21
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN M JAVE CREATIVE LAB

Mojave Creative Lab

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Page 1: Mojave Creative Lab

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

Since 2009 Mojave Creative Lab has been creating innovative

designs in scientific method to ensure yoursquore stoked and your

market is moved

Mojave is a full service creative priding itself in unmatched

design incredible service and timely turn-arounds David has

art directed and designed publications with distribution well

over 50000 has had his work published on USA Today and has

branded events featuring the most notable people and companies

in the outdoor industry His work ranges from simple digital

campaigns to complex print publications tiny web ads to large

scale tradeshow graphics On any given day Mojave Creative Lab

produces advertising material websites email and social media

campaigns infographics branding material event collateral

tradeshow signage print collateral and more Good design

happens and is necessary everywhere For a quote contact David

at dboersmamojavecreativelabcom

[This page] David and his wife Tara drying off after a surf session Mondo Beach CA Gretchen Davis [Cover] Mountain Khakis ambassador Eric Bouwman and Patagonia Environmental Programs Associate Paul Hendricks slog up to base camp Uneva Pass CO David Boersma

Good design lands somewhere between the abstract and concrete worlds of art and science

ABOUT MOJAVE

PRINT DIGITAL

magazine layout websites

posters social

mailers e-newsletters

invitations presentations

tradeshow and loads more

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

mojavecreativelabcom | 1

David Boersma Art Director at Mojave Creative Lab has worked

on behalf of a multitude brands particularly in the outdoor and

travel industries This includes world-renowned brands Merrellreg

Otterboxreg Incasereg KbullSWISSreg REIreg Levirsquosreg New Era Capreg

Airwalkreg Obermeyerreg Filsonreg Cushereg Palladiumreg Above

The Rimreg Skiscom The American Alpine Club Travaasareg

Experiential Resorts Park Hyatt Beaver Creekreg The Brown

Palace Hotel amp Spareg and many more

When not laying out designs or scouring the world for the

latest trends like every other Coloradoan hersquos typically found

tucked away somewhere in the Rocky Mountains backpacking

snowboarding or climbing with his wife and two dogs cooler in

tow His daily routine didnrsquot always consist of of a low-key climb

and craft beer Prior to moving to Colorado David hiked much

of the Appalachian Trail and motorcycled the length of the Andes

Mountains throughout South America While now settled and

married he still tries to live his life in ways that continue to look

beyond the familiar

If yoursquod like to explore working with David contact him at

dboersmamojavecreativelabcom

ABOUT THE DAVID

[This page Top] David and his wife at his hometownrsquos first annual Pride Festival Holland MI [This page Bottom Left] School children Tanzania David Boersma [This page Bottom Right] Boy

fishing Zanzibar David Boersma [Facing Page] David leaving Machu Picchu Ollantaytambo Peru

My creative inspiration is the result of experiencing a world much bigger than myself

ldquo ldquo

2 | mojavecreativelabcom

mojavecreativelabcom | 3

CLIENTS

only a small selection of clients that Art Director David Boersma has done design work for

TRAVAASA EXPERIENTIAL RESORTS

NEW ERA CAP

EVO ROCK + FITNESS

KbullSWISS

INCASE

FILSON

REI

MERRELLSKISCOM

OTTERBOX

MOONLIGHT BASIN

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB

JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATION

AMERICAN MOUNTAINEERING MUSEUM

PARADOX SPORTS

OBERMEYER

AIRWALK

One last fall crag day at Jurassic Park Colorado David Boersma

4 | mojavecreativelabcom

VIEW ONLINE

POURING DOWN

RISING UP

TWe had already climbed Red Dihedral on The Incredible

Hulk the Harding Route on Keeler Needle and Dark Star on

Temple Crag I had dreamed about climbing these routes

since my infancy as a rock climber And this was the last of

Peter Croftrsquos ldquoBig FourrdquomdashMount Conness As we dropped

into one of the gullies to reach the base its sheer 1200rsquo

southwest face bathed us in a shadow of intimidation

And there was one more reason Conness was last on

our ticklist

ldquoI guess we found the routerdquo I said to Luke pointing at

the Goodrich Memorial

ldquoLetrsquos just get it done withrdquo

In 1959 after Warren Hardingrsquos landmark ascent of

the Nose the southwest face of Mount Conness was a

logical step to test the skills of Yosemite big-wall climbers

If siege tactics could work on El Capitan why not this

overhanging alpine face Don Goodrich and Krehe Ritter a

by Tony Chang photos by Ken Etzel

18 | Advocacy Advocacy | 19

to the challenge On his maiden attempt of the wall Goodrich pulled a huge block off the second pitch Although he jumped free when the block pulled outward it rolled over his body and crushed his skull on the wall

A few months later Harding Herb Swedlund and Glen Denny made their own bid for the first ascent With Goodrichrsquos blood still staining the wall they made the two-day climb using the standard Harding method lots of pitons drilled bolts and wine

We just wanted to get our tired bodies to the top The first pitch greeted us with a wet mess turning our 59 into something of a 510+ insecure slab But Luke the technician took it down with a smile

If you met him on the street yoursquod think of Luke as your standard white-collar desk jockey He works as a research scientist for a landscape conservation NGO in Truckee California However under his office-nerd facade is a serious competitor and athlete Having ticked 21 desert towers and 33 technical canyons across Utah and Arizona as well as multiple

3000rsquo+ climbing days in the Sierra Luke is no stranger to adventure and suffering We met four years ago during my third year of graduate school I had moved to Flagstaff Arizona primarily for school but also for the great access to local climbing Learning to climb in California my most memorable major climbing experiences had been winter ascents of peaks in the Sierra Given our collective climbing backgrounds Luke and I made a good match for a variety of objectives

We also shared a mutual motivation to be more like our climbing hero Peter Croft so when I saw the Live Your Dream request for proposals I approached Luke with the idea of climbing the Big Four Somehow we landed the grant and there we were on a massive alpine face our bodies tired and broken after so many days of technical climbing above 10000 feet

Pitch 2 is the technical crux Luke offered to take this one on the condition that I take the difficult off-width pitch higher up Deal It was a wild bit of rock climbingmdashone of those pitches that keeps you engaged physically and mentally the whole time I heard Luke scream through the crux as he disappeared over a roof

Blistering sun hit me at 11 am as I cruised up hand jams and thrutched into the offwidth large crystals chewing through my skin Halfway up I placed my only 6 Camalot The offwidth continued but toned down a bit to 58 a grade on which Irsquom considerably more comfortable Unfortunately the only protection I had was a green Big Bro and some janky bolts Warren Harding put up half a century ago I placed the Big Bro after 20 feet but accidentally kicked it out after climbing above it I heard it twist and fall all the way down to my last cam Awesome The remaining offwidth although semi-secure was not easy moving I groveled the last 25 feet in fear and exhaustion to reach the belay blood soaking through the legs of my pants I looked like I had been in a motorcycle accident

Luke rocketed up reminding me that I was probably looking at an 80-foot whipper if I didnrsquot make it He led the last cruxmdashthe most intimidating part of the routemdasha steep face with an exposed step-across move into a chimney When Luke got there his last piece was a ways to his left with a nasty pendulum into a wall if he blew it I kept the belay

DREAMLIVE YOUR

THE AAC GRANT FOR THE EVERY-DAY ADVENTURER

powered by

I GROVELED THE LAST 25 FEET IN FEAR AND EXHAUSTION TO REACH THE BELAY BLOOD SOAKING THROUGH THE LEGS OF MY PANTS I LOOKED LIKE I HAD BEEN IN A

MOTORCYCLE ACCIDENTldquo

tight and watched him take his time clearly tired from the week as he dissected delicate moves into the chimney I followed thankful I didnrsquot have to lead that terror show I imagined how insane and improbable it was that Peter Croft onsight free soloed the beast

With the last hard pitch done we were elated All the suffering would soon be over The months of training had paid off There were just a few more victory pitches and a long walk back to the car before we could cash in on beer and fish tacos at the Mobil station in Lee Vining

Our buddy Ken greeted us at the top with a smile He spent the day trying to figure out how to rappel in to take pictures but the upper 3rd- and 4th-class sections were chossy enough that he couldnrsquot find a solid anchor without raining rocks on our heads

ldquoLooks like we got to the top just in time for a stormrdquo I said nodding to dark clouds circling above

ldquoNah itrsquos been like this all dayrdquo Ken replied ldquoBut it hasnrsquot done

anything on this side of the valleyrdquo He told us to walk up the 50 yards to the summit proper so he could take our victory photo

Yards from the summit a loud buzzing sound resonated near Luke ldquoItrsquos these beetles that are around hererdquo Ken reassured uneasiness

in his voice ldquoIrsquove been hearing it all dayrdquoLuke pulled off his helmet and looked for a beetle inside His hair

was sticking on end face white eyes bulging ldquoI just felt a shock go through my spinerdquo he yelled as he made a mad

dash back down the talus We followed The buzzing was now almost deafening

ldquoDrop your gearrdquo Luke screamed as he threw his pack to the ground My arm hair stood tall as I frantically tried to undo my harness straps I tossed my pack under a boulder and made a run toward anything that looked like shelter just as it began to rain thunder echoing above

ldquoDammitrdquo I yelled over to the guys We were sheltered but stuck on the wrong side of the mountain with only 5th-class terrain below so wersquod have to return to the summit and drop off the other side to retreat Irsquod never been too concerned about lightning before having hiked around Flagstaff on the San Francisco peaks during monsoon season and having worked trails in the Yosemite high country This was different I could see lightning striking less than a mile away closing in fast

ldquoGet that camera away from merdquo I yelled at Ken afraid that the metal could attract electricity Cold rain hit us we begin to shiver During a short break in the rain we made a run for the top The buzzing grew more intense and my arm hair came back to life ldquoNo Go back downrdquo

With lightning and virga drawing closer we traversed the mountain in the rain looking for a shoulder to escape from I fell a few times on the summit talus and it was clear that all our options were too wet to negotiate A howling wind spat hail and pushed us relentlessly I considered trying the summit again but Ken saw it in my eyes and commanded me to hunker back down There was nothing to do but wait

[Opening Spread] Waiting out the storm bull [Facing Page] Tony Chang decends after climbing the SW face of Mount Conness

20 | Advocacy Advocacy | 21

My mind was racing angry and confused We sent four of our biggest dream routes but might not live to tell about it The irony Maybe we should have just stayed in Tahoe and gone fishing Live Your Dream More like Live Your Nightmare

It was 15 more minutes of misery shivering and fear before the storm broke This time the rain stopped We took the opportunity to make another run for the summitmdashno buzzing this time We scurried down the 3rd-class ledges and ran across the saddle toward our packs High fives and cheers all around We had survived the scariest half hour of our lives

The sun peeked out from the gaps in the clouds and something changed I realized that this is what we had come for To experience the intensity and the doubt To use all the skills we had learned from a decade of climbing and get another great epic in before heading back to the ldquoreal worldrdquo Perhaps it was never about climbing a handful of so-called classic peaks

We all love those bluebird days at the crag catching some sun and climbing splitter pitches but those arenrsquot the days you remember Itrsquos those times you had to bivy at 14000rsquo happy to be alive the next day Itrsquos those times when you canrsquot get out of bed because of the 20 hours of hiking and climbing you did the day before Itrsquos the epic stories you love to tell around the campfire but never actually want to relive This was one of those memories one we will never forget

TONY CHANG bull Bozeman MT

Tony Chang became a member of the AAC in 2013 and currently lives in Bozeman He is seeking his PhD in Ecology and Environmental Science while finding time to mountaineer in the Beartooths and Tetons

BETAbull More than $30000 availablebull Apply January 1 ndash March 1bull Winners announced 4ndash6 weeks after application period endsbull All climbing disciplines welcomebull Apply through your local regionbull Max grant amounts of $1000

All climbers have dreams Let us help you live yours The AAC Live Your Dream grant powered by The North Face is designed to help you the every-day adventurer take your abilities to the next level

LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT

americanalpinecluborgliveyourdream

[This Page Bottom] Tony Chang showing some grit bull [This Page Top] Tony Chang and Luke Zachmann tackling the last of Peter Croftrsquos ldquoBig FourrdquomdashMount Conness bull [Facing Page] Beer and fish tacos await

22 | Advocacy Advocacy | 23

MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS

POWERED BY

This is your Club These are your photos We are the AACWe are climbers stewards of the outdoors We are doers And what we do tends to be uncommonly photogenic Flip through for exposure to other AAC members in action doing what they love

Want to see your photos in next yearrsquos Guidebook to MembershipSend to photoamericanalpinecluborg

Indian Creek UT Bryan Cox fights for the chains on Anunnaki (511c) AAC member Niko Monteiro52 53

Bishop CA Jon Fait of Gibbon Slacklines representing at the 2013 Fall Highball Cragginrsquo Classic AAC staff member Jeff Deikis

Eastern Sierra CA Climb hard party harder AAC member Jeremy Dreier

MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS

POWERED BY

54 55

1 Stansbury Island UT Zac Robinson and Kenneth successfully descend from a

winter ascent No supplemental oxygen required AAC member Craig Armstrong

MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS

POWERED BY

2

3

54

1

2 Little Rock City TN Whitney Boland Tenessee Thong (V7) AAC member Dan

Brayack

3 North Woodstock NH No pressure Maryanna Saenko competes in a pull-up

competition at the 5th Annual VICE Festival AAC member Ian MacLellan

5 Yosemite National Park CA Dave Campbell and Yosemite NPS climbing ranger Ben Doyle

working hard to remove garbage from the Nose on El Capitan AAC member Cheyne Lempe

4 Bartlett NH Future rock-crushers gotta start somewhere 2013 Cragginrsquo

Classic AAC member Bryan Rafferty

60 61

TO MEMBERSHIPGUIDEBOOK

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB2014

For two years running David has art directed

and designed the American Alpine Clubrsquos

annual Guidebook to Membership a 100 page

archival quality publication In process he

has had the opportunity to work hand-

in-hand with some of the most reputable

photographers writers and companies

in the outdoor industry Supported in

advertising from Alpinist Adidas Five Ten

Black Diamond LOWA and Patagonia the

Guidebook to Membership sees an annual

print distribution of 30000 copies

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP

mojavecreativelabcom | 5

In celebration of the golden age of Yosemite climbing the American

Alpine Club hosted itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside some of the

greatest climbers of all time Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard

was the keynote speaker at the event attended by nearly 600

people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic Designer

David branded the entire event and all subsequent creative

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)

CHOUINARD

O U R P I O N E E R I N G S P I R I TYOSEMITE

T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E C L U B

PRESENTED BY

6 | mojavecreativelabcom

The American Alpine Club founded in 1902 is the premier

climbing organization in the United States With over 14000

members consistent support is key to its growth David

designed all Club mailers to increase organization renewal

rates With clear-cut calls to action inspiring graphics and

focused messaging the mailers have consistently proven highly

successful for the rapidly expanding organization

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER

AAC member Andrew Burr

o Please exclude my name from members-only mail offers from AAC Partnerso Please exclude my name from the online membership directory

YESmdashKEEP MY MEMBERSHIP ACTIVEI want to continue to receive AAC member benefitand keep supporting the climbing community

Auto Renew o Regular $70 o Junior $35 o Sr $45 o Joint $125o Regular $80 o Junior $45 (Under 29) o Sr $55 (Over 65) o Joint $135

Birthday (Required) ______________________________________________________o CanadaMexico add $30 for postage o Other foreign address add $40Irsquod like to support AAC Conservation Programs with a gifto $50 o $150 o $300 o $500 o Other __________________________Total Payment Amount $ ___________________Name as it appears on credit card _________________________________________CC ______________________________________________ Expiration __________Signature __________________________________________ CVV______________JOINT MEMBERSHIP DETAILS Only the Primary Member will receive annual publications and AAC mailings but both members have access to all other benefitsSecondary Member Name _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Email _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Birthday (Required) __________________________________________________

JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAMbull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membershipbull Never worry about your membership expiring

By checking one of the red boxes your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitation Automatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing communityMembers on Auto Renew are not eligible for current or future promotions

Visitamericanalpinecluborgrenew

Call303-384-0110 x110

MailCompleted renewal form

RENEW TODAYYour AAC Membership Expires [MEMBERSHIP EXPIRES]

Hi [INFORMAL]

This is your last mailing before your membership expires

Together we share a passion for climbing And as a member of the AAC yoursquore part of a tribe thatrsquos making a big difference We support each other with rescue benefits critical lodging facilities conservation projects advocacy grants discounts and more Without you none of this would be possible We depend on our dedicated members to accomplish more for our climbing community than we otherwise could alone Please continue to make a difference by renewing your membership today

Thanks for your support

Phil Powers Executive Director

TOGETHER WE ACCOMPLISH A LOT MORE

mojavecreativelabcom | 7

As a membership organization the American Alpine Club depends on

biannual campaigns aimed at significant increases in membership

As a joinrenewal insentive David designed a t-shirt and coinciding

phrase ldquoGet on the bus Wersquove got mountains to climbrdquo The t-shirt

prompted incredible feedback significantly increased brand profile

and saw the greatest single-month membership growth in the

112-year history of the Club

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT T-SHIRT CAMPAIGN

FREE T-SHIRT WITH MEMBERSHIP

For a limited time when you join the AAC community yoursquoll receive our new ldquoBus to Mountainsrdquo t-shirt for free Made with a soft polycotton blend this shirt inspires the start of an adventure Membership prices increase on October 1st but you can join the club at the current rate until November 1st t-shirt included

AAC Member Corey Rich

MailCompleted join form (includecredit card info or check)

Call303-384-0110 x110Mention code AAC-BUS

VisitamericanalpinecluborgjoinEnter promo code corresponding w t-shirt sizeAAC-BUS-XS AAC-BUS-S AAC-BUS-M AAC-BUS-LAAC-BUS-XL AAC-BUS-XXL

LIMITED TIME FREE T-SHIRT

[FULL NAME][ADDRESS 1][ADDRESS 2][CITY] [STATE] [ZIP CODE] [COUNTRY]

JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAM

bull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membership

bull Never worry about your membership expiringBy checking the box your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitationAutomatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing community

LIMITED TIME SPECIAL OFFERJoin the club by November 1st to save $5 and get a free t-shirt

DM_V2indd 1 9513 1214 PM

7000

9000

11000

13000

Members

bus t-shirt campaign

2012

2011

2010

2009

2013

8 | mojavecreativelabcom

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 2014

T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

2 0 1 4

[Front cover] Will it hold Marek Raganowicz

starts pitch 26 Bushido Great Trango Tower

(p297) Marcin Tomaszewski [This page]

Quinn Brett and Prairie Kearney in Greenland

The big towers above Baronet (left) and

Baron (right) (p182) John Dickey

T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

E x e c u t i v e E d i t o rDougald MacDonald

S E N I O R E D I T O RLindsay Gr i f f in

A s s i s ta n t e d i t o rErik Rieger

A r t D i r e c t o rErik Rieger

p u b l i c at i o n s i n t e r nMichiko Arai

C o n t r i b u t i n g e d i t o r sFrederick O Johnson Club Act iv i t ies

David Stevenson Book Reviews

David Wilkes In Memoriam

I l l u s t r at i o n s a n d m a p sJeremy Coll ins Jesse Crock Joe Iurato

Mike Clel land Anna Ri l ing

I n d e x e r sRalph Ferrara Eve Tal lman

T r a n s l at o r sPeter Jensen-Choi Zbysek Cesenek

Tamotsu Nakamura Henry Pickford S imone Sturm Ekater ina Vorotnikova X ia Zhongming

R e g i o n a l c o n ta c t sSteve Gruhn Alaska Drew Brayshaw Rapahel

Slawinski Canada Sevi Bohorquez Sergio Ramiacuterez Carrascal Peru Damien Gi ldea

Antarct ica Rolando Gar ibott i Marcelo Scanu Daniel Seel iger Argent inaChi le Rajesh Gadgi l Har ish Kapadia India El izabeth

