MODULE 5: Various Pet First Aid Techniques

This module teaches you core skills such as how to control blood loss, clean a wound and

bandage injuries.

• 5.1 Treating Shock

o 3.1.1 Signs of Shock

o 3.1.2 What is Shock?

o 3.1.3 Treating Shock

• 5.2 Controlling blood loss

o 3.2.1 Applying Pressure to a Wound

• 5.3 Cleaning wounds

o 3.3.1 Cleaning Bite Wounds or Minor Injuries

• 5.4 Basic nursing

• 5.5 Bandaging

o 3.5.1 Bandaging materials

o 3.5.2 Bandaging techniques

o 3.5.3 Improvised dressings

5.1 Treating Shock

An animal that is injured, in pain, ill, or

even fearful, can go into shock. Indeed,

when an animal is involved in trauma,

such as a traffic collision, the shock may

prove fatal rather than blood loss or

broken bones. This goes to show

the importance of recognizing signs of

shock and then acting swiftly to stabilize

the patient.

Module 3.2.6 also covers the signs shock but given its importance here is a quick recap.

5.1.1 Signs of Shock

• Mental confusion or decreased alertness

• The patient seems weak and / or loss of consciousness

• A low body temperature (check for cold paws)

• A weak, rapid pulse

• Slow capillary refill time (more than 2 seconds)

• Rapid shallow breathing or abnormally slow breathing.

• Pale gums with a slow capillary refill time

• Dilated pupils

5.1.2 What is Shock?

Shock is the body’s attempt to protect the major organs from oxygen deprivation in the face

of circulatory collapse. To do this the body closes down none vital blood vessels such as

those supplying the skin, extremities and gut, in order to prioritize the blood supply to the

brain, heart, and lungs.

Physical evidence of this is the patient feels cold to the touch (the circulation to their skin and

paws has shut down), and their gums have a slow capillary refill time (more than 2 seconds).

Type Cause Effect

Traumatic shock Falling from a height, Being hit by a

car, A kick from a horse

The trauma causes internal or external

bleeding, which reduces blood pressure.

In addition, the patient is also in pain,

which can trigger a reaction of shock.

Anaphylactic shock

A sting or bite from something the

patient is allergic to such as a bee

sting. Anaphylactic shock can also

happen after a vaccination

The allergic reactions cause a cascade

of hormones which results in low blood

pressure and shock

Cardiogenic shock A patient with a history of heart

disease loses the ability to cope

The heart exhausts its compensatory

mechanisms, the circulation of blood is

inadequate, blood pressure drops, and

the animal goes into shock

Toxic or septic shock Toxins, such as a snake or insect

bites, or an overwhelming infection.

The effect of toxins causes the organs to

shut down which results in shock

Dehydration or volume Severe vomiting, diarrhoea, or Reduction in the liquid part of blood

sends the organs

depletion lack of drinking water into survival mode

5.1.3 Treating Shock

The treatment of shock is complex and depends on supporting the pet’s circulation (by the

use of intravenous fluids as given by a veterinarian), keeping the patient warm (as they are

prone to heat loss), and correcting the underlying cause.

• Traumatic shock: Stop blood loss and start pain management

• Anaphylactic shock: Antihistamines or corticosteroids to switch off the allergic reaction

• Cardiogenic shock: Medications to support heart function

• Septic shock: Antibiotics to fight infection

• Dehydration: Intravenous fluids to replace lost fluids

Thus, most cases of shock require rapid intervention by a vet. However, stopping blood

loss in the case of trauma and keeping the patient warm is of crucial importance. Take

immediate action first and then phone the vet so they are waiting for your arrival, and

transport the pet to the clinic with all possible speed.

To keep an animal warm, consider:

• Insulate them from the ground: If the ground is colder than the pet, the pet transfers their

body heat to the earth which causes further chilling. Place a mat, blanket or coat under

the pet.

• Cover with a blanket or coat : To prevent further heat loss to the air

• Handwarmer or hot water bottle: Use the hand warmer from a first aid kit, or a hot water

bottle to keep the patient warm. Always wrap a hottie in a towel to prevent thermal burns

to the animal.

• Do NOT give oral pain relief. As part of the shock reaction, blood is diverted away from

the gut and oral medicines are poorly absorbed, plus they are liable to sit in contact with

the stomach wall, causing gastric ulcers. Whilst not giving pain relief may seem like a

bad thing, it positively leaves the field clear for the vet to give strong pain relief by

injection, without the risk of drug interactions.

