Milady’s Standard Cosmetologyuhs.twpunionschools.org/subsites/spiotrowski/documents/7-Cos/M... · Milady’s Standard Cosmetology ... MATTER – any substance that occupies space

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Milady’s Standard Cosmetology

BASICS OF CHEMISTRY AND

ELECTRICITY

7 Copyright © 2004

by Delmar Learning, a division of Thomson Learning,Inc.

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CHEMISTRY

I. Chemistry is the science that deals with the composition,

structures, and properties of matter and how matter changes

under different chemical conditions.

A. Organic chemistry is the study of substances that contain

carbon.

1. Usually associated with LIVING things (or products of)

2. Most salon products are organic

B. Inorganic chemistry is the branch of chemistry dealing with

compounds lacking carbon.

1. Metals, Minerals, Pure Water, Clean air = Does NOT burn

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MATTER

MATTER – any substance that occupies space

A. Elements

Composed of a single part or unit

Cannot be reduced to a simpler form

90 naturally occurring elements

B. Atoms

Smallest particle of an element that still retains

identity

C. Molecules

Elemental molecules- all the SAME element

Compound molecules – DIFFERENT elements

http://thescienceexperts.co

m/answers/who-

discovered-the-atom/

http://www.chemicalelements.com/

nyhallsci.org

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MATTER

D. States of Matter – depends on TEMPERATURE

Solids —have a definite shape, volume, and weight (e.g., ice).

Liquids —have volume and weight, but not a definite shape.

(e.g., water)

Gases —do not have a definite volume or shape (e.g., steam).

Only ONE compound can go through all 3 states of matter= H20

Figure 7-3

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PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL

PROPERTIES OF MATTER

A. Physical Properties

Color

Odor

Weight

Density

Specific gravity

Melting point

Boiling point

Hardness

B. Chemical Properties

Determined by a chemical

reaction and cause a

chemical change in the

identity of the substance

1. In other words, 1 thing

becomes another

2. Example:

Oxidation=oxygen

combines with something

else. Iron becomes Rust

with oxygen

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PROPERTIES OF MATTER C. Physical Change

Changes the form without forming a new substance

Ex: ice melting, temporary hair coloring

D. Chemical Change

causes a new substance to

be formed having

properties different from

the original.

Figure 7-5 chem4kids.com

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E. Pure Substances

Matter with fixed chemical

composition, definite

proportions, and distinct

properties

Elemental molecules

Chemical compounds

Figure 7-6

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F. Physical Mixtures

Ingredients that do not change their properties

Solution – stable mixture of two or more mixable

substances

Solute – substance being dissolved

Solvent – substance doing the dissolving (water)

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PROPERTIES OF MATTER 2

Miscible liquids (MIS-uh-bul) – can be mixed into another (food coloring)

Immiscible liquids – not capable of being mixed (oil & vinegar)

Suspension – when multiple liquids or substances are separated

Emulsion – unstable mixture of two or more immiscible substances with the aid of an emulsifier (stabilizer)

Surfactants (sur-FAK-tants) – help oil and water mix and has two poles, hydrophilic (water loving) and hydrophobic (water fearing) poles

oil-in-water emulsion (o/w)

water-in-oil emulsion (w/o)

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G. Other Physical Mixtures Ointments, pastes, pomades, styling waxes

Powders

H. Common Product Ingredients Alcohol

Alkanolamines (al-kan-oh-LAH-mynz)

Ammonia

Glycerin

Silicones

Volatile organic compounds (VOCs)

Formaldehyde (formalin)

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I. Potential Hydrogen (pH) and Ions

Ionization (eye-ahn-ih-ZAY-shun) –

separating substances into ions

Ion – Charged elements

Anion (AN-eye-on) = +

Cation (KAT-eye-un) = -

J. Water & pH

Hydrogen ion (H+) is acidic.

Hydroxide ion (OH) is alkaline (basic).

Water is neutral

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K. The pH Scale

A scale of 0 to 14

7—a neutral solution

Below 7—an acidic solution

Figure 7-11

Above 7—an alkaline (basic) solution

Pure water—pH of 7

Hair and skin—pH of 5

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L. Acids have a pH below 7.0.

taste sour.

turn litmus paper from blue to red.

contract and harden hair.

M. Alkalies (AL-kuh-lyz) are also called a base.

have a pH above 7.0.

taste bitter.

turn litmus paper from red to blue.

feel slippery and soapy on the skin.

soften and swell hair.