Hawley Rodolphe Popier R ichard Sal isbury Nepal Tamotsu Nakamura Hiroshi Hagiwara Japanese cl imbs Peter Jensen-Choi Korean cl imbs Anna Piunova Russia Taj ik istan and

Kyrgyzstan X ia Zhongming China

O n l i n e e d i t o r sDoug Hal ler Chr is Harr ington Joel Peach

Tom Pr igg Cr is Valer io

A d v i s o r y b o a r dAndrew Bisharat Kel ly Cordes Damien Gi ldea

Col in Haley Mark Richey Freddie Wilk inson Emily St i f ler Wolfe

W I T H H E A R T F E LT T H A N K S T ODavid Boersma Claude Gardien Maro

Lablance Er ik Lambert Anna Piunova Tucker and al l AAJ donors and supporters

[ T h i s p a g e ] A p p ro a c h i n g t h e Doublets in East Rosebud Canyon Montana (p127) Ian Cavanaugh

[This page] Whit Magro on the first one-day free ascent of Jaded Lady Mt Hooker Wyoming (p132) John Dickey

2 0 1 4 Volume 56 Issue 88

C O N T E N T S1 2 A n n a p u r n a b y U e l i S t e c k amp Ya n n i c k G r a z i a n iTwo extraordinary ascents of the south face

2 2 N o w e a k s h i t b y s c o t t a d a m s o nA 10-year obsession with the Mooses Tooth

3 2 K h u n ya n g C h h i s h E a s t b y H a n s j ouml r g A u e rThe first ascent of a Karakoram giant

3 8 L e a r n i n g t o w a l k b y r a p h a e l s l a w i n s k iLessons from past expeditions equal success on K6 West

4 5 G a m l a n g r a z i b y A n d y T y s o nExploring northern Myanmarrsquos mysterious mountains

5 2 Ta l u n g b y m a r e k H o l e c e kA favorite partner a final summit

5 8 W i l d s p o r t b y J o n at h a n s i e g r i s tThe future of American rock climbing lies far from the highway

6 4 P u r g at i o n b y C h r i s w r i g h tExploration and intrigue in Nepal

7 2 M o n t e S a r m i e n t o b y C a m i l o R a d aAfter 57 years Tierra del Fuegorsquos spellbinding peak gets a second ascent

R E C O N [ u n e x p l o r e d amp o v e r l o o k e d ]

7 8 T o w e r s o f W i n d a n d I c e b y C a m i l o r a d a amp J a c k M i l l e rThe Cordillera de Sarmiento of southern Chile

9 0 T h e W h i t n e y M a s s i f b y D o u g R o b i n s o n A m y N e s s amp M y l e s M o s e rClassic routes hot new lines and a blank canvas for the future

W E T H A N K T H E F O L L O W I N G F O RT H E I R G E N E R O U S F I N A N C I A L S U P P O R T

Douglas Beal lRichard Blum

Yvon ChouinardAnonymous

Kevin Duncan amp Duncan Family Foundat ion

Ken Ehrhart

Clark Gerhardt JrTodd Hoffman

David KochMark Kroese

McKibbenMerner Family- Foundat ion

Peter Metcalf

AnonymousNY Sect ion AAC

Mark amp Teresa RicheyDavid Riggs

Steve SchwartzSteven Swenson amp Ann Dalton

Doug and Maggie Walker

G R E A T R A N G E S F E L L O W S H I P

$ 1 0 0 0 0 +

$ 5 0 0 0 - $ 9 9 9 9

$ 2 5 0 0 - $ 4 9 9 9

$ 1 0 0 0 - $ 2 4 9 9Robert Anderson

Larry ArthurWil l iam Atk inson

Gai l BatesCOL Christopher Bates

Gal i BehVaclav Benes

Gordon A Benner MDLaur ie Berl iner

Tanya Bradby amp Mart in SlovacekJohn Bragg

Wesley BrownPaul BrunnerWil l iam BurdDeirdre Byers

Edmund amp Betsy Cabot Foundat ion

Robert J CampbellPeter Carter

Jeffrey CohenDouglas Colwell

Kevin CooneyMatt amp Charlotte Culberson

Karen DaubertJoseph DavidsonTom DegenhardtStanley Dempsey

David DingmanJennifer Dow MD

Jeff DozierRichard Draves

Jesse DwyerCharles Ei lers

H Newcomb Eldredge

Stuart El l isonLee Elman

Denise ElmerTerrence Engl ish

Phi l ip ErardTimothy Forbes

James FrankJames Frush

James amp Franziska GarrettBi l l Givens

David GoeddelAnonymous

Wayne amp Cynthia Gr i f f inRichard Gr i f f i th

Scot Hi l lmanMarley amp Jennifer Hodgson

Richard E Hoffman MDRobert Hyman amp Deborah

AtwoodThomas JansonJohn Kascenska

Wil l iam Krause MDEl len Lapham

Leo LebonPaul Lego

Gerald LofthouseJamie LoganGai l Loveman

Chris LynchBrent Manning

Edward MatthewsJames McCarthy

Peter McGannHacksaw

Paul MorrowTed Morton

Amy ParadisWil l Phi l l ips

James Pinter-LuckeJohn Pope

Matthew PruisEugene RehfeldLouis Reichardt

Prof John ReppyAndrea Resnick

Ryan RichMichael Ri leyCarey RobertsJoel RobinsonJohn Rudolph

Stephen Scof ieldGeorge Shaw

Jay SmithGeorge N Smith

Brian SohnAllen Steck

Robert amp Jennifer StephensonSeth Switzer

Pat amp Jack TackleThomas Tapl inDavid Thoenen

Mart in J TorresquinteroJohn Tracy

Dieter Von HennigJames Whit takerTodd Winzenr iedJoseph Yannuzzi

Rob Ziegler

Warren AdelmanSteve BarrettGeorge Basch

Sherman Bul l MDThomas Burch

John CattoMike Coll ins

James Donin iJames amp Cheryl Duckworth

Jim EdwardsDan Emmett

Charlotte FoxMari lyn Geninatt i

Peter Sam Addis amp Gus GoldmanSyed HaiderRobert Hal lHelene Hi l l

Michael HodgesThomas Hornbein MD

Mark KassnerPhi l Lakin Jr

George Lowe I I IJeff Mart inAnonymous

Linda McMil lan

James Morr isseyMir iam Nelson amp Kinloch Earle

David OlsenCharles Peck

Marshal l PetersonCharles Sassara I I I

Howard SeboldAlan Spielberg

Bob StreetPaul Underwood

Theodore WeickerJohn (Jed) Wil l iamson

Keegan Young

Ansara Family Fund Yonsuk Derby

Charles Fle ischmanBruce Franks

Gerald Gal lwasSandy Hi l l

Louis Kasischke

George McCownAmy Meredith

Vanessa OrsquoBr ienWolf Riehle

Cody J SmithTravis Spi tzer

Wil l iam amp Barbra Straka

Theodore Stre ibertPeter Sul ick

Lawrence True amp Linda BrownRonald Ulr ich

The Estate of Paul Wiseman

In Memory of Charl ie Fowler amp Randy Grandstaff

Gordon A Benner MDRobert Branch

Yvon ChouinardChristopher Clarke

Dan CoxBi l l Cox

Phi l ip Erard

Jim FrushRyland Gardner

Stephen GeremiaWayne and Cynthia Gr i f f in

Richard Gr i f f i thDavid Harrah

Richard E Hoffman MDJohn KascenskaLouis Kasischke

Mike LewisDougald MacDonaldMary Ann MatthewsPeter McGann MD

Mona ReynoldsSamuel Si lverste in MD

Theodore Stre ibertTimothy Wil t

[This page] If yoursquore climbing Cerro Mariposa therersquos only one approach Will Stanhope a n d M a rc-A n d re Le c l e rc paddle out from the wall (p224) Matt Van Biene

F R I E N D S O F T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

mojavecreativelabcom | 9

In celebration of the worldrsquos greatest climber the American

Alpine Club is hosting itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside many

of the most influential people in the outdoor industry Reinhold

Messner Chouinard will keynote the NYC event to be attended

by nearly 600 people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic

Designer David has branded the entire event

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)

10 | mojavecreativelabcom

Outdoor Retailer is the premiere trade show of outdoor industry

brands throughout the world held annually in Salt Lake City

Utah As the American Alpine Clubrsquos Graphic Designer David

created many different pieces of creative for the the event in

partnership with Adidas and Petzl On display at the event were

Davidrsquos work on brochures magazines tradeshow signage

posters gift cards and more

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB - ADIDASPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER

SHOW SPECIALJOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR AND GET AN

ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD

a Redstone CO Carlo Traversi

JOIN AT ADIDASBOOTH 1009

AAC_ORADIDASPOSTER_FINAL_070914indd 1 71514 557 PM

Canrsquot make it to the booth Join the Club online at the pro ratemdashoffer valid Aug amp Sept only

Visit americanalpinecluborgjoin choose regular membership category amp enter code ORSM14AAC

Good for $25 off regular membership price ($80)

Expires 93014

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB VIP $25 OFF

AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 2 71714 512 PM

STOP BY THE ADIDAS OUTDOOR BOOTH (1009) AND JOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR ANDGET AN ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD

AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 1 71714 512 PM

mojavecreativelabcom | 11

Mojave Creative Lab is incredibly invested in supporting non-profit

organizations aligned with our beliefs and interests Thatrsquos why we

work pro-bono with Paradox Sports PS is a non-profit committed

to providing inspiration opportunities and specialized adaptive

equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in

human-powered sports Mojave Creative Lab was founded upon

creativity and the love of outdoors Offering our services for free to

an organization with a similar mission was a no-brainer

BRAND PARADOX SPORTSPROJECT POSTCARD DESIGN

ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM

The Paradox Sports Adaptive Climbing Curriculum includes a comprehensive manual clinic and equipment package The curriculum provides qualified instruction on how to provide a rewarding climbing experience for persons with a wide array of physical disabilities while developing inclusive supportive communities for adaptive sport and

emphasizes risk management The curriculum explains the specifics for creating and curating this program at climbing gyms universities adaptive sports agencies outdoor clubs hospitals and community rec programs with a focus on physical adaptation with paralysis amputation deafnessblindness neurological disorders PTSD and TBI

PARADOX SPORTS1911 11th St bull Suite 201 bull Boulder CO 80302 bull (720) 638-5593 bull paradoxsportsorg

paradoxsportsorgcausesparadox-curriculum

ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM

12 | mojavecreativelabcom

Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber Jeff

Lowe in his final act For the past ten years Jeff has been battling

an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS Mojave is

proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for

Jeffrsquorsquos much anticipated film Metanoia premeiring this November

at Banff Mountain Film Festival MCL is a proud sponsor of the film

BRAND JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATIONPROJECT TRIBUTE POSTER

mojavecreativelabcom | 13

Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of

its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the

event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would

garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While

working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was

featured on USA Today and many other online publications

BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC

VIEW ONLINE

14 | mojavecreativelabcom

Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the

Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big

Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media

presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed

a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook

page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative

and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew

substantially over the course of the contest

BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 15

Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new

layering system By combining product placement and action

photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience

and simultaniously communicated the new product line

BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD

copy Tyler Stableford Photography

MOUNTAIN

S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk

Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail

The Result

Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip

16 | mojavecreativelabcom

In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site

ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear

review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly

and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear

review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or

allows for such user-interaction

BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 17

At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics

to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This

original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial

license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by

the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma

mojavecreativelabcom

BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

desert dweller

W E A RM J AV E

18 | mojavecreativelabcom

Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom

Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma

CONTACT

mojavecreativelabcom

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

mojavecreativelabcom | 19

Page 2: Mojave Creative Lab

Since 2009 Mojave Creative Lab has been creating innovative

designs in scientific method to ensure yoursquore stoked and your

market is moved

Mojave is a full service creative priding itself in unmatched

design incredible service and timely turn-arounds David has

art directed and designed publications with distribution well

over 50000 has had his work published on USA Today and has

branded events featuring the most notable people and companies

in the outdoor industry His work ranges from simple digital

campaigns to complex print publications tiny web ads to large

scale tradeshow graphics On any given day Mojave Creative Lab

produces advertising material websites email and social media

campaigns infographics branding material event collateral

tradeshow signage print collateral and more Good design

happens and is necessary everywhere For a quote contact David

at dboersmamojavecreativelabcom

[This page] David and his wife Tara drying off after a surf session Mondo Beach CA Gretchen Davis [Cover] Mountain Khakis ambassador Eric Bouwman and Patagonia Environmental Programs Associate Paul Hendricks slog up to base camp Uneva Pass CO David Boersma

Good design lands somewhere between the abstract and concrete worlds of art and science

ABOUT MOJAVE

PRINT DIGITAL

magazine layout websites

posters social

mailers e-newsletters

invitations presentations

tradeshow and loads more

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

mojavecreativelabcom | 1

David Boersma Art Director at Mojave Creative Lab has worked

on behalf of a multitude brands particularly in the outdoor and

travel industries This includes world-renowned brands Merrellreg

Otterboxreg Incasereg KbullSWISSreg REIreg Levirsquosreg New Era Capreg

Airwalkreg Obermeyerreg Filsonreg Cushereg Palladiumreg Above

The Rimreg Skiscom The American Alpine Club Travaasareg

Experiential Resorts Park Hyatt Beaver Creekreg The Brown

Palace Hotel amp Spareg and many more

When not laying out designs or scouring the world for the

latest trends like every other Coloradoan hersquos typically found

tucked away somewhere in the Rocky Mountains backpacking

snowboarding or climbing with his wife and two dogs cooler in

tow His daily routine didnrsquot always consist of of a low-key climb

and craft beer Prior to moving to Colorado David hiked much

of the Appalachian Trail and motorcycled the length of the Andes

Mountains throughout South America While now settled and

married he still tries to live his life in ways that continue to look

beyond the familiar

If yoursquod like to explore working with David contact him at

dboersmamojavecreativelabcom

ABOUT THE DAVID

[This page Top] David and his wife at his hometownrsquos first annual Pride Festival Holland MI [This page Bottom Left] School children Tanzania David Boersma [This page Bottom Right] Boy

fishing Zanzibar David Boersma [Facing Page] David leaving Machu Picchu Ollantaytambo Peru

My creative inspiration is the result of experiencing a world much bigger than myself

ldquo ldquo

2 | mojavecreativelabcom

mojavecreativelabcom | 3

CLIENTS

only a small selection of clients that Art Director David Boersma has done design work for

TRAVAASA EXPERIENTIAL RESORTS

NEW ERA CAP

EVO ROCK + FITNESS

KbullSWISS

INCASE

FILSON

REI

MERRELLSKISCOM

OTTERBOX

MOONLIGHT BASIN

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB

JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATION

AMERICAN MOUNTAINEERING MUSEUM

PARADOX SPORTS

OBERMEYER

AIRWALK

One last fall crag day at Jurassic Park Colorado David Boersma

4 | mojavecreativelabcom

VIEW ONLINE

POURING DOWN

RISING UP

TWe had already climbed Red Dihedral on The Incredible

Hulk the Harding Route on Keeler Needle and Dark Star on

Temple Crag I had dreamed about climbing these routes

since my infancy as a rock climber And this was the last of

Peter Croftrsquos ldquoBig FourrdquomdashMount Conness As we dropped

into one of the gullies to reach the base its sheer 1200rsquo

southwest face bathed us in a shadow of intimidation

And there was one more reason Conness was last on

our ticklist

ldquoI guess we found the routerdquo I said to Luke pointing at

the Goodrich Memorial

ldquoLetrsquos just get it done withrdquo

In 1959 after Warren Hardingrsquos landmark ascent of

the Nose the southwest face of Mount Conness was a

logical step to test the skills of Yosemite big-wall climbers

If siege tactics could work on El Capitan why not this

overhanging alpine face Don Goodrich and Krehe Ritter a

by Tony Chang photos by Ken Etzel

18 | Advocacy Advocacy | 19

to the challenge On his maiden attempt of the wall Goodrich pulled a huge block off the second pitch Although he jumped free when the block pulled outward it rolled over his body and crushed his skull on the wall

A few months later Harding Herb Swedlund and Glen Denny made their own bid for the first ascent With Goodrichrsquos blood still staining the wall they made the two-day climb using the standard Harding method lots of pitons drilled bolts and wine

We just wanted to get our tired bodies to the top The first pitch greeted us with a wet mess turning our 59 into something of a 510+ insecure slab But Luke the technician took it down with a smile

If you met him on the street yoursquod think of Luke as your standard white-collar desk jockey He works as a research scientist for a landscape conservation NGO in Truckee California However under his office-nerd facade is a serious competitor and athlete Having ticked 21 desert towers and 33 technical canyons across Utah and Arizona as well as multiple

3000rsquo+ climbing days in the Sierra Luke is no stranger to adventure and suffering We met four years ago during my third year of graduate school I had moved to Flagstaff Arizona primarily for school but also for the great access to local climbing Learning to climb in California my most memorable major climbing experiences had been winter ascents of peaks in the Sierra Given our collective climbing backgrounds Luke and I made a good match for a variety of objectives

We also shared a mutual motivation to be more like our climbing hero Peter Croft so when I saw the Live Your Dream request for proposals I approached Luke with the idea of climbing the Big Four Somehow we landed the grant and there we were on a massive alpine face our bodies tired and broken after so many days of technical climbing above 10000 feet

Pitch 2 is the technical crux Luke offered to take this one on the condition that I take the difficult off-width pitch higher up Deal It was a wild bit of rock climbingmdashone of those pitches that keeps you engaged physically and mentally the whole time I heard Luke scream through the crux as he disappeared over a roof

Blistering sun hit me at 11 am as I cruised up hand jams and thrutched into the offwidth large crystals chewing through my skin Halfway up I placed my only 6 Camalot The offwidth continued but toned down a bit to 58 a grade on which Irsquom considerably more comfortable Unfortunately the only protection I had was a green Big Bro and some janky bolts Warren Harding put up half a century ago I placed the Big Bro after 20 feet but accidentally kicked it out after climbing above it I heard it twist and fall all the way down to my last cam Awesome The remaining offwidth although semi-secure was not easy moving I groveled the last 25 feet in fear and exhaustion to reach the belay blood soaking through the legs of my pants I looked like I had been in a motorcycle accident

Luke rocketed up reminding me that I was probably looking at an 80-foot whipper if I didnrsquot make it He led the last cruxmdashthe most intimidating part of the routemdasha steep face with an exposed step-across move into a chimney When Luke got there his last piece was a ways to his left with a nasty pendulum into a wall if he blew it I kept the belay

DREAMLIVE YOUR

THE AAC GRANT FOR THE EVERY-DAY ADVENTURER

powered by

I GROVELED THE LAST 25 FEET IN FEAR AND EXHAUSTION TO REACH THE BELAY BLOOD SOAKING THROUGH THE LEGS OF MY PANTS I LOOKED LIKE I HAD BEEN IN A

MOTORCYCLE ACCIDENTldquo

tight and watched him take his time clearly tired from the week as he dissected delicate moves into the chimney I followed thankful I didnrsquot have to lead that terror show I imagined how insane and improbable it was that Peter Croft onsight free soloed the beast

With the last hard pitch done we were elated All the suffering would soon be over The months of training had paid off There were just a few more victory pitches and a long walk back to the car before we could cash in on beer and fish tacos at the Mobil station in Lee Vining

Our buddy Ken greeted us at the top with a smile He spent the day trying to figure out how to rappel in to take pictures but the upper 3rd- and 4th-class sections were chossy enough that he couldnrsquot find a solid anchor without raining rocks on our heads

ldquoLooks like we got to the top just in time for a stormrdquo I said nodding to dark clouds circling above

ldquoNah itrsquos been like this all dayrdquo Ken replied ldquoBut it hasnrsquot done

anything on this side of the valleyrdquo He told us to walk up the 50 yards to the summit proper so he could take our victory photo