5.2 Controlling Blood Loss

During their lifetime most pets will cut or injure themselves in some way. From a cutting

a paw on broken glass, to a catfight resulting in a ripped ear, or the dog hit by a car, it’s

important you know what to do when faced with a bleeding animal.

5.2.1 Applying Pressure to a Wound

For everything, but a major arterial bleed, applying pressure to the wound is usually

enough to allow a blood clot to form which stops further bleeding.

Place a clean cotton pad (alternatively a finger or a sanitary napkin) over the wound and

apply a constant firm pressure for around 5 minutes. Press hard enough that the bleeding

stops and then keep the pressure on for 5 minutes. Should the pad soak through during that

time, do not remove it but apply another over the top of the first.

After 5 minutes cautiously raise one corner of the pad to see if the bleeding has stopped.

• If yes, slowly remove the pad and take the animal to a vet

• If no, apply firmer pressure and hold for another 5 minutes (or apply a pressure

bandage and get to the vet)

• If after an additional 5 minutes the area is still bleeding, apply a pressure bandage and

take the pet to a vet

A Pressure Bandage

• This is a bandage which is applied tightly to a cotton pad to stop the wound

from bleeding. These are useful and highly effective for short periods of time, such as

transporting the patient to a vet.

• First place a pad over the wound, then

wrap several layers of bandage over

the top. Put sufficient tension on the

bandage that the pressure causes the

bleeding to stop. Now extend the

bandage above and below the wound

in order to spread the pressure acting

like a tourniquet. If possible, include the pet’s paw in the dressing in order to prevent

it swelling because blood cannot escape from the paw and return to the heart.

• Ideally, a pressure bandage should only be left in place for around 15 - 30 minutes,

or there is a danger of cutting off the circulation and causing complications.

A Word of Caution about Tourniquets

A tourniquet is a tight bandage used to cut off the blood supply to a limb. Traditionally,

a tourniquet was used to stop blood pumping out of an arterial bleed where the patient would

otherwise be in grave danger of bleeding out. In these circumstances it may still be

appropriate to use a tourniquet in bursts of 5 -10 minutes, however, there is a severe risk of

complications further down the line.

The problem is a tourniquet cuts off the blood supply to the whole limb. Deprived of vital

oxygen, the tissues quickly start to die off, which can lead to complications such as gangrene,

if the patient recovers from the original injury.

If you see the pet’s life is in danger from blood loss and a tourniquet is the only option, then

loosen the tension every 5 – 10 minutes, to allow blood to flow back into the limb and resupply

the tissues with vital oxygen.

If necessary, work in cycles with the tourniquet applied for 5 – 10 minutes, loosened for

one minute, and then reapplied, whilst you transport the patient to a vet. While the tourniquet

is loosened, apply pressure with a fingertip directly onto the bleeding vessel to provide a

modicum of control while the rest of the limb is resupplied with blood.

5.3 Cleaning wounds

For minor wounds and injuries prompt cleaning is important as it reduces the risk of

infection. However, for a large, bleeding wound your priority is to prevent further blood

loss and then seek help. It is not a good idea to clean major wounds in the field, since this

disturbs blood clots and may restart haemorrhage. Leave the cleaning of large wounds to

the vet in the controlled conditions of the clinic. Instead, use the time more effectively by

avoiding delay and make straight for professional medical attention.

5.3.1 Cleaning Bite Wounds or Minor Injuries

The secret to cleaning wounds effectively is to use large volumes of fluid in order to wash

and flush grit or bacteria away. The ideal solution for this is sterile saline, which you may

have in your first aid kit, or use contact lens solution. Saline is gentle on damaged tissue

whilst effective at cleaning away contamination.

A good second choice of cleaning agent is either dilute disinfectant (such as Betadine)

or salt water. These both have excellent disinfectant properties, but can be slightly damaging

to exposed tissue and so there is a small risk they may delay the eventual healing of the

wound.

To make up a saltwater solution, add a teaspoon of table salt to a pint of previously

boiled and cooled water. Mix well. Soak clean cotton wool in this solution then dribble

liberally over the wound to wash away dirt, saliva, or bacteria. When wiping a wound, always

work from the centre of the injury out toward the edges.

