Minimization of Reworks in the Apparel Industry

January 2013. Vol. 1, No.4 ISSN 2305-8269

International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences © 2012 EAAS & ARF. All rights reserved

www.eaas-journal.org

147

MINIMIZATION OF REWORKS IN QUALITY AND PRODUCTIVITY

IMPROVEMENT IN THE APPAREL INDUSTRY

1

Md. Mazedul Islam

1Adnan Maroof Khan

2 Md.Mashiur Rahman Khan

Department of Textile Engineering, Daffodil International University, Bangladesh

1

Department of Apparel Manufacturing Engineering, Bangladesh University of textiles.

[email protected] ; [email protected] ; [email protected]

Abstract

The fast changing economic conditions such as global competition, declining profit margin, customer demand for

high quality product, product variety and reduced lead–time etc. had a major impact on manufacturing industries.

The demand for higher value at lower price is increasing and to survive, apparel manufacturers need to improve

their operations through-Producing right first time quality and waste reduction. This paper discusses the quality

and productivity improvement in a manufacturing enterprise through practical study. The paper deals with an

application of methodology in an industry which provides a framework to identify quantify and eliminate sources of

variation in an operational process, to optimize the operation variables, improve and sustain process performance

with well-executed control plans. The application of this paper improves the process performance of the critical

operational process, leading to better utilization of resources, decreases variations & maintains consistent quality

of the process output. The outcome of this observation reflected that an industry may gain higher productivity and

profitability with improved quality product by minimizing reworks activities. It also minimizes cost and improves

internal throughput time. A general overview over this development is given in this paper.

Keywords— Costs, Operation, Productivity, Profitability, product Quality, Reworks.

I. Introduction

As the global economic condition changing in a rapid

motion, generally in an industry more focus is given

on profit margin, customer demand for high quality

product and improved productivity. In garment

manufacturing, it is usual few rejected garments after

shipment. Reason, most of the manufacturers believe

that garments are soft goods and non-repairable

defect may occur due to low quality raw materials or

faulty process or employee casual behavior.

However, factory must have check points to control

over this issue. There is no ready-made solution that

can reduce rejection percentage overnight. Each order

is unique. But this paper works suggest how to

handle this issue and bring down rejection rate to

minimum. We see a lot of rejected garment after

shipment. Most of the organization termed these

garments as rejected because those garments can’t be

repaired by any means. Reworks in the garments

industry is a common works that hampers the smooth

production rate and focus poor quality products

having an impact on overall factory economy.

Minimization of reworks is a must in quality and

productivity improvement. Rework is a vital issue for

poor quality product and low production rate.

Reworks are the non -productive activities focusing

on any activity that customer are not willing to pay

for. Non-productive activities describe that the

customer does not consider as adding value to his

product. By reacting quicker in minimization of

reworks to make a product as per customer demand

with expected quality, the company can invest less

money and more costs savings. Therefore, a study

was carried out in the garment industry named Opex

& Sinha Textile Group located at Mirpur, Dhaka,

mailto:[email protected]






148

Bangladesh at cutting, sewing and finishing section

to identify reworks so as to eliminate them for saving

time, cost and improved product quality.

2. Problem Definition and Methodology

In the Apparel Manufacturing Industry, main raw

material is fabric; others are different types of

trimming and accessories. Operational wastages in

the Apparel manufacturing process are- top surface

rework, printed label rework, sewing fault rework,

pinhole rework, fabric rework Improper fly shape,

and other reworks. The general methodology

followed to minimize reworks is given below.

1. Review of the existing quality system in the

company

2. Identification of defects in the various

departments by collecting data from old

records

3. Analysis of data collected in order to

identify majorly occurring defects

4. Categorization of defects

5. Development of a model Quality Inspection

System

6. Implementation of check sheets to capture

defects in different departments

7. Training on concepts of quality, importance

of maintaining correct data, usage of the

collected data to analyze and solve quality

issues through the tools of quality

8. Introduction of Inline Inspection on Sewing

floor through a pilot run in one line

9. Training on the Sewing floor to QC’s,

supervisors and checkers on filling in the

format and on making Cause & Effect

Diagrams

10. Analysis of defects occurring in the check

sheets implemented in various departments

and devising suggestions to improve upon

them

11. Spreading of Inline inspection to other lines

12. Tracking of improvements and comparing

them with previous situation in different

departments

13. Visual communication of performance.

2.1. Review of factory existing Quality System

Fig. 1 Review of Existing Quality System




149

2.1. Identification of Defects

The reports of quality inspections in various departments were studied for the period of January – April- 2012.