Yards from the summit a loud buzzing sound resonated near Luke ldquoItrsquos these beetles that are around hererdquo Ken reassured uneasiness

in his voice ldquoIrsquove been hearing it all dayrdquoLuke pulled off his helmet and looked for a beetle inside His hair

was sticking on end face white eyes bulging ldquoI just felt a shock go through my spinerdquo he yelled as he made a mad

dash back down the talus We followed The buzzing was now almost deafening

ldquoDrop your gearrdquo Luke screamed as he threw his pack to the ground My arm hair stood tall as I frantically tried to undo my harness straps I tossed my pack under a boulder and made a run toward anything that looked like shelter just as it began to rain thunder echoing above

ldquoDammitrdquo I yelled over to the guys We were sheltered but stuck on the wrong side of the mountain with only 5th-class terrain below so wersquod have to return to the summit and drop off the other side to retreat Irsquod never been too concerned about lightning before having hiked around Flagstaff on the San Francisco peaks during monsoon season and having worked trails in the Yosemite high country This was different I could see lightning striking less than a mile away closing in fast

ldquoGet that camera away from merdquo I yelled at Ken afraid that the metal could attract electricity Cold rain hit us we begin to shiver During a short break in the rain we made a run for the top The buzzing grew more intense and my arm hair came back to life ldquoNo Go back downrdquo

With lightning and virga drawing closer we traversed the mountain in the rain looking for a shoulder to escape from I fell a few times on the summit talus and it was clear that all our options were too wet to negotiate A howling wind spat hail and pushed us relentlessly I considered trying the summit again but Ken saw it in my eyes and commanded me to hunker back down There was nothing to do but wait

[Opening Spread] Waiting out the storm bull [Facing Page] Tony Chang decends after climbing the SW face of Mount Conness

20 | Advocacy Advocacy | 21

My mind was racing angry and confused We sent four of our biggest dream routes but might not live to tell about it The irony Maybe we should have just stayed in Tahoe and gone fishing Live Your Dream More like Live Your Nightmare

It was 15 more minutes of misery shivering and fear before the storm broke This time the rain stopped We took the opportunity to make another run for the summitmdashno buzzing this time We scurried down the 3rd-class ledges and ran across the saddle toward our packs High fives and cheers all around We had survived the scariest half hour of our lives

The sun peeked out from the gaps in the clouds and something changed I realized that this is what we had come for To experience the intensity and the doubt To use all the skills we had learned from a decade of climbing and get another great epic in before heading back to the ldquoreal worldrdquo Perhaps it was never about climbing a handful of so-called classic peaks

We all love those bluebird days at the crag catching some sun and climbing splitter pitches but those arenrsquot the days you remember Itrsquos those times you had to bivy at 14000rsquo happy to be alive the next day Itrsquos those times when you canrsquot get out of bed because of the 20 hours of hiking and climbing you did the day before Itrsquos the epic stories you love to tell around the campfire but never actually want to relive This was one of those memories one we will never forget

TONY CHANG bull Bozeman MT

Tony Chang became a member of the AAC in 2013 and currently lives in Bozeman He is seeking his PhD in Ecology and Environmental Science while finding time to mountaineer in the Beartooths and Tetons

BETAbull More than $30000 availablebull Apply January 1 ndash March 1bull Winners announced 4ndash6 weeks after application period endsbull All climbing disciplines welcomebull Apply through your local regionbull Max grant amounts of $1000

All climbers have dreams Let us help you live yours The AAC Live Your Dream grant powered by The North Face is designed to help you the every-day adventurer take your abilities to the next level

LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT

americanalpinecluborgliveyourdream

[This Page Bottom] Tony Chang showing some grit bull [This Page Top] Tony Chang and Luke Zachmann tackling the last of Peter Croftrsquos ldquoBig FourrdquomdashMount Conness bull [Facing Page] Beer and fish tacos await

22 | Advocacy Advocacy | 23

MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS

POWERED BY

This is your Club These are your photos We are the AACWe are climbers stewards of the outdoors We are doers And what we do tends to be uncommonly photogenic Flip through for exposure to other AAC members in action doing what they love

Want to see your photos in next yearrsquos Guidebook to MembershipSend to photoamericanalpinecluborg

Indian Creek UT Bryan Cox fights for the chains on Anunnaki (511c) AAC member Niko Monteiro52 53

Bishop CA Jon Fait of Gibbon Slacklines representing at the 2013 Fall Highball Cragginrsquo Classic AAC staff member Jeff Deikis

Eastern Sierra CA Climb hard party harder AAC member Jeremy Dreier

MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS

POWERED BY

54 55

1 Stansbury Island UT Zac Robinson and Kenneth successfully descend from a

winter ascent No supplemental oxygen required AAC member Craig Armstrong

MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS

POWERED BY

2

3

54

1

2 Little Rock City TN Whitney Boland Tenessee Thong (V7) AAC member Dan

Brayack

3 North Woodstock NH No pressure Maryanna Saenko competes in a pull-up

competition at the 5th Annual VICE Festival AAC member Ian MacLellan

5 Yosemite National Park CA Dave Campbell and Yosemite NPS climbing ranger Ben Doyle

working hard to remove garbage from the Nose on El Capitan AAC member Cheyne Lempe

4 Bartlett NH Future rock-crushers gotta start somewhere 2013 Cragginrsquo

Classic AAC member Bryan Rafferty

60 61

TO MEMBERSHIPGUIDEBOOK

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB2014

For two years running David has art directed

and designed the American Alpine Clubrsquos

annual Guidebook to Membership a 100 page

archival quality publication In process he

has had the opportunity to work hand-

in-hand with some of the most reputable

photographers writers and companies

in the outdoor industry Supported in

advertising from Alpinist Adidas Five Ten

Black Diamond LOWA and Patagonia the

Guidebook to Membership sees an annual

print distribution of 30000 copies

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP

mojavecreativelabcom | 5

In celebration of the golden age of Yosemite climbing the American

Alpine Club hosted itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside some of the

greatest climbers of all time Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard

was the keynote speaker at the event attended by nearly 600

people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic Designer

David branded the entire event and all subsequent creative

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)

CHOUINARD

O U R P I O N E E R I N G S P I R I TYOSEMITE

T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E C L U B

PRESENTED BY

6 | mojavecreativelabcom

The American Alpine Club founded in 1902 is the premier

climbing organization in the United States With over 14000

members consistent support is key to its growth David

designed all Club mailers to increase organization renewal

rates With clear-cut calls to action inspiring graphics and

focused messaging the mailers have consistently proven highly

successful for the rapidly expanding organization

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER

AAC member Andrew Burr

o Please exclude my name from members-only mail offers from AAC Partnerso Please exclude my name from the online membership directory

YESmdashKEEP MY MEMBERSHIP ACTIVEI want to continue to receive AAC member benefitand keep supporting the climbing community

Auto Renew o Regular $70 o Junior $35 o Sr $45 o Joint $125o Regular $80 o Junior $45 (Under 29) o Sr $55 (Over 65) o Joint $135

Birthday (Required) ______________________________________________________o CanadaMexico add $30 for postage o Other foreign address add $40Irsquod like to support AAC Conservation Programs with a gifto $50 o $150 o $300 o $500 o Other __________________________Total Payment Amount $ ___________________Name as it appears on credit card _________________________________________CC ______________________________________________ Expiration __________Signature __________________________________________ CVV______________JOINT MEMBERSHIP DETAILS Only the Primary Member will receive annual publications and AAC mailings but both members have access to all other benefitsSecondary Member Name _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Email _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Birthday (Required) __________________________________________________

JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAMbull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membershipbull Never worry about your membership expiring

By checking one of the red boxes your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitation Automatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing communityMembers on Auto Renew are not eligible for current or future promotions

Visitamericanalpinecluborgrenew

Call303-384-0110 x110

MailCompleted renewal form

RENEW TODAYYour AAC Membership Expires [MEMBERSHIP EXPIRES]

Hi [INFORMAL]

This is your last mailing before your membership expires

Together we share a passion for climbing And as a member of the AAC yoursquore part of a tribe thatrsquos making a big difference We support each other with rescue benefits critical lodging facilities conservation projects advocacy grants discounts and more Without you none of this would be possible We depend on our dedicated members to accomplish more for our climbing community than we otherwise could alone Please continue to make a difference by renewing your membership today

Thanks for your support

Phil Powers Executive Director

TOGETHER WE ACCOMPLISH A LOT MORE

mojavecreativelabcom | 7

As a membership organization the American Alpine Club depends on

biannual campaigns aimed at significant increases in membership

As a joinrenewal insentive David designed a t-shirt and coinciding

phrase ldquoGet on the bus Wersquove got mountains to climbrdquo The t-shirt

prompted incredible feedback significantly increased brand profile

and saw the greatest single-month membership growth in the

112-year history of the Club

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT T-SHIRT CAMPAIGN

FREE T-SHIRT WITH MEMBERSHIP

For a limited time when you join the AAC community yoursquoll receive our new ldquoBus to Mountainsrdquo t-shirt for free Made with a soft polycotton blend this shirt inspires the start of an adventure Membership prices increase on October 1st but you can join the club at the current rate until November 1st t-shirt included

AAC Member Corey Rich

MailCompleted join form (includecredit card info or check)

Call303-384-0110 x110Mention code AAC-BUS

VisitamericanalpinecluborgjoinEnter promo code corresponding w t-shirt sizeAAC-BUS-XS AAC-BUS-S AAC-BUS-M AAC-BUS-LAAC-BUS-XL AAC-BUS-XXL

LIMITED TIME FREE T-SHIRT

[FULL NAME][ADDRESS 1][ADDRESS 2][CITY] [STATE] [ZIP CODE] [COUNTRY]

JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAM

bull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membership

bull Never worry about your membership expiringBy checking the box your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitationAutomatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing community

LIMITED TIME SPECIAL OFFERJoin the club by November 1st to save $5 and get a free t-shirt

DM_V2indd 1 9513 1214 PM

7000

9000

11000

13000

Members

bus t-shirt campaign

2012

2011

2010

2009

2013

8 | mojavecreativelabcom

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 2014

T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

2 0 1 4

[Front cover] Will it hold Marek Raganowicz

starts pitch 26 Bushido Great Trango Tower

(p297) Marcin Tomaszewski [This page]

Quinn Brett and Prairie Kearney in Greenland

The big towers above Baronet (left) and

Baron (right) (p182) John Dickey

T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

E x e c u t i v e E d i t o rDougald MacDonald

S E N I O R E D I T O RLindsay Gr i f f in

A s s i s ta n t e d i t o rErik Rieger

A r t D i r e c t o rErik Rieger

p u b l i c at i o n s i n t e r nMichiko Arai

C o n t r i b u t i n g e d i t o r sFrederick O Johnson Club Act iv i t ies

David Stevenson Book Reviews

David Wilkes In Memoriam

I l l u s t r at i o n s a n d m a p sJeremy Coll ins Jesse Crock Joe Iurato

Mike Clel land Anna Ri l ing

I n d e x e r sRalph Ferrara Eve Tal lman

T r a n s l at o r sPeter Jensen-Choi Zbysek Cesenek

Tamotsu Nakamura Henry Pickford S imone Sturm Ekater ina Vorotnikova X ia Zhongming

R e g i o n a l c o n ta c t sSteve Gruhn Alaska Drew Brayshaw Rapahel

Slawinski Canada Sevi Bohorquez Sergio Ramiacuterez Carrascal Peru Damien Gi ldea

Antarct ica Rolando Gar ibott i Marcelo Scanu Daniel Seel iger Argent inaChi le Rajesh Gadgi l Har ish Kapadia India El izabeth

Hawley Rodolphe Popier R ichard Sal isbury Nepal Tamotsu Nakamura Hiroshi Hagiwara Japanese cl imbs Peter Jensen-Choi Korean cl imbs Anna Piunova Russia Taj ik istan and

Kyrgyzstan X ia Zhongming China

O n l i n e e d i t o r sDoug Hal ler Chr is Harr ington Joel Peach

Tom Pr igg Cr is Valer io

A d v i s o r y b o a r dAndrew Bisharat Kel ly Cordes Damien Gi ldea

Col in Haley Mark Richey Freddie Wilk inson Emily St i f ler Wolfe

W I T H H E A R T F E LT T H A N K S T ODavid Boersma Claude Gardien Maro

Lablance Er ik Lambert Anna Piunova Tucker and al l AAJ donors and supporters

[ T h i s p a g e ] A p p ro a c h i n g t h e Doublets in East Rosebud Canyon Montana (p127) Ian Cavanaugh

[This page] Whit Magro on the first one-day free ascent of Jaded Lady Mt Hooker Wyoming (p132) John Dickey

2 0 1 4 Volume 56 Issue 88

C O N T E N T S1 2 A n n a p u r n a b y U e l i S t e c k amp Ya n n i c k G r a z i a n iTwo extraordinary ascents of the south face

2 2 N o w e a k s h i t b y s c o t t a d a m s o nA 10-year obsession with the Mooses Tooth

3 2 K h u n ya n g C h h i s h E a s t b y H a n s j ouml r g A u e rThe first ascent of a Karakoram giant

3 8 L e a r n i n g t o w a l k b y r a p h a e l s l a w i n s k iLessons from past expeditions equal success on K6 West

4 5 G a m l a n g r a z i b y A n d y T y s o nExploring northern Myanmarrsquos mysterious mountains

5 2 Ta l u n g b y m a r e k H o l e c e kA favorite partner a final summit

5 8 W i l d s p o r t b y J o n at h a n s i e g r i s tThe future of American rock climbing lies far from the highway

6 4 P u r g at i o n b y C h r i s w r i g h tExploration and intrigue in Nepal

7 2 M o n t e S a r m i e n t o b y C a m i l o R a d aAfter 57 years Tierra del Fuegorsquos spellbinding peak gets a second ascent

R E C O N [ u n e x p l o r e d amp o v e r l o o k e d ]

7 8 T o w e r s o f W i n d a n d I c e b y C a m i l o r a d a amp J a c k M i l l e rThe Cordillera de Sarmiento of southern Chile

9 0 T h e W h i t n e y M a s s i f b y D o u g R o b i n s o n A m y N e s s amp M y l e s M o s e rClassic routes hot new lines and a blank canvas for the future

W E T H A N K T H E F O L L O W I N G F O RT H E I R G E N E R O U S F I N A N C I A L S U P P O R T

Douglas Beal lRichard Blum

Yvon ChouinardAnonymous

Kevin Duncan amp Duncan Family Foundat ion

Ken Ehrhart

Clark Gerhardt JrTodd Hoffman

David KochMark Kroese

McKibbenMerner Family- Foundat ion

Peter Metcalf

AnonymousNY Sect ion AAC

Mark amp Teresa RicheyDavid Riggs

Steve SchwartzSteven Swenson amp Ann Dalton

Doug and Maggie Walker

G R E A T R A N G E S F E L L O W S H I P

$ 1 0 0 0 0 +

$ 5 0 0 0 - $ 9 9 9 9

$ 2 5 0 0 - $ 4 9 9 9

$ 1 0 0 0 - $ 2 4 9 9Robert Anderson

Larry ArthurWil l iam Atk inson

Gai l BatesCOL Christopher Bates

Gal i BehVaclav Benes

Gordon A Benner MDLaur ie Berl iner

Tanya Bradby amp Mart in SlovacekJohn Bragg

Wesley BrownPaul BrunnerWil l iam BurdDeirdre Byers

Edmund amp Betsy Cabot Foundat ion

Robert J CampbellPeter Carter

Jeffrey CohenDouglas Colwell

Kevin CooneyMatt amp Charlotte Culberson

Karen DaubertJoseph DavidsonTom DegenhardtStanley Dempsey

David DingmanJennifer Dow MD

Jeff DozierRichard Draves

Jesse DwyerCharles Ei lers

H Newcomb Eldredge

Stuart El l isonLee Elman

Denise ElmerTerrence Engl ish

Phi l ip ErardTimothy Forbes

James FrankJames Frush

James amp Franziska GarrettBi l l Givens

David GoeddelAnonymous

Wayne amp Cynthia Gr i f f inRichard Gr i f f i th

Scot Hi l lmanMarley amp Jennifer Hodgson

Richard E Hoffman MDRobert Hyman amp Deborah

AtwoodThomas JansonJohn Kascenska

Wil l iam Krause MDEl len Lapham

Leo LebonPaul Lego

Gerald LofthouseJamie LoganGai l Loveman

Chris LynchBrent Manning

Edward MatthewsJames McCarthy

Peter McGannHacksaw

Paul MorrowTed Morton

Amy ParadisWil l Phi l l ips

James Pinter-LuckeJohn Pope

Matthew PruisEugene RehfeldLouis Reichardt

Prof John ReppyAndrea Resnick

Ryan RichMichael Ri leyCarey RobertsJoel RobinsonJohn Rudolph

Stephen Scof ieldGeorge Shaw

Jay SmithGeorge N Smith

Brian SohnAllen Steck

Robert amp Jennifer StephensonSeth Switzer

Pat amp Jack TackleThomas Tapl inDavid Thoenen

Mart in J TorresquinteroJohn Tracy

Dieter Von HennigJames Whit takerTodd Winzenr iedJoseph Yannuzzi

Rob Ziegler

Warren AdelmanSteve BarrettGeorge Basch

Sherman Bul l MDThomas Burch

John CattoMike Coll ins

James Donin iJames amp Cheryl Duckworth

Jim EdwardsDan Emmett

Charlotte FoxMari lyn Geninatt i

Peter Sam Addis amp Gus GoldmanSyed HaiderRobert Hal lHelene Hi l l

Michael HodgesThomas Hornbein MD

Mark KassnerPhi l Lakin Jr

George Lowe I I IJeff Mart inAnonymous

Linda McMil lan

James Morr isseyMir iam Nelson amp Kinloch Earle

David OlsenCharles Peck

Marshal l PetersonCharles Sassara I I I

Howard SeboldAlan Spielberg

Bob StreetPaul Underwood

Theodore WeickerJohn (Jed) Wil l iamson

Keegan Young

Ansara Family Fund Yonsuk Derby

Charles Fle ischmanBruce Franks

Gerald Gal lwasSandy Hi l l

Louis Kasischke

George McCownAmy Meredith

Vanessa OrsquoBr ienWolf Riehle

Cody J SmithTravis Spi tzer

Wil l iam amp Barbra Straka

Theodore Stre ibertPeter Sul ick

Lawrence True amp Linda BrownRonald Ulr ich

The Estate of Paul Wiseman

In Memory of Charl ie Fowler amp Randy Grandstaff

Gordon A Benner MDRobert Branch

Yvon ChouinardChristopher Clarke

Dan CoxBi l l Cox

Phi l ip Erard

Jim FrushRyland Gardner

Stephen GeremiaWayne and Cynthia Gr i f f in

Richard Gr i f f i thDavid Harrah

Richard E Hoffman MDJohn KascenskaLouis Kasischke

Mike LewisDougald MacDonaldMary Ann MatthewsPeter McGann MD

Mona ReynoldsSamuel Si lverste in MD

Theodore Stre ibertTimothy Wil t

[This page] If yoursquore climbing Cerro Mariposa therersquos only one approach Will Stanhope a n d M a rc-A n d re Le c l e rc paddle out from the wall (p224) Matt Van Biene

F R I E N D S O F T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

mojavecreativelabcom | 9

In celebration of the worldrsquos greatest climber the American

Alpine Club is hosting itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside many

of the most influential people in the outdoor industry Reinhold

Messner Chouinard will keynote the NYC event to be attended

by nearly 600 people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic

Designer David has branded the entire event

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)

10 | mojavecreativelabcom

Outdoor Retailer is the premiere trade show of outdoor industry

brands throughout the world held annually in Salt Lake City

Utah As the American Alpine Clubrsquos Graphic Designer David

created many different pieces of creative for the the event in

partnership with Adidas and Petzl On display at the event were

Davidrsquos work on brochures magazines tradeshow signage

posters gift cards and more

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB - ADIDASPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER

SHOW SPECIALJOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR AND GET AN

ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD

a Redstone CO Carlo Traversi

JOIN AT ADIDASBOOTH 1009

AAC_ORADIDASPOSTER_FINAL_070914indd 1 71514 557 PM

Canrsquot make it to the booth Join the Club online at the pro ratemdashoffer valid Aug amp Sept only