When using Betadine, dilute it well with water until it is the colour of weak tea as strong

betadine will definitely damage tissue.

5.4 Basic nursing

The nursing care of the patient in a first aid situation is crucial to their recovery. A little TLC

can go a long way when it comes to helping a pet feel better and make a speedy recovery.

The other side of the coin is that good nursing involves careful observation of the patient to

monitor for improvement or deterioration, which allows you to adjust their treatment

appropriately.

Basic nursing includes:

• Warmth: From tummy upsets to wounds, keeping the pet warm and comfortable helps

them feel better. Sick animals are prone to heat loss, which in extreme cases can lead

to shock.

• Fluid intake: Make sure the patient is drinking water and keeping it down. If necessary,

bathe the gums with a clean flannel soaked in water to keep the patient’s mouth moist.

• Comfortable Bedding: Warm comfortable bedding helps prevent pressure sores,

retains heat, and generally helps the pet feel better.

• Change of Position: A poorly pet that is lying down and not moving around, should be

encouraged to change position every half hour or so. This prevents fluid from pooling in

the ‘downside’ of the lungs and also reduces the risk of bed sores.

• Monitoring Urine and Feces: It is important to know what the pet is passing (normal or

abnormal appearance and frequency)

since this provides valuable clues about

the animal’s condition.

• Cleaning: Keeping the animal free of

urine or faecal soiling is important to

prevent skin infections and keep the

pet comfortable.

• Change Dressings: Keeping

dressings clean and change them as instructed by a veterinarian, which helps prevent

secondary infections.

• Regular Medications: Making sure the pet takes their medication on time.

• Monitoring: Being vigilant for changes (both good and bad) such as a rising fever, so

you can seek professional help quickly

• Hand Feeding: A poorly pet can sometimes be encouraged to eat by hand feeding

slightly warmed food.

5.5 Bandaging

Mention first aid and for many people this conjures up images of bandaged arms in

slings. Good bandaging technique is a staple of first aid, and is actually more difficult than

it looks. This is especially true when you patient is an animal because a loose bandage is

prone to fall off when the pet shakes their paw, and they cannot tell you if a too-tight bandage

is cutting off the circulation or causing pressure sores.

Don’t be bashful about practising your bandaging skills. Perhaps cut your teeth on a

human volunteer because they can tell you if the bandage is uncomfortably tight. Once

you’ve mastered the correct tension, then practice on your pet or cuddly toys until

bandaging becomes second nature.

5.5.1 Bandaging Materials

Your first aid kit should be equipped with the following basics.

• Cotton wool

• Sterile pad

• Gauze bandage

• Co-flex self-adhesive bandage

• Elastic adhesive bandage e.g. Elastoplast, Tensoplast

Use of Dressing Materials

Material Purpose How to Use

Cotton wool

1- Place between toes

to stop claws digging in

2- Wrapped around a

fractured limb to

provide padding and

support

1- Roll into small sausages and place

between the toes

2- When applying a splint tear off flat strips of

cotton wool and wrap evenly around the limb

to form padding

Sterile Pad

Protects the wound

from further

contamination

Place the pad over the wound and then

bandage over the top of it to hold it in place.

Sterile pads are usually ‘non-stick’ which

makes them easier to remove from a sticky

wound, than a bandage.

Gauze bandage Forms the body of the

dressing

Wound in overlapping layers to form a spiral

around the area in need of dressing

Coflex

Optional: Keeps the

bandage clean and

provides extra support

Wind over the top of the bandage to keep it

together and provide extra support

Elastic adhesive bandage

Useful to stop a

bandage slipping off a

leg

Overlap the adhesive bandage, part on the

fur and part on the dressing, to provide an

anchor.

5.5.2 Bandaging Techniques

Your first decision is whether a bandage is necessary or not.

Reasons to bandage an injury include to shield it from further exposure to dirt, to stop the

animal licking it, or to reduce bleeding by holding a pad in place. However, small, non-

bleeding wounds that the pet is paying no attention to are best left open to the air, which

helps the wound to dry up.

Be careful not to apply a bandage too tightly, as this can cut off the blood supply. If

necessary, dress the wound erring on the loose side, and use adhesive bandage overlapping

some fur and the bandage, to secure it in place temporarily.

