Roux, Felicia, Giana, and Aidan for givingme theworld’s best reasons tocookoverfire.And finally, many thanks to all of you who believe, as I do, that cooking

beside the people who love you will change your life. (It sure has changedmine.)Iamgratefulbeyondwordsforyourongoingsupport.

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

STAYSAFE

GRILLINGEQUIPMENTANDTOOLS

STOCKINGANOUTDOORPANTRYANDANINDOORPANTRY

CHAPTERONEBUILDINGTHEFIRETheFireandtheCrossUsingAnIronCrossWholeLambonanIronCrosswithMintPestoandChile-FennelTzatzikiRosemaryParmesanFlatbreadwithBurrataandTornFigsStrawberryPazzoCakewithHerbedCrèmeFraîche

HARVESTDINNERRosemaryParmesanFlatbreadwithBurrataandTornFigsOystersontheHalfShellwithGrilledProsciuttoandMignonetteGrilledVegetableAntipastiSott’OlioHeirloomTomatoeswithWhippedBurrata,BasilOil,SmokedSeaSalt,andBalsamicReductionBabaGhanoushwithToastedPineNutTahiniandSoccaGrilledPastawithGrilledMeatballsWholeLambonanIronCrosswithMintPestoandChile-FennelTzatzikiPotatoPolpette,TwoWaysBrusselsSproutswithLemonsinaRotisserieCageStrawberryPazzoCakewithHerbedCrèmeFraîche

CHAPTERTWOFIRECONTAINED:THEGRILLGrilledAvocado-MangoGuacamoleLemonLeaf–WrappedGoatCheesewithBalsamicReductionandGrilledOliveBreadGrilledVegetableAntipastiSott’OlioOystersontheHalfShellwithGrilledProsciuttoandMignonetteGrilledCrabswithFreshHerbsFideauwithVermicelli,GrilledShrimp,Chicken,andCalamariLemon-GarlicChickenwithTapenade,CookedUnderaBrickGrilledPastawithGrilledMeatballsGrilledLemon-SaffronPoundCakewithLavenderandFreshBerries

BIGBURGERBASHThree-PoundBeefBurgerforSixonCountryBread

GrilledBingCherry–WhiteBalsamicSauceBlueCheese–StuffedBeefBurgerswithZin-OnionMarmaladeMontereyJack–StuffedTurkeyBurgerswithGrilledAvocado-MangoGuacamoleLambBurgerswithEmber-RoastedOnionPuréeandGrilledPeach-NectarineMostardaSmokyPaprikaBBQPotatoChipsSmokedOliveOil–ManchegoPotatoChipsRoastedPotatoSaladwithRoastedGarlicDressingSimpleLime-CilantroSlawTheCondimentBar:PicklesallaPresto,BocceCourtMustard,SmokedHomemadeTomatoKetchup,GriddledOnions

RoastedStrawberryLemonadewithHerbSyrups

CHAPTERTHREEROMANCINGTHEFIRE:THEHEARTHShrimpWrappedinProsciuttoClamsinaCataplanawithChicken-AppleSausagesandCrispySageSkeweredQuailwithGrapeSaladandCitrus-RosemarySaltLegofLambonaStringSalt-BakedPotatoeswithMascarponeandProsciuttoBitsRoastedStrawberrieswithPannaCotta

PIZZASONTHEGRILLPizzaDoughPiadine,FourWaysGreekPiadinewithKalamataTapenade,GrilledPeppers,andFetaCaesarPiadine—Romaine,Anchovies,Garlic,andParmesanHeartlandPiadine—RedPeppers,Chicken,andSpinachGeorgiaPiadine—Shallots,Peaches,andBlueCheese

PizzawithShallots,WildMushrooms,SmokedOliveOil,andFontinaPizzawithAsparagusPesto,Cambozola,andInsalatinaRoastedGarlicPizzawithGrilledTomatoVinaigretteandArugulaDarkChocolate—CherryCalzones

CHAPTERFOURIRONANDFIRE:THEPLANCHAGrilledAhiTunawithCarrotCaponataand“Broken”CarrotVinaigretteCauliflower“Steaks”withParsleyButterSauceGrilledBeefChiliPolentaBreadandBalsamicHoneyButterGrilledCeviche-MarinatedCalamariandShrimpwithCanchaPopcornGrilledMushroomswithSausages,Onions,andPeppersPotatoPolpette,TwoWaysRoastedLemonGranita

DINNERATTHELAKENonna’sRoastedGarlicBreadFresh-CaughtTroutCookedinFoilFoil-WrappedEmber-RoastedBeetswithGoatCheeseRosemary-LemonBars

MeyerLemonVerbenaWater

CHAPTERFIVELIVEFIRE:THEFIREPITGrilledItalianPeppersStuffedwithSausageSkeweredMortadellaandProvoloneGrilledPeach-NectarineMostarda3-LiterOOCanMusselsandGypsyPeppersCostolettadiBovaro(ItalianCowboySteaks)withSalsaVerdeGrilledChickenStewandDumplingsS’moreswithEspressoMarshmallows

CHAPTERSIXFIREINABOX:THEHOTBOXTrifectaofRibs:Beef,Pork,andLambChickensforTwentyPigPickin’PorkShoulderCookedLechón-StyleHeirloomTomatoeswithWhippedBurrata,BasilOil,SmokedSeaSalt,andBalsamicReductionCornontheCobRoastedintheHuskwithRedPepperButterApricotHandPies

CHAPTERSEVENASPINWITHFIRE:THEROTISSERIEBabyGoatonaSpitjackTurkeysonaSpitjackTunaLoinTiedPrimeRib–StylewithSalsaVerdeBrusselsSproutswithLemonsinaRotisserieCageTortaStrizzarewithMaple-PecanGraySaltIceCream

BACKYARDCAMP-OUTBREAKFASTPainPerdu(FrenchToast)SausagesCookedonLongForksBrown-BaggedEggsandBaconMelon,TwoWays:MelonPlatter(forkids)andMelonSaladwithRicottaSalataandTornMint(forgrown-ups)

MaltedHotChocolatewithFire-ToastedMarshmallows

CHAPTEREIGHTTHELASTOFTHEFIRE:COALSANDEMBERSEmber-RoastedOnionPuréePuréefromGrilledOnionsPuréedOnionVinaigretteEmber-RoastedGarlicEmber-RoastedEggplantPuréeBabaGhanoushwithToastedPineNutTahiniandSoccaBruschettawithCoal-RoastedGarlicandGrilledTomatoesSmashingPumpkinswithMintPestoandGoatCheese

CHAPTERNINEFIREANDICE:COLDDRINKSGrilledZinfandelSangria

BloodyMatadorRoastedApricotPuréeRoastedApricotBelliniDanDuckhorn’sFirst-NightCocktailRedBeerSmokedTequilaMargaritaHighwayman’sMojitoMeyerLemonVerbenaWaterRoastedStrawberryLemonadewithHerbSyrups

CHAPTERTENOIL,SALT,ANDSPICE:SEASONINGS,SAUCES,ANDDRESSINGSFennelSpiceRubToastedSpiceRubCocoaSpiceRubChef’s-StyleBalsamicReductionInvertedSugarSmokedOliveOilSmokedOilDressingSmokedSeaSaltCitrus-RosemarySaltRoastedGarlicPasteRoastedGarlicDressingRedWineVinaigretteHoney–AppleCiderVinegarDressingGrilledRedOnionDressingPassataGrilledTomatoBloodyMaryBlendTomatoVinegarGrilledTomatoSauceGrilledTomatoJuiceBasilOilBeefStockChickenBrothCrèmeFraîche

RESOURCES

INDEX

TABLEOFEQUIVALENTS

INTRODUCTION

ATTHEENDOFTHEDAY,WHENTHEFOODHASALLBEENSERVEDANDSAVORED,WHAT’SLEFTISYOURCONNECTIONTOTHEPEOPLEAROUNDYOURFIRE.

A fire adds flavor to your foodbut it’smore than just amethodofcooking. A live fire transforms themeal into a gathering, whetheryou’recookingfortwopeopleortwohundred. Italiansknowthisata cellular level. Ask any Italian, any time of day, if hewould rathercookandeatoutdoorsor inside,andyou’llgeta “whaddyakiddingme?”kindof look.Outdoors!When Ihaveagreat firegoingandagorgeous cut ofmeat perfectly seasoned and ready to go on thatfire, I am a happy man. I can’t even explain this; I just know thatcookingoveralivefiresatisfiessomedeep,primalurge.

DRAMATICFIRESANDEVERYDAYFIRESI’llsharea fewrestaurant techniquesbut thisbook is reallyabouthow Icookover a fire at home. My goal is to make cooking over a fire feel lessintimidating, and I’vewritten the recipessocooksatevery skill level canusethem.You’ll seehow Iusea fire tomarkbigoccasionsbutalsohowfirecanelevateamidweekfamilydinnerortransformleftovers intoagreatmeal(likePotatoPolpette,TwoWays,page114). I’ll showyouhowdramatica firecanbe: Flip through the first chapter and you’ll see photographs of my 2011Harvest Dinner where we cooked two whole lambs on iron crosses—metalframesthatholdthelamboverthefire.That’soneextreme.ToseehowIusefire for everyday cooking, flip to page 93 and you’ll find a pizza party that

couldn’t beeasier. Theprepwork is simple, you cook thepizzason thegrill,andstayrelaxedenoughtovisitwithyourguests.

THEMAINPOINTOFCOOKINGWITHLIVEFIREInthisbook,I’llteachyouhowtocookoverabigfire,butalsoshowyouhowtomake fire thecenterof smaller,more intimategatherings.Yes, the folksat aHarvest Dinner will remember the drama of a whole lamb. But don’tunderestimate thepowerof flame to lightupa simpleTuesdaynightdinner.(SeeTheUrbanGrill,page46,whichshareswhereIhadoneofthebestgrilledcheesesandwichesI’vetasted.)TheHarvestDinner,pizzaparty,androoftopgrilledcheesearereallyabout

thesamething:usingfiretocreateacommunity.We humans have an affinity for fire; we’re drawn to it. There’s a natural

rhythm to a fire that people respond to.When you cookover fire, your foodtastes better and your gatherings havemorewarmth.My favorite part of aneveningmightbewhentheembersaredyingandit’s timetoheadhomebuteverybodystaysseatedaroundthefire,quietandcontentinthehalf-lightandunwillingtoleavethecirclejustyet—that’sthemomentyouaimforwhenyoustartbybuildingafire.

WHATDOIMEANBYLIVEFIRE?Idon’tmeanbarbecuing.Whilesomeofthefoodsinthisbookarecookedonabackyardgrill,youwon’tfindtypicalbarbecuerecipeshere.Thisbookisaboutlivefire,whichmeansusingdifferenttypesoffuel—wood,charcoal,gas—withavarietyofoutdoorcookingtechniquesandequipment.You’llseehowtouseahotbox tocookawholesucklingpigoradozenchickensatone time.You’lllearnhowtocookawholebabygoatonarevolvingspitoverafire.You’llalsoseehow touse flame toadd flavor tosimple foodsyouusuallycook indoorssuchaschickenanddumplingsor leftovermashedpotatoesorevenagrilledcheesesandwich.MyfriendBobbyFlayandIwerediscussinggrillingandIcaughtsomeheat

foracommentthatImade:Isaidthatgrillingisnotcooking.(Wait,wait—hearmeout.)WhenIheartheword“grilling,”IthinkofaguysittingnexttoaWeberinalawnchair,drinkingabeer,andholdingaspatula—andit’sgoingtotakealottopryhimoutofthatlawnchair.Thatguyinthelawnchairisnottheaudienceforthisbook.Imaycookover

agrillbut Iamnotgrilling, Iamcooking. I’mmakingsure thebeef (or fishor

chicken or vegetable) is seasoned perfectly, I’m thinking about the meal aswhole,I’mthinkingaboutmyguestsandcomingupwithnewwaysofusingfiretogetbetterflavor.ImayberelaxedbutIamnotdozinginmylawnchair;I’mkeepingaclosewatchsothemealcomesoffthefireatitspeak.

CHOOSEWHATTOCOOKBASEDONYOUREQUIPMENTYouchoosewhattocookbasedonwhereyou’llcook:Youcookdifferentfoodsoveracampfireorwitha rotisserie thanyouwouldatyourgrill.Thisbook isorganized around that idea. Each chapter shows you what I cook over aspecifictypeofequipment:thehearth,agasgrill,arotisserie,aplancha,afirepit.Youcanabsolutelycookarecipefromthefirepitchapteratthehearth;youjusthavetomodifyitalittletoworkforyourheatsource.

STAYSAFEThismaybethemost importantpage in thisbook. Ihopeyouread itmorethanonce.Don’tgetburned—followtheseguidelinesforkeepingyourself and your family safe while cooking with fire. Look for thisbannerthroughoutthebookforothersafetytips.

•Don’tbuildafireundertreelimbs,patios,awnings,ortheeavesofabuilding.Don’tbuildafirecloserthan30feettoanyotherstructure,andneverbuildafireindoorsexceptinafireplaceorawood-burningoven.(Thegarage?Forgetaboutit!)

•Useextracautionwhenchildrenarenearby.AtourhousewehaveonedesignatedfirepersonandonedesignatedkidpersonsoifI’mmindingthefireIknowmywife,Eileen,hasaneyeonthekids.

•Beforeyoustartthefire,haveasafe,clearedspacesetasidewhereyoucanplacehotpiecesofequipmentlikethegrillrackortherotisseriebarandknowkidscan’ttouchthem.Makesurethegroundisflatandclearofallbrushwhereyouplantobuildafireorplaceagrill,andcheckthatyourgrillissturdyandwell-balanced.Alivefireonaslantisabadideaallthewayaround.

•Usetherightsizegrillforwhatyou’recooking.Makesureyourgrillandwhat’sonitarecompletelystable.Don’tever

restahugepot(likethatusedforthechickenanddumplingsshownonpage140)onasmallgrillorakettlegrill.

•Don’tsprayanythingflammableontoflames.Thisincludeslighterfluidandevenaspraycanofoliveoilornonstickcookingspray.Youcanspraythemeatoranyfooddirectlywhenit’snotnearthefireorspraythegrillbasketsorgrillrackbeforeyoustartgrilling,butdon’tsprayanything(exceptwaterinaspraybottle)directlyontoflames.Becausefirecantravelupastreamofflammableliquid,youputyourselfatgreatriskbysprayinganythingexceptwaterontoalivefire.Whenit’stimetooilthegrillrack,pouralittleoliveoilontoapapertowelandholditwithapairoflongtongs.

•Choosetherighttoolswhenworkingwithfire.Makesureallyourchef’stools—tongs,spatulas,roastingforks—areextra-longwithgripsmadeofwoodorothermaterialthatdoesn’tmeltorconductheat.Choosehigh-qualityheat-proofgloveswithlongcuffs.Don’tskimpwhenbuyingitemsthatkeepyourhandssafefromflameandheat.

•Whenyouareslidingmeatorgameontoarotisserieorspitbar,keepbothhandsoneithersideofthefood.Don’tputyourhandinapositionwhereitcanbehurtbythepointedendofthebariftheroastgiveswaysuddenly.

•Witharotisserie,spitroast,orcoalpanforthehotbox,keepinmindthatallthesewillbeexceptionallyhotwhentheycomeoffthefire.Thebuddysystemworkshere;haveafriendhelpyoulifthot,heavyitemsoffthefiresafely.Knowwhereyouwillrestitbeforeyouliftsomethinghot.Alwayshavetwopairsofgoodsturdyfireproofglovesbeforeyou

startthefire.

•Haveasourceofwaterready;ahoseconnectedtoaspigotisbest.

•Ifyouhaveafireextinguisher,bringitoutsideandkeepitnearbybutdon’tletthekidstouchit.Makesureyourextinguisherhasbeeninspectedinthepastsixmonths.(Ifitdoesn’thaveatagshowingdateofinspection,takeitintobecheckedbeforeyoustartthefire.)Ifyouhaveanyquestionsaboutyourfireextinguisherorjustfiresafetyissuesingeneral,talktothefolksatyourlocalfiredepartment;iftheycan’tansweryourquestion,they’llpointyouintherightdirection.

GRILLINGEQUIPMENTANDTOOLS

Youcanbuildagrill outof tendollars’worthofbricks, andcookameal that tastes just as goodor better than food cookedon a six-thousand-dollargrill that’sbigger thanyourcar. (Forproof,see thephotosonpages180and219.) Wheregrilling isconcerned, thewinner isn’t the person with the biggest, most expensive grill; thewinneristhepersonwhousessmokeandflametobestadvantage.Throughoutthisbook,I’llshowyouhowIaimforflavoronagrill,inafirepit,witharotisserie(oraspitjack),inmyhearth,inahotbox,onaplancha,andusingthecoalsleftoverfromafire. Pleasedon’ttryto tackle all these methods at once. Choose just one piece ofequipment—maybe it’s yourgrill ormaybeyouwant to trycookingonaplancha.Cookoniteveryweek,everydayifyoucan,untilyouknow that piece of equipment and feel confident using it. Thendecidewhichtypeofgrillingequipmentyou’dliketomasternext.

TOOLSYou’llneedtheseeverytimeyoucookoverfire.

CHARCOALSTARTERCHIMNEYA simple, inexpensive metal cylinder with small openings at its base, thechimneyisamuchbetterwayofstartingcharcoalthandousingitwith lighterfluid.Ihavetwoofthese,soIcanigniteagoodamountofcharcoalatonetime.(SeeIgnitingCharcoal,page42,fordirectionsonhowtouseacharcoalstarterchimney.)

CUTTINGBOARDSBigcutsofmeatcallforoversizecuttingboards.Keepyourfingerssafebynotcarvingorchoppingalegoflamborwholepigonatoo-smallboard.Careforyourcuttingboardsbywiping themevery3 to6monthswithanoilspeciallymade for cutting blocks. See Resources, page 218, for sources for cuttingboardsandcuttingblockoil.

FIREEXTINGUISHERORAWATERSOURCENEXTTOTHEGRILLA fire extinguisher is always a good idea.Make sure yours has been testedwithinsixmonthsandkeepitwherethekidscan’tgettoit.Ifyoudon’thaveanextinguisher, set up a hose attached to a spigot, and test it tomake sure itreachesthegrillbeforeyoustartafire. Ifyoudon’thaveawatersource, fillafive-gallon bucket with water and place it next to the grill. Chances are youwon’t need it, butbetter tobeprepared. It’s alsowise to keepa spraybottlefilledwithwaterbesidethegrilltohandlesmallflare-ups.

FIREPROOFGLOVESChoosewell-madegloveswithlongcuffsorgauntletstoprotectyourforearms.Makesuretheglovesyoubuyarewell-madeandwell-paddedbutstillflexible;theglovesthatprotectyourhandsfromflamearenotwhereyouwanttosaveafewpennies.Alwayshavetwopairs readysowhenyouneeda friendtohelpyou,theirhandsarecoveredtoo.I takegoodcareofmygrillinggloves, storing them inadrawerso I know

wheretheyarewhenIneedthem.

GRILLBASKETSWhen grilling delicate fillets of fish, young asparagus, or even a dozenmeatballs,agrillbasketcanmakeiteasiertoflipyourfood.Agrillbasketisalsothebestwaytogrillpasta(seepage61).Lookforbasketswithsturdyhingesandhandlesandevenlywovenmeshwhenbuying.

GRILLBRUSHAcleangrillrackmeansbettergrillmarksandlesschanceforfoodtostick.Thebestwaytocleantherackiswithasturdygrillbrush(seepage42fortipsoncleaning the rack). If you don’t have a grill brush, a wadded-up piece ofaluminumfoilworksinapinch,althougharealbrushdoesabetterjob.

LARGE,HEAT-PROOFPLATTERSBeforeyouputfoodonthegrill,haveplattersreadyforit.To keep harmful bacteria away from your cooked food,never use the same plates and platters that held rawmeat, fish, orpoultry for the final cookedproduct. I use

baking sheets tohold foodbeforegrillingand thenuseplatters after

grilling so there’s never any mistake about where the raw food hasbeen.

LONG-HANDLEDTONGS,FORKS,ANDSPATULASI invest in sturdy tools with long handles and comfortable heat-proof grips.Whenyou’recookingwithfire,flimsytoolsarenotanoption.

MATCHESDon’tfoolaroundwithsouvenirmatchbookswhenyou’rereadytocook.Buyaboxofseriousmatchesthatarelongenoughtolightthefirewithoutsingeingyourfingers.

METALASHBUCKETHave heat-proof containers ready for ash or hot tools,andmakesuretheyareoff-limitsandoutofreachofanychildren.

PIZZASTONEApizzastoneisusuallyeitherearthenwareorceramic,anditgivesthebottomofapizzacrustitscrisp,eventexture.Iwouldn’teventrytocookapizzaoverafirewithoutastone.IhavepizzastonesthathavelastedforyearsbutI’vealsocrackedafewof

them.Tokeepthemintact,handlethemgentlyandtrynottoplaceahotstoneonacoldsurfaceoracoolstoneonaveryhotgrill.Becauseapizzastone isporous,don’teverusedetergenttowashitbecauseitwillabsorbtheodorandflavor of the soap. Instead,wait for the stone to cool completely, then scrubwithadrybrushoradampcloth.

SMOKINGGUNI add smoke flavor to ketchup, cheese, cocktails, and salt usingmy smokinggun.(SeeTheSmokingGun,page201,formoreinformationabouthowtouseone.)Asmokinggunisahandheldbattery-operatedappliancethatgeneratessmokebyburningsmallwoodchips thatyouseton topof thegun’sheatingelement.Itcomeswithahosetoattachtothegun’snozzle.Thehosemakesit

easytoaimsmokewhereyouneedit.You’llwant tocreateasmokingchamberwhere the foodwillsit toabsorb

thesmoke’sflavor. Ifyouhaveaglassbell jar, this isanidealusefor it. Ifyoudon’thaveabell jar,createasmokechamberbycoveringabowlwithplasticwrap.Liftoneedgeofthewrap,insertthesmokinggun’shose,thenresealtheplasticwraparoundthehosetokeepthesmokeinsidewiththefood.

THERMOMETERSIuseaprobethermometertotestthatbigpiecesofmeataredone.Laserandinstant-readthermometerscanbehelpfultoo.

GRILLSANDGRILLEQUIPMENTIfyoudon’talreadyownagrill,don’trushoutandbuyone;youcanmakeyourown.Live-firecookingisaboutharnessingflame,notfiringupyourcreditcard.People cooked over fire thousands of years before the propane tank camealong.Havingsaidthat,herearemyrecommendationsforgrills,startingwiththe

simplest.Forsourcesforthefollowingequipment,seeResources,page218.

THEDIYGRILLYou can make your own grill using a heavy cast-iron grate and heat-proofstonesorbricks.

I’vecookedataneventwherewelinedourfirepitswithriver rocks, started the fire, and put in the pork. Whenthose river rocks started exploding, and our very well-heeled guests were dodging pork leg and river-rockshrapnel, itdidn’tmatterhowwell I’dmarinatedthepig.

Erronthesideofcautionandknowforafactthatyourrocksorbricksdon’tcontainmoisture.

THEHIBACHIORURBANBALCONYGRILLThe hibachi, a simple and inexpensive piece of equipment, lets city dwellerscookovercharcoal.SeeTheUrbanGrill,page46.Modernhibachishavesomegreatfeatures,includingtheabilitytofoldupforstorage.

THEKETTLEGRILLThe next step up is a kettle grill,most commonly called by the brand nameWeber.There’sa reasonallofushavecookedover these iconicgrillsatonetimeoranother.Theyareconvenient,affordable,anddoagreatjob.

TOP-OF-THE-LINEWOOD-BURNINGGRILLWhenyou’rereadyforabeautifullymadewood-burninggrill,mychoicewouldbe theAztecGrill.TheAztechasanair-flowsystem that letsyoucontrol theradiantheatandburnsfuelveryefficiently.Itreacheshighertemperaturesthanmostwood-burninggrills,especiallygoodwhencookingbigcutsofmeat.You’ll notice I haven’t mentioned propane-fueled grills. If you have one,

don’t worry; the recipes in this book will do your grill proud. But propanedoesn’tgiveyouthesameflavorascookingoverawoodfire.Iownapropanegrillandfindmyselfusing itwhenIhaven’tplannedahead.Foran immediatefire, you can’t beat propane, which is always there, no matter the weather(assuming that you’ve remembered to fill the propane tank). For the bestflavor,you’regoingtowanttolightthewoodorthecharcoal.

FIREPITFire pits can be simple; the original fire pitswere a hole dug in the ground.Thesedays youhave lotsof firepit options fromportable topermanent andfrom DIY (dig-it-yourself) to beautifully crafted custom-made fire pits withgratesthatcanberaisedorloweredeasilytoletyoumovethefoodclosertoorfartherfromtheheat.Themostimportantpointistosetupafirepitsoyoucancookoverit.Ifyoualreadyownafirepit,youcanbuygratesthatletyoucookoverit,althoughinsomecasestheymayhavetobecustommade.Ifyoudon’talreadyownafirepitandare interested inone,chooseamodel thathasgrillracksthatcanbemovedclosertotheflameorfartheraway.Readmoreaboutfirepitsonpage128.

EQUIPMENTFORCOOKINGATTHEHEARTHAnyhomefireplacethatuseswood(notpressedlogsorgas)forfuelissuitable

forcooking.Herearesometoolsthatcanhelpwhenyouwanttocookinyourfireplace.Beforeyoustartcooking,spreadoutafewdampdishtowelsonyourhearthstonestoprotectthemfromgreasespattersanddrops.

TUSCANGRILLATuscangrillismadeupofaflat,lowmetaltraythatholdstheburningwoodand coals, a metal frame with notches, and a grill rack with two woodenhandlesthatletthecookeasilyadjusttheracksoitsitsfartherorclosertotheheat.Youcancookinyourfireplacewithoutthistypeofgrill(peoplehaveforcenturies)butusingthisprotectsthebottomofyourfireplacefromfoodspillsandgivesyousomeflexibilityinhowyouusethefire’sheat.

HEARTHSIDELEVERGRILLA levergrill holds foodover the firewithout actually sitting in the flames. It’shandybecause it setsupeasily, folds forstorage,andyoudon’thave todealwithashwhenyouwanttoputthehearthgrillawayandhavearegularfireinyourfireplace.(Wedon’thaveaphotographofthistypeofgrillinthebookbutyoucanseeitifyougotoNapaStyle.com.)

HOOKYou’llneedtoinstallasturdyhooktoholdtheLegofLambonaString(page86)butonceyou try thismethod,you’llwant tocookothercutsofmeat thisway, too.Mosthardwarestoressell this typeofhook,which iseasy to install.Justmake sure you get a hook that can hold up to 25 pounds, and install itaccording to the manufacturer’s directions. Use the drill bit size that themanufacturerrecommendstomakeahole for thehook,andepoxy thehookintothedrilledholeatleastafewdaysbeforeyouhanganythingfromitsotheepoxyhastimetocureanddry.

DRIPPINGSPANBefore basting the leg of lamb with salt water, set out pans to protecthearthstonesfromthedrippings.Abakingsheetortwowilldothetrick.

HOTBOXI can’t imagine cooking a whole pig or a rib fest like the one on page 149withoutmyhotbox. Iown threeof them,andhavebeenknown to fireupallthreeatthesametime.

Thehotboxisbigenoughtoroastawholepig—that’swhatitwasdesignedfor—but it’salso ideal foradozenchickensorawhole fishorenough ribs tofeedfiftypeople.Thismethodofcookingdoesn’trequireconstanttendingthewaymostgrills

do.Ahotboxholdsintheheat,doesagreatjobofcooking,andprovidessomedramawhenyouliftoutthefinishedproduct.I also really like how portable the hot box is. Because it’s on wheels and

made of aluminum-lined wood, I can push it where I want it to be withoutneedinganyassistance.Bottomline: ifyoucookforafewdozenpeopleonaregularbasis,thismightbeyourbestlive-firetool.

ROTISSERIEORSPITJACKArotisserieholdsmeatorvegetables(orevencake,seepage175)onaspit,rotatingitoverthefireforsteady,evencooking.Aspitjackisaspecifictypeofstand-alonerotisseriethatyoucanplaceoverafirepitoracampfire.Whenbuyinga rotisserie,checkwith themanufacturerofyourgrill first to

seeif theymakearotisseriethatfitsyourgrill.Seemoreaboutrotisseriesonpage164.

ROTISERRIECAGEMost rotisserie cages cost less than thirty dollars. I’ve also seen folksmaketheir own cages by punching holes in a number ten can (the largest-sizecommercialcan)butthesedayssomecansarecoatedwithenamelsinsidethatcouldbetoxicwhenheatedoverflame,sousecautionifyouattempttomakeacage.Usingacageissimple.Youslidethespinrodthroughthecage,andsecure

it.(Usuallytheyclickintoplace.)Thensnapthespinrodintoplaceonyourgrill.Open the cage’s hatch and pour in the Brussels sprouts or peppers, orwhateveryouwanttocook.Closeupthehatchandstarttherotisserie.

PLANCHAA plancha is a simple thick slab ofmetalmade to rest over a flame. I use aplancha just about every time I cook with fire because it gives me a goodamountof space tocookandalsoprovidesagorgeouscruston foods, fromcauliflowertosteaks, that Idon’tgetbycookingrightonthegrill rack.Tometheplanchaislikemovingmystoveoutside.

Measureyourgrillbeforebuyingaplanchasoyouknowyou’reorderingtherightsize.(Formoredetailedinformation,seeUsingaPlancha,page104.)

STOCKINGANOUTDOORPANTRYANDANINDOORPANTRY

Ihavetwokindsofpantries.Thefirstoneisoutside,whereIstoremywoods,charcoal,grapevinecanes,andallmygrillingequipment.Theotherpantryisthenormalone,indoorsinmykitchen.

THEOUTDOORPANTRYWood smoke is the secret ingredient to outdoor cooking.Withwood as thefuel,youcancookmoresatisfyingdishesfromjustafewingredientsbecausethe flavor of smoke infuses the food.When you consider that every type ofwood adds its own specific flavor to your food, it makes sense to set up apantryforhardwoodsandcharcoal.Youpairfoodandwoodjustasyouwouldpairfoodandwine.I’lloftenpaira

winetothewoodIwillcookoveraswellastothefoodonthemenu.Forwine-tastingdinners, I’ll grill foodover canes from the vineyardswhere thewines’grapesgrew.Some wood-food pairings are obvious, like cherry wood and lamb. Any

protein that loves fruit flavor—ham, pork, lamb—benefits from fruit woodsmoke.Oakismygo-towood;it’smygraysalt,thewoodIturntomostoften.

WOOD-FOOD-WINEPAIRINGSHereareafewwoodpairingsthatIfollow.

WOOD FOODPAIRING WINEPAIRING

Alder Fish,especiallysalmon Chardonnay

Apple Bacon,ham,pork PetiteSyrah

Wildboar Anold-vineredCherry Lamborham PinotNoirHickory BBQorroastedchicken Zinfandel

Nut WildgamebirdsGoat

BarbarescoRosé

Pecan Quail,dove BaroloAlmond,Hazelnut Pheasant Merlot

Oak BeefVenison

CabernetSauvignonMalbec

Stonefruit Lightseafood SémillonBlancWinecanes–CabernetSauvignon Beef CabernetSauvignon

Winecanes–Zinfandel Pork,ham,orlamb Zinfandel

WOODSTONEVERCOOKOVER

•Pine,cedar,fir,orwoodfromanyresinoustree:Thesegiveoffabittersmokethatleavesabadtasteonfood.

•Willow:Containstoomuchwater.

•Oleander:Poisonous.

•Mountainlaurel:Poisonous.

•Bay:Impartsabitterflavor.

•Woodthat’sbeentreatedwithanykindofpaint,finish,lacquer,orchemical.

•Woodthat’sbeenstoredneargasoline,turpentine,orotherflammableliquids.

•Dampormoldywoodthathasn’tbeenprotectedfromrain.

CHOOSINGANDSTORINGWOODFor cooking it’s best to use seasoned hardwood. Seasoned wood is simplywoodthathashadatleastsixmonthstodry.Woodseasonedforsixmonthstotwo years offers the most consistent, hot, long-burning flame. Wood that isunseasoned(orgreen)hasahighermoisturecontent,doesn’tburnashotorevenly,and letsoffmoresmoke.For thecooking fireswe’lluse in thisbook,seasonedhardwoodisthewaytogo.

Firewoodneedstobestoredinadryspot. Ifstoringwoodindoors,keepitaway from fromanything that emits fumes suchaspaint, gasoline, or powermowers.Don’tstorewoodnearaheatsourcesuchasawaterheater.Whetherstoringwoodindoorsoroutdoors,keepitelevatedofftheflooror

ground, either on shelving or palettes. You can create your own palettes byrestingsolid two-by-foursonbricks,and thenstacking thewoodon the two-by-fours.Thegoalistoletaircirculatebeneaththewood.Ifstoringwoodoutdoors,protect it fromrainorsnowbycovering itwitha

tarp.Ifyou’restartingwithgreenwoodthatyouwanttoseasonyourself,leaveituncoveredduringthesummermonthsandletthesunandwindhelpdrythewood.If you live someplace where wood can’t dry between showers, store

firewoodundercover.

WHENTOSEEKOUTFRUITTRIMMINGSAllfruitfarmershavetoprunetheirtrees,generallyinthefallorspring.That’swhentoheadouttothecountry.(Andeverytownhascountryatsomepoint.IfyouliveinNewYorkCity,callyourfavoritewineryoutonLongIslandandaskwhenthey’llbepruningtheirvines.Choosethatdaytogotastetheirwines,buyacase,andaskforsometrimmings.)Thesedaysmanyfarmersusechippers.Ifyouseewoodbeingchipped,stop

andaskifyoucangatherupafewbagsofchips.Keepwoodchipsinclothorburlap bags stored elevated on shelving or palettes, in a spot where they’reprotectedfrommoisture.

CHOOSINGANDSTORINGCHARCOALAll charcoal is not created equal. For example, chunks ofmesquite charcoalfromTexasaddaricher,smokierflavorthancharcoalbriquettes.Irarelyusebriquettes.Ipreferlumpcharcoal,andtendtobuyLazzaribrand

(seeResources,page218).What’sthedifferencebetweenlumpcharcoalandbriquettes?It’slikethedifferencebetweengraysaltandtablesalt.Justasgraysalt is less refined, so is lump charcoal closer to its natural state. For lumpcharcoal, wood (and onlywood) is heated to a temperature high enough todrive out all the volatile chemicals, leaving behind big chunks of carbon. Inmaking briquettes, the carbon chunks are then ground up,mixedwith fillers(suchascorncobs),andpressedintothefamiliarpillowshape.Theadvantagetobriquettesisthey’recheaperthanlumpcharcoalandthey

burnmore consistently. Because lump charcoal comes in chunks of varyingsize, itwon’tburnquiteasevenlyasbriquettes.Ontheotherhand,briquettescan’t reach the high temperatures you can get with lump charcoal, andbriquettes leave a lotmore ash. Lump charcoal burnsmore cleanly (leavinglessash)andimpartsabettertastethanthebriquettesI’vecookedwith.Charcoal is a valuable resource. I storemy charcoal just like I’d storemy

wine—inacool,dryspot.Ifyouleaveyourcharcoaloutdoors,sittinginthehalf-emptybagitcamein,exposedtosun,air,andmoisture,yourfirewon’tburnashotandyourcookingwon’tbeasconsistent.Whenyou’redonegrilling for theday,wrapup yourunusedcharcoal in a

plasticgarbagebagorstore it inanairtightbinso thenext timeyougrill, thecharcoalburnscleanlyandsteadily.

THEINDOORPANTRYForan Italian,awell-stockedpantrymeansasenseofwell-being. It’snot justbeing prepared for any kind of contingency that makes my full pantry sosatisfying. Forme, there’s a senseof accomplishmentwhen I open thedoorand see the stocked shelves. My full pantry inspires me, comforts me, andmakesmefeelreadytohandlewhatevergetsthrownmyway.Don’tforgetthatyourpantryextendsbeyondthecupboarddoor.Myfreezer

is a valuable part of my pantry, and I know I can always find stock, breadcrumbs,compoundbutter,andmynonna’stomatosaucewaitinginmyfreezeruntilIneedthem.

ANCHOVIESI prefer salt-packed anchovies. When you open the container, hold the fishunder cold running water and use your fingers to coax apart the two filletsdowntheback.Liftouttheskeleton,tossit,rinsethefillets,andpatdry.

BEANS,DRIEDSeekoutunusualheirloomvarietiesatfarmers’marketsandinspecialtystores.I store all my beans in airtight containers and date them, noting when Ipurchased them. Beans are best when cooked within a year from the timethey’redried.

BREADANDBREADCRUMBSI likecountry-stylebread,whichmeansloaveswithagood,sturdycrustanda

dense,chewyinterior.Buybreadsthatcontainnothingbutflour,water,yeast,and salt. You can typically find this bread at a bakery, although premiumgrocerystoresoftencarrygoodbreadsaswell.Whenyourbreadgrowsstale,makebreadcrumbsbyslicingthebreadinto

cubesand thengrinding them in your foodprocessor to thecoarseness youwant.Ispreadthemonabakingsheet,freezethem,andthensealthemupinthebags.Frozenbreadcrumbskeepforupto1month.

CALABRIANCHILEPASTEThis has a smoky flavor and awarm rich spiciness that isn’t overwhelminglyhot. Look for the words silafunghi, specialità dalla Calabria, or peperoncinotritatopiccanteonthejar.Ifyoucan’tfindthese,seekoutchilesfromCalabria.SeeResources,page218.

CAPERSIprefer salt-packedcapers.Rinse them incoolwaterand let themdrain inafine-meshstrainerbeforeusing.

CHEESEWhenever you see thewordParmesan in this book, know that I’musing thereal thing, Reggiano. Look at the rind of the cheese for those two words:Parmigiano-Reggiano.Youcheatyourselfwhenyoubuypoorsubstitutes;thetasteandtextureoftrueReggianoisoneoflife’sgreatpleasures.Don’tthinkofthisasjustagratingcheese—it’sacheesetraychoiceaswell.I

bring wedges of Parmigiano-Reggiano to room temperature and serve it toguests.

CHOCOLATEWhetherbuyingmilkordarkchocolate,bringthebest flavor toyourdessertsby choosing a premium brand such as Scharffen Berger, Callebaut, orValrhona.Wrapchocolatewellandstoreitinacooldarkspot.

MUSHROOMS,DRIEDIalwayskeepdriedporcinisonhand.TheonesfromItalyarethebest.Soakthemushroomsinwarm—nothot—waterfor15to30minutesbeforeusingthem.Aftersoaking,strainthe liquidthroughapapercoffeefilterandaddit toyourrecipe for a woodsy flavor that I love. Store driedmushrooms in an airtight

containerforuptooneyear.

NUTSI buy both raw nuts and roasted nuts. Some nuts, such as pine nuts, I toastmyself just before cooking (see page 58). I also always have walnuts,hazelnuts, and pistachios, as well as Marcona almonds from Spain in mypantry,alreadyroastedandreadytoserve.Iknowmanyfolksliketostoretheirnuts in the freezer. I don’t. I keepmynuts in airtight containers inmypantrybecauseIgothroughthemfairlyquickly.

OLIVEOILImainlyusethreetypesofoliveoil inmykitchens:everydayextra-virginoliveoil,special-useextra-virginoliveoil,and“pure”oliveoil.Throughoutthisbook,ineachrecipeI’venotedwhetheryoushoulduseextra-virginoliveoil.

Myeverydayextra-virginoliveoil isrelatively inexpensive,especially ifyoubuybythejugandstoreinacool,darkplace.I save pricier extra-virgin olive oils for use as a condiment, drizzling it on

steaks,whitebeans,orpastajustbeforeserving.Athirdtypeofoliveoil,called“pure,”hasa lighter,milderflavor.Thisolive

oildoesn’thavethewords“extra-virgin”onthelabel; itgenerallycomesin3-liter tins like the ones you see on page 134. This oil can reach a highertemperature without smoking and adds a lighter flavor to foods that I don’twant to overwhelmwith a stronger olive oil. Paler than extra-virgin oils, andstraw-colored, this is theoil touse if a recipe in thisbookcalls for “oliveoil”(withnomentionofextra-virgin).

OLIVESIlikekalamatasfromGreece,gaetasfromItaly,andpicholinesfromFrance,allbrine-cured. Ialsolikethewrinklydry-curedolives(alsocalledoil-cured)thatyoufindineverycountrycirclingtheMediterraneanSea.Ibuyoliveswithpits,because thepitshelppreserve theolive’s flavorand

texture.Mostolives canbepittedeasily; if apit is stubborn, usea cleaver tolightlysmashtheolive,whichshouldloosenitsholdonthepit.Onceyouopenolives,storetheminanairtightcontainerinyourfridge,and

keepthemsubmergedinbrine.

PASTA,DRIEDIlovemakingfreshpastadoughbutIalsokeepdriedpastaathome.Thetrickis to buy good-quality dried pasta. Lower-quality dried pasta is bland andbecomessoggyandovercookedtooquicklywhilegoodpastagivesyousomeleewaywithitscookingtime.I buy dried pasta from artisan producers such as Rustichella d’Abruzzo.

Pasta from Barilla, another Italian producer, can be found in many grocerystoresandisbetterthanmostofwhatyou’llfindontheshelf.BothRustichellad’AbruzzoandBarilla shape theirpastawithbronzedies,

ratherthantheTeflon-coateddiesusedbymostpastaproducersintheUnitedStates.Thebronzegivesthepastaaveryfaintlytexturedsurface(youcanseethis if you look under a magnifying glass). This lets the pasta “hold on” tosauces better. Both of these producers also air dry their pasta very slowly,whichmeanspastastillhassome“chew”whenitemergesfromthewater.Thisgivesthecooksomeflexibility:youcanleaveahigh-qualitypastainhotwaterforanextraminuteortwowhileyoufinishasauceanditwon’t loseshapeortexture.

SALTSalt is the only ingredient that goes in everything you cook and bake. Thesimpleryourfood,themoreimportantitisthateachingredientbestellar,andthisisespeciallytrueofyoursalt.IusegraysalteverysingledayandeventakeitontheroadwithmewhenI

travel.Whatisgraysalt?It’sanunprocessedseasaltfromBrittanythatretainsallthemineralsfoundinthesea.Graysaltismoistandalmostlavenderincolorand it’scollectedbyhand justas ithasbeen forcenturies.Graysalt isworthseekingoutbecauseitsnaturalflavorismuchmorethanjust“saltiness.”True

Brittany sea salt has flavor notes of algae and violets. Those flavor notesbenefiteverythingyoucook.Becausegraysaltismoistandcoarse,it’smoreofachallengetodistribute

evenly.Idryitbyspreading2to4cupsofsaltonabakingsheetandlettingitsit in a 200°F oven for 2 hours, then I pound the salt or grind it in a spicegrinderuntilit’smedium-coarse.IstorethesaltthatI’vedriedandpoundedinairtightcontainersinmypantryuntil it’stimetoreplenishmysaltboxthatsitsnexttomystove.

TOMATOESI always have cans of plumpMarzano whole tomatoes in my pantry. In thesummer,Idon’tusetheseoften;Ipicktomatoesoffthevineasneeded.Butinwinter,thesecansareopenedeveryweek.I never buy diced or puréed tomatoes and rarely use tomato paste,

preferring to push whole canned tomatoes through a food mill just beforecooking.Ittakesabout1½poundsoffreshplumtomatoestomake2cupsofpurée. A 28-ounce can of whole Marzano tomatoes makes about 3½ cupspurée.Ifyoufindpassata(Italiantomatopurée)injarsorbottlesimportedfromItaly, buy a case and stock up. Otherwise, you’ll see a recipe for passata onpage213.I’mabig fanofMuirGlen’sorganiccanned tomatoes.BecauseMuirGlen

uses enamel-lined cans rather than unlined tin, there’s no worry about offflavors.

VINEGARInvest in high-quality vinegars; thewrong vinegar can ruin a beautiful salad.Tastevinegarsandfindbrandsthatyoulike.Badwinevinegar(andtherearealot of bad vinegars out there) taste harsh, with an unpleasant aroma. Goodwinevinegarisfruity,aromatic,andmellow.Balsamic vinegar is one of my kitchen essentials. I keep an aged aceto

balsamico tradizionale for sprinkling sparingly over Parmesan cheese or agrilledsteak.Ialsostockamoderatelypriced,youngerbalsamicvinegartousemore freely in vinaigrettes. Avoid inexpensive balsamic vinegar—it’s oftennothingmorethanwinevinegarandcaramel.LookforreputablebrandsfromModena,Italy,andtastevinegaruntilyoufindonethat’srich,dark,andglossy,with hints ofwood from the casks inwhich the vinegar aged, and an almostsweet flavor and depth. Check the label to see howmany years a balsamic

vinegar has been aged. Don’t buy balsamic vinegar that has been aged forfewer than12years.Avinegaragedfor25yearsshouldhaveacreamy, full-bodiedflavor,andahundred-year-oldbalsamicoisathingofbeauty.

CHAPTERONE

BUILDINGTHEFIRE

Every familyhas iconicevents:a family reunion,adaughtergettingmarried,afiftiethweddinganniversary.Youwantthememoriesfromtheseeventstolastalifetime.Arentedhall,acaterer hired for the big event—these are sometimesnecessary.Butifyoucan,Iurgeyoutobringthemealoutsideand let the time spent building the fire become part of theday’smemories.Fireisitselfanicon.Tocenteramealaroundafiremarks

anoccasion,andsears theday intoyourmemory.Nosinglefoodcanbringlight,warmth,andmeaningtoagatheringthewayfirecan.

WholeLambonanIronCrosswithMintPestoandChile-FennelTzatzikiRosemaryParmesanFlatbreadwithBurrataandTornFigsStrawberryPazzoCakewithHerbedCrèmeFraîche

THEFIREANDTHECROSS

THEFUELThebestfireforcookingisawoodfire.Allthingsbeingequal—time,resources,theweather—IwouldcookoverawoodfireallthetimeifIcould.It’shardtobespiritualaboutasix-burnerrestaurant-gradestove,butwhen

afirewarmsyourfaceandthestarsfilltheskyoverhead,smallworriesvanishandwondertakesover.There’s a flavor edge to cooking with wood that you don’t get anywhere

else. If I burn apple wood or the kiln-dried Cabernet canes from my ownvineyards, these contribute their character to a great cut of beef or awholegamebird.For big parties, I’ll often combine wood and charcoal, starting with a

charcoal fire and adding wood later. Charcoal forms a more even, longer-lastingcoalbedthanwoodalone,soacombinationfirecangiveyouthebestofbothworlds.Don’t start cookingoverwooduntil the firehasburned to coals.Decades

ago, I was smacked down by a critic, and rightfully so, when I cooked overwoodthathadn’tburneddownfarenough.Thecriticwrotethatmyfoodhada“creosote flavor.” Thinking about that review still makesme wince. Be sureyourwoodhas transformed toglowingcoalsbeforeyouputany foodon thefire.Addnewwoodtothebackofthefire,andrakeitforwardwhenit’sready.

ONE IMPORTANT POINT: Always have a good supply of dry kindling andsmalland large logsnearby. It’snotoptimal tobehunting for fuelwhenyourmeatisonthefire.

HOWTOSTARTAFIREBeforeyoustartanyfire,readStaySafe.Standinthespotwhereyouplantobuild the fire andmake sure the ground is clear, with no brush, grasses, ortreeswithin30feet.Checkthedirectionofthewind.Ifthewindblowsstraightfromyourfirepit

towhereyourguestswillsit,considerlocatingthefiresothesmokewillblowawayfromyourdiningtable—ormovethetable.Istartafirewiththesmallest,mosteasilyignitedfuelfirst.Icrumpleupfour

orfivesheetsofnewspaper,andthenputdowntall,thinpiecesofkindlingsooneendrestsonthegroundandtheotherendrestsonthecrumpledpaper.Then I add larger pieces of kindling, again leaning them so they touch thegroundatthebottomandthetipscometogetherat thetopabovethepaper.You’reaiming forakindof teepeeshape.Adda fewthin logs thesameway,andthen lighta longpieceofkindlinganduse it toset thepaperat thefire’scenter ablaze.Wait until the fire is really going before you addmedium-sizelogs,andwaituntilthosecatchandareburningwellbeforeaddingbiglogstothefire.

DON’TSTARTCOOKINGOVERWOODUNTILTHEFIREHASBURNEDTOCOALS.

USINGANIRONCROSS

Anironcrossworksasaframe,holdingawholelambopenbesideafiresoitcooksevenlyandthoroughly.Forthisbook,we’veusedanironcrossmadeofavertical ironbarwith twohorizontalcrossbarswelded in place. (I’ve also seen a frame that looks like an X, witheachofthelamb’slegssecuredtoonebranchoftheX.) Roastinga lambon an iron cross is not a one-manoperation.Have at leastonebuddy(maleorfemale)readytohelpyou;havingtwoorthreefriends nearby is even better. Read The Lore of theNight Before,page36, ifyouhesitatetoaskforhelp.Beingaskedtotakepart inthebiglambdinnerprepisanhonor,notachore.

FINDINGANIRONCROSSSeeResources, page 218, forwhere to order an iron cross. You could saveyourselfsomeshippingchargesifyoufindametalworkernearyoutofabricateone(doanInternetsearchfor“blacksmith”plusthenameofyourtown).Ifyouknow any horse people,most good farriers should be able tomake an ironcross to these specifications: 7-foot vertical bar (about 2 inches wide) with1⅛-inch-diameterholes.Thecrossbarsshouldbe3feetacross,1-inchoutsidediameter to fit the holes in the vertical bar. Take this book, show them thephoto, and have them weld a cross. Long before the day of the party, youshouldchecktomakesurethecrossbarisweldedfirmlytotheverticalbar.Youcoulddigadeep,narrowholeandstand the ironcross in theground

likeafencepostrightoverthefire.Iprefertousemetalstandsmadeofheavycast irontoholdupthehighestendof thecrossbecausetheygivememoreflexibility toadjust themeatover theheat.Thestands Iusehavebrackets toholdthetopofthecrossfirmly.Lookforthistypeofmetalstandinhardwarestoresorphotographysupplystores,orseeResources,page218.

SEEKINGOUTAWHOLELAMBIt’sworthvisitinga farmers’markets to findsomeone localwhoraises lambs.Youalsocanorderwholeorhalf lambsfromHeritageFoods(seeResources,

page218),andbeconfidentthatthelambswereraisedinawaythatconsiderstheplanetaswellastheanimal.Whenyouorderwholelamb,planonslightlylessthan1poundperperson.

Duringarecentwineauctiondinner, Iordered130poundsofwholelambfor150people.(Theaverage100-poundlambyieldsabout35poundsofmeat.)If you’re serving fewer than thirtypeople,gowithoneor twobaby lambs;

they’remucheasiertotrussandhandlethanafull-sizelamb.

WHOLELAMBONANIRONCROSSWITHMINTPESTOANDCHILE-FENNELTZATZIKI

Serves30to40

WhenIconsiderallthepeople,throughoutcenturies,whohaveusedthismethod tocooka lamb, I feel likeonesmalldot inavery longtimeline.Thisisa30-logkindofafire.Tobesafehave3dozenlogs,eachabout6 inches indiameterandeachcompletelydry,stacked,andreadybeforeyoubringhomethelamb.Formoreinformationonfindingan ironcross, seeUsingan IronCross, page28, aswell asResources, page 218. The basting liquidmakes enough for two20-poundlambsoronelamborpigupto45pounds.Ilovetheflavorbutcher’ssaltadds to thebasting liquid.Butcher’ssalt isablendofsalt and spices from France made especially for meat. SeeResources,page218,forbutcher’ssalt,oruseasmalleramountofblackpepperinitsplace. Inaperfectworld,you’dbastethelambwhile it cooks using a branch of rosemary as your brush. Siliconebastingbrushes—asbigasyoucanget—dothejobjustfinetoo.

Two20-poundlambsor1lamborpigupto45pounds

BASTINGLIQUID

1looselypackedcupfreshsageleaves½cupfreshrosemarysprigs½cupfreshthymesprigs4cupsfreshflat-leafparsley2cupsfreshmint1½cupsfreshoregano8garliccloves1tablespoonkoshersalt1tablespoonbutcher’ssalt(seeheadnote)or½tablespooncoarselygroundblackpepper

2cupsoliveoil2cupsdrywhitewine6bayleaves,freshordriedMintPesto(seepage32)Chile-FennelTzatziki(seepage32)

FOR THE BASTING LIQUID: In a food processor, or in a blender in batches,combinethesage,rosemary,thyme,parsley,mint,oregano,garlic,koshersalt,and butcher’s salt or pepper. Process to a coarse purée. With the machinerunning,addtheoilandwineandpuréeuntilsmooth.Transfer the liquidtoacontainerwithalid,addthebayleaves,andrefrigerateuntilthelambgoesonthefire.