2.1.1 Cutting Department:

Fig. 2 Lots percentages overview of cutting departments

2.1.2 Sewing Department

Fig. 3 Defect categories wise D.H.U in the sewing department

0.00

1.00

2.00

3.00

4.00

5.00

6.00

5.06

3.36 3.12

2.70 2.63

2.00

1.57 1.30 1.19 1.13 1.11 1.02 0.94

0.68 0.49 0.36 0.34 0.23 0.19 0.10 0.09

OPEN SEAMS JOINT OUTUNEVEN MARGIN BALANCING OUTUNEVEN NECK/PLACKET/W.BAND PUCKERINGEXPOSED RAW STITCH ROPINGFULLNESS WRONG LABEL ATTACH/LABEL MISSINGUNEVEN GATHER FABRIC DEFECTSBROKEN STITCH LOOSE TENSIONSHADE VARIATION WRONG PANEL ATTACHZIPPER PLACEMENT HOOK /LACE/ BUTTON PLACEMENT

Defect categories wise D.H.U.

76%

21%

3% Percentage of lots

PASS

FAIL

HOLD




150

2.1.3 Categorizations of Defects Sewing Defects: These defects are usually caused by

errors arising from wrong functioning of sewing

machines.

Seaming defects: These defects are usually caused by

errors arising from the interaction of the operator and

machine in the handling of garment.

Placement Defects: These defects are usually caused

by errors arising in marking and cutting as well as

sewing operations in the sewing room or a

combination of these

Fabric defects: These defects are usually caused by

errors arising from the fabric processing like knitting

and dyeing.

Embroidery defects: These defects are usually caused

by errors arising from the embroidery processing of

the garments.

2.1.4 Sewing Department Defects categories wise

Fig. 4 Defect categories wise D.H.U in the sewing department

0.00

5.00

10.00

15.00

20.00

25.00

20.73

14.00

3.37 1.02

0.10

D.H

.U.

Defect Categories

Defect categories wise D.H.U. (Defects per Hundread Unit)

SEAMING DEFECTSSEWING DEFECTSPLACEMENT DEFECTSFABRIC DEFECTSEMBROIDERY DEFECTS

Total pieces inspected- 30030

Defects encountered-11778

D.H.U.- 39.22

Where,

Seaming defects- 6224

Sewing defects- 4204

Placement defects-1012

Fabric defects-307

Embroidery defects-31




151

2.2 Stages of Model Development

2.3 Development of Model

2.4 Formats introduced in various departments.

1. Cutting audit format 2. Cutting pattern check

format. 3. Sewing in-line inspection format

4. Sewing end-line inspection format 5. Sewing cause

& effect analysis format. 6. Finishing initial

inspection format

Identification of various options at the

check points to capture defects

Selection of various tools to be used the

model

Developments of model

Inline Inspection

through Defect Frequency

Rating System

Defect capturing at the

End Line through check

sheets

Analysis of defects

Cause & Effect Analysis of

highest occurring Defects

Effective Solutions Provided

Format%20Cutting.xls

Format%20Cutting%20Pattern%20check.xlsx

Format%20Cutting%20Pattern%20check.xlsx

Format%20Inline.xls

Format%20Endline.xlsx

Format%20Cause%20and%20Effect.docx

Format%20Cause%20and%20Effect.docx

Format%20Finishing.xlsx

Format%20Finishing.xlsx




152

3.0 Experimental Sewing Data

Table.1 Defect categories wise and percentage defectives in the sewing department