Bandaging a Paw

Clean and dry the injury. Place a sterile pad over the injured area. Use small sausages

of cotton wool in between each toe to separate them and stop the nails from digging into

the neighbouring toe.

Hold the roll of gauze bandage along the leg. Place one end on the back of the

paw, holding it with a thumb whilst rolling the bandage over the toes to the underside of

the foot to cover the pads. Hold that piece in place with a finger and reverse the direction

to re-trace the bandage over the toes and up onto the back of the paw to form a double

layer.

Now, angle the bandage to 90 degrees to the leg, and start bandaging around the paw,

overlapping each previous throw by one half to a third. Apply moderate tension to each

throw. Take the bandage as high as needed, then return, winding downwards to provide at

least a double layer. Place as many layers, winding up and down the paw, as necessary.

Cut the bandage and tuck the free end under a previous wrap to secure it in place.

Now wind a layer of Coflex over the top of the gauze bandage to protect it. Do not apply

tension to the Coflex. For extra security overlap a throw of adhesive bandage around fur

and the top of the bandage to secure it in place.

Bandaging a Limb

Start bandaging as you would for a paw but take the bandage as high up the leg as

necessary.

Alternatively, place a sterile pad over the injury and hold it in place with adhesive tape.

Then wind the gauze bandage over the top. Finish with a layer of Coflex or alternatively a

sock, in order to protect the dressing, and secure the sock using adhesive tape.

Splinting a Limb

If you suspect a limb is broken, a splint can help support the fracture whilst you seek help.

You can use anything that is stiff to provide rigidity, such as a stick, rolled up newspaper,

or cardboard.

First apply a bandage to the whole of the limb, including the joints above and below the

fracture site. If you have cotton wool, wrap the bandage in padding to provide extra

support. Now place the bracing against the dressing, along with the length of the limb.

Use strips of adhesive dressing tape to circle around the splint and hold it to the dressing.

For extra security wind another layer of bandage over the limb to enclose the splint.

Have someone hold the pet still whilst you transport them to the vet clinic.

Bandaging a Tail

Be warned, tails are tricky to bandages dog’s quickly wag them off, so don’t be discouraged

if your first effort comes off right away. Try again…

Apply a sterile pad to the wound. Tape the pad to the fur with adhesive bandaging tape. Now

use gauze bandage, wrapping it around the tail in an overlapping spiral to add extra

security. Finish with adhesive dressing tape overlapping the bandage to the fur at the tail

base.

Bandaging an Ear

Ear wounds can bleed profusely, especially when the pet shakes their head. To prevent this

place a sterile pad over the injury. Fold the injured ear on top of the patient’s head.

Now fold the good ear on top of that to form an “ear sandwich”. Hold both ears in place on

top of the head by winding gauze bandage around the head and neck as many times as

needed. Secure the dressing in place with adhesive dressing tape overlapping fur and

bandage.

Take care to be able to insert two fingers between the dressing and the throat, or the

dog may not be able to breathe.

Bandaging the Body

Apply a sterile pad to the wound and wind bandage around the body to hold it in place. Secure

in position with adhesive dressing tape.

Alternatively, if the wound is not bleeding but the pet is licking the area, try putting a small T-

shirt on the dog (the dog’s head through the neck, front legs through the sleeves) then knot

the hem over the dog’s back, to keep the body covered.

5.5.3 Improvised Dressings

If you don’t have access to bandages, you can improvise surprisingly effective dressings

from common articles of clothing.

• Stretchy long sports socks in a small size or stockings are a useful way to cover a leg.

Also trying cutting the toe of a pair of pantyhose or stockings, to make a head dressing.

• T-shirts make great body dressings, as do pillowcases, withholds cut for the legs and

head.

Be careful about how you secure a makeshift dressing in place. Avoid using safety pins

where possible because these are hazardous if swallowed. At a push you can use duct

tape to secure the fabric, but avoid putting this in contact with fur as it is so sticky that it can

be difficult to remove afterwards.

Regardless of the type of dressing, be sure to change it regularly(a minimum of daily) or

as directed by your veterinarian. This ensures wounds are kept clean and allows you to check

for infection regularly.

Always be vigilant for the pet chewing at dressing, as this can be a sign the dressing is

too tight and the circulation compromised. If in doubt, remove the dressing and start again

rather than risk a too tight dressing causing permanent damage.