SETTINGUPFORTHELAMB:Whenyou’rereadytostartcooking,cleanthelamb,butdon’ttieittothecrossuntilyou’vestartedthefire.(SeeHowtoStartaFire,page26.)Whenthefireisreadyforthebiglogs,addthemandthenfastenthelambontothecrosswhilethefireburnsdowna little.Lookat thefires Ihaveundermylambs inthephotoonpage29;thefireyouneedtobuildwon’tbethesizeofabonfirebutjustbigenoughtoprovidesteady,evenheatforthe4hoursthatthelambwillcook.Haveoneortwofriendsholdthelambupagainsttheverticalbar,withthe

lamb’s shoulders toward theground,while you tie eachof the four legs to acrossbar(seethephoto,following).Thebackofthelambshouldbeagainstthecross;theribsshouldbefacingouttowardthefire.Useaheavy-gaugewire(atleast 16-gauge, found in any hardware store) to securely tie each leg to acrossbarandthenusethewiretofastenthenecktothecenter,verticalbar.When the firehasdieddownslightly so it’snot raging flames,maneuver theironcrossintoplacesoit’sclosetothefirebutnotrightontopofit.Useyourhandstotestthatthelambiscloseenoughtotheheattocook.You’llwanttoallowatleast4to5hoursforalambthatweighs30to45poundsand6hoursforalambthatweighsmorethan45pounds.Checkthefireperiodically.Ifitbeginstocool,addlogsbutalwaysaddnew

wood to the edge of the fire farthest from the iron cross; you don’t wantflaminglogsunderthelamb.Whenthenewwoodglowsredandisnolongeremittinglotsofsmokeandflame,thenrakeitforwardclosertothelamb.Don’trelyontimealonetodeterminewhenthemeatisdone.Formedium-

rare lamb, it’s done when the meat registers 145°F on a meat or probethermometer.Take the lamboff the fireand let it rest for15minutesbeforeyoubegintocarve.

Ifyouhaveanironcrosswithrings,slideeachoftheanimal’slegsthroughtherings.Secureeachlegbytwining16-gaugestainlesssteelpicturewirearoundthelegandthecrossbar.(Youcanfindwireinyourlocalhardwarestore.)

Don’tuseawirethat’stoolightweighttoholdtheanimalanddon’tusewirewithanykindofcoatingonit.

Havea largeheat-proof surface ready for the lamb.Abutcherblock table isideal.Askafriendortwotohelpplatethelambasyoucarve.

TOCARVE:Firstuntiethewirefromthelambanddiscardit.Cutawaythehindlegsatthejoint;themeatshouldbetenderenoughsothisiseasy.Next,carveat theshoulder,workingdowntowardthe front legs.Cutawaythefront legs,and thencarve the lambonesectionata time,working from the ribs towardthebackbone.

MINTPESTOMakesabout1¼cups

There’sareasonmintjellyhasbeenservedwithlambforgenerations:it’stheidealcomplementtotherich,savoryroastedmeat.Thisdeliciouspestohasamuch stronger freshmint flavor than any store-bought jelly. You can findascorbicacidinhealthfoodstores. ItworksbetterthananythingI’vefoundtokeepthispestobrightgreen.

SIMPLESYRUP

½cupwater½cupgranulatedsugar

3cupsfreshmint½cuppackedfreshflat-leafparsley1tablespoontoastedpinenuts(seepage58)½teaspoonmincedgarlicteaspoonascorbicacidorfinelygroundvitaminC

½cupextra-virginoliveoil2tablespoonsSimpleSyrup¼teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt⅛teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

FORTHESIMPLESYRUP:Inasmallpanoverhighheatbringthewaterandsugartoaboil.Stiruntilthesugarisdissolved,andthentakethepanofftheheatandsetaside.

Bringabout2quartsofwatertoaboil inastockpotoverhighheat.Whilethewaterheats, setupan icebath—a largebowl fullof iceandwater.When thewater boils, blanch themint for 30 seconds.With a slotted spoon transfer itfromthehotwatertotheicebath.Blanchtheparsleyfor30secondsandthentransferittotheicebath.Removetheherbsfromthecoldwaterandsqueezeintoaballtoremoveexcessmoisture.Roughlychopthem.Inalarge,heavy-dutyblenderorafoodprocessor,blendthemint,parsley,

pine nuts, garlic, and ascorbic acid, pulsing just until combined. With themachinerunning,pourintheoliveoilveryslowly.Pourin2tablespoonsofthesimplesyrup. (Refrigerate theremainingsimplesyrupanduse it forcocktailsor to sweeten coffee or tea.) Add salt and pepper to the pesto, taste, andseasonwithmoresaltandpepperorsimplesyrupifyoulike.

CHILE-FENNELTZATZIKIMakes3cups

InGreece,wheneveryou’reserved lamb, itcomeswith the refreshingyogurtsauce known as tzatziki. The rich hot lamb and the cool, creamy sauce aremadeforeachother.IgavethisanItaliantwistbyaddingfennel,roastedlemonjuice,andCalabrianchiles.Usea traditional thickGreek-styleyogurt,suchasFage,andusethegreenfrondsatthetopofyourfenneltogivethisextraflavorandcolor. Formoreflavorgratethecucumber,catchingallthejuicesforthetzatziki. I liketomakethisat leastanhouraheadoftimesoitcanchillbeforeserving.

1juicylemon,halved1smallfennelbulbwithgreenfronds2cupsGreek-styleyogurt1teaspoonmincedgarlic1largewholepeeledcucumberor2smallwholepeeledcucumbers1teaspoonCalabrianchilepaste,or¼teaspoonredpepperflakes¼teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt⅛teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

Onahotgrillorinacast-ironpanoverafireoronthestove,placethelemonhalvescut-sidedown.Cookuntilthelemonshowssomechar,4to5minutes.Whenthelemonshavecooled,juicethemandthenstrainthejuicetogetridofsomeofthechar.Measureabout1tablespoonoftheroastedlemonjuiceandreservetheremainingjuice.Trimthefennel.Cutthewhitepartinto¼-inchdice(about1cup);coarsely

chopthegreenfronds(about1tablespoon).Inamediumbowl,mixthe1tablespoonstrainedlemonjuicewiththediced

fennel, yogurt, and garlic.Grate the peeled cucumber into ameasuring cup,catchingallthejuicethatyoucan.Addthegratedcukeanditsjuicetothebowlwhenyouhaveabout1cup.(A little lessorextra is fine.)Stir in thechoppedfennel fronds, chile paste, salt, and pepper. Taste and then add another fewteaspoonsofroastedlemonjuiceormoresaltandpepperifyoulike.Cover with plastic wrap, refrigerate, and chill for at least an hour or

overnight.Stirjustbeforeserving.

ROSEMARYPARMESANFLATBREADWITHBURRATAANDTORNFIGS

Serves6asanappetizer

Usethepizzadoughrecipeonpage94orbuydoughfromyourlocalpizzeria.Oncethedoughisonhand,thiscouldn’tbeeasierorfastertomake.

Two6-ounceballsofPizzaDough(page94)1teaspoonfreshrosemary2tablespoonsfinelygratedParmesan½poundBurrata6wholeripefigs

Coarseseasalt,preferablygraysaltFreshlygroundblackpepper

Presstogether theballsofdoughand,witharollingpin, roll intoa large, thinround.Carefullytransfertoahotpizzastone,closethegrill lid,andbakeuntilverycrisp,1 to2minutes.Take the flatbreadoff thepizzastonewithapizzapeelor two largespatulas.Sprinkle therosemaryandparmesanover the topwhileit’sjustoffthefire.Drop spoonfuls of Burrata on top the flatbread. Tear each fig into pieces

withyourfingers,addtotheflatbread,andfinishwithsaltandpepper.Sliceinto6pieceswithapizzacutter.

STRAWBERRYPAZZOCAKEWITH

HERBEDCRÈMEFRAÎCHE

Serves8

Twelve years ago, I made a simple bowl of “strawberriespazzo”—pazzo means “crazy” in Italian—formy friend Ann Spivack(this book’s co-writer). The combination of strawberries, balsamicvinegar, and black pepper has been part of my repertoire fordecades. Ann thanked me by baking me this pazzo cake. Thisdessert—while easy tomake—is a cut abovea standard strawberryshortcake. The cake batter is very forgiving and comes out wellwhenbakedonyourgrillorinyouroven.Bakethisinastandard8-by-8-inchbakingpan in youroven; if baking insidea coveredgrill,

pour the batter into a cast-iron skillet, enameled cast-iron bakingdish,orDutchoven. Thekeytotheherbedcrèmefraîcheisalighttouchwith the freshherbs.Youdon’twant tooverwhelmthecake.Weusedrosemarybutsmalltenderbasilleavesaredelicioustoo.We dressed up this cake for our Harvest Dinner by drizzling on abalsamicglaze,spooningRoastedStrawberries (page90)onto theplate,andfinishingwithanherbedcrèmefraîche.Youcanserveallthreewiththecake,anyoneofthem,orforgetallthreeofthemandjust serve the cake simply with a light dusting of confectioners’sugar.

HERBEDCRÈMEFRAÎCHE

1¾cupsCrèmeFraîche(page217)1tablespoonmincedfreshrosemaryleaves(ormincedfreshbasilleaves)

PAZZOCAKE

6tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,plusmoretogreasethepan

1½cupsall-purposeflour1½teaspoonsbakingpowder½teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt½cupgranulatedsugar¼cuppackeddarkbrownsugar1egg½cupwholemilk1teaspoonpurevanillaextract1poundfreshstrawberries,hulledandhalved

BALSAMICGLAZE

4tablespoonsbalsamicvinegar1tablespoonplus1teaspoongranulatedsugarAfewgrindsoffreshblackpepper

Confectioners’sugarfordusting,optional1cupRoastedStrawberrieswithsyrup(page90),optional

FOR THE CRÈME FRAÎCHE: Stir together the crème fraîche and the herbs.Refrigerateandletsitfor30minutesorovernight.

FORTHECAKE:Buttera9-inchcast-ironskilletor8-by-8-inchenameledcast-ironbakingpan(ifcookinginthegrill)orstandard8-by-8-inchbakingpan(ifbakinginyouroven).(Don’tputastandardbakingpaninsideyourgrilloroverafire.)Ignitethecoals,turnagasgrilltohigh,orpreheatanovento350°F.Whisktogethertheflour,bakingpowder,andsalt.Setaside.Inthebowlofa

standmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachmentorwithanelectricmixer,creamthebutterandsugarsonmediumspeeduntilthemixturelookscreamy,about3minutes.Slowlyadd theegg,milk, andvanillaandmix justuntil combined.Graduallyaddtheflourmixture,mixingjustuntilsmoothwithacreamytexture.Pour thebatter into thebutteredpan.Arrange the strawberryhalves, cut-

sidedown,ontopofthecakebatter.Don’toverlaptheberries;usejustenoughstrawberriesforonelayerandsetasidetheresttouseasgarnish.

TOBAKE INAGRILL:When thegrill reaches350°F,slide in thecake, resting thepanonthegrillrack,closethegrill’s lidandlet itbakeforat least20minuteswiththegrilllidclosed.Testthecake:It’sdonewhenaskewerinsertedintothecenter(butnotinastrawberry)comesoutcleanandthecakeisgoldenbrownontop.

TOBAKE INANOVEN:Bakefor10minutesandthendecreasetheheatto325°Fandbakeforanadditional45to50minutes.Thecakeisdonewhenaskewerinsertedintothecenter(butnotinastrawberry)comesoutcleanandthecakeisgoldenbrownontop.

FORTHEGLAZE:Whilethecakeisbaking,inasmallpancombinethebalsamicvinegar, sugar, andblack pepper.Bring to a boil over high heat and removefromtheheatrightaway.Setitasideuntilthecakehasbaked.Itshouldbetheconsistencyofmaplesyrup;ifitthickenstoomuchbeforethecakecomesoutoftheoven,stirinafewmorespoonfulsofvinegar.Assoonasthecakecomesofftheheat,drizzlethetopwithaboutthree-fourthsofthebalsamicglaze.

Whenthecakehascooled,cutitintowedgesifbakedinaskillet;ifbakedinastandard baking pan, cut it into squares. To garnish simply, top with a lightdusting of confectioners’ sugar. To dress up the cake, spoon several

tablespoonsof theRoastedStrawberriesontoonesideofeachplate;on theothersideoftheplatedrizzleasmallpoolofthebalsamicglaze,andsmearitlightlywith thebackofaspoon.Drizzlemorebalsamicglazeover thecake ifyoulike.Setacakesliceontopthestrawberrysyrup,andtopthecakewithaspoonfulofHerbedCrèmeFraîche.Spoonanyremainingcrèmefraîcheintoabowlandsetonaplatterwith leftoverhalvedstrawberries topass soguestscanaddextraiftheylike.

THELOREOFTHENIGHTBEFORE

Maybeyoudon’tneedtogetupinthemiddleofthenighttostartthefire.Maybeyoudon’tneedtwobottlesofNapa’s finestCabfor theeveningtobesearedintoyourmemory.Probablyyoudon’tneedthefifthofMaker’sMarktowashdownthesmoke.Whatyoudoneedisthestoryofwhatcomesbeforethemeal.WhenWayneBadovinus,who’s a larger-than-lifeMontanaman,

hadusuptohisSonomahouseforapigpickin’,weshowedupat7P.M.thenightbefore.Wedivviedupthechores,buildingthepitfromcinderblocksandrebarandshovelingasix-footpileofsandintothecenter.Waynelitthewood,andwegatheredaroundthepit.Huntingand

fishingadventuresweresharedas the fire roared, thewine flowed,and thewhiskeywaspassed fromhand to hand.Everyone aroundthefireknewnottoletthetruthgetinthewayofagoodstory.As theflamesdieddown,sodid the talking,andonebyonethe

peoplearound the firedroppedoff.Notme. Iwas in it for the longhaul alongwithWayne and his sonNick. Four hours later, the pigstarteditstrektoagreatmeal,andweputcoffeeonthefiretobrew.NickreadiedwhatmaybethebestbakedbeansI’veeverhadin

mylife, inagiganticDutchoven,andthoseofusstillawakestayednear the fire, breathing in the aromasof smoke, simmeringbeans,andcracklingpork.Something about a fire in the middle of the night gives you

permissiontotellastoryforthehundredthtime.Afiremakesajokefunnier than the last ten times you heard it. The lore of the night

before becomespart of themeal, savored as a first course beforethepigcomesoffthefire.

HARVESTDINNER

Every autumn we host a harvest dinner, pouringwines from our Chiarello Family Vineyards andserving foods that best complement thosewines.Weinviteonehundredpeopleandsetahundred-foottableinthevineyards.We’vehadguestscomefrom every continent. Some guests come everyyear, which means every year I try to outdo themeal I cooked theyearbefore.Familymakes thepartybetter.That’smewithmybrother,Kevin, inthepink-stripedshirt.For this dinner,we’re cookingwhole lambs on

iron crosses, each set over a fire begun hoursbefore. Read pages 28-31 to see how to use aniron cross and for the complete recipe for thelamb. You’ll find the recipes for the rest of theHarvestDinnerthroughoutthebook.We’venotedpagenumberssoyoucanfindthemeasily.

MENU

PASSEDAPPETIZERS

RosemaryParmesanFlatbreadwithBurrataandTornFigs

OystersontheHalfShellwithGrilledProsciuttoandMignonette

ANTIPASTO

GrilledVegetableAntipastiSott’Olio

HeirloomTomatoeswithWhippedBurrata,BasilOil,SmokedSeaSalt,andBalsamicReduction

BabaGhanoushwithToastedPineNutTahiniandSocca

PASTA

GrilledPastawithGrilledMeatballs

SECONDI

WholeLambonanIronCrosswithMintPestoandChile-FennelTzatziki

PotatoPolpette,TwoWays

BrusselsSproutswithLemonsinaRotisserieCage

DOLCI

StrawberryPazzoCakewithHerbedCrèmeFraîche

CHAPTERTWO

FIRECONTAINED:THEGRILL

Isometimesthink that fancygrills takeusastepawayfromwhatmatters—whatmattersisthefire.Ireadanarticleaboutamanwho’dbeenpreservedinaglacierintheTyroleanAlpsfor more than 5,300 years. He was carrying a small boxcontainingcharredwoodwrapped inmaple leaves.Themanhadnofire-startingtools,likeflint,soexpertsthinkhecarriedsmoldering wood to start his next fire. That guy comes tomindwhenever I cookovercharcoal; Iwonderwhathewasplanning to cookoverhisnext fire. Forhim, the firewasasimportantas—ormoreimportantthan—themealitself.Don’t let the grill come between you and the fire. The

fideau (seepage56) is agoodway tobringall yourguestsintotheaction.Setchairsaroundthegrillandhaveeveryonehelpsnaptherawpastaintopieces.Astheingredientsgointothepan—theonionandgarlic,thewine,thestock,thetomatosauce—everyone experiences the sizzle of the pan, the waythe aromas rise up. Plus the host gets to sipwine and chatwith friends during the process. This is the best part ofcookingwithfire.For all you burger aficionados, burgers get some love in

this chapter. A burger bash is one ofmy favorite parties tothrow(fliptotheendofthischapter,page65,toseerecipesfortheentireparty).

GrilledAvocado-MangoGuacamoleLemonLeaf–WrappedGoatCheesewithBalsamicReductionandGrilledOliveBreadGrilledVegetableAntipastiSott’OlioOystersontheHalfShellwithGrilledProsciuttoandMignonetteGrilledCrabswithFreshHerbsFideauwithVermicelli,GrilledShrimp,Chicken,andCalamariLemon-GarlicChickenwithTapenade,CookedUnderaBrickGrilledPastawithGrilledMeatballsGrilledLemon-SaffronPoundCakewithLavenderandFreshBerries

GETTINGREADYTOGRILL

Before starting the fire or heating up the grill, take a few steps soyourfoodcooksfasterandtastesbetter.Makesureyou’restockedupon fuel,withoneor twobagsof freshcharcoalanda spare fullcanisterofpropaneifyoudon’thaveadirectgas-linehook-up.

IGNITINGCHARCOALIavoid lighter fluidbecause it leavesabad tasteonmy food. Instead, I ignitecharcoalusingachimneystarter(seepage13),whichcangenerallybefoundforunder twentybucks. If youhave tochoosebetweenabigchimneyandasmallone,choosethebigone.Youcanalwaysfillitjusthalfwaywithcharcoal.Touseachimney,firsttakethegrillrackoffyourgrillandsetitaside.(You

don’twant to rest thechimneyonyourgrill rack.)Crumple two full pagesofnewspaperoralargebrownpaperbag,andlightlypushthepaperintothebaseofthechimney.Setthechimneyonthebottomofyourgrillandpourcharcoalintothechimney.Strikeamatchandholditthroughoneoftheopeningsatthebottomofthechimneyuntil thepaper ignites.Thepaperwill lightthebottomlayerofcharcoal,andthefirewillspreadupwarduntilallthecoalsignite.If you have any trouble lighting the coals in the chimney, douse a brown

paperbagorsomecrumpled-upnewspaperwithvegetableoilandpushitintothechimney’sbasefromthebottom.Mostofthetimeyouwon’tneedtoresorttooil.Whenmost of the coals begin to glow red but still show some gray and

blackontheedges,donafireproofglove,grabthehandleofthechimney,andcarefullypour theburningcoals into thebottomof yourgrill.Useapokerortongstospreadouttheglowingcoals,andaddafewmorelumpsofblackcoaltothecoalbed.

GRILLTEMPERATURESWe’veusedthefollowingnotationsforgrilltemperature.Onagasgrillit’sfairlyeasytoreduceorincreasetheheat.Onacharcoalgrill,useathermometertochecktheheat.Ifyouneedtoraisethetemperature,makesuretheventsareopenortakeoffthelidforaminute.Tolowerthetemperature,closeyourtop

grillventpartway.

High500°Fto600°FMedium-high450°Fto500°FMedium400°Fto450°FLow350°Fto450°F

CLEANINGTHEGRILLRACKHere’smy routine,which I do each timebefore grilling on a gas or charcoalgrill:FirstIgetmygrillhot,500°Forhotter.Letitheatforatleast10minutes.Ifyou’reusingacharcoalgrill,getthecoalsflaming(seeIgnitingCharcoal,totheleft)and let thefireburnwiththerack inplaceforat least10minutes.Whentherackishotbuttheflameshavedieddownalittle,useagrillbrushtoscrubthebars.(Note:Don’tuseanybrushexceptonemadeforhotsurfaces.Ifyoudon’thaveagrillbrush,wadupsomefoilandscrubthegrillwiththat—atrickmymomtaughtme.)Afterscrubbing,gatheragood,thickwadofpapertowels—at least8to10

sheets.Diphalfthewadinwater—itshouldbewetbutnotdripping—andthenuselong-handledtongstorubthewettowelsalongyourgrillrack.IdothiseverytimeIgrill,onanygrillIuse,gasorcharcoal.Acleangrillrack

meansyouhaveclear,distinctgrillmarksandyou’relesslikelytohavetoprystuck-onburgersfromtherack.Adisciplinedcooklearnstocleanthehotgrillwithina fewminutesafter the last food is takenoff and thenwipe the rungswithoilsothegrillispreppedaheadforthenextuse.

USINGYOURGRILLVENTSTheairvents inthelidofyourcharcoalgrillhelpyoucontrolthetemperatureinsidethegrill.Here’showyouusethem.Opentheventsallthewayjustbeforeyoustartthefire.Onceyourcoalsare

glowing,closetheventonthetopjustalittletolowerthetemperatureinside.Basically,more airmeans higher heat. If you ever have a fire inside the grillthat’soutofcontrol,closealltheventsandthefirewillburnitselfout.On a windy day, turn the grill’s lid so the breeze flows through the vent,

makingyourfirehotter.Thevent at thebottomshouldbe fullyopenandshould stayopenduring

cooking.Closeitonlyafteryou’redonecooking,whenyouwantthefiretogooutasquicklyaspossible.

GRILLEDAVOCADO-MANGOGUACAMOLEServes8to10

AtourflagshipNapaStylestore inYountville,weservesandwiches,soups, and small bites for people to trywhile they’rewine tasting.This version of guacamole—we actually call it “Rockamole” on ourmenu—flies out the door when we serve it at lunchtime. Grilledavocados and mango make this guacamole a great topping for aturkeyburger(seepage70)butit’salsofantasticasachipdiporaspread for bruschetta. I add a lot of garlic. You can tone yoursdown by halving the garlic amount if you prefer a less garlickyguacamole.

8ripeavocados2lemons,halved,fordrizzling(reserve1tablespoonofjuicefortheonion)

¼cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzling¾teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2mangoes½largeredonion2tablespoonsfinelymincedgarlic¾cupchiffonadeoffreshbasilleaves(seeChef’sNote)½cupsourcreamorCrèmeFraîche(page217)½cupfreshlygratedParmesancheese

Turnagasgrilltohighorignitecharcoal.Whenthegrillishot,forbothgasandcharcoalgrills,cleanyourgrillrack.Decreasethetemperaturetomedium-high(onagasgrillonly),andbrushorwipealittleoliveoilonthegrillrack.Halve,peel,andpittheavocados.Asyoupeeleachavocado,putthefleshin

abowlandsqueezefreshlemonjuiceontoptokeepitfromoxidizing.Drizzletheavocadohalveswithabout1 tablespoonof theoliveoilandsprinklewith

saltandpepper.Peelthemangoesandhavethemreadyforthegrill.Halve the red onion lengthwise into 2 equal pieces (wrap one piece in

plasticwrap, refrigerate, and save for another use). Cut the remaining piececrosswiseintothinhalf-moons.Placetheonionslicesinasmallbowlandpouroverthereserved1tablespoonoffreshlemonjuice.Tossandsetaside.Withtongs,placethepeeledavocadosandmangoesonthegrillrack.Grill

untilyouseesomegrillmarks,about1to2minutes,andthenturnthemoverand grill for another minute on the other side. Take the avocados and themangoesoffthegrillandsetthemasidetocool.Preheata10-inchsautépanatthestoveoracast-ironpanonthegrill.Add

¼cupofoliveoiltothepan,addthemincedgarlic,andsautéuntilitbeginstoshowsomecolor.Addthebasilandsautéuntilwilted.Transferthegarlicandbasiltoalargeglassorceramicbowlandallowtocool.With a fork,mash thegrilledavocado into thebasilmixture.Add the sour

creamor crème fraîcheand stir.Add theParmesanand stir.Dice thegrilledmangoaftercuttingawayanddiscardingthepits.Gentlystirinthemangoandtheredonionwith its lemonjuice.Tasteandaddmoreseasaltandpepper ifyoulike.Serverightawayorcoverwithplasticwrap,smoothingitacrossthetopof

theguacamoletokeepitfromdiscoloring,andrefrigerateuntilyou’rereadytoserve.Thisisbestservedonthesamedayit’smade.

CHEF’SNOTE:Achiffonadeoffreshbasilmeanscuttingtheleavesintoveryfineribbons.Theeasiestwaytodothisistoalignthewholewashedleavesbeforecutting. Stack the leaves with the center vein facing down, and all the tipspointinginthesamedirection.Rollupthestackofleavestightlyfromthesideasifyouwererollingacigar,andthen,startingatthetip,sliceintothinribbons.

VARIATION:Sometimesthegrilledavocadosandmangoesaretoonicetomash.Makea salad insteadwith2cupsoforganicbabygreensandsomearugula.Toss the greenswith¼ cup of theGrilled RedOnionDressing (page 213).Slicethegrilledavocadoandmangoesandarrangeontopofthegreenswithslicesofredonion.

LEMONLEAF–WRAPPEDGOATCHEESEWITHBALSAMICREDUCTIONANDGRILLEDOLIVEBREAD

Serves8

Ifyouhavealemontreeinyouryard,usetheleavestowrapupsoft,creamygoatcheesebeforegrilling.Theleaveswillflavorthecheesebutyoudon’tactuallywanttoeatthem.Pleaseuseleavesthathaveneverbeensprayed.Ifyoudon’thavealemontree,begsomeoffaneighbororbuygrapeleavesinjarsfromyoursupermarketandusetheminplaceofthelemonleaves(seeChef’sNote). Finerlemonzestisbetterforthisrecipe;Iuseafinemicroplanegraterforalight,clean zest. This recipe is simple but presents beautifully. Servewith ice-cold Falanghina (a white wine from Campania) or a roséfromyourfavoritewineregion.

One8-ounceloggoatcheese,slicedinto8equalrounds(1ounceeach)

2tablespoonsfinelygratedlemonzest(fromabout2lemons)½teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt4teaspoonsFennelSpiceRub(page208)16largeflawlesslemonleaves,preferablyfromanorganicsourceExtra-virginoliveoilforbrushing

BALSAMICREDUCTION

½cupbalsamicvinegar

One16-ounceloafolivebread,cutinto½-inch-thickslices8smallclusterssweetgrapes

Line a platter with parchment paper. Set the goat cheese slices on theparchment.Inasmallbowl,mix the lemonzestandsalt.Sprinkle thetopofeachgoat

cheeseroundwith the lemon-saltmixture.Turntheroundsoverandsprinkletheothersidewiththespicerub.Sandwichagoatcheeseroundbetween2lemonleaveswiththeshinysides

oftheleavesfacingawayfromthegoatcheese.Securetheleavesateachendwith toothpicksor forego the toothpicksand just turn the leavesandcheesevery carefully when they’re cooking. Refrigerate the cheese bundles until

you’rereadytogrill,atleast1hourorovernight.

FORTHEREDUCTION: I like theChef’s-StyleBalsamicReductionmethod (page209). If you don’t want to dealwith inverted sugar, you can reduce the old-fashionedway:Heat thebalsamicvinegar inasmallsaucepanovermedium-highheat.Bring toaboil and let the liquidcookuntil reducedbyhalf,6 to8minutes.(Theprocessspeedsuptowardtheend,sodon’twalkawayfromit.)Take the pan off the heat and let themixture cool. Skim off any foam. Youshouldhaveagenerous¼cupofbalsamicsyrup.Turnagasgrilltohighorignitecharcoal.Whenthegrillishot,forbothgas

andcharcoalgrills,cleanyourgrillrack.Decreasethetemperaturetomedium-high(onagasgrillonly),andbrushorwipealittleoliveoilonthegrillrack.Before grilling the leaf-cheese bundles, grill the bread. Brush the bread

slices lightlywitholiveoil, andheaton the rackuntilgrillmarksshow,1 to2minutes.Setthebreadaside.Brusheachsideof the leaf-cheesebundles lightlywitholiveoil.Place the

bundlesonthegrillandcookfor1to2minutesoneachside.

Setfourbundlesoneachplatter,andaddpiecesofgrilledbreadandaclusterofgrapes.Open thebundles,discard the top leaf,andspoona littlebalsamicreductionovereachroundofcheese.Pourextrareductioninto2smalldishesorramekinsandaddtotheplatters.Haveguestsspreadthesoftcheeseonthegrilledbreadanddrizzleonmorereductioniftheylike(buttellthemnottoeattheleaves).

CHEF’SNOTE:Grapeleavesworkwellwiththismethodalso.Youcanusefresh(unsprayed) grape leaves if you have access to them or use a jar of grapeleavesfromthemarket.You’llneedjust1grapeleafforeachbundle.Rinsetheleaves inwater.Withtheundersideof the leaf facingup,placeagoatcheeseround in the centerof the leaf and foldovereach side, then fold the tip andstemoftheleaftoformasmallpacket.Brushwitholiveoil,placeonahotgrillrack,andgrilluntilyouseedistinctgrillmarksontheleaf,butnotlongerthan2minutesperside.

THEURBANGRILL

Wewerecreatingsome live-firecocktails for thisbookandgrillingsomeofthedrinkingredientsonFrankieFrankeny’srooftopinSanFrancisco.(Frankie’smyphotographerandagreatfriend.)Whilewegrilledandtastedcocktails,wewerelookingoutoverthecitylights—a really breathtaking scene. When we needed a little sustenance,Frankiegot somebread and cheese, andmadeus thebest grilledcheesesandwichesIthinkI’veeverhadinmylife,rightonhersmallrooftopgrill.Thisstruckmeasthebestpossibleexampleofhowthegrillcan

make the simplest food memorable. And you don’t even need abackyard. It’snotthesizeofyourgrill thatmatters; it’sthelightandwarmthofa friendship—asreflectedbythefire—thatmakesamealgreat.You city dwellers out there, write me on Facebook and let me

knowwhichrecipesinthisbookyou’retryingoutonyoururbangrill.Thanksforthegrilledcheese,Frankie.

GRILLEDVEGETABLEANTIPASTISOTT’OLIO

Serves8

Sott’oliomeanspreservedinoilinItalian,buttheEnglishtranslationfalls short. To preserve something in oil is to give it its due. Mymom’ssister,myAuntRose,wouldusethismethodtopreservetunacaughtbymycousinsorlocalfishermen;itwasatreatforustogetafewjarsafteravisittotheircoastalOregontown.Wealsousedoliveoil topreservesun-driedtomatoes,salt-brinedgreentomatoesandeggplant,andvegetablesrightoutofourgarden. MymomnevergrilledhervegetablesbeforecanningbutIlovethesmoky,summerytasteitgivesthem.

6largeYukongoldpotatoes(about1½poundstotal)5tablespoonskoshersalt6mediumpeeledcarrots(about1¼poundstotal)2largefennelbulbs3smallgreenzucchini1largeeggplant(about¾pound)1tablespooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt,plusmoreforsprinkling

1poundsmallbuttonmushroomsorlargecreminimushrooms(leavethebuttonmushroomswholebuthalvethecreminifromdometostem)

¾cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzlingFreshlygroundblackpepper

Fillalargestockpotwithabout5quartsofcoldwater.Bringthewatertoaboiloverhighheat.Peelthepotatoeswhileyou’rewaitingforthepottoboil.Addthekoshersalttotheboilingwater,thenaddthepotatoes.Decreasetheheattokeepthewateratagoodsimmerbutnotahardboil.Cookuntilthepotatoesare about half done and still very firm, about 10 minutes. With tongs or aslottedspoon, take thepotatoesoutof thewater (leave thewater in thepot)andsetthemasidetocool.Addthecarrotstothehotwater,adjustingtheheatifnecessarytokeepthe

water at a strong simmer.Cook until the carrots are about half done, 3 to 4minutes.Transfer themtoaplate tocool, leaving thewater in thepot for the

fennel.Halvethefennellengthwiseandthencuteachhalfintosixwedges.Addthe

fennel to thepotofsimmeringwaterandcook forabout3minutes.Removethefennel,andallowittocool.Atthispointyoucandrainthewaterinthepot.Cuteachzucchinilengthwiseinto3longslabs.Setthemaside.Trimthestemandbottomfromtheeggplantandslice into¼-inchrounds

(approximately10slices).Rinseeachsliceincoolwaterandpatdrywithpapertowels.Sprinkletheonetablespoonseasaltovertheeggplantrounds.Lettheslicesrestfor15minutes,thenrinsethemincoolwaterandpatdryagainwithpapertowels.Turnagasgrilltohighorignitecharcoal.Whenthegrillishot,forbothgas

andcharcoalgrills,cleanyourgrillrack.Decreasethetemperaturetomedium-high(onagasgrillonly),andbrushorwipealittleoliveoilonthegrillrack.Cutthepotatoesinto¼-inchroundsandhalvethecarrotslengthwise.With a brush, give each vegetable a light coat of olive oil and then a

sprinklingof salt andpepper.You’ll cook thevegetables separatelyand theneitherservethemimmediatelyorrefrigeratethem.Grillthepotatoesforabout10minutes,thecarrotsforabout8minutes,the

zucchinifor7minutes,theeggplantslicesandmushroomsfor6minutes,andthefennelfor5minutes,turningwithtongsabouthalfwaythroughthegrillingtime.As each vegetable comes off the grill, transfer to a serving platter. Serve

whilewarmorkeepthemcoveredwithoilandrefrigeratedforupto1week.Ifyou cover the vegetables with olive oil, save the olive oil and use it in theSmokedOilDressing(page210).

OYSTERSONTHEHALFSHELLWITHGRILLEDPROSCIUTTOANDMIGNONETTE

Serves8

Forget shucking rawoysters. If you placewhole closedoysters onthegrill,notonlydo theyopeneasily,butyouadda littledrama tothe party. If you have already-shucked oysters, you can grill themtoo:justwipethegrillwitholiveoil,andgrillthenakedoystersforabare 2 minutes. Kumamotos and Bluepoints are both goodchoicesforgrilling.IloveourlocalHogIslandoysters,whichyoucanorderbymail,orseekoutgreatoystersfromafishmongernearyou.See Resources, page 218. A traditional mignonette (a classicvinaigretteforoysters),callsforshallots,butIlikethebolderflavorofred onion with the grilled prosciutto. Substitute 3 tablespoons ofdicedshallotsfortheredonionifyoupreferamoresubtleflavor.Ask your butcher for awhole pieceof prosciutto (not cut into thinslices the way it is normally). You’ll grill the prosciutto chunk andthencutitintostripsforthetopofeachoyster. Abrunoisediceisarestaurant kitchen technique in which the onion is diced into tiny,neatsquares.

24oystersintheirshells

MIGNONETTE

4tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil1tablespoonmincedfreshflat-leafparsley3tablespoonsredonion,cutintobrunoisedice(tinycubes)4tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice1teaspoongratedlemonzest½teaspoonCalabrianchilepaste,or¼teaspoonredpepperflakes¼teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt⅛teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

2-ouncechunkprosciutto(notsliced)½tablespoonwholepeppercorns,forgarnish

Placetheoysters ina largebowlandfill itwithcoldwater.Cleaneachoyster

withabrush,scrapingoffanylooseparticlesthatmaybeattachedtotheshell.Oncetheoystersarewellrinsed,drainoffthewater,makesureeachoysterisarrangedsothedeep-cupsideoftheshellfacesdown,andstoretheoystersintherefrigerator,coveredwithatowel.Neverstoreoysterssubmergedinwater.

FOR THE MIGNONETTE: Whisk together the oil and parsley in a bowl. (If youcombine the herbs and oil first, the herbs don’t brown as quickly.) Add theonion,lemonjuiceandzest,chilepaste,salt,andpepper.Coverandplaceitinthefridgetocoolforatleast30minutesorupto4hours.Turnagasgrill tohighor ignitecharcoal.Forbothgasandcharcoalgrills,

when the grill is hot, clean your grill rack. For a gas grill, decrease thetemperature tomedium-high, and brush or wipe a little olive oil on the grillrack.Withtongs,laythechunkofprosciuttoonthegrillandcookuntilthebottom

shows distinct grillmarks, 1 to 2minutes. Turn and grill the other side untilmarked,about2minutes.Removetheprosciuttofromthegrillandallowittocoolwhileyougrilltheoysters.

Makesurethegasgrillishotorthatyourcharcoalhasburnedtoahotpilethatshowssomeredglowbeneathgrayashycoals.Wipeeachoysterwithatowelandplacetheshelldirectlyonthegrillrack.

Whenall24oystersareonthegrill,closethegrilllid.Allowtheoysterstocookjustuntilyouhearthempoppingopen,3to4minutes.With tongs take the oysters off the grill, and snapoff anddiscard the top

shell, takingcarenot to lose the liquid inside theshell.Usinganoysterknife,gentlyscrapethebottomshelltoreleasetheoyster,withoutspillinganyliquidifyoucanhelpit.Cut the prosciutto chunk into strips, each about¼ inch thick and¾ inch

long. Fill several serving dishes (unless you have one big enough for 24oysters)withcrushediceandsprinklepeppercornsovertheiceforcontrast.Transfer the oysters, still on their half shells, onto the bed of ice, and top

eachoysterwithafewstripsofgrilledprosciutto.Spoonmignonetteovereachoyster, and pour the remainingmignonette into a small serving bowl, whichgetspassedaroundthetable.

GRILLEDCRABSWITHFRESHHERBS

Serves6

FreshDungenesscrab, inseason, isoneofthebestthingsyoucanthrowonthefire. Icallthis“grillandchill,”becauseI liketogrillthecrabs, refrigerate them, and serve them cold. You can serve themhot off the coals or chill them; both ways are good. Start withwhole, not cracked, crabs, and get them live if you can. I boil thecrabs inwater before putting them on the grill; the grilling adds asmoky flavor thatcomplements thesweetnessof thecrabmeat.Whenyou’rereadytoserve,pilethechilledcrabonabigplatterandservewith sliced cucumbers and tomatoes, dressedwith a simplevinaigretteortheSmokedOilDressing(page210).

6wholeDungenesscrabs(about1¼poundseach),cleaned6tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

HERBMARINADE

1lemon¾cupextra-virginoliveoil½cupmincedfreshtarragon¾cupmincedfreshflat-leafparsley1teaspoonwholeblackpeppercorns

CUCUMBERSALAD

4largecucumbers4mediumtomatoes½cupSmokedOilDressing(page210)

Bringapotofwatertoaboilinapanonastoveindoors.(Ittakesalongtimetobringthismuchwatertoaboilonthegrill;unlessyou’reattheshoreandnotnear a stove, heat thewater indoors.) Pick up the crab by its two hind legs.Holdthemtogetherfirmlyandstrokethetopofthecrab’sheadjustbehindthemouthuntilthecrabgoesquiet.Lowerthecrabintothepotslowlysoyoudon’tsplashyourself.Decreasetheheattomedium-low(adjusttheheattokeepthewateratasimmer)andcookuntilthecrabsturnpink,about10minutes.Withtongs,takethecrabsfromthepotandletthemcoolontheirbacksonaplate.

Turnagasgrilltohighorignitecharcoal.Whilethegrillheats,coateachcrabwitholiveoil, frontandback.Whenthegrill ishot,cleanyourgrill rack.Fora

gasgrill,decreasethetemperaturetomedium-high,andbrushorwipealittleoliveoilonthegrillrack.Grill the crabs for about 3 minutes; turn them over and grill another 3

minutes.Takethecrabsoffthefireandletthemcool.Cleanthecrabsbygraspingthe

legsandtwistingthemoffthebody.Crackthemlightlyinseveralplaceswithanutcracker.Pulltheshellapartwhereitattachestothebackofthecrab.Holdthebodywiththebacksideupandputyourrightthumbinthejointbetweentheupperandlowershellonthesideoppositethemouth.Yourpalmwillthenbestretchedacross the topof the shell.Hold thebottomof thecrab in youropposite hand. Force your thumb in andpull up andback to your right. Theshellwillsnapoff.Removethelungsandreproductiveorgansbeforemarinating.

FORTHEMARINADE:Cut the lemon into slicesabout⅛ inch thick.Discard theseeds,puttheslicesinabowl,andaddtheoliveoil,tarragon,andparsley.Withthe back of a heavy knife, crack the peppercorns and add them to themarinade.Pourthemarinadeoverthegrilledcrabsandrefrigerateforatleast30minutesoruntilreadytoserve.

FORTHESALAD:Whilethecrabsarechilling,peel,seed,andslicethecucumbersandquarterthetomatoes.TosstogetherthecucumbersandtomatoeswiththeSmokedOilDressingoranyvinaigretteyoulike.Youcanrefrigeratethesaladuntilyou’rereadytoservethecrab.

Servecrabsandsaladwellchilled.

FRESHCRAB

Crabbing doesn’t require anyone to be a fisherman. In fact, inmyfamily thetwelve-year-oldswereprettymuch inchargeof thecraboperation.TheentireextendedfamilymetupontheOregonCoastevery year to visit Aunt Rose, Uncle Dick, and their nine children.We’d set crab traps and then go clamming, stomping on the sandanddiggingfuriouslywhenaclamshotupajetofwater.Everyhalfhourorso,oneofmycousinswouldpophisheadup

likeaprairiedogandstartracingforthecrabtraps,andthenallofuswouldrun,totingourclambuckets,withwatersloshing,becausewedidn’twanttoleavethebucketsbehindandhavesomeonetakeourclams.Thefirstcousintothepierwouldyankupthetrapropeasfastashis(orher)skinnyarmscouldpull.Iftherewerecrabsinthetrap,you’d turn them out onto the pier to measure them; meanwhile,they’rescuttling toward freedomanddroppingoff thepier into thewaterwhile you’re scuttlingalong thepier in a lowcrouchchasingthem.By this time, the aunts and uncles have come up to see what

we’ve caught and the Italians have taken over the pier. We’dmeasure and they’d all be too small except for one crab—the restwouldgobackintothewater.Thetrapswerebaitedandtossedbackinandthatonebig-enoughcrabwentintoabucketofseawater.Forme,attenyearsold,inthemiddleofaherdofcousins,feeling

thesunhotonmyshouldersasIracedtothetrapsandthenleaningover the frigidOregonwater to pull up the rope—thismade crabstasteall thatmuch sweeterwhenwe finallyhadenoughgood-size

onestoeat.Don’tmissoutonthissimplepleasure.Crabsthatyou’vecaught

yourselfwaitinginabucketofseawateruntilyou’rereadytocook—thisbelongsoneverybody’sbucketlist.

FIDEAUWITHVERMICELLI,GRILLEDSHRIMP,CHICKEN,ANDCALAMARIServes8

THISISWHATCOOKINGAROUNDAFIREISALLABOUT.

From theValencia region of Spain, fideau is like a paella,with thesamecombinationofseafood,chicken,andspices.Insteadofrice,afideau calls for broken bits of uncooked vermicelli pasta. You’llneedapaellapanforthisdish,17to21incheswide.Youcanrestitrighton topof the charcoal in yourgrill or in a firepit. This recipedoesn’t translate well to a gas grill; having the pan resting on hotcoals works a certain magic that propane can’t duplicate. Yourguests gather round while you toast the broken pasta in olive oil,adding spices, chicken broth, tomato sauce, and wine, and thenfinally the chicken, shrimp, andcalamari (that you’vegivenaquickgrillbeforehand).Thistakesabout60minutesfromstarttofinishbutit’sa relaxedhour.All thewhile, the fragrancekeepsgettingbetterandbetterandthepeoplesittingaroundthefiregetmoreandmoreeagertohaveataste.Thisiswhatcookingaroundafireisallabout. One piece of advice if you’remaking a fideau for the first time:whenyoupourinstockafterthefirstpour,addjustalittleatatimeand let itcookawaybeforeyouaddmore, justasyouwouldwhenmaking risotto (although with fideau, you don’t stir after a certainpoint). Ilikeaspicyfideau;ifyouwantamilderversion,justhalvetheamountofredpepperflakesandchilipowder. Andpleaseletyourguestshelpyoubreakthepastainto1-inchpieces.Thepiecesdon’t need to be even and, especially if there are kids around,breakinguncookedspaghettiisjustplainfun.

½looselypackedteaspoonsaffronthreads(about20threads)2½cupsdrywhitewine6chickenthighs,skinlefton¼cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreforcoatingthechickenandseafood

2teaspoonscoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt,plusmorefor

seasoningthechickenandseafood½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper,plusmoreforseasoningthechickenandseafood

1poundshrimp(12to16shrimp)1poundcalamari,tubesandtentacles,cleaned(askyourfishmongertocleanitforyou)

1largeyellowonion,cutintomediumdice1heapingtablespoonmincedgarlic(about3cloves)1pounduncookedvermicelliorspaghetti,brokeninto1-inchpieces6cupsChickenBroth(page217),fishstock,orstore-boughtstock,plus¼cupmoreattheendifneeded

2½cupsGrilledTomatoSauce(page215,orsubstitutetomatoPassata,page213),plus¼cupmoreattheendifneeded

1teaspoongroundcumin2teaspoonsPimentóndelaVera(sweet,smokySpanishpaprika)1teaspoondriedoregano(or½teaspoonmincedfreshoregano)½teaspoonredpepperflakes½teaspoonchilipowder1heapingtablespoonfinelychoppedfreshflat-leafparsley

Placethesaffronthreads inasmallbowlandpourthewhitewineoverthem.Setaside.Youcangrill thechickenandseafoodoveracharcoal fireorovera fire in

yourfirepit.Ignitecharcoalorstartafireinafirepit(seepage42).Spreadoutthecharcoalwhen it’s readyandput the rack inplaceon thegrill.When therackishot,cleanitandbrushorwipealittleoilontherack.Rubthechickenthighswithalittleoliveoilallthewayaroundandplaceon

the grill skin-side down. While they’re on the grill, season with about 1teaspoonofseasaltand¼teaspoonofblackpepper.Grillforabout4minutes,thenturnthethighsoverandgrillforanother4minutes.Youwantthechickentobe justshortofdone—notwhiteall theway throughbuta littlepink in thecentersoitfinishescookinginthepaellapan.Whilethechickenisgrilling,rubtheshrimpandcalamaripieceswithalittleoliveoil.When the chicken is not quite done but has good grill marks—when an

instant-readthermometerinsertedinathighbutnottouchingthebonereads130°Fto140°F—takethechickenoffthegrillandsetitasideonaplatter.Putthe shrimp and calamari on the grill rack, and season with salt and pepper.

Again, you don’t want to cook these all the way through because you wantthemtoabsorbthesauceandspiceswhileinthepaellapan.Cooktheshrimpfor less than2minutesperside,and thecalamari just for1 to2minutesperside.Takethemoffthegrillandsetthemasidewiththechicken.Lifttherackoffthegrillandputit inasafespotwherenochildrencanget

closetoit. Ifcookingovercharcoal,addanother2to3poundsofcharcoaltothecharcoalalreadyburning.Youwantthefiretostayhottheentiretimethefideau iscooking.Give thecharcoalabout5minutes toburnand then restapaella pan right on the coals. It’s okay if a little of the charcoal shows someblackatthispoint.Whenthepaellapanishot,pourinthe¼cupoftheoliveoil.Whentheoilis

hot, add the diced onion and cook until the onion is soft, about 2 minutes,stirringoccasionally.Addthegarlicandletitcookfor30seconds,thenaddallthe broken pasta pieces. Toast the pasta in the pan until it’s just past lightbrown, stirring all the while, and then pour in the reserved saffron-winemixture. When almost all the wine has evaporated, pour in 2½ cups of thebroth. Cook until most of the broth has evaporated, about 5 minutes. Addanother cup of broth, and cook again until most of the liquid is gone. Addanothercup,letcookuntilalmostdry,andsoon,untilyou’veusedallthebroth,exceptforthelast¼cupofbroth,whichissetasideuntilthedishisfinished.Pour in 2 cups of the tomato sauce. Add the cumin, paprika, oregano, redpepper flakes, and chili powder. Add the 2 teaspoons salt and½ teaspoonblack pepper. Stir. Pour in another½ cup of the tomato sauce. Let it cookdowna littlebeforeaddingmore, justasyoudidwith thebroth. Ifyounoticeany hot spots—areas that are boilingmore vigorously—rotate the panon thecoals.Add thechickenandseafood to thepan;onceyouplace thechickenand

seafoodontopthepasta,youwon’tstiranymore.Forabetter-lookingfinishedfideau, arrange the chicken thighs, shrimp, and calamari this way: Add thechicken to thepan inanevencircleabouthalfway from theedgeof thepanwiththegrillmarksfacingup.Addthecookedshrimpinacirclealittleclosertothe centerof thepanwith all the tails pointing in the samedirection.Finally,addthecalamaritotheverycenter.Atthispointyouaredonestirring.You’rejust waiting and sipping some wine while the pasta, chicken, and seafoodabsorballtheflavors.It’sdonewhenthepanisjustaboutdry,butdon’twaitsolongthatthepasta

burns.Justaswithpaella,youwantalittlecrustonthebottomofthepan.Ifthe

noodles seem too dry at this point, pour in the remaining¼ cup of tomatosauceand¼cupbroth,butonlyaddtheseifthepastaseemsdryandthepanisn’ttoofull.Takethepanoff thefire,andsprinkleparsley. Itwillcontinuecookingand

absorbingthejuicesbutshouldbereadybythetimeyoucoaxeveryonetothetable.Placethefideauatthecenterofabigtable,gatherpeopleyoureallyliketojoinyou,andserve.

LEMON-GARLICCHICKENWITHTAPENADECOOKEDUNDERABRICK

Serves4

I predict thiswill become a regular part of your repertoire. It’s theperfectweeknightmealtocookatthegrillbecauseitdoesn’trequiremuch timeoreffort, and the lemons,blackolives, andgarlic cometogether to make this chicken a standout. Whether cooked in awood-firedovenoroveragrill,cookingthebirdunderaweight(inthisrecipe,abrickwrappedinfoil)keepsitmoistandflavorful.You’llneedtoremovethebackboneandthebreastbonefromeachbirdsoit lies flat during cooking. Save yourself some timeby asking yourbutchertodothisforyou. Marinatethebirdforatleast4hoursorovernight,andletthechickenwarmforatleast20minutesatroomtemperaturebeforegrilling.

KALAMATATAPENADE

2tablespoonspinenuts2cupspittedkalamataolives2teaspoonschoppedfreshflat-leafparsley¼teaspoonmincedfreshrosemary1garlicclove,chopped¼teaspoongratedlemonzest1teaspoonextra-virginoliveoil¼teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt⅛teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

LEMON-GARLICMARINADE

¼cupextra-virginoliveoil2tablespoonsgratedlemonzest(from2largelemons)⅓cupfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice2tablespoonsmincedgarlic(about6cloves)1tablespoonmincedfreshrosemary1teaspoonkoshersalt1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

Onechicken(4to5pounds)2teaspoonscoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt,plusmorefor

sprinkling2lemons,halved

FORTHETAPENADE:Toastthepinenutsinasmalldrysautépanonthestovetopover medium-low heat just until they begin to show color, 2 to 3 minutes.Immediatelytransferthemtoaplatetocool.Inafoodprocessor,blendtheolives,parsley,rosemary,garlic, lemonzest,

oliveoil,salt,andpepper.Addthecooledpinenutsandprocessuntilsmooth.Youcanmakethisaheadifyoulike;storetightlycoveredinthefridgeforupto1week.

FOR THEMARINADE: In a small bowl, combine the olive oil, lemon zest, lemonjuice, garlic, rosemary, salt, and pepper. Stir well and set aside while youpreparethechicken.

Place thechickenonacuttingboard.Usingaboningknifeorpoultryshears,cutalongeithersideofthebackbone.Withyourfingers,liftthebackboneawayfromthebirdandsetitaside.Withaboningknifeoraparingknife,cutaroundthebreastboneallthewayaround,workingyourknifeundertheboneuntilyoucanpulltheboneoutofthebirdwithyourfingers.Wrapthebonestightlyandstore them in your freezer. Add them to the pot the next time you makechickenstock.Taking carenot to tear the skinof thebird, lift the skin bygently running

your hand between the skin and themeat. Place 1 tablespoon of tapenadeundertheskinofeachleg.Placeabout4teaspoonsoftapenadeundertheskinof each breast. Gently massage the tapenade under the skin to distributeevenly.Placethechickeninaceramicorglassdishjustlargeenoughtoholditflat.

Pour themarinade over the chicken, turning the bird to coatwithmarinade.Cover the dish with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours orovernight.Turnthechickentwoorthreetimeswhilemarinating.