DA

TE

Th

rea

d T

ensi

on

Sli

p s

titc

h

Bro

ken

sti

tch

Ro

pin

g

Pu

cker

ing

Un

even

fly

sh

ap

e

Un

even

To

p S

titc

h

Un

even

Ra

w

Ma

rgin

Ex

po

sed

Ra

w s

titc

h

La

bel

Att

ach

men

t

Mea

sure

men

t o

ut

Oth

ers

To

tal

Ch

eck

ed

Pie

ces

To

tal

Def

ecti

ve

Pie

ces

Per

cen

tag

e

Def

ecti

ve

1-Mar 4 56 56 56 100

3-Mar 6 10 4 8 42 22 52

4-Mar 13 9 11 77 22 29

5-Mar 2 2 4 42 5 12

6-Mar 2 9 8 78 12 15

7-Mar 1 6 9 6 67 16 24

8-Mar 10 7 8 75 17 23

10-Mar 1 1 5 4 3 70 10 14

11-Mar 4 3 1 3 2 3 15 139 23 17

12-Mar 9 4 2 3 5 97 17 18

13-Mar 2 3 4 5 55 11 20

14-Mar 5 2 1 3 3 4 116 12 10

15-Mar 2 1 2 5 1 2 3 7 203 18 9

17-Mar 5 1 3 3 9 151 14 9

18-Mar 11 1 11 139 17 12

19-Mar 20 2 3 12 207 29 14

20-Mar 4 2 12 135 14 10

21-Mar 4 2 1 3 87 8 9

24-Mar 2 3 3 2 70 8 11

25-Mar 3 2 2 2 1 94 8 9

TOTAL 1 35 2 72 14 27 30 5 2 55 70 134 2000 339 17




153

4.0 Cause & Effect diagram for major occurring defects and their implemented solutions

4.1 Measurement out of tolerance

Solutions Provided

Cause Solution

Notches improper at pleats Cutting Department was informed about the cause and the reason

identified was misalignment of plies during cutting. This being a

major defect causing activity was asked to be checked 100% in the

audit before sending the bundles to sewing. A template was provided

against which the pieces were checked and in case of any deviation,

white pencil was used to mark pleat positions.

Improper sweep shape after

panel attachment

Bottom trimming was done to make the sweep uniform.

Improper sweep shape

after panel attachment

Notches not proper




154

4.2 Puckering at waistband

Causes

Solution

Improper pre- setting of waistband after thumb

pressing

Pressing was done by steam iron with a spray of starch over it.

This made the handling of the waistband easier while stitching and

thus reduced puckering at the waistband.

Improper pre-setting of

waistband




155

4.3 Roping

4.4 Waistband extension uneven

Causes Solution

Improper folder setting on machine

The folder guide was adjusted and improper materials

handling avoided




156

4.5 Improper fly shape

Causes Solution

Margin not followed while attaching waistband and

waistband edge not finished properly

The operator was instructed to be careful while feeding

and following the margins strictly

Causes Solution

Top stitch is being inhibited by zipper lock underneath

A template was provided to the operator and the stitch

was shifted a little below, altering the fly shape within

tolerance level




157

4.6 Fusing shining marks

5.0 Trend chart showing reduction in defect levels after implemented solutions

Fig. 5 Defects level Reduction in Measurements Out

Causes Solution

Poor quality fusing used Fusing was changed and skilled operator required

0

20

40

60

1-Mar 2-Mar 3-Mar 4-Mar

D.H.U. levels in Measurement Out




158

Fig. 6 Defects levels Reduction in Puckering

Fig. 7 Defects levels Reduction in Roping

0

5

10

15

20

25

D.H.U. levels in Puckering

0

10

20

30

40

3-Mar 4-Mar 5-Mar 6-Mar

D.H.U. levels in Uneven fly shape

02468

101214

6-M

ar

7-M

ar

8-M

ar

9-M

ar

10-M

ar

11-M

ar

12-M

ar

13-M

ar

14-M

ar

15-M

ar

16-M

ar

17-M

ar

18-M

ar

19-M

ar

D.H.U. levels in Roping




159

Fig. 8 Defects levels Reduction in Uneven Fly Shape

Fig. 9 Defects levels Reduction in Label Attachment

Fig. 10 Defects levels Reduction in Uneven top Stitch

0

5

10

15

20

25

3-Mar 4-Mar 5-Mar 6-Mar 7-Mar 8-Mar 9-Mar 10-Mar 11-Mar 12-Mar

Defects levels in Uneven Top Stitch

Uneven top stitch

02468

10121416

Defects levels in Label Attachment




160

6.0 Defects analysis in finishing department

Fig. 11 Defects analysis in finishing department

6.1 Recommended Suggestions Implemented to Reduce Defects in finishing section

1.Oil spots: Application of a scrap paper under the

presser feet of sewing machines after the day’s work

so that the machines which are leaking oil can be

tracked.