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Effects of pH (potential Hydrogen)

pH is a logarithmic scale (tenfold change)

pH of skin is 5

Hair swells in pure water (more alkaline than hair)

Acid causes hair to harden

Alkali materials feel “slippery” to the skin

Alkali = softens and swells hair

Neutralization = counteracting

Neutralize a alkaline with an acid

Neutralize an acid with alkaline

pH is ONLY possible because of the ionization of water

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N. Oxidation

1)Oxidation-reduction (redox) reactions

Exothermic (ek-soh-THUR-mik) – releases heat

A. haircolors & permanent wave neutralizes –adding peroxide does this

Combustion- burning of O2

O. Reduction Reactions

Oxidation – loss of electons

A. substances that release O2 (Hydrogen Peroxide) & transforms it to H2O

B. Works with Hair Color (reducing agent because it adds electrons) because it adds O2

C. Oxidizing Agent- REMOVES electrons

P. Redox (reduction and oxidation) reactions

A. transfer of electrons – oxidize loses/reduction adds

1. H added and removed as an example

2. permanent wavy is an example



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CHEMISTRY SUMMARY

The science that deals with the composition, structure, and properties of matter and how matter changes under different chemical conditions is called chemistry.

Matter is anything that occupies space, has physical and chemical properties, and exists as either a solid, liquid, or gas.

Matter can be changed either physically or chemically.

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ELECTRICITY

Electricity is a form of energy that, when in motion,

exhibits magnetic, chemical, or thermal effects.

Electricity is a flow of electrons, which are negatively

charged subatomic particles, electrons, outside the

atom.

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ELECTRICITY

A. Electric Current Flow of electricity along a conductor

B. Conductor Any substance, material, or medium that conducts

electricity

C. Insulator (Nonconductor) Rubber

Wood

Glass

Cement

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ELECTRICITY

D. Complete Circuit

The path of an electric current from the generating source

through conductors back to its original source

Figure 7-15

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TYPES OF ELECTRIC CURRENT

A. Direct Current (DC) Constant, even-flowing current, traveling in one direction

B. Alternating Current (AC) Rapid, interrupted current flowing in one direction then in the

opposite direction

C. Converters Used to change direct current into alternating current

D. Rectifiers Used to change alternating current into direct current

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E. Electrical

Measurements

Volt

Ampere (AM-peer)

Milliampere (mil-ee-AM-

peer)

Ohm

Watt

Kilowatt

Figure 7-16

Figure 7-17

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Electrical Measurements1

1. Volt – (V) - voltage – the unit that measures the

pressure/force pushing the flow of electrons through a

conductor) – the higher the voltage, the more

pressure/force

2. Amp (A) – ampere, the unit that measures the amount

of electrical current or the amount of electrons flowing

through (the higher the amp rating, the more electrons

flowing)

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Electrical Measurements2

3. Milliampere – one thousanth of an ampere (used in facial

treatments)

4. Ohm (O) – is a unit measuring the resistance of an

electrical current (pushing against the force); volts

MUST be more than ohms

5. Watt (W) – is a measurement of how much energy is

being used in one second (40 watts = 40 seconds)

6. Kilowatt (K) – is 1000 Watts

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F. Safety Devices

Fuse –special devices designed to prevent excess current from

flowing through the circuit – designed to blow if that happens

and fuse is replaced

Circuit breaker- the switch that automatically shuts off the circuit

when too much current goes through (houses)

G. Electrical Equipment Safety

Inspect regularly.

Never overload circuits.

Check for UL (Underwriter’s Laboratory) approval.

Ensure that appliances are grounded.

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H. Hints for the Safe Use of Electricity

Ensure UL certification.

Study instructions on use of equipment.

Disconnect appliances when not in use.

Inspect all electrical equipment regularly.

Keep wires, plugs, and equipment in good repair.

Use one plug per outlet.

Avoid contact with water or metal when using electricity.

Do not leave the room when client is connected to any

electrical device.

Keep cords off floor to avoid tripping.

Do not attempt to clean around electric outlets while

equipment is plugged in.

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Hints for the Safe Use of Electricity

Do not touch two metallic objects at the same time if either is

connected to current.

Do not step on or set objects on electrical cords.

Do not allow cords to become twisted or bent.

Disconnect appliances by pulling plug, not cord.

Do not attempt to repair electrical appliances unless you are

qualified.

Never tamper with wiring or plugs to get them to fit into a

receptacle they were not designed for.

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ELECTROTHERAPY A. Wall Plate

Facial stimulator/ Wall Plate – an instrument that plugs into a wall outlet and uses currents for facial/scalp treatments

B. Modalities Currents- from facial stimulators (most common=galvanic

current)

C. Electrode Apparatus that conducts electric current from a machine to the

client’s skin

D. Polarity Positive or negative state of electric current

Anode (Positive) electrode = RED

Cathode (Negative) electrode = Black

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ELECTROTHERAPY

E. Polarity Test #1

Separate tips and immerse in salt water.

Turn the selector switch to galvanic current.