Visit americanalpinecluborgjoin choose regular membership category amp enter code ORSM14AAC

Good for $25 off regular membership price ($80)

Expires 93014

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB VIP $25 OFF

AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 2 71714 512 PM

STOP BY THE ADIDAS OUTDOOR BOOTH (1009) AND JOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR ANDGET AN ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD

AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 1 71714 512 PM

mojavecreativelabcom | 11

Mojave Creative Lab is incredibly invested in supporting non-profit

organizations aligned with our beliefs and interests Thatrsquos why we

work pro-bono with Paradox Sports PS is a non-profit committed

to providing inspiration opportunities and specialized adaptive

equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in

human-powered sports Mojave Creative Lab was founded upon

creativity and the love of outdoors Offering our services for free to

an organization with a similar mission was a no-brainer

BRAND PARADOX SPORTSPROJECT POSTCARD DESIGN

ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM

The Paradox Sports Adaptive Climbing Curriculum includes a comprehensive manual clinic and equipment package The curriculum provides qualified instruction on how to provide a rewarding climbing experience for persons with a wide array of physical disabilities while developing inclusive supportive communities for adaptive sport and

emphasizes risk management The curriculum explains the specifics for creating and curating this program at climbing gyms universities adaptive sports agencies outdoor clubs hospitals and community rec programs with a focus on physical adaptation with paralysis amputation deafnessblindness neurological disorders PTSD and TBI

PARADOX SPORTS1911 11th St bull Suite 201 bull Boulder CO 80302 bull (720) 638-5593 bull paradoxsportsorg

paradoxsportsorgcausesparadox-curriculum

ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM

12 | mojavecreativelabcom

Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber Jeff

Lowe in his final act For the past ten years Jeff has been battling

an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS Mojave is

proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for

Jeffrsquorsquos much anticipated film Metanoia premeiring this November

at Banff Mountain Film Festival MCL is a proud sponsor of the film

BRAND JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATIONPROJECT TRIBUTE POSTER

mojavecreativelabcom | 13

Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of

its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the

event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would

garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While

working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was

featured on USA Today and many other online publications

BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC

VIEW ONLINE

14 | mojavecreativelabcom

Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the

Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big

Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media

presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed

a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook

page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative

and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew

substantially over the course of the contest

BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 15

Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new

layering system By combining product placement and action

photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience

and simultaniously communicated the new product line

BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD

copy Tyler Stableford Photography

MOUNTAIN

S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk

Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail

The Result

Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip

16 | mojavecreativelabcom

In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site

ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear

review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly

and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear

review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or

allows for such user-interaction

BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 17

At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics

to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This

original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial

license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by

the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma

mojavecreativelabcom

BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

desert dweller

W E A RM J AV E

18 | mojavecreativelabcom

Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom

Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma

CONTACT

mojavecreativelabcom

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

mojavecreativelabcom | 19

Page 3: Mojave Creative Lab

David Boersma Art Director at Mojave Creative Lab has worked

on behalf of a multitude brands particularly in the outdoor and

travel industries This includes world-renowned brands Merrellreg

Otterboxreg Incasereg KbullSWISSreg REIreg Levirsquosreg New Era Capreg

Airwalkreg Obermeyerreg Filsonreg Cushereg Palladiumreg Above

The Rimreg Skiscom The American Alpine Club Travaasareg

Experiential Resorts Park Hyatt Beaver Creekreg The Brown

Palace Hotel amp Spareg and many more

When not laying out designs or scouring the world for the

latest trends like every other Coloradoan hersquos typically found

tucked away somewhere in the Rocky Mountains backpacking

snowboarding or climbing with his wife and two dogs cooler in

tow His daily routine didnrsquot always consist of of a low-key climb

and craft beer Prior to moving to Colorado David hiked much

of the Appalachian Trail and motorcycled the length of the Andes

Mountains throughout South America While now settled and

married he still tries to live his life in ways that continue to look

beyond the familiar

If yoursquod like to explore working with David contact him at

dboersmamojavecreativelabcom

ABOUT THE DAVID

[This page Top] David and his wife at his hometownrsquos first annual Pride Festival Holland MI [This page Bottom Left] School children Tanzania David Boersma [This page Bottom Right] Boy

fishing Zanzibar David Boersma [Facing Page] David leaving Machu Picchu Ollantaytambo Peru

My creative inspiration is the result of experiencing a world much bigger than myself

ldquo ldquo

2 | mojavecreativelabcom

mojavecreativelabcom | 3

CLIENTS

only a small selection of clients that Art Director David Boersma has done design work for

TRAVAASA EXPERIENTIAL RESORTS

NEW ERA CAP

EVO ROCK + FITNESS

KbullSWISS

INCASE

FILSON

REI

MERRELLSKISCOM

OTTERBOX

MOONLIGHT BASIN

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB

JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATION

AMERICAN MOUNTAINEERING MUSEUM

PARADOX SPORTS

OBERMEYER

AIRWALK

One last fall crag day at Jurassic Park Colorado David Boersma

4 | mojavecreativelabcom

VIEW ONLINE

POURING DOWN

RISING UP

TWe had already climbed Red Dihedral on The Incredible

Hulk the Harding Route on Keeler Needle and Dark Star on

Temple Crag I had dreamed about climbing these routes

since my infancy as a rock climber And this was the last of

Peter Croftrsquos ldquoBig FourrdquomdashMount Conness As we dropped

into one of the gullies to reach the base its sheer 1200rsquo

southwest face bathed us in a shadow of intimidation

And there was one more reason Conness was last on

our ticklist

ldquoI guess we found the routerdquo I said to Luke pointing at

the Goodrich Memorial

ldquoLetrsquos just get it done withrdquo

In 1959 after Warren Hardingrsquos landmark ascent of

the Nose the southwest face of Mount Conness was a

logical step to test the skills of Yosemite big-wall climbers

If siege tactics could work on El Capitan why not this

overhanging alpine face Don Goodrich and Krehe Ritter a

by Tony Chang photos by Ken Etzel

18 | Advocacy Advocacy | 19

to the challenge On his maiden attempt of the wall Goodrich pulled a huge block off the second pitch Although he jumped free when the block pulled outward it rolled over his body and crushed his skull on the wall

A few months later Harding Herb Swedlund and Glen Denny made their own bid for the first ascent With Goodrichrsquos blood still staining the wall they made the two-day climb using the standard Harding method lots of pitons drilled bolts and wine

We just wanted to get our tired bodies to the top The first pitch greeted us with a wet mess turning our 59 into something of a 510+ insecure slab But Luke the technician took it down with a smile

If you met him on the street yoursquod think of Luke as your standard white-collar desk jockey He works as a research scientist for a landscape conservation NGO in Truckee California However under his office-nerd facade is a serious competitor and athlete Having ticked 21 desert towers and 33 technical canyons across Utah and Arizona as well as multiple

3000rsquo+ climbing days in the Sierra Luke is no stranger to adventure and suffering We met four years ago during my third year of graduate school I had moved to Flagstaff Arizona primarily for school but also for the great access to local climbing Learning to climb in California my most memorable major climbing experiences had been winter ascents of peaks in the Sierra Given our collective climbing backgrounds Luke and I made a good match for a variety of objectives

We also shared a mutual motivation to be more like our climbing hero Peter Croft so when I saw the Live Your Dream request for proposals I approached Luke with the idea of climbing the Big Four Somehow we landed the grant and there we were on a massive alpine face our bodies tired and broken after so many days of technical climbing above 10000 feet

Pitch 2 is the technical crux Luke offered to take this one on the condition that I take the difficult off-width pitch higher up Deal It was a wild bit of rock climbingmdashone of those pitches that keeps you engaged physically and mentally the whole time I heard Luke scream through the crux as he disappeared over a roof

Blistering sun hit me at 11 am as I cruised up hand jams and thrutched into the offwidth large crystals chewing through my skin Halfway up I placed my only 6 Camalot The offwidth continued but toned down a bit to 58 a grade on which Irsquom considerably more comfortable Unfortunately the only protection I had was a green Big Bro and some janky bolts Warren Harding put up half a century ago I placed the Big Bro after 20 feet but accidentally kicked it out after climbing above it I heard it twist and fall all the way down to my last cam Awesome The remaining offwidth although semi-secure was not easy moving I groveled the last 25 feet in fear and exhaustion to reach the belay blood soaking through the legs of my pants I looked like I had been in a motorcycle accident

Luke rocketed up reminding me that I was probably looking at an 80-foot whipper if I didnrsquot make it He led the last cruxmdashthe most intimidating part of the routemdasha steep face with an exposed step-across move into a chimney When Luke got there his last piece was a ways to his left with a nasty pendulum into a wall if he blew it I kept the belay

DREAMLIVE YOUR

THE AAC GRANT FOR THE EVERY-DAY ADVENTURER

powered by

I GROVELED THE LAST 25 FEET IN FEAR AND EXHAUSTION TO REACH THE BELAY BLOOD SOAKING THROUGH THE LEGS OF MY PANTS I LOOKED LIKE I HAD BEEN IN A

MOTORCYCLE ACCIDENTldquo

tight and watched him take his time clearly tired from the week as he dissected delicate moves into the chimney I followed thankful I didnrsquot have to lead that terror show I imagined how insane and improbable it was that Peter Croft onsight free soloed the beast

With the last hard pitch done we were elated All the suffering would soon be over The months of training had paid off There were just a few more victory pitches and a long walk back to the car before we could cash in on beer and fish tacos at the Mobil station in Lee Vining

Our buddy Ken greeted us at the top with a smile He spent the day trying to figure out how to rappel in to take pictures but the upper 3rd- and 4th-class sections were chossy enough that he couldnrsquot find a solid anchor without raining rocks on our heads

ldquoLooks like we got to the top just in time for a stormrdquo I said nodding to dark clouds circling above

ldquoNah itrsquos been like this all dayrdquo Ken replied ldquoBut it hasnrsquot done

anything on this side of the valleyrdquo He told us to walk up the 50 yards to the summit proper so he could take our victory photo

Yards from the summit a loud buzzing sound resonated near Luke ldquoItrsquos these beetles that are around hererdquo Ken reassured uneasiness

in his voice ldquoIrsquove been hearing it all dayrdquoLuke pulled off his helmet and looked for a beetle inside His hair

was sticking on end face white eyes bulging ldquoI just felt a shock go through my spinerdquo he yelled as he made a mad

dash back down the talus We followed The buzzing was now almost deafening

ldquoDrop your gearrdquo Luke screamed as he threw his pack to the ground My arm hair stood tall as I frantically tried to undo my harness straps I tossed my pack under a boulder and made a run toward anything that looked like shelter just as it began to rain thunder echoing above

ldquoDammitrdquo I yelled over to the guys We were sheltered but stuck on the wrong side of the mountain with only 5th-class terrain below so wersquod have to return to the summit and drop off the other side to retreat Irsquod never been too concerned about lightning before having hiked around Flagstaff on the San Francisco peaks during monsoon season and having worked trails in the Yosemite high country This was different I could see lightning striking less than a mile away closing in fast

ldquoGet that camera away from merdquo I yelled at Ken afraid that the metal could attract electricity Cold rain hit us we begin to shiver During a short break in the rain we made a run for the top The buzzing grew more intense and my arm hair came back to life ldquoNo Go back downrdquo

With lightning and virga drawing closer we traversed the mountain in the rain looking for a shoulder to escape from I fell a few times on the summit talus and it was clear that all our options were too wet to negotiate A howling wind spat hail and pushed us relentlessly I considered trying the summit again but Ken saw it in my eyes and commanded me to hunker back down There was nothing to do but wait

[Opening Spread] Waiting out the storm bull [Facing Page] Tony Chang decends after climbing the SW face of Mount Conness

20 | Advocacy Advocacy | 21

My mind was racing angry and confused We sent four of our biggest dream routes but might not live to tell about it The irony Maybe we should have just stayed in Tahoe and gone fishing Live Your Dream More like Live Your Nightmare

It was 15 more minutes of misery shivering and fear before the storm broke This time the rain stopped We took the opportunity to make another run for the summitmdashno buzzing this time We scurried down the 3rd-class ledges and ran across the saddle toward our packs High fives and cheers all around We had survived the scariest half hour of our lives

The sun peeked out from the gaps in the clouds and something changed I realized that this is what we had come for To experience the intensity and the doubt To use all the skills we had learned from a decade of climbing and get another great epic in before heading back to the ldquoreal worldrdquo Perhaps it was never about climbing a handful of so-called classic peaks

We all love those bluebird days at the crag catching some sun and climbing splitter pitches but those arenrsquot the days you remember Itrsquos those times you had to bivy at 14000rsquo happy to be alive the next day Itrsquos those times when you canrsquot get out of bed because of the 20 hours of hiking and climbing you did the day before Itrsquos the epic stories you love to tell around the campfire but never actually want to relive This was one of those memories one we will never forget

TONY CHANG bull Bozeman MT

Tony Chang became a member of the AAC in 2013 and currently lives in Bozeman He is seeking his PhD in Ecology and Environmental Science while finding time to mountaineer in the Beartooths and Tetons

BETAbull More than $30000 availablebull Apply January 1 ndash March 1bull Winners announced 4ndash6 weeks after application period endsbull All climbing disciplines welcomebull Apply through your local regionbull Max grant amounts of $1000

All climbers have dreams Let us help you live yours The AAC Live Your Dream grant powered by The North Face is designed to help you the every-day adventurer take your abilities to the next level

LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT

americanalpinecluborgliveyourdream

[This Page Bottom] Tony Chang showing some grit bull [This Page Top] Tony Chang and Luke Zachmann tackling the last of Peter Croftrsquos ldquoBig FourrdquomdashMount Conness bull [Facing Page] Beer and fish tacos await

22 | Advocacy Advocacy | 23

MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS

POWERED BY

This is your Club These are your photos We are the AACWe are climbers stewards of the outdoors We are doers And what we do tends to be uncommonly photogenic Flip through for exposure to other AAC members in action doing what they love

Want to see your photos in next yearrsquos Guidebook to MembershipSend to photoamericanalpinecluborg

Indian Creek UT Bryan Cox fights for the chains on Anunnaki (511c) AAC member Niko Monteiro52 53

Bishop CA Jon Fait of Gibbon Slacklines representing at the 2013 Fall Highball Cragginrsquo Classic AAC staff member Jeff Deikis

Eastern Sierra CA Climb hard party harder AAC member Jeremy Dreier

MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS

POWERED BY

54 55

1 Stansbury Island UT Zac Robinson and Kenneth successfully descend from a

winter ascent No supplemental oxygen required AAC member Craig Armstrong

MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS

POWERED BY

2

3

54

1

2 Little Rock City TN Whitney Boland Tenessee Thong (V7) AAC member Dan

Brayack

3 North Woodstock NH No pressure Maryanna Saenko competes in a pull-up

competition at the 5th Annual VICE Festival AAC member Ian MacLellan

5 Yosemite National Park CA Dave Campbell and Yosemite NPS climbing ranger Ben Doyle

working hard to remove garbage from the Nose on El Capitan AAC member Cheyne Lempe

4 Bartlett NH Future rock-crushers gotta start somewhere 2013 Cragginrsquo

Classic AAC member Bryan Rafferty

60 61

TO MEMBERSHIPGUIDEBOOK

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB2014

For two years running David has art directed

and designed the American Alpine Clubrsquos

annual Guidebook to Membership a 100 page

archival quality publication In process he

has had the opportunity to work hand-

in-hand with some of the most reputable

photographers writers and companies

in the outdoor industry Supported in

advertising from Alpinist Adidas Five Ten

Black Diamond LOWA and Patagonia the

Guidebook to Membership sees an annual

print distribution of 30000 copies

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP

mojavecreativelabcom | 5

In celebration of the golden age of Yosemite climbing the American

Alpine Club hosted itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside some of the

greatest climbers of all time Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard

was the keynote speaker at the event attended by nearly 600

people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic Designer

David branded the entire event and all subsequent creative

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)

CHOUINARD

O U R P I O N E E R I N G S P I R I TYOSEMITE

T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E C L U B

PRESENTED BY

6 | mojavecreativelabcom

The American Alpine Club founded in 1902 is the premier

climbing organization in the United States With over 14000

members consistent support is key to its growth David

designed all Club mailers to increase organization renewal

rates With clear-cut calls to action inspiring graphics and

focused messaging the mailers have consistently proven highly

successful for the rapidly expanding organization

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER

AAC member Andrew Burr

o Please exclude my name from members-only mail offers from AAC Partnerso Please exclude my name from the online membership directory

YESmdashKEEP MY MEMBERSHIP ACTIVEI want to continue to receive AAC member benefitand keep supporting the climbing community

Auto Renew o Regular $70 o Junior $35 o Sr $45 o Joint $125o Regular $80 o Junior $45 (Under 29) o Sr $55 (Over 65) o Joint $135

Birthday (Required) ______________________________________________________o CanadaMexico add $30 for postage o Other foreign address add $40Irsquod like to support AAC Conservation Programs with a gifto $50 o $150 o $300 o $500 o Other __________________________Total Payment Amount $ ___________________Name as it appears on credit card _________________________________________CC ______________________________________________ Expiration __________Signature __________________________________________ CVV______________JOINT MEMBERSHIP DETAILS Only the Primary Member will receive annual publications and AAC mailings but both members have access to all other benefitsSecondary Member Name _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Email _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Birthday (Required) __________________________________________________

JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAMbull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membershipbull Never worry about your membership expiring

By checking one of the red boxes your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitation Automatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing communityMembers on Auto Renew are not eligible for current or future promotions

Visitamericanalpinecluborgrenew

Call303-384-0110 x110

MailCompleted renewal form

RENEW TODAYYour AAC Membership Expires [MEMBERSHIP EXPIRES]

Hi [INFORMAL]

This is your last mailing before your membership expires

Together we share a passion for climbing And as a member of the AAC yoursquore part of a tribe thatrsquos making a big difference We support each other with rescue benefits critical lodging facilities conservation projects advocacy grants discounts and more Without you none of this would be possible We depend on our dedicated members to accomplish more for our climbing community than we otherwise could alone Please continue to make a difference by renewing your membership today

Thanks for your support

Phil Powers Executive Director

TOGETHER WE ACCOMPLISH A LOT MORE

mojavecreativelabcom | 7

As a membership organization the American Alpine Club depends on

biannual campaigns aimed at significant increases in membership

As a joinrenewal insentive David designed a t-shirt and coinciding

phrase ldquoGet on the bus Wersquove got mountains to climbrdquo The t-shirt

prompted incredible feedback significantly increased brand profile

and saw the greatest single-month membership growth in the

112-year history of the Club

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT T-SHIRT CAMPAIGN

FREE T-SHIRT WITH MEMBERSHIP

For a limited time when you join the AAC community yoursquoll receive our new ldquoBus to Mountainsrdquo t-shirt for free Made with a soft polycotton blend this shirt inspires the start of an adventure Membership prices increase on October 1st but you can join the club at the current rate until November 1st t-shirt included

AAC Member Corey Rich

MailCompleted join form (includecredit card info or check)

Call303-384-0110 x110Mention code AAC-BUS

VisitamericanalpinecluborgjoinEnter promo code corresponding w t-shirt sizeAAC-BUS-XS AAC-BUS-S AAC-BUS-M AAC-BUS-LAAC-BUS-XL AAC-BUS-XXL

LIMITED TIME FREE T-SHIRT

[FULL NAME][ADDRESS 1][ADDRESS 2][CITY] [STATE] [ZIP CODE] [COUNTRY]

JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAM

bull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membership

bull Never worry about your membership expiringBy checking the box your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitationAutomatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing community

LIMITED TIME SPECIAL OFFERJoin the club by November 1st to save $5 and get a free t-shirt