Turnagasgrilltohighorignitecharcoal.Whenthegrillishot,cleanyourgrillrack. Decrease the temperature to medium-high, and brush or wipe a littleoliveoilonthegrillrack.Sprinkletheoutsideofthechickenwithabout1teaspoonsaltoneachside,

andplaceit,skin-sideup,onthegrill.Setacast-ironskilletontopofthebird,

andplacea foil-wrappedbrick in theskillet.Cook for10 to13minutes, thenremovetheskilletandthebrick,turnthebird,puttheskilletandbrickbackinplace,andcookforanother11to13minutes.Addthecutlemonstothegrill,cut-sidedown,duringthelastfewminutesofcooking.Thebird is donewhen it’s goldenbrownand crispon theoutside and an

instant-read thermometer registers 170°F when inserted in a thigh but nottouchingabone.Transferthechickentoacuttingboard,coverwithaluminumfoil, and allow it to rest for 5minutes.Cut in quarters, sprinklewith salt, andservewiththegrilledlemonhalvesforsqueezingoverthebird.

GRILLEDPASTAWITHGRILLEDMEATBALLS

Serves8asafirstcourse

This is an old-school pasta cooked a new-school way. Grilling thepasta makes it entirely new, adding a smoky flavor and theoccasional browned crunchy bit of pasta,which is delicious. FormyHarvestDinner, because Iwas cookingpasta for100people, Ivac-packed the meatballs the night before the party. I’ve giveninstructions for thismethod of cooking for those of youwho havevac-pack equipment; it’s a greatway to cook for a crowd. Don’tworryifyoudon’thavesous-videequipmentoravac-packer;we’vealso included steps for cooking meatballs the usual way. Thisrecipemakesa lotofmeatballs.Youcanhalve it ifyou like; Inevermindhavingsomemeatballsinmyfridgethenextday.

2poundsgroundsirloin2eggs4tablespoonsfreshlygratedParmesancheese4tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshflat-leafparsley2teaspoonsdriedoregano1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshbasilleaves2cupsfinelychoppedyellowonion2cupsfinelygrounddriedbreadcrumbs2largegarliccloves,minced2teaspoonscoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2cupswater,plusmoreifneeded5tablespoonskoshersalt1pounddriedspaghetti4tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil2cupsGrilledTomatoSauce(page215)4tablespoonsgratedpecorinocheese

Ina largebowl,mix together themeat,eggs, cheese,parsley,oregano,basil,onion,breadcrumbs,andgarlic,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Add1cupofthewater.Kneadthewaterintothemeatmixturewithyourhands.Kneadand

form meatballs into about 1½-inch balls with a 2-ounce scoop (see Chef’sNote)orrollintoballswithyourhands.

VAC-PACKEDCOOKINGMETHOD:Seal themeatballswith justa teaspoonofextra-virginoliveoilandcookthemin130°Fwaterfor35minutes.

OLD-WORLDCOOKINGMETHOD:Place themeatballs ina largesaucepanorskilletonthestove(use2pansiftheydon’tallfit inasinglepan),add½cupofthewateroverthem(½cupwatertoeachpanifusing2pans),andcover.Steamthemeatballsovermediumheatforabout25minutes.Transfertoaplatterandrefrigerateuntilyou’rereadytogrillthem.Turnagasgrilltohighorignitecharcoal.Whenthegrillishot,forbothgas

andcharcoalgrills,cleanyourgrillrack.Decreasethetemperaturetomedium-high(onagasgrillonly),andbrushorwipealittleoliveoilonthegrillrack.Inbatches,grillthemeatballsinacast-ironpanorplanchaonthegrilluntil

they’rewell-browned all theway around, 4minutes total for the vac-packedmeatballs and about 6minutes total for the pan-cookedmeatballs. Removefromtheheatandreserve.

Fillalargepotwithabout5quartsofwater,addthekoshersalt,andbringtoaboiloverhighheatonyourstove.Addthepastaandcookuntiljustaldente,6to8minutes.Drainthepasta,reserving1cupofthepastawater.Spread thepastaonabaking sheet anddrizzlewith2 tablespoonsof the

oliveoil,soitwon’tsticktogether.Lightlyoilalong,flatgrillbasketorspritzwithnonstickcookingspray.With

tongs,addhalfthepastatothebasket,arrangingitinathinevenlayer.(Ifyouhavetwogrillbaskets,cookbothbatchesofpastaatonce.)Placethebasketonarackoverhotcoalsandturnfrequently,until thepastaturnsagoldencolor.You’llhearitcracklingduringgrilling.Emptythegrillbasketintoalargeheat-proofbowl.Tossthepastawith1to

2cupsofGrilledTomatoSauce. If itneedssomemoisture,add¼cupofthereservedpastawaterandtossagain.Addtheremaining2tablespoonsoliveoil,and2tablespoonsofthepecorinocheese.Toss.Transfertoaservingbowl,topwiththeremainingpecorinocheese,andserveimmediately.

CHEF’SNOTE:It’ssomuchfastertomakeameatballwithascoopthanwithyourhands. Scoops make such quick work of certain tasks—shaping meatballs,

gougères,orcookiedough,forexample—thatIkeepavarietyofscoopsizesathomeaswellasatwork.Ifyoudon’thavea2-ouncescoopforthemeatballs,try using a ¼-cup measure instead. You’ll find scoops in most restaurant-supplystoresorcookwarestores.

GRILLEDLEMON-SAFFRONPOUNDCAKEWITHLAVENDERANDFRESHBERRIES

Serves8to10

I loveadessert that isn’t toosweet; thispoundcake is just right. Itgets its golden color from lemon and saffron, which adds a deep,almostsavoryflavornotethatIreallylike.It’sbakedintheoven;afterbaking, slice the cake and then finish the slices on the grill untilthey’retoasted.Thisisidealwithfreshsummerberriesorgrilledfigswithlocallavenderhoneyinthefall.Becauseyou’regoingtogrillthecake slices, you canmake it the day before if you like. I gatherlavender flowers frommy backyard for this dessert (yes, I have ahistoryofrunningoutsidetogatherflowersformycooking).Ifyourlavenderdoesn’tcomefromyourownyard,besurethepersonwhogrewitdidn’tuseharmfulsprays.

4½tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice1looselypackedtablespoonsaffronthreads1teaspoonlavender(flowersonly),plusextraforgarnish1cupplus1tablespoonsugar½cup(1stick)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature4teaspoonsgratedlemonzest2eggs,atroomtemperature1½teaspoonspurevanillaextract1½cupsall-purposeflour¼teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt¼teaspoonbakingpowder¼teaspoonbakingsoda½cupbuttermilkOliveoilforbrushing1pintblackberriesor1pintofanysweetsummerberry

Inasmallsaucepanovermediumheat,combine3 tablespoonsof the lemonjuicewiththesaffronandlavender.Bringtoasimmer,takeitofftheheat,andletthejuiceinfusewithflavor.Setaside.Preheat theoven to350°F.Butter the insideof a9-by-5-inch loaf panor

spray with nonstick cooking spray. Line the pan bottom with a strip of

parchmentpaperthatextendsupandslightlybeyondthetwonarrowendsofthepan. (You’ll use the longendsof thispaper to lift the loafoutof thepanafterbaking.)Lightlybuttertheparchmentpaperorcoatwithanonstickspray.Pourthe1tablespoonofsugarintothepan,andtiltthepansothesugarcoatsthesidesandbottom.Dumpoutanyexcesssugarandsetthepanaside.In a standmixer fitted with the paddle attachment or with a handmixer,

creamtogetherthebutter, lemonzest,andremaining1cupofsugaruntilthemixtureisfluffyandmuchlighterincolor.Addtheeggsoneatatime,beatingfor30secondsaftereachadditionandscrapingthesidesofthebowl.Addthevanillaandbeatfor10seconds.In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, baking powder, and baking

soda.With themixer on low, gradually add the dry ingredients to the batter.Beatforanother30secondsafterthelastofthedryingredientsgoin.With themixeron low,add the remaining1½tablespoonsof lemon juice,

thesaffron-lavender-juicemixture,andthebuttermilk.Mixfor1minute.Pourthebatterintothepreparedpan.Bakeuntilthecakeisgolden-brown

on top, about 45minutes. Let the cake cool in the pan.When it’s cool andyou’rereadytogrillit,liftitoutbytheparchmentpaperhandles,andcarefullycutlengthwiseinto3equalslabsofcake,asshowninthephoto.Ideallyyou’dbeusingthetailendofafireyou’dbuiltforthemaincourse.If

not,ignitecharcoalorturnagasgrilltomedium.Brushthegrillrackwitholiveoil and brush the cake slices lightly with olive oil on both sides. Grillapproximately 2 minutes on the first side and 1½minutes on second side.(Note:Grillmarksarenicebutdon’tmakethemyourgoal;it’smoreimportantthatthecakeslicesbeslightlytoastedandnottoodark.)Serveeachslicewithberriesandfreshlavenderflowersifavailable.

BIGBURGERBASH

This is an over-the-top burger party with threerecipesforregular-sizeburgers,eachmadewithadifferentkindofmeat,andonerecipeforagigantebeef burger because what’s a big burger bashwithout a big burger? If you’re cooking for asmallergroup,makejustoneortwooftheburgerrecipesinthissection.Thisisnotatableclothkindofparty.Ibringthe

tablesoutsideandcoverthemwithbutcherpaper.If you run out of platters just pile the slicedtomatoes and crisp lettuce leaves right on thepaper.

MENU

Three-PoundBeefBurgerforSixonCountryBread

GrilledBingCherry–WhiteBalsamicSauce

BlueCheese–StuffedBeefBurgerswithZin-OnionMarmalade

MontereyJack–StuffedTurkeyBurgerswithGrilledAvocado-MangoGuacamole

LambBurgerswithEmber-RoastedOnionPuréeandGrilledPeach-NectarineMostarda

SmokyPaprikaBBQPotatoChips

SmokedOliveOil–ManchegoPotatoChips

RoastedPotatoSaladwithRoastedGarlicDressing

SimpleLime-CilantroSlaw

TheCondimentBar:PicklesallaPresto,BocceCourtMustard,SmokedHomemadeTomatoKetchup,GriddledOnions

RoastedStrawberryLemonadewithHerbSyrups

SHAPINGBURGERS

Youwantburgers tobe tender,and thatmeansnotoverhandling themeat.Here’showIshapeburgers:Ilightlypressthegroundmeatintoaform—a4½-inch-diameterramekinforstandard-sizeburgersanda9-inch-diameter cake tin for the big burger. If you don’t have the rightramekins, use the lid from awide-mouth canning jar or even the lidfromalargejarofpeanutbutter.Forburgersofeithersize, line thecontainerwithplasticwrap,and

useyourfingerstogentlypressthegroundmeatintoshape,usingtheformasamold.Lift theplasticwraptopull theshapedburgeroutof

themold(invertthenormal-sizeburgersonabakingsheetuntilyou’rereadytogrill;followdirectionsintherecipeonthispage.)

THREE-POUNDBEEFBURGERFORSIXONCOUNTRYBREAD

Serves6

SeetheBigBurgerfollowingthisrecipe.Here’safact: turningthebigburgerwithoutitbreakingisafeat.Here’samoreimportantfact:it’snotthatbigofadeal if it breaks.Youcanarrange it on the loaf of breadafter cookingand itwon’t matter all that much if it’s one piece or in several pieces. It’s a

showstoppereitherway.Iusetwopizzapeels(oneabove,onebelowthepatty)toturntheburger.If

youdon’thavepeels,use largespatulas.Aquickwipeofoliveoilorspritzofnonstickcookingsprayonthepeelsorthespatulascan’thurt.This burger ismessy in the best possibleway. Eat chunks of it with your

fingers,dipthebreadintothecherrysauce,andenjoyeverybite.

3½poundsgroundbeef(seeAGreatBurgerBeginswiththeMeat)1½teaspoonscoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper6ouncessoft,freshgoatcheese(suchasLauraChenel),atroomtemperature

One16-ounceroundloafcountrybreadGrilledBingCherry–WhiteBalsamicSauce(following)

Turnagasgrilltohighorignitecharcoal.Whenthegrillishot,forbothgasandcharcoalgrills,cleanyourgrillrack.Decreasethetemperaturetomedium-high(onagasgrillonly),andbrushorwipealittleoliveoilonthegrillrack.To shape the big burger, first divide the ground meat into two equal

portions. Line a 9-inch round cake tin with plastic wrap. Place one of theportions of the ground meat in the cake tin on top of the plastic wrap andgentlypushthemeatintothetin.Don’tpresstoohard.Placeanothersheetofplasticwraponaworksurfaceandinvertthetinsotheshapedpattypopsoutontotheplasticwrap.Linethecaketinagainwithplasticwrap.Formanotherbigburgerinthecaketinwiththeremainingportionofgroundbeefbutkeepitinthecaketinforthemoment.Sprinklethetopofeachpattywith½teaspoonofthesaltand⅛teaspoon

ofthepepper.Spoonthegoatcheeseontothepattynot inthetin.Spreadtocover themeat, but leaveabout½-inchmarginuncoveredaround theedge.Use the liningofplasticwrap to remove thepattystill in the tinoutof the tinandflipitontothecheese-coveredpatty(youwanttheseasonedsidesofthemeatfacingtogether,withthecheesesandwichedbetween).Lightlypressthe2pattiestogetherallaroundtheedge.Sprinklethetopoftheburgerwiththeremainingsaltandpepper.Wipeapizzapeelwithalittleoliveoilandthenusethepeeltotransferthe

burger to the grill. Close the grill lid and cook until the bottom of the pattyshowsgrillmarks,8to9minutes.Spritzalittlenonsticksprayonthetopofthe

burger,thenflipandcookforanother8to9minutes.Have a large platter waiting next to the grill. Gently transfer the cooked

burgertotheplatterandletitrestforatleast15minutes.Halvethebreadloafstraightacrosshorizontallysoitformsabun.Ifyoulike,

youcantoastbothhalveslightlyonthegrill.Transferthebeefontothebottomhalfof the loaf,spoononenoughof thecherrysauce tocover themeat,andclosetheburgerwiththetophalfofthebread.Slicetheburgerinto6wedges(asifyouwerecuttingapie)andserve.

YOUWANTBURGERSTOBETENDER,ANDTHATMEANSNOTOVERHANDLINGTHEMEAT.

GRILLEDBINGCHERRY-WHITEBALSAMICSAUCE

Makesabout2cups

Summer fruit,whengivenaquick turnon thegrill, gets a smoky, sultry tangthatworkswellwiththegoatcheeseinsidethebigburger.Thisalsoworkswellasatoppingforaturkeyburger(seepage70),oragrilledporkchoporporkloin.Dark redBing cherries are beautiful in this sauce but you can also use a

combinationofcherrieswithapricots,peaches,oranystonefruit. I liketogrillcherriesandthenpitthem;youloselessjuicethatway.Forstonefruit,cutthefruit inhalf, removethepit,givethefruita lightrubofoliveoilonbothsides,andthengrillfor2minutesoneachside.Useafine-meshgrillbaskettoholdthecherriesoverthefire(anall-metal

strainerwillwork inapinch),anddon’tcookthemfor longer than4minutes.Youwantthembrightandsmoky,notcharred.

2cupswholeBingcherries,stemmed2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter2tablespoonsfinelychoppedshallots2tablespoonsbrownsugar6tablespoonswhitebalsamicvinegar¼teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt

Pinchoffreshlygroundblackpepper

Pourthecherries intoagrillbasket,andplacethebasketoveramedium-hotgas grill or a charcoal grill in which the coals glow red under gray ash.(Alternatively,grill thecherries inahotgrillpanoverhighheatonthestove.)Give the basket a good shake every 20 to 30 seconds, so the cherries heatthrough.After3minutes, tasteacherry tosee if it’ssmokyenough.Don’t letthem cook longer than 4 minutes. Take the basket off the heat and let thecherriescoolforatleast5minutes.Halve the cherries over a bowl, reserving all the cherry juice you can.

Discardthepits.Inalargesaucepanorskillet,eitheronthegrillorinsideatthestove, melt the butter over medium-high heat. When the butter is donefoaming,addtheshallotsandstir.Cookuntiltheshallotsbegintoshowsomecolor,about2minutes.Addthebrownsugarandthevinegar,andstir.Addthecherries to the pan with any reserved juice. Cook until just slightly syrupy,about3minutes.Addthesaltandpepper,taste,andaddmoreseasoningifyoulike.Thissaucecanbestoredinthefridge,tightlycovered,for3to4days.

AGREATBURGERBEGINGSWITHTHEMEAT

You’ll never get a great burger from meat in a tube. Good burgerscome from freshly ground steaks with a good percentage of fat.There’snosuchthingasagreatsuper-leanburger.Asaruleofthumb,choosebeefwith20to25percentfatcontentforyourburgers.A freshgrind is just as important.Choose chuck steaks fromyour

butchersandaskthemtogrindthemeatwhileyouwait,thesamedayyouplantocooktheburgersifpossible.Evenyourlocalsupermarketbutcherwillbehappytodothisforyou.

GRILLMARKSAREN’TTHEGOAL

Don’t accept good grill marks as the sign of a perfect burger. Theperfect burger is juicy and tastes great, end of story. Don’t let thepursuitofgrillmarksdistractyoufromthegoal.

BLUECHEESE–STUFFEDBEEFBURGERSWITHZIN-ONIONMARMALADEServes6

SweetonionscookedinZinfandel—hardtotopthisasatoppingforaburger.Forall its rich, complex flavor, thismarmalade is fast andeasy tomake.Thecombination of blue cheese and Zin onions makes this one of my favoriteburgers.ServewithagoodZinfandel.(Duh.)

ZIN-ONIONMARMALADE

2mediumredonions¼cupextra-virginoliveoil½teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2teaspoonsfinelychoppedfreshthyme

2cupsZinfandel

3poundsgroundchuck(seeAGreatBurgerBeginswiththeMeat,page67)

¾cup(about6ounces)crumbledbluecheeseAbout1tablespooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysaltAbout1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper6sourdoughorsmalllevainrolls

FOR THEMARMALADE: Slice off the ends of the onions, halve the onions fromend toend, thenpeel them.Sliceeachhalf into thinhalf-moons.Youshouldhaveabout4cupsofslicedonions.Setaside.Heatalargesaucepanoverhighheat.Whenthepanishot,pourintheolive

oil.Whentheoilishot,addtheonions,salt,andpepper.Decreasetheheattomedium-high,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untiltheonionsarecaramelized,8to10minutes.Sprinkleinthethymeandcookfor1minutemore.PourintheZinfandel and cook until the sauce has reduced by about two-thirds, 4 to 5minutes.Takethepanofftheheatandletthemarmaladecoolwhileyoumaketheburgers.

Turnagasgrilltohighorignitecharcoal.Whenthegrillishot,forbothgasandcharcoalgrills,cleanyourgrillrack.Decreasethetemperaturetomedium-high(onagasgrillonly),andbrushorwipealittleoliveoilonthegrillrack.

Shapethegroundbeefinto12thinpatties(seeShapingBurgers,page66).Oneachof6of thepatties,spoon2 tablespoonsofbluecheese, leaving½-inchmargin free of cheese all theway around. Coverwith the remaining patties.Lightly,lightlypresstheedgesofeachburgertogetherwhilekeepingitsshape.Seasonbothsidesofeachburgerwithsaltandpepper.Placetheburgersonthehotgrillandclosethelid.After5to6minutes,flip

the burgers, close the lid, and cook for another 4minutes for medium-rareburgers,another6minutesformediumburgers.To serve, place each patty on a roll and top with a few spoonfuls of the

marmalade.

CHEF’SNOTE:YoucanfreezetheZin-OnionMarmalade,whichmakesitagreatway to use leftover wine the day after a party. Store the marmalade in an

airtightcontainerinyourfreezerforupto1month.

WHYISTHECHEESEINSIDETHEBURGER?

Cheeseontheoutsideofaburgeristricky.Thecheesecangettoowelldone while the burger’s not quite ready. It can slide off the burger.Evenworse,whentheburgerhasbeenofftheheatforafewminutes,thecheesecangeta littleweird—rubbery,crusty, saggy,or justplainold and tired-looking. That doesn’t work forme, so I put the cheeseinsidetheburger.Aslongastheburgeriswarm,thecheeseinsidetheburgerisalwaysattherighttemperatureandtexture.Delicious!

MONTEREYJACK–STUFFEDTURKEYBURGERSWITHGRILLEDAVOCADO-MANGOGUACAMOLE

Serves6

Groundturkeydoesn’thavethefatofgroundbeeforporksochoosetoppings—such as guacamole—that bring in some fat and complement the turkey’slighter texture.Themild flavorof Jackcheese lets theguacamoleand turkeyhaveasay.

GrilledAvocado-MangoGuacamole(page43)

3poundsgroundturkey¾cupgratedMontereyJackcheeseAbout1tablespooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysaltAbout½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper6sourdoughorlevainrolls

Maketheguacamoleandhave itchillingbeforeyoustart theburgers.Turnagas grill to high or ignite charcoal. When the grill is hot, for both gas andcharcoalgrills,cleanyourgrillrack.Decreasethetemperaturetomedium-high(onagasgrillonly),andbrushorwipealittleoliveoilonthegrillrack.Shape the ground turkey into 12 thin patties (seeShapingBurgers, page

66).On6of thepatties,spoon2 tablespoonsofgratedcheese, leavinga½-inch margin free of cheese all the way around. Cover with the remainingpatties.Lightly, lightlypresstheedgesofeachburgertogetherwhilekeepingitsshape.Seasonbothsidesofeachburgerwithsaltandpepper.Place the burgers on the medium-high grill and close the lid. After 6

minutesfliptheburgers,closethelid,andcooktheburgersforanother4to5minutes.Ifyoulike,sliceyourbunsinhalf,andgrillthemcut-sidedownonthegrillfortheburgers’final1to2minutes.Toserve,placeeachturkeyburgeronarollandtopwithafewspoonfulsof

theguacamole.

LAMBBURGERSWITHEMBER-ROASTEDONIONPURÉEANDGRILLEDPEACH-NECTARINEMOSTARDA

Serves6

A purée made from onions that have been slow-roasted in the coals addsincredible sweet, rich flavor to lambburgers.Seepage186 for twodifferentwaysofroastingonionsforthispurée.For the final touch, I love the sweet-hot mustard flavor of a good fruity

mostarda, a condiment that many Italians (including me) make in largebatches.Ifyoudon’thavemostardaonyourpantryshelf,andtimeisshort,youcantoptheselambburgerswiththequick-to-makeGrilledBingCherry–WhiteBalsamicSauce(page67).

GrilledPeach-NectarineMostarda(page132)

3poundsgroundlamb6tablespoonsEmber-RoastedOnionPurée(page186)About1tablespooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysaltAbout½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper6sourdoughorlevainrolls

Turnagasgrilltohighorignitecharcoal.Whenthegrillishot,forbothgasandcharcoalgrills,cleanyourgrillrack.Decreasethetemperaturetomedium-high(onagasgrillonly),andbrushorwipealittleoliveoilonthegrillrack.Divide the ground lamb into 6 equal balls.Mix 1 tablespoon of the onion

purée intoeachof theballs.Form6patties (seeShapingBurgers,page66).Seasonbothsidesofeachpattywithsaltandpepper.Placetheburgersonthehotgrill,andclosethelid.After5to6minutes,flip

theburgers,closethelid,andcookforanother3to4minutes.Ifyoulike,slicetherollsinhalf,andplacethemcut-sidedownonthegrillfortheburgers’final1to2minutes.Toserve,placeeachlambburgeronarollandtopwithafewspoonfulsof

themostardaorthecherrysauceonpage67.

SMOKYPAPRIKABBQPOTATOCHIPS

Serves8

Yes, homemadepotato chips are great but if youdon’t feel like deep-frying,insteadtryspicingupafewbagsofregularstore-boughtchips.Thequalityofthespice is themost important thing,somakesureyourpaprika is freshandintenselyfragrant.IliketousetheverysmokySpanishpaprikacalledPimentóndelaVera.I’mnotsurehow itdoes this,butascorbicorcitricacid (anothername for

vitaminC),workstokeepthespiceflavorsbright.Youcanfindascorbicacidinmosthealth-foodstores.Foronlinesourcesforfreshspicesandascorbicacid,seeResources(page

218).

Two10-ouncebagshigh-qualitypotatochips(suchasKettleChips)2tablespoonsPimentóndelaVera1tablespoonplus½teaspoongarlicpowder

1½teaspoonsturbinadosugar½tablespooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt¼teaspoonascorbicacid

Preheat the oven to 300°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.Place the chips on the baking sheets, and bake until hot, about 5 minutes.Whenyoucansmellthechips,takethemoutoftheoven.While thechipsarebaking, inasmallbowlmix thepaprika,garlicpowder,

sugar,salt,andascorbicacid.Assoonasyoupull thechipsfromtheoven,pour intoabowlofftheheat,

then pour the spicemix into a sieve and sprinkle over the hot chips.With aspatula,carefullytossthechipstocoattheminspice,beingcarefulnottobreakthem.Servethechipswarmorletthemcoolbeforeserving.

SMOKEDOLIVEOIL–MANCHEGOPOTATO

CHIPS

Serves8

Forthethinpotatoslicesneededforgreatchips,youneedamandoline.Evenifyouhaveverygoodknifeskills,it’stime-consumingtodothetaskwithaknife.AninexpensiveJapanesemandolinedoesafinejob.Youcansmokeyourownoliveoil(seepage210)orbuyit(seeResources,

page218).SmokedoliveoilhasaboldflavorthatIlove,butyoucanuseotherflavoredoilswiththesechips.Forwhitetruffleoil,use1½tablespoonsinsteadof2tablespoons.

6largeIdahopotatoes(about1½pounds),cleanedbutwithpeellefton

Peanutoil,forfrying2tablespoonsSmokedOliveOil(page210)or1½tablespoonstruffleoil

½cupgrateddryManchegocheese2teaspoonscoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

Withamandoline,shavethepotatoesintopaper-thinslices.Soaktheslicesincoldwaterfor30minutes.Whilethepotatoessoak,fillalargepotwith4inchesofpeanutoil.Turnthe

heattohigh,andlettheoilheat.Lineabakingsheetwithpapertowels.After 30 minutes, drain the potatoes and pat the slices dry with paper

towels.When the oil registers 375°F on a deep-fat thermometer, add the potato

slices,ahandfulatatime.Cookuntilthepotatoesturngoldenandcrisp,2to3minutes.Withafrybasketorslottedspoon,transferthepotatoestothetowel-linedbakingsheet,andaddanotherhandfulofpotatoestothehotoil.Continueuntilallthepotatoslicesaredeep-fried.Sprinklethecookedpotatoeswithhalfofthesmokedoil,cheese,salt,and

pepper, gently toss, and then sprinkle on the remaining oil, cheese, andseasonings.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.

ROASTEDPOTATOSALADWITHROASTEDGARLICDRESSING

Serves6

Grilling adds flavor to familiar dishes; when you grill the potatoes, greenonions, andgarlic for this pretty potato salad, the flavor ismuchbolder thanyourstandardpotatosaladthatcomestothepicnicwearingTupperware.Youcancookthesepotatoeslotsofways:onthegrill,wrappedinfoilinthe

coals,andevenroastedintheoven,butwhateverthemethod,besureyouboilthemfirstinsaltwatersoyougetsaltflavorinsidethepotato.

It’sbesttomaketheRoastedGarlicDressing(page212)adayortwoaheadifyoucan.

5tablespoonskoshersalt2poundsmediumredpotatoes,peellefton½cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreifneeded1mediumredonion2tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice6wholegreenonions2cupsfinelyslicedcelery(about1wholehead;shaveonamandolineorsliceverythinly)

1tablespoonmincedfreshtarragon2tablespoonsRoastedGarlicDressing(page212)Coarseseasalt,preferablygraysaltFreshlygroundblackpepper

Filla largepotwith4 to5quartsofwaterandbring toaboiloverhighheat.Addthekoshersalt tothewater.Whilethewaterheats,quarterthepotatoes,fromendtoend.Whenthewaterisboiling,addthepotatoes,decreasetheheattomedium,

and simmer until tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain the potatoes, and spreadthem out on a baking sheet so the steam evaporates. Taste them forseasoning,andaddmorekoshersaltiftheyneedit.Tossthepotatoeswith½cupoftheoliveoilandsetaside.Turnagasgrilltohighorignitecharcoal.Whenthegrillishot,forbothgas

andcharcoalgrills,cleanyourgrillrack.Decreasethetemperaturetomedium-high(onagasgrillonly),andbrushorwipealittleoliveoilonthegrillrack.Trim the ends from the red onion, halve the onion fromend to end, then

peel.Sliceeachhalf into thinhalf-moons;placetheonionslices inamediumbowlandpour the lemon juiceover them.Toss theslices in the lemon juice,andsetaside.Whenthegrillishot,placetheoiledpotatoesontherack.(Youcanputthem

inagrillbasketifyoulike.)Grill,turningevery2minutes,untilthepotatoesaretender insideandgoldenbrownall thewayaround,15 to17minutes.Whenthepotatoesaredone,takethemoffthegrillandsetaside.Drizzlethegreenonionswithalittleoliveoilandsprinklewithseasaltand

pepper.Grill for 1minute, turn, and grill for 1moreminute. Take the greenonionsoffthegrill,letthemcool,andthensliceonthediagonal.Setaside.Whenthepotatoeshavecooledslightly,cutthemintobite-sizechunks.Gently toss the potatoes, red onions, green onions, celery, tarragon, and

RoastedGarlicDressing.Taste,andseasonwithseasaltandpepper,ifneeded.Serveatroomtemperatureorchilled.Becausethere’snomayointhis,itwill

keepinthefridgefor3to4days,andtravelswellforpicnics.

SIMPLELIME-CILANTROSLAW

Serves6

Limeand choppedcilantrobrightenup this simple slaw,which is crisp, cool,andeasytomake.It’sjustrightservedalongsideaburgerthat’shotoffthegrill.Mixup thedressingbeforehandbut tokeepthecabbagecrisp,don’tpour

onthedressinguntilyou’rejustabouttoserve.

6cupsthinlyslicedgreencabbage(about½largehead)¾cupcoarselychoppedfreshcilantro(seeChef’sNote)1teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

¼cupfreshlysqueezedlimejuice2tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedorangejuice3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoilplusmoreifneeded

Inalargebowl,tossthecabbageandcilantrowiththesaltandpepper.Inanotherbowlwhisktogetherthelimejuice,orangejuice,andtheoliveoil.Tosstheslawwiththedressingjustbeforeserving.Taste,andseeifyou’d

likemoreoilorcitrusjuice.

CHEF’SNOTE:Youdon’tneed topick the leavesoffcilantro for thissalad.Justsliceoffthetopofabunchofcilantroandchopit,stemsandall.

THECONDIMENTBAR

I lovehomemadecondimentsbut I understandwhenpeopleare reluctant toswitchouttheirfavoriteketchupormustard.Thenexttimeyouinvitefriendsoverforburgers,trythis:Askeachguestto

bring a favorite condiment. Set up a condiment station and watch as yourguests react.At first, just out of habit, they reach for a familiar plastic bottle.Then they take a second look at the crock of home-spiced mustard or thehomemade pickles from cucumbers picked fresh from the garden. You canstandbyandwatchasacondimentattitudeshifttakesplace.

PICKLESALLAPRESTOMakes5cups

Mymomand I used to fight over the pickle juice left in the jarwhen all thepicklesweregone;wewouldelboweachotheroutof theway to tryandwinthatfinaldipofaheelofbreadintothatvinegary,spicyjuice.IlovehomemadepicklesbutthesedaysI’dratherspendweekendswithmy

six-yearold son, andwithmy daughterswhen they come to visit.Alla prestomeans“assoonaspossible”andthesepicklesare.Forgetaboutcanningjars.You cook these in 9 minutes in your microwave, chill them overnight, andthey’re ready for theparty.And ifyou’resittingnext tome,don’t thinkyou’regoingtowinthatpicklejuicefinaldip.

2mediumcucumbers,peellefton1cupthinlyslicedyellowonion(abouthalfof1mediumonion)1cupthinlyslicedfennel½cupapplecidervinegar

¼cupsugar¼teaspoonredpepperflakes½teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt½teaspoonmustardseed¼teaspooncorianderseed½teaspoonceleryseed¼teaspoonwholecloves1teaspoongroundturmeric

Withthepeellefton,slicethecucumberintorounds,makingtheslicesasthickasyoulike.(Ilikethemverythin,butyoumightpreferthemalittlethicker.)Inamicrowave-safe bowl toss the cucumber slices with the onion and fennelslices,andsetaside.Inaseparatebowl,whisktogetherthevinegar,sugar,redpepperflakes,salt,

mustardseed,corianderseed,celeryseed,cloves,andturmeric.Pouroverthecucumbers, onion, and fennel. Cover the container with plastic wrap or amicrowave-safecover.Microwaveatfull-strengthfor4minutes.Takethebowloutofthemicrowave(careful,thecontentswillbehot),stir,andputthecoverorplasticwrapback inplace.Microwave foranadditional5minutes.Let thebowlcool inthemicrowave.Transferthepicklestoglassbowlsorjars,cover,and refrigerate overnight or for at least 4 hours. Thesewill keep for up to 3monthsinyourrefrigerator.

YOUDON’TREALLYTASTETHEPICKLEORTHEGARLICINTHISMUSTARD.IT’SJUSTTHEBRIGHTEST,FRESHESTMUSTARDAROUND.

BOCCECOURTMUSTARDMakes2cups

ChefMichaelLaukertandIweremakingConsorzioOilsbackinthe1990s,andweweretryingtofigureoutwhattomakewiththeroastedgarlicpasteleftoverfromabatchofroastedgarlicoil.Michaeldecidedtomakegarlicmustard.Hedidsomeresearchandfound

thattherearetwotypesofmustard:milledmustard,whichisgroundmustardseed,andpreparedmustardfrommustardpowder.This one is preparedmustard, and very easy tomake.Mustardpowder is

verymilduntilyouaddvinegar,whichkicksupitsspicyflavor.Laukerthadthebrilliantideaofusingpicklejuiceinsteadofplainvinegarwiththismustard.Don’tusefancy,highlyseasonedpicklejuice;choosethejuicefromahigh-

qualitybutplaindillpickle—most likelywhat’salready in the jar inyour fridgerightnow.

1teaspoonsuperfinemustardpowder(suchasColman’s)1tablespoonplus1teaspoonpicklejuice1tablespoonRoastedGarlicPaste(page212)½cupyellowmustard(suchasFrench’s)

Whisk the mustard powder, pickle juice, and garlic paste into the mustard.Serveorrefrigerateforupto3weeks.

CHEFDAD’SNOTE:Here’sagoodexperimenttodowithkids:Havethemputalittlemustardpowderontheirtongueandseehowmildittastes.Thenaddjusta few drops of pickle juice, and see how it changes flavor on your tongue.Mustardissweetuntilacidisadded.

SMOKEDHOMEMADETOMATOKETCHUPMakes3cups

This has much more flavor than a bottled ketchup. If you want a smokierketchup,addalittlemoresmokedoliveoil.Youcanalsouseasmokingguntoaddflavortoanyketchup.Seedirections

followingtherecipe.

½cupwhitebalsamicvinegar½cupsugar½teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepperplus2teaspoonsforonions¼teaspoongroundnutmeg¼teaspoongroundallspice1teaspoongroundcloves½teaspoonmustardpowder1½poundsvine-ripenedtomatoes½mediumyellowonion,peeledandslicedinto¼-inchrounds4tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

1tablespooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt1teaspoonRoastedGarlicPaste(page212)2to3tablespoonsSmokedOliveOil(page210)

Turnagasgrilltohighorignitecharcoal.Whenthegrillishot,forbothgasandcharcoalgrills,cleanyourgrillrack.Decreasethetemperaturetomedium-high(onagasgrillonly),andbrushorwipealittleoliveoilonthegrillrack.Inasmallpanonthestove,heatthevinegarjustuntilwarm.Addthesugar

and stir until dissolved. Add the salt, pepper, nutmeg, allspice, cloves, andmustard powder and take the pan off the heat. Set it aside to let the herbssteepinthewarmvinegar.Grillthetomatoesfollowingthestepsonpage215.Lightlydrizzletheonion

roundswitholiveoilandasprinkleofgraysalt.Grilluntiltheyshowdistinctgrillmarks,2to3minutesoneachside.Letthevegetablescool.Whencoolenoughtohandle,puréethetomatoesandonionsinablender.

PourthepuréeintoapotwiththeRoastedGarlicPaste.Strainthevinegar,andpourthe liquid intothepot.(Discardanyspices left inthestrainer.)Placethepotovermedium-highheat;assoonasyouseebubblesaround theedgeofthe pan, reduce the heat to low and let the mixture simmer for 20 to 30minutes.Letitcool,andthenstirintheSmokedOliveOil.

Seepage201 for how to use a smokinggun.Pour the ketchup into a largebakingdishorpot andcover the topwithplasticwrap.Turnon the smokinggunandrunthenozzleundertheplasticwrap.Addagoodlayerofsmoke,takeoutthenozzle,replacetheplasticwrapandlettheketchupabsorbthesmoke’sflavorforatleast15minutes.Storetheketchupinacoveredbowlinyourfridge.

MYDAUGHTERGIANAABSOLUTELYLOVESTHESE,ANDTHEY’VEBEENAMAINSTAYONHERBURGERS,STEAKS,ANDOMELETSFORMANYYEARS.

GRIDDLEDONIONS

Grilledonionsnevergetcookedenoughforme.Iprefertogriddlemyonions,preferably in a cast-iron pan or plancha onwhich I’ve just cooked steaks orburgers.Cuttheonionsasyouwouldforonionsoup:Sliceofftheendsoftheonions

and thenpeel them.Halve them lengthwise, end toend, thensliceeachhalfintothinhalf-moons.Tossthemwithafewteaspoonsofoliveoil,grayseasalt,groundblackpepper,andabayleaf.Whenthemeatcomesoffthefireandisresting,tosstheonionsintothehotpan.(Decreasetheheatifyou’recookingonagasgrilloruselongtongstospreadoutthecharcoalalittleifcookingonacharcoal grill.)Cook theonions, stirringoccasionally, until they’re completelycaramelized,10to12minutes.

AQUESTFORTHEPERFECTBURGER

In an era when the sesame seed bun and the sauce get a lot ofattention, Ibegyou tomake themeat theheroof yourburger.Myownquest for theperfectburgerbeganwhen ImetLeo Iacoppi inSanFranciscointheearly1980s.TraVignewasbeingbuiltwhenmy futurepartnersaskedme to

step intoFogCityDiner inSanFranciscotoworkalongsideoneofAmerica’sbestchefs,CindyPawlcyn. I’dgrownupwith Italian foodand been trained in classic French techniques but true Americancuisinewasnewtome.OnceIhadtastedFogCity’sstellarburgers,Imadeitmymission

to get to know the butcher who supplied the meat. Every weekbetween lunch and dinner service, I’dmake a pilgrimage to Leo’sshop inNorthBeach,hikingthetwohundredstepsoverTelegraphHill.Leoopenedmymindaboutwhataburgercouldbe—buthenever

revealedhissecrets.EverytimeI’dcomeupwithanewtheoryaboutwhatwentintohisburgermeatandI’dtellhimmythought,hewouldsmileandwinkbutneitherconfirmnordeny.Yearslater,theclosestIcan come toLeo’s formula is threepartsbeef toonepart pork fatwithalittleshortribmeatforaddedflavor.Leo’s burgers revealed howmuch care he took.He ground the

freshmeat while it was very cold so the pork fat stayed pristinelywhite.Leoconfirmedwhat Ialreadyknewfromthe Italianbutchersinmyfamily: that thebestburgerswent fromgrinder to flamewithlittlehandlinginbetween.

Because of Leo’s influence my burgers have gotten steadilybetterovertheyears.Ikeepinmindhisfeather-lightbutcher’stouchand something greater: the pride of amanwho sets the bar high,andthenkeepsworkingtomeethisownstandards.

CHAPTERTHREE

ROMANCINGTHEFIRE:THEHEARTH

Until just a few generations ago, the hearth—the fireplace–was a home’s lifeblood: You cooked there, washed there,shared stories by it, and stayed close forwarmth. Youmayhavea state-of-the-artkitchenbutyou’remissingout if youdon’tcookatthehearthonoccasion.Yourekindlethesparkofaromanceorbrightenafamilydinner ifyoucooknexttothehearth.There’saceremonytostartingandtendingafireinyourlivingroomthatisverypleasing.Turnthepageforafewgoodreasonswhythismethodofcookingisworthatry.Even if you choose not to cook in your fireplace (all of

theserecipescanalsobepreparedonanoutdoorgrill),carrytheplatesoverandsitinfrontofthefire.Asimplespreadofwine, cheese, and nuts is a romantic feast when you’relookingintoafire.YoucanbuyalltheoceantracksyouwantforyouriPod.Forme,nothingcomesclosetothesoundofafirewhenthelightsarelowandthepeopleyoulovemost intheworldarewithinarm’sreach.

ShrimpWrappedinProsciuttoClamsinaCataplanawithChicken-AppleSausagesandCrispySageSkeweredQuailwithGrapeSaladandCitrus-RosemarySaltLegofLambonaStringSalt-BakedPotatoeswithMascarponeandProsciuttoBitsRoastedStrawberrieswithPannaCotta

WHYICOOKINMYFIREPLACE

The hearth is the most romantic place to cook, no question. Iproposedtomywife,Eileen,overadinnerthatIcookedforher,justthe twoofussitting in frontof the fire. Butcooking in frontofahearthworks for familydinnersandcasualentertaining too,even ifyouhave just a small fireplace.All ofmy kids have loved sitting infrontofthefireduringdinner.I’lltellmysix-year-old,Aidan,tobringalogandhelpmestartafirefordinner,andhestaysrighttheretohelpmecook. Ineverhavetocallanyone inmyfamily to the tablewhen I’m cooking beside the hearth. I like how, after a hearthdinner, my youngest daughter, Giana, even as a teenager, wouldcomeoutofthebathwithherhairwrappedinatowelandsitquietlyby the fireuntil bedtime. I even love thewaymyhouse smells thenextmorningwhenwe’vehadafirethenightbefore.

BUILDINGACOOKINGFIREDon’tusecharcoalinyourfireplace.Useonlyhardwood,andcheckWoodstoNeverCookOver,page19, tobesureyou’reusingonlywoodthatworks forfood.Startafireinyourhearththesamewayyoubuildanyfire.Buildupaloose

pyramid structure of kindlingwith paper underneath (newspaper and brownpaper bags are both smart choices). Light the paper. When the kindling isburningwell,addlargerpiecesofkindling.Oncethelargekindlingignites,addsmalllogs.Youdon’twanttocookoveraroaringfire.Letitburnforatleast20minutes

oruntiltheflameshavedieddownandtheglowingwoodisprovidingasteadyheatsource.Don’twalkaway;youneedtositbythefiretokeepaneyeonit.Don’twastethemomentbutopenabottleofgoodwineandenjoytheflamesuntilit’stimetocook.Makethefireagoodsizetostart.Whenyouaddalogtoafire,itwillflame

whenit ignites—notoptimalforcooking.Justbuildagood-sizefire, let itburndown,andthencookwhilethetemperatureisstable.Ifyourfireisbigenough

atthebeginning,youwon’tneedtoaddmorewooduntilafteryou’refinishedcooking.

TIPSFORSAFECOOKINGINAFIREPLACEIfyourfireplaceissafeforaroaringfire,it’ssafeforfood,whichis cooked at a lower temperature than the fire’s hottest point.For more information about setting up your fireplace forcooking,seeEquipmentforCookingattheHearth(page17).

Before you begin cooking, take a few steps to ensure that you and yourfamilystaysafe.

•Neverusecharcoal.

•Besurethechimneyflueisopenbeforeyoustartthefire.

•Haveafireextinguishernearby,andmakesureit’sbeeninspectedwithinthepastsixmonths(seepage10).

•Keepaspraybottlefilledwithwaternearbytocontrolflare-ups.

Although you can cook by placing a cast-iron pan directly on hot coals,usingaTuscangrill(seepage17)isagoodideaforthreereasons:Theframekeepsyourpansstableand flat, so there’sno tiltingofahotpanwhena logshifts. The flat pan thatmakesup thebottomof a Tuscangrill protects yourhearthfloorfromstains,andcontainsanygreasespills.TheTuscangrillhasarackthatcanbemovedclosertothefireorfartheraway,givingthecooksomecontrolovertemperatureandcookingtime.Ifyou’reworriedaboutstainsonyourhearthstones(notunderthefirebutin

frontof it),youcanspreaddampdishtowelsoverthestonestoprotectthemfromgreasespattersanddroplets.

SHRIMPWRAPPEDINPROSCIUTTOServes4

Really good, fresh shrimp cooked quickly in a hot pan for just aminuteortwoandthenwrappedinprosciutto,theseshrimparemyversion of “surf and turf.” They’re light and easy, as well ascompletely satisfying.Youcanmake theseon the stovebut I urgeyoutomakethemeitheratthehearthoroverafirepitoutdoors.

Servetheshrimpwithaclean,citrusysalad.

24largeperfect,peeledfreshGulfshrimpCoarseseasalt,preferablygraysaltFreshlygroundblackpepper3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreifneeded24thinslicesprosciutto12ripefigsRosemarysprigsforgarnish(optional)

BuildafireinthebottomofaTuscangrill(seepage17)setinyourfireplace,ordirectly on the floor of your fireplace. Allow the fire to burn until the flameshavedieddownandtheglowingwoodprovidesasteady,evenheat.Heat a large cast-iron pan or plancha on the rack of the Tuscan grill or

directlyoverthefire.(Youcandothisonyourstoveifyouprefer.)Seasontheshrimpwithsaltandpepper.Pourintheoliveoil,andcookasmanyshrimpaswill fit in thepanbutdon’tcrowdthem.Cooktheminbatches ifyouhaveto.Cook the shrimpuntil they’re just turningpink, 1 to2minutes. Transfer to aplattertocool.Wipeout thepanor theplanchawithpaper towelswhile the shrimpcool.

Whenthey’recoolenoughtohandle,wrapeachshrimpinasliceofprosciutto.Ithelpstohaveabigcuttingboardonwhichtowork.Justplaceitonthefloorbeside the fire.Gentlyplace theshrimpbundles into thehotdrypan,put thepan back on the rack or directly on the fire, and cook until they’re warmedthrough,justaminuteortwo.Toserve,tearthefigsintofourpieceseachwithyourfingers(you’reatthe

hearth!Forgetabouttheknife!)andarrangetheshrimpbundlesandtornfigsonaplatter. Ifyou like,addafewrosemarysprigstotheplate.Takeabiteofshrimpfollowedbyabiteoffig.Enjoy.

SHRIMPANDPROSCIUTTO,FLAMES,STARLIGHT,ONEGIRLFRIEND(WHOALSOHAPPENSTOBEMYWIFE),AGOODBOTTLEOFCHAMPAGNEFROM

MYGAL’SCOLLECTION,ANDIAMTHEHAPPIESTMANALIVE.

CLAMSINACATAPLANAWITHCHICKEN-APPLESAUSAGESANDCRISPYSAGEServes4

Go toa trattoriaor taverna inany littleseaside townwherepeoplesupportthemselvesbywhattheycatchintheocean,andyou’llfindclams and sausages together on the menu. To cook this in thehearthonacataplana—ahingedcopperpanresemblingaclamshell—is togiveanod to those fishermenwho realizedhowgood freshclamscanbewithsomechoppedsausage. Isetmycataplanarightonhotcoalsinthefireplace.Ifyouareacataplanafanwhopreferstokeeptheircopperbrightandshining,don’tdothis.Personally,I likerustic kitchen utensils and pans that show somebattle scars, but Iget itwhenpeoplewanttokeeptheircookwarelookingnew.Abigcast-ironpansetonthecoalswillservejustfinebuthavesomethingreadytocoveritwithwhenit’stimefortheclamstosteam.

6chicken-applesausages(suchasAidells)2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreifneeded4perfectwholesageleaves2garliccloves,minced½cupfinelydicedredbellpepper3longsprigsfreshthyme2poundsManilaorcherrystoneclams,scrubbed⅓cupchoppedfreshflat-leafparsley1½cupswhitewine1lemon

BuildafireinaTuscangrill(seepage17)setinyourfireplaceordirectlyonthefloorofyour fireplace.Allow the fire toburnuntil the flameshavedieddownandtheglowingwoodprovidesasteady,evenheat.

Onacast-ironpanoraplanchasetontheTuscangrillrack,directlyoverthecoals,oronthestove,brownthesausages.Transfertoaplattertocool,andsetaside.Lineaheat-proofplatewithpapertowels.Setthecataplanaoverthecoals

in the hearth or use a cast-iron pan with a lid. Pour the olive oil into thecataplana or the pan and when it’s hot add the sage leaves. When they’recrispy,transfertheleavestothetowel-linedplateandsetaside.Addmoreoil to thecataplana ifneeded.When it’shot, add thegarlicand

cookuntilitbeginstoturngolden,about3minutes.Addthebellpeppertothepanandcookfor2to3minutes.Addthethyme,

clams,parsley,andwhitewine.Withalemonpeeler(thetypeusedforalemontwist fordrinks), peel thewhole lemon into several long strips, eachabout3inches long, adding it to the cataplana just as it comes off the fruit. Set thepeeledlemonasideforanotheruse.Ifusingacataplana,closeit.Ifusingacast-ironpan,coverit.Thewineand

juicesreleasedfromtheshellfishwillbegintosimmerinsidethecataplana.Theshellfishwillopeninabout5to7minutes.Carefullyremovethepanfromtheheatandopenthetop.Discardanyclams

thathaven’t opened.Cut the sausagesdiagonally into½-inch slicesandaddthemtothepan.The cataplana can be separated into two pieces. Use the bottom as a

servingbowland the topasaplace toputemptyclamshells. Ifusingapan,haveabowlonthetabletocollecttheshells.

PERSONALLY,ILIKERUSTICKITCHENUTENSILSANDPANSTHATSHOWSOMEBATTLESCARS,BUTIGETITWHENPEOPLEWANTTOKEEPTHEIRCOOKWARELOOKINGNEW.

SKEWEREDQUAILWITHGRAPESALADANDCITRUS-ROSEMARY

SALTServes6

Hot, smoky, crisp-skinned quail served with a salad of cool, juicygrapes—thecontrastisfantastic. Youhavetwooptionsforholdingthequail near the fire. You can usegreenbranches to skewer thequailorusewoodenskewersandthenstandtheskeweredquail inheat-proofpotsfilledwithsandplacedclosetothefire. Ifyouopttocookyourquailonbranches,choosebranchesatleast2to3feetlong.Makesure they’regreen,not drywood—tobesure, cut themoffthetreeratherthangatheringthemfromtheground.Useasharpknifetostripoffthebarkbeforeplacingthebirds.Youcanstandthetreebranchesuprightonyourhearthbesidethefireorjamtheendsof the branches into pots filled with sand. If you want to bemoreprecise, youcandowhatourphotographer,FrankieFrankeny,did,and drill holes in a big log that can hold the branches in place.Move the treebranches toshift thequailcloseror farther fromthefire.Checkthebirdsduringcookingtomakesurethey’rebrowningevenlyall thewayaround. Ifyourquail isskeweredandset inpots,rotate thepots everyonce in awhile. Bonedquail are called forhere.There’sacoolmachinethatremovesthequailbonesfromtheinside. If yourbutchercan findaquailproducer thatdoes this, youmayaswelltakeadvantageofit.Butyoucanmakethiswithbone-inquailtoo,ifthat’swhatyouhave.

GRAPESALAD

2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plus¼cup2heapingtablespoonsfreshrosemaryleaves3cupshalvedredgrapes1teaspoonCitrus-RosemarySalt(page211)¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1teaspoongratedlemonzest1tablespoonfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

6quail,eachabout5ounces(askthebutchertobonethem)3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoilforrubbingCitrus-RosemarySaltforseasoning

Builda fire inyour fireplace.Allowthe fire toburnuntil the flameshavedieddownandtheglowingwoodprovidesasteady,evenheat.

FORTHESALAD: Inacast-ironpanorplanchaseton therackofaTuscangrill(seepage17)orsetdirectlyonthefire,heatthe2tablespoonsoliveoil.(Youcanalsodothisinasautépanonyourstove.)Lineaplatterwithpapertowels.When the oil is hot, add the rosemary leaves and sauté until crisp, about 30seconds.Withaslottedspoonorspatula,transfertheleavestothepaper-linedplatterandsetasidetocool.In amedium bowl, toss the grapeswith the 1 teaspoon Citrus-Rosemary

Salt,blackpepper, lemonzest, lemonjuice,andtheremaining¼cupofoliveoil.Addthecrisprosemaryleavesandtoss.Chilluntilthequailisready.Ifusingwoodenskewers,soaktwelve12-inchskewersincoolwaterfor30

minuteswhileyouworkonthebirds.Prepare the quail by removing the wing at the first joint (or have your

butcherdothisforyou).Leavethedrumstickportionofthewing.Ifusinggreenbranches,skewerthequailsusingatleasttwothinsharpbranchesperbirdtohold it firmly above the fire. If using skewers, use two skewers per bird, andformacriss-crosswiththeskewersbyinsertingonefromthequail’srightwingtotheleftlegandtheotherfromtheleftwingtotherightleg.Worksothattheskewersareheldinplacebythelegsandwingjoints.Rubeachbirdwitholiveoil,about1teaspoonperbird,andseasonwiththe

Citrus-RosemarySalt.Standtheendsoftheskewersinpotsofsandnexttothefire.Cookforabout3minutesoneachside,oruntilthejuicesrunclearwhenyoucutintoathigh(justasyou’dcheckchicken).Allowthequailtocoolforafew minutes and then take them off the branch or remove the skewers,twistingthemslowlysotheydon’ttearthemeat.Placeonequailoneachplateandspoonsomeofthegrapesaladbesideit.