As water is decomposed, more active bubbles will

accumulate at negative pole.

F. Polarity Test #2

Place tips of two conducting cords on two separate

pieces of blue moistened litmus paper.

Paper under positive pole will turn red.

Paper under negative pole will remain blue.

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ELECTROTHERAPY

G. Galvanic Current Active electrode

Inactive electrode

Positive pole, anode, red

Negative pole, cathode, black

H. Positive Pole Results Produces acidic reactions

Closes pores

Soothes nerves

Decreases blood supply

Contracts blood vessels

Hardens or firms tissues

Figure 7-23

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ELECTROTHERAPY I. Negative Pole Results

Produces alkaline reactions

Opens pores

Stimulates and irritates nerves

Increases blood supply to skin

Expands blood vessels

Softens tissues

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ELECTROTHERAPY

J. Iontophoresis (eye-ahn-toh-foh-REE-sus) Process of introducing water-soluble products into

the skin with the use of electric current

Cataphoresis (kat-uh-fuh-REE-sus) – will force acidic substances into deeper tissue using a galvanic current from positive to negative

Anaphoresis (an-uh-for-EES-sus) – process of forcing liquids into the tissue from negative toward positive

Desincrustation (des-in-krus-TAY-shun – process used to soften oil deposits and blackheads (also used for acne)

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ELECTROTHERAPY K. Faradic Current Benefits

Improves muscle tone

Promotes waste product removal

Increases blood circulation

Relieves congested blood

Increases glandular activity

Stimulates hair growth

Increases metabolism

L. Sinusoidal Current Benefits

Supplies greater stimulation; less irritating than faradic

Soothes nerves, penetrates muscle tissue

Best suited for nervous clients

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ELECTROTHERAPY M. CAUTIONS for Faradic and

Sinusoidal Currents Do not use if it causes pain or

discomfort.

Do not use if face is very florid.

Do not use if client has gold-filled teeth, high blood pressure, or pustular condition of skin.

N. Tesla High-Frequency Current Has high rate of oscillation or

vibration

Used for scalp and facial treatments

Used to treat thinning hair, itchy scalp, and excessively oily or dry skin

Figure 7-24

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ELECTROTHERAPY

O. Benefits of Tesla Current

Stimulates circulation of blood

Increases glandular activity

Aids in elimination and absorption

Increases metabolism

Improved germicidal action

Relieves congestion

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OTHER ELECTRICAL

EQUIPMENT

A. Conventional Hood Dryer

For drying hair

B. Electric Curling Irons

For curling hair

C. Heating Caps

For scalp treatments

D. Processing or Accelerating

Machine

Accelerates hair services

E. Steamer or Vaporizer For facials

F. Vibrator

For massage

G. Blow Dryer

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LIGHT THERAPY Visible Light - is electromagnetic radiation or

radiant energy, that is carried and has the ability

to be seen to be similar to the action of water

when you drop something into it, the wave it

creates

1) The wave that is created has wavelengths

which is the distance between two successive

peaks

2) The entire range of wavelengths is called the

electromagnetic spectrum

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LIGHT THERAPY 3) the only part of the electromagnetic spectrum that we

can see is visible light, which makes up 35% of natural

light, everything else are invisible rays

4) infrared rays make up 60% of natural sunlight and

have longer wavelengths and produce a lot of heat

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LIGHT THERAPY

B. Therapeutic Lamps produce same rays as the sun.

produce thermal, mechanical, and chemical effects.

C. Ultraviolet Rays (UV) Short wavelengths

Least penetrating rays

Chemical effects

D. Benefits of Ultraviolet Rays Kill germs

Produce vitamin D on skin

Treat psoriasis

Treat acne

Stimulate production of melanin

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LIGHT THERAPY

F. Disadvantages of Ultraviolet Rays

May cause sunburn

May cause skin cancer

G. Application of Ultraviolet Rays

Lamp should be 30 inches to 36 inches from skin.

Exposure should last only 2 to 3 minutes

Exposure can be increased gradually to 7 to 8 minutes.

H. Infrared Rays

60% of natural light

Penetrate the deepest

Produce the most heat

Have long wavelengths

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LIGHT THERAPY

I. Visible Light Rays White light

Blue light

Red light

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ELECTRICITY SUMMARY

Electricity plays an important role in the everyday

operations of a cosmetology salon.

A general understanding of electricity and the various

currents is very important because of the devices and

equipment used in salon services.

We cannot perform skin care services safely and

effectively without understanding which form of electrical

current gives the best results for the desired service.

Documents

Milady’s Standard Cosmetologyuhs.twpunionschools.org/subsites/spiotrowski/documents/7-Cos/M... · Milady’s Standard Cosmetology ... MATTER – any substance that occupies space