DM_V2indd 1 9513 1214 PM

7000

9000

11000

13000

Members

bus t-shirt campaign

2012

2011

2010

2009

2013

8 | mojavecreativelabcom

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 2014

T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

2 0 1 4

[Front cover] Will it hold Marek Raganowicz

starts pitch 26 Bushido Great Trango Tower

(p297) Marcin Tomaszewski [This page]

Quinn Brett and Prairie Kearney in Greenland

The big towers above Baronet (left) and

Baron (right) (p182) John Dickey

T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

E x e c u t i v e E d i t o rDougald MacDonald

S E N I O R E D I T O RLindsay Gr i f f in

A s s i s ta n t e d i t o rErik Rieger

A r t D i r e c t o rErik Rieger

p u b l i c at i o n s i n t e r nMichiko Arai

C o n t r i b u t i n g e d i t o r sFrederick O Johnson Club Act iv i t ies

David Stevenson Book Reviews

David Wilkes In Memoriam

I l l u s t r at i o n s a n d m a p sJeremy Coll ins Jesse Crock Joe Iurato

Mike Clel land Anna Ri l ing

I n d e x e r sRalph Ferrara Eve Tal lman

T r a n s l at o r sPeter Jensen-Choi Zbysek Cesenek

Tamotsu Nakamura Henry Pickford S imone Sturm Ekater ina Vorotnikova X ia Zhongming

R e g i o n a l c o n ta c t sSteve Gruhn Alaska Drew Brayshaw Rapahel

Slawinski Canada Sevi Bohorquez Sergio Ramiacuterez Carrascal Peru Damien Gi ldea

Antarct ica Rolando Gar ibott i Marcelo Scanu Daniel Seel iger Argent inaChi le Rajesh Gadgi l Har ish Kapadia India El izabeth

Hawley Rodolphe Popier R ichard Sal isbury Nepal Tamotsu Nakamura Hiroshi Hagiwara Japanese cl imbs Peter Jensen-Choi Korean cl imbs Anna Piunova Russia Taj ik istan and

Kyrgyzstan X ia Zhongming China

O n l i n e e d i t o r sDoug Hal ler Chr is Harr ington Joel Peach

Tom Pr igg Cr is Valer io

A d v i s o r y b o a r dAndrew Bisharat Kel ly Cordes Damien Gi ldea

Col in Haley Mark Richey Freddie Wilk inson Emily St i f ler Wolfe

W I T H H E A R T F E LT T H A N K S T ODavid Boersma Claude Gardien Maro

Lablance Er ik Lambert Anna Piunova Tucker and al l AAJ donors and supporters

[ T h i s p a g e ] A p p ro a c h i n g t h e Doublets in East Rosebud Canyon Montana (p127) Ian Cavanaugh

[This page] Whit Magro on the first one-day free ascent of Jaded Lady Mt Hooker Wyoming (p132) John Dickey

2 0 1 4 Volume 56 Issue 88

C O N T E N T S1 2 A n n a p u r n a b y U e l i S t e c k amp Ya n n i c k G r a z i a n iTwo extraordinary ascents of the south face

2 2 N o w e a k s h i t b y s c o t t a d a m s o nA 10-year obsession with the Mooses Tooth

3 2 K h u n ya n g C h h i s h E a s t b y H a n s j ouml r g A u e rThe first ascent of a Karakoram giant

3 8 L e a r n i n g t o w a l k b y r a p h a e l s l a w i n s k iLessons from past expeditions equal success on K6 West

4 5 G a m l a n g r a z i b y A n d y T y s o nExploring northern Myanmarrsquos mysterious mountains

5 2 Ta l u n g b y m a r e k H o l e c e kA favorite partner a final summit

5 8 W i l d s p o r t b y J o n at h a n s i e g r i s tThe future of American rock climbing lies far from the highway

6 4 P u r g at i o n b y C h r i s w r i g h tExploration and intrigue in Nepal

7 2 M o n t e S a r m i e n t o b y C a m i l o R a d aAfter 57 years Tierra del Fuegorsquos spellbinding peak gets a second ascent

R E C O N [ u n e x p l o r e d amp o v e r l o o k e d ]

7 8 T o w e r s o f W i n d a n d I c e b y C a m i l o r a d a amp J a c k M i l l e rThe Cordillera de Sarmiento of southern Chile

9 0 T h e W h i t n e y M a s s i f b y D o u g R o b i n s o n A m y N e s s amp M y l e s M o s e rClassic routes hot new lines and a blank canvas for the future

W E T H A N K T H E F O L L O W I N G F O RT H E I R G E N E R O U S F I N A N C I A L S U P P O R T

Douglas Beal lRichard Blum

Yvon ChouinardAnonymous

Kevin Duncan amp Duncan Family Foundat ion

Ken Ehrhart

Clark Gerhardt JrTodd Hoffman

David KochMark Kroese

McKibbenMerner Family- Foundat ion

Peter Metcalf

AnonymousNY Sect ion AAC

Mark amp Teresa RicheyDavid Riggs

Steve SchwartzSteven Swenson amp Ann Dalton

Doug and Maggie Walker

G R E A T R A N G E S F E L L O W S H I P

$ 1 0 0 0 0 +

$ 5 0 0 0 - $ 9 9 9 9

$ 2 5 0 0 - $ 4 9 9 9

$ 1 0 0 0 - $ 2 4 9 9Robert Anderson

Larry ArthurWil l iam Atk inson

Gai l BatesCOL Christopher Bates

Gal i BehVaclav Benes

Gordon A Benner MDLaur ie Berl iner

Tanya Bradby amp Mart in SlovacekJohn Bragg

Wesley BrownPaul BrunnerWil l iam BurdDeirdre Byers

Edmund amp Betsy Cabot Foundat ion

Robert J CampbellPeter Carter

Jeffrey CohenDouglas Colwell

Kevin CooneyMatt amp Charlotte Culberson

Karen DaubertJoseph DavidsonTom DegenhardtStanley Dempsey

David DingmanJennifer Dow MD

Jeff DozierRichard Draves

Jesse DwyerCharles Ei lers

H Newcomb Eldredge

Stuart El l isonLee Elman

Denise ElmerTerrence Engl ish

Phi l ip ErardTimothy Forbes

James FrankJames Frush

James amp Franziska GarrettBi l l Givens

David GoeddelAnonymous

Wayne amp Cynthia Gr i f f inRichard Gr i f f i th

Scot Hi l lmanMarley amp Jennifer Hodgson

Richard E Hoffman MDRobert Hyman amp Deborah

AtwoodThomas JansonJohn Kascenska

Wil l iam Krause MDEl len Lapham

Leo LebonPaul Lego

Gerald LofthouseJamie LoganGai l Loveman

Chris LynchBrent Manning

Edward MatthewsJames McCarthy

Peter McGannHacksaw

Paul MorrowTed Morton

Amy ParadisWil l Phi l l ips

James Pinter-LuckeJohn Pope

Matthew PruisEugene RehfeldLouis Reichardt

Prof John ReppyAndrea Resnick

Ryan RichMichael Ri leyCarey RobertsJoel RobinsonJohn Rudolph

Stephen Scof ieldGeorge Shaw

Jay SmithGeorge N Smith

Brian SohnAllen Steck

Robert amp Jennifer StephensonSeth Switzer

Pat amp Jack TackleThomas Tapl inDavid Thoenen

Mart in J TorresquinteroJohn Tracy

Dieter Von HennigJames Whit takerTodd Winzenr iedJoseph Yannuzzi

Rob Ziegler

Warren AdelmanSteve BarrettGeorge Basch

Sherman Bul l MDThomas Burch

John CattoMike Coll ins

James Donin iJames amp Cheryl Duckworth

Jim EdwardsDan Emmett

Charlotte FoxMari lyn Geninatt i

Peter Sam Addis amp Gus GoldmanSyed HaiderRobert Hal lHelene Hi l l

Michael HodgesThomas Hornbein MD

Mark KassnerPhi l Lakin Jr

George Lowe I I IJeff Mart inAnonymous

Linda McMil lan

James Morr isseyMir iam Nelson amp Kinloch Earle

David OlsenCharles Peck

Marshal l PetersonCharles Sassara I I I

Howard SeboldAlan Spielberg

Bob StreetPaul Underwood

Theodore WeickerJohn (Jed) Wil l iamson

Keegan Young

Ansara Family Fund Yonsuk Derby

Charles Fle ischmanBruce Franks

Gerald Gal lwasSandy Hi l l

Louis Kasischke

George McCownAmy Meredith

Vanessa OrsquoBr ienWolf Riehle

Cody J SmithTravis Spi tzer

Wil l iam amp Barbra Straka

Theodore Stre ibertPeter Sul ick

Lawrence True amp Linda BrownRonald Ulr ich

The Estate of Paul Wiseman

In Memory of Charl ie Fowler amp Randy Grandstaff

Gordon A Benner MDRobert Branch

Yvon ChouinardChristopher Clarke

Dan CoxBi l l Cox

Phi l ip Erard

Jim FrushRyland Gardner

Stephen GeremiaWayne and Cynthia Gr i f f in

Richard Gr i f f i thDavid Harrah

Richard E Hoffman MDJohn KascenskaLouis Kasischke

Mike LewisDougald MacDonaldMary Ann MatthewsPeter McGann MD

Mona ReynoldsSamuel Si lverste in MD

Theodore Stre ibertTimothy Wil t

[This page] If yoursquore climbing Cerro Mariposa therersquos only one approach Will Stanhope a n d M a rc-A n d re Le c l e rc paddle out from the wall (p224) Matt Van Biene

F R I E N D S O F T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

mojavecreativelabcom | 9

In celebration of the worldrsquos greatest climber the American

Alpine Club is hosting itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside many

of the most influential people in the outdoor industry Reinhold

Messner Chouinard will keynote the NYC event to be attended

by nearly 600 people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic

Designer David has branded the entire event

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)

10 | mojavecreativelabcom

Outdoor Retailer is the premiere trade show of outdoor industry

brands throughout the world held annually in Salt Lake City

Utah As the American Alpine Clubrsquos Graphic Designer David

created many different pieces of creative for the the event in

partnership with Adidas and Petzl On display at the event were

Davidrsquos work on brochures magazines tradeshow signage

posters gift cards and more

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB - ADIDASPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER

SHOW SPECIALJOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR AND GET AN

ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD

a Redstone CO Carlo Traversi

JOIN AT ADIDASBOOTH 1009

AAC_ORADIDASPOSTER_FINAL_070914indd 1 71514 557 PM

Canrsquot make it to the booth Join the Club online at the pro ratemdashoffer valid Aug amp Sept only

Visit americanalpinecluborgjoin choose regular membership category amp enter code ORSM14AAC

Good for $25 off regular membership price ($80)

Expires 93014

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB VIP $25 OFF

AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 2 71714 512 PM

STOP BY THE ADIDAS OUTDOOR BOOTH (1009) AND JOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR ANDGET AN ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD

AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 1 71714 512 PM

mojavecreativelabcom | 11

Mojave Creative Lab is incredibly invested in supporting non-profit

organizations aligned with our beliefs and interests Thatrsquos why we

work pro-bono with Paradox Sports PS is a non-profit committed

to providing inspiration opportunities and specialized adaptive

equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in

human-powered sports Mojave Creative Lab was founded upon

creativity and the love of outdoors Offering our services for free to

an organization with a similar mission was a no-brainer

BRAND PARADOX SPORTSPROJECT POSTCARD DESIGN

ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM

The Paradox Sports Adaptive Climbing Curriculum includes a comprehensive manual clinic and equipment package The curriculum provides qualified instruction on how to provide a rewarding climbing experience for persons with a wide array of physical disabilities while developing inclusive supportive communities for adaptive sport and

emphasizes risk management The curriculum explains the specifics for creating and curating this program at climbing gyms universities adaptive sports agencies outdoor clubs hospitals and community rec programs with a focus on physical adaptation with paralysis amputation deafnessblindness neurological disorders PTSD and TBI

PARADOX SPORTS1911 11th St bull Suite 201 bull Boulder CO 80302 bull (720) 638-5593 bull paradoxsportsorg

paradoxsportsorgcausesparadox-curriculum

ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM

12 | mojavecreativelabcom

Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber Jeff

Lowe in his final act For the past ten years Jeff has been battling

an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS Mojave is

proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for

Jeffrsquorsquos much anticipated film Metanoia premeiring this November

at Banff Mountain Film Festival MCL is a proud sponsor of the film

BRAND JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATIONPROJECT TRIBUTE POSTER

mojavecreativelabcom | 13

Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of

its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the

event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would

garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While

working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was

featured on USA Today and many other online publications

BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC

VIEW ONLINE

14 | mojavecreativelabcom

Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the

Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big

Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media

presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed

a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook

page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative

and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew

substantially over the course of the contest

BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 15

Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new

layering system By combining product placement and action

photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience

and simultaniously communicated the new product line

BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD

copy Tyler Stableford Photography

MOUNTAIN

S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk

Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail

The Result

Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip

16 | mojavecreativelabcom

In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site

ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear

review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly

and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear

review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or

allows for such user-interaction

BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 17

At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics

to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This

original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial

license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by

the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma

mojavecreativelabcom

BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

desert dweller

W E A RM J AV E

18 | mojavecreativelabcom

Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom

Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma

CONTACT

mojavecreativelabcom

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

mojavecreativelabcom | 19

Page 4: Mojave Creative Lab

mojavecreativelabcom | 3

CLIENTS

only a small selection of clients that Art Director David Boersma has done design work for

TRAVAASA EXPERIENTIAL RESORTS

NEW ERA CAP

EVO ROCK + FITNESS

KbullSWISS

INCASE

FILSON

REI

MERRELLSKISCOM

OTTERBOX

MOONLIGHT BASIN

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB

JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATION

AMERICAN MOUNTAINEERING MUSEUM

PARADOX SPORTS

OBERMEYER

AIRWALK

One last fall crag day at Jurassic Park Colorado David Boersma

4 | mojavecreativelabcom

VIEW ONLINE

POURING DOWN

RISING UP

TWe had already climbed Red Dihedral on The Incredible

Hulk the Harding Route on Keeler Needle and Dark Star on

Temple Crag I had dreamed about climbing these routes

since my infancy as a rock climber And this was the last of

Peter Croftrsquos ldquoBig FourrdquomdashMount Conness As we dropped

into one of the gullies to reach the base its sheer 1200rsquo

southwest face bathed us in a shadow of intimidation

And there was one more reason Conness was last on

our ticklist

ldquoI guess we found the routerdquo I said to Luke pointing at

the Goodrich Memorial

ldquoLetrsquos just get it done withrdquo

In 1959 after Warren Hardingrsquos landmark ascent of

the Nose the southwest face of Mount Conness was a

logical step to test the skills of Yosemite big-wall climbers

If siege tactics could work on El Capitan why not this

overhanging alpine face Don Goodrich and Krehe Ritter a

by Tony Chang photos by Ken Etzel

18 | Advocacy Advocacy | 19

to the challenge On his maiden attempt of the wall Goodrich pulled a huge block off the second pitch Although he jumped free when the block pulled outward it rolled over his body and crushed his skull on the wall

A few months later Harding Herb Swedlund and Glen Denny made their own bid for the first ascent With Goodrichrsquos blood still staining the wall they made the two-day climb using the standard Harding method lots of pitons drilled bolts and wine

We just wanted to get our tired bodies to the top The first pitch greeted us with a wet mess turning our 59 into something of a 510+ insecure slab But Luke the technician took it down with a smile

If you met him on the street yoursquod think of Luke as your standard white-collar desk jockey He works as a research scientist for a landscape conservation NGO in Truckee California However under his office-nerd facade is a serious competitor and athlete Having ticked 21 desert towers and 33 technical canyons across Utah and Arizona as well as multiple

3000rsquo+ climbing days in the Sierra Luke is no stranger to adventure and suffering We met four years ago during my third year of graduate school I had moved to Flagstaff Arizona primarily for school but also for the great access to local climbing Learning to climb in California my most memorable major climbing experiences had been winter ascents of peaks in the Sierra Given our collective climbing backgrounds Luke and I made a good match for a variety of objectives

We also shared a mutual motivation to be more like our climbing hero Peter Croft so when I saw the Live Your Dream request for proposals I approached Luke with the idea of climbing the Big Four Somehow we landed the grant and there we were on a massive alpine face our bodies tired and broken after so many days of technical climbing above 10000 feet

Pitch 2 is the technical crux Luke offered to take this one on the condition that I take the difficult off-width pitch higher up Deal It was a wild bit of rock climbingmdashone of those pitches that keeps you engaged physically and mentally the whole time I heard Luke scream through the crux as he disappeared over a roof

Blistering sun hit me at 11 am as I cruised up hand jams and thrutched into the offwidth large crystals chewing through my skin Halfway up I placed my only 6 Camalot The offwidth continued but toned down a bit to 58 a grade on which Irsquom considerably more comfortable Unfortunately the only protection I had was a green Big Bro and some janky bolts Warren Harding put up half a century ago I placed the Big Bro after 20 feet but accidentally kicked it out after climbing above it I heard it twist and fall all the way down to my last cam Awesome The remaining offwidth although semi-secure was not easy moving I groveled the last 25 feet in fear and exhaustion to reach the belay blood soaking through the legs of my pants I looked like I had been in a motorcycle accident

Luke rocketed up reminding me that I was probably looking at an 80-foot whipper if I didnrsquot make it He led the last cruxmdashthe most intimidating part of the routemdasha steep face with an exposed step-across move into a chimney When Luke got there his last piece was a ways to his left with a nasty pendulum into a wall if he blew it I kept the belay

DREAMLIVE YOUR

THE AAC GRANT FOR THE EVERY-DAY ADVENTURER

powered by

I GROVELED THE LAST 25 FEET IN FEAR AND EXHAUSTION TO REACH THE BELAY BLOOD SOAKING THROUGH THE LEGS OF MY PANTS I LOOKED LIKE I HAD BEEN IN A

MOTORCYCLE ACCIDENTldquo

tight and watched him take his time clearly tired from the week as he dissected delicate moves into the chimney I followed thankful I didnrsquot have to lead that terror show I imagined how insane and improbable it was that Peter Croft onsight free soloed the beast

With the last hard pitch done we were elated All the suffering would soon be over The months of training had paid off There were just a few more victory pitches and a long walk back to the car before we could cash in on beer and fish tacos at the Mobil station in Lee Vining

Our buddy Ken greeted us at the top with a smile He spent the day trying to figure out how to rappel in to take pictures but the upper 3rd- and 4th-class sections were chossy enough that he couldnrsquot find a solid anchor without raining rocks on our heads

ldquoLooks like we got to the top just in time for a stormrdquo I said nodding to dark clouds circling above

ldquoNah itrsquos been like this all dayrdquo Ken replied ldquoBut it hasnrsquot done

anything on this side of the valleyrdquo He told us to walk up the 50 yards to the summit proper so he could take our victory photo

Yards from the summit a loud buzzing sound resonated near Luke ldquoItrsquos these beetles that are around hererdquo Ken reassured uneasiness

in his voice ldquoIrsquove been hearing it all dayrdquoLuke pulled off his helmet and looked for a beetle inside His hair

was sticking on end face white eyes bulging ldquoI just felt a shock go through my spinerdquo he yelled as he made a mad

dash back down the talus We followed The buzzing was now almost deafening

ldquoDrop your gearrdquo Luke screamed as he threw his pack to the ground My arm hair stood tall as I frantically tried to undo my harness straps I tossed my pack under a boulder and made a run toward anything that looked like shelter just as it began to rain thunder echoing above

ldquoDammitrdquo I yelled over to the guys We were sheltered but stuck on the wrong side of the mountain with only 5th-class terrain below so wersquod have to return to the summit and drop off the other side to retreat Irsquod never been too concerned about lightning before having hiked around Flagstaff on the San Francisco peaks during monsoon season and having worked trails in the Yosemite high country This was different I could see lightning striking less than a mile away closing in fast

ldquoGet that camera away from merdquo I yelled at Ken afraid that the metal could attract electricity Cold rain hit us we begin to shiver During a short break in the rain we made a run for the top The buzzing grew more intense and my arm hair came back to life ldquoNo Go back downrdquo