LEGOFLAMBONASTRINGServesabout1personperpound

Ihaveahooksetbeneathmyfireplacemantelforthesolepurposeof cooking lamb this way. The lamb is suspended by heavy stringfromthehookandthelegspinsslowlywhilethemeatcooks.Everytimeyoupass,giveitagentletwirlsothelambspinsinfrontoftheheatwhile it roasts. Here’s thecool thingabout thismethod: thelambwillspinuntilthestringisunwoundandthen,duetothelamb’sweight,itwillkeepspinningintheoppositedirectionuntilitreachesfulltwistandbeginsunwindingagain.Peopleofeveryagegetakickoutofwatching it to seehow long it spinswithout a touch. Thismethodworks for any leg of lamb from6 to 12 pounds. Ask yourbutchertoremovethepelvicbonebutkeepthelegintactandscrapedownthebonemidwayifneededsoyouhaveasturdyplaceonthebonethatwillholdtheweightofthelamb.Takethisbookalongandhold up the photo so your butcher understands what you’replanning. Ifyoudon’thaveamantelhook,buythehookandinstallitbeforeyoubuythelambsothehookhastimetosetinplace. Ifilla spray bottle with a saltwater solution and spray the lamb aboutevery10minutes. Beforeyoubegincooking,allow2to3hoursforthe lamb to come to room temperature after it’s come out of thefridge.

SALTWATERSOLUTION

3cupswater⅔cupkoshersalt

1legoflamb,6to12pounds(seeheadnote)MintPesto(page32)

Whenthelambhasbeenoutofthefridgeforatleast2hours,startafireinyourfireplace. Allow the fire to burn until the flames have died down and theglowingwoodprovidesasteady,evenheat.

FORTHESALTWATERSOLUTION:Fillamediumsaucepanwiththewater,addthekoshersalt,andbring toaboilon thestoveoverhighheat.Turnoff theheatand allow the solution to cool.When it’s cool, transfer to a spray bottle and

havethebottlehandyonthehearth.

Trim any excess fat from the lamb and discard. Tie a 2-foot-long piece ofbutcher’s twineor kitchen string securely around thebone at the endof thelambleg.Testittomakesureitwillholdthelamb’sweight.Tietheotherendofthe twine to the fireplacehook so the lamb is suspended; thebottomof thelambshouldbeabout8to12inchesabovethefire.Placeapanatleast9by13inchesunderthelambtocatchallthedrippings.Thelegwillbegintospin;givetheheelatwistinthedirectioninwhichitis

turning. Every 10minutes or so, check to see if the lamb is turning on thestring.Ifit’snot,giveitagentlepushsoitspins.Afterabout15minutes,begintobastewiththesaltwatersolutionevery5to

10minutes,sprayingthelamballthewayaround.Feedthefirefrombothsides(butnotfromthefront),pushingthewoodto

thecenterasitburns.Atthispointdon’taddanymorewoodbutlettheflamesdiedownsotheembersarecookingthelamb.After90minutes,beginbastingthelambwiththepesto.(Setasideabout½

cupofthepestoforbasting;savetheremainingpestotoserveasacondimentatthetable.)Thelambwillroastforbetween1and2hoursfora6-poundlegandupto2

½hoursfora12-poundleg.Checkfordonenessbyinsertinganinstant-readthermometer in the thickest part of the leg, but don’t let it touch bone. Formedium-raremeat, the temperatureshouldbe130°F.Transfer the lambtoasheetpan,coverlightlywithasheetofaluminumfoil,andletitrestforatleast15minutes.Bythetimethelambisdone,everyonewho’sgivenitapushfeelsinvested,

soIliketocarvethelambatthetable,whereeveryonecansee.Useanapkintohold the legby theheel,atanangle,with thebuttend restingon theplatter.Sliceawayfromyourself,atasharpangle,withtheknifebladealmostparallelto the bone. Carve slices first from the thick,meaty section of the leg, then,turning the legover, from the smallermuscle on theother side.Holding theknifeataslightanglewiththeedgepointingupward,removesmallslicesfromtheshank.Serveasliceofeachcutontoeveryplate,tiptheplatter,andspooncarving

juicesovereachserving.Addagenerousspoonfulofpestotoeachplate.

SALT-BAKEDPOTATOESWITH

MASCARPONEANDPROSCIUTTOBITS

Serves6to8

Imaginethebestbarfoodyou’veeverhad,eateninfrontofyourownfireplaceathome.That’swhatthesesalt-bakedpotatoesare.Servetheminfrontofthefireplacewithice-coldbeer(orrootbeerforthekids)andmaybeagameofcheckers.Watchtheeveningtakeonawholedifferenttone. Ifyou’veeversalt-roastedbeetsorpotatoesin your oven, this is the same technique used over a fire. Salt-roasting is a great method because it holds in the flavor andmoistureofwhateveryou’reroasting.You’dexpectpotatoescookedinasaltbedtotastetoosalty,butthey’renot.Theycomeofftheheatperfectlycooked,moistinside,andwell-seasonedbutnotsalty.Useverysmallpotatoesifyoucanfindthem;ifnot,slicelargerpotatoesinhalf. Forgetbaconbits.Back inmyTraVignedays, I cameupwithprosciuttobitsasawaytousethe“heel,”theendoftheshankthat’s left when you’ve shaved every last slice you can from theprosciutto.Thesewereanaccident—I left them in theskillet a littletoo long—but I found I liked how crunchy theywere. These add agood meaty flavor to baked potatoes, scrambled eggs, and evenpasta sauce. Save yourself some time: instead of mincing theprosciutto,askyourbutchertogrinditforyou.

20to24tinywholeYukongoldpotatoes(about3poundstotal),peellefton

3to5cupskoshersalt2tablespoonsoliveoil6tablespoonsfinelymincedprosciutto(fromthe“heel”)½cupmascarponeorcrèmefraîche(page217)4tablespoonschoppedfreshchives(optional)⅛teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

BuildafireinaTuscangrill(seepage17)setinyourfireplaceordirectlyonthefloorofyour fireplace.Allow the fire toburnuntil the flameshavedieddownandtheglowingwoodprovidesasteady,evenheat.

Washthepotatoesandpatthemdry.Spreada¼-inchbedofsaltinalargeflame-proofpanorDutchovenandplacethepotatoesontopof thesalt.Setthepanon thegrill rackofaTuscangrillordirectlyon the fire.Youcanalsobakethepotatoesina425°Fovenuntilthepotatoesareforktender,about40minutes.While thepotatoes cook,make theprosciutto bits.Heat a cast-iron skillet

eitherontopofthestoveovermedium-highheatoroverthecoals.Whentheskillet is hot, pour in the olive oil. When it’s hot, add the prosciutto. Theprosciuttowillgiveoffsteamforabout5minuteswhileitreleasesitsmoisture.Whenthehissofsteamturnstoasizzle,decreasetheheattomedium-loworraise the pan a little above the coals. Cook, stirring occasionally, until theprosciuttobitsarecrisp,about30minutes.Whiletheycook,lineaplatterwithseveralthicknessesofpapertowel.Usingaslottedspoon,transferthebitstotheplatter.(Youcanfreezethese

forupto6monthsandwarminaskilletasneeded.)Take thepanholding thepotatoesoff the fire (oroutof theoven)and let

themcoolontheirsaltbedinthepanforatleast20minutes.Spoon the mascarpone into a ramekin or small serving dish and the

prosciuttobitsintoanotherdish.Ifservingchives,youcaneitherplacetheminanotherramekinorhavetheprosciuttoandchivesshareasinglebowl.Setoutthe potatoes, still on their bed of salt, and treat them as finger food. Leteveryone spoon asmuchmascarpone, prosciutto bits, and chives onto theirpotatoesastheylike.

CHEF’SNOTE:Theadvantagetothismethodisthesaltactsasaninsulatinglayersothepotatoesdon’tdevelopanultra-firmpatchfromrestingdirectlyonahotpan.Forbakedpotatoeswithsuper-crispyskin,trywettingthesalt.Withyourhands,slushthesaltwithalittlewaterinalargebowluntilit’stheconsistencyofsnow.Putdownabedofsaltinabakingdishusinghalfofthesalt,addthepotatoes, and then cover thepotatoesentirely using the rest of the salt, andcookonafireorintheovenasdirectedabove.

ROASTEDSTRAWBERRIESWITH

PANNACOTTA

Makessix½-cupservings

This is my fired-up version of strawberries and cream. Summer berries,intensifiedunderheat,arespoonedoverasilkenpannacotta. Gelatinsheets(also called leaves) make a more refined panna cotta, without the rubberytexture that gelatin powder can sometimes add. It’s worth the trouble oforderinggelatininsheets(seeResources,page218). Lemonpeelbrightensthepanna cotta’s flavor.Use a vegetablepeeler to remove the lemonpeel—only the yellow part, not the white pith. Make the panna cotta the nightbefore;roasttheberriesrightonthehearth,andthenbringoutthepannacottawhentheberriesareready.Yougettochoosewhetheryouwanttoserveyourpannacotta in the ramekinsor take theextrastep tounmold them.With thisrecipe,thevanillasinkstothebottom,leavingflecksofdarkacrossthepannacotta’screamywhitesurface;youdon’tget the fulleffectunlessyouunmoldontoaplate.

PANNACOTTA

2silvergelatinleavesor2teaspoonsgelatinpowder2cupsheavycream1cupwholemilk⅓cupsugarPinchofsalt1wholevanillabeanPeelfrom1lemon,cutinwidestrips

ROASTEDSTRAWBERRIES

1½poundsfirmstrawberries,hulledandquarteredPinchofcoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt1½tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice½cupsugar

FORTHEPANNACOTTA:Soakthegelatinleavesinalargebowloficewateruntilsoft,4to5minutes.(Ifusinggelatinpowder,mixitwith¼cupcoldwaterandsetitaside.)Whilethegelatinsoaks,heatthecream,milk,the⅓cupsugar,andsalt in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Halve the vanilla beanlengthwisewithasmallknife.Scrapeoutthefillingandaddthefillingandthebeantothepotalongwiththelemonpeel.Decreasetheheattomedium-lowtobringtheliquidtoasimmer.Whenyouseesmallbubblesallthewayaround

therim,takethepanofftheheatandsetitasidetocoolforatleast5minutes.Squeezethegelatinleavesgentlytoremoveexcesswater.Addthegelatin

leaves(orthegelatinpowder–watermixture)tothemilkmixture.Stiruntilthegelatin melts, about 30 seconds. Strain the mixture through a fine-meshstrainer.Ladleintosix4-to5-ounceramekins,molds,ormartiniglasses.Coverand

refrigerateatleast4hoursorovernight.

FOR THE STRAWBERRIES: Toss the strawberrieswith the salt, lemon juice, andsugar.Pourintoacast-ironskillet10incheswideorlargerandsettheskilletonthehearthgrateornestletheskilletrightintheembersaslongasthefireisnottoo hot. You can also put the skillet over the grate in your fire pit. After 3minutes, toss the berries in the pan, and then return the pan to the grate orembers. The berries are done when they are soft and syrupy, after about 5minutes.About30minutesbeforeserving,putservingplatesintotherefrigeratorto

chill.Whenreadytoserve,unmoldeachpannacottabydippingthebottomoftheramekininwarmwaterforjustasecondortwo,andthenrunningaparingknifearoundthepannacottagently insidetherim.Tipthemoldupsidedownontoachilledplate,andthenspoonsomeofthestrawberriesandtheirsyrupontheplatebesidethepannacotta.

PIZZASONTHEGRILL

ImusthaveworkedathousanddaysatTraVigne’spizzaoven.Wealwayshadonepersonmakingthedough, and one person doing the cooking. On abusy day, making pizza dough was one of myfavorite tasks. It’s meditative to work flour andwater together intoadough,andthentowatch ittransformagainwhenexposedtoheat.Ican’thelpthinking about all the people, over hundreds ofyears, who’ve done this task using the samemotions.Mywife,Eileen,hasbecomethe residentpizza

makeratourhouse.Latelyshe’sbeenshowingourson how to make dough. I watch them in ourkitchen and it strikesmewhat a nice task this isfor small hands to learn. And when I think ofmaking pizza with my kids—Roux, Felicia, Giana,and now Aidan—my next thought is, “one moregeneration of pizza makers.” It seems wondrousandalittlestrangetomethatI’mnolongerattheendofthe linebutamonestepforward inaverylongchain.

MENU

PizzaDough

Piadine,FourWaysGreekPiadinewithKalamataTapenade,GrilledPeppers,andFetaCaesarPiadine—Romaine,Anchovies,Garlic,andParmesanHeartlandPiadine—RedPeppers,Chicken,andSpinach

GeorgiaPiadine—Shallots,Peaches,andBlueCheese

PizzawithShallots,WildMushrooms,SmokedOliveOil,andFontina

PizzawithAsparagusPesto,Cambozola,andInsalatina

RoastedGarlicPizzawithGrilledTomatoVinaigretteandArugula

DarkChocolate–CherryCalzones

PIZZA-MAKINGTIPS

- Allow time for the dough to rise twice. I like to start thedoughthedaybeforeI’llgrillthepizzas.

-Don’ttrytocookpizzasinyourgrillorinanovenwithoutapizzastone(seepage14,andResources,page218).

- Make sure the grill is very hot first, before you cook thedough.

-Ifyouprefernottogrill,youcanmakeanyofthesepizzasin

a very hot oven, but they won’t have the same authenticpizzeriacrust,whichisblisteredoutside,andtenderinside.

-Ifyouhaveawood-burningoven,byallmeansuseitforanyofthesepizzas.

-Youcancrackapizzastoneifyouputacoldstoneonahotgrillrackorahotstoneonacoldsurface.Takesomecaresoyourstonelastslonger.

SAMEDOUGH,DIFFERENTOUTCOMEYouonlyneedtomakeonekindofdoughforfoccaccia,piadine,pizza,and flatbread, in that order. If you just shape the dough lightly withyourfingers,that’sfocaccia.Athinner,butstillsoftanddoughyversionisapiadine,whichIusuallytopwithahighlyflavoredpasteorspread,someshavingsofahardcheese,andasalad.Makethedoughthinneryetforpizzas(Ilikethemcrisp),andthenmakeflatbread(seepage33)byrollingthisdoughjustaboutasthinasitcango.

PIZZADOUGH

Makesten6-ounceballsofdough(eachabout4inchesindiameter)

Goodpizzadoughstartswithasponge—asortofpre-doughmixofyeast,flour,sugar,andwater.Youletthespongefermentforabout4hours,andthenyouaddtherestoftheingredientstomaketheactualdough.Thisgivesyourpizzacrustbetter flavorandthetinyairpockets thatmakethecrustchewybutstillevenintexture,withoutbigholesformedbyairbubbles.The type of yeast you use matters. I use fresh beer yeast for my pizza

dough.Lookforthis inthedairysectionofyourmarketoraskyourgrocertoorderitforyou.Makethedoughaheadoftimeandrefrigerateovernightorfreezeforupto

6months.Letitcomebacktoroomtemperaturebeforeyoubegintoworkit.

SPONGE

1ouncefreshbeeryeastor1package(2¼teaspoons)activedryyeast(notfast-acting)

2cupswarmwater(105°Fto115°F)1tablespoonsugar2cupshigh-gluten(bread)flour

DOUGH

OnebatchSponge1cupwarmwater(105°Fto115°F)1cupall-purposeunbleachedwhiteflour4cupshigh-gluten(bread)flour2tablespoonscoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt

FORTHESPONGE: Ina largebowl,mix theyeast,warmwater,sugar,andhigh-glutenflourwithawoodenspoonuntiltherearenolumps.Thespongewillbeverywetandsticky.Coverthebowlwithplasticwrapandlet itrest inawarm(butnottoohot)areafor4hoursorovernight.

FORTHEDOUGH:Lightlyoilalargebowlandsetaside.In a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine the sponge, warm

water,theall-purposeflour,3cupsofthehigh-glutenflour,andsalt.Mixatlowspeeduntilthedoughcomestogethertoformaballthatissoftandsticky,butsmooth, 5 to 6 minutes. Increase the machine’s speed to medium andgraduallyaddtheremaining1cupofhigh-glutenflour.Transfer thedough to a flouredwork surface.Gently kneadbyhanduntil

smooth. If you slam thedoughhardonto your surface several times thiswillhelpglutendevelop,makingthedoughsmootherandmoreelastic.Transferthedoughtothelightlyoiledbowl,covertightlywithplasticwrap,

andletriseatroomtemperatureuntilitdoublesinvolume,2to4hours.Divideinto10equalportions,eachabout6ounces.Rolleachsectionintoaball.Youcanbeginworkingwiththedoughrightaway;ifyouwanttostoreit,use

a lightly oiled 9-by-11-by-2-inch container with a lid. Place the dough ballssidebysideanddrizzlethetopswitholiveoiltokeepaskinfromforming.Theywillkeep,refrigerated,for24hours,orfreezeforupto6months.

IFYOUSLAMTHEDOUGHHARDONTOYOURSURFACESEVERALTIMESTHISWILLHELPGLUTENDEVELOP,MAKINGTHEDOUGHSMOOTHERANDMOREELASTIC.

BUILDINGAPIADINE

A piadine ismade of four components: a highly flavored spread or paste, aproteinorvegetable,hardcheeseeithergratedorcrumbled,andcrispgreensorasalad.Withinthatframework,thereareathousanddifferentwaysyoucango.A piadine isn’t something youmeasure very seriously. Jump in andmake

one to get a feel for howmuch garlic paste or red pepper butter you wantspreadonthepizza,andhowmuchcheeseandgreens.Lookattheblueprint,thentryanyoftheoptionsfollowingorcomeupwithyourownmasterplan.

PIADINEBLUEPRINT=1TO2TABLESPOONSHIGHLYFLAVORED

PASTEORSPREAD+1/4CUPPROTEINORVEG+GRATINGOFHARDCHEESE+1/2CUPGREENSORSALAD

PIADINE,FOURWAYS

GREEKPIADINEWITHKALAMATATAPENADE,GRILLEDPEPPERS,ANDFETA1pizzaserves4to6asanappetizer

1ballofdough(PizzaDough,page94)2tablespoonsKalamataTapenade(page58)2tablespoonscrumbledfetacheese2tablespoonschoppedroastedredbellpeppers(page135)½peeledcucumber,cutintoslices½veryripetomato,chopped2tablespoonsRedWineVinaigrette(page212)Sprinkleofcornmealforthepizzapeel

Turnagasgrill tohighorignitecharcoalandsetpizzastoneonthegrillrack.Letitheatforatleast10minuteswhileyourolloutdoughonaflouredsurfacewitharollingpinuntil9to10inchesacross.Place the dough on a pizza peel and slide the dough onto the preheated

pizzastone.Closethelidonthegrill.Cookfor2to3minutesandthenslidethepeelunderthepiadinetoremoveitfromthestone.Smooth on the tapenade with a spoon or spatula, top with the feta, and

sprinklewiththeredpeppers.Withthepeel,slideitbackontothepizzastone,closethegrilllid,andcookfornomorethan2minutes.Take the piadine off the heat and topwith the cucumbers and tomatoes.

Drizzlewithvinaigrette.Youcanfoldupapiadineifit’smeantforonepersonortreatitlikeapizzaandcutitintosmallportionstoshare.Toprepareanyoftheversionsbelow,followinstructionsforGreekPiadinewithKalamataTapenade,

GrilledPeppers,andFeta,andjustswitchoutthetoppings.

CAESARPIADINE—ROMAINE,ANCHOVIES,GARLIC,ANDPARMESAN:Roasted Garlic Paste (page 212) + grilled Caesar salad + fresh thyme +gratedParmesan

HEARTLANDPIADINE—REDPEPPERS,CHICKEN,ANDSPINACH:RoastedRedPepperButter(page159)+juliennedroastedredbellpeppers+dicedorslicedgrilledchicken+babyspinach+tinytomatoescutinhalf+shavedpecorino

GEORGIAPIADINE—SHALLOTS,PEACHES,ANDBLUECHEESE:Thin-sliced and caramelized shallots or onions (see page 186) + grilledpeaches (see page 132) + grated blue cheese + arugula + Honey–AppleCiderVinegarDressing(page213)

PIZZAWITHSHALLOTS,WILDMUSHROOMS,SMOKEDOLIVEOIL,ANDFONTINAMakesthree10-inchpizzas;serves6

Whilemaking thispizza, Iwas thinkingaboutmyoldestdaughter,Margaux(IcallherRoux,whichisshortforhernicknameMargaroux,theculinaryversionof“kangaroo”).Mybestbook-writingdaysstartwithalongbikerideupSpringMountain. Iwearmyearphonebut reception is spotty; theonlypersonwhohasanuncannyability tocallwhen reception isperfect isRoux.ShecalledafewweeksagojustasIwasgoingaroundabendontheroad.IpulledovertotalktoherandtensecondslaterIsawacheesedeliverytruckswingingwildlyby,goingabout70mphwheremybikewouldhavebeenifRouxhadn’tcalledme.(Monthslater,Istillthinkaboutthis,thatmylastmomentscouldhavebeen

spentfacingacheesetruck.Acheesetruck?Seriously?!)I thought about Roux for the rest of that day, and the pizza parties she’d

enjoyed for childhoodbirthdays.Roux is grownnow, andnewlymarried, butthosepizzapartieswhenshewassmall liveoninmyheart.RouxremindsmeallthetimehowluckyIamthatsheismydaughter.I like to pull outmy plancha to cook themushrooms and shallots for this

pizza,butacast-ironpanonthegrilloryourstoveworksjustaswell.Creminimushroomsaregoodherebut feel free touseanymushroomsyou like.Thebestmushroompizzas startwithmushrooms that you hunteddown yourselfwithsomeofyourbestfriends.

½cupextra-virginoliveoil7cupsquarteredmushrooms6to8mediumshallots,julienned(about1cupjulienne)1½teaspoonschoppedfreshthyme2teaspoonscoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt¾teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper3ballspizzadough(PizzaDough,page94)1½cupsgratedFontinacheese1½tablespoonsSmokedOliveOil(page210)

Turn a gas grill to high or ignite charcoal. If using a gas grill, once it’s hot,decrease the temperature tomedium-high. Set a plancha or two large cast-ironpansonthegrillracktoheat.Pourabout2tablespoonsoftheoilontotheplanchaor intoeachpan.Let

theoilheat, thenadd themushrooms inasingle layer.Drizzle the remainingoliveoiloverthemushrooms.Cookwithoutstirringuntilthey’rebrownonthebottom, about 7 minutes. Add the shallots and stir with the mushrooms.Sprinkle on the thyme, salt, and pepper, and cook until lightly caramelized,another4minutes.Take thepanoff the fireandput thepizzastoneonyourgrillracktoheat.Onaflouredsurface,rollouteachballofdoughuntil10to12inchesacross.

Grillthenakedroundsofdoughonthepreheatedpizzastoneuntilthedoughpuffsupandthebottomshowssomebrown,about1½minutes.Eitherusingapeelorlongtongs,flipthepizzaandgrillforanother90seconds.Withapizzapeel,takethepizzaofftheheat.Ifyoulike,youcangrillallthreenakedpizzasandthensetthemasidetobereadyforthetoppings.

Top each pizza with½ cup of themushroommixture and½ cup of theFontina.Withapizzapeel,transferthepizzabacktothepizzastone,closethelidofthegrill,andcookforabout1minute.Transfer the pizza to a cutting board, drizzle each pizza with about 1½

teaspoonsofSmokedOliveOil,cutintoslices,andserve.

PIZZAWITHASPARAGUSPESTO,CAMBOZOLA,ANDINSALATINAMakesthree10-inchpizzas;serves6

Asparaguspairssowellwithfreshbasilinthispestoblend.Thispestorocksonpasta or fish, but I love it best on grilled pizza finishedwithCambozola. Theintenselyflavorfulbutstilllightpestoandtheover-the-topflavorandtextureof

themeltedcheeseturnahumblepizzaintosomethingluxurious.

ASPARAGUSPESTO

1½poundsasparagus,eachspearaboutpencil-size3tablespoonspinenuts2tablespoonskoshersalt¾cuplooselypackedchoppedfreshbasil1½tablespoonsmincedgarlic(seeChef’sNote)¼teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt,plusmoreifneededFreshlygroundblackpepperAbout1¼cupsoliveoil,plusmoreifneeded¾cupfreshlygratedParmesancheese

INSALATINA

2½tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil2teaspoonssherryvinegar¼teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt⅛teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper3cupsarugula3ballspizzadough(PizzaDough,page94)12ouncesCambozolacheese

Turnagasgrilltohighorignitethecharcoalinachimney(seepage42).Whenthecharcoalisglowing,pouritintothebottomofthegrillandreplacethegrillrack.Atthestove,heatalargepotofwatertoboiling.Whilethewaterheats,snap

theendsofftheasparagusandsetspearsaside.Toastthepinenutsinasmalldrypanovermediumheat,tossingtoheatevenly.Keepaneyeonthem;theyburneasily.Assoonastheybegintoshowcolorandyoucansmellthem,pourthemoutofthepanandontoaplatetocool.Addthekoshersalttothewaterandcooktheasparagusuntilitjustbegins

toshowsignsoftenderness,about5minutes.Takeitoutofthewater,andpatdrywithpapertowels.Grill the asparagus just until the spears show some grill marks, 3 to 4

minutes. (Grilling asparagus is easier if they’re in a grill basket, but if grillingdirectlyonthegrillrack,placetheasparagussothespearsareperpendiculartothegrillrack’sgrating.)Whenyoutaketheasparagusoffthefire,keepthefiregoingandplace thepizza stoneon thegrill rack toheatwhile youmake the

pesto.

FOR THE PESTO: Cut the grilled asparagus into thirds. In a food processor,combine the asparagus, pine nuts, basil, garlic, sea salt, and pepper. Don’toversalt at this point because the Parmesan will add saltiness. Pulse tocombineandthen,withthemachinerunning,slowlypourintheoliveoil.Whenthe blend has the consistency of mayonnaise, stop adding oil. Add theParmesaninthreebatches,pulsingaftereachbatch.Ifthesaucebecomestoothicksothatthecheesebeginstoclump,addwaterateaspoonatatime.Coverwith plastic wrap, pressing the wrap to touch the surface of the pesto, andrefrigerate.Thiskeepsinthefridgefor2daysoryoucanfreezeitfor2weeksbutIthinkittastesbestthedayit’smade.

FOR THE INSALATINA: In a small bowl,whisk together the oil, vinegar, sea salt,andpepper,andsetaside.Don’tdressthegreensuntilthepizzacomesoffthegrill.

On a floured surface, roll out each ball of dough until it’s 10 to 12 inchesacross.(Iactuallylikemycrustssortoffree-form—deformata—sodon’tworryifthey’renotpizza-shopround.)Sprinkle thepizza stonewith just a little cornmeal. Transfer the rolled-out

dough onto a pizza peel that you’ve dusted with some cornmeal or usespatulastotransferthepizzadoughtothestone.Grillthenakedpizzaonthepreheatedpizzastoneuntilthedoughpuffsup

andthebottomshowssomebrown,about1½minutes.Eitherusingapeelorlongtongs,flipthepizzaandgrillforanother90seconds.Takethepizzaofftheheatwiththepizzapeel. Ifyoulike,youcangrillall threenakedpizzarounds,andhavethemreadytobetoppedandthenheated.Topeachpizzawithabout4 tablespoonsofpesto, smoothing it toedges.

Add about 4 ounces of Cambozola per pizza. Return the pizzas to the grill.Closethegrill’slidandcookforabout1minute.Transferthepizzastoacuttingboardwith a pizza peel or a spatula. Toss the greenswith the dressing, usetongstodividethegreensbetweenthethreepizzas,cutintoslices,andserve.

CHEF’S NOTE: If you’re sensitive to raw garlic, blanch the garlic by boiling thewholeclovesinwaterforafewsecondsandthendunkingtheminicewater.

ROASTEDGARLICPIZZAWITHGRILLEDTOMATOVINAIGRETTEANDARUGULA

Makesthree10-inchpizzas;serves6Thisyear Imademyowntomatovinegar to tosswithour freshtomatoes. It’sbeenabighitatmyhouse.Thisvinegarisalsogoodonacapresesaladwhenyoufeellikeadoublehitoftomato.Youcanbuy tomatovinegarbut it’sexpensiveand tomedoesn’t tasteas

goodasthehomemadestuff,especiallyinthisvinaigrette.

GRILLEDTOMATOVINAIGRETTE

2tablespoonsTomatoVinegar(page214,orseeResources,page218)⅞cupextra-virginoliveoil

3ballspizzadough(PizzaDough,page94)6tablespoonsRoastedGarlicPaste(page212)1cupGriddledOnions(page75)6cupsarugula1½teaspoonscoarseseasalt,preferablygraysaltPinchoffreshlygroundblackpepper¾cupgratedParmesancheese

Foragasgrill,putthepizzastoneinfirstandthenturnthegasgrilltohigh.Fora charcoal fire, ignite the charcoal in a chimney (see page 42). When thecharcoalisglowing,pouritintothebottomofthegrill,replacethegrillrackandsetthepizzastoneontopofit.

FORTHEVINAIGRETTE:WiththeTomatoVinegarintheblenderandthemachinerunning,slowlydrizzleintheoliveoil.Setaside.

Onaflouredsurface,rollouteachballofdoughuntil10to12inchesacross.(Iactually likemycrustssortof free-form—deformata—sodon’tworry if they’renotpizza-shopround.)Grillthenakedroundofdoughonthepizzastoneuntilthedoughpuffsup

andthebottomshowssomebrown,about1½minutes.Eitherusingapeelorlongtongs,flipthepizzaandgrillforanother90seconds.Takethepizzaofftheheat.Ifyoulike,youcangrillseveralpizzarounds,andthensetthemasideuntilyou’rereadyforthetoppings.SpreadgarlicpasteonthegrilledpizzaandtopwithGriddledOnions.Witha

pizzapeel, transfer thepizzaback to thepizzastone,close the lidof thegrill,

andcookforabout1minute.Transferthepizzatoacuttingboard.Tossthearugulawith2tablespoonsof

thevinaigrette.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Moundone-thirdof thedressedarugulaontopeachpizza.TopwithParmesan,cutintoslices,andserve.

DARKCHOCOLATE–CHERRYCALZONESMakes12calzones

Amarena cherries and dark chocolate fill theseminiature calzones, each theperfectsizeforoneperson.Thecontrastofrichdarkchocolateandthesweet,distinctive cherries is just right when baked inside a pocket of barelysweeteneddough.Amarena cherries have a unique flavor because they start as wild Italian

cherries,whichare firmerand tangier than thecherriesweknowhere in theStates. The Fabbri family hasmade these cherries formore than a hundredyears.Anunopened jarofamarenacherrieswillkeepforyears(according totheFabbri family)but Ihaven’tbeenable to test thatbecausethe jarsvanishfrommypantry.Theganachecanbemadeupto2daysinadvanceandstoredinyourfreezer.

DOUGH

1package(2¼teaspoons)activedryyeast(notfast-acting)1teaspoonsugar1cupwarmwater(105°Fto115°F)¼cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreforoilingthebowl2½cupshigh-gluten(bread)flour,plusmoreforsprinkling½teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt

GANACHE

⅝cupheavycream5ouncesdarkchocolate(preferably72percentcacao),finelychopped(seeChef’sNote,page183)

1egg1tablespooncoldwater36amarenacherries3tablespoonsturbinadosugar

FORTHEDOUGH:Oilalargebowlandsetaside.Whisk together the yeast, sugar, and water in the bowl of a stand mixer

fitted with the paddle attachment. Add in the ¼ cup olive oil and whisk tocombine.Sprinklethe2½cupsofflourovertheyeast-sugarmixtureandthenaddthe

salton topof the flour.This is important;adding thesaltbefore the flourcanslowtheyeast’saction.Setasidesotheyeastcanferment,untilbubblesbegintoformaroundthe

outerringoftheflour,20to25minutes.Replacethepaddlewiththedoughhookandkneadthedoughatlowspeed

forabout10minutes.Thedoughwillbeslightlytacky.Transferthedoughtoaflouredworksurface.Kneadbyhandfor1minute

until thedough isno longersticky.Transfer thedough to theoiledbowland

coverwithplasticwrap.Set inawarmspotand let riseuntil doubled in size,about1½hours.Thedoughcanbemadethedayahead,coveredwithplasticwrap,andrefrigeratedovernight.

Placethedoughonaclean(notfloured)worksurfaceanddivideinto12equalportions (each about 2 ounces). Let them rest at room temperature for 10minutes.Whilethedoughisresting,turnagasgrilltohighorignitecharcoal.Ifusing

charcoal,waitforthefiretodiedownbeforeputtingthepizzastoneinthegrill.Ifusingagasgrill,putthepizzastoneonthegrillrackassoonasyouturnonthegrillsoitcanwarmupgradually.

FORTHEGANACHE:Heatthecreaminasaucepanovermediumheatbutdon’tallowittoboil.Addthechocolatetothecream,takethepanofftheheat,andletitstandfor1minute.Gentlystirthecreamandchocolatetogether.Setasideto cool. While it’s cooling make an egg wash by mixing the egg and the 1tablespooncoldwater.Rolleachdoughballintoadiskabout5½inchesindiameter.Spreadsome

oftheganacheinthecenterofeachdoughroundandtopwith3cherries.Withabrush,applyeggwasharoundtheedgeofeachdoughround.Foldoverandsecurelysealtheedgesbygentlypinchingthemtogether.Cut

threeshallowslashesinthetopofeachcalzonewiththetipofaknifetoallowsteam to escape.Brush the topof each calzonewith eggwash and sprinklewithturbinadosugar.Setapizzastoneonthegrilltoheat.

TOBAKE INAGRILL:Sprinkleflouronapizzapeelandthenuseittotransferthecalzonesonto thehotpizza stone.Close thegrill lid. If thegrill ishotter than550°F, the calzoneswill start to brown in 2minutes. Rotate the pizza stone(don’tturnthecalzonesover).Letthembakeforanother2to3minutes.Ifyourgrilliscoolerthan550°F,bakingwilltakealittlelonger.

TOBAKE INANOVEN:Preheattheovento400°F,andsetapizzastoneinsidetoheat.Transferthecalzonestothehotpizzastonewithapizzapeelorspatula,andbakeuntilgoldenbrown,10to12minutes.

CHAPTERFOUR

IRONANDFIRE:THEPLANCHA

Aplanchaseemssoelementaltome.It’sasimpleslabofiron,andforcenturies,peopleoneverycontinenthavecookedandstillcookonsomevariationofaplancha.WheneverIcookona plancha (also called a chapa), I think about the wood-burning stove thatmygrandparents cookedonbecause thetop of their stove offered the same kind of surface as theplancha I cook on at home. It tookme years to realize thatoneofthereasonsIlikedcookingonaplanchasomuchwasbecause Iwascopyinghowmygrandmotherhadcookedonheroldstovetop.Part of the plancha’s appeal is that it’s not a polished

gourmet cookshop item but just a straightforward slab ofiron.Yetthefoodthatcomesofftheplanchaisasbeautifulasanythingthatcomesfroma400-dollarpan.Ilovethatwithaplancha, there’s nothing to figure out or assemble. You justputtheplanchaoverthefireandcook.

GrilledAhiTunawithCarrotCaponataand“Broken”CarrotVinaigretteCauliflower“Steaks”withParsleyButterSauceGrilledBeefChiliPolentaBreadandBalsamicHoneyButterGrilledCeviche-MarinatedCalamariandShrimpwithCanchaPopcornGrilledMushroomswithSausages,Onions,andPeppersPotatoPolpette,TwoWaysRoastedLemonGranita

INSPIREDBYTRADITION

WhenIvisitedmygrandparents,backinthe1960s,Igottowalkwithmy cattle-ranching grandfather to the wood shed before dawn tohelphimcarrybackwoodforthestove.Ilaughattheimagewemusthavemade,mygrandfather’sarmsloadedwithbigchunksofwood,mebesidehimholdingskinnywoodpiecesinmyskinnyarms. I’dhelphimfireupthestovewhileeveryoneelseinthehousewasstillsleeping. At dinner time, my grandmother would reach up behindthe stove towhere the oreganowas drying. She’d cut off a bunchand rub it between her hands over the meat. All my college-agecousins would snicker because the aroma smelled just likemarijuana; while she would cook on top of her stove, my nonnawould glance over atmy cousins, puzzled, never knowingwhat allthe cackling was about. The plancha connects me to mygrandparents’cookingandalsotothemanypeoplewhostillcookona plancha. Throughout South America and Africa, and anywherepeoplecookoverfire,thistoolhasalonghistoryandisstillinuse.My plancha sits on my grill most of the time, and I use it foreverything from steaks to griddling onions for burgers to makingpancakesandFrench toast in themorningwhen Ihaveagroup tofeed.IthinkI’mhappiestwhenIgettomakesomethingthatcallsfordriedoregano,whenIremembermynonnaandnonnoandhowtheywouldcookontopoftheiroldwoodstove.

USINGAPLANCHAAplancha,whichmeans “metal plate” in Spanish, is just that: a thick slab ofmetalmadetorestovera flame.There’ssomethingabouta largeflatslabofironthatinspiresmycookingbutifyoudon’townaplancha,youcanmakeanyoftheplancharecipesinthisbookusingoneortwolargecast-ironpansplacedrightonyourgrillrackoroverafire.Beyond its rustic appeal, the planchamakesmywork easier because the

cookingsurfaceoffersamplespace.I’vecookedpancakesandFrenchtoastfortenpeople(seepage180)onmyplancha,anditwasmucheasierthandoingthesameamountofcookinginsideatthestove.Cleanupiseasier,too.Ilovethataplanchaissosimple.There’snothingtofigureout;youjustputit

overafireoronagrill.Iownafewofthem,andusethemeverytimeImakeafireorheadoutonacampingtrip.Measureyourgrillbeforebuyingaplanchasoyouknowyou’reorderingtherightsize.Care for your plancha as you would a cast-iron pan. Follow the

manufacturer’sdirections toseason itwithvegetableoilbeforecookingon itthe first time.Clean yourplanchawithhotwater (don’t use soap), towel dry,andreseasonifneeded.Obviouslyyouwanttoletahotpieceofmetalcooltoroom temperaturebefore trying toclean it—foryourownsakeaswellas theplancha’s.SeeResources,forwheretobuythem.

GRILLEDAHITUNAWITHCARROTCAPONATAAND“BROKEN”CARROTVINAIGRETTEServes6

In the Old World, on sailing ships, a caponata made of slicedvegetableswascookedwithvinegarandsugarsotheveggieswouldkeep a little longerwhen sailors left for ocean voyages. Formycaponata, I cookeachdicedvegetable individually so it isperfectlydone and dress itwith a carrot vinaigrettemade from fresh carrotjuice.Thevinaigrette ismade tobe “broken”with theoliveoil andcarrot juice reductionnotquiteemulsifyingbecause I likehow thislooksontheplate. Sautéallvegetablesseparately,eitherusingthesame pan to sauté one vegetable at a time or using a plancha orseveralcast-ironpanstocooktwovegetablesatonce.

CAPONATA

½cupoliveoil,plusmoreifneeded3cupsdicedcarrots(smalldice)1½cupsdicedpeeledpotatoes(smalldice)1½cupsdicedredonion(smalldice)1½cupsdicedeggplant(smalldice)2teaspoonscoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2cupswater¾cupgoldenraisins½cupChampagnevinegar1tablespoonsugar¼cuppinenuts,toasted(seepage58)1½teaspoonsgratedorangezest½cupchoppedfreshbasil¼teaspoonCalabrianchilepaste

“BROKEN”CARROTDRESSING

2cupsfreshcarrotjuice(seeChef’sNote)1teaspoonfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice¼teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysaltPinchoffreshlygroundblackpepper

¼cupextra-virginoliveoil

One2-inch-thickslabfreshahituna(2to2½pounds)2tablespoonsCocoaSpiceRub(page209)1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil

Turnagasgrilltohighorignitecharcoal.Whenthegrillishotorthecoalshaveturnedgray,placetheplanchaoracast-ironskilletonthegrillrackandheatforatleast10minutes.

FORTHECAPONATA:Pour2tablespoonsofoliveoil intoeachpanoroneitherendoftheplancha.Whentheoil ishot,addeachdicedvegetablesto itsownpan(orhalfoftheplancha)andseasonwith½teaspoonsaltand¼teaspoonblackpepper.Cookthecarrotsfor12minutes,potatoesfor10minutes,onionsfor approximately 8 minutes, and eggplant for 8 minutes. Transfer thevegetablestoabakingsheettocool.Indoors,at thestove,pourthewater intoasmallpanandbring it toaboil.

Addtheraisinsandtakethepanofftheheat.Setitaside,keepingtheraisinsinthewatertoplumpforatleast5minutes.Stillatthestove,pourthevinegarandsugarintoasmallsaucepanoverhigh

heat. Bring to a boil and cook until themixture is reduced to½ cup, 6 to 8minutes.Straintheraisins,reservingthesoakingliquid.Ifthefinishedcaponatacould

use some moisture, this liquid works well. Combine all the ingredientsincludingremainingoliveoil,salt,andpepper,inalargebowl.Caponatacanbeservedwarmorat roomtemperature,and itkeeps for3

dayscoveredinyourrefrigerator.

FORTHEDRESSING: Indoorsat thestove, inanonreactivepan,bring thecarrotjuice to a boil, then decrease the heat. Simmer until the juice is reduced toabout½cup.Strainthejuiceandwipethepanclean,thenpourthereductionbackintothepan.Reduceovermediumheatuntilthejuicehastheconsistency

ofmolasses, 3 to 5minutes. Take the pan off the heat.Whisk in the lemonjuice,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andslowlyadd theoliveoil. I like tostorethisinaglassbottleandshakeitupbeforeusingalthoughitwillstillseparate.Thiskeepsintherefrigeratorfor1week.

Generously rub the tunawithCocoaSpiceRub. Lightly drizzlewith olive oil.Placeonthehotplancha,searingallsidesuntilarichbrowncolor,about1½minutespersideformedium-raretuna.Removethetunafromheatandlet itrestfor5minutes.Thencutthetunainto2-inchcubes.Toserve,spoonabout1cupofcaponataoneachplate,andtopwith2to3

cubesoftuna.Drizzleeachplatewiththecarrotvinaigrette.

CHEF’SNOTE: IprefercarrotjuicethatIgetmyselffromajuiceextractor(suchasMagimix). Ifyoudon’thavea juicer,youcanusestore-boughtcarrot juicebutstrainitthreetimesthroughafine-meshstrainerbeforeyoureduceit.

CAULIFLOWER“STEAKS”WITHPARSLEYBUTTERSAUCE

Serves6assidedish

MyfriendClaudiaSansonesaysthatthiswayofcookingcaulifloweris“shockinglygood.”Thereissomethingverysatisfyingaboutslicingawholeheadofcauliflowerintoslabs,or“steaks”asIcallthem.It’salittletrickytocooktheseonastandardgrillbecausethecauliflowertends tobreakapartand the flameburns thebutter.Whencookedonaplancha, theslicesstay intactanddevelopagorgeousgoldencrust. Smaller heads of cauliflower can be sliced more easily;larger heads tend to crumble, so seek out really fresh cauliflowerwith small heads for this dish. Look in farmers’ markets, and trymaking this with purple and gold cauliflower too. This is awelcomedish for vegetarians. I also like to serveapieceofgrilledsalmonontopofacauliflowersteak.Foragreatsandwich,useanyleftover cauliflowerwithgrilledportobellomushroomsand roastedpeppers.

2smallor1largeheadcauliflower(about2to2¾pounds)Approximately½cupunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature2tablespoonscoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt1tablespoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2lemons1tablespoonmincedfreshflat-leafparsleyFreshlygratedParmesancheese(optional)1to2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoilfordrizzling

Turnagasgrilltohighorignitecharcoal.Whenyourgasgrillishotorthecoalshavebeguntoturngray,placetheplanchaonthegrillrackandheatforatleast10minutes.Keep the core and stalk in place until after you’ve sliced the cauliflower.

Withalargesharpknife,cutthecauliflowerheadintoslices,eachabout½inchthick.Cutawaythestalk(justthebaseofit)fromthebottomofeachslice.Witha knife or your fingers, give each cauliflower slab a good smear of softenedbutteroneachside.Sprinkleeachsidewithsaltandpepper.Place thecauliflowerslabson thehotplanchaandcookuntil theyshowa

nicecaramelizedcrust,5to6minutes.Whilethecauliflowercooks,halvethelemonsandplacethemcut-sidedownonthehotplanchaforabout2minutes.Remove from the grill and set the lemons aside.With a spatula, gently turneach cauliflower slab, and grill the other side until caramelized, another 5minutes.When both sides are golden brown, transfer the cauliflower slices to a

serving platter, drizzle with juice from the grilled lemon, and garnish withparsleyand, ifyou like,withasprinkleofParmesan.Drizzlewitholiveoilandservewhilehot.

GRILLEDBEEFCHILIServes10to12

This spicychilihas itsgameon, inpartbecause I cook itwith lard.Forthoseofyouwhoarethinking,“lard,noway,”holdonaminute.Lard has less saturated fat than butter and more flavor. You canalwayssubstituteoliveoil ifyou’renotupfor lard,buttry itmywayandseeifyoudon’tlikewhatlardcontributes. Masaharinamakesthechilia little thickerwhileaddingacomplexflavornote.Youcanfind it in Mexicanmarkets, supermarkets, or see Resources, page218. Cuttingachuckroastintocubestakestime.Askyourbutchertocutthebeefforyou,andsaveyourselftheeffort. Ilikethisdishspicy.Ifyoulikeamilderchili,halvetheamountofchilipowder.

3poundsbeefchuckroast,cutinto¾-inchcubes2teaspoonscoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt2teaspoonsfreshlygroundblackpepper1½teaspoonsgroundcinnamon3teaspoonsgroundcumin¼cupchilipowder¼cupmasaharina(seeheadnote)½cupplus2teaspoonsextra-virginoliveoil4jalapeñochiles4largeredonions,peeled¼cuplard(oranother¼cupoliveoil)2tablespoonsmincedgarlic(about6cloves)¼cuptomatopaste2teaspoonsdriedoreganoTwo12-ouncebottlesbeer,eitherdarkorlightbeerOne12-ouncecandicedtomato,juicesreserved1quartChickenBroth(page217)orlow-sodiumstore-boughtstockThree12-ouncecansblackbeans,drained

Turnagasgrilltohighorignitecharcoal.Whenyourgasgrillishotorthecoals

havebeguntoturngray,placetheplanchaorcast-ironpanonthegrillrackandheat for at least 10 minutes. While the plancha is heating, season the beefcubeswithsaltandpepperonallsides.Placeabouthalfofthebeefchunksonthehotplancha,andcookuntil the

beefhasbrownedoneveryside,4 to5minutes total, turning thecubeswithtongsora spatula tobrowneachside.Transfer thecookedbeef toabakingsheet,andadd the remainingbeefcubes to theplancha.Cook,browning themeatonall sides.Transfer thecookedbeef to thebakingsheetwith the firstbatchandsaveall the juices fromtheplancha.Take theplanchaoff theheat(placeitsomewheresafewherekidscan’ttouchit),butleavethegrillon.Inalargebowl,seasonthecookedbeefwith½teaspoonofthecinnamon,1

teaspoonof thecumin,and2tablespoonsof thechilipowder.Mixthespicesand beef cubeswith your hands or awooden spoon.When all the beef hasbeencoatedwithspices,addthemasaharinatothebowl,andmixagain.Setthebeefasidewhileyougrillthevegetables.Oil thewholechilesandonionswith2 teaspoonsof theoliveoil andgrill,

turningwithtongstocookallsides.Whentheskinhasblisteredandblackenedonthechiles,transfertoabrownpaperbag,sealupthebag,movethemawayfromtheheat,and let themsteamforabout10minutes.Take theonionsoffthegrillwhentheyshowsomechar,andletthemcool.Keepthegrillon.Whencoolenoughtohandle,dicetheonions.Peeltheskinfromthechiles,

anddiscard theskinandseeds.Mince thechiles.Keep theonionsandgarlicseparatefromthemincedchiles.Preheatacast-ironDutchovenonthegrillovermedium-highheat.Add¼

cupoftheoliveoiltothepan.Whentheoilishot,addhalfoftheseasonedbeeftothepan.Turnthebeefwithtongssoeverysidegetstheheat.Afterabout4minutes,transferthebeeffromthepantoabakingsheet.Addtheremaining¼cup of olive oil to the pan. Let it heat, then cook the remaining beef for anadditional4minutes.Transferthemeattothebakingsheetwiththefirstbatch,leavingthejuicesintheDutchoventosautéthevegetables.AddthelardtothehotDutchoven(oraddanother¼cupofoliveoil).When

thelardismelted,addtheonionsandgarlicandsautéuntiltheonionsstarttocaramelize,1to2minutes.Addthemincedchilesandcookforanotherminute.Stir in the tomato paste. Add the remaining 1 teaspoon of the cinnamon, 2teaspoonsofcumin,and2 tablespoonsofchilipowder (make theseheapingtablespoonsifyouwantarealkickofspice).Stirintheoreganoandthebeer.Stirinthedicedtomatoes,withanyjuicereservedfromthecan,andthenadd

thebeefcubes.Pourinthechickenbroth.Simmer,covered,onamediumgrillor over a medium fire until themeat is tender, about 1½ hours. Stir in thebeans.Cookuntilthebeansareheatedthrough,5to10minutes.Ladle the chili intomugsor bowls and servewith slicesofPolentaBread

slatheredwithBalsamicHoneyButter.

POLENTABREADANDBALSAMICHONEYBUTTERServes10to12

Thisbreadissogood,you’llwanttoserveitoften.Youcanbakeitinyouroven,butIliketocookitonthegrillsoIdon’thavetogointothekitchentocheckonit.Thisworksifyouhavealarge,verystablegrill.

Undernocircumstances shouldyouplacea largeheavypot on a grill that’s not sturdy enough to hold it. If youhaveanydoubts,cookthisbreadinyouroven(seeChef’sNote).

BALSAMICHONEYBUTTER

1cup(2sticks)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature6tablespoonshoney1teaspoonbalsamicvinegar

POLENTABREAD

1cup(2sticks)unsaltedbutter,plusmoreforgreasingthepan2cupsall-purposeflour1½cupsfinelygroundpolenta¼cupsugar2tablespoonsbakingpowder2teaspoonsbakingsoda1½teaspoonscoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt1cupgratedAsiagocheese⅓cupfinelyslicedgreenonions(greenpartonly)4eggs2cupsbuttermilk

FOR THE BALSAMIC HONEY BUTTER: With a stand mixer fitted with the paddleattachmentorinafoodprocessor,creamtogetherthesoftenedbutter,honey,

andvinegaruntilthevinegariscompletelystirredinandthebutterissmoothincolorandtexture.Spoonthe flavoredbutter intoacrockorservingbowlandrefrigerateforatleast1hour.Youcanmakethisseveraldaysaheadifyoulike.Keepittightlycoveredinthefridgeuntilyou’rereadytoservethebread.

FOR THE POLENTA BREAD: Turn on the grill to low (375°F is an idealtemperature),or ignitecharcoal.Spread thecoalswhen they’reglowing, anddon’tbegincookinguntilthecoalshaveburneddownalittle.Buttera5-quartDutchoven.Melt thebutter inasmall,heat-proofbowl in

themicrowave,andsetitasidetocool.Inthebowlofastandmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachmentorwithahand

mixer, combine the flour, polenta, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt,cheese, and greenonions just until the greenonions and cheese are evenlydistributed.Inaseparatebowl,whisktogethertheeggs,buttermilk,andmeltedbutter.

Withthemixeronmediumspeed,pourtheeggmixtureintothebowlwiththepolentamixtureinaslow,steadystream.Whenall theliquidhasbeenadded,mixfor1minuteonmediumspeedtoactivatethebakingpowder.SpreadthebatterintheDutchovenandtopwiththelid.Placethecovered

Dutchovenonthegrillrack,closethegrilllid,andletthebreadbakeuntilthetop is goldenbrownandgives some resistancewhen touched at the center,about1hour.Removethelidandtransfertoarackoraheat-proofcountertocoolfor10

minutes.Withmitts(theDutchovenwillbehotandheavy), tiltandrotatethepan,andgentlytapittoseeifthebreadreleasesfromthesides.Ifnot,runthebladeofasmallmetalspatulaalongthesidesofthepan.TiptheDutchovenonitssideanduseametalspatulatoremovethebread.Place thebreadon a cuttingboard, slice intowedges, and servewith the

BalsamicHoneyButter.

CHEF’SNOTE:Tobakeintheoven,preheattheovento350°F.Bakethebreadinthepanwiththelidonfor50to60minutes.Begincheckingthebreadafter50minutes.Thebreadisdonewhenit’sgoldenbrownandgivessomeresistancewhenpressedlightlyinthecenter.