2. Proper oiling level to be maintained in order to

prevent leakage of extra oil

3.Operator to take responsibility of cleaning the

machine after lubrication

4. Immediate reporting of oil leakage

Ink/ chalk marks: Usage of good quality markers, the

marks of which are easily washable 2.Avoid using

pencils for marking. 3. Usage of chalks on white and

light colored fabrics.

Soil and dust: 1.Usage of plastic bags for storing and

transportation of pieces. 2. Cleaning of checking

tables and machines before the start of day’s work 3.

Avoid keeping garments on the floor, using trolleys

for storage. 4. Creating a polyethene sheet partition

between sewing and finishing departments so that

fabric dust doesn’t come over to the finishing unit

and settle down on the washed fabric.

Suggestions implemented to reduce no. of uncut &

loose thread: 1.Thread cutting operation to be carried

out after washing in order to counteract unraveling of

threads after washing 2. Use of thread sucking

machine to prevent any loose threads to reach the

checkpoint

0

50

100

150

200

250239

206

132

106

4 3 3

SOIL/ DUST/ RUST OIL SPOTSTICKER MARKS INK/CHALK MARKSWEAT MARKS TOBACCO MARKVEGETABLE MARKS




161

7.0 Department wise results and discussion (Sewing, Finishing and Cutting department)

7.1 Cutting Department

Fig. 12 Overall reductions in defect levels for cutting department

7.2 Sewing Department

Fig. 13 Overall reductions in defect levels for sewing department

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

40

45

01/0

2/0

8

08/0

2/0

8

15/0

2/0

8

22/0

2/0

8

29/0

2/0

8

07/0

3/0

8

14/0

3/0

8

21/0

3/0

8

28/0

3/0

8

04/0

4/0

8

11/0

4/0

8

0

20

40

60

80

100

120

1-M

ar

2-M

ar

3-M

ar

4-M

ar

5-M

ar

6-M

ar

7-M

ar

8-M

ar

9-M

ar

10

-Mar

11

-Mar

12

-Mar

13

-Mar

14-M

ar

15

-Mar

16

-Mar

17

-Mar

18

-Mar

19

-Mar

20

-Mar

21

-Mar

22

-Mar

23

-Mar

24

-Mar

25-M

ar

Overall Percent defective trend

Percentage defective




162

7.4 Finishing Department

Fig. 14 Overall reductions in defect levels for finishing department

Cutting lot failure rate reduced to zero percent

generally. Sewing percent defective reduced to

approximately 40%. In finishing, stitching D.H.U.

came down to approximately 8% from 16% as

earlier, uncut thread D.H.U. came down to

approximately 10% from 22% as earlier. Rework

increased the cost of the different work categories

between 2% to 30%. However, some best practices to

control defect generation within the factory were

suggested as- Make the workplace clean – from

fabric store to cutting to sewing to washing and

finishing. Place quality control system in proper

place. Implies that sufficient no. of checkers, trained

checkers, checkers making report while checking,

analysis of reports and take action based on the

quality check reports. Conduct training program for

the checkers on how to check piece correctly to

capture defective pieces. Train them to make garment

checking reports. Run quality awareness program for

your employees. Quality standard must be understood

by each employee and everybody have to work to

meet quality goal. No low standard work should be

accepted by the following department. In sewing line

don’t allow operators to keep bundles open and each

bundle must be completed before forwarding to the

next. It will help you track missing pieces. It is usual

experience that operators throw pieces under tables

when they make mistake or receive defective

(incomplete) garments from previous operator.

Nobody keeps track of these missing pieces until you

found shortage of garments in finishing. Set standard

operating procedures (SOP) for each task performed

by your employees. SOP for quality control system

for each department. Set audit team to audit your

quality system in a regular interval. These

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

20

Fab

ric

Fau

lt

Sh

ade

Var

iati

on

Sti

tch

ing

Un

cut/

Loo

se t

hre

ad

Inse

cure

sti

tch

Har

d S

tain

s

Em

bro

ider

y/B

ead

s/P

rin

tin

g

Wro

ng/M

issi

ng L

abel

Cut

& H

ole

Men

din

g

To

uch

ing

Oth

ers

February March April 1- 15




163

recommendations were suggested to the individual department.