With lightning and virga drawing closer we traversed the mountain in the rain looking for a shoulder to escape from I fell a few times on the summit talus and it was clear that all our options were too wet to negotiate A howling wind spat hail and pushed us relentlessly I considered trying the summit again but Ken saw it in my eyes and commanded me to hunker back down There was nothing to do but wait

[Opening Spread] Waiting out the storm bull [Facing Page] Tony Chang decends after climbing the SW face of Mount Conness

20 | Advocacy Advocacy | 21

My mind was racing angry and confused We sent four of our biggest dream routes but might not live to tell about it The irony Maybe we should have just stayed in Tahoe and gone fishing Live Your Dream More like Live Your Nightmare

It was 15 more minutes of misery shivering and fear before the storm broke This time the rain stopped We took the opportunity to make another run for the summitmdashno buzzing this time We scurried down the 3rd-class ledges and ran across the saddle toward our packs High fives and cheers all around We had survived the scariest half hour of our lives

The sun peeked out from the gaps in the clouds and something changed I realized that this is what we had come for To experience the intensity and the doubt To use all the skills we had learned from a decade of climbing and get another great epic in before heading back to the ldquoreal worldrdquo Perhaps it was never about climbing a handful of so-called classic peaks

We all love those bluebird days at the crag catching some sun and climbing splitter pitches but those arenrsquot the days you remember Itrsquos those times you had to bivy at 14000rsquo happy to be alive the next day Itrsquos those times when you canrsquot get out of bed because of the 20 hours of hiking and climbing you did the day before Itrsquos the epic stories you love to tell around the campfire but never actually want to relive This was one of those memories one we will never forget

TONY CHANG bull Bozeman MT

Tony Chang became a member of the AAC in 2013 and currently lives in Bozeman He is seeking his PhD in Ecology and Environmental Science while finding time to mountaineer in the Beartooths and Tetons

BETAbull More than $30000 availablebull Apply January 1 ndash March 1bull Winners announced 4ndash6 weeks after application period endsbull All climbing disciplines welcomebull Apply through your local regionbull Max grant amounts of $1000

All climbers have dreams Let us help you live yours The AAC Live Your Dream grant powered by The North Face is designed to help you the every-day adventurer take your abilities to the next level

LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT

americanalpinecluborgliveyourdream

[This Page Bottom] Tony Chang showing some grit bull [This Page Top] Tony Chang and Luke Zachmann tackling the last of Peter Croftrsquos ldquoBig FourrdquomdashMount Conness bull [Facing Page] Beer and fish tacos await

22 | Advocacy Advocacy | 23

MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS

POWERED BY

This is your Club These are your photos We are the AACWe are climbers stewards of the outdoors We are doers And what we do tends to be uncommonly photogenic Flip through for exposure to other AAC members in action doing what they love

Want to see your photos in next yearrsquos Guidebook to MembershipSend to photoamericanalpinecluborg

Indian Creek UT Bryan Cox fights for the chains on Anunnaki (511c) AAC member Niko Monteiro52 53

Bishop CA Jon Fait of Gibbon Slacklines representing at the 2013 Fall Highball Cragginrsquo Classic AAC staff member Jeff Deikis

Eastern Sierra CA Climb hard party harder AAC member Jeremy Dreier

MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS

POWERED BY

54 55

1 Stansbury Island UT Zac Robinson and Kenneth successfully descend from a

winter ascent No supplemental oxygen required AAC member Craig Armstrong

MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS

POWERED BY

2

3

54

1

2 Little Rock City TN Whitney Boland Tenessee Thong (V7) AAC member Dan

Brayack

3 North Woodstock NH No pressure Maryanna Saenko competes in a pull-up

competition at the 5th Annual VICE Festival AAC member Ian MacLellan

5 Yosemite National Park CA Dave Campbell and Yosemite NPS climbing ranger Ben Doyle

working hard to remove garbage from the Nose on El Capitan AAC member Cheyne Lempe

4 Bartlett NH Future rock-crushers gotta start somewhere 2013 Cragginrsquo

Classic AAC member Bryan Rafferty

60 61

TO MEMBERSHIPGUIDEBOOK

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB2014

For two years running David has art directed

and designed the American Alpine Clubrsquos

annual Guidebook to Membership a 100 page

archival quality publication In process he

has had the opportunity to work hand-

in-hand with some of the most reputable

photographers writers and companies

in the outdoor industry Supported in

advertising from Alpinist Adidas Five Ten

Black Diamond LOWA and Patagonia the

Guidebook to Membership sees an annual

print distribution of 30000 copies

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP

mojavecreativelabcom | 5

In celebration of the golden age of Yosemite climbing the American

Alpine Club hosted itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside some of the

greatest climbers of all time Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard

was the keynote speaker at the event attended by nearly 600

people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic Designer

David branded the entire event and all subsequent creative

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)

CHOUINARD

O U R P I O N E E R I N G S P I R I TYOSEMITE

T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E C L U B

PRESENTED BY

6 | mojavecreativelabcom

The American Alpine Club founded in 1902 is the premier

climbing organization in the United States With over 14000

members consistent support is key to its growth David

designed all Club mailers to increase organization renewal

rates With clear-cut calls to action inspiring graphics and

focused messaging the mailers have consistently proven highly

successful for the rapidly expanding organization

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER

AAC member Andrew Burr

o Please exclude my name from members-only mail offers from AAC Partnerso Please exclude my name from the online membership directory

YESmdashKEEP MY MEMBERSHIP ACTIVEI want to continue to receive AAC member benefitand keep supporting the climbing community

Auto Renew o Regular $70 o Junior $35 o Sr $45 o Joint $125o Regular $80 o Junior $45 (Under 29) o Sr $55 (Over 65) o Joint $135

Birthday (Required) ______________________________________________________o CanadaMexico add $30 for postage o Other foreign address add $40Irsquod like to support AAC Conservation Programs with a gifto $50 o $150 o $300 o $500 o Other __________________________Total Payment Amount $ ___________________Name as it appears on credit card _________________________________________CC ______________________________________________ Expiration __________Signature __________________________________________ CVV______________JOINT MEMBERSHIP DETAILS Only the Primary Member will receive annual publications and AAC mailings but both members have access to all other benefitsSecondary Member Name _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Email _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Birthday (Required) __________________________________________________

JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAMbull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membershipbull Never worry about your membership expiring

By checking one of the red boxes your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitation Automatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing communityMembers on Auto Renew are not eligible for current or future promotions

Visitamericanalpinecluborgrenew

Call303-384-0110 x110

MailCompleted renewal form

RENEW TODAYYour AAC Membership Expires [MEMBERSHIP EXPIRES]

Hi [INFORMAL]

This is your last mailing before your membership expires

Together we share a passion for climbing And as a member of the AAC yoursquore part of a tribe thatrsquos making a big difference We support each other with rescue benefits critical lodging facilities conservation projects advocacy grants discounts and more Without you none of this would be possible We depend on our dedicated members to accomplish more for our climbing community than we otherwise could alone Please continue to make a difference by renewing your membership today

Thanks for your support

Phil Powers Executive Director

TOGETHER WE ACCOMPLISH A LOT MORE

mojavecreativelabcom | 7

As a membership organization the American Alpine Club depends on

biannual campaigns aimed at significant increases in membership

As a joinrenewal insentive David designed a t-shirt and coinciding

phrase ldquoGet on the bus Wersquove got mountains to climbrdquo The t-shirt

prompted incredible feedback significantly increased brand profile

and saw the greatest single-month membership growth in the

112-year history of the Club

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT T-SHIRT CAMPAIGN

FREE T-SHIRT WITH MEMBERSHIP

For a limited time when you join the AAC community yoursquoll receive our new ldquoBus to Mountainsrdquo t-shirt for free Made with a soft polycotton blend this shirt inspires the start of an adventure Membership prices increase on October 1st but you can join the club at the current rate until November 1st t-shirt included

AAC Member Corey Rich

MailCompleted join form (includecredit card info or check)

Call303-384-0110 x110Mention code AAC-BUS

VisitamericanalpinecluborgjoinEnter promo code corresponding w t-shirt sizeAAC-BUS-XS AAC-BUS-S AAC-BUS-M AAC-BUS-LAAC-BUS-XL AAC-BUS-XXL

LIMITED TIME FREE T-SHIRT

[FULL NAME][ADDRESS 1][ADDRESS 2][CITY] [STATE] [ZIP CODE] [COUNTRY]

JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAM

bull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membership

bull Never worry about your membership expiringBy checking the box your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitationAutomatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing community

LIMITED TIME SPECIAL OFFERJoin the club by November 1st to save $5 and get a free t-shirt

DM_V2indd 1 9513 1214 PM

7000

9000

11000

13000

Members

bus t-shirt campaign

2012

2011

2010

2009

2013

8 | mojavecreativelabcom

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 2014

T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

2 0 1 4

[Front cover] Will it hold Marek Raganowicz

starts pitch 26 Bushido Great Trango Tower

(p297) Marcin Tomaszewski [This page]

Quinn Brett and Prairie Kearney in Greenland

The big towers above Baronet (left) and

Baron (right) (p182) John Dickey

T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

E x e c u t i v e E d i t o rDougald MacDonald

S E N I O R E D I T O RLindsay Gr i f f in

A s s i s ta n t e d i t o rErik Rieger

A r t D i r e c t o rErik Rieger

p u b l i c at i o n s i n t e r nMichiko Arai

C o n t r i b u t i n g e d i t o r sFrederick O Johnson Club Act iv i t ies

David Stevenson Book Reviews

David Wilkes In Memoriam

I l l u s t r at i o n s a n d m a p sJeremy Coll ins Jesse Crock Joe Iurato

Mike Clel land Anna Ri l ing

I n d e x e r sRalph Ferrara Eve Tal lman

T r a n s l at o r sPeter Jensen-Choi Zbysek Cesenek

Tamotsu Nakamura Henry Pickford S imone Sturm Ekater ina Vorotnikova X ia Zhongming

R e g i o n a l c o n ta c t sSteve Gruhn Alaska Drew Brayshaw Rapahel

Slawinski Canada Sevi Bohorquez Sergio Ramiacuterez Carrascal Peru Damien Gi ldea

Antarct ica Rolando Gar ibott i Marcelo Scanu Daniel Seel iger Argent inaChi le Rajesh Gadgi l Har ish Kapadia India El izabeth

Hawley Rodolphe Popier R ichard Sal isbury Nepal Tamotsu Nakamura Hiroshi Hagiwara Japanese cl imbs Peter Jensen-Choi Korean cl imbs Anna Piunova Russia Taj ik istan and

Kyrgyzstan X ia Zhongming China

O n l i n e e d i t o r sDoug Hal ler Chr is Harr ington Joel Peach

Tom Pr igg Cr is Valer io

A d v i s o r y b o a r dAndrew Bisharat Kel ly Cordes Damien Gi ldea

Col in Haley Mark Richey Freddie Wilk inson Emily St i f ler Wolfe

W I T H H E A R T F E LT T H A N K S T ODavid Boersma Claude Gardien Maro

Lablance Er ik Lambert Anna Piunova Tucker and al l AAJ donors and supporters

[ T h i s p a g e ] A p p ro a c h i n g t h e Doublets in East Rosebud Canyon Montana (p127) Ian Cavanaugh

[This page] Whit Magro on the first one-day free ascent of Jaded Lady Mt Hooker Wyoming (p132) John Dickey

2 0 1 4 Volume 56 Issue 88

C O N T E N T S1 2 A n n a p u r n a b y U e l i S t e c k amp Ya n n i c k G r a z i a n iTwo extraordinary ascents of the south face

2 2 N o w e a k s h i t b y s c o t t a d a m s o nA 10-year obsession with the Mooses Tooth

3 2 K h u n ya n g C h h i s h E a s t b y H a n s j ouml r g A u e rThe first ascent of a Karakoram giant

3 8 L e a r n i n g t o w a l k b y r a p h a e l s l a w i n s k iLessons from past expeditions equal success on K6 West

4 5 G a m l a n g r a z i b y A n d y T y s o nExploring northern Myanmarrsquos mysterious mountains

5 2 Ta l u n g b y m a r e k H o l e c e kA favorite partner a final summit

5 8 W i l d s p o r t b y J o n at h a n s i e g r i s tThe future of American rock climbing lies far from the highway

6 4 P u r g at i o n b y C h r i s w r i g h tExploration and intrigue in Nepal

7 2 M o n t e S a r m i e n t o b y C a m i l o R a d aAfter 57 years Tierra del Fuegorsquos spellbinding peak gets a second ascent

R E C O N [ u n e x p l o r e d amp o v e r l o o k e d ]

7 8 T o w e r s o f W i n d a n d I c e b y C a m i l o r a d a amp J a c k M i l l e rThe Cordillera de Sarmiento of southern Chile

9 0 T h e W h i t n e y M a s s i f b y D o u g R o b i n s o n A m y N e s s amp M y l e s M o s e rClassic routes hot new lines and a blank canvas for the future

W E T H A N K T H E F O L L O W I N G F O RT H E I R G E N E R O U S F I N A N C I A L S U P P O R T

Douglas Beal lRichard Blum

Yvon ChouinardAnonymous

Kevin Duncan amp Duncan Family Foundat ion

Ken Ehrhart

Clark Gerhardt JrTodd Hoffman

David KochMark Kroese

McKibbenMerner Family- Foundat ion

Peter Metcalf

AnonymousNY Sect ion AAC

Mark amp Teresa RicheyDavid Riggs

Steve SchwartzSteven Swenson amp Ann Dalton

Doug and Maggie Walker

G R E A T R A N G E S F E L L O W S H I P

$ 1 0 0 0 0 +

$ 5 0 0 0 - $ 9 9 9 9

$ 2 5 0 0 - $ 4 9 9 9

$ 1 0 0 0 - $ 2 4 9 9Robert Anderson

Larry ArthurWil l iam Atk inson

Gai l BatesCOL Christopher Bates

Gal i BehVaclav Benes

Gordon A Benner MDLaur ie Berl iner

Tanya Bradby amp Mart in SlovacekJohn Bragg

Wesley BrownPaul BrunnerWil l iam BurdDeirdre Byers

Edmund amp Betsy Cabot Foundat ion

Robert J CampbellPeter Carter

Jeffrey CohenDouglas Colwell

Kevin CooneyMatt amp Charlotte Culberson

Karen DaubertJoseph DavidsonTom DegenhardtStanley Dempsey

David DingmanJennifer Dow MD

Jeff DozierRichard Draves

Jesse DwyerCharles Ei lers

H Newcomb Eldredge

Stuart El l isonLee Elman

Denise ElmerTerrence Engl ish

Phi l ip ErardTimothy Forbes

James FrankJames Frush

James amp Franziska GarrettBi l l Givens

David GoeddelAnonymous

Wayne amp Cynthia Gr i f f inRichard Gr i f f i th

Scot Hi l lmanMarley amp Jennifer Hodgson

Richard E Hoffman MDRobert Hyman amp Deborah

AtwoodThomas JansonJohn Kascenska

Wil l iam Krause MDEl len Lapham

Leo LebonPaul Lego

Gerald LofthouseJamie LoganGai l Loveman

Chris LynchBrent Manning

Edward MatthewsJames McCarthy

Peter McGannHacksaw

Paul MorrowTed Morton

Amy ParadisWil l Phi l l ips

James Pinter-LuckeJohn Pope

Matthew PruisEugene RehfeldLouis Reichardt

Prof John ReppyAndrea Resnick

Ryan RichMichael Ri leyCarey RobertsJoel RobinsonJohn Rudolph

Stephen Scof ieldGeorge Shaw

Jay SmithGeorge N Smith

Brian SohnAllen Steck

Robert amp Jennifer StephensonSeth Switzer

Pat amp Jack TackleThomas Tapl inDavid Thoenen

Mart in J TorresquinteroJohn Tracy

Dieter Von HennigJames Whit takerTodd Winzenr iedJoseph Yannuzzi

Rob Ziegler

Warren AdelmanSteve BarrettGeorge Basch

Sherman Bul l MDThomas Burch

John CattoMike Coll ins

James Donin iJames amp Cheryl Duckworth

Jim EdwardsDan Emmett

Charlotte FoxMari lyn Geninatt i

Peter Sam Addis amp Gus GoldmanSyed HaiderRobert Hal lHelene Hi l l

Michael HodgesThomas Hornbein MD

Mark KassnerPhi l Lakin Jr

George Lowe I I IJeff Mart inAnonymous

Linda McMil lan

James Morr isseyMir iam Nelson amp Kinloch Earle

David OlsenCharles Peck

Marshal l PetersonCharles Sassara I I I

Howard SeboldAlan Spielberg

Bob StreetPaul Underwood

Theodore WeickerJohn (Jed) Wil l iamson

Keegan Young

Ansara Family Fund Yonsuk Derby

Charles Fle ischmanBruce Franks

Gerald Gal lwasSandy Hi l l

Louis Kasischke

George McCownAmy Meredith

Vanessa OrsquoBr ienWolf Riehle

Cody J SmithTravis Spi tzer

Wil l iam amp Barbra Straka

Theodore Stre ibertPeter Sul ick

Lawrence True amp Linda BrownRonald Ulr ich

The Estate of Paul Wiseman

In Memory of Charl ie Fowler amp Randy Grandstaff

Gordon A Benner MDRobert Branch

Yvon ChouinardChristopher Clarke

Dan CoxBi l l Cox

Phi l ip Erard

Jim FrushRyland Gardner

Stephen GeremiaWayne and Cynthia Gr i f f in

Richard Gr i f f i thDavid Harrah

Richard E Hoffman MDJohn KascenskaLouis Kasischke

Mike LewisDougald MacDonaldMary Ann MatthewsPeter McGann MD

Mona ReynoldsSamuel Si lverste in MD

Theodore Stre ibertTimothy Wil t

[This page] If yoursquore climbing Cerro Mariposa therersquos only one approach Will Stanhope a n d M a rc-A n d re Le c l e rc paddle out from the wall (p224) Matt Van Biene

F R I E N D S O F T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

mojavecreativelabcom | 9

In celebration of the worldrsquos greatest climber the American

Alpine Club is hosting itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside many

of the most influential people in the outdoor industry Reinhold

Messner Chouinard will keynote the NYC event to be attended

by nearly 600 people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic

Designer David has branded the entire event

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)

10 | mojavecreativelabcom

Outdoor Retailer is the premiere trade show of outdoor industry

brands throughout the world held annually in Salt Lake City

Utah As the American Alpine Clubrsquos Graphic Designer David

created many different pieces of creative for the the event in

partnership with Adidas and Petzl On display at the event were

Davidrsquos work on brochures magazines tradeshow signage

posters gift cards and more

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB - ADIDASPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER

SHOW SPECIALJOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR AND GET AN

ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD

a Redstone CO Carlo Traversi

JOIN AT ADIDASBOOTH 1009

AAC_ORADIDASPOSTER_FINAL_070914indd 1 71514 557 PM

Canrsquot make it to the booth Join the Club online at the pro ratemdashoffer valid Aug amp Sept only

Visit americanalpinecluborgjoin choose regular membership category amp enter code ORSM14AAC

Good for $25 off regular membership price ($80)

Expires 93014

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB VIP $25 OFF

AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 2 71714 512 PM

STOP BY THE ADIDAS OUTDOOR BOOTH (1009) AND JOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR ANDGET AN ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD

AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 1 71714 512 PM

mojavecreativelabcom | 11

Mojave Creative Lab is incredibly invested in supporting non-profit

organizations aligned with our beliefs and interests Thatrsquos why we

work pro-bono with Paradox Sports PS is a non-profit committed

to providing inspiration opportunities and specialized adaptive

equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in

human-powered sports Mojave Creative Lab was founded upon

creativity and the love of outdoors Offering our services for free to

an organization with a similar mission was a no-brainer

BRAND PARADOX SPORTSPROJECT POSTCARD DESIGN

ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM

The Paradox Sports Adaptive Climbing Curriculum includes a comprehensive manual clinic and equipment package The curriculum provides qualified instruction on how to provide a rewarding climbing experience for persons with a wide array of physical disabilities while developing inclusive supportive communities for adaptive sport and

emphasizes risk management The curriculum explains the specifics for creating and curating this program at climbing gyms universities adaptive sports agencies outdoor clubs hospitals and community rec programs with a focus on physical adaptation with paralysis amputation deafnessblindness neurological disorders PTSD and TBI