GRILLEDCEVICHE-MARINATEDCALAMARIANDSHRIMPWITH

CANCHAPOPCORN

Serves6

InEcuador,cevicheisservedwithcanchaormaizchulpe(thenamechangesaccordingtotheregion)—driedkernelsofcorntossedinoilandthentoastedinaskilletuntiltheypuff.YouandIknowcanchaas“CornNuts.” I loved the flavor of cancha with ceviche but wantedsomethingthatsoakedupthemarinadealittlebetter.Icameupwithpopcorn tossed with ground-up Corn Nuts. You can laugh, but itworksverywellandifyouhidetheCornNutspackage,yourguestswill have a hard time figuring out that elusive, exotic flavor. Myversionofcevicheis“grillandchill.”It’snotdoneintheorderyou’dexpect.Yougrilltheseafoodverybrieflyandthenrefrigerate.Whileit’schilling,make themarinade,and toss it all together30minutesbefore serving. Make the marinade and grill the seafood the daybefore, if you like, but don’t combine them until you’re ready toserve. Thisrecipeisagoodoneforpeoplewhoarealittleuneasyabouttrueceviche,inwhichtheseafoodisnevertouchedbyheat.

3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil1poundcalamari,cleanedandsplit(askyourfishmongertodothisforyou)

1poundlarge(about16perpound)shrimp,peeledanddeveined1teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

3wholetomatoes2mediumredbellpeppers1serranochile1largeyellowonion,peeledandslicedinto½-inch-thickwholerounds¼teaspoongratedlemonzest2tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice¼teaspoongratedorangezest3tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedorangejuice¼cupextra-virginoliveoil½teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt

⅛teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

CANCHAPOPCORN

¼cupCornNuts¼cuppeanutoil⅓cupuncookedpopcornkernels¼teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt2teaspoonsfinelychoppedfreshcilantro,optional

Turnagasgrilltohighorignitecharcoal.Whenyourgasgrillishotorthecoalshavebeguntoturngray,placetheplanchaoralargecast-ironpanonthegrillrackandheatforatleast10minutes.While theplanchaheats,drizzle theoliveoilover thecalamariandshrimp

andseasonwiththesaltandpepper.Onthehotplancha,grillthecalamarifirst.It’sdonewhenitgetsjustalittlecolorandbeginstocurl,about1½minutesforthemainpiecesand2minutesforthetentacles.Takeitofftheheatwithtongs,letcool,andthenrefrigerate.Cooktheshrimpontheplanchaorinapanjustuntiltheybegintoturnpink,

1½to2minutesoneachside.Removefromheat,letcool,andrefrigerate.Take the plancha off the heat (place it somewhere safe where kids can’t

touchit)butleavethegrillon.Ifusingagasgrill,decreasetheheattomedium.CutanXinthebottomofeachtomatoandplacethemonthegrillawayfromdirectheat,withtheX-sideup.Turnthemafter2minutesusingtongsoraspatula.Addthebellpeppers,theserranochile,and theonionslices to thegrillandcover thegrill.After3 to4minutes,turnthetomatoes,onions,andchileandclosethelidagain.Take the tomatoes off the grill when they are blistered but still hold their

shape,about8minutes.Takethechileoffthegrillwhenit’sblisteredallover,afterabout10minutes.Putitinapaperbagthat’slargeenoughtoholditandallthepeppers,andfoldupthetopofthebag.Keepcookingthebellpeppersuntilthey’reblackenedallthewayaround,15to18minutes,thenaddthemtothebagwiththechileandletthemsteam.Grilltheonionslicesuntiltheyshowdarkcoloroneachside,about18minutestotal.Whenthetomatoeshavecooledenoughtohandle,peelawaytheskinand

discard. Halve the tomatoes horizontally and squeeze out the seeds into asieve suspendedoverabowl to catch the juices.Peel thepeppersandchileanddiscardtheskins.

Coarsely chop about half of the tomatoes, peppers, chile, andonions andplace intoablender.Addany liquidsavedfromthetomatoes.Addthe lemonandorangejuicesandzests,oliveoil,salt,andpepper,andblenduntilsmooth.Theliquidintheblenderwillbethemarinadefortheseafood.Finelychoptheremaining tomatoes, peppers, chile, and onions, and refrigerate. The dicedvegetableswillgarnishtheplatterwhenyou’rereadytoserve.

Thirtyminutes before serving, toss the calamari and shrimp in themarinadewith all the reserved diced vegetables in a serving bowl. Refrigerate to chill,whileyoumakethepopcorn.(Thisisbestwithfresh,hotpopcorn,sodon’tpopthecornuntilyou’realmostreadytoserve.)FORTHEPOPCORN:First,grindtheCornNutsinacleancoffeegrinderorspicegrinderandsetaside.Pourthepeanutoil intoa largepotwithacoverandplaceoverhighheat.

When theoil ishot, add thepopcornandcover thepot.Take thepotoff theheatwhenthepoppingslowsdown.In a bowl, toss the fresh popcorn, the ground Corn Nuts, salt, and the

cilantro,ifusing.

Pour the cancha popcorn over the seafood, and serve right away while thecevicheiscoldandthepopcorniswarm.

GRILLEDMUSHROOMSWITH

SAUSAGES,ONIONS,ANDPEPPERSServes6to8

Thisdishhasa lotofmeaning formebecause it speaksaboutmyancestorsinItalyaswellasthemushroomhuntingI’vedonehereinCalifornia.Thisfoodconnectsthosetwopointsintimeandthosetwogroupsofpeople,theCalabriansandtheirAmericandescendants.WhenImakethis,IthinkofmydaughterFelicia,who,likeme,keepsmanyofthesefoodmemories.Felicia leadswithherheart,andhasthesoulofanartist.Havinganartist’ssouldoesn’talwaysmakeforacalm life, but Felicia experiences every daywith all her being, andinspires me to see old things in new ways. Having Felicia as adaughterbringsmemuchjoy.

3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreasneeded8linkshotorsweetsausage,preferablyCalabrese1poundmushrooms,stemmedandcutinto½-inchjulienne(juliennethestemstoo)

Coarseseasalt,preferablygraysaltFreshlygroundblackpepper3sweetonions,cutinto½-inch-thickslices3redbellpeppers,cored,seeded,andcutinto½-inchjulienne2teaspoonsdriedoregano1tablespoonchoppedfreshflat-leafparsley

Turnagasgrilltohighorignitecharcoal.Whenyourgasgrillishotorthecoalshave turnedgray,place theplanchaorabigcast-ironskilleton thegrill rackandheatuntilsmokinghot,atleast10minutes.Pourintheoliveoil.Brown the sausageson theplanchaor in thepan; remove them from the

panandsetaside.Addmoreoiltothepanifneeded.Addthemushrooms,and

sprinkle on some salt and pepper. Let them cook without moving them forabout7minutes.Whenthey’vecaramelized,stir themushroomsandaddtheonionsandbellpeppersandalittlemoresaltandblackpepper.Letthemcookuntil all the vegetables are gorgeously caramelized. Sprinkle on the oreganoand parsley, and put the sausages back on top of the vegetables on theplanchaorinthepan.Thisdishisveryflexible;afteralongdayofmushroomhuntingyouhaveto

beflexible.Servewhenready.

POTATOPOLPETTE,TWOWAYSMakes8polpette

Whatdoyoudowithleftovermashedpotatoes?Imakepolpette.Formymoney, apolpetta—acroquetteofmashedpotatoeswith asavoryfilling—trumpsanyotherkindofpotatodishhandsdown.Thebeautyof apolpetta is that it’s versatile: you canmake these fromjust about any leftovers in your fridge. It’s especially good withleftovers fromthegrill. I’llshowyoutwoways to fillapolpetta—butdon’t stopwith these fillings.Trygrilledsquash, sweetpotatoes,orthinlyslicedgrilledasparagus. Youcanuseamoldsuchasaroundramekin or the lid of a wide-mouthed canning jar to help shapeconsistent patties (see Shaping Burgers, page 66). Halve thisrecipe if you’recooking for twoor threepeople.Atmyhouse,kidsfrom ages six to twenty-eight stay close to the kitchenwhen theyknowI’mcookingpolpette. Ilikethesmokyflavorthattheygetbycooking them outdoors, but polpette can be cooked just as easilyinsideatthestove.

3poundsrussetpotatoes5quartswater,plusmoreifneeded5tablespoonskoshersalt½teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt,ifneeded¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepperWildMushroomFilling(follwing)orProsciuttoandDriedFruitFilling(following)

6tablespoonssesameseeds,toasted(ifusingmushroomfilling;seeChef’sNote),or6tablespoonspoppyseeds(ifusingprosciuttofilling)

Extra-virginoliveoil2to3tablespoonsbutter(ifcookingatthestove)

Peelthepotatoes,andcutthemintolargechunks.Putthepotatoesinalarge

potandcoverthemwiththewater.Addthekoshersalttothewater,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Decreasetheheattomediumandboilgentlyuntilthepotatoesaretender,about10minutes.Preheattheovento325°F.When thepotatoescanbepiercedeasilywitha fork,drain them.Transfer

withaslottedspoontoa largesturdybakingsheet(twobakingsheets if theywon’t fit easily on one). Place the sheets in the oven and bake until thepotatoeshave lostmostof theirmoisture, about5minutes.Let thepotatoescoolandthenpressthrougharicer.Ifyoudon’thavearicer,pushthepotatoesthrough the large holes of a box grater (watch your fingers) or a colander.Taste the potatoes to see how salty they are; if you taste salt, decrease theamountofsaltusedinthefillings.Shapethepotatoesinto16patties,each3½to 4 inches in diameter. Each patty will contain about ¼ cup of mashedpotatoes.Spoonabout2tablespoonsofthefillingontooneofthepotatopatties.Top

withanotherpattyandgentlypattheedgestoseal.Repeatuntilall16pattieshavebeenformedinto8polpette.Sprinklewithpepperbutdon’taddmoresaltatthispointunlessthepotatoestastebland.Pour some seeds onto a piece of plastic wrap or parchment paper and

spreaditwithyourfingers.Placethepolpettaontotheseeds,sprinklemoreoftheseedsonthetop,andlightlypresstheseedswithyourfingerstohelpthemadheretobothsides.

TOCOOKTHEPOLPETTEONTHEPLANCHA:Turnagasgrilltohighorignitecharcoal.When your gas grill is hot or the coals have begun to turn gray, place theplanchaonthegrillrackandheatforatleast10minutes.Pouralittleoliveoilonapapertowelandrubdowntheplancha,usingtongs

toholdthetowel.Placeasmanypolpetteontheplanchaascanfit.Cookuntilacrustformsonthepotatoes,about4minutes.Gentlyturnwitha

spatulaandcookuntilacrustformsontheotherside.

TO COOK THE POLPETTE AT THE STOVE: Heat a griddle, large cast-iron skillet, orsaucepan over high heat. Add 1 tablespoon of extra-virgin olive oil and 1tablespoonofbuttertothepan.Whentheoilishot,addthreeorfourpolpette.Cook until a crust forms on the potatoes, 5 to 6minutes.Gently turnwith aspatulaandcookuntilacrustformsontheotherside.Whenabatchofpolpetteisdoneandtransferredtoaservingplatter,clean

outthepanwithapapertowelandaddanother1tablespoonofoliveoiland1tablespoonofbutterbeforecookinganotherbatch.

GRILLINGISN’TJUSTFORBIGEXPENSIVECUTSOFMEAT.WITHALITTLECREATIVITY,LEFTOVERSCANBENEFITFROMSOMETIMEONTHEFIRE.

WILDMUSHROOMFILLING

TheChiarellosareafamilyofmushroomhunters.Ifwecomehomewithalotofwildmushrooms, you canbet that polpettewill put in an appearance thatweek.

¼poundshiitakeorothermushrooms1½tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil½teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper½teaspoonfinelychoppedfreshthyme

Trim off themushroom stems. (Shiitake stems are toowoody to use in thisfilling; if you’re using other mushroom varieties, dice and use the trimmedstemsaftercuttingoffthetoughstembottom.)Dicethemushroomcaps.Heatasaucepanoverhighheatuntilit’shot.Addtheoliveoil,andheatuntil

the oil is hot but not smoking. Add themushrooms to the hot oil and don’tmovethemuntil theyarecaramelized,8 to10minutes.Once thebottomsofthemushroomsshowsomegooddarkbrowncolor,thenyoucanstirthem.Addthesalt,pepper,andthyme.Cookfor1moreminuteandthentakeoff

theheat.Letcoolslightlybeforeyoufillthepolpette.

CHEF’S NOTE: In a dry saucepan over medium-high heat, toast the sesameseeds.Whenyoubegintosmelltheirfragrance,takethepanofftheheatand

pourthesesameseedsontoaplateorpieceofparchmentpapertocool.

PROSCIUTTOANDDRIEDFRUITFILLING

Use prosciutto bits for this recipe, not paper-thin prosciutto slices. Ask yourbutcherorthedelipersonifyoucanbuythewhole“heel”oftheprosciutto,andthenchopitinto⅛-inchpiecesoraskthebutchertocoarselygrinditforyou.

½cupdriedfruit,preferablyapricot,pear,peach,oracombination1cupwater2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter¼poundchunkprosciutto,cutinto⅛-inchbits(seeheadnote)¼teaspoonmincedfreshrosemary¼teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2teaspoonswhitebalsamicvinegar

Soak thedried fruit in the1cupwater tosoften,30 to60minutes.Drain thefruitandpatdrywithpapertowels.Dicethefruitandsetaside.Heatthebutterinasaucepanovermedium-highheat.Whenit’smelted,add

theprosciuttobitsandcookuntil theybegin tobrown,about5minutes.Addthe minced rosemary, dried fruit, salt, and pepper and cook for 1 minute.Deglaze thepanwith thevinegar, and turnoff theheat.Tasteandaddmoresaltandpepperifneeded.Letcoolslightlybeforeyoufillthepolpette.

ROASTEDLEMONGRANITAMakes2cups

When you roast lemons, the juice tastes completely different fromthe juice of raw lemons. The more complex and layered flavormeans the juice of roasted lemons works well in a granita.Comparedtothetinycrystalsofasorbetorgelato,thelargercrystalsof a granita last longer on your tongue, so you get a moreconcentratedroastedlemon-sugarflavor.Ifyou’remoreafanoficecreamthangranita,pour the roasted lemon juice intoyour favoriteicecreambase.

12lemons¼teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt,orkoshersalt2tablespoonshoney¾cupsugar¾cupwater2staranise1teaspoonaniseseedPinchoffreshlygroundblackpepper

GRILLINGORROASTINGLEMONS

Becausetheacidityinlemonscanclashwithagoodwine,I’mabigfanofroastinglemonstobringdowntheiracidity.Roastingiseasy.Justhalvethelemonscrosswiseattheirmidsection

andputthemonthehotgrillrackorplancha,cut-sidedown.Letthemroastuntiltheyshowagoodamountofchar,3to5minutesdependingontheheatofthecoals,thentakethemofftheheatusingtongs.Youcan also use the tongs to squeeze the hot lemons over a strainer,capturingallthejuiceyoucan.The juice of roasted lemons is especially good over vegetables:

drizzle it overbroccoli rabeor steamedcauliflower aswell asover aroastedchicken,freshcrab,oranyfreshfish.

Turnagasgrilltohighorignitecharcoal.Whenyourgasgrillishotorthecoalshavebeguntoturngray,placetheplanchaonthegrillrackandheatforatleast10minutes.

Sliceathinsectionfromthebaseandtopofeachlemon(sotheycanstandwithoutwobbling)andhalveeachlemoncrosswiseatitsmidsection.Placethelemonscut-sidedownonthehotplancha.(Youcanalsoputthem

rightonthegrillrackorinacast-ironpansetoverthegrillorcampfire.)Grilluntilthecutsideshowssomecharandthelemonslookplumper,about

3to5minutesdependingontheheatofyourfire.(IfIwantasmokierflavor,I’llturnthelemonsovertogetsomeheatontheirstemendsaswell.)Takethemoff theheatandusetongstopressthehot lemonsagainstafine-meshsieveheld over a bowl, capturing all the juice. The juicewill contain tiny flecks ofchar,butthat’sfine.Stirinthesalt.

In a small saucepan, heat 1⅓ cups of the roasted lemon juice (save anyleftoverjuiceforanotheruse)overmediumheat.Increasetheheattohighandstir in the honey, sugar, the¾ cup water, star anise, anise seed, and blackpepper.Whenitcomestoaboil,pourthroughafine-meshstrainerintoalargebowl.Freezetheliquidina13-by-9-inchmetalbakingpan,stirringwithaforkand

breaking apart any lumpsof ice every30minutes. Itwill take at least 3 to4hoursforthemixturetosolidify.Don’tletitfreezesolid:eachtimeyoustirthegranita,setatimerfor30minutessoyoudon’tforgetaboutit.Onceit’sfrozento theconsistencyofaslushie,cover thepanwithplasticwrap. It canstay inyourfreezerforupto3days.Justslushitupwithaforkwhenyou’rereadytoserve.

CHEF’SNOTE:Whenserving,drizzleona little lemonvodkaforamore intenselemon flavor. I recommend Charbay Meyer Lemon Vodka; see Resources,page218.

DINNERATTHELAKE

WhenIwasakid,troutfishingwasatreatIgottodowithmy big brother Ron.He taughtme how to fishand how to cook fish over a campfire. Ron called itcooking hobo-style (see followingnote) because nospecial equipment was needed. He would pack foilandseasonings inhisbackpackwitha fewpotatoesand apples. You had to catch your own dinner. Thewholemealcametogetheroutofonepackandwhatwecaught.Icanrecalleverydetailofthelasttimewedidthis:

amoonsobright it lit thehikingtrail,pullingthefishout of the lake early in themorning, setting up ourfire.Thesedays,whenIcooktrout,IthinkofRon,andthosememoriesgivethefishextraflavor.Whenyoutakeyourkids—oryouryoungerbrother

—camping,oryoucookforfriendsaroundacampfire,youaregiving them flavors that theywill be able torecalldecadeslater.Theirfishwilltastealittlebetterfromthatdayforward,andsowillyours.

MENU

Nonna’sRoastedGarlicBread

Fresh-CaughtTroutCookedinFoil

Foil-WrappedEmber-RoastedBeetswithGoatCheese

Rosemary-LemonBars

MeyerLemonVerbenaWater

Back in the early part of the nineteenth century, hobos were nothomelesspeoplebutmigrants—workerswhojumpedonboardfreighttrains insearchofanyworkthatpaid.Somepeoplebelievethewordhobowasfirstusedtorefertosoldierstryingtomaketheirwayhomeon trains after the Civil War, but hobo was most often used in theUnitedStatesaftertheGreatDepression. Hoboandhomelessarenotthesamething.Ahobo’slifewashardbutnowherenearashardaslifeisforthehomelessinourcountrytoday. I’mabigsupporterofMealson Wheels and Clinic Olé. For more information on these greatorganizations,gotowww.mowaa.orgorwww.clinicole.org.

NONNA’SROASTEDGARLICBREAD

Serves8to10

Youprobablyexpectaloafofhomemadebreadhere,butno.Mynonnaknewagoodbakerandsheboughthisbreadandthencoal-roastedherowngarlicforhergarlicbread.Youdon’tneedtoreinventthewheel.This isgreat foracamping tripas longasyoumake ityour firstnightout.

Beforeyouleavehome,makeacompoundbutterfromthegarlicpaste,thyme,andsoftenedbutter,rollitintoalog,wrapinaluminumfoil,andfreezeit.Takeitoutofthefreezerandstoreinacoolerforthecampingtrip.Remembertotakethe butter out of the cooler when you start the fire, so it’s soft enough tospread.

½cupRoastedGarlicPaste(page212)½cup(1stick)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshthymeOne2-poundloafciabattaorbâtard,halvedlengthwise

Stirtogetherthegarlicpaste,softenedbutter,andfreshthyme.Eitherrollitintoalogandfreezeitorsetitasidetouserightaway.Acompoundbutterwillkeepinyourfreezerforupto1month.Havereadyacampfireoracharcoal firethat is turningtoashor turnyour

gas grill to high. When the fire is hot, clean the grill rack. Decrease thetemperature tomedium-high, and brush or wipe a little olive oil on the grillrack.Toastbothcrustandcutsidesofthebreadonagrillpansetoveracampfire,

ahotgrill rack,agrillpanon thestove,orunderyourbroiler.Toastuntilgrillmarksshoworuntilthebreadisgoldenbrownandtoasty,about4minutesperside.Spread thebuttermixtureonto thecut sideof the toastedbread.Put itback on the grill rack or grill pan with the buttered side up for just 1 to 2minutes.(Ifusingagrill,closethelidforthelastminute.)Sliceandserve.

FRESH-CAUGHTTROUTCOOKEDINFOIL

Serves4

Optimally,yourtroutwillweighabout¾poundeach,butthisrecipeworksnomatterhowbigorsmallyourfishendsupbeing.Justremembertoaddafewincheswhenyoutellpeoplehowbigthefishwere.If youarebuying fish, ask your fishmonger to cleananddebone them for

you.

4trout,about¾poundeach(seeheadnote)About3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil2lemons,thinlysliced4tablespoonsfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves,stemmed4teaspoonsfreshtarragonCoarseseasalt,preferablygraysaltFreshlygroundblackpepper

Startacampfire,ignitecharcoal,orturnthegasgrilltohigh.Scalethefishandliftoutthebones.Leavethetailintactbutcutoffthefins.

Rinsethefishinsideandoutwithcoolwaterandpatdrywithpapertowels.Haveready12sheetsofaluminumfoil,each16incheslong.Foreachfish,

stack twosheetsofaluminumfoilandhavea thirdsheetof foil ready for thetop.Drizzleabout1teaspoonoliveoilonthetopsheetoffoilandplacethefishontopskin-sidedown.Openthefishandarrangethreetofivethinlemonslicesinside—enoughsothetrouthas lemonfromendtoend.Drizzleonanother1teaspoon olive oil and sprinkle with 1 tablespoon parsley leaves and 1teaspoon fresh tarragon. Sprinkle with sea salt and pepper. Place the thirdsheetoffoilontopofthefish,thenneatlyfoldeachsideintoafoilpacket,usingthebottomlayersoffoiltocloseandsealthetopsheetoffoilinplace.Whenthecoalsaremoregraythanred,putthefoilpacketsrightontopthe

coals(orcookonagasgrillsettomedium).Shovelsomecoalsfromtheedgeofthefireoverthepacketstocoverthemorfillagrillbasketwithhotcoalsandrest the grill basket on top of the fish packets. Roast the fish for about 4minutes. Take one packet out of the fire and open it to see if the fish looksdone—whenit’sopaqueandmorewhitethanpink.Ifit’sstillpinkinside,rewrapthefishandputitbackonthecoalsforanother2to3minutes.Takethepacketsoutofthecoals, letthemcoolforat least2minutes,and

thenleteachpersonunwraptheirownfish.

FOIL-WRAPPEDEMBER-ROASTEDBEETSWITHGOATCHEESEServes4

For a camping trip, scrub and package the beets in two large aluminum foilpacketsbeforeyou leavehome,sothey’rereadyfor thefire. I triple-wrapthebeets in foil so there’s less chance of beet-to-ash contact. You can formpacketsaswedidwiththetrout(seepage120)oryoucanwrapthefoilintoa

shapelikeabeggar’spurse.Ifyou’recookingtheseathomeonagasgrill,settheheattomedium,and

putthepacketsinthecenterofthegrillrackuntilthebeetsaretender,about45minutes.

VINAIGRETTE

1tablespoonChampagnevinegar2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil½teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

MARINATEDGOATCHEESE

3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil3teaspoonschoppedfreshrosemary3tablespoonsgratedlemonzest(fromabout3lemons)½teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepperFour2-ounceroundssoftchèvregoatcheese

1½poundsbabybeets,preferablyamixofredandyellow5tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil2teaspoonscoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

FORTHEVINAIGRETTE:Whisktogetherthevinegar,oliveoil,salt,andpepper.Setaside.

FORTHEGOATCHEESE:Whisktogethertheoliveoil,rosemary, lemonzest,salt,andpepper.Spoonhalfofthemarinadeintoabakingdishwithacoveroranycontainerwith a tight-fitting lid. Place the goat cheese rounds on top of themarinade and spoon the remaining marinade over the top. Cover andrefrigerate forat least1hourorovernight. If you’re taking thisonacampingtrip,mix thecheeseandmarinade justbeforeyou leavehome,andpack it inyourcooler.

Cleanandtrimthetopofeachbeet, leavingabout1 inchofgreenstem. Inalarge bowl, toss the beets with olive oil and a generous amount of salt andpepper.Dividethebeetsintotwobatches;you’llmaketwofoilpacketsinall.

Havereadysixsheetsofaluminumfoil,eachabout20incheslong.Arrangethe foil sheets into two 3-sheet stacks. Divide the seasoned beets into twobatchesandplaceonebatchoneachfoilstack.Pullupthesidesofthefoilandtwistatthetop.Place the packets in the embers of the campfire after the fire has died

down. Let them cook until the beets are tender but not too soft, about 45minutes.Carefullyopenapacketandpierceabeetwithaknifetotestifbeetsare done. Let them cool for at least 10minutes in their packets before youunwrapthem.Ifyoulikeyoucanpopthebeetsoutoftheirskinsbeforecuttingthemintoquarters.Place a round of goat cheese on each of four plates. Divide the beets

among the plates next to the cheese and and drizzlewith vinaigrette beforeserving.

ROSEMARY-LEMONBARSServes16

Acrossbetweenstandardlemonbarsandlemoncake,thisdesserttravelswell,so it’sagoodaddition tocamping tripsoradayat thebeach.Finelymincedrosemarygivesitanherbalnotethatcomplementsthelemon.Formoresubtlerosemaryflavoruse2teaspoons. Iuseafull1tablespoonforabiggerherbalpunch.Whenthecakeiswarmyou’lltastemoreoftherosemarythanwhenit’scooled.It’sgoodeitherway.

1½cupsall-purposeflour½teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt1cup(2sticks)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,plusmoreforgreasingthepan

2cupsgranulatedsugar4eggs2teaspoonspurelemonextract(optional)2teaspoonsgratedlemonzest1tablespoonmincedfreshrosemary(seeheadnote)

LEMONGLAZE

1cupconfectioners’sugar3tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice2teaspoonsgratedlemonzest

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 13-by-9-by-2-inch baking pan and setaside.Sifttogethertheflourandthesaltandsetaside.Inthebowlofastandmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachmentorwithahand

mixer, cream the butter and granulated sugar on medium speed until themixturelookspaleyellowandcreamy,about3minutes.Addtheeggs,oneatatime,beatingfor30secondsaftereachegg.Addthelemonextract,zest,andthe rosemary. Gradually add the flour mixture, while continuing to beat atmediumspeed.Mixfor30secondsafterthemixtureisblended.Pour the batter into the buttered pan and bake until the cake is a light

goldenbrownontopandaskewercomesoutcleanwhentestedinthecenterofthecake,30to40minutes.

FOR THEGLAZE:Combine the confectioners’ sugar, lemon juice, and zest in amediumbowl,stirringwithawoodenspoonuntilsmooth.

Whenthecakecomesoutoftheoven,piercetheentiretopwiththetinesofaforkinevenrows,thenpourontheglazewhilethecakeisstillhot.Cutinto16squaresandservewarmoratroomtemperature.

ONEPERFECTCOCKTAILFORFIRSTNIGHT

I went on a fishing trip to Montana with a group of friends thatincluded renowned vintner Dan Duckhorn. Dan carried a cooleronboard theplanebutwouldn’t tell uswhatwas inside.Thatnight,whenour fishwasover the fire,Danopened thecoolerandpulledoutan ice-coldcocktail shaker, alongwith iceand themakings foroneperfectlychilled,deliciouscocktailforeachofus.That made a big impression on me. There’s something about

havingawell-considered cocktailwhen you’re sittingbeside a fire,with a tent as your lodging, thatmakes thedrink tasteevenbetterthan usual. My favorite first-night cocktail is the Highwayman’sMojito(page203),butI’vealsomadeDanDuckhorn’sfavoritedrink(see page 200) formy fishing buddies. Bring a cocktail likeDan’sandyou’llbeafirst-nightheroevenifyourcatchisn’tasbigasyou’dhoped.

CHAPTERFIVE

LIVEFIRE:THEFIREPIT

The fire pit offers a more communal sort of cooking thanstandingoveragrill.Icookentiremealsovermyfirepitandbarbecue is just thestart.Youcan letapotofchickenstewsimmerorbakebeansItalianstylebyhangingthepotfromahookover the fire. The fire pit is also a goodplace to cookandshareahotappetizer,ortomakes’moresunderthestars.When you cook outside, the pace is slower; there’s a

tendencytorelaxalittlemore,andletthefiredothework.Ifyouhaveguests,it’smorecomfortabletocookatthefirepitwhile they enjoy the experience with you. When you cookoutsidebythefirepit,youdon’tmissasmuch.Yougettofeela breeze on your face, hear the wind rustling through theleaves—thingsyoumisswhenyoucookindoors.

GrilledItalianPeppersStuffedwithSausageSkeweredMortadellaandProvoloneGrilledPeach-NectarineMostarda3-LiterOOCanMusselsandGypsyPeppersCostolettadiBovaro(ItalianCowboySteaks)withSalsaVerdeGrilledChickenStewandDumplingsS’moreswithEspressoMarshmallows

WHYAFIREPITISMYFAVORITESTOVE

Peopleaskmeall thetimewhichstove Iprefer. If thebeststove isthe one that can generate the most heat and give me the mostcontrol, thenmyfavoritestovemightbemyfirepit.Thefirepitcanreach a very high temperature. I can raise and lower the racks tobring the foodcloser to theheat for fastercookingor fartherawayforalow,slowroast. Bestofall,thecrowdthathangsaroundthestove insidemyhouse fitsbetter around the firepitoutside.WhenI’minsidecooking,Ilovehavingpeoplegatheredaround,butifIfindmyselftrippingoversomeone’sfeet,thencookingbecomeslessfun,morefrustration.

HOWTOBUY(ORBUILD)AFIREPITWhenIsay“firepit”fourdifferentpeoplewillhavefourdifferentideasofwhatI’mtalkingabout.Theoriginalfirepit,abasicholeintheground,waslinedwithleaves or rocks and then covered once the food was added so the groundactedasinsulation,holdingintheheat.We’renotcookingoverthatkindoffirepit;althoughit’satime-honoredwayofcooking,Idon’tfeellikediggingapit.Thesedaysyoucanbuyafirepit,haveitshippedtoyou,andputittogether

innotime.Thehigh-endfirepitthatwe’reusinginthisbookiscustom-made,builtwithalowcircularbrickwallandasturdymetalframethatholdsgratesaswellasastrongmetalhookforholdingapotofchili(seepage108)orchickenanddumplingsover the fire (seepage141). If youdon’t haveaccess to thiskindoffirepit,fliptopage219toseeourlow-endfirepit.Ibuiltthisfirepitinanhour inmybackyardusingordinarybricks. If youhaveagrateandbricks,thenthefirepitiswithinyourreachandaffordable,aswellaseasytotakeapartandstore.Ifyoualreadyhaveafirepitbutdon’thaveagrateforit,youcanhavegrates

custom-made.(SeeResources,page218.)Beforeyoudothat,checkwiththemanufacturertoseeiftheysellgratesfortheirfirepit,andeventakeatriptoyour local hardware store to see if they might sell a grate that fits your

equipment.Remember that youcontrolheatovera firepit in twoways:Youcan raise or lower the food away from the flame, or you can spread out thecoalsorglowinglogstoreducetheheatabit.Ifyoudon’thaveagrate,youcanstillcookoverafirepit.Lookatthebeef

cooked on lances on pages 136 and 138. Flip to page 85 and see howwecooked quail on branches. Thinking about how people cooked hundreds ofyearsagocansparksomecreativity.Youcouldspendthousandstore-createyour kitchenoutdoorsbut don’t do it. There ismuchmore satisfaction tobefoundincookingwithwhat’sonhand.

THEFIREPITFIREBuilda firepit fire just as youwoulda campfireor a fire in yourhearth.SeeHowtoStartaFire,page26.Beforeburninganywood,seeWoodstoNeverCookOver,page19.Checkthatyourwoodsupplyiswellstockedbeforeyoustartthefire.There’s a time lag between when you start the fire pit fire and when it’s

ready for cooking. Don’t cook over flames ever. Let the fire peak and then,whenthelogsareglowingandthere’sasteady,evensourceofheat,that’sthetimetobegincooking.Theonetemptationthatyouwanttoavoidwithafirepitistostartthefireandthenwalkawaytocompletesomeothertask.

I like to bring my knives, cutting boards, and bowlsoutside, and work next to the fire. If you can’t do this,haveanother adult sit by the fire andkeepaneyeon itwhileyou’reinthekitchen.

LETTHEFIREPEAKANDTHEN,WHENTHELOGSAREGLOWINGANDTHERE’SASTEADY,EVENSOURCEOFHEAT,THAT’STHETIMETOBEGINCOOKING.

GRILLEDITALIANPEPPERSSTUFFEDWITHSAUSAGEServes8

Iliketocookwithawidevarietyofpeppers;it’sthefirstthingIlookforwhenIhitthefarmers’market.Whenyoufindpeppersthatlookbeautiful,this isagoodwaytousethem.It’shardtogowrongwithpeppers stuffed with sausage. You can use either hot or sweetsausage,andthis recipewillworkwith justaboutanypepper, frombig red bells to small Gypsy peppers. Once you’ve stuffed thepeppers, you can finish them at your fire pit, on the grill, on theplancha, at the hearth, in a grill pan on your stove, or in a wood-burningoven.

4tablespoonskoshersalt16Italiansweetgreenpeppersoranybellpepper2poundsbulkItaliansausage,eithersweetorhot3tablespoonsfinelygratedParmesancheese1½teaspoonsdriedoregano2tablespoonschoppedfreshflat-leafparsley2tablespoonschoppedfreshbasil,minced1½cupsfinelydicedonion1½cupsfinedriedbreadcrumbs1¼cupscoolwater2eggs

2cupGrilledTomatoSauce(page215)

Start a fire in a firepit (or start agasor charcoalgrill).Staynearby (orhaveanother adult stay near), until the flames have died down, and the fire bedprovidesanevenheatsource.Ifcookingonagrillrack,cleanitonceit’shot.Ifusing a plancha, put it on the rack or directly on the fire about 10minutesbeforeyou’rereadytocook.

Inside,on thestove,heatabout4quartsofwater ina largepotoverhighheat.Addthekoshersalt.Sliceoff thestemend fromeachpepperanddiscard it.Gentlyscrapeout

theseedsandcutouttheribswithasmallparingknife,takingcarenottobreakthepepper.Youwanteachpeppertobewholeforstuffing.When thewater in thepotboils, addall thepeppers.Let themcook for4

minutes,thenusingtongs,transferthepepperstoabakingsheettocool.Formthesausagemeatintosixtoeightsausagepatties,eachabout¼inch

thick. Either on the grill rack or in a sauté pan, cook the patties until they’rebrownonbothsides,about5minutes.Letthemcool.When cool enough to handle, dice the sausage meat. In a large bowl

combine themeat, cheese, oregano, parsley, basil, onion, bread crumbs, the1¼ cups water, and eggs, using your hands or a wooden spoon, until allingredientsareevenlydistributed.With a spoon or your fingers, gently stuff each pepper with the meat

mixture.Fill to½ inch from the topof thepepper.Any leftovermeat canbestoredinthefreezerforupto1month.Place thepeppersontoahotgrill rack,grill pan,orplancha.Use tongs to

turn themwhen the skin begins to darken, about every 2minutes. Cook forabout8minutesinall.Warmthetomatosaucewhilethepepperscook.Toserve,takethestuffedpeppersoffthefire,arrangeinaservingdish,and

pouronthewarmtomatosauce.

SANDWICHVARIATION:Toastahoagie rollor Italianbun.Topeach toastedbunwith one or two grilled stuffed peppers. Add a slice of provolone while thepeppersarehotsoitmelts,andfinishwithagenerousdrizzleofwarmtomatosauce.

SKEWEREDMORTADELLAANDPROVOLONEServes8

IfIhadtochoosejustoneguiltypleasureforthisbook,thiswouldbeit. This dish reminds me of my mom and the day a friend fromchurch introduced her to fried bologna. Shewas so excited aboutfryingherownbologna. I havea vividmemoryofher snipping theedgesof theperfectly roundbolognasliceso itwouldn’tcurlup inthepan.This,fromawomanwhomadeherownwine,pickles,pasta,and even prosciutto. The thing was, we never ate foods like“boloney.” To a kid who grew up on homemade gnocchi andNonna’ssauce,friedbolognaseemedexotic. Yearsaftermymomdied, I was in Italy, walking through Bologna, in Emilia-Romagna,whenIsawsomeoneeatingamortadellasteakthatwaseasilythree-quartersofaninchthick,cutintowedgeswithacreamycheeseoverthetop.Itstruckmelikeaboltoflightning,thelinkbetweenBolognaand Italian bologna, which is called mortadella. Even thehomogenizedsupermarketbolognathatmostAmericansknowhadits roots here, in the Italy of long ago when meats had to bepreserved so therewas enough to eat in thewinter. I stood therefeeling as if I’d come full circle from the day my mom first friedbolognainourkitchenwhenIwasaboy. Forthisdish,you’llhaveto go to an authentic Italian deli to buy the mortadella; ask thebutcher to slice it intoone-inch-thick rounds. When the skewerscomeoff theheat, IpourmyselfacoldbeeroraglassofunoakedChardonnay and am completely happy, sitting back with my ownversionoffriedbolognawhileIspendafewmomentsthinkingaboutmymom. Pleasenote:Ineverwasteafire.Tobuildafireforjustthisonedishwouldbreakmymother’sheart.Instead,Iplanawholemeal to be cooked at the fire pit, and start with these. These are

greatasasnackwhileyoustartcookingthechili(seepage108)orchickenanddumplings(seepage141).

1½poundsmortadella,cutinto1-inch-thickrounds1½poundsprovolonecheese¼cupextra-virginoliveoil1tablespoondriedoregano2teaspoonsCalabrianchilepaste,or¼teaspoonredpepperflakes2to4garliccloves,minced4teaspoonsmincedfreshflat-leafparsley

GrilledPeach-NectarineMostarda(page132)

Soakeight12-inchwoodenskewersincoldwaterforatleast30minutes.Cut off the outside skin from eachmortadella slice and discard. Slice the

meatandthecheeseintoneat1-inchcubes.(Forgood-lookingskewers,cutallthe cubes the same size.) Pour the olive oil into a medium bowl. Add theoregano,chilepaste,a littleora lotofthegarlic,andparsley.Addthecheeseandmeatcubes,tosswell,andrefrigerate.Marinatefor1hour.Startafireinafirepit.Staynearby(orhaveanotheradultstaynear)untilthe

flameshavedieddown,andthefirebedprovidesanevenheatsource.Decidehowyou’dliketocooktheskewers:ifyourfirepithasagrillrack,youcanplacetheskewersacrosstherack.Ifyourfirepitdoesn’thavearack,useaplanchaoralargecast-ironskilletgrillpanontopofyourstove.Skewerthemeatandcheese,alternatingsoyouhave4cheeseand4meat

cubesoneachskewer.Grilltheskewersuntilthemeatshowsalittlebrownandthecheeseissoft,

about 2minutes per side. Don’t leave it on the grill so long that the cheesemelts.Serveitwiththemostarda.

GRILLEDPEACH-NECTARINEMOSTARDAMakes6cups

Grilling the fruit adds a smoky flavor note to this sweet, pungentcondiment.Choosefruit that isripebutstill firmso itdoesn’tbreakover the fire. You can use any fruit you like for mostarda: grilledapplesandpearsorgrilledfigsandberriesaregreatinthisrecipe.Mostardakeepsforupto3months.WhenIhavegoodfruitonhandanda firealreadygoing, Igrill the fruit, set itaside,and thenmakemostardawhentimeallows.

3largenectarines,peeled,halved,andpitted3largepeaches,peeled,halved,andpitted1serranochile2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil3tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice½teaspoonseasalt,preferablygraysaltFreshlygroundblackpepper2½cupssugar⅓cupwater1shallot,mincedPinchofredpepperflakes⅔cupdriedcherries½cupgoldenraisins½cupdrywhitewine2bayleaves1½cupsDijonmustard

Havereadya low-to-mediumwoodorcharcoalfire inthefirepitorsetagasgrilltomedium.Whenthefirepitrackorthegrillrackishot,cleanit,andbrushorwipeitwithalittleoliveoil.Inalargebowl,drizzlethefruithalvesandthewholeserranochilewiththe

oliveoil,1tablespoonofthelemonjuice,salt,andblackpepper.Tosswithyourhandssothefruitisevenlycoated.Place the fruiton thegrill, cut-sidedown.Grill the fruituntil it shows light

grillmarks, about3minutes. Turn the fruit over and cook for another2 to3minutes.Take the fruitoff theheat.Let theserrano roastuntil it’scharredallthewayaround,andthenpopit intoasmallbrownbag,seal,andlet itsteamfor10minutes.Scrapetheskinfromthechile,cutinhalf,andscrapeouttheseeds.Discard

theseedsandthestem,andmincethechile.Setaside.Indoorsat thestove, ina large,heavynonreactivepotcombine thesugar,

the⅓cupwater,andremaining2tablespoonsoflemonjuice.Cookoverhighheatuntilthesugarturnsdarkamber,12to15minutes.Decreasetheheattomedium-low and stir in the shallots, red pepper flakes, andminced serrano,andthenquicklyaddthegrilledfruit,thecherriesandtheraisins,thewine,andthebayleaves.Cookgently,untilthefruitistender,10to15minutes.Removethepot from the heat, and let cool for at least 10minutes.Gently stir in themustard and taste for seasoning. When the mostarda has come to roomtemperature,refrigerateinacoveredcontainer.Store,tightlycovered, inyourfreezerforupto3months.

3-LITEROOCANMUSSELSAND

GYPSYPEPPERSServes4

IliketoreusewhenIcan;hereanoliveoiltingetsanewlife.Youcaneithergotoyourlocalfoodwarehouseandbuyabigtinofoliveoilorgotoyourfavoritepizzaplaceandaskiftheyhaveanyemptytinsyoucantake.(Youmaywanttoorderapizzabeforeyouask.)Grabatin for every four people you’re serving and double or triple thisrecipeasneeded. Gypsypeppersaresweeter thanbellpeppers,withathinskinthatmakesthemcookupnicely.You’ll findthematfarmers’marketsinSeptemberorOctober.

Oneempty3-literoliveoiltin1pintGypsypeppers1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil1tablespoonmincedgarlic2tablespoonsPernod,or2tablespoonsskillet-toastedfennelseed1cupdrywhitewine2poundsmussels,scrubbedanddebearded2cupspeeled,seeded,andfinelydicedtomatoes1½tablespoonschoppedfreshtarragon2tablespoonsunsaltedbutterCoarseseasalt,preferablygraysaltFreshlygroundblackpepper

Ifthetoplidofthetinisstillattached,useacanopenertocompletelyremoveit,stayingasclosetotherimasyoucan.Leavethebottomlidintact.Setthetinaside.Startacamp fire, ignitecharcoal,or turnagasgrill tohigh.When thegrill

rackishot,cleanit,andwipewithalittleoliveoil.Roastthepeppersonthehotgrillrackfor5minutes.Placethepeppersina

brown paper bag to steam.When the peppers have cooled for 30minutes,removetheskinandseeds,anddiscard.Dicethepeppersandsetaside.Either insideat thestoveoroutdoorsat thefire,heatamediumsautépan

overhighheat.Addtheoiltotheskillet,andwhenit’shot,addthegarlic.Sautéuntilthegarlicbeginstocolor.Addthedicedpeppers.Stir.AddthePernodorthe toasted fennelseed. (Ifusing the fennelseed,add thewinerightaway. IfusingPernod, allow it toevaporateuntil thepan is almostdrybeforeadding

thewine.)Add thewineandcookuntil the liquid is reducedbyhalf, about5minutes.Whilethewinereduces,pourthemusselsintotheolivetin.Haveready2sheetsofaluminumfoil,each16incheslong.Whenthewine

hasreduced,pourthehotliquidoverthemusselsinthecan.Foldonesheetofaluminumfoil inhalfcrosswise,forminga lidthatwillsit insidethecanabovethemixture.Covertheentiretopofthetinwiththesecondsheetoffoiltokeepthesteaminthecan.Setthetinonthegrilloronacampfire,andsitclosesoyoucanhearthesoundofthemusselspoppingopen.Cookuntil thefirstmusselopens,3to5minutes, thentakebothsheetsof

foiloffthetinanddiscardthem.Withtongs,transferthemusselstoaplatterastheyopen.(Ifyou’recamping,transfertoacleansheetofnewspaper.)Discardanythatfailtoopen.Ifyouwanttoreducethesaucefaster,useasautépan,eitherinsideonthe

stoveorrightonthegrill.Emptyallthejuicesinthecanintothesautépanandthenadd thediced tomato to thepan. If youwant to rough it, add thedicedtomatoanditsjuicetothejuicesleftinthetin.Simmerforabout2minutestosoftenthetomato,thentakethetinorsauté

panofftheheatandstirinthetarragonandthebutter.Whenthebuttermelts,returnallthemusselstothesauceinthecan.To serve, empty the tin into a big serving bowlwith a big flourish and let

everyonehelpthemselves.

COSTOLETTADIBOVARO(ITALIANCOWBOYSTEAKS)

WITHSALSAVERDEServes8to10

I love everything about this method of live-fire cooking: spearingtenderbeefona lanceand jamming the lance intoa firepitso theheat rises and cooks the steak perfectly. I like thatmoment whenyouservethebeef,restingthetipofthelanceonaplateandcarvingrightoff theswordso thesucculentbeefslices fallonto theplate. Ilovethemeat’saroma,andthefeelofalanceinmyhand.Thismealis basic and elemental—just beef, metal, and fire—and yet there’ssomethingalmostformal,inthebestpossibleway,inhowyouhonorguestsby carving from the lanceonto their plates. Tenderloin ismypreferredcutofbeef for thismethodbutroundsteakandflanksteak can be cooked this way too. (Think of thismethod the nexttime you want to make fajitas.) You can use the lances to cookchickenorgamebirds,orevenawholefish. Youribbonthepiecesofsteakontotwo lances.(Thinkofold-fashionedribboncandyandyou’ll knowwhat Imean.) You don’twant the steak stretched out;pushittogetheronthelancesoitstaysjuicyduringcooking. SeeResources (page 218) for lances like the ones we used in thesephotographs. Onethingaboutthesalsaverde:Iusethissauceatmyrestaurant,Bottega,everydaybutsometimeschangeit insmallways.Compare theversion Imadehere forbeefwith theversion Imadeforthegrilledtunaloinonpage169.Thisversionisbolderduetooregano,whichworksfortheCostolettabutwouldoverpowerthetuna. You can do this too. If you have a sauce or a salad dressingrecipe thatyouuseoften, thinkabouthow tochange itup insmallwaysdependingonwhereyou’reusingit.

MARINADE

4cupsredwine1largeyellowonion,peeledandquartered20wholeblackpeppercorns6juniperberries3bayleaves

Two6-inchlengthsofbeeftenderloin(about1½poundseach),cutfromthecenter

SALSAVERDE

2teaspoonscoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt,plusmoreforseasoning

2tablespoonsmincedfreshgarlic½cuppackedfresh(notdried)oregano½cuppackedfreshmint¾cuppackedfreshcilantro(seeChef’sNote,page72)1½cupspackedfreshflat-leafparsley2cupsextra-virginoliveoil½cupwhitewinevinegar2tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice,plusmoreforseasoning⅓cupwater,plusmoreifneeded½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper,plusmoreforseasoning

Onelargeonion,peeledandquartered(fortipoflances)

YOUDON’TWANTTHESTEAKSTRETCHEDOUT;PUSHITTOGETHERONTHELANCESOITSTAYSJUICYDURINGCOOKING.

FORTHEMARINADE:Inalargepan,container,orheavy-dutyplasticbag,combinethe wine, onion, peppercorns, juniper berries, and bay leaves. (For moreintenseflavor,combinethepeppercorns,juniperberries,andbayleaveswithalittleofthewineinablender,andthentransfertothebowlwiththeremainingmarinade ingredientsandcombine.)Addthebeefandrefrigerate,marinatingforat least4hoursorpreferablyovernight, turning thebeef in themarinadeoccasionally.

FORTHESALSAVERDE:Mincethesaltandgarlictogetheruntilitformsachunkypaste. Add the oregano, mint, cilantro, and parsley to the bowl of a foodprocessor, add the salt-garlic, and turn on the machine. With the machinerunning,slowlypourintheoilandthenaddthevinegarandlemonjuice.Stop

totaste.Pour ina littleofthewater,andseehowthickthesauceis. If it’stoothick,pour in the remainingwater.Add thepepperand taste.Addmoresalt,pepper,orlemonjuiceasdesired.Coverandrefrigerateuntilreadytoserve.Ifyoumakethisthenightbefore,smoothplasticwrapacrossthetop.

Start a fire in the fire pit. Stay nearby until the flameshavedieddown,and the firebedprovidesanevenheatsource.

Skewerthetenderloinsontothe lances,workingthebeefoverandunderthelance tocreateakindof ribboneffect.Push2onionquartersonto the tipofeach lance and slide them up just a little. These protect the beef from ash.Impaleoneendofeachlanceintotheearthbesidethefire,andturnthelancesevery 10minutes until the beef is cooked all the way around. You can testdoneness using ameat thermometer; themeat ismedium-rare at 135°F. Abetterwaytodothis is topull the lancesoff thefire,and let themrest for15minutes.Restthetipofthelanceonaplateandcarveafewslicesofthemeat.(Useaverysharpknifeforcarvingsothebeefdoesn’tslidedownthelance.)Ifyou’dlikeyourbeefalittlemorewell-done,sprinkleonsomeseasaltandputthelancesbackoverthefire.Ladlethesalsaverdeintoseveralbowlsandplacethematoppositeendsof

the table.Youcanmake the table formalwith steakknivesand forks,or youcanspoononsalsaverde,andeatthemeatwithyourfingers.

BEEF,METAL,ANDFIRE

Somefoodshave thepower to transportyou tootherworlds.Beeftenderloinskeweredonlancestakesmetoanothertime.Whilethemeat is being carved off the lance, I’m dreaming about riding onhorsebackthroughwildgrasslands,farfromrestaurantkitchensandproduceorders.In my mind, my posse and I butcher our own beef and start a

blazingfire.Asthemeatcooks,weuntieourbotasfromoursaddles,and pour a stream of cool red wine straight into our gullets. Asgauchoshavedoneforcenturies,weshareadrinkalongwithtalesofadventurespast.When I cookand servebeef thisway, skeweredon the lance, it

feelssofamiliarthatIthinkImusthavebeenagauchoinapastlife.My ancestors, I’m sure, were cowboys in Italy, and in my cattle-ranchinggrandfather,thegauchogeneranstrong.Thetraditionsofmeatandfirethatgobacksomanyyearstranscendgenerationsandevencrosscontinentsforthoseofusintouchwithourinnercowboy.This style of cooking is the reason I wrote this book. This is

cookingasamindset,away tostripdown to thebasicsand forgetaboutall the thingsyoudon’tneed.Givemebeef,metal,andfire—andmyfriendsandfamily—andIwillmeetthenexthalfcenturywithagratefulheart.

GRILLEDCHICKENSTEWAND

DUMPLINGS

Serves6

Plump, tender dumplings floating on a pot of chicken stew over afire—thisiscomfortfoodwithsomegoodcampingvibesthrownin.Becauseyouhavetogrillthechicken,waitforittocool,thentakeitapart for the chicken stew, this is a relaxed kind ofmeal, one thatshouldn’t be hurried. It’s worth taking your time and enjoying thejourney.

One4½-poundchicken,cutintopieces1tablespooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper½cup(1stick)unsaltedbutter½cupall-purposeflour2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil1mediumyellowonion,cutinto1-inchchunks2carrots,cutinto1-inchchunks2stalkscelery,cutinto1-inchpieces2teaspoonsmincedgarlic1bayleaf1sprigthyme¼teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper4cupsChickenBroth(page217)orstore-boughtlow-sodiumstock

DUMPLINGS

1½cupsall-purposeflour2teaspoonsbakingpowder½cupcoarselygroundcornmeal1tablespoonsugar1teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt1¾cupsheavycream

4teaspoonschoppedfreshflat-leafparsley,forgarnish

Start a fire in a fire pit. Either move your knives andcutting boards outside so you can prepare the chickenbesidethefireorhaveanotheradultstaynearwhilethefireburnsdownalittle.