8. Conclusion

The suggestive tools developed in this article cover a

comprehensive series of aspects in minimizing

reworks in the sewing section of apparel industries by

ensuring quality production. The importance of the

textile industry in the economy of Bangladesh is very

high. The explosive growth of the RMG industry in

the country, however, has not been enough supported

by the growth of backward linkage facilities. So

manufacturing the quality product is mandatory to

sustain in this global competitive market. Quality is

ultimately a question of customer satisfaction. Good

Quality increases the value of a product or service,

establishes brand name, and builds up good

reputation for the garment exporter, which in turn

results into consumer satisfaction, high sales and

foreign exchange for the country. The perceived

quality of a garment is the result of a number of

aspects, which together help achieve the desired level

of satisfaction for the customer. However, we should

bear in mind that 1% defective product for an

organization is 100% defective for the customer who

buys that defective product. The study clearly

indicates that by eliminating non-productive activities

like reworks in the apparel industries time as well as

cost are saved by ensuring quality production which

have an important impact on overall factory

economy.

References

[1] Dr P Khanna: Work study, time and motion study,

Dhanpat Rai and Sons, New Delhi, (pp 21-31).

[2] F.M. Gryna, J.A. DeFeo, “Quality Planning &

Analysis for Enterprise Quality”, Tata McGraw-

Hill, Edition, 2008

[3] (Opex Group) (n.d.). Retrieved december 2012,

from viyellatex group: http//www.opexgroup.com

[4] (viyellatex group)(n.d.). Retrieved december

2012, from viyellatex group:

http//www.viyellatexgroup.com

[5] http//www.asiantextilejournal.com

[6] (Sepal Group)(n.d.). Retrieved december 2012.

From sepal group http//www.sepalgroup.com

[7] (n.d.). Retrieved nov 2012, from fiber 2 fashion:

http//www.fiber2fashion.com

[8]Saroj Bala, Factors Influencing Costing of

Woven Fabrics, The Indian Textile Journal, 2003

[9]Dean J W and Bowen D E., 1994, Management

Theory and Total Quality: Improving Research

and Practice and Theory Development, the Academy

of Management Review 19, (3) PP 392-418.

[10]O.H. Khan, “A Study of Six Sigma

Implementation and Critical Success Factor”,

Pakistan’s Ninth International Convention on Quality

Improvement, Karachi, Pakistan, pp. 1-12, Nov. 2005

[11]Hawken, Paul, Amory Lovins, and L. Hunter

Lovins. Natural Capitalism: Creating the Next

Industrial Revolution (New York Little, Brown and

Company, 1999)

[12] Florida, R. “Lean and Green The Move to

Environmentally Conscious Manufacturing.”

California Management Review 39, (1996) 80-105

[13]Environmental Technology Best Practice

Programmed. (1996). saving money through waste

minimization raw material use, GG25, Crown

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[14]M.Mahajan, “Statistical Quality Control”,

Dhanpat Rai & Co. (P) LTD. pp.186-206,

Authors Biographies:

Md. Mazedul Islam

The author is associated as Lecturer in

the Department of Textile Engineering

at Daffodil International University,

Dhaka, Bangladesh. His research

interest fields are- Apparel production

and Merchandising, Production

Management. Industrial Engineering,

Apparel and fabric finishing, Textile

and Apparel Quality control, Apparel

Brand management, Apparel Washing

etc.

Adnan Maroof Khan

The author is associated as Lecturer in

the Department of Textile Engineering

at Daffodil International University,

http://www.asiantextilejournal.com/




164

Dhaka, Bangladesh. His research

interest fields’ are- Garments

Technology, Production Management,

Garments Quality Control &

Management, Textile Coloration &

Fabric Structure and design, etc.

Md. Mashiur Rahman Khan

Assistant Professor & Head,

Department of Apparel Manufacturing

Engineering, Bangladesh University

of textiles.

Documents

Minimization of Reworks in the Apparel Industry