PARADOX SPORTS1911 11th St bull Suite 201 bull Boulder CO 80302 bull (720) 638-5593 bull paradoxsportsorg

paradoxsportsorgcausesparadox-curriculum

ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM

12 | mojavecreativelabcom

Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber Jeff

Lowe in his final act For the past ten years Jeff has been battling

an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS Mojave is

proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for

Jeffrsquorsquos much anticipated film Metanoia premeiring this November

at Banff Mountain Film Festival MCL is a proud sponsor of the film

BRAND JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATIONPROJECT TRIBUTE POSTER

mojavecreativelabcom | 13

Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of

its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the

event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would

garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While

working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was

featured on USA Today and many other online publications

BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC

VIEW ONLINE

14 | mojavecreativelabcom

Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the

Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big

Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media

presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed

a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook

page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative

and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew

substantially over the course of the contest

BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 15

Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new

layering system By combining product placement and action

photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience

and simultaniously communicated the new product line

BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD

copy Tyler Stableford Photography

MOUNTAIN

S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk

Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail

The Result

Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip

16 | mojavecreativelabcom

In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site

ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear

review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly

and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear

review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or

allows for such user-interaction

BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 17

At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics

to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This

original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial

license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by

the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma

mojavecreativelabcom

BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

desert dweller

W E A RM J AV E

18 | mojavecreativelabcom

Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom

Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma

CONTACT

mojavecreativelabcom

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

mojavecreativelabcom | 19

Page 5: Mojave Creative Lab

CLIENTS

only a small selection of clients that Art Director David Boersma has done design work for

TRAVAASA EXPERIENTIAL RESORTS

NEW ERA CAP

EVO ROCK + FITNESS

KbullSWISS

INCASE

FILSON

REI

MERRELLSKISCOM

OTTERBOX

MOONLIGHT BASIN

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB

JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATION

AMERICAN MOUNTAINEERING MUSEUM

PARADOX SPORTS

OBERMEYER

AIRWALK

One last fall crag day at Jurassic Park Colorado David Boersma

4 | mojavecreativelabcom

VIEW ONLINE

POURING DOWN

RISING UP

TWe had already climbed Red Dihedral on The Incredible

Hulk the Harding Route on Keeler Needle and Dark Star on

Temple Crag I had dreamed about climbing these routes

since my infancy as a rock climber And this was the last of

Peter Croftrsquos ldquoBig FourrdquomdashMount Conness As we dropped

into one of the gullies to reach the base its sheer 1200rsquo

southwest face bathed us in a shadow of intimidation

And there was one more reason Conness was last on

our ticklist

ldquoI guess we found the routerdquo I said to Luke pointing at

the Goodrich Memorial

ldquoLetrsquos just get it done withrdquo

In 1959 after Warren Hardingrsquos landmark ascent of

the Nose the southwest face of Mount Conness was a

logical step to test the skills of Yosemite big-wall climbers

If siege tactics could work on El Capitan why not this

overhanging alpine face Don Goodrich and Krehe Ritter a

by Tony Chang photos by Ken Etzel

18 | Advocacy Advocacy | 19

to the challenge On his maiden attempt of the wall Goodrich pulled a huge block off the second pitch Although he jumped free when the block pulled outward it rolled over his body and crushed his skull on the wall

A few months later Harding Herb Swedlund and Glen Denny made their own bid for the first ascent With Goodrichrsquos blood still staining the wall they made the two-day climb using the standard Harding method lots of pitons drilled bolts and wine

We just wanted to get our tired bodies to the top The first pitch greeted us with a wet mess turning our 59 into something of a 510+ insecure slab But Luke the technician took it down with a smile

If you met him on the street yoursquod think of Luke as your standard white-collar desk jockey He works as a research scientist for a landscape conservation NGO in Truckee California However under his office-nerd facade is a serious competitor and athlete Having ticked 21 desert towers and 33 technical canyons across Utah and Arizona as well as multiple

3000rsquo+ climbing days in the Sierra Luke is no stranger to adventure and suffering We met four years ago during my third year of graduate school I had moved to Flagstaff Arizona primarily for school but also for the great access to local climbing Learning to climb in California my most memorable major climbing experiences had been winter ascents of peaks in the Sierra Given our collective climbing backgrounds Luke and I made a good match for a variety of objectives

We also shared a mutual motivation to be more like our climbing hero Peter Croft so when I saw the Live Your Dream request for proposals I approached Luke with the idea of climbing the Big Four Somehow we landed the grant and there we were on a massive alpine face our bodies tired and broken after so many days of technical climbing above 10000 feet

Pitch 2 is the technical crux Luke offered to take this one on the condition that I take the difficult off-width pitch higher up Deal It was a wild bit of rock climbingmdashone of those pitches that keeps you engaged physically and mentally the whole time I heard Luke scream through the crux as he disappeared over a roof

Blistering sun hit me at 11 am as I cruised up hand jams and thrutched into the offwidth large crystals chewing through my skin Halfway up I placed my only 6 Camalot The offwidth continued but toned down a bit to 58 a grade on which Irsquom considerably more comfortable Unfortunately the only protection I had was a green Big Bro and some janky bolts Warren Harding put up half a century ago I placed the Big Bro after 20 feet but accidentally kicked it out after climbing above it I heard it twist and fall all the way down to my last cam Awesome The remaining offwidth although semi-secure was not easy moving I groveled the last 25 feet in fear and exhaustion to reach the belay blood soaking through the legs of my pants I looked like I had been in a motorcycle accident

Luke rocketed up reminding me that I was probably looking at an 80-foot whipper if I didnrsquot make it He led the last cruxmdashthe most intimidating part of the routemdasha steep face with an exposed step-across move into a chimney When Luke got there his last piece was a ways to his left with a nasty pendulum into a wall if he blew it I kept the belay

DREAMLIVE YOUR

THE AAC GRANT FOR THE EVERY-DAY ADVENTURER

powered by

I GROVELED THE LAST 25 FEET IN FEAR AND EXHAUSTION TO REACH THE BELAY BLOOD SOAKING THROUGH THE LEGS OF MY PANTS I LOOKED LIKE I HAD BEEN IN A

MOTORCYCLE ACCIDENTldquo

tight and watched him take his time clearly tired from the week as he dissected delicate moves into the chimney I followed thankful I didnrsquot have to lead that terror show I imagined how insane and improbable it was that Peter Croft onsight free soloed the beast

With the last hard pitch done we were elated All the suffering would soon be over The months of training had paid off There were just a few more victory pitches and a long walk back to the car before we could cash in on beer and fish tacos at the Mobil station in Lee Vining

Our buddy Ken greeted us at the top with a smile He spent the day trying to figure out how to rappel in to take pictures but the upper 3rd- and 4th-class sections were chossy enough that he couldnrsquot find a solid anchor without raining rocks on our heads

ldquoLooks like we got to the top just in time for a stormrdquo I said nodding to dark clouds circling above

ldquoNah itrsquos been like this all dayrdquo Ken replied ldquoBut it hasnrsquot done

anything on this side of the valleyrdquo He told us to walk up the 50 yards to the summit proper so he could take our victory photo

Yards from the summit a loud buzzing sound resonated near Luke ldquoItrsquos these beetles that are around hererdquo Ken reassured uneasiness

in his voice ldquoIrsquove been hearing it all dayrdquoLuke pulled off his helmet and looked for a beetle inside His hair

was sticking on end face white eyes bulging ldquoI just felt a shock go through my spinerdquo he yelled as he made a mad

dash back down the talus We followed The buzzing was now almost deafening

ldquoDrop your gearrdquo Luke screamed as he threw his pack to the ground My arm hair stood tall as I frantically tried to undo my harness straps I tossed my pack under a boulder and made a run toward anything that looked like shelter just as it began to rain thunder echoing above

ldquoDammitrdquo I yelled over to the guys We were sheltered but stuck on the wrong side of the mountain with only 5th-class terrain below so wersquod have to return to the summit and drop off the other side to retreat Irsquod never been too concerned about lightning before having hiked around Flagstaff on the San Francisco peaks during monsoon season and having worked trails in the Yosemite high country This was different I could see lightning striking less than a mile away closing in fast

ldquoGet that camera away from merdquo I yelled at Ken afraid that the metal could attract electricity Cold rain hit us we begin to shiver During a short break in the rain we made a run for the top The buzzing grew more intense and my arm hair came back to life ldquoNo Go back downrdquo

With lightning and virga drawing closer we traversed the mountain in the rain looking for a shoulder to escape from I fell a few times on the summit talus and it was clear that all our options were too wet to negotiate A howling wind spat hail and pushed us relentlessly I considered trying the summit again but Ken saw it in my eyes and commanded me to hunker back down There was nothing to do but wait

[Opening Spread] Waiting out the storm bull [Facing Page] Tony Chang decends after climbing the SW face of Mount Conness

20 | Advocacy Advocacy | 21

My mind was racing angry and confused We sent four of our biggest dream routes but might not live to tell about it The irony Maybe we should have just stayed in Tahoe and gone fishing Live Your Dream More like Live Your Nightmare

It was 15 more minutes of misery shivering and fear before the storm broke This time the rain stopped We took the opportunity to make another run for the summitmdashno buzzing this time We scurried down the 3rd-class ledges and ran across the saddle toward our packs High fives and cheers all around We had survived the scariest half hour of our lives

The sun peeked out from the gaps in the clouds and something changed I realized that this is what we had come for To experience the intensity and the doubt To use all the skills we had learned from a decade of climbing and get another great epic in before heading back to the ldquoreal worldrdquo Perhaps it was never about climbing a handful of so-called classic peaks

We all love those bluebird days at the crag catching some sun and climbing splitter pitches but those arenrsquot the days you remember Itrsquos those times you had to bivy at 14000rsquo happy to be alive the next day Itrsquos those times when you canrsquot get out of bed because of the 20 hours of hiking and climbing you did the day before Itrsquos the epic stories you love to tell around the campfire but never actually want to relive This was one of those memories one we will never forget

TONY CHANG bull Bozeman MT

Tony Chang became a member of the AAC in 2013 and currently lives in Bozeman He is seeking his PhD in Ecology and Environmental Science while finding time to mountaineer in the Beartooths and Tetons

BETAbull More than $30000 availablebull Apply January 1 ndash March 1bull Winners announced 4ndash6 weeks after application period endsbull All climbing disciplines welcomebull Apply through your local regionbull Max grant amounts of $1000

All climbers have dreams Let us help you live yours The AAC Live Your Dream grant powered by The North Face is designed to help you the every-day adventurer take your abilities to the next level

LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT

americanalpinecluborgliveyourdream

[This Page Bottom] Tony Chang showing some grit bull [This Page Top] Tony Chang and Luke Zachmann tackling the last of Peter Croftrsquos ldquoBig FourrdquomdashMount Conness bull [Facing Page] Beer and fish tacos await

22 | Advocacy Advocacy | 23

MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS

POWERED BY

This is your Club These are your photos We are the AACWe are climbers stewards of the outdoors We are doers And what we do tends to be uncommonly photogenic Flip through for exposure to other AAC members in action doing what they love

Want to see your photos in next yearrsquos Guidebook to MembershipSend to photoamericanalpinecluborg

Indian Creek UT Bryan Cox fights for the chains on Anunnaki (511c) AAC member Niko Monteiro52 53

Bishop CA Jon Fait of Gibbon Slacklines representing at the 2013 Fall Highball Cragginrsquo Classic AAC staff member Jeff Deikis

Eastern Sierra CA Climb hard party harder AAC member Jeremy Dreier

MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS

POWERED BY

54 55

1 Stansbury Island UT Zac Robinson and Kenneth successfully descend from a

winter ascent No supplemental oxygen required AAC member Craig Armstrong

MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS

POWERED BY

2

3

54

1

2 Little Rock City TN Whitney Boland Tenessee Thong (V7) AAC member Dan

Brayack

3 North Woodstock NH No pressure Maryanna Saenko competes in a pull-up

competition at the 5th Annual VICE Festival AAC member Ian MacLellan

5 Yosemite National Park CA Dave Campbell and Yosemite NPS climbing ranger Ben Doyle

working hard to remove garbage from the Nose on El Capitan AAC member Cheyne Lempe

4 Bartlett NH Future rock-crushers gotta start somewhere 2013 Cragginrsquo

Classic AAC member Bryan Rafferty

60 61

TO MEMBERSHIPGUIDEBOOK

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB2014

For two years running David has art directed

and designed the American Alpine Clubrsquos

annual Guidebook to Membership a 100 page

archival quality publication In process he

has had the opportunity to work hand-

in-hand with some of the most reputable

photographers writers and companies

in the outdoor industry Supported in

advertising from Alpinist Adidas Five Ten

Black Diamond LOWA and Patagonia the

Guidebook to Membership sees an annual

print distribution of 30000 copies

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP

mojavecreativelabcom | 5

In celebration of the golden age of Yosemite climbing the American

Alpine Club hosted itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside some of the

greatest climbers of all time Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard

was the keynote speaker at the event attended by nearly 600

people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic Designer

David branded the entire event and all subsequent creative

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)

CHOUINARD

O U R P I O N E E R I N G S P I R I TYOSEMITE

T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E C L U B

PRESENTED BY

6 | mojavecreativelabcom

The American Alpine Club founded in 1902 is the premier

climbing organization in the United States With over 14000

members consistent support is key to its growth David

designed all Club mailers to increase organization renewal

rates With clear-cut calls to action inspiring graphics and

focused messaging the mailers have consistently proven highly

successful for the rapidly expanding organization

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER

AAC member Andrew Burr

o Please exclude my name from members-only mail offers from AAC Partnerso Please exclude my name from the online membership directory

YESmdashKEEP MY MEMBERSHIP ACTIVEI want to continue to receive AAC member benefitand keep supporting the climbing community

Auto Renew o Regular $70 o Junior $35 o Sr $45 o Joint $125o Regular $80 o Junior $45 (Under 29) o Sr $55 (Over 65) o Joint $135

Birthday (Required) ______________________________________________________o CanadaMexico add $30 for postage o Other foreign address add $40Irsquod like to support AAC Conservation Programs with a gifto $50 o $150 o $300 o $500 o Other __________________________Total Payment Amount $ ___________________Name as it appears on credit card _________________________________________CC ______________________________________________ Expiration __________Signature __________________________________________ CVV______________JOINT MEMBERSHIP DETAILS Only the Primary Member will receive annual publications and AAC mailings but both members have access to all other benefitsSecondary Member Name _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Email _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Birthday (Required) __________________________________________________

JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAMbull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membershipbull Never worry about your membership expiring

By checking one of the red boxes your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitation Automatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing communityMembers on Auto Renew are not eligible for current or future promotions

Visitamericanalpinecluborgrenew

Call303-384-0110 x110

MailCompleted renewal form

RENEW TODAYYour AAC Membership Expires [MEMBERSHIP EXPIRES]

Hi [INFORMAL]

This is your last mailing before your membership expires

Together we share a passion for climbing And as a member of the AAC yoursquore part of a tribe thatrsquos making a big difference We support each other with rescue benefits critical lodging facilities conservation projects advocacy grants discounts and more Without you none of this would be possible We depend on our dedicated members to accomplish more for our climbing community than we otherwise could alone Please continue to make a difference by renewing your membership today

Thanks for your support

Phil Powers Executive Director

TOGETHER WE ACCOMPLISH A LOT MORE

mojavecreativelabcom | 7

As a membership organization the American Alpine Club depends on

biannual campaigns aimed at significant increases in membership

As a joinrenewal insentive David designed a t-shirt and coinciding

phrase ldquoGet on the bus Wersquove got mountains to climbrdquo The t-shirt

prompted incredible feedback significantly increased brand profile

and saw the greatest single-month membership growth in the

112-year history of the Club

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT T-SHIRT CAMPAIGN

FREE T-SHIRT WITH MEMBERSHIP

For a limited time when you join the AAC community yoursquoll receive our new ldquoBus to Mountainsrdquo t-shirt for free Made with a soft polycotton blend this shirt inspires the start of an adventure Membership prices increase on October 1st but you can join the club at the current rate until November 1st t-shirt included

AAC Member Corey Rich

MailCompleted join form (includecredit card info or check)

Call303-384-0110 x110Mention code AAC-BUS

VisitamericanalpinecluborgjoinEnter promo code corresponding w t-shirt sizeAAC-BUS-XS AAC-BUS-S AAC-BUS-M AAC-BUS-LAAC-BUS-XL AAC-BUS-XXL

LIMITED TIME FREE T-SHIRT

[FULL NAME][ADDRESS 1][ADDRESS 2][CITY] [STATE] [ZIP CODE] [COUNTRY]

JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAM

bull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membership

bull Never worry about your membership expiringBy checking the box your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitationAutomatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing community

LIMITED TIME SPECIAL OFFERJoin the club by November 1st to save $5 and get a free t-shirt

DM_V2indd 1 9513 1214 PM

7000

9000

11000

13000

Members

bus t-shirt campaign

2012

2011

2010

2009

2013

8 | mojavecreativelabcom

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 2014

T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

2 0 1 4

[Front cover] Will it hold Marek Raganowicz

starts pitch 26 Bushido Great Trango Tower

(p297) Marcin Tomaszewski [This page]

Quinn Brett and Prairie Kearney in Greenland

The big towers above Baronet (left) and

Baron (right) (p182) John Dickey

T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

E x e c u t i v e E d i t o rDougald MacDonald

S E N I O R E D I T O RLindsay Gr i f f in

A s s i s ta n t e d i t o rErik Rieger

A r t D i r e c t o rErik Rieger

p u b l i c at i o n s i n t e r nMichiko Arai

C o n t r i b u t i n g e d i t o r sFrederick O Johnson Club Act iv i t ies

David Stevenson Book Reviews

David Wilkes In Memoriam

I l l u s t r at i o n s a n d m a p sJeremy Coll ins Jesse Crock Joe Iurato

Mike Clel land Anna Ri l ing

I n d e x e r sRalph Ferrara Eve Tal lman

T r a n s l at o r sPeter Jensen-Choi Zbysek Cesenek

Tamotsu Nakamura Henry Pickford S imone Sturm Ekater ina Vorotnikova X ia Zhongming

R e g i o n a l c o n ta c t sSteve Gruhn Alaska Drew Brayshaw Rapahel

Slawinski Canada Sevi Bohorquez Sergio Ramiacuterez Carrascal Peru Damien Gi ldea

Antarct ica Rolando Gar ibott i Marcelo Scanu Daniel Seel iger Argent inaChi le Rajesh Gadgi l Har ish Kapadia India El izabeth

Hawley Rodolphe Popier R ichard Sal isbury Nepal Tamotsu Nakamura Hiroshi Hagiwara Japanese cl imbs Peter Jensen-Choi Korean cl imbs Anna Piunova Russia Taj ik istan and

Kyrgyzstan X ia Zhongming China

O n l i n e e d i t o r sDoug Hal ler Chr is Harr ington Joel Peach

Tom Pr igg Cr is Valer io

A d v i s o r y b o a r dAndrew Bisharat Kel ly Cordes Damien Gi ldea

Col in Haley Mark Richey Freddie Wilk inson Emily St i f ler Wolfe

W I T H H E A R T F E LT T H A N K S T ODavid Boersma Claude Gardien Maro

Lablance Er ik Lambert Anna Piunova Tucker and al l AAJ donors and supporters

[ T h i s p a g e ] A p p ro a c h i n g t h e Doublets in East Rosebud Canyon Montana (p127) Ian Cavanaugh

[This page] Whit Magro on the first one-day free ascent of Jaded Lady Mt Hooker Wyoming (p132) John Dickey