Seasonthechickenpieceswellwithsaltandpepperonbothsides.Laychickenpiecesskin-sidedownon the rack.Cookuntil thechickenshowsgrillmarks,about8minutes,and then turnall thepiecesoverusing tongs.Cookuntilaninstant-readthermometerinsertedintoachickenpiecereads150°F,another6to 8 minutes. The chicken doesn’t need to be cooked all the way throughbecauseitwillfinishcookinginthestew.Set thechickenasideuntil coolenough tohandle.Pull themeat from the

bones,discardthebones,andcutthemeatinto1-inchchunks.Setaside.Inaskilletorsautépan,eitheronagrillrackoverthefireor insideatyour

stove,makea roux.Put thebutter inapanand let itmelt.Add the flourandcook, stirring until the flour is just beginning to turn an amber color, 3 to 5minutes.Takeitofftheheatandsetaside.Heata5-quartDutchovenonagrill rackover thecoals.When thepan is

hot,addtheoliveoil.Whentheoilishot,addtheonionandcookuntilitstartstoshowalittlecolor,about2minutes.Addthecarrots,celery,garlic,bayleaf,thyme,turmeric,salt,andpeppertothepot.Cookforanother2minutes.AddtherouxtotheDutchoven,scrapingallofitoutofthepan.Pourinaboutone-fourthofthebroth,stiruntilsmooth,andbringtoaboil,whiskingcontinuously.Whiskasyouaddtheremainingbrothandbringtoasimmer,uncovered.Iftheliquid boils too vigorously, take the pot off the fire and let it cool for a fewminutes.When the liquid has thickened to your liking, add the chickenmeatandsimmerfor15minutes.

FORTHEDUMPLINGS:While thestewthickens,whisk together the flour,bakingpowder,cornmeal,sugar,andsaltinalargebowl.Addthecreamandmixuntiljustcombined.About15minutesbeforeyou’dliketoservethestew,drop12dumplings—

each dumpling 1 heaping tablespoon of batter—onto the stew. Once thedumplingshavebeen added, don’t stir the stew.Cover and simmeruntil thedumplingsfloatandarenolongerdoughy,12to15minutes.Toserve, ladleoneor twodumplings intoabowl,and then topwithstew,

making sure you spoon a good amount of chicken into each bowl. Garnisheachservingwithasprinkleofparsley.

S’MORESWITHESPRESSOMARSHMALLOWSServes6

EspressoMarshmallows(recipefollows),cutinto2-inchsquares2packagesstore-boughtgrahamcrackers(about36crackers)Eight3-ouncebarsofgood-qualitychocolate(4darkchocolate,4milkchocolate),suchasScharffenBerger

Toastoneortwomarshmallowsoveraflameuntil they’reroastedexactlytheway you like. Have two graham crackers standing by. Break off a piece ofchocolateandsetitononegrahamcracker.Putyourroastedmarshmallowontopof thechocolateand thensandwich itbetween the twograhamcrackersandpullitofftheroastingfork.

ESPRESSOMARSHMALLOWSMakessixteen2-inch-squaremarshmallows

Just-mademarshmallowsareincredibleandyoucanflavorthemanywayyoulike: theseespressomarshmallowsaregreat fors’moresand they’regood inhotchocolate,too. Maybeit’spossibletomakethesewithoutastandmixer,butitwouldbeachallengetopourinthehotsugarmixturewhiletryingtosteerahandheldmixer.Iwouldsayifyoudon’thavebothacandythermometeranda stand mixer, skip this recipe and go for store-bought marshmallows.Cornstarchisthesecretforkeepingthemarshmallowsfrommergingtogetherintoonebigstickymass.Don’tskimponthecornstarch;bettertoputdowntoomuchcornstarchthantousetoolittle.

2to3cupscornstarch,fordustingthepanandcoveringandtossingthemarshmallows

2tablespoonswater1tablespoonplus1teaspoonpowderedgelatin1¼cupsplus1tablespoonsugar3tablespoonsdarkrum3tablespoonsbrewedespressoPinchofcreamoftartar¾cuplightcornsyrup½vanillabean3eggwhites

Linean8-by-8-inchbakingpanwithplasticwrap.Sprinkleenoughcornstarchontopoftheplasticwraptoforma½-inch-thicklayer.Coatawoodenspoonwithnonstickcookingsprayorcoatwithcanolaoil.(Don’tskipthissteporthemarshmallowmixturewillsticktothespoonlikeglue.)

Putthewaterinasmallbowl,andsprinklethegelatinontop.Setthisasidewhileyouheatthesugar.In a 2-quart or larger saucepan, combine the sugar, dark rum, espresso,

creamoftartar,cornsyrup,andthehalfvanillabean.Bringthemixturetoaboilover high heat; when it begins to boil, decrease the heat tomedium. Clip acandythermometertothepan.While the espresso mixture heats, begin whipping the egg whites in the

bowlofastandmixerfittedwiththewhiskattachmentonlowspeed.Whenthethermometeronthepotregisters120°F,increasethemixerspeedtomedium.Youwanttheeggwhitestobewhippedwhenthesugarsyrupisready.When the espresso-sugar mixture in the pot registers 240°F, add the

gelatin-watermixture,stirringuntilthegelatinhascompletelydissolved,30to45seconds.Usetongstoliftoutthevanillabeananddiscardit.Decreasethemixerspeedto low.With themachinerunning,drizzle in the

hotespresso-sugarmixturealittleatatime.Trytoaimsotheespressomixturefallsontheeggwhitesandnotonthebeaters.Whenall the syruphasbeenadded to theeggwhites, increase themixer

speedtohigh.Whipuntilthemixturebecomescohesiveandpullstogetherinthecenterofthebowl,forminglight,glossypeaks,10to15minutes.Carefully (because the mixture is hot), with the oiled wooden spoon,

transfer themixtureonto thepreparedbedofcornstarch.Sprinklewithmorecornstarch (the cornstarch keepsout air), and let themixture come to roomtemperature.Refrigerateuntilthemarshmallowshaveset,4to6hours.Don’ttry tocut themintosquaresbefore theyset.Oncethey’reset,cut into2-inchsquaresandarrangetheminanairtightcontainer.Spoononlotsofcornstarch,thenstore in therefrigeratoruntil readytoserve.They’llkeepfor2weeksaslongasyouhaveagoodamountofcornstarchprotecting them fromair.Letthemcometoroomtemperaturebeforeeating.

CHAPTERSIX

FIREINABOX:THEHOTBOX

Midnight lechón breaks when I was a student at FloridaInternationalUniversity—thatwasmy introduction to thehotbox.Lechón,theCuban-styleroastedpigwithsautéedonionspushedundertheskin,wasarevelation,theperfectfoodforhot,sultryMiaminights. IwouldheadoutwithmygirlfriendtowardLaCalleOchoenLaPequeñaHabana(EighthStreetinLittleHavana)wherefoodvendorspulledtheirwheeledhotboxesup the street.After a night of clubbing,we’d stroll tothesectionwherethevendorssoldlechón.Whenyoustoppedatacart,theguywouldopenthetopofthehotboxandbreakapart some of the meat from the leg, serving the sweet,tenderporkwithbreadorabigplateofblackbeans.We’d buy guarapo de cana—fresh sugar cane juice—and

smuggleitintoaflaskofrumtomakeasortofHighwayman’sMojito(page203).We’dgivethedrinkasqueezefromafreshlime, nomint needed. The guarapowith rum, the porkwithblack beans—it’s just as good ameal today as itwas in the1980s.

TrifectaofRibs:Beef,Pork,andLambChickensforTwentyPigPickin’PorkShoulderCookedLechón-StyleHeirloomTomatoeswithWhippedBurrata,BasilOil,SmokedSeaSalt,andBalsamicReductionCornontheCobRoastedintheHuskwithRedPepperButterApricotHandPies

WHYICOOKWITHAHOTBOX

The hot box, also known as a box roaster, wasmade for cookingstreet food. The oldest known brand of hot box is called La CajaChina (kah-ha sheen-ah) andhas its roots inCuban-style cooking.Whiletheboxwasdesignedtoroastawholepig,it’sasmartpieceofequipmentbecauseit’sportable,it’seasytostart,youdon’tneedtodigapitintheground,andthepig(orrackofribsordozenchickensor whole boatload of fish) cooks perfectly, with tender, juicymeatandcrispskin.Plusyoudon’tneedtostandoverthefireonahotday.Youclose

uptheboxandletitcook.Thismethodistheeasiestwaytocookabigamountoffoodforalargeparty.Thehotboxislarge—ithastobetoholdapig—andcancooka lotoffoodatonetime,but itdoesn’ttakeupmoreroomthanastandardgasgrill.Thehotbox Iuse ismadeofwood linedwithaluminum,and it’s

setonwheels.Thiswood-and-metalboxdoesagreatjobofholdingtheheat induringcooking,but it’sstill lightenoughsoIcansingle-handedlyrollitwhereverIwantit.Thehotboxoffersadifferentwayofcookingbecausethefiresits

abovethefood.Onceyou’veputthefoodinside,youbuildafireontopofthebox.What’stheadvantagetothis?Theairinsidestaysatahot,steadytemperature;theheatdoesn’tbuildanddiminishthewayitcanonagrilloroverafire.Theotherniceaspectofahotboxishowpredictablyitburnsfuel.

Right on the side ofmy hot box, it tellsme howmany pounds ofcharcoal to start with and howmany pounds to add after the firsthour and the second hour. I always have the amount of charcoal Ineed to burn because I know exactly how much the hot box willrequireuntilthepigiscooked.Morethananyoftheseadvantages,Ilikethehotboxforthatone

moment—zerohour,when it’s time tosee inside:yourguestshavebeenmillingaround,drinkingsangria,and then,whenyougive thesignal,everyonegatherstowatch.Thetopoftheboxisliftedoff(youand your buddy carrying it to a safe spot) and there is the meal,perfectly cooked.Don’t be surprised if you (and the pig) get a bigroundofapplause.Whocanresistthat?

HOWTOSTARTAFIREINTHEHOTBOXFiringupahotboxisalittledifferentfromaregulargrillbecauseyouput themeat, fish, or vegetables in the box first and then light thecoalsontopofthebox.First,followthedirectionsforeachrecipeinthischapter;onceyouput the food in thehotbox,here’showyoustartthefireontop.Placetheashpan inplaceontopof theboxtoprotect thefood

fromash.Thegratethatholdsthecharcoalsitsontopoftheashpan.You’ll need 16 pounds of charcoal to start and an additional 26poundsofcharcoalthatyou’lladdthroughoutcooking.Seepage20forthoughtsaboutwhichkindofcharcoalisbest.

NOTE:ThisisthestandardformulaforallhotboxesasIwritethis,butwho’s to say thatnewhotboxeswithnewcharcoalamountswon’tappear.Checkyourhotboxtomakesurethecharcoalamountswegiveherearerightforyourmodel.Forapigunder50pounds(andforribs,fish,abunchofchickens,

orafewturkeys)pour16poundsofcharcoalontopoftheboxandlight it. Note the time. After 1 hour, you’ll add another 8 pounds.After2hours,you’lladdanother8pounds.After30moreminutes,you’lladdthelast10poundsofcharcoal.

You’llhavetoliftoutboththecoalgrateandtheashpanthat sitsunder itwhenyouwant to turnover thepigortheribs.Thisiseasy,buthaveapartnerhelplifttheotherend. Don’t try to lift out the hot coal pan by yourself.

That’sadisasterinthemaking.Whenyouliftthecoalpan,restitonthewidehandlesononesideofthehotbox.Makesureyouhaveatleasttwopairsofheat-proofglovesready.

TRIFECTAOFRIBS:BEEF,PORK,ANDLAMB

Serves30to36

Ribs lovers,admit it: you’vealwayswanted to throw threedifferentkindsofribsonthefireandhostaribbacchanalia.Thisisdefinitelytheeasiest,fastestkindofpartytothrowforalotofpeople;thehotbox does the hard part of the job for you. Each type of ribmeat—beef, pork, and lamb—calls for a different seasoning. Figure thateach rib recipebelowservesaboutadozenpeople. If you likeyoucancookjustonekindofribandstillhaveagood-sizeribfeast.

BEEFRIBSWITHCOFFEEBBQSAUCEServes12to16generously

Thissaucewasinspiredbyverydarkcoffeethathadbeensittinginapotoveracampfire.Reducingthecoffeeaddsanaddictivebottomnotetothissaucethat’shardtoidentifyifyoudon’tknowwhatitis.Aslabofbeefribsweighsabout5pounds.Whenorderingribsforaparty, figureon2 to3poundsofbeef ribsperperson(2pounds ifyou’re entertaining friends ofmy petite wife and 3 pounds if yourguestsarefromTexas). ThisrecipemakesagoodamountoftheBBQsauce.Pouritintobowls,andhavesaucewithineasyreach.

COFFEEBBQSAUCE

1cupbrewedcoffeeorespresso¼cupextra-virginoliveoil4tablespoonsmincedgarlic2cupsketchup(homemade,seepage75,orstore-bought)2cupshoney1cupbalsamicvinegar½cupsoysauce

4fullslabsofbeefribs,about20poundstotalCoarseseasalt,preferablygraysaltFreshlygroundblackpepper½cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreifneeded

FOR THEBBQ SAUCE: In a small saucepanovermedium-highheat, reduce thecoffeeto½cup,3to4minutes.Heatthe¼cupoliveoilinasaucepansetonagrilloverafireorontopof

thestoveonmediumheat.Whentheoilishot,addthegarlicandsautéuntilit’sgolden.Removethepanfromtheheatandletthegarliccoolintheoil.Whiskintheketchup,honey,vinegar,soysauce,andcoffeereduction.Let themixturesimmeroverafireoronthestovefor15minutessotheflavorsblend.

Seasoneachslabofribswithsaltandpepper.Besuretopresstheseasoningsinto themeat onboth sideswith your hands.Drizzle about2 tablespoonsofoliveoilovereachribslab,frontandback,andputtheminthehotbox.Ignite16poundsofcoalsontopof thehotbox(seepage146).After1hour,getabuddytohelpyouliftofftheashpan(restitonthehandlesofthehotbox),anduselongtongstoturnalltheribsover.Replacetheashpan,andaddanother8poundsofcharcoaltothetop.Anhourlater,liftofftheashpanagain,slatherallthe ribs generously with sauce, and put the ash pan back. Add another 5poundsofcharcoal(youdon’tneedasmuchasyoudoforawholepig).After30minutes,taketheribsoutofthebox,brushagainwithsauce,andserve.

BABYBACKPORKRIBSWITHMILANESERUB(ORPORK2)Serves12

This seasoning was inspired by one I tasted in Italy at Peck, agourmetfoodstoreinMilan.PeckislikeDean&DeLucaonsteroids.Icallthis“porksquared,”becausepork(intheformoffinelymincedpancetta) is part of the seasoning that goes onto the pork ribs.Traditionally, for the rub you’d mince the garlic and lemon zesttogetherwithaknife,andthenaddtheherbsandminceeverythingtogether until very fine. The food processor does this for you inmuchlesstime.Puttherubontothemeat30to60minutesbeforetheribsgointothehotbox.

MILANESERUB

¾cupcoarselychoppedgarlic5tablespoonscoarselychoppedlemonzest¾cupkoshersalt1cuplooselypackedfreshsageleaves,stemmed

1cupfreshrosemaryleaves1½cupsfinelymincedpancetta(seeChef’sNote)2tablespoonsfreshlygroundblackpepper

6racksbabybackribs,12to18poundstotal

FORTHERUB: Inafoodprocessor,pulsetocombinethegarlicandlemonzest.Add the salt and process until fine. Add the sage and rosemary leaves, andprocess again. Finally, add the pancetta and pepper, and process until themixturelookslikeaverycoarse,moistsaltrub.Don’tover-process,ortherubcanturngummy.

Presstheseasoningintotheribsandputtheminthehotbox.Ignite16poundsofcoalsontopofthehotbox(seepage146).About1to1½hourslater,getabuddytohelpyouliftofftheashpan(restitonthehandlesofthehotbox),anduselongtongstoturnalltheribsover.Puttheashpanandgratebackinplace,andpouranother8poundsofcharcoalontopofthehotbox.Cookforanother45minutesto1hour,andthentestarib.Ifthey’retenderandcaramelized,takethemout;ifnot,replacethecoalpan,addmorecharcoal,andcookforanother30to60minutes.Setouttheribsalongwithsauce;warnyourgueststhattheribswillbehot

butthenstepoutofthewaybeforetheytrampleyoutogettothemeat.

CHEF’SNOTE:Put thepancetta in the freezer for30 to45minutesand it’llbeeasier to slice and mince. Don’t freeze for any longer than that; you wantsemifreddo(half-frozen)pancetta,notaporkicepop.

LAMBRIBSWITHSALTEDMINTSUGAR

Serves10to12

Here’s the thinkingbehind this rub:what ifwedeconstructedmintjellyandgavelambribsarubwithsalt,freshmint,sugar,andlemonzest?Itworksverywellbecausethesugarcaramelizesandthefreshmintaddsagreatflavortopnoteandaromatothemeat. Forthelemon zest, I peel a whole lemon with a vegetable peeler (the

coloredpartonly,notthewhitepith).ThenIcoarselychopthepeelandputitintothefoodprocessorwiththesaltandmint.

SALTEDMINT-SUGARRUB

8cupslooselypackedfreshmintleaves½cupkoshersalt3tablespoonscoarselychoppedlemonzest(seeheadnote)1½tablespoonswholeblackpeppercorns2cupssugar

6wholeslabslambribs,6to9poundstotal

FORTHERUB:Inafoodprocessor,mixtogetherthemintleaves,salt,andlemonzestuntilthemintleavesareminced.Withthebackofaheavyknife,cracktheblackpeppercornsandaddthemtothefoodprocessor.Pourthemixtureintoalargebowlandfoldinthesugar.

Press the rub into the ribs about 30minutes before they go in the hot box.(They shouldn’t sit unrefrigerated for longer than that.) Ignite 16 pounds ofcoalsontopof thehotbox(seepage146).About1 to1½hours later,getabuddytohelpyouliftofftheashpan.Restitonthehandlesofthehotbox.Turnalltheribsover,replacetheashpanandgrate,andpouranother8poundsofcharcoalontopofthehotbox.Cookfor45minutesto1hourlonger,andthentesta rib. If they’re tenderandcaramelized, take themout; ifnot, replace thecoalpan,addmorecharcoal,andcookforanother30to60minutes.Setouttheribsrightawaywithsauceandlotsofnapkins.

CHICKENSFORTWENTYServes20people

Thehotbox ismy favoriteway tocookupawholebarnyard fullofbirds. Itworkswell forgamebirdstoo—quail,duck,andturkey—but

whodoyouknowthatdoesn’t loveperfectly roastedchicken?Thesecret behind the meat’s clean, tangy flavor is very thin slices oflemon placed under the chicken’s skin just before roasting. I usefreshbayleaveshere,becauseIhaveatreeinmyyard,butdriedbayleavesarefinetoo. TheCajaChinahotbox—theoneIuse—comeswitharack.Lineuphowevermanychickensyouhaveinsidetherackandcloseit.Whenit’stimetoturnthebirdsover,youcandoitinonesmoothmotionby turningover theentire rack.Haveabuddyhelpyouwhenit’stimetoliftthehotcoalpan. ThesebirdsaregreatontheirownandalsogoodwithCoffeeBBQSaucesetonthetablesoguestscanservethemselvesasmuchsauceastheylike.

6to12wholechickens,eachabout4½pounds1wholelemonperbird,slicedverythinly2freshordrybayleavesperbirdCoarseseasalt,preferablygraysaltFreshlygroundblackpepperCoffeeBBQSauce(page149)

Rinseeachchickenincoldrunningwaterinsideandout,andpatdrywithpapertowels.Gentlyslidethe lemonslicesunder theskinofeachchicken, threeorfour slices in the breast area and two or three slices in the thighs and legs.Arrange the slices in a thin layer so the entire meat under the breast is incontact with some lemon. Slide in the bay leaves under the skin, one perbreast.Sprinklesaltandpepperoverallthechickens.Arrangethebirds in therack(thiscomeswithyourhotbox).Closeupthe

rackandputit inthehotbox.Ignite16poundsofcoalsontopofthehotbox(seepage146).After1hour,getabuddytohelpyouliftofftheashpan(restitonthehandlesofthehotbox).Havethesamefriend(oradifferentfriend,uptoyou),helpyouturnover therackholdingall thechickens.Put theashpanback in place, and add another 8 pounds of charcoal to the top. Cook foranother45minutesto1hour,andthencutintoachicken(maybeevensliceoffabite) tosee if it’scookedall theway through. (Yes,youcando thiswithouttakinganychickensoutof therack.) If thechicken isn’tdoneyet, replacetheashpan,adda littlemorecharcoal to the top,andcook foranother25 to40minutes.

When thechickensaredone, take the rackoutof thehotboxand let thechickens rest in the rack for5minutes.Open the rack, remove thechickens,and cut each bird into quarters using a cleaver. Arrange the pieces on largeservingplatters,andsetoutbowlsofCoffeeBBQSauce.

PIGPICKIN’Serves25to30people

Thehighpointofaporkfeastisthatmomentwhenyouopenthehotboxtorevealthewholepig,andthenliftitoutforthecrowdtosee.Porkcookedthiswayisincrediblytenderandflavorful;you’veneversmelledanythingasgoodasthispigduringthefinal30minutesofcooking. I’ve re-created the flavorof the lechón I lovedsomuchwhen I lived inMiami. I’m purposely not giving you an amount fordried oregano because I think fresh oregano is better for porkcookedthisway.Andthecuminisbestifyoustartwithwholeseeds,toasttheminadryskilletonyourstovejustuntilyoucansmelltheirfragrance,andthengrindthemwithacleancoffeegrinderorspicemill before you use them. After all, you went to all the time andtroubletogetawholepig;youdon’twanttoskimponthespicesandfreshherbs. Thepigisbestifmarinatedfor4to6hoursbutclearspaceinthefridgetostoreit;don’tletitsitoutunrefrigerated. Usethe rack that comeswith thehotbox to secure thewholepig; thismakes itmucheasier to turn thepigoverand take itoff the fire.Theentiremeal reliesonyourchoosingagreatpig to roast. If youdon’tknowapigrancher,talktoyourbutcher,ortryHeritageFoods(seeResources,page218).Evenifyoudon’tseewhatyouneedontheHeritagewebsite, give them a call. They can usually findwhatyou need or steer you in the right direction. Restaurant supplystoressellplastictubsbigenoughtoholdsucklingpigs.Thesedofitinastandardfridge,butplanaheadtomakeroomforitasittakesupa lot of space. Or store the pig and marinate in a heavyweight,double-thick plastic bag or a new 50-gallon plastic trash can,scrubbedinsideandoutwithsoap. Ideally,yourbutchermightholdthepigforyouuntilthedayyou’rereadytocookit.

Onewholesucklingpig,30to35pounds

LECHÓN-STYLEMARINADE

1½cupschoppedgarlic¾cupchoppedfreshoregano¾cupcoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt

4tablespoonstoastedandthenfreshlygroundcumin(seeheadnote)3tablespoonswholeblackpeppercorns2½cupsextra-virginoliveoil

8cupsfreshlysqueezedlimejuice2cupsfreshlysqueezedorangejuice8largeyellowonions,peeledandslicedintothinrounds

Thebutchershouldhavedonemostoftheworkforyou,sowhatyouhaveisawholeanimalwithalltheorgansremoved.Whenyouorderawholepig,clarifythiswithyourbutcher tomakesureyou’rebothon thesamepage.Check tosee if thekidneysarestill inplace.You’llbeabletoseethemattached insidetheribcage,ifthey’restillthere.Iftheyare,slicethemoffanddiscardorsautéin ahotpan if you like kidneys.Put thepig in aplastic tubor use adouble-layeredplasticbagoranew50-gallonplastictrashcan(seeheadnote).

FORTHEMARINADE:Inafoodprocessor,mixtogetherthegarlic,freshoregano,salt,andcumin.Withthebackofaheavyknife(orthebottomofaheavyskillet)crack all thepeppercorns and add them to theprocessor.Process just for afewsecondsthenscrapetheherbmixtureintoalargebowlandstirintheoliveoil.Rubthismixturealloverthepig,insideandout.Letthespicessitonthepig

for15minutes,thenpouronthecitrusjuicesandtheonions,pouringsomeofthe juice insideandmakingsure theonionssurround thepig insideandout.Refrigeratefor4hoursorovernight,occasionallyturningthepiginthejuices.

Takethepigoutoftherefrigeratorandsecureitinthehotboxrackabout30minutes before you’re ready to ignite the charcoal. Place the pig in the rackinside the hot box. Replace the ash pan and grate and ignite 16 pounds ofcoalsontopofthehotbox(seepage146).After1hour,addanother8poundsofcharcoal tothetop.About2hoursfromthetimeyouplacedthepig inthehotbox,get ready to turn itover.Havea friendhelpyou lift theashpanandrestitonthehandlesofthehotbox.Carefully,withafriend’shelp,fliptheracksothesidefacingupnowfacesdowninthehotbox.Replacetheashpan,andpouranother8poundsofcharcoalonthetop.Let thepigcook foranother2hours,addingmorecharcoalafter1 to1½

hoursifyouthinkthecoalsareburninglow.Thepigshouldbereadyabout4½

to5hoursfromthetimeyoulitthefirstbatchofcharcoal.Set the ash pan on the hot box’s handles, and lift out the pig. Set it on a

stable surface and take it out of the rack. (We don’t need to tell you it’sextremelyhot,right?)Letitcoolfor15minutesandthencarveit,workingfromthesidesandback.Letyourguestsfilltheirplatesandcomebackformoreasoftenastheylike.

PORKSHOULDERCOOKEDLECHÓN-STYLE

Serves16to20

For those of you who aren’t fired up about roasting a whole pig,here’s my version of pork shoulder cooked with the same lechónseasonings.Youdon’tneedahotboxtocookthis(althoughyoucanuse a hot box if youhaveone). This recipeworksover a fire or inyouroven.Marinatethemeatforatleast12hoursintheherbsandlimejuice.

LECHÓN-STYLEMARINADE

2tablespoonscoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt2teaspoonsgroundcumin¼cupchoppedgarlic2tablespoonschoppedfreshoregano2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil2cupsfreshlysqueezedlimejuice½cupfreshlysqueezedorangejuice1tablespoonwholeblackpeppercorns2largeyellowonions,peeledandslicedintothinrounds

Oneporkshoulder,about15poundstotal(ortwo8-poundporklegsorporkbutts)

FORTHEMARINADE:Onacuttingboard,addthesaltandcumintothegarlicandoreganoandmashittogetherwithyourknifeuntilitformsapaste.Scrapethepaste off the board and into a bowl and stir in the olive oil. (See marinadedirectionsinPigPickin’,page155;ifyouhaveasmallfoodprocessor,useittospeedupthisstep.)Rubtheporkalloverwiththespicemixture.Combine the lime and orange juices in a bowl.With the back of a heavy

knife,crackthepeppercornsandaddthemtothejuice.Slidetheporkshoulderinto aheavyplasticbagandpour in the seasonedcitrus juice and the slicedonions.Sealupthebagandlettheporkmarinateinyourrefrigeratorovernight.

Turn the bag over occasionally so the pork gets a good soak all the wayaround.

Drainoff themarinadefromtheporkshoulder.Saveyourmarinade in thefridge;you’llneedittobastethepork.Putthemeatinthehotbox.Ifyoudon’thaveahotbox,youcancooktheporkoverafirepitorroastitinyouroven.(Inyour oven, start the temperature at 450°F for first 30 minutes, and thendecreasethetemperatureto250°F.)Cookthemeatforabout1½hours,untilthe meat registers 130°F on an instant-read thermometer. Swab down thewhole pork shoulder with the remaining marinade and then discard anyleftovermarinade.Puttheporkbackinthehotboxoroverthecoalsorintheoven.Cookforanother30to60minutes,untilthemeatregisters160°Fonaninstant-read thermometer. Let the meat rest for at least 20 minutes beforecarving.

CHEF’SNOTE:Youcanslow-roasttoo.Spreadoutthecoalsontopofthehotboxwhentheporkhasreachedatemperatureof160°F,andlet itcookslowlyforanother1½hours.Pigheaven.

HEIRLOOMTOMATOESWITHWHIPPEDBURRATA,BASILOIL,SMOKEDSEASALT,ANDBALSAMICREDUCTIONServes6

This salad is a departure from the classic tomato-mozzarella-basilcaprese because burrata is much creamier than mozzarella andsmokedseasaltaddsabolderfinish.Burratadiffersfrommozzarellain how it’smade. Burrata cheesemakers form a tiny pouch out ofjust-mademozzarellaand fill thepouchwithmozarrellaandcreambefore pinching it closed. Burrata is expensive because it’s fragileand requiresovernight shipping,but it’sworth thecost. Youcanbuysmokedseasalt(seeResources,page218)orsmokeyourown.Iliketouseavarietyofheirloomsforthissalad,indifferentsizes,

butjustusewhat’sripeonthevineorbestatthefarmers’marketonthedayyouplantomakethis.

½poundburrata2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil2½teaspoonsSmokedSeaSalt(page211)½cupbalsamicvinegar1½poundsheirloomtomatoes2tablespoonsBasilOil(page216),orsubstitute2teaspoonsbasilchiffonade(page43)

Combinetheburrata,oliveoil,and½teaspoonofthesmokedsaltinthebowlofafoodprocessor,pulsingjustuntilmixed.Setthebowlaside.Pour the balsamic vinegar into a sauté pan set over high heat.When the

vinegar boils, reduce heat to medium-high and cook until the vinegar isreduced to about¼ cup, approximately 10minutes.Pour the vinegar into aheat-proofmeasuring cup to cool. Thismakesmore reduction than youwillneed for this recipe; the remaining reduction will keep for 1 month in therefrigerator.Whileitcools,slicethetomatoes,arrangetheslicesonaplatter,andspoon

thewhippedburrataindollopsacrossthetop.Drizzle the salad with the basil oil, and then with 2 tablespoons of the

balsamic reduction.Finishbysprinklingon the remaining2 teaspoonsof thesmokedsalt.

CORNONTHECOBROASTEDINTHEHUSKWITHREDPEPPERBUTTER

Serves8

Ilovethisredpepperbutteroncornthat’sbeenroastedinthehuskrightontopofthecoals. Aswithallcompoundbutters,thisoneisbest if made the day before you cook with it. Whenever I haveleftoverroastedredpeppers,Imakethiscompoundbutterandstoreittightlywrappedinmyfreezer. UnlessIamroastingcornforfiftypeople,Iwouldn’tfireupahotboxjustforcorn;butifyou’realreadycookingribsorapig,thenusethecoalsontopofthehotboxtocookyour corn. At the end of the recipe, we’ve included directions forroastingthecornonagrill,soyoucancookthemeitherway.

ROASTEDREDPEPPERBUTTER

3mediumredbellpeppers,roasted(seepage215)2teaspoonsextra-virginoliveoil2teaspoonsmincedgarlic2teaspoonschoppedfreshoregano,or½teaspoondriedoregano1teaspoonbalsamicvinegar1teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt,plusmoreforserving⅛teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper,plusmoreforserving1cup(2sticks)unsaltedbutter(cutintolargechunks),atroomtemperature

8earsfreshcorn

FOR THE RED PEPPER BUTTER: Peel the roasted peppers, discarding the skin,seeds,andribs.Coarselychoptheroastedpeppersandsetthemaside.Heattheoliveoilinasmallsautépanoverhighheat.Whentheoilishot,add

themincedgarlicanddecreasetheheat tomedium-high.Sauté justuntil thegarlicbeginstoshowsomecolor,about2minutes.Takethepanoff theheatandstirintheoregano.Setthepanasidetocool.Inafoodprocessorora largeblender,combinetheredpeppers,balsamic

vinegar, salt, andpepper.Pulseuntil smooth.Pour in thewarmoliveoilwiththe garlic and oregano and pulse to blend. Add the softened butter andprocessuntilthemixtureissmoothwithaconsistentcolor.Transfer thebutter toabowland refrigerateuntil it’shardenedenough to

shapeintoalog,about30minutes.Placean18-inch-longsheetofaluminumfoilonaworksurface,andspoonthebutterlengthwisedownthecenterofthefoil.Shapeintoalogabout1½inchesindiameter,andwraptightlyinthefoil.Refrigeratefor1weekorfreezeforupto1month.

Fillabucketwithcoldtapwaterandhaveithandy.Firstpulloutallthecornsilkbut do itwithout tearing off the husk.When you pull down the husks of thecorn,don’tremovethehusksentirely.Justpulloutthecornsilk,discardit,andthen smooth the husks back down over the corn. Soak the silk-less corn intheirhusksforatleast30minutesbeforetheygooverthefire.You’llwanttostartroastingthecornabout15minutesbeforetheribsorthe

pork(orwhateveryou’reroasting)comeoutof thebox.Toroast thecornontopofthehotbox,uselongtongstosetthecornontopofthelivecoals.Letthemcookfor8to10minutes,andthentakeanearoffthecoalsandtestittoseeifit’sdone.

ONACHARCOALORGASGRILL:Startyourgasgrillandsetittomedium-high.Withcharcoaloroveracampfire,it’sbesttoroastthecornoverafirethatisstartingtoburndown,abouthalfanhourafterthecoalsareattheirhottest.When the grill is atmediumheat—when you can hold your hand about 5

inchesabove thegrill rack for4 to5seconds—thenput thecornon thegrill.Grilluntil thehusks lookbrownandslightlycharred,about10 to12minutes.Take1earoffthefireandtesttoseeifit’sdone.

Pullhalfofthehusksfromeachearofcorn,slatheronsomeredpepperbutter,seasonwith salt and pepper, and serve the cornwhile it’s hot. If you have acrowd,putoutafewcrocksoftheredpepperbutterandleteveryonespreadasmuchbutterontheircornastheylike.

APRICOTHANDPIESMakes16pies

Wheneverybody is just about stuffedonpork, ribs, and chicken, abigdessert isnotsomethinganyonewants tosee.But if youbringout a plate of these small hand pies, watch as people storm yourway. There’s something about their size that’s irresistible. Themascarponecheesemakesthisdoughverytender.It’ssticky,sousealotofflouronyourworksurfacebeforerolling.Handleitlightlyandtry to work while the dough is cold; it warms quickly and thenbecomes harder to shape. If the dough becomes too sticky, justcoveritwithplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor15to30minutestofirmit up. You canmake the dough one day ahead. If you can’t findmascarpone,substituteanequalamountofcreamcheese.

DOUGH

1cup(2sticks)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature1cup(8ounces)mascarponecheeseorcreamcheese,atroomtemperature

2tablespoonsgranulatedsugar½teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt½cupheavycream1½teaspoonsgratedlemonzest2cupsall-purposeflourplusmorefordusting2eggs,foreggwash4tablespoonsturbinadosugar

APRICOTFILLING

1tablespoonunsaltedbutter1driedbayleaf1poundapricots,pittedandcutintolargedice1tablespoonfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice¼cupgranulatedsugar⅛teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt

¼teaspoonchoppedfreshrosemaryPinchofgroundcinnamon

FOR THE DOUGH: In a food processor, combine the butter, mascarpone,granulated sugar, salt, heavy cream, and grated lemon zest, pulsing untilsmooth.Addtheflourandpulseuntilastickydoughforms.Dividethedoughinto two equal pieces; shape into two balls and cover both in plastic wrap,smoothing thewrapover thedough sonodough is exposed to air.Chill thedoughfor3hoursorovernight.Makethefillingwhilethedoughchills.

FORTHEFILLING:Eitheronthestoveinaskilletorinacast-ironpanontopofthegrill,meltthebutter.Whenthebutterstopsfoaming,tossinthebayleaf,whichwill crackle and pop. Add the diced apricots and stir. Add the lemon juice,granulatedsugar,salt,rosemary,andcinnamon.Cookovermediumheatuntilthefruitisverytender,12to15minutes.Takeofftheheatandallowthefillingtocool.

Whenreadytobake,preheattheovento350°F.Linetwobakingsheetswithparchmentpaperandsetaside.Sprinkleagenerousamountofflouronyourworksurfaceandtakeoneball

of dough out of the refrigerator. Roll out one of the dough balls to form arectangleabout10incheswideby20incheslong.Usingabowlortherimofadrinkingglass,cutouteightcircles,eachabout4½incheswide.Transfer thedoughcirclestoapreparedbakingsheet.Spoonabout1tablespoonoffillinginthecenterofeachdoughcircle.Beattheeggslightlyinasmallbowl.Foreachfilleddoughcircle,brushhalf

of theouter edgewithbeatenegg.Fold thedoughover the filling to formahalf-moon.Presstheedgestogetherandusethetinesofaforktopressdownallthewayaroundthehalf-circletosealthedough.Cutfourslitsinthetopofeachpie toallowsteamtoescapeduringbaking.Brush the topswithbeateneggand sprinklewith the turbinado sugar.Repeat rolling, cutting, filling, andsealing with remaining ball of dough. Bake until golden brown, 25 to 35minutes.Halfwaythroughcooking,switchthetopbakingsheettothebottomrackand vice versa, and rotatebothbaking sheets.Remove towire racks tocool.Thesecanbeservedwarmoratroomtemperature.

CHEF’SNOTE: Ifyou’rerunningshortontime,filleachcircleofdoughwithoneslicedstrawberryandtwoteaspoonsofjam,andskipmakingthefilling.

CHAPTERSEVEN

ASPINWITHFIRE:THEROTISSERIE

There’s something remarkably peaceful about watching ajoint of meat slowing turning above a fire. Maybe it’s thelullingmovementorthewaythemeat’sfragrancedriftsouttothecook.This method of cooking is different from other methods

becauseitdoesn’tsubjecttheproteintoanonslaughtofheat;instead the slow, even exposure to flame results in juicy,evenlycookedchicken,beef,lamb,andpork.But don’t stop with the protein: the rotisserie can add

flavor to theunexpectedaswell: use your rotisserie (with acage attachment) to give Brussels sprouts a caramelizedexterior,roasttwobutternutsquash,orcookatortastrizzare—a type of dessert unlike anything you’ve cooked before.There are more ways to use this tool than you may haveimagined.

BabyGoatonaSpitjackTurkeysonaSpitjackTunaLoinTiedPrimeRib–StylewithSalsaVerdeBrusselsSproutswithLemonsinaRotisserieCageTortaStrizzarewithMaple-PecanGraySaltIceCream

WHYIUSEAROTISSERIE

Therotisserieconjuresuppast-lifecellmemoriesforme:WhileI’msittinginfrontofthefire,IcanenvisionaRomancourt,withaspitofftoonesideholdingawholegoat,which isbeing turnedconstantlywith ropes.Gobletsareslammeddownonhuge tablesandquicklyrefilled with wine. You’re elbows-on-the-table with your Romancountrymen, a leafy crown on your head. I might be sitting in mybackyard wearing shorts and an old T-shirt that says ALWAYS USE ACONDIMENTbut inmymind I amacommando ina togawhen Iputawholegoatonmyrotisserie.

HOWTOUSEAROTISSERIEORASPITJACKMostlikelyyoucanbuyarotisserieapplianceforthegasgrillyoualreadyown.Myfavoriteformofrotisserie isaspitoraspitjack,anoversizerotisseriethatstandsalonesoyoucanplace itanywhereyouwant tobuild the fire.For thestandalone rotisserie, you need to build the fire near a power outlet or havesomeextensioncordsready.Unlessyouwanttojerryrigasystemofropesthatturnthespitrod(andIhaveseenthisdone),thenyouneedelectricityfortherotisserie’smotor.Thespitjackcanholdawholebabygoator lambaseasilyas itcanroasta

dozen chicken breasts, a tuna loin, or a few turkeys for Thanksgiving Daydinnerandpartofyoursidedishesaswell.Iliketoroastwholesquashonmyrotisserie.Tocooksmaller itemsona rotisserie, suchasBrusselssprouts (seepage

172),you’llneedacageattachment.Thesecanbeorderedeasilyonline.SeeResources,page218,forrotisseries,spit,andcageoptions.

Themost important point to using a rotisserie is to notskewer your own hand. When pushing anything onto arotisserieorspitjackbar,keepyourhandsoneithersideof the spit rod, where they can’t be run through if themeatorsquashgiveswaysuddenly.

GOATISTHENEWLAMBBillNiman,whodidsomuchtoimprovethequalityofbeefintheUnitedStateswhenhebeganNimanRanch, isspendinghistimethesedayssellinggoat torestaurants.Thistellsyouthatthegoat’sdayiscoming.Andthat’sagoodthingbecausemanyAmericansviewagoatasgoodforcheeseandnotmuchelse.WhatmadeNiman a national hero to small-scale ranchers, animal lovers,

andbeef fans ishis idea that thebetterananimal is treated, thebetter itwilltaste.Thesedaystherearemanygoatrancherswhobetthefarmonthisidea;findinggoodgoatmeatisnolongerthechallengeitwasadecadeago.Ifyoudon’tfindanygoatfarmersatyourlocalfarmers’market,gettoknow

Heritage Foods (see Resources, page 218). Like Bill Niman, the folks atHeritageareinterestedinthewelfareofboththeanimalandthefamily-ownedranchesthatpracticehumane,sustainableanimalhusbandry.Theycansellyouawholeorahalfgoatfromafarmwhereanimalsarewelltreated.If you think of tough, gamey meat when you think about goat, please

reconsider.Goatcanbedelicate.Atmyhouse,weroastedagoatoverthefirefor this year’s Easter dinner. The meat was fantastic: tender, flavorful,succulent.Myfavoritetimeofyeartoeatgoatorlambisthespring,whenthegrassisnewandstillbrightgreen.Astheweathergetswarmerandtheanimalseat more sage, the meat becomes gamier. Roast your goat or lamb in thespringwhenthemeatissweetest.

BABYGOATONASPITJACKServes18verygenerously

Roastingawholegoator lambis likeridingabicycle.Thefirsttimeyou do it is like pushing off on a bike with nobody spotting you—there’s a little anxiety but it doesn’t take long to master thetechnique. Itmakesgoodsense tohavea friendor twospottingyouwhileyou’resettingupandmaneuveringthemeatontothespinrod.Gettingawholeanimalontothespinrod is thehardestpartofthemeal.IcandothisbymyselfbutovertheyearsI’velearnedthatifIwaitforafriendtohelp,thetaskgetsdonefasterandwithalotlesscussing. Youcanusethissamemethodtocookawhole lamborpig.Themeasuresforspicesare justaproportion;youmightneedmoreof thespice rubor lessdependingonhowbig thegoat is.SeeResources,page218,forsourcesforgoat.

Onewholebabygoatorlamb,18to35pounds2cupsoliveoil,plusmoreifneeded2½cupsFennelSpiceRub(doubletherecipeonpage208)1cupPimentóndelaVera(sweet,smokySpanishpaprika)¼cupkoshersalt

BASTINGLIQUID

5cupsredwine12garliccloves,minced4tablespoonstomatopaste2tablespoonscoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt2tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

Smallleafybranchesofrosemaryororeganotouseasbastingbrushes

Makesurethespitjackisassembled,readytogo,andsetatleast30feetfromtheclosestbuilding.Haveextensioncords toconnect the jack to thenearestoutlet.Startafirebeneaththespitjack,andpreparethegoatwhilethefireturns

tocoals.Ruboliveoilovertheentiregoat,bothinsideandout.Mixtogetherthespice

rub,pimentón,andkoshersalt.Withyourhands,press thespicemixture intothegoat,bothinsideandout.

ICANDOTHISBYMYSELFBUTOVERTHEYEARSI’VELEARNEDTHATIFIWAITFORAFRIENDTOHELP,THETASKGETSDONEFASTERANDWITHALOTLESSCUSSING.

With the help of a buddy, slide thegoat onto thebar of the spitjack frommouth to tail, and secure the bar in place. Let the goat cook for 30minuteswhile turningon the spit, before youbaste it so the spiceshavea chance topenetratethemeat.Makethebastingliquidwhenthegoatgoesoverthefire,buthavesomeoneresponsiblestaynearthefire.

FORTHEBASTINGLIQUID:Combinethewine,garlic,tomatopaste,salt,andlemonjuice.Afterthefirst30minutesofcooking,diprosemaryororeganobranchesintothebastingliquidandswabdownthegoat,every10minutesorso.(Ifyoudon’thaveherbbranches,usea siliconebrush tobaste.)You’ll cooka30-to40-pound goat for about 4 to 5 hours. It’s donewhen the skin is crispy andbrown and an instant-read thermometer registers 130°F. (You’ll find if youinsert the thermometer at various points—the haunch or the shoulder—you’llget a different reading for each. That’s fine; whenmost of the readings arecloseto130°F,thenthegoatisdone.)TOCARVE:Letthegoatrestwiththespitrodstill inplace for15minutes, thenremove thespit rod.Cutaway thehindlegsatthejoint;themeatshouldbetenderenoughsothisiseasy.Next,carveat theshoulder,workingdowntowardthe front legs.Cutawaythefront legs,andthencarvethegoatonesectionatatime,workingfromtheribstowardthebackbone.Serve.

Youandyourbuddybothneed todonsomegoodheat-

proof gloves, and then take the entire spit rod off themachine.Beforeyoudetach therod,knowwhereyou’regoingtosetthegoat.

TURKEYSONASPITJACKServes12verygenerously

TheseturkeyscomeoffthefirelookinglikethecoverphotofortheThanksgiving issue of a foodmagazine, and they taste as good asthey look. The rotisserie cooks themperfectly all theway through,andtheskin isgorgeous,brown,crisp,andcrackled.Youcancookmorethanonebirdata timeandyouroven iskeptavailable forallthesidedishes,whichmakestheentiredayeasier. Forme,maybethebiggestadvantageiscool,freshairduringaholidaycelebration.Standoutsidebythefire,peacefullywatchingtheturkeyscook,andwait.Onebyone,yourfamilywillcomeouttostandbesideyouandtakeadeepbreathof theNovemberairandthatwonderfularoma.Cooking a turkey this way makes me evenmore thankful. Thisrecipewas written for onemedium-size bird. You can easily cooktwobirds,weighing12to24pounds,atthesametime.Justdoublethe brine recipe. This same method works for goose, duck, andgamebirdstoo. Beforeyoucomeclosetostartingthefire,checkout your set-up.Will the spitjackbenearapoweroutletordoyouhavesufficientextensioncordstoplugitin?Isthereaplacenearthefireforpeopletosit?You’llhavelotsofguestsandmostlikelysomechildren, so reviewStaySafe (page10) at least a fewdaysbeforetheholiday.

BRINE

2gallonswater1cupkoshersalt½cuppackedbrownsugar(lightordark)1tablespoonwholeblackpeppercorns1½teaspoonsjuniperberries2bayleaves

Oneturkey,12to20pounds

7tablespoonscoarseseasalt,preferablygraysaltFreshlygroundblackpepper

FORTHEBRINE:Combineallthebrineingredientsinanextra-largestockpot.(Ifyouneed tocook thebrine in two largepots, justputhalfofeach ingredientamount in each pot.) Over high heat, bring the liquid to a boil so the saltdissolves.Letthemixturecool.

Rinse the turkey under coldwater.Remove thegiblets anddiscard.Add theturkeytothecoolbrinemixtureandletitrestfor8to24hoursinarefrigerator.Ifyoudon’thaveapotbigenoughtoholdtheturkey,youcanbrineinadouble-layeredplasticgarbagebag.Justchecktoseethatthebrineiscompletelycoolbeforeyoupour it into theplastic.Makesure theentirebird issubmerged intheliquid.Ifyoudon’thaveroomintherefrigeratorforthebird,youcanstoreitinyourgarageovernightaslongasthetemperaturestayscloseto40°F.Prepare the spitjack following themanufacturer’s directions, and start the

fire(seepage26).Haveextensioncordsifnecessarytoconnectthejacktothenearestoutlet.When the fire is ready, remove the turkey from thebrineanddiscardthebrine.Rinsethebirdwithcoolwateranddry itwithpaper towels.Season thebird inside andoutwith salt andpepper, and then truss thebirdwithbutcher’stwinesothewingsdon’tflapwhileitrevolves.

Thread the bar of the spitjack through the turkey. Youmightneedtogiveitsomeforcewhenthebarispushingthroughtheneck;pleasekeepyourhandsonbothsidesofthebirdwhilepushing.Undernocircumstancesshouldyoubepushingonthebirdwithyourhandlineduptobe

impaledbytherod.

Securethethreemetalspitjackstripsaroundthebird’sbreast,midsection,andaroundthelegs.Iftherearenometalstrips,usebutcher’stwinetosecurethebirdinplace.Lockthebarontothetwoendsofthespitjack,plugin,andturniton.Ifyou

havetostepawayfromthefire,havearesponsiblegrownupstandinforyou.Thebirdwillcookforanywherefrom3½to5hoursdependingonthesize

ofthebirdandtheheatofthefire.Theturkeyisdonewhenitregistersabout140°Fonaninstant-readthermometerinsertedintothethighbutnottouchingthebone.Whenthebirdisdone,youandabuddybothdonheatproofglovesandtake

theentirerodoff therotisserie.Leavetherod in thebirdwhile it rests for15minutes.Whenthebirdhasrested,putyourglovesbackon,useacleandishtowelsoyourglovesaren’ttouchingthebirddirectly,andslidethebirdfirmlyofftherodontoabigplateorbakingtray.Movethebirdtoacleanservingplatter,carveit,andserve.

TUNALOINTIEDPRIMERIB-STYLEWITHSALSAVERDE

Serves10to12

We’re used to seeing tuna as delicate bits of fish, but wrapping awholeloinincaulfatandbastingitwithsalsaverdeoverafirebringsoutwhatIlikemostaboutahi:therichtexture,thecleanflavor,andhowbeautifully this fishplatesup. I like the flavorofgarlicwithahibut don’t want to overwhelm the fish so I blanch the garlic in hotsaltedwater three timesbeforeadding it to thesalsaverde.vCaulfatisawaytoholdthefishtogetherduringcookingwhilesealinginmoistureandholding in the flavorof theherbs thatyoubastewith.Thinkofcaulfatassortofanaturalplasticwrap;thefatmelds intothetunaovertheheatsobythetimethefishisdonethere’snothingleftof it andyouwon’t taste the fatat allon the finished tuna.Askyourbutcher toorder thecaul fat foryouandsoak it inwater forahalfhourbeforeyoustartcooking.

SALSAVERDE

6quartswater3tablespoonskoshersalt2cupswholegarliccloves1½teaspoonsfinelymincedfreshrosemary2teaspoonsgratedlemonzest4tablespoonsmincedfreshflat-leafparsley½teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper¼cupextra-virginoliveoil

4sheetscaulfatOnetunaloin,about5pounds(12incheslongby3incheswideby3incheshigh)

1tablespooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt2teaspoonsfreshlygroundblackpepper

If using a rotisserie over a gas grill, don’t turn on the grill until 10 minutesbeforethefishwillgoontheheat.Ifusingastand-alonerotisserie,startthefireandchecktherotisseriemotortobesureit’spluggedinandworking.

Don’t leave the fire unattended; either bring your worktools outside or have another adult stay near the firewhileyouworkindoors.

FORTHESALSA:Inalargesaucepan,combine8cupsofthewater,1tablespoonof thekoshersalt,and the2cupsofwholegarliccloves.Bring toaboiloverhighheat.Strain,discardingallthewater.Add8freshcupsofwatertothepanwith the garlic and another tablespoon of kosher salt. Bring to a boil again.Againstrainanddiscardthewater.Forthethirdtime,add8cupswaterandtheremaining1tablespoonkoshersalttothepanwiththeclovesofgarlic.Bringtoaboilandagaindiscardthewater.In a food processor, combine the blanched garlic, rosemary, lemon zest,

parsley,½teaspoonofseasalt,and¼teaspoonpepperuntilpuréed.Withthemachine running, add the olive oil slowly until the mixture emulsifies. Thismakes2cups.You’lluse1cuptobastethefishbeforecooking;refrigeratetheremainingsalsaverdetoserveasacondimentatthetable.Soakthecaulfatincoldwaterfor30minutesbeforeusingit.Onaworksurface,rubthetunaloinwith1tablespoonofseasaltand2teaspoonsofgroundblackpepper.UseapastrybrushtobrushthetunawithSalsaVerde.Pullonesheetofcaulfatoutof thewaterandgentlysqueezeoutexcess liquid.Laythecaul fat flatontheworksurface,androllthetunaontothecaulfatsheet.Wrapthecaulfataroundthe tuna.Brushmoresalsaon the tunaand thecaul fatandprepareanothersheetofthefattosmootharoundthetunaloin.Repeatuntilthetunaiscoveredwithfoursmoothedsheetsofcaulfatwithathincoatingofsalsabetweeneach.Slide the wrapped tuna loin onto the rotisserie rod, keeping your hands

safelyoneithersideoftheloin.Withbutcher’stwine,trussthetunaloinprime-ribstyle,securing it tothebar.Lockthebar intoplaceonyourrotisserie,andsetittorotate.Cookuntilthetunaismedium-rare,25to30minutes.Youcanusean instant-read thermometer tocheck the fish.At125°F, the fishwill bedonebutstillpinkatthecenter.Carefullyslidetheloinfromtherod.Cutthetunainto1-inchsliceswithan

electricknifeoraverysharpfishknife,plate,andservewiththereservedsalsaverde.

BRUSSELSSPROUTSWITHLEMONSINAROTISSERIECAGE

Serves6to8

CookingBrusselssproutsinarotisseriecagegivesthemalotmoreflavorthanyou’dgetfromcookingthemintheovenoronthestove.Arotisseriecageletsyouroastsmalleritems—vegetables,smallfish,Gypsypeppers—steadilyovertheflamewithouthavingtopickupaspatula even once. This is a greatway to roast chile peppers, too,whenyouneedalotofthem. Youcanfindrotisseriecagesonlineeasily,and theyusuallycost less than thirtydollars.Usingacage issimple. You slide the spin rod through the cage, and secure it.(Usuallytheyclickintoplace.)Thensnapthespinrodintoplaceonyourgrill.Openthecage’shatchandpourintheBrusselssproutsorpeppers,orwhateveryouwanttocook.Closeupthehatch,starttherotisserie, and you’re cooking. See Resources (page 218) forplaces to find a rotisserie cage but first check with your grillmanufacturertoseeiftheyselloneforyourgrill.

6ouncespancetta4tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil¼cupkoshersalt4dozenBrusselssprouts3lemons2teaspoonscoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

Slice the pancetta into 1-inch lardons about ½ inch wide. Make them bigenoughsotheydon’tfallthroughthebarsofthecage.Pour2tablespoonsoftheoliveoil intoa largesautépanover lowheat.Add thechoppedpancetta.Cookslowlyuntilthepancettaisgoldenbrown,about6minutes.Transferthepancettatoaplattertocoolandsetitasidewhileyousetupthegrill.Ifusinga rotisserieoveragasgrill,don’t turnon thegrilluntil10minutes

before the Brussels sprouts will go over the fire. If using a stand-alonerotisserie,startthefireandchecktherotisseriemotortobesureit’spluggedinand working. Don’t leave the fire unattended; either bring your work toolsoutsideorhaveanotheradultstaynearthefirewhileyouworkindoors.

Insideat your stove, add thekosher salt to a largepotofwateroverhighheat.While thewaterheats, trim just thebarestamountoff thestemofeachBrusselssprout.Youwanttheheadtoholdtogetherwhileturningoverthefiresodon’ttrimtoomuch.Aftertrimming,cutanXinthebottomofeachstem.Whenthewatercomestoaboil,addtheBrusselssproutsandcookjustuntil

theystarttosoften,nomorethan5minutes.Cut the lemons intoquarters. (Don’tslice themor theslicescouldslipout

throughthecage.)Setaside.Transfer the Brussels sprouts out of the pot and onto a baking sheet or

platter to cool.When they’re cool enough to handle, slice them in half fromstem to dome. In a large bowl, toss the Brussels sprouts halves with thelemons,pancetta,remaining2tablespoonsoliveoil,salt,andpepper.Slide thecage intoplaceonyour rotisseriebar.Followthemanufacturer’s

directions: the cage should lock into place on the bar. Spoon the Brusselssprouts into thecage.Lock thebar intoplaceonyour rotisserie,andset it torotate. Cook until the Brussels sprouts show some caramelization, about 20minutes.Stoptherotisserie,takethemoutofthecage,andserve.

TORTASTRIZZAREWITHMAPLE-PECANGRAYSALTICECREAM

Serves6to8

Strizzaremeans“twist”inItalian,andthiscakeisallaboutthetwist.Youmakethedough,roll itout,cut it intostrips,andthenwindthestripsaroundawoodenformshapedlikeatrafficcone.Youslidethedough-wrapped cone onto your rotisserie bar and the cake bakesover your grill as it turns, sending out the tantalizing aromas ofcaramelizing sugar, cinnamon, and butter. Like monkey bread,whenthiscake isbakedandslightlycooled,yourguestsgettopulloff chunks and pop them into their mouths. Make sure all theingredients are at room temperature before youbeginmaking thedough. SeeResources(page218)fortherotisseriecakeform.

6tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,melted,plusextraforbrushingthedoughduringcooking

2tablespoonssugar½teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt1cupwholemilk2cupsall-purposeflour,plusextraforflouringworksurface1package(2¼teaspoons)instantyeast(notfast-acting)1egg,pluseggyolk1½teaspoonsgroundcinnamon2tablespoonssugarMaple-PecanGraySaltIceCream(page177)

Greasealargebowlwithoil;setaside.Meltthe6tablespoonsbutterandsetitaside.Onthestove inasaucepanor in themicrowave inamicrowave-safedish,

add the sugar and salt to themilk, and warm it just to lukewarm (105°F to115°F).Setaside.Whisk together the2cups flourand the instantyeast,andpour it into the

bowlofastandmixer fittedwith thepaddleattachmentoruseahandmixer.Pourinthemilkmixture,egg,andeggyolkandrunthemachineonlowspeed.With themachine running, very slowly drizzle in themelted butter. Beat onmedium-lowspeeduntilanelasticdoughforms,5to7minutes.Transferthedoughtothegreasedbowl,coveritwithplasticwraporaclean

kitchentowel,andsetinadraft-freespotfor1hourtorise.Slidethewoodencakeformontotherotisseriebar,andsecureitinplace.On a lightly floured work surface, gently roll the dough into a rectangle

about16incheslongand12incheswide.Cutthedoughintostrips16incheslong and about three fingers’ width. Combine the cinnamon and sugar; setaside.

Gettingthestripstostayinplaceontheformistricky.Youwanttousejustalittleof themeltedbutter thatyousetasideto lightlybrushthedoughasyouroll the strips; if you use too much butter, the strips will slide right off thewoodenform,sobesparingwiththebutter.

THISPART ISBESTDONEWITHAPARTNER:onepersonholds therodand theothergently rolls the strips around the form, pressing thedough intoplacebeforeaddingthenextstripofdough.Youwanttochannelthoseelementaryschooldayswhenyouturnedstripsofnewspaperintopapiermâché.Thisisthesameconcept. The nice people who make the wooden cake form have made ahomemade video.Watch it and get a sense of how the dough goes on theform:www.twistacake.com.Whenall thedough iswrappedevenly around the form, sprinkle it evenly

withthecinnamon-sugar.Lockthebarintoplaceonyourrotisserie,andsetitto rotate.Let thecakebakeuntil brownall thewayaroundwith caramelizedsugar,15to20minutes.Letthecakecoolontheformfor15minutes.Gentlypulltheformoutofthecake,andsetthewholecakeonaplatter.Toserve,haveguestspulloffpieces fromthecake toenjoywithbowlsof

icecream.

MAPLE-PECANGRAYSALTICECREAMMakes1½pints

Salt,roastednuts,maple,andcream.Thisicecreamissimplebut—fair warning—it’s addictive. Seek out Grade B maple syrup. It’scounter-intuitive,butGradeBmaplesyrupisactuallythebestchoicewhentheflavorofeachingredientmatters.

¾cupchoppedpecans⅔cupGradeBmaplesyrup2cupsheavycream⅔cupwholemilk¼teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt

Inacast-ironskilletoverthefire,toastthenuts,shakingthepantokeepthemfromburning.Assoonasyoucansmell them,pour thenutsoutof theskilletandontoaplate tocool. (Youcanalso toast thenutsonabakingsheet ina325°Fovenfor10to15minutes,takingcarethattheydon’tovercook.)Setthenutsasidetocool.Indoorsatthestove,inalargesaucepanovermediumheat,bringthemaple

syrup just to a boil. Decrease the heat to low and simmer for 5minutes tothicken.Takethepanofftheheatandwhiskinthecream,milk,andsalt.Transferthe

mixturetoabowltocooltoroomtemperature.Ifyouwantthemixturetocoolfaster, set thebowl inan icebath (a largebowlof icewater).Refrigerate themixture,covered,foratleast1hourorupto3days.Freezethemixtureinanice-creammakeraccordingtothemanufacturer’s

directions.Whentheicecreamisalmostatthedesiredconsistency,stirinthenutsandcontinuefreezinganother5minutes.Inanairtightcontainer,thiscankeepinyourfreezerforweeks—althoughit

neverlaststhatlongatmyhouse.

BACKYARDCAMP-OUTBREAKFAST

Breakfast over a campfire is the best. It’s greatwhen you’re backpacking through themountainsbutit’sequallygreatinyourownbackyard.ThisisabreakfastImadewhensomeofmyson’sfriendsspent the night. One thing I know for sure: if ahalf-dozen kids are sleeping in tents in yourbackyard,you’renotgoingtoget thebestnight’ssleep.This meal is easy enough for sleep-deprived

parentsbutwe’veaddedsomecampfiretricksthatkidswilllove.

MENU

PainPerdu(FrenchToast)

SausagesCookedonLongForks

Brown-BaggedEggsandBacon

Melon,TwoWays:MelonPlatter(forkids)andMelonSaladwithRicottaSalataandTornMint(forgrown-ups)

MaltedHotChocolatewithFire-ToastedMarshmallows

PAINPERDU(FRENCHTOAST)Serves6

Thebetter thebread, thebetter the toast!Trybreadssuchaschallah, raisin-walnut,orbreadswithdriedsourcherriesorotherdriedfruit.ThisFrenchtoastisgreatwhenmadefromday-oldbreadslices.Manyfolkscan’timagineFrenchtoastwithoutrealmaplesyrup,andIagree

that’sgood,butlatelyI’vebeenpouringapplecidersyrupovermyFrenchtoastandpancakesforanicechangeofpace.I’veaddedasplashofrum.Leaveitoutifyoulike,butitaddsjustahintof

flavorandanyalcoholburnsoffduringcooking.

4eggs¾cupheavycream½teaspoongroundcinnamon¼teaspoongroundginger1teaspoongratedorangezest1tablespoondarkrum(optional)3tablespoonslightbrownsugar1teaspoonpurevanillaextract

2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter2tablespoonspeanutorcanolaoil6thickslicescountrybread,preferablyslightlystale

1½cupsrealmaplesyruporapplecidersyrup,warmedinthemicrowave

Inalargebowl,whisktogethertheeggs,cream,cinnamon,ginger,zest,rum(ifusing),brownsugar,andvanilla.Pourthemixtureintoashallowbowlorbakingdish.Start a fireor ignite charcoal. If usingagasgrill, start it about10minutes

beforeyou’rereadytocook.(Makesurethere’sanadultwatchingit;don’twalkawayfromalitgrill.)Preheataplanchaoracast-ironpanoverthefireoronthegrill, or heat a skillet at the stove. Add 1 tablespoon of the butter and 1

tablespoonoftheoiltothehotpan.(Ifusingaplancha,addallthebutterandalltheoil,andcookalltheslicesatonetime.)HaveawarmedplatterreadyforthecookedFrenchtoast.Slidethebreadslicesintotheeggmixtureandturnsotheeggsoaksboth

sides.Ifyoulikeyoucanletthebreadsoakintheeggmixturefor5minutesbutifthekidsarehungry,forgetaboutthesoakandjustcook.Placeasmanyslicesascanfitontothehotpan.Cookuntilthebreadisgoldenbrownonthebottom,about 2 minutes. Turn and cook until the other side is browned, another 2minutes.With tongs or a spatula, transfer the toast to thewarmedplatter. Add the

remainingbutter andoil to thepanandcook the remaining slices if needed.Setoutwarmedsyrupinasmallpitcher.

SAUSAGESCOOKEDONLONGFORKSServes6

Nothing isas funasholdinga long forkor stickovera firewhilebrowningasausageorroastingamarshmallow.IbuythebestmildsausagesIcanforthekids(withafewspicyItaliansausagesforme)andpoachtheminhotwaterinthe house before I bring them out to the fire. You can also buy cookedsausages,ifyoulike,whichonlyneedheating.

2dozensweetItaliansausages(oranylinksausageyoulike)

Poach the sausages in simmeringwater until they’redone, about5minutes.Outside,slideasausage(orseveralifyouhavemulti-prongforks)ontotheendofalong-handledforkandholditoverthefireuntiltheskiniscrispandbrownallthewayaround.

BROWN-BAGGEDEGGSANDBACONServes6

Cookingbaconandeggsinapaperbagismycampfireversionoftheclassictechniqueenpapillote—cookinginaparchment-paperpacket.Theold-schoolmethod is to rub some raw bacon inside the bottom of a brown paper bag,spreadouttherawbacontocoverthebottom,andcrackopenanegganddropitdownonthebacon.Thenyoufoldupthebag,pokeastickthroughthefold,and hold the bag by the stick over the coals until the bacon and eggs havecooked.Thiscantakeahalfanhour,whichisfineifyou’resittingatthetopofamountainrangewithacoupleofoldfriendsdrinkingcoffee.Foragroupofsix-

year-olds(andthedadincharge)thirtyminutesequalsinfinityandbeyond.Outofsheernecessity(towardoffinsanity),here’sthefastermethod:cook

thebaconinacast-ironskilletoraplanchauntilit’saboutthree-quartersdonebutnotyetcrisp.Greasetheinsideofthesackswithafewslicesofrawbacon.Withtongs,lineupthepartiallycookedbaconinthebottomofeachkid’sbag.(Don’t letthekidsfoolaroundnearthehotbacongrease;I’mjustsayin’.)Askeachkid ifhewantsoneeggor two inhisbag,andthencrackeachegganddropitontothewarmbacon,foldupthebag,putitonastick,andleteachkidholdhissackoverthefire.Warnthemthatiftheygetthebagtooclosetothefireit’llflameup.Expectflame-upsandhaveplentyofbacon,eggs,andbrownbagsonhand.

18slices(giveortake)ofthick-cutbacon,plus2slicesforgreasingthesacks

1or2eggsforeverykid,plusextra6plainschoollunch–sizebrownbags,plusextra6sturdysticks,eachabout1yardlong,forholdingthebagoverthefire

Build a fire (if you don’t already have one going from the French toast).Preheat a cast-iron skillet or a plancha over the fire. Cook the 18 slices ofbaconuntiltheyshowcolorbutaren’tyetcrisp.Whilethebaconcooks,setupabrownbagforeachkidonastablesurface.Grabtwoslicesofrawbacon,kindofrollthemalittle,andusethemtogreasetheinsideofeachsack.(Thosetwoslices should grease up all the bags, no problem.)With tongs, transfer threeslicesofmostlycookedbaconintothebottomofeachgreasedsack.Foreachbag,crackaneggintoasmallbowlordish(youcanletthekidsdo

this)andthenusethebowltoslidetheegg intoabagso itsitsontopof thewarmbacon.Don’tleavethebowlinthebag.It’sokayiftheeggyolkbreaks.Foldthetopofeachbagatleastthreetimes.Cutaholethroughthefoldand

slidethebagontoalongstick.

Don’tskimponthestick—youwantthekidssittingagooddistancefromthefire.

Leteachkidholdtheirbagoverthefire.Warnthemabouteightytimesthatthebagwillburniftheygetittooclosetothecoals.Watchasseveralofthebagsburn,andhavesomeoneresponsiblesittingbesidethekidswhileyoureplacethebaconandeggsacksthataresacrificedtothecoals.Whentheeggsaredone,after10to15minutes,peelthebrownbagaway

from thebaconandeggs,or justhand thekids some forksand let themeatrightoutofthebag.Whenthekidsarefinishedeating,IgiveourdogDashanyleftoverbaconandeggs(there’susuallynotmuch)andthenburntheemptiedbagsrightonthefire.

MELON,TWOWAYS

MELONPLATTER(FORKIDS)ANDMELONSALADWITHRICOTTASALATAANDTORNMINT(FORGROWN-UPS)

Thekidsdon’tneeda formalsalad; they’llbehappierwithaplatterofsweet,ripemelonscutupintotriangularslices.(Leaveontherindsothewedgesareeasiertopickup.)Ifyoulike,addsomeripestrawberriestotheplatter.For the grown-ups swinging by to pick up their children, why not toss

togetheragussied-upbutquickversionofamelonsalad.It’ssosimpleyoucanbeprettycasualaboutamounts:For6servings,putabout6cupsmeloncubesinabowl, tossonabout¾cupcrumbledorgratedricottasalatacheese,andaddsomehand-torn freshmint leaves.Drizzleon2 tablespoonsoliveoilandsomeseasaltandblackpepper,tosstocombine,andheadonoutside.

CHEF’SNOTE:Whenitcomestomelon,don’tgethungupontheideathatyouhave tohave the tripleplayofwatermelon, cantaloupe, andhoneydew.LookforvarietalssuchasTuscanmelonswhenatthefarmers’marketandbuythemelonswiththebestfragrance.

MALTEDHOTCHOCOLATEWITHFIRE-TOASTEDMARSHMALLOWS

Serves8

Hotchocolatewithmarshmallows thatyou toastovera fire—Ican’t thinkofabetterdrinkforasleepoverbreakfast.Youcanpour themilkandchocolatepieces intoapanandset itover the

fire.(Bringalongawhisktofrothitup.)Youcanalsoheatthemilkatyourstoveandpourthehotchocolateintoathermossoyoudon’thavetogobackinthehousetoreheatit.OnethingI’velearnedthroughexperience:Onekidwilltastethis,thunkhis

mugdownon the table,andsay, “Idon’t likemalt.”You’llhaveasmallstare-downandhewillwin.Keepthemaltpowdernearbyand let thekidsspoon itinto their own cups. A good rule of thumb is either 2 tablespoons of maltpowderor2teaspoonsofsugarper8ouncesofmilk—butdon’taddboththemaltpowderandsugar.

4ouncesbittersweetchocolate,preferably72percentcacao8cupswholemilkMaltedpowder(suchasOvaltine)orsugar16to24largemarshmallows

Chop the chocolate into small pieces (seeChef’sNote, following). In a largepan, heat the milk over medium-high heat. Add the chocolate to the milk.Whiskconstantlyuntilthechocolateisallmeltedandthemilkisfoamy,1to2minutes.When thechocolate ishot (butdon’t let itboil),pour intomugs.Leteachkidstirinhisorherownmaltpowder(orsugar)buttrytolimitthemto3tablespoonsofmaltpowderpermugor2teaspoonsofsugar.Topwith twoor threemarshmallows thathavebeenheldoveracampfire

until they’re golden and toasty—or charred black outside, if that’s yourmarshmallowpreference.

CHEF’S NOTE:Whenchoppinga solidbarof chocolate, use a chef’s knife andstartatonecorner,movingthebladefromacornerofthebarata45-degreeangle and chopping inward toward the middle of the bar. Then turn yourcutting board and chop in the opposite direction so you have tiny chocolatechunksthatmelteasily.Here’s a quick rule of thumb for measuring chocolate: 1 ounce of solid

chocolate equals about 4 tablespoons when finely chopped. You want 2tablespoons(or½ounce)ofchocolatepercupofmilk.

CHAPTEREIGHT

THELASTOFTHEFIRE:COALSANDEMBERS

WhenIreadthebookSevenFires,byArgentinechefFrancisMallmann, it had a profound impact on me. Here was thisinternationally renowned chef, stripping away all thenonessential elements fromhis cooking, andharnessing firetocreate themostbeautiful,soulful foods. Iespecially lovedtoseehowFranciscookedincoalsandembers,atechniquehe calls rescoldo. He wrote, “Like country folk all over theworld, the IndiansofArgentinabelieved thatnothingshouldbewasted. This includes fire—as long as it can be used forcooking,oneshoulduseit.”This struck a chord with me because the country folk in

Italywhoaremyrelativesfeltandstillfeelthisbeliefstrongly:fuel is an expensive commodity for southern Italians and itcan never be wasted. Even as a child, I knew that it waswrong—itwas throwingawaygoodmoney—tonotuseeverybitofthewood.Ember roasting calls for a different mind-set than for

cookingoverfreshwoodorcharcoal.Emberroastingcannotbe for the dinner you’re cooking now. It requires somethoughtaboutthenextday’smeals.Whenthefireisburningdown,afteryourlastguesthasleft,whenthelastglowofthecoals is almost hidden by the ash, then you can pusheggplantsandonionsintotheembers,andstarttoplanwhat

youwillmakethenextday:lambburgerssweetenedwiththeroastedonion,ormaybeasquashsoup.Howaboutpumpkinsasyou’veneverseenthembefore?This method isn’t meant for fresh fuel. Don’t anger the

charcoalgodsbystartingafirejusttousetheembers.Ifyouneedroastedonionpuréebutdon’thavedyingcoals touse,see the alternate method that lets you make a purée fromonionslicesgrilledoverlivecoals.

Ember-RoastedOnionPuréePuréefromGrilledOnionsPuréedOnionVinaigretteEmber-RoastedGarlicEmber-RoastedEggplantPuréeBabaGhanoushwithToastedPineNutTahiniandSoccaBruschettawithCoal-RoastedGarlicandGrilledTomatoesSmashingPumpkinswithMintPestoandGoatCheese

EMBER-ROASTEDONIONPURÉE

HEREARETWOMETHODSFORMAKINGTHESAMEONIONPURÉE

Makesabout1½cupspurée

I loveusingthe lastofafiretoroastvegetablesforthenextnight’sdinner.Please don’t start a charcoal fire just to roast veggies. Youcan burn through pounds of charcoal trying to roast a few onionsthatcostdimestodollarswhatyoupaidforthefuel. Instead,thinkaboutwhatyouhaveinsidethehousewhenyou’redonewithafire.Bring out the red peppers, the onions, the eggplant, a few smallsquash, or a small pumpkin. Bury what you have in the hot coals.Within20to40minutes,they’llbedoneandyoucansetthemasideandplanhowyou’llusethemthenextday. Anyonionwillworkforthismethod.IliketousesweeteronionssuchasVidaliasbutregularyellowonionsarewonderful,ifthat’swhat’sonhand. HowdoIusethispurée?Iputsomeundertheskinofachickenbeforeroasting.Iaddittogroundlambforburgers(seepage70),orIuseittomakeacrustforaroastorporkloin. Iaddittosoup,andImakeadamnedgoodvinaigretteoutofit.

2largewholeyellowonions,withskinintact

Whenthecoalsshowonlyahintofredandyoucanfeelwithyourhandsthatthefire’sheathasdieddown,useapokerorlongtongstopushtheonionsintothe embers and rake or shovel coals on top. They’re done when a skewerslides easily into the onion, 20 to 40minutes, depending on the heat of thecoals.Peeltheonionsanddiscardthepeels.Theonionitselfwillbeverysoft;take

care to keep as much ash out of it as possible. Put the onions in a food

processororblender,andprocessuntiltherearenolargechunks.Inanairtightcontainer,thepuréewillkeepfor3daysinyourfridgeorforup

to1monthinyourfreezer.

PURÉEFROMGRILLEDONIONSMakesabout1½cupspurée

Ifyouneedtheonionpuréefor the lambburgersor thevinaigretteandyoudon’thaveacharcoal fire that’smostlyburneddown,peelandcut theonions into thick rounds,drizzlewitholiveoil, salt, andpepper,andgrilluntiltheslicesshowsomebrownonbothsides.Wedid a taste test between the ember-roasted onion purée and onemadefromgrilledonions:Thepuréefromonionsroastedincoalsisa pale, creamier color because their skins keep them free of ash.Puréemadefromgrilledonionsliceswasmuchdarkerincolorandsweeterfromthecaramelizationaswellassmokier. Youcangrillthickonionslicesrightonthegrill rack,but ifyourslicesarea littlethinneruseagrillbasketsoyoudon’tsacrificetoomuchoniontothefire.

2yellowonions,slicedinto½-inch-thickrounds3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil1teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

Drizzletheonionsliceswitholiveoilonbothsides,andsprinklewithsaltandpepper.Put on a grill (use a grill basket if the rounds begin to slip apart) orcookonahotgrillpanoverhighheatonyourstove.Cooktheonionsoverahotfirefor8to10minutes,andthenturntheslices

(orthebasket)andgrilltheothersideuntiltheslicesshowalotofcharbutstillhavesomejuiceinthem,another6to8minutes.Lettheonionscoolforatleast30minutesandthenprocesstheslicesina

foodprocessororblenderuntilasmoothpuréeforms.Inanairtightcontainer,thepuréewillkeepfor3daysinyourfridgeorforup

to1monthinyourfreezer.

PURÉEDONIONVINAIGRETTEMakesabout1½cups

Because the grilled onions were salted before roasting, don’t addsaltorpepperuntilyou’vemixedthevinaigrette.Thentasteandseeif it needs more seasoning. Pour this over a winter salad oforangesandfennelortangerinesandradishes.Inthesummer,Iusethis to dress a salad of strawberries, organic greens, and bluecheese.

1cupEmber-RoastedOnionPurée3tablespoonswhitebalsamicvinegar1tablespoonwater¼cupextra-virginoliveoilCoarseseasalt(ifneeded),preferablygraysaltFreshlygroundblackpepper,ifneeded

Inafoodprocessororablender,combinetheonionpurée,vinegar,andthe1tablespoonwater.With themachine on, slowly pour in the olive oil until thedressingemulsifies.Tastebeforeseasoning.Covered,thiswillkeepinthefridgefor2weeksbutyoumayneedtostirit

beforepouring.

EMBER-ROASTEDGARLIC

Evenifyouhavenothingelsetoroastinadyingfire,bringoutyourgarlic.Whole heads of garlic are ideal to roast in the embers. Youdon’tneeda recipe. Justgiveeachheadagooddrizzleofoliveoilandasprinkleofseasaltandpepper.Double-wrap in foilandburythepacketsinthecoals.Lowembersarebetterforthese—ifthefireistoohotthegarliccanburnandturnbitter. Leavethepacketsinthefireforanhourorso,thentakethemout,andletthegarliccool.Squeeze the garlic paste out of each clove just as youwouldwithoven-roasted garlic. I generally roast four whole heads of garlicthisway,andthenmakeRoastedGarlicPaste(page212).Itfreezeswellandyou’llbegladtohaveastashofit.

EMBER-ROASTEDEGGPLANTPURÉEMakesabout3cupspurée

AtBottega,wefoldthissilkyeggplantpuréeintogroundlambthatisshapedontoskewersas spiedini andgrilled.Athome, I like tousethis as the base for baba ghanoush (see page 190) because thesmokiness suits the eggplant’s texture. I’ve also included analternatemethodforroastingthevegetablesintheoven.

2Italianeggplantswithstemsandpeelintact1largeyellowonionwithpeel2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil½teaspoonchoppedfreshthyme1tablespooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysaltPinchoffreshlygroundblackpepper

Pierce theeggplants fouror five timeswithaskewer;don’tpierce theonion.Whenawoodorcharcoalfirehasburneddowntoglowingcoalsthatarejustbeginningtolosetheirredcolor,useapokerorlongtongstopushtheonionsandeggplantsintotheembersandrakeorshovelcoalsontop.Cookuntil theonion andeggplants are soft and a skewer slides in easily,

about 20 minutes for the onion and 30 to 40 minutes for the eggplants,dependingontheheatofthecoals.Whenyoutakethemoutofthecoals,setthemasideuntilthey’recoolenoughtohandle.Halve the eggplants lengthwise and scoop out the flesh directly into the

bowlofafoodprocessor.Takecarenottogetashintheflesh.Peeltheonion,discardthepeel,andplacetheonioninthefoodprocessorwiththeeggplant.Puréeuntilsmooth.Heatalargesautépanovermedium-highheatandpourintheoil.Whenit’s

hot,addthethymeandthenimmediatelyaddthe2cupsofthepurée,salt,andpepper.Sautéuntilthemixtureisalmostdry.Nowherecomesthetediouspart:Pushthemixture throughamediumsievewith thebackofawoodenspoon.Thisisslowworkbutworththeeffortforthesilken,smoothresult.

INTHEOVEN:Youcanroasttheeggplantsandonionsinyourovenifyouprefer.Preheat theoven to500°F, andbe sure topierceeacheggplant fouror fivetimes. Set them on a rimmed baking sheet, and roast until a skewer slideseasily into theeggplant,about40minutes.Let themcool, thencontinuewiththerecipe.

BABAGHANOUSHWITHTOASTEDPINENUTTAHINIANDSOCCA

Serves6asanappetizer

The best eggplant dip—baba ghanoush—startswith ember-roastedeggplant.Asatwist,hereit’smixedwitharomaticpinenuts,toastedand ground, in place of the usual ground sesame seed in MiddleEastern tahini paste. Socca, made with chickpea flour, are likepancakes but they’re savory and lighter in texture. In Nice, wheresoccaispopularstreetfaremadebyvendorscookingoversmokinggrills, theyspread thebatter thinandmake theirsocca large.Cooksoccaonaplanchaorcast-ironskilletoverafire, inyourhearth,oron agasor charcoal grill. You canmake socca in yourovenbut itlackssomethingwhenit’snotcookedoverafire.

SOCCA

1cupchickpeaflour(seeResources,page218)1cupplus1tablespoonChickenBroth(page217)orwater¾teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt,plusextraforfinish2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreforthepan1teaspoonfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice½teaspoonmincedgarlic

BABAGHANOUSH

¼cupextra-virginoliveoil¼cuppinenuts3sprigsfreshrosemary,plusmoreforgarnish2cupsEmber-RoastedEggplantPurée(page189)1garlicclove,minced1teaspoonfreshlysqueezedlemonjuiceCoarseseasalt,preferablygraysaltFreshlygroundblackpepperDrizzleofyourbestextra-virginoliveoil,forfinish

FORTHESOCCA: Inamediumbowl,mixtogetherthechickpeaflour,broth, the¾teaspoonsalt,2tablespoonsoftheoliveoil,lemonjuice,andgarlic.Mixwell,cover,andletthebatterrestfor1½hoursatroomtemperature.Warm a large platter and have it ready before you start cooking. You’ll

probablywanttocooktheseonafireyou’reusingtocookotherfoods,too.Setaplanchaorlargecast-ironskillettoheatoveramedium-highfireoronyourgasgrill for at least10minutes. If baking the socca in youroven, preheat to500°F.Pourthesoccabatterintoapitcherorameasuringcupwithaspout.When theplanchaor pan is blazinghot—hot enough sodroplets ofwater

scatteronthesurface—brushthesurfacewithalittleoliveoil.Pourbatterontothe hot plancha or pan, to form cakes about 3 inches across.Cook until thetops show largebubblesaround theedges, about30seconds.Flipall of thesoccawithaspatulaandcookjustuntilgoldenbrown,another20secondsorso.Transfertothewarmplatterandcover;continuecookinguntilyou’veused

allthebatter.They’rebestservedwarmoffthefire,butifyouneedto,coverthesoccaandkeepthemwarmina200°Fovenuntilreadytoserve.

FORTHEBABAGHANOUSH:Lineaplatewithpapertowels.Heatasmallsautépanoverhighheatonthestoveoronyourgrill.Addtheoliveoil.Whenit’shot,addthepinenuts.Toastthemuntilthey’regoldenbrown(don’tovercookthem).Assoon as they begin to show color, slide them out of the pan and onto thepaper-lined plate to cool. Toss the rosemary sprigs into the hot pan to crispthem. Take them off the heat, and let them cool. Mince the leaves of therosemary.You’llneedjust1tablespoonofthemincedtoastedrosemary.Whenthepinenutsarecool,grindtheminasmallfoodprocessororwitha

mortarandpestleuntiltheyformapaste.Ina largebowl, fold thepinenutpaste into theeggplantpurée,andstir in

the garlic, lemon juice, and 1 tablespoon of the minced toasted rosemary.Tasteandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Refrigerateuntilreadytoserve.

To serve, spoon a few tablespoons of the baba ghanoush on one side of aservingplate,anduse thebackof thespoon to formanartful smear.Drizzlesomeofyourbestoliveoiloverthesmear.Arrangethesoccaontheothersideoftheplate—cutseveralofthesoccainhalfjustforvisualcontrast—andgarnishtheplatewithfreshrosemaryifyoulike.Servewhilestillwarm.

BRUSCHETTAWITHCOAL-ROASTEDGARLICANDGRILLEDTOMATOES

Serves6

BruschettacomesfromtheRomanwordbruscare,whichmeanstoroast over coals. For at least 800 years, Romans and Italians havebeencrispingupbreadover theheat. I don’t see this goingout offashionduringmy lifetime. Theraftofgrilledbreadcanhold justabout any topping but this one is a classic: warm, soft garlic andsomegrilledtomatoesonbreadtoastedoverafire...sitback,pouryourselfsomewine,andbehappy.

6to8mediumtolargeripetomatoes,preferablyheirloomDrizzleofextra-virginoliveoilCoarseseasalt,preferablygraysaltFreshlygroundblackpepperAsprinkleofchoppedfreshthyme,freshflat-leafparsley,orfreshoregano

6slicesfromacountryloafofbread,cutabout½inchthickEmber-RoastedGarlic(page187)orRoastedGarlicPaste(page212)

Havereadyacampfireoracharcoalfirethat’sbeginningtoburndownsothecoals aremostlygrayor turn agasgrill tohigh.When it’s hot, clean thegrillrackandthendecreasethegasgrill’stemperaturetomedium-high.Cut an X in the base of each tomato and coat each lightly with olive oil.

Placethetomatoesonthehotgrill,X-sideup,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Letthetomatoescookfor8to10minutes.Withtongs,turnthetomatoesX-

sidedownandcookforanother3to5minutes.Ifusingagasgrill,keeptheliddownwhilethetomatoescook.Whenthey’resoftbutstillfirmenoughtostandontheirown,takethetomatoesofftheheatwithtongs.Waituntil they’recoolenoughtohandle, thenseedandpeel thetomatoes

andchopcoarsely.Sprinklewithherbsandtaste.Addmoresaltandpepperifyoulike.Skewereachpieceof breadon a stick andhold it over the fireor lay the

breadslicesonthehotgrillrack.Giveitjustaminuteandthenturnthemoversothebreadistoastedonbothsidesbutnotdriedoutinthecenter.Spread each slicewith some roasted garlic, spoon on tomatoes, sit back,

andenjoy.

IDON’TSEETHISGOINGOUTOFFASHIONDURINGMYLIFETIME.

SMASHINGPUMPKINSWITHMINTPESTOANDGOATCHEESEEachpumpkinserves4people

Bigfiresmeanbigsmolderingpilesofembers;that’swhenit’stimetoburypumpkins in theashes. If you thinkofpieswhenyou thinkabouteatingpumpkin,thiswillchangeyourpointofview. Forgetabout those big pumpkins that beg to be carved into jack-o’-lanterns.Choose small flavorful varietieswith tender flesh, suchasSugarPiepumpkins.Thefarmers’market isagoodplacetoscopeout some heirloom breeds such as Small Sugar, Wintery Luxury,SnowWhite,orBabyPam.This isalsoagoodrecipetomakewithkabochasquashfromJapan.

2smallheirloompumpkins,about3poundseach1¼cupsMintPesto(page32)16ouncesfreshgoatcheeseCoarseseasalt,preferablygraysaltFreshlygroundblackpepper

You’llwanttocookpumpkinsattheveryendofthefire,whenthere’ssomeredshowing in theembersbutmostly it’sburneddowntograyash.Firstsawoffthepumpkins’stemssotheydon’tflameupinthecoals.Burythepumpkinsinthe hot embers, shoveling hot coals on top to cover them completely. Cookuntil an instant-read thermometer slid into the side of one of the pumpkinsregisters150°F.Takethepumpkinsoutoftheembers,andletthemcoolforatleast30minutes.

Nowcomesthefunpart:breakingthepumpkinsintopieces.Wearheat-proofglovesandlongsleeves.Withafirmbutcontrolledmotion,slamthepumpkininto a sharp object: I use the corner of my stone table but for a little moredrama you could use a small axe or hatchet to give each pumpkin a hardknock.

In a perfect world the pumpkin breaks into two more-orless evenhemispheres,butifitbreaksintopieces,justgowithit.Scrapeoffmostoftheseeds (don’t worry about a few stragglers) and serve the pumpkin with theinside facingup; youdon’tneedbowlsorplatesbecause thepumpkin is theplate. Spoon some of the pesto right onto the flesh, top with cheese, andsprinklewithseasaltandpepper.Ifyoulikeyoucanaddanairysaladorkeepitsimplewithjustthecheeseandpesto.Eatrightfromthegourd,withtwopeoplesharingeachhalf.Useaspoonto

scrapeupsomeofthetenderroastedfleshwitheachbite.

CHEFFRANCISMALLMANNINSPIREDTHISSOULFULMETHODOFCOOKINGPUMPKINS.

CHAPTERNINE

FIREANDICE:COLDDRINKS

Anice-colddrinktogowithwhateveryou’recookingoverthefire—that’s a given. The cocktails that I serve outdoors aredifferent frommy indoorcocktails. Imake themwithbolderflavors, andgive someahit of smoke.Evenwhenyou startwithclassiccocktails—aBloodyMaryoramargarita—youcanshake things up, and add a little interest. Here’s proof thatcocktailscanbesparkedbythesamecreativitythatyoubringtoyourcooking.Themostimportantpartyingredientduringhotweatheris

ice;haveplentyoficeincoolersbeforethepartystarts.Onepoundoficeperpersonisagoodstartingpoint.

GrilledZinfandelSangriaBloodyMatadorRoastedApricotPuréeRoastedApricotBelliniDanDuckhorn’sFirst-NightCocktailRedBeerSmokedTequilaMargaritaHighwayman’sMojitoMeyerLemonVerbenaWaterRoastedStrawberryLemonadewithHerbSyrups

GRILLEDZINFANDELSANGRIAMakesabout5cups

Grilling lemon and orange slices and halved grapes intensifies thefruitandgivesthesangriaasmoky,richflavor.Youcanincreasetheamountof thisdrinkeasilyby following thisproportion: forevery1cupof redwinepour in1ounceof brandy and1ounceof simplesyrup. If you like, grill extra fruit and set up a small sangria barwherepeoplecangarnishtheirdrinkwithasmuchfruitastheylike. Make this at least 4 hours in advance to give the wine time toabsorbtheflavorsofthefruit.

2oranges,cutinto½-inch-thicksliceswithpeel2lemons,cutinto½-inch-thicksliceswithpeel1largeclusterofgrapes,fruitcutinhalf4cupsZinfandel4ouncesSimpleSyrup(page32)4ouncesbrandy

Onacleangrillrackoveragasgrilloracharcoalfirethatishalfburneddown,grillthecitrusslices.Putthegrapehalvesinafine-meshgrillbasket.Grilluntilthecitrusslicesshowsomebrown,about2minutesperside.Shake thegrillbasketevery30secondsorsotoallowthegrapestocookevenly.Takeallthefruitoffthefirewhenit’sjuicyandsmoky;don’t let itdeveloptoomuchblackchar.Putallthefruitinthefridgetocool.In a large glass pitcher or decanter, mix together the Zinfandel, simple

syrup,andbrandy.Addthefruittothepitcherandchilluntilreadytoserve.Addicetothepitcher,butnotuntilyourguestsarethereandyou’restartingtopour.

BLOODYMATADORMakes1cocktail

ABloodyBull is a classic cocktail that combinesbeefbouillonandtomato juice. We’ve revved it up by grilling the tomatoes beforejuicing and then reducingbeef stock so it’s a little higher octane. Iservethisjetcoldinsmallricebowlswithatinydiceofcelery,cukes,andtomatoesinthebottom.(Abrunoiseisachef’strickwhereyoudicetheveggiesintotinyneatcubes.)Thedrinkisfullflavoredandthe final taste of crunchy, raw vegetables is a cool, refreshingsurpriseattheend.

1½ouncesvodka2½ouncesGrilledTomatoBloodyMaryBlend(page214)1½ouncesbeefstockreduction(seeChef’sNote)¾teaspoonbrunoisediceofheirloomtomatoes¾teaspoonbrunoisediceofcelery¾teaspoonbrunoisediceofpeeled,seededcucumber

In a cocktail shaker, pour the vodka, tomatoblend, andbeef stock reductionover ice.Shakeuntilcold.Addthedicedvegetablestoasmallbowlandpourthedrinkthroughastrainerontothevegetables.Serverightaway.

CHEF’SNOTE:Tomakethereduction,pour2cupsofBeefStock(page216)intoasaucepanovermedium-highheat.Cookuntilthestockisreducedtojust½cup,about10minutes.

ROASTEDAPRICOTPURÉEMakesabout1¼cups

I cook the apricots on a cast-iron pan or plancha set on the grillbecause I want to heat them until they’re so soft they barely holdtheir shape. Don’t use any oil with these because oil wouldoverwhelmthesubtlenotesoftheProseccointhecocktail.

1poundfreshapricots(about8to10fruit),halvedandpitted

Setacast-ironpanorplanchaoverahotgrill rackovermediumtomedium-highheat.Place the fruitonahotsurfaceandgrilluntil they’rebrownedandvery, very soft, 6 to8minutesoneach side.Let the fruit cool for at least15minutes.Inablenderorfoodprocessororwithanimmersionblender,puréethefruit

(withskin)untilit’salittlesmootherthanapplesauce.Chillthepuréeforatleast1hour. Ifcovered tightly,withplasticwrapsmoothedacross the top, thiswillkeepinyourfridgefor2days.

ROASTEDAPRICOTBELLINIMakes1cocktail

Roasting the fruitbringsawholenewattitude to theclassicBellini,whichImakewithProseccoinsteadofChampagne. Thisdrinkwillhaveflecksofblackcharfromthefruit,whichIlike.

1ounceRoastedApricotPurée(preceding)¾ounceSimpleSyrup(page32)5ouncesProsecco

Pourtheapricotpuréeandsimplesyrupintoatall,chilledglass.StirandpourontheProsecco.

DANDUCKHORN’SFIRST-NIGHTCOCKTAILMakes1cocktail

1jiggerpremiumvodka1dashcelerysalt3dashesWorcestershiresauce¼teaspoonpreparedhorseradish,plusmoreifyoulikeCoarseseasalt,preferablygraysaltFreshlygroundblackpepper1dashjalapeñohotsauceorTabascosauce4to6ouncesClamatojuice1pickledgreenbean(optional)

Fill atall glass halfway with ice cubes. Pour in the vodka, celery salt,Worcestershire,horseradish,salt,pepper,andhotsauce.FilltheglasstherestofthewaywithClamatojuice.Stirvigorouslyandgarnishwithapickledstringbeanifyoulike.

REDBEERMakes1cocktail

Thisismyfavoritedrinkonahotday.It’saproportionof25percentBloodyMaryblendto75percentbeer.Youcaneyeballit—youdon’treallyneedtomeasure.IlikeaCorona-stylebeerforthisoneinsteadofamicrobrew,and Ipour thisdrinkalways,always intoa tall, ice-coldglass.

1limewedgeCoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt2ouncesGrilledTomatoBloodyMaryBlend(page214)6ouncesice-coldbeer,suchasCorona

Rubthelimeontherimofatall,chilledglass,anddiptherimintoseasalt.Pourthe tomatomix into theglass, takingcarenot to splash thesalt.Pouron thebeer,andenjoy...preferablyinahammockbesidealake.

CITRUSVARIATION: Ifyoudon’twant tomakeup theBloodyMaryblend,servewheatbeerwithgrilledslicesoforangeorlemoninstead.

SMOKEDTEQUILAMARGARITAMakes1cocktail

Smokingthetequilagivestheliquoramescal-likeflavorthatIlove.Ialso roast the lemons and limes before juicing them. Hold theorangepeeloveraflameforabout5secondsbeforeaddingittothedrink. Fortherim,tryeitherSmokedChardonnaySaltorSmokedSeaSalt(page211)toaddanotherhitofsmokeflavor.

SmokedChardonnaySalt(seeResources,page218),SmokedSeaSalt(page211),orcoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt

1limewedge½ouncejuicefromroastedlemon(seeheadnote)½ouncejuicefromroastedlime(seeheadnote)2ouncessmokedtequila(seeTheSmokingGun,below)¾ounceSimpleSyrup(page32)3-inchlengthoforangepeel,coloredpartonly,nowhitepith(seeheadnote)

Pourthesalt intoasaucerandrubthe limewedgearoundtheglassrim.Diptheglassriminthesalt.Carefullyaddicetotheglassandsetitaside.Pour the lemon juice, lime juice, smoked tequila, and simple syrup into a

cocktail shaker fullof ice.Shakeuntilcold.Pour thedrinkover the ice in thesaltedglass,takingcarenottosplashthesalt.Flametheorangepeeljustfor2to5 secondsbyholding thepeel eitherover thegas flameon your stoveoroveralivefire,thendroptheflamedpeelintothedrink.

THESMOKINGGUN

The handheld motorized cold-smoker is my favorite off-fire tool forinfusingfoodswithasmokyflavor.Thereareseveraltypesofsmokingguns;theoneIuseisbattery-operatedwithasmallrecessinthetoptoholdwoodchips.Youpacktherecesswithanykindofwoodchipyoulike: hickory ormesquite for very strong flavors, apple wood or anyfruitwoodforasubtlersmoke.Tosmoke,youattachthehosetothegun’snozzleandthenlightthe

wood chips in the top of the gunwith a lighter. Themotor pulls thesmokeintothehose,soyoucanaimastreamofsmokewhereveryoulike.Thistoolisfantasticwhenyou’remakingcocktails.Iuseittosmoke

tequilaandIevensmokewatertofreezeintosmokyicecubes.Whensmokingaliquid,youneedtocreateakindofsmokechamber.Youcanuseabelljarifyouhaveone;ifnot,useanyclearcontainer(soyoucanseethesmokeinside)andsealitwithplasticwrapoverthetop.Thesmokinggunmotorisn’tverystrong;ifyousubmergethehose

intheliquidyou’llgetverylittlesmokeoutofthehose.Here’sabetterway:pourtheliquidintoaglasscontainersuchasalargebakingdish.Ashallowcontainergivestheliquidmoreexposuretothesmoke.Placethe smoking gun hose into the container but don’t light the gun yet.Cover the container and the tip of the hosewith plasticwrap so thesmokewillfillupthespaceabovetheliquid.Fireupthegunandgetagoodamountofsmokeontopoftheliquid.Pulloutthehoseandsealuptheplasticwrapwiththesmokeinside.Lettheliquidsitandabsorbthesmokeflavorfor5to10minutes.Ifmakingicecubesfromthesmokedliquid,freezethemassoonas

you’vefinishedsmoking.SeeResourcesforwheretobuyasmokinggun.

HIGHWAYMAN’SMOJITOMakes1cocktail

Guarapodecanacanrefertoeitherfreshjuicefromsugarcaneorasyrupmadefromthejuice;eitherwayit’sverypopularinCubanandSouthAmerican cocktails. SeeResources, page 218, forwhere tofindguarapodecanainacan. AtrueMiami-stylemojitoissimplyrumpouredintoguarapo,preferablyfromaflask.(Maybeyouhaveto be twenty-one years old to truly appreciate that version.We’veupgradedthedrinkherewithfreshmintandtarragon.)Totastethetrueversionofthisdrink,madewithfreshguarapo,seekoutaCubangrocer,who could probably find guarapo for you; otherwise, go toChowhound.comandaskifanybodynearyouknowswheretobuyit.If you can’t locateguarapo, you can substitute anequal amountofsimplesyrup.

6sprigsfreshmint1stemfreshtarragon1ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuice1½ouncesrum,eitherlightordark1ounceguarapodecanaorSimpleSyrup(page32)

Inacocktailshakerorasturdybarglass,muddlethemintandtarragonwiththelimejuice.Whenyoucanreallysmelltheherbs,pourintherumandguarapo.Strainandpourthedrinkintoachilledmartiniglassorpourthecocktail,leavesandall,intoachilledtumbler.

MEYERLEMONVERBENAWATERMakes2quarts

Everyone appreciates ice-cold flavored water on a warm day. Byadding herbs and lemon slices to water, you’ve made it morerefreshingbutkeptthecaloriesandsugaroutofthemix.WemadethiswithlemonverbenabecauseIhadbushelsofitinmyyard.Mintand lemon water, cucumber water, orange water, and raspberrywaterareallwelcomeadditionstoaparty.

2wholeMeyerlemons,thinlyslicedwithpeel2cupsfreshlemonverbena2quartscoldwater

Combine the fruit, herbs, andwater in a large decanter and chill. Serve coldwithlotsofice.

ROASTEDSTRAWBERRYLEMONADEWITHHERBSYRUPS

Makesabout2½gallons

Ilovelemonadethat’snottoosweet.WhenImakelemonade,Idon’tadd sugar. Instead, I set out bottles of herb-infused simple syrupsandletpeoplesweetentheirown.Roastingthestrawberriesgetsridof their tartness and intensifies their flavor. You can roast thestrawberries the day before, and then refrigerate them.Purée andaddtothelemonadejustbeforeserving. Onahotday,lemonadeflowslikewateratmyhouse.Imakealotofit,settingouta3-gallonglassdecanterwithaspigotandstashingplentyofextralemonadeinthefridgebeforethepartystarts.

16lemons,cutinto¼-inchslices1cupfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice4quartscoldwater4quartsclubsodaRoastedStrawberries(page90),puréedBasilSimpleSyrup(following)BalsamicSimpleSyrup(following)MintAgave(following)

Put the lemon slices on the bottom of a large decanter. Pour on the lemonjuice, the coldwater, and the club soda. Add the strawberry purée, and stir.Chillwell.When you’re ready to start the party, set out all the flavored syrups, label

them,andletguestssweetentheirownlemonade.

BASILSIMPLESYRUPMakesabout2¼cups

Follow these directions with any leafy herb. My favorites includelemonverbena,mint,andtheleavesfromarosegeranium.

2cupswater2cupsgranulatedsugar12bigwholefreshbasilleaves,plus8smalltenderleavesforbasilconfetti

Pourthewaterandsugarintoamediumsaucepanandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Stir.Whenallthesugarisdissolved,takethepanofftheheatandtossinthe12bigbasilleaves.Eitherletthemixturecoolnaturallyorsetthepaninanicebath(waterandicecubes)ifyouneedittocoolfaster.Whenthesyruphascooled,removethe12basilleavesanddiscard.Cutthe

remaining8leavesintochiffonade(seeChef’sNote,page43).Thenturnyourcuttingboardandslice the ribbonscrosswise into tiny,neatsquares.Stir thisconfetti into the basil syrup. It will float to the top but just shake the bottlebeforepouringthesyrupintoyourlemonade.

BALSAMICSIMPLESYRUPMakesabout½cup

½cupwhitebalsamicvinegar6tablespoonsgranulatedsugar

Heat thebalsamic vinegar and sugar in a small saucepanovermedium-highheat.Bring to aboil and let cookuntil reducedbyhalf, 6 to8minutes. (Theprocessspeedsuptowardtheend,sodon’twalkawayfromit.)Takethepanofftheheatandletthemixturecool.Skimoffanyfoam.

MINTAGAVEMakesabout3cups

3cups(orone23.5-ouncebottle)agavesyrup

2bigfistfulsoffreshmint,stemsandleaves(about8leafystems)

Pourtheagaveintoamediumsaucepanandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Assoon as the syrup boils vigorously, take the pan off the heat. Toss in all themint,stir,andletthesyrupcool.

CHAPTERTEN

OIL,SALT,ANDSPICE:SEASONINGS,SAUCES,AND

DRESSINGSThe recipes in this chapter arebuildingblocks, basics that Iuse as the foundation in many of my meals. In addition tomethods,I’velistedafewwaysinwhichyoucanuseeachofthesego-torecipes.Any time you make a spice rub or seasoning, choosing

super-fresh spices is key. For where to find the best freshspices,seeResources,page218.

FennelSpiceRubToastedSpiceRubCocoaSpiceRubChef’s-StyleBalsamicReductionInvertedSugarSmokedOliveOilSmokedOilDressingSmokedSeaSaltCitrus-RosemarySaltRoastedGarlicPasteRoastedGarlicDressingRedWineVinaigretteHoney–AppleCiderVinegarDressingGrilledRedOnionDressingPassataGrilledTomatoBloodyMaryBlendTomatoVinegarGrilledTomatoSauceGrilledTomatoJuiceBasilOilBeefStockChickenBrothCrèmeFraîche

FENNELSPICERUBMakesabout1¼cups

It’sbeenabouttwodecadessinceIfirstmixedthisblend,andit’sstillmy favorite spice combination. I sprinkle this on everything fromgrilled goat cheese (see page 45) to roasted whole goat, roastedchicken, and many different vegetables. Try rubbing this on freshbutterfliedprawnsjustbeforegrilling.

1cupfennelseeds3tablespoonscorianderseeds2tablespoonswholewhitepeppercorns3tablespoonscoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt

Putthefennelseeds,corianderseeds,andpeppercornsinasmallheavyskilletovermediumheat.Tosstheseedssotheytoastevenly.Assoonasyoubeginto smell them, take themoff the heat.Don’t let themget darker than a lightbrown.Turnthespicesoutontoaplatetocool.(Ifyoutrytogrindthemwhilethey’rewarm,theywillgumupthebladesofyourblenderorspicemill.)Pourthecooledseedsintoablenderorspicemill.Blenduntilthespicesareaboutthesamesizeasthesalt,andthenaddthesalt.Blendtoapowder,removingtheblenderpitcherfromitsstandandshakingoccasionally.Store inanairtightcontainer inacool,darkplacefor4monthsorstore in

yourfreezerforupto1year.

TOASTEDSPICERUBMakesabout1cup

I lovethisblendonlamb,shrimp,andfish.Isprinkleitoverapotofbeans or rice while they’re cooking or on omelets and scrambledeggs.

¼cupfennelseeds1tablespooncorianderseeds1tablespoonwholeblackpeppercorns1½teaspoonsredpepperflakes

¼cuppureCaliforniachilipowder2tablespoonskoshersalt2tablespoonsgroundcinnamon

Putthefennelseeds,corianderseeds,andpeppercornsinasmallheavyskilletovermediumheat.Tosstheseedssotheytoastevenly.Assoonasthefennelseeds turn light brown, work quickly: Turn on the exhaust fan, add the redpepperflakes,andtoss,toss,toss.Afterthreetosses,turnthespicesoutontoaplatetocool.(Ifyoutrytogrindthemwhilethey’rewarm,theywillgumupthebladesofyourblenderorspicemill.)Pourthecooledseedsintoablenderorspicemill,andaddthechilipowder,salt,andcinnamon.Blenduntilthespicesare evenly ground, removing the blender pitcher from its stand and shakingoccasionally.Store inanairtightcontainer inacool,darkplacefor4monthsorstore in

yourfreezerforupto1year.

CHEF’SNOTE:Ifyouhaveaspicegrinderorcleancoffeemill(thatyouuseonlyforspices),youcangrind just the fennelseedsandcorianderseedswith thepeppercorns and red pepper flakes and then toss with the remainingingredients.

COCOASPICERUBMakesabout¾cup

Cocoapowdergivesthisspicerubadark,richflavorthatworkswellwith chicken and vegetables, but is especially good with pork orsprinkledoversweetpotatoesbeforeroasting. WhenImakethis,Iuse Scharffen Berger cocoa powder but any naturally processedcocoa powder works in this recipe. Avoid Dutch-processed cocoapowder,whichmaybedarkerincolorbutsometimeshasanalkalineaftertaste.

1tablespoonwholewhitepeppercorns1tablespoonwholecorianderseeds4½tablespoonsgroundcinnamon2teaspoonsgroundnutmeg1teaspoongroundcloves3½tablespoonsunsweetenedcocoapowder4tablespoonscoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt

Inadrymediumsaucepanovermediumheat,toastthewhitepeppercornsandcoriander seeds until they begin to pop.Remove the pan from the heat andtransfer the spices to a plate to cool. (If you try to grind themwhile they’rewarm,theywillgumupthebladesofyourspicemill.)Grindthespicestoafinepowder in a spicemill or coffee grinder that’s used only for spices.Mix theground pepper and coriander with the ground cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves,cocoapowder,andsalt.Store inanairtightcontainer inacool,darkplacefor4monthsorstore in

yourfreezerforupto1year.

CHEF’S-STYLEBALSAMICREDUCTIONMakesabout1½cups

I’vebeenreducingbalsamicvinegarfordecadesbutRobHohmann,Bottega’s chef de cuisine, taughtme this trick formaking a betterreduction.Whenyoureduceavinegar,youcansubtlyalteritsflavor,and not always in a good way. By adding an equal amount ofinvertedsugarbeforesimmering, the reductionkeeps the flavorofthe original liquid even when it’s cooked down by a goodpercentage.

1½cupsbalsamicvinegar1½cupsinvertedsugar(recipefollows)

In a large saucepan, bring the vinegar and inverted sugar to a boil overmedium-highheat.Decreasetheheattomediumandletthemixturesimmer,bubblingquietlybutnotataroilingboil,untilreducedbyhalf.

CHEF’SNOTE:Youcanreplace the invertedsugarwithcornsyrup,but thiswillmakethereductionslightlysweeterthanifyouuseinvertedsugar.

INVERTEDSUGAR

3cupssugar1½cupswater¼teaspooncitricacid(availableinhealthfoodstores),oruse2teaspoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

Inalargesaucepan,bringthesugar,water,andcitricacid(orlemonjuice)toaboilovermedium-highheat.Decreasetheheattokeepthemixturemedium-low; adjust the heat as needed to keep the liquid at a lively simmer until it’s

reducedbyhalf,about30minutes.

SMOKEDOLIVEOIL

THISISAGREATWAYTOADDGRILLINGFLAVORTOFOODSOFF-SEASON.

Makes6cups

Iwas filmingNext IronChefAll-Stars inNewYork,outatMontaukPoint on the tip of Long Island, and didn’t have enough time toperfectlysmoketheflukeonthemenu.Ipoachedthefishinsteadinsmokedoliveoil. This is a greatway to addgrilling flavor to foodsoff-season. You’llneed tworoastingpans for this recipe thatcanstackoneontheother—thebottomonewillbehalf-fullofwater,thetoppanwillhold theoliveoil. (Youwantagoodamountofsurfaceareasomoreoftheoilisexposedtothesmoke.)You’llrestthepanholding the olive oil on top of the pan holding water.Wood chipsadded to a hot firewill provide the smoke and the flavor. Use avegetablepeeler togetgoodwide swathsoforangepeel to flavortheoil.

6cupsextra-virginoliveoil1tablespoonjuniperberriesRindfrom1largeorange(peelonly,nowhitepith;seeheadnote)2bayleaves1tablespooncoarselychoppedfreshthyme

Puttwobighandfulsofwoodchipsinabowlorbucketofwaterandletthemsoakforabout30minuteswhileyoustartthefire.Ignitecharcoalinagrillwithacover.(Youcouldputwoodchipsinametal

containerinyourgasgrill;manygrillmanufacturerssellwoodchipholdersbutIthinkawoodorcharcoal fireoffersmoresmoke flavor thandoing itonyour

gasgrill.)Whenthecoalsareready,spreadthemonthegrill.Fillaroastingpanhalf fullwithwater.Pourtheoliveoil intoasecondroastingpan,andaddthejuniperberries,orangepeel,bay leaves,and thyme.Withyourhand, take thesoakedwoodchipsoutof thewaterandflickthemtoshakeoffsomeexcessliquid.Addthewoodchipstothecoals.Close thegrill and let it fillwith smoke.Open thegrill, andput thewater-

filledpanonthegrillrack.Restthepanfilledwithoilandaromaticsontopofthe water-filled pan. Close the lid and let it smoke for 5 to 7minutes for asubtlesmokeessenceor10to15minutesforasmokieroil.(Ifitbecomestoosmokyforyourtaste,simplydilutewithalittlemoreoliveoil.)Takebothpansoffthecoalsandsetthemasidetocool.Whencool,pourtheoliveoilthroughapapercoffeefilterorfine-meshsieve

intoaglass jar.Cover tightly,andstore inacool,dryplace.Thesmokyflavorwilldissipateovertimebutitwillholdtheflavorforagoodmonth.

SMOKEDOILDRESSINGMakesabout1½cups

The subtle smoke flavor is a way to add summer flavor when theseasonhaspassed.YoucanalsousethisrecipeforanyoliveoilleftoverfromGrilledVegetableAntipastiSott’Olio(page49).

2teaspoonscoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2tablespoonsfreshroastedlemonjuice(seepage117)orroastedorangejuice

1tablespoonChampagnevinegar½cupSmokedOliveOil(preceding)

Whisk together the salt, pepper, lemon or orange juice, and vinegar. Whilewhisking,slowlypourinthesmokedoil.Thiswillkeepinyourrefrigeratorfor2weeks.

SMOKEDSEASALTMakes1cup

You can find smoked sea salt in gourmet stores (see Resources,page218),butit’seasytomake.I’mgoingtogiveyoutwomethods:smoking itwithasmokinggunor smoking itovercharcoal inyourgrill.

1cupcoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt

WITH A SMOKING GUN: If you have a smoking gun (see page 201), follow themanufacturer’s directions. Spread out the salt in a shallow baking dish andcover thedishwithplasticwrap, leavingasmallopening for thenozzle.Slidethe end of the nozzle beneath the plastic wrap and above the salt; light thewoodinthegun’schamber.You’llseesmokefillupthespacebetweenthesaltand the plastic wrap. When there’s a good amount of smoke, pull out thenozzle and seal up the plastic. Let the salt sit in the smoke for at least 15minutes.Ifyouwantamoreintensesmokeflavor,stirthesaltandrepeatthesmoking

oncemore.

WITH A CHARCOAL GRILL: To smoke salt in your grill, start a charcoal fire. (Youcould put wood chips in a metal container in your gas grill; many grillmanufacturerssellwoodchipholdersbutIthinkawoodorcharcoalfireoffersmoresmokeflavorthandoingitonyourgasgrill.)Whenthefireishotandallthecoalsarewell ignited,spreadout thesalt inabakingdish,andaddsomegooddampwood chips to the fire. I like fruitwood chips but any hardwoodchipswilldo.Closethelidtothegrillandletthesaltabsorbthesmokeflavorfor5to10minutes.Storehouse-smokedsalt inanairtightcontainerinyourpantryforabout2

monthsorinyourfreezerfor6months.

CHEF’SNOTE:Isoakwoodchipsincoolwaterfor30minutes.Somefolksliketoput the chips in a strainer to drain. I don’t. I take a fistful of chips out of thesoakingwater, give them a few good shakes to throw off excesswater, and

thenputthemrightonthefire.

CITRUS-ROSEMARYSALTMakesabout1cup

Thisisperfectwiththequailandgrapesaladonpage85.Ialsousethisforastraight-uproastedchickenwhenIneedaneasyTuesdaynightdinner.

1cupcoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt2teaspoonsfreshlygratedlemonzest2teaspoonsfreshlygratedorangezest1teaspoonmincedfreshrosemary

Inabowl,blendthesaltwiththezestsandtherosemary.Storedinanairtightcontainer, this will keep for 4 months in your pantry or for 1 year in yourfreezer.

ROASTEDGARLICPASTEMakes¾cup

Thisflavorfulpastefreezeswell. Ialwayshavesomeonhandinmyfreezer for piadines, pizzas, garlic bread, or the dressing recipefollowing.

4headsroastedgarlic(Ember-RoastedGarlic,page187)⅓cupextra-virginoliveoil3sprigsthyme,choppedCoarseseasalt,preferablygraysaltFreshlygroundblackpepper

Squeeze the garlic paste from each clove of the roasted heads into a bowl.Whiskintheoliveoilandthyme.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Storecoveredinthefridgefor1weekorfreezeforupto2months.

ROASTEDGARLICDRESSINGMakesabout2¼cups

Ifyouloveroastedgarlic,thismaybecomeyourgo-todressing.

1cupRoastedGarlicPaste(preceding)1½teaspoonscoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper¼cupChampagnevinegar½cupwater1tablespoonDijonmustard2tablespoonsmincedfreshtarragon½teaspoonmincedshallots1cupextra-virginoliveoil

Stirtogetherthegarlicpaste,salt,pepper,vinegar,the½cupwater,mustard,tarragon,andshallots.Whilewhiskingcontinuously,slowlydrizzle in theoliveoil.Storecoveredinyourrefrigeratorforupto3days.

REDWINEVINAIGRETTEMakes¾cup

This vinaigrette will only be as good as your red wine vinegar.Choose the best-tasting vinegar you can find. You can add ateaspoonofchoppedfreshherbssuchasthyme,tarragon,orchivestothisvinaigretteifyoulike.

¼cuptop-qualityredwinevinegar½cuptop-qualityextra-virginoliveoil1teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

Whisk together the vinegar and oil. Add the salt and pepper, taste, and addmoreseasoningorfreshherbsifyoulike.

HONEY–APPLECIDERVINEGARDRESSINGMakes1¼cups

TheItaliantermagrodolce—meaningsourandsweet—describesthisflavorful blend. Try it with different varieties of honey and cidervinegar,orevensubstitutehardappleciderandthenreduceitjustabit.

2tablespoonshoney¼cuptop-qualityapplecidervinegar1cuplightor“pure”oliveoilCoarseseasalt,preferablygraysaltFreshlygroundblackpepper

Warmthehoneyandvinegar.Whisk in theoliveoil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Storecoveredintherefrigeratorfor1week.

GRILLEDREDONIONDRESSINGMakesabout½cup

Youcangrilltheonionsonapreheatedgrillrackorgriddlethemonahotplancha.Eitherway,theygivethisdressingalotofflavor.

2mediumredonions,cutinto½-inch-thickslices3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil1teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper,plusapinch¼cupfreshlysqueezedorangejuice1tablespoonChampagnevinegar

Turnagasgrilltohighorignitecharcoal.Whenthegrillishot,cleanyourgrillrack. Decrease the temperature to medium-high, and brush or wipe a littleoliveoilonthegrillrack.Ifusingaplancha,placeitonthegrillrackandheatforatleast10minutes.Drizzle theonionsliceswith2 tablespoonsof theoliveoil,½ teaspoonof

thesalt,andabout¼teaspoonpepper.When the grill is hot, use tongs to place the onions on the grill rack or a

preheatedplanchaandcooktheslicesuntiltheyshowdarkbrowngrillmarks,about8minutesperside.Set theonionsaside tocool.When theonionsarecool, dice them fine. Measure 1 cup of diced onions for the dressing; anyleftoverdicedonioncanbeaddedtoyoursaladifyoulike.Whisk together the 1 cup of diced onion, orange juice, vinegar, the

remaining1tablespoonoliveoil,andremaining½teaspoonofsaltandpinchofpepper.Thiswillkeepinthefridgefor1week.

PASSATA

In Italian, passata means “to pass,” in this case to pass tomatoesthrough a press or a sieve. I buy passata imported from Italywhenever I spot it. If I can’t find it, I make my own from cannedtomatoes.

One28-ouncecanofwholeorganicpeeledtomatoesalongwithallthejuice

Inablenderor foodprocessor,purée the tomatoes.Measurewhatyouneedandrefrigeratetherest.Passatawillkeepfor1weekinthefridge.

GRILLEDTOMATOBLOODYMARYBLENDMakes3½cups

Ipourthisblendintobeer(seepage200)anduseitasthestartofagreat Bloody Matador (page 198). A juice extractor such as aMagimixisthequickestwaytogofromwholeveggiestoacocktailblend.

4poundsripetomatoesCoarseseasalt,preferablygraysaltFreshlygroundblackpepper1juicylemon,halved2cupscelerypiecescutin1-inchlengths(preferablyfrominnerstalks)2teaspoonsWorcestershiresauce4dasheshot-peppersauce(suchasCrystalorTabasco),moreifneeded

Turnagasgrilltohighorignitecharcoal.Whenthegrillishot,forbothgasandcharcoalgrills,cleanyourgrillrack.Foragasgrill,decreasethetemperaturetomedium-high,andbrushorwipealittleoliveoilonthegrillrack.CoreeachtomatoandcutanXinitsbase.Seasonverylightlywithsaltand

pepper.Place the tomatoes on the hot grill, X-side up and away fromdirectheat. Cover the grill and cook for 8 to 10 minutes. With tongs, turn thetomatoesX-sidedownandcookforanother3to5minutes.Duringthelastfewminutes of cooking, add the lemon to the grill, cut-side down. With tongs,transfer the tomatoes and roasted lemon off the heat and into a large heat-proofbowl.Letthemcooltoroomtemperature.Takethe lemonsoutof thebowl,andaddtheceleryandasprinkleofsalt

and pepper. Toss the tomatoes and celery and then put the contents of thebowlwithallthejuicesthroughajuicer,andsqueezethelemonjuicefromthelemonhalvesintothejuiceraswell.Stir theWorcestershire sauce and hot-pepper sauce into the juice blend.

Refrigerateforat least30minutesoruntilreadytoserve.Stirbeforeserving,

taste,andaddmoresalt,pepper,hot-peppersauce,orlemonjuiceifneeded.

TOMATOVINEGARMakesabout1¼cups

I liketheconceptoftomato“squared,”withabrighttomatovinegarfinishingatomatosalad.

¾poundvine-ripenedtomatoes2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil½teaspoonmincedgarlic½teaspooncoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt⅛teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper¼cupChampagnevinegarorherbalvinegarflavoredwithbasil¼cupwater,ifneeded1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshbasil

Turnagasgrilltohighorignitecharcoal.Whenthegrillishot,forbothgasandcharcoalgrills,cleanyourgrillrack.Decreasethetemperaturetomedium-high(onagasgrillonly),andbrushorwipealittleoliveoilonthegrillrack.Toss thewhole tomatoeswith1 tablespoonof theoliveoil andgrill them

(following thestepsunderGrilledTomatoJuice,butdon’t juice them).Whenthe tomatoes are cool enough to handle, peel them, discard the peel andseeds,anddicethetomatoes,reservingallthejuicethatyoucan.Indoors on the stove, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a

saucepanovermedium-highheat.Whentheoilishot,addthegarlic.Sautéjustuntilthegarlicislightbrown,slightlylessthan1minute.Addthetomatoesandtomato juice, and bring to a boil. Decrease the heat tomedium and simmeruntilthesauceisthick,about3minutes.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Takethepanofftheheatandletthemixturecoolforatleast30minutes.Workinginbatchesifnecessary,puréethetomatomixtureinablenderuntil

smooth.AddtheChampagnevinegarandthinwithwaterifnecessary.Addthebasilandpurée.Youcanusethisrightawayorstoreitinabottleorjarwithanonmetalliclid.

Thiswillkeepfor1weekintherefrigerator.

GRILLEDTOMATOSAUCEMakesabout3½cups

Grillingthetomatoesandroastingtheredpeppergivesthissauceanunderlying flavor that I really like. I tend to double this recipe andfreezewhatIdon’tneed.I’malwaysgladtohavethissauceonhand.It’sbesttogrilltomatoesovercharcoalorawoodfirethat’sabout30minutespastitshottestpoint.Iliketouseaplanchabutyoucanuseacast-ironpanorgrillthetomatoesdirectlyonthegrillrack.

3poundsvine-ripenedtomatoes1largeredbellpepper4tablespoonsoliveoil2teaspoonscoarseseasalt,preferablygraysalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1cupmincedonion1tablespoonmincedgarlic1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshoregano2tablespoonsredwinevinegar2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshflat-leafparsley

Coreeach tomatoandcutanX in it’sbase. Inabowl, toss the tomatoesandbellpepperwith1to2tablespoonsoftheoliveoil;seasonwith1teaspoonofthesaltand¼teaspoonofthepepper.Placethetomatoesonthehotgrill,X-side up and away from direct heat, with the red pepper. Cover the grill andcook,turningthebellpeppertocharevenlyallover.Cookthetomatoesfor8to10minutes.Whenthebellpepper’sskinisblisteredandblackenedallthewayaround(about15minutes),putthepepper inabowlandcovertosteamandloosen the skin. Take the tomatoes off the heat and let cool to roomtemperature.Peel the grilled vegetables. Halve the tomatoes horizontally and squeeze

out the seeds into a sieve suspendedover a bowl to catch the juices. Finelychopthetomatoes.Returnthetomatopulpandanyjuicesfromthechoppingboardtothebowlholdingthetomatojuices.

Seedthebellpepperandsliceofftheribs;discardtheseedsandribs.Finelydicethebellpepper;setaside.Heattheremaining2tablespoonsoliveoilinacast-ironskillet(ifyou’recookingatthegrill)orinalargesautépan(ifyou’reworkingatyourstove)overmediumheatuntilhot.Addtheonion,seasonwith½ teaspoon of the salt, and sauté until softened, about 2 minutes. Add thegarlicandoreganoandstir.Addthetomatoesandtheirjuiceandbringtoaboilover high heat. Decrease the heat to medium and simmer until thickened,about10minutes.Addthebellpepperandsimmerforanotherminute.Addthevinegar.Seasontotastewiththeremaining½teaspoonsaltand¼teaspoonpepperandfinishwithparsley.Keepwarmuntilreadytoserveorletcool,cover,andrefrigerate.Storethis

inanairtightcontainerinyourfridgefor4to5daysorinyourfreezerforupto2months.

GRILLEDTOMATOJUICEMakesabout3cups

A juice extractor such as a Magimix makes quick work of juicingfreshtomatoesthatyou’vegrilled.YoucanalsouseajuicertomakeakillerBloodyMaryblend.

4poundsripetomatoesCoarseseasalt,preferablygraysaltFreshlygroundblackpepper

Turnagasgrilltohighorignitecharcoal.Forbothgasandcharcoalgrills,cleanyourgrillrack.Decreasethetemperaturetomedium-high,andbrushorwipealittle olive oil on the grill rack. Core each tomato and cut an X in its base.Seasonverylightlywithsaltandpepper.Placethetomatoesonthehotgrill,X-sideupandawayfromdirectheat.Coverthegrillandcookfor8to10minutes.With tongs, turn the tomatoes X-side down and cook for another 3 to 5minutes.Takethetomatoesofftheheatandputintoalargeheat-proofbowl.Letthetomatoescooltoroomtemperature.Pass thecontentsof thebowl—the tomatoesandall their juice—througha

juicer.Refrigerateuntilreadytouse,andstirbeforeserving.

BASILOILMakesabout1⅓cups

Usethesestepswithparsley,cilantro,tarragon—anyfreshherbthat’sabundantandat itspeak. I firstmade thisoil frombasil in the ’90swhena farmerbackedup to the restaurantwitha truckbed fullofbasil.Weweremakingsomuchpestothatitwasinevitablewewouldoverlook a batch and leave it out overnight. Disgusted with thewaste, I decided to try to salvage something from the basil leavesandthisoilwasborn. Thisisacondimentoil,somethingtodrizzleonatthelastsecond;don’ttrytocookwithanherboilbecauseheatwilldestroyallthosegarden-freshflavors.

4cupsfirmlypackedfreshbasilleaves2cupsoliveoil

In a blender, combine the basil and olive oil, processing until themixture iscompletelysmooth.Pour themixture intoasaucepansetovermediumheat.Whentheoilreachesasimmer,letitcookforanother45seconds.Removeitfromtheheatandthenpouritthroughafine-meshsieveintoabowl.Tapthestrainer lightly to coax the oil through but don’t press on the solids with aspoon.Lettheoilsettleasitcoolsandladleoffthetopintoaflat-bottomedpaper

coffeefilterwhiletheoilisstillwarm.Theeasiestwaytodothisisbylayeringcoffee filters three deep in a large strainer,with the strainer placed securelyoveraheat-proofcontainer.Warmoilwillpassthroughthepapermorequickly.Whenmostof theoilhasgonethrough,youcanpickupthefilters ifyou likeanduseyourfingerstosqueezeouttheremainingoil,butbecarefulnottotearthefilterpaper.Let the filtered oil settle for a few hours and then pour it into a clean

container, leavinganysedimentorcloudyliquidbehind.Keptinanairtightjarsetwithinacool,darkspot,thisoilwillholditsbrightflavorforatleast1month.

BEEFSTOCKMakes4quarts

Beef stock gives the BloodyMatador on page 198 some power. Ialsoaddthistobeansoupsandstews.Thisrecipeissimplerthanthebeefstock Imake inmyrestaurantbut it stillpacksa flavorpunch.This is a stock,not abroth,because it’smade frombones,whileabrothismeat-based—aruleI’vefollowedsincemystudentchefdays.

5poundsbeefbones1poundstewmeat,cutintocubes2cupsdryredwineOne12-ouncecanwholetomatoes,withjuicesfromthecan1largeyellowonion,quartered2largecarrots,cutintothirds2celerystalks,cutintothirds8sprigsflat-leafparsley2bayleaves1tablespoonwholeblackpeppercorns

Preheattheovento400°F.Putthebeefbonesinaroastingpanandroastuntiltheyarebrowned,about40minutes.When thebonesare roasted,put them ina largestockpotwith thecubed

stewmeat,redwine,tomatoes,onion,carrots,celery,parsley,bayleaves,andpeppercorns.Bringthemixturetoaboiloverhighheat,thendecreasetheheattolowandkeepataslowsimmer.Skimthetopevery20minutesorsowithawire-mesh skimmer. Simmer for about 3 hours. Youwant the bones alwayssubmerged:addwaterifthestockdropsbelowthebones.Strainthestockthroughacolanderandthenstrainagainthroughachinois

orfine-meshsieveanddiscardall thebonesandsolids.Let the liquidcool toroomtemperature,storeinairtightcontainers,andrefrigerateforupto3daysorfreezeforupto3months.Ifyou’dliketoreducethestockby50percenttosaveroominyourfreezer,youcan.Justrehydratewithwaterwhenyouuseit.

CHICKENBROTHMakes5quarts

Thischickenbrothisverymeaty,soitcanbeusedanywhereyou’duse stock. I use the entire bird: the wings and feet contributegelatinforbetterbody,theneckandthedrumsticksbothcontributetothebroth’smeatyflavor.Youwanteverybitofflavorthatyoucancoax into the liquid. Don’tpourhotwater fromyour tapover thechicken.Warmwaterthat’sbeensittinginyourhot-waterheatercanaddamineralaftertastetoyourstock.Plusclassicallytrainedcooksbelieve that you get a clearer broth with cold water because itdoesn’t seal in theprotein. Beautiful, fresh, crisp vegetables addsignificant flavor, especially when they’re cut on the bias becausethisexposesmorecutsurfacetothewater. Skimmingthesurfaceclarifies the liquid. You’re taking out the imperfections and leavingpure,clearflavors.Addthechicken,vegetables,andwatertothepotfirst.Addtheherbsandspicesafter thefirst fewskimmingssoyoudon’tskimthemoffwiththefoam.Thiscallsforaverylargepot—atleast12quarts.Ifyoudon’thaveanextra-largestockpot,halvetherecipe.

2poundschickennecks4poundschickenwings(cuteachwinginto3sections)2poundschickendrumsticks4cupscoarselychoppedyellowonions,about4largeonions2cupschoppedcelery(about4ribs),cutonthediagonalinto1-inchpieces

2cupschoppedcarrots(about3largecarrots),cutonthediagonalinto1-inchpieces

2gallonscoldwater1packedcupfreshflat-leafparsley,coarselychopped¼cupfreshthyme,leavesandstems2tablespoonswholeblackpeppercorns

12lightlycrushedjuniperberries6bayleaves

Addthechickenparts,all thevegetables,and thewater toa largeheavypot.Overhighheat,bringtheliquidtoaboil,andthenreducetheheattomedium-lowandbringtheliquidtoasimmer.Watchtheheat;alowsimmergivesyoubetterflavorthanboilingyourstock.Skimoffthefoamthatrisestothetopwithameshskimmer.Afterabout20

minutesof cookingandskimming, add theparsley, thyme,peppercorns, andjuniper berries. Add the bay leaves, crumbling them over the pot. After 4½hoursofcooking,removethebrothfromtheheat.Withtongs,gentlyremovethepiecesofchickenfromthepottoavoidcloudingtheliquid.(Setthechickenasidetocool.Later,pullthechickenofftheboneandreserveitforanotherusesuch as chicken salad, chicken ravioli, or chicken soup.) Strain the broththroughacolanderandthenstrainagainthroughachinoisorfine-meshsieve.Allowthebrothtocoolcompletelyandthenstoreinairtightcontainersand

refrigerate or freeze for up to 3months. If freezer space is tight, reduce thebrothby50percent tomakeaconcentrateandthenrehydratewithwaterasneeded.

CHEF’S NOTE: I don’t add salt tomy broths and stocks because if I reduce asaltedliquidsignificantly,itbecomestoosalty.

CRÈMEFRAÎCHEMakes1¾cups

Make crème fraîche by combining cream and buttermilk. Liveculturesinthebuttermilkreactwiththecream,creatinga light, thinversionofsourcreamthat’sdeliciousandheat-stable.

1⅔cupsheavycream1tablespoonbuttermilk

Whisk together the heavy cream and buttermilk and pour into a large cleanglassjarorbowl.Coveritwithtwolayersofcheesecloth,securewitharubberband,andjustletitdoitsthingonyourcountertopatroomtemperatureforupto24hours.After that,seal the jarwithplasticwrapandrefrigerate ifyoudon’tplan to

use the crème fraîche right away. It will keep for up to 1 week in therefrigerator.

RESOURCES

FOOD

AnsonMillswww.ansonmills.comFine-groundpolenta

Bob’sRedMillwww.bobsredmill.comChickpeaflourandmasaharinaCharbaywww.charbay.comMeyer Lemon Vodka and other infused spirits Chiarello Family Vineyardswww.chiarellovineyards.comWine

CookingEnthusiastwww.cookingenthusiast.comButcher’ssalt

CubanFoodMarketwww.cubanfoodmarket.comGuarapodecana(sugarcanejuice)DeanandDelucawww.deandeluca.comTomatovinegar

FabbriNorthAmericawww.fabbrinorthamerica.comWildcherriesinamarenasyrupGioiaCheeseCompanywww.gioiacheeseinc.comBurratacheese

Giusto’sVita-Grainwww.giustos.comOrganicflourandfine-groundpolentaHeritageFoodswww.heritagefoodsusa.comHumanelyraisedgoat,lamb,andpigHogIslandOysterswww.hogislandoysters.comOysters

Katz&Companywww.katzandco.comArtisanoils,vinegars,andhoneyKingArthurFlourwww.kingarthurflour.comAscorbicacidandsheetgelatinMannaFoodswww.mannafoodsinc.comAvarietyofmeats

NapaStylewww.napastyle.comCalabrianchilepaste,oliveoils,rubs,salts,spices,andvinegarsNutswww.nuts.comChickpeaflour

OspreySeafood(415)291-0156Seafood

Penzeyswww.penzeys.comSpices

PreferredMeatswww.preferredmeats.comAvarietyofmeats

RanchoGordowww.ranchogordo.comHeirloombeans(varietiesvarybyseason)TheSpanishTable

www.spanishtable.comPimentóndelaVera(smokedSpanishpaprika)Williams-Sonomawww.williams-sonoma.comSmokedoliveoil

EQUIPMENT,TOOLS,ANDKITCHENWARE

AnchorHockingwww.anchorhocking.comGlassware

BBQGuyswww.bbqguys.comHibachisandtabletopcharcoalgrillChurrascoshop.comwww.churrascoshop.comLancesforsteak

ConairCorp/Cuisinartwww.cuisinart.comElectricknifeandfoodprocessorDuralexwww.duralexusa.comTemperedglassware

EmileHenrywww.emilehenryusa.comPizzastoneandcookware

FireSensewww.firesense.comGrills,firepits,andurbangrillsFoxRunBrandswww.foxrunbrands.comGrillingaccessoriesandthermometersGrillProwww.grillpro.comGrillingaccessories

JohnBooswww.johnboos.com

American-made cutting boards, cutting block oil La Bella Terra CustomWroughtIronwww.ironworksnapavalley.comCustomfirepitgrates

LaCajaChinawww.lacajachina.comHotbox

Lazzariwww.lazzari.comLumpcharcoal

LodgeCast-IronProductswww.lodgemfg.comCast-iron cookware, plancha, and the Lodge Logic Sportsman’s Grill NapaCookingSteelwww.napagrilling.comIroncrossandmetalstandsforroastinglambNapaStylewww.napastyle.comCuttingboards, firepits, grills, grill andhearth tools, hearthside lever roaster,hotbox,pizzastone,plancha,andTuscangrillPolderHousewareswww.polder.comThermometers,scales,andtimersRootCandleswww.rootcandles.comCandles

Röslewww.rosleusa.comGrillsandtools

Spitjackwww.spitjack.comRotisserieequipment

TuttoMiowww.tuttomio.bizDishware

TwistaCakewww.TwistaCake.comWoodencakeformforrotisserieWeber-StephenProductswww.weber.comGrillsandgrillaccessoriesWilliams-Sonomawww.williams-sonoma.comCataplana,grillbaskets,plancha,andsmokinggunWingsinThingswww.wingsinthings.comRotisseriecage

INDEX

Theindexentriesbelowareastheyappearedintheprintversionofthebookandare includedhere for your reference.Pleaseuse the search functiononyoureReadertosearchfortermsofinterest.

AAnchoviesApricotsApricotHandPiesRoastedApricotBelliniRoastedApricotPurée

AshbucketsAsparagusPestoAvocado-MangoGuacamole,Grilled

BBabaGhanoushwithToastedPineNutTahiniandSoccaBacon,Brown-BaggedEggsandBadovinus,WayneandNickBalsamicvinegarBalsamicGlazeBalsamicHoneyButterBalsamicSimpleSyrupChef’s-StyleBalsamicReduction

Bars,Rosemary-LemonBasilAsparagusPestoBasilOilBasilSimpleSyrup

Beansdried

GrilledBeefChiliBeefBeefRibswithCoffeeBBQSauceBeefStockBlueCheese–StuffedBeefBurgerswithZin-OnionMarmaladeCostolettadiBovaro(ItalianCowboySteaks)withSalsaVerdeGrilledBeefChiliGrilledPastawithGrilledMeatballsThree-PoundBeefBurgerforSixonCountryBread

BeerGrilledBeefChiliRedBeer

Beets,Foil-WrappedEmber-Roasted,withGoatCheeseBellini,RoastedApricotBerries.SeealsoStrawberriesGrilledLemon-SaffronPoundCakewithLavenderandFreshBerries

BloodyMaryBlend,GrilledTomatoBloodyMatadorBocceCourtMustardBread.SeealsoBurgersBruschettawithCoal-RoastedGarlicandGrilledTomatoesbuyingcrumbsLemonLeaf–WrappedGoatCheesewithBalsamicReductionandGrilledOliveBread

Nonna’sRoastedGarlicBreadPainPerdu(FrenchToast)PolentaBreadwithBalsamicHoneyButterRosemaryParmesanFlatbreadwithBurrataandTornFigs

Broths.SeealsoStocksaddingsalttoChickenBrothstocksvs.

BruschettawithCoal-RoastedGarlicandGrilledTomatoesBrusselsSproutswithLemonsinaRotisserieCageBurgersBigBurgerBashPartyBlueCheese–StuffedBeefBurgerswithZin-OnionMarmalade

grillmarksonLambBurgerswithEmber-RoastedOnionPuréeandGrilledPeach-NectarineMostarda

meatforMontereyJack–StuffedTurkeyBurgerswithGrilledAvocado-MangoGuacamole

shapingThree-PoundBeefBurgerforSixonCountryBread

ButterBalsamicHoneyButterRoastedRedPepperButter

CCabbageSimpleLime-CilantroSlaw

CaesarPiadineCakesGrilledLemon-SaffronPoundCakewithLavenderandFreshBerriesStrawberryPazzoCakewithHerbedCrèmeFraîcheTortaStrizzarewithMaple-PecanGraySaltIceCream

CalamariFideauwithVermicelli,GrilledShrimp,Chicken,andCalamariGrilledCeviche-MarinatedCalamariandShrimpwithCanchaPopcorn

Calzones,DarkChocolate–CherryCanchaPopcornCapersCaponata,CarrotCarrotsGrilledAhiTunawithCarrotCaponataand“Broken”CarrotVinaigretteGrilledVegetableAntipastiSott’Olio

CataplanaCauliflower“Steaks”withParsleyButterSauceChapas.SeePlanchasCharcoalCheeseApricotHandPiesBlueCheese–StuffedBeefBurgerswithZin-OnionMarmalade

Foil-WrappedEmber-RoastedBeetswithGoatCheeseGeorgiaPiadineGreekPiadinewithKalamataTapenade,GrilledPeppers,andFetaHeirloomTomatoeswithWhippedBurrata,BasilOil,SmokedSeaSalt,andBalsamicReduction

LemonLeaf–WrappedGoatCheesewithBalsamicReductionandGrilledOliveBread

MelonSaladwithRicottaSalataandTornMintMontereyJack–StuffedTurkeyBurgerswithGrilledAvocado-MangoGuacamole

Parmigiano-ReggianoPizzawithAsparagusPesto,Cambozola,andInsalatinaPizzawithShallots,WildMushrooms,SmokedOliveOil,andFontinaRoastedGarlicPizzawithGrilledTomatoVinaigretteandArugulaRosemaryParmesanFlatbreadwithBurrataandTornFigsSalt-BakedPotatoeswithMascarponeandProsciuttoBitsSkeweredMortadellaandProvoloneSmashingPumpkinswithMintPestoandGoatCheeseSmokedOliveOil–ManchegoPotatoChipsThree-PoundBeefBurgerforSixonCountryBread

CherriesDarkChocolate–CherryCalzonesGrilledBingCherry–WhiteBalsamicSauceGrilledPeach-NectarineMostarda

ChickenChickenBrothChickensforTwentyClamsinaCataplanawithChicken-AppleSausagesandCrispySageFideauwithVermicelli,GrilledShrimp,Chicken,andCalamariGrilledChickenStewandDumplingsHeartlandPiadineLemon-GarlicChickenwithTapenade,CookedunderaBrick

ChiffonadeChilesChile-FennelTzatzikipaste,Calabrian

Chili,GrilledBeef

Chimney,charcoalstarterChocolatebuyingchoppingCocoaSpiceRubDarkChocolate–CherryCalzonesGanacheMaltedHotChocolatewithFire-ToastedMarshmallowsmeasuringS’MoreswithEspressoMarshmallows

CilantroSalsaVerdeSimpleLime-CilantroSlaw

Citrus-RosemarySaltClamsinaCataplanawithChicken-AppleSausagesandCrispySageClinicOléCocoaSpiceRubCoffeeCoffeeBBQSauceEspressoMarshmallows

CondimentsBocceCourtMustardGriddledOnionsGrilledPeach-NectarineMostardaPicklesallaPrestoSmokedHomemadeTomatoKetchup

CornCanchaPopcornCornontheCobRoastedintheHuskwithRedPepperButter

CostolettadiBovaro(ItalianCowboySteaks)withSalsaVerdeCrabscatchingGrilledCrabswithFreshHerbs

CrèmeFraîcheHerbedCrèmeFraîche

CucumbersChile-FennelTzatziki

CucumberSaladGreekPiadinewithKalamataTapenade,GrilledPeppers,andFetaPicklesallaPresto

Cuttingboards

DDessertsApricotHandPiesDarkChocolate–CherryCalzonesGrilledLemon-SaffronPoundCakewithLavenderandFreshBerriesRoastedLemonGranitaRoastedStrawberrieswithPannaCottaRosemary-LemonBarsS’MoreswithEspressoMarshmallowsStrawberryPazzoCakewithHerbedCrèmeFraîcheTortaStrizzarewithMaple-PecanGraySaltIceCream

DipsBabaGhanoushwithToastedPineNutTahiniandSoccaGrilledAvocado-MangoGuacamole

DrinksBloodyMatadorDanDuckhorn’sFirst-NightCocktailGrilledTomatoJuiceGrilledZinfandelSangriaHighwayman’sMojitoMaltedHotChocolatewithFire-ToastedMarshmallowsMeyerLemonVerbenaWaterRedBeerRoastedApricotBelliniRoastedStrawberryLemonadewithHerbSyrupsSmokedTequilaMargarita

DrippingspansDuckhorn,DanDumplings,GrilledChickenStewand

EEggplant

BabaGhanoushwithToastedPineNutTahiniandSoccaEmber-RoastedEggplantPuréeGrilledAhiTunawithCarrotCaponataand“Broken”CarrotVinaigretteGrilledVegetableAntipastiSott’Olio

EggsandBacon,Brown-BaggedEmberroastingEquipmentandtools.SeealsoindividualitemsEspresso.SeeCoffee

FFennelChile-FennelTzatzikiGrilledVegetableAntipastiSott’OlioPicklesallaPresto

FennelseedsFennelSpiceRubToastedSpiceRub

FideauwithVermicelli,GrilledShrimp,Chicken,andCalamariFigsRosemaryParmesanFlatbreadwithBurrataandTornFigsShrimpWrappedinProsciutto

Fireforthefirepitforthefireplacefuelforforthegrillforthehotboxfortheironcrosspowerofcookingwithsafetyandstoriesaround

FireextinguishersFirepitsFireplace,cookinginFishFresh-CaughtTroutCookedinFoilGrilledAhiTunawithCarrotCaponataand“Broken”CarrotVinaigrette

TunaLoinTiedPrimeRib–StylewithSalsaVerdeFlatbreaddoughforRosemaryParmesanFlatbreadwithBurrataandTornFigs

Focaccia,doughforFogCityDinerForksFrankeny,FrankieFrenchToast(PainPerdu)

GGanacheGarlicBruschettawithCoal-RoastedGarlicandGrilledTomatoesEmber-RoastedGarlicLechón-StyleMarinadeLemon-GarlicChickenwithTapenade,CookedunderaBrickLemon-GarlicMarinadeMilaneseRubNonna’sRoastedGarlicBreadRoastedGarlicDressingRoastedGarlicPasteRoastedGarlicPizzawithGrilledTomatoVinaigretteandArugulaSalsaVerde

GeorgiaPiadineGlazesBalsamicGlazeLemonGlaze

Gloves,fireproofGoatBabyGoatonaSpitjack

GrahamcrackersS’MoreswithEspressoMarshmallows

Granita,RoastedLemonGrapesGrapeSaladGrilledZinfandelSangria

GreekPiadinewithKalamataTapenade,GrilledPeppers,andFetaGrillbasketsGrillbrushesGrillscleaningracksofhomemadeignitingcharcoalfortemperaturesoftypesofurbanventsof

Guacamole,GrilledAvocado-MangoGuarapodecana

HHearth,cookingatHeartlandPiadineHerbs.SeealsoindividualherbsHerbedCrèmeFraîcheHerbMarinade

HeritageFoodsHibachisHighwayman’sMojitoHoney–AppleCiderVinegarDressingHooksHotboxes

IIacoppi,LeoIceIceCream,Maple-PecanGraySaltIroncrossItalianCowboySteaks(CostolettadiBovaro)withSalsaVerde

KKalamataTapenadeKetchup,SmokedHomemadeTomato

Kettlegrills

LLambLambBurgerswithEmber-RoastedOnionPuréeandGrilledPeach-NectarineMostarda

LambRibswithSaltedMintSugarLegofLambonaStringWholeLambonanIronCrosswithMintPestoandChile-FennelTzatziki

Laukert,MichaelLechón-StyleMarinadeLemonsBrusselsSproutswithLemonsinaRotisserieCageCitrus-RosemarySaltGrilledLemon-SaffronPoundCakewithLavenderandFreshBerriesGrilledZinfandelSangriaLemon-GarlicChickenwithTapenade,CookedunderaBrickLemon-GarlicMarinadeLemonGlazeLemonLeaf–WrappedGoatCheesewithBalsamicReductionandGrilledOliveBread

MeyerLemonVerbenaWaterRoastedLemonGranitaRoastedStrawberryLemonadewithHerbSyrupsRosemary-LemonBarsSmokedTequilaMargarita

LevergrillsLimesHighwayman’sMojitoLechón-StyleMarinadeSimpleLime-CilantroSlawSmokedTequilaMargarita

MMallmann,FrancisMango-AvocadoGuacamole,GrilledMaple-PecanGraySaltIceCream

Margarita,SmokedTequilaMarinadesHerbMarinadeLechón-StyleMarinadeLemon-GarlicMarinade

Marmalade,Zin-OnionMarshmallowsEspressoMarshmallowsMaltedHotChocolatewithFire-ToastedMarshmallowsS’MoreswithEspressoMarshmallows

MatchesMealsonWheelsMeatballs,GrilledMelonsMelonPlatterMelonSaladwithRicottaSalataandTornMint

MenusBackyardCamp-outBreakfastPartyBigBurgerBashPartyDinnerattheLakePartyHarvestDinnerPartyPizzasontheGrillParty

MignonetteMilaneseRubMintHighwayman’sMojitoMintAgaveMintPestoSalsaVerdeSaltedMint-SugarRub

Mojito,Highwayman’sMortadellaandProvolone,SkeweredMostarda,GrilledPeach-NectarineMushroomsdriedGrilledMushroomswithSausages,Onions,andPeppersGrilledVegetableAntipastiSott’Olio

PizzawithShallots,WildMushrooms,SmokedOliveOil,andFontinaPotatoPolpette

MusselsandGypsyPeppers,3-LiterOOCanMustardBocceCourtMustardGrilledPeach-NectarineMostarda

NNectarine-PeachMostarda,GrilledNiman,BillNuts

OOliveoilBasilOilSmokedOilDressingSmokedOliveOil

OlivesKalamataTapenade

OnionsEmber-RoastedOnionPuréeGriddledOnionsGrilledMushroomswithSausages,Onions,andPeppersGrilledRedOnionDressingPuréedOnionVinaigrettePuréefromGrilledOnionsZin-OnionMarmalade

OrangesCitrus-RosemarySaltGrilledRedOnionDressingGrilledZinfandelSangriaLechón-StyleMarinade

OystersontheHalfShellwithGrilledProsciuttoandMignonette

PPainPerdu(FrenchToast)Pancetta

BabyBackPorkRibswithMilaneseRub(orPork2)BrusselsSproutswithLemonsinaRotisserieCageMilaneseRub

PannaCotta,RoastedStrawberrieswithPassataPastadriedFideauwithVermicelli,GrilledShrimp,Chicken,andCalamariGrilledPastawithGrilledMeatballs

Pawlcyn,CindyPeachesGeorgiaPiadineGrilledPeach-NectarineMostarda

PecanGraySaltIceCream,Maple-PeppersGreekPiadinewithKalamataTapenade,GrilledPeppers,andFetaGrilledCeviche-MarinatedCalamariandShrimpwithCanchaPopcornGrilledItalianPeppersStuffedwithSausageGrilledMushroomswithSausages,Onions,andPeppersHeartlandPiadineRoastedRedPepperButter3-LiterOOCanMusselsandGypsyPeppers

PestoAsparagusPestoMintPesto

PiadinesCaesarPiadinedoughforGeorgiaPiadineGreekPiadinewithKalamataTapenade,GrilledPeppers,andFetaHeartlandPiadinemaking

PicklesallaPrestoPies,ApricotHandPigPickin’Pizzasdoughfor

PizzasontheGrillPartyPizzawithAsparagusPesto,Cambozola,andInsalatinaPizzawithShallots,WildMushrooms,SmokedOliveOil,andFontinaRoastedGarlicPizzawithGrilledTomatoVinaigretteandArugulatipsformaking

PizzastonesPlanchasPlatters,heat-proofPolentaBreadwithBalsamicHoneyButterPolpette,PotatoPopcorn,CanchaPork.SeealsoBacon;Pancetta;Prosciutto;SausagesBabyBackPorkRibswithMilaneseRub(orPork2)PigPickin’PorkShoulderCookedLechón-Style

PotatoesGrilledAhiTunawithCarrotCaponataand“Broken”CarrotVinaigretteGrilledVegetableAntipastiSott’OlioPotatoPolpetteRoastedPotatoSaladwithRoastedGarlicDressingSalt-BakedPotatoeswithMascarponeandProsciuttoBitsSmokedOliveOil–ManchegoPotatoChipsSmokyPaprikaBBQPotatoChips

PoundCake,GrilledLemon-Saffron,withLavenderandFreshBerriesPropane-fueledgrillsProsciuttoOystersontheHalfShellwithGrilledProsciuttoandMignonettePotatoPolpetteSalt-BakedPotatoeswithMascarponeandProsciuttoBitsShrimpWrappedinProsciutto

Pumpkins,Smashing,withMintPestoandGoatCheese

QQuail,Skewered,withGrapeSaladandCitrus-RosemarySalt

RRibs

BabyBackPorkRibswithMilaneseRub(orPork2)BeefRibswithCoffeeBBQSauceLambRibswithSaltedMintSugar

RosemaryMilaneseRubRosemary-LemonBarsRosemaryParmesanFlatbreadwithBurrataandTornFigs

RotisseriesRubsCocoaSpiceRubFennelSpiceRubMilaneseRubSaltedMint-SugarRubToastedSpiceRub

RumHighwayman’sMojito

SSafety.SeealsoindividualrecipesandequipmentSaladdressings“Broken”CarrotVinaigretteGrilledRedOnionDressingGrilledTomatoVinaigretteHoney–AppleCiderVinegarDressingPuréedOnionVinaigretteRedWineVinaigretteRoastedGarlicDressingSmokedOilDressing

SaladsCucumberSaladGrapeSaladGrilledAvocado-MangoSalad(variation)MelonSaladwithRicottaSalataandTornMintRoastedPotatoSaladwithRoastedGarlicDressingSimpleLime-CilantroSlaw

SalsaVerdeSalt

Citrus-RosemarySaltSmokedSeaSalt

Sangria,GrilledZinfandelSansone,ClaudiaSaucesAsparagusPestoChile-FennelTzatzikiCoffeeBBQSauceGrilledBingCherry–WhiteBalsamicSauceGrilledTomatoSauceMignonetteMintPestoSalsaVerde

SausagesClamsinaCataplanawithChicken-AppleSausagesandCrispySageGrilledItalianPeppersStuffedwithSausageGrilledMushroomswithSausages,Onions,andPeppersSausagesCookedonLongForksSkeweredMortadellaandProvolone

Sesameseeds,toastingShrimpFideauwithVermicelli,GrilledShrimp,Chicken,andCalamariGrilledCeviche-MarinatedCalamariandShrimpwithCanchaPopcornShrimpWrappedinProsciutto

SimpleSyrupBalsamicSimpleSyrupBasilSimpleSyrup

Slaw,SimpleLime-CilantroSmokinggunsS’MoreswithEspressoMarshmallowsSoccaSpatulasSpinachHeartlandPiadine

SpitjacksStocks.SeealsoBrothsaddingsaltto

BeefStockbrothsvs.

StrawberriesRoastedStrawberrieswithPannaCottaRoastedStrawberryLemonadewithHerbSyrupsStrawberryPazzoCakewithHerbedCrèmeFraîche

Sugar,InvertedSyrupsBalsamicSimpleSyrupBasilSimpleSyrupMintAgaveSimpleSyrup

TTapenade,KalamataTequilaMargarita,SmokedThermometersTomatoesBloodyMatadorBruschettawithCoal-RoastedGarlicandGrilledTomatoescannedCucumberSaladFideauwithVermicelli,GrilledShrimp,Chicken,andCalamariGreekPiadinewithKalamataTapenade,GrilledPeppers,andFetaGrilledBeefChiliGrilledCeviche-MarinatedCalamariandShrimpwithCanchaPopcornGrilledItalianPeppersStuffedwithSausageGrilledPastawithGrilledMeatballsGrilledTomatoBloodyMaryBlendGrilledTomatoJuiceGrilledTomatoSauceGrilledTomatoVinaigretteHeartlandPiadineHeirloomTomatoeswithWhippedBurrata,BasilOil,SmokedSeaSalt,andBalsamicReduction

PassataRedBeer

SmokedHomemadeTomatoKetchup3-LiterOOCanMusselsandGypsyPeppersTomatoVinegar

TongsTortaStrizzarewithMaple-PecanGraySaltIceCreamTrout,Fresh-Caught,CookedinFoilTunaGrilledAhiTunawithCarrotCaponataand“Broken”CarrotVinaigretteTunaLoinTiedPrimeRib–StylewithSalsaVerde

TurkeyMontereyJack–StuffedTurkeyBurgerswithGrilledAvocado-MangoGuacamole

TurkeysonaSpitjackTuscangrillsTzatziki,Chile-Fennel

VVinaigrettes.SeeSaladdressingsVinegarTomatoVinegar

VodkaBloodyMatadorDanDuckhorn’sFirst-NightCocktail

WWineGrilledZinfandelSangriaRoastedApricotBelliniZin-OnionMarmalade

Wood

ZZin-OnionMarmaladeZucchiniGrilledVegetableAntipastiSott’Olio

TABLEOFEQUIVALENTSTheexactequivalentsinthefollowingtableshavebeenroundedforconvenience.

Liquid/DryMeasurements

U.S. METRIC

¼ teaspoon 1.25 milliliters½ teaspoon 2.5 milliliters1 teaspoon 5 milliliters1 tablespoon(3teaspoons) 15 milliliters1 fluidounce(2tablespoons) 30 milliliters¼ cup 60 milliliters⅓ cup 80 milliliters½ cup 120 milliliters1 cup 240 milliliters1 pint(2cups) 480 milliliters1 quart(4cups,32ounces) 960 milliliters1 gallon(4quarts) 3.84 liters 1 ounce(byweight) 28 grams1 pound 448 grams2.2 pounds 1 kilogram

Lengths

U.S. METRIC

⅛ inch 3 millimeters¼ inch 6 millimeters½ inch 12 millimeters1 inch 2.5 centimeters

OvenTemperature

FAHRENHEIT CELSIUS GAS

250 120 ½275 140 1300 150 2325 160 3350 180 4375 190 5400 200 6425 220 7450 230 8475 240 9500 260 10

Textcopyright©2013byMichaelChiarello.

Photographscopyright©2013byFrankieFrankeny.

Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthisbookmaybereproducedinanyformwithoutwrittenpermissionfromthepublisher.

LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationDataavailable.ISBN978-1-45212734-7

DesignbyMichaelMabry

Prop styling by Nissa Quanstrom Food styling by Michael Laukert ThephotographerwishestothankAnnSpivack,ClaudiaSansone,MichaelLaukert,GregO’Connell,andNissaQuanstromforalltheirhardworkonthisbook.Withyourhelp,theshootdayswerepulledtogetherandcarriedthroughwithsuchprofessionalism. Thank you Eileen Gordon Chiarello for letting us take overyour home; your graciousness made long photo shoots much easier. Manythanks toAnnGaedeandher teamatProCamera—whatphotographerdoestheirjobwellwithoutyou?KudosagaintoMichaelMabryandLilyanaBoneaswellastherestofhistalenteddesignteam.Yourbeautifulworkmakesitajoyto see our images in print. Chloé,mywife and best friend, tutto é possibile,grazie, grazie! And, most importantly, thank you Chef for trusting me onceagaintousemycamerainbringingyourgreatrecipesandwonderfulstoriestolife.

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