2 0 1 4 Volume 56 Issue 88

C O N T E N T S1 2 A n n a p u r n a b y U e l i S t e c k amp Ya n n i c k G r a z i a n iTwo extraordinary ascents of the south face

2 2 N o w e a k s h i t b y s c o t t a d a m s o nA 10-year obsession with the Mooses Tooth

3 2 K h u n ya n g C h h i s h E a s t b y H a n s j ouml r g A u e rThe first ascent of a Karakoram giant

3 8 L e a r n i n g t o w a l k b y r a p h a e l s l a w i n s k iLessons from past expeditions equal success on K6 West

4 5 G a m l a n g r a z i b y A n d y T y s o nExploring northern Myanmarrsquos mysterious mountains

5 2 Ta l u n g b y m a r e k H o l e c e kA favorite partner a final summit

5 8 W i l d s p o r t b y J o n at h a n s i e g r i s tThe future of American rock climbing lies far from the highway

6 4 P u r g at i o n b y C h r i s w r i g h tExploration and intrigue in Nepal

7 2 M o n t e S a r m i e n t o b y C a m i l o R a d aAfter 57 years Tierra del Fuegorsquos spellbinding peak gets a second ascent

R E C O N [ u n e x p l o r e d amp o v e r l o o k e d ]

7 8 T o w e r s o f W i n d a n d I c e b y C a m i l o r a d a amp J a c k M i l l e rThe Cordillera de Sarmiento of southern Chile

9 0 T h e W h i t n e y M a s s i f b y D o u g R o b i n s o n A m y N e s s amp M y l e s M o s e rClassic routes hot new lines and a blank canvas for the future

W E T H A N K T H E F O L L O W I N G F O RT H E I R G E N E R O U S F I N A N C I A L S U P P O R T

Douglas Beal lRichard Blum

Yvon ChouinardAnonymous

Kevin Duncan amp Duncan Family Foundat ion

Ken Ehrhart

Clark Gerhardt JrTodd Hoffman

David KochMark Kroese

McKibbenMerner Family- Foundat ion

Peter Metcalf

AnonymousNY Sect ion AAC

Mark amp Teresa RicheyDavid Riggs

Steve SchwartzSteven Swenson amp Ann Dalton

Doug and Maggie Walker

G R E A T R A N G E S F E L L O W S H I P

$ 1 0 0 0 0 +

$ 5 0 0 0 - $ 9 9 9 9

$ 2 5 0 0 - $ 4 9 9 9

$ 1 0 0 0 - $ 2 4 9 9Robert Anderson

Larry ArthurWil l iam Atk inson

Gai l BatesCOL Christopher Bates

Gal i BehVaclav Benes

Gordon A Benner MDLaur ie Berl iner

Tanya Bradby amp Mart in SlovacekJohn Bragg

Wesley BrownPaul BrunnerWil l iam BurdDeirdre Byers

Edmund amp Betsy Cabot Foundat ion

Robert J CampbellPeter Carter

Jeffrey CohenDouglas Colwell

Kevin CooneyMatt amp Charlotte Culberson

Karen DaubertJoseph DavidsonTom DegenhardtStanley Dempsey

David DingmanJennifer Dow MD

Jeff DozierRichard Draves

Jesse DwyerCharles Ei lers

H Newcomb Eldredge

Stuart El l isonLee Elman

Denise ElmerTerrence Engl ish

Phi l ip ErardTimothy Forbes

James FrankJames Frush

James amp Franziska GarrettBi l l Givens

David GoeddelAnonymous

Wayne amp Cynthia Gr i f f inRichard Gr i f f i th

Scot Hi l lmanMarley amp Jennifer Hodgson

Richard E Hoffman MDRobert Hyman amp Deborah

AtwoodThomas JansonJohn Kascenska

Wil l iam Krause MDEl len Lapham

Leo LebonPaul Lego

Gerald LofthouseJamie LoganGai l Loveman

Chris LynchBrent Manning

Edward MatthewsJames McCarthy

Peter McGannHacksaw

Paul MorrowTed Morton

Amy ParadisWil l Phi l l ips

James Pinter-LuckeJohn Pope

Matthew PruisEugene RehfeldLouis Reichardt

Prof John ReppyAndrea Resnick

Ryan RichMichael Ri leyCarey RobertsJoel RobinsonJohn Rudolph

Stephen Scof ieldGeorge Shaw

Jay SmithGeorge N Smith

Brian SohnAllen Steck

Robert amp Jennifer StephensonSeth Switzer

Pat amp Jack TackleThomas Tapl inDavid Thoenen

Mart in J TorresquinteroJohn Tracy

Dieter Von HennigJames Whit takerTodd Winzenr iedJoseph Yannuzzi

Rob Ziegler

Warren AdelmanSteve BarrettGeorge Basch

Sherman Bul l MDThomas Burch

John CattoMike Coll ins

James Donin iJames amp Cheryl Duckworth

Jim EdwardsDan Emmett

Charlotte FoxMari lyn Geninatt i

Peter Sam Addis amp Gus GoldmanSyed HaiderRobert Hal lHelene Hi l l

Michael HodgesThomas Hornbein MD

Mark KassnerPhi l Lakin Jr

George Lowe I I IJeff Mart inAnonymous

Linda McMil lan

James Morr isseyMir iam Nelson amp Kinloch Earle

David OlsenCharles Peck

Marshal l PetersonCharles Sassara I I I

Howard SeboldAlan Spielberg

Bob StreetPaul Underwood

Theodore WeickerJohn (Jed) Wil l iamson

Keegan Young

Ansara Family Fund Yonsuk Derby

Charles Fle ischmanBruce Franks

Gerald Gal lwasSandy Hi l l

Louis Kasischke

George McCownAmy Meredith

Vanessa OrsquoBr ienWolf Riehle

Cody J SmithTravis Spi tzer

Wil l iam amp Barbra Straka

Theodore Stre ibertPeter Sul ick

Lawrence True amp Linda BrownRonald Ulr ich

The Estate of Paul Wiseman

In Memory of Charl ie Fowler amp Randy Grandstaff

Gordon A Benner MDRobert Branch

Yvon ChouinardChristopher Clarke

Dan CoxBi l l Cox

Phi l ip Erard

Jim FrushRyland Gardner

Stephen GeremiaWayne and Cynthia Gr i f f in

Richard Gr i f f i thDavid Harrah

Richard E Hoffman MDJohn KascenskaLouis Kasischke

Mike LewisDougald MacDonaldMary Ann MatthewsPeter McGann MD

Mona ReynoldsSamuel Si lverste in MD

Theodore Stre ibertTimothy Wil t

[This page] If yoursquore climbing Cerro Mariposa therersquos only one approach Will Stanhope a n d M a rc-A n d re Le c l e rc paddle out from the wall (p224) Matt Van Biene

F R I E N D S O F T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

mojavecreativelabcom | 9

In celebration of the worldrsquos greatest climber the American

Alpine Club is hosting itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside many

of the most influential people in the outdoor industry Reinhold

Messner Chouinard will keynote the NYC event to be attended

by nearly 600 people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic

Designer David has branded the entire event

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)

10 | mojavecreativelabcom

Outdoor Retailer is the premiere trade show of outdoor industry

brands throughout the world held annually in Salt Lake City

Utah As the American Alpine Clubrsquos Graphic Designer David

created many different pieces of creative for the the event in

partnership with Adidas and Petzl On display at the event were

Davidrsquos work on brochures magazines tradeshow signage

posters gift cards and more

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB - ADIDASPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER

SHOW SPECIALJOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR AND GET AN

ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD

a Redstone CO Carlo Traversi

JOIN AT ADIDASBOOTH 1009

AAC_ORADIDASPOSTER_FINAL_070914indd 1 71514 557 PM

Canrsquot make it to the booth Join the Club online at the pro ratemdashoffer valid Aug amp Sept only

Visit americanalpinecluborgjoin choose regular membership category amp enter code ORSM14AAC

Good for $25 off regular membership price ($80)

Expires 93014

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB VIP $25 OFF

AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 2 71714 512 PM

STOP BY THE ADIDAS OUTDOOR BOOTH (1009) AND JOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR ANDGET AN ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD

AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 1 71714 512 PM

mojavecreativelabcom | 11

Mojave Creative Lab is incredibly invested in supporting non-profit

organizations aligned with our beliefs and interests Thatrsquos why we

work pro-bono with Paradox Sports PS is a non-profit committed

to providing inspiration opportunities and specialized adaptive

equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in

human-powered sports Mojave Creative Lab was founded upon

creativity and the love of outdoors Offering our services for free to

an organization with a similar mission was a no-brainer

BRAND PARADOX SPORTSPROJECT POSTCARD DESIGN

ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM

The Paradox Sports Adaptive Climbing Curriculum includes a comprehensive manual clinic and equipment package The curriculum provides qualified instruction on how to provide a rewarding climbing experience for persons with a wide array of physical disabilities while developing inclusive supportive communities for adaptive sport and

emphasizes risk management The curriculum explains the specifics for creating and curating this program at climbing gyms universities adaptive sports agencies outdoor clubs hospitals and community rec programs with a focus on physical adaptation with paralysis amputation deafnessblindness neurological disorders PTSD and TBI

PARADOX SPORTS1911 11th St bull Suite 201 bull Boulder CO 80302 bull (720) 638-5593 bull paradoxsportsorg

paradoxsportsorgcausesparadox-curriculum

ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM

12 | mojavecreativelabcom

Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber Jeff

Lowe in his final act For the past ten years Jeff has been battling

an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS Mojave is

proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for

Jeffrsquorsquos much anticipated film Metanoia premeiring this November

at Banff Mountain Film Festival MCL is a proud sponsor of the film

BRAND JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATIONPROJECT TRIBUTE POSTER

mojavecreativelabcom | 13

Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of

its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the

event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would

garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While

working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was

featured on USA Today and many other online publications

BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC

VIEW ONLINE

14 | mojavecreativelabcom

Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the

Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big

Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media

presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed

a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook

page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative

and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew

substantially over the course of the contest

BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 15

Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new

layering system By combining product placement and action

photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience

and simultaniously communicated the new product line

BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD

copy Tyler Stableford Photography

MOUNTAIN

S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk

Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail

The Result

Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip

16 | mojavecreativelabcom

In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site

ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear

review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly

and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear

review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or

allows for such user-interaction

BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 17

At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics

to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This

original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial

license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by

the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma

mojavecreativelabcom

BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

desert dweller

W E A RM J AV E

18 | mojavecreativelabcom

Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom

Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma

CONTACT

mojavecreativelabcom

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

mojavecreativelabcom | 19

Page 6: Mojave Creative Lab

VIEW ONLINE

POURING DOWN

RISING UP

TWe had already climbed Red Dihedral on The Incredible

Hulk the Harding Route on Keeler Needle and Dark Star on

Temple Crag I had dreamed about climbing these routes

since my infancy as a rock climber And this was the last of

Peter Croftrsquos ldquoBig FourrdquomdashMount Conness As we dropped

into one of the gullies to reach the base its sheer 1200rsquo

southwest face bathed us in a shadow of intimidation

And there was one more reason Conness was last on

our ticklist

ldquoI guess we found the routerdquo I said to Luke pointing at

the Goodrich Memorial

ldquoLetrsquos just get it done withrdquo

In 1959 after Warren Hardingrsquos landmark ascent of

the Nose the southwest face of Mount Conness was a

logical step to test the skills of Yosemite big-wall climbers

If siege tactics could work on El Capitan why not this

overhanging alpine face Don Goodrich and Krehe Ritter a

by Tony Chang photos by Ken Etzel

18 | Advocacy Advocacy | 19

to the challenge On his maiden attempt of the wall Goodrich pulled a huge block off the second pitch Although he jumped free when the block pulled outward it rolled over his body and crushed his skull on the wall

A few months later Harding Herb Swedlund and Glen Denny made their own bid for the first ascent With Goodrichrsquos blood still staining the wall they made the two-day climb using the standard Harding method lots of pitons drilled bolts and wine

We just wanted to get our tired bodies to the top The first pitch greeted us with a wet mess turning our 59 into something of a 510+ insecure slab But Luke the technician took it down with a smile

If you met him on the street yoursquod think of Luke as your standard white-collar desk jockey He works as a research scientist for a landscape conservation NGO in Truckee California However under his office-nerd facade is a serious competitor and athlete Having ticked 21 desert towers and 33 technical canyons across Utah and Arizona as well as multiple

3000rsquo+ climbing days in the Sierra Luke is no stranger to adventure and suffering We met four years ago during my third year of graduate school I had moved to Flagstaff Arizona primarily for school but also for the great access to local climbing Learning to climb in California my most memorable major climbing experiences had been winter ascents of peaks in the Sierra Given our collective climbing backgrounds Luke and I made a good match for a variety of objectives

We also shared a mutual motivation to be more like our climbing hero Peter Croft so when I saw the Live Your Dream request for proposals I approached Luke with the idea of climbing the Big Four Somehow we landed the grant and there we were on a massive alpine face our bodies tired and broken after so many days of technical climbing above 10000 feet

Pitch 2 is the technical crux Luke offered to take this one on the condition that I take the difficult off-width pitch higher up Deal It was a wild bit of rock climbingmdashone of those pitches that keeps you engaged physically and mentally the whole time I heard Luke scream through the crux as he disappeared over a roof

Blistering sun hit me at 11 am as I cruised up hand jams and thrutched into the offwidth large crystals chewing through my skin Halfway up I placed my only 6 Camalot The offwidth continued but toned down a bit to 58 a grade on which Irsquom considerably more comfortable Unfortunately the only protection I had was a green Big Bro and some janky bolts Warren Harding put up half a century ago I placed the Big Bro after 20 feet but accidentally kicked it out after climbing above it I heard it twist and fall all the way down to my last cam Awesome The remaining offwidth although semi-secure was not easy moving I groveled the last 25 feet in fear and exhaustion to reach the belay blood soaking through the legs of my pants I looked like I had been in a motorcycle accident

Luke rocketed up reminding me that I was probably looking at an 80-foot whipper if I didnrsquot make it He led the last cruxmdashthe most intimidating part of the routemdasha steep face with an exposed step-across move into a chimney When Luke got there his last piece was a ways to his left with a nasty pendulum into a wall if he blew it I kept the belay

DREAMLIVE YOUR

THE AAC GRANT FOR THE EVERY-DAY ADVENTURER

powered by

I GROVELED THE LAST 25 FEET IN FEAR AND EXHAUSTION TO REACH THE BELAY BLOOD SOAKING THROUGH THE LEGS OF MY PANTS I LOOKED LIKE I HAD BEEN IN A

MOTORCYCLE ACCIDENTldquo

tight and watched him take his time clearly tired from the week as he dissected delicate moves into the chimney I followed thankful I didnrsquot have to lead that terror show I imagined how insane and improbable it was that Peter Croft onsight free soloed the beast

With the last hard pitch done we were elated All the suffering would soon be over The months of training had paid off There were just a few more victory pitches and a long walk back to the car before we could cash in on beer and fish tacos at the Mobil station in Lee Vining

Our buddy Ken greeted us at the top with a smile He spent the day trying to figure out how to rappel in to take pictures but the upper 3rd- and 4th-class sections were chossy enough that he couldnrsquot find a solid anchor without raining rocks on our heads

ldquoLooks like we got to the top just in time for a stormrdquo I said nodding to dark clouds circling above

ldquoNah itrsquos been like this all dayrdquo Ken replied ldquoBut it hasnrsquot done

anything on this side of the valleyrdquo He told us to walk up the 50 yards to the summit proper so he could take our victory photo

Yards from the summit a loud buzzing sound resonated near Luke ldquoItrsquos these beetles that are around hererdquo Ken reassured uneasiness

in his voice ldquoIrsquove been hearing it all dayrdquoLuke pulled off his helmet and looked for a beetle inside His hair

was sticking on end face white eyes bulging ldquoI just felt a shock go through my spinerdquo he yelled as he made a mad

dash back down the talus We followed The buzzing was now almost deafening

ldquoDrop your gearrdquo Luke screamed as he threw his pack to the ground My arm hair stood tall as I frantically tried to undo my harness straps I tossed my pack under a boulder and made a run toward anything that looked like shelter just as it began to rain thunder echoing above

ldquoDammitrdquo I yelled over to the guys We were sheltered but stuck on the wrong side of the mountain with only 5th-class terrain below so wersquod have to return to the summit and drop off the other side to retreat Irsquod never been too concerned about lightning before having hiked around Flagstaff on the San Francisco peaks during monsoon season and having worked trails in the Yosemite high country This was different I could see lightning striking less than a mile away closing in fast

ldquoGet that camera away from merdquo I yelled at Ken afraid that the metal could attract electricity Cold rain hit us we begin to shiver During a short break in the rain we made a run for the top The buzzing grew more intense and my arm hair came back to life ldquoNo Go back downrdquo

With lightning and virga drawing closer we traversed the mountain in the rain looking for a shoulder to escape from I fell a few times on the summit talus and it was clear that all our options were too wet to negotiate A howling wind spat hail and pushed us relentlessly I considered trying the summit again but Ken saw it in my eyes and commanded me to hunker back down There was nothing to do but wait

[Opening Spread] Waiting out the storm bull [Facing Page] Tony Chang decends after climbing the SW face of Mount Conness

20 | Advocacy Advocacy | 21

My mind was racing angry and confused We sent four of our biggest dream routes but might not live to tell about it The irony Maybe we should have just stayed in Tahoe and gone fishing Live Your Dream More like Live Your Nightmare

It was 15 more minutes of misery shivering and fear before the storm broke This time the rain stopped We took the opportunity to make another run for the summitmdashno buzzing this time We scurried down the 3rd-class ledges and ran across the saddle toward our packs High fives and cheers all around We had survived the scariest half hour of our lives

The sun peeked out from the gaps in the clouds and something changed I realized that this is what we had come for To experience the intensity and the doubt To use all the skills we had learned from a decade of climbing and get another great epic in before heading back to the ldquoreal worldrdquo Perhaps it was never about climbing a handful of so-called classic peaks

We all love those bluebird days at the crag catching some sun and climbing splitter pitches but those arenrsquot the days you remember Itrsquos those times you had to bivy at 14000rsquo happy to be alive the next day Itrsquos those times when you canrsquot get out of bed because of the 20 hours of hiking and climbing you did the day before Itrsquos the epic stories you love to tell around the campfire but never actually want to relive This was one of those memories one we will never forget

TONY CHANG bull Bozeman MT

Tony Chang became a member of the AAC in 2013 and currently lives in Bozeman He is seeking his PhD in Ecology and Environmental Science while finding time to mountaineer in the Beartooths and Tetons

BETAbull More than $30000 availablebull Apply January 1 ndash March 1bull Winners announced 4ndash6 weeks after application period endsbull All climbing disciplines welcomebull Apply through your local regionbull Max grant amounts of $1000

All climbers have dreams Let us help you live yours The AAC Live Your Dream grant powered by The North Face is designed to help you the every-day adventurer take your abilities to the next level

LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT

americanalpinecluborgliveyourdream

[This Page Bottom] Tony Chang showing some grit bull [This Page Top] Tony Chang and Luke Zachmann tackling the last of Peter Croftrsquos ldquoBig FourrdquomdashMount Conness bull [Facing Page] Beer and fish tacos await

22 | Advocacy Advocacy | 23

MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS

POWERED BY

This is your Club These are your photos We are the AACWe are climbers stewards of the outdoors We are doers And what we do tends to be uncommonly photogenic Flip through for exposure to other AAC members in action doing what they love

Want to see your photos in next yearrsquos Guidebook to MembershipSend to photoamericanalpinecluborg

Indian Creek UT Bryan Cox fights for the chains on Anunnaki (511c) AAC member Niko Monteiro52 53

Bishop CA Jon Fait of Gibbon Slacklines representing at the 2013 Fall Highball Cragginrsquo Classic AAC staff member Jeff Deikis

Eastern Sierra CA Climb hard party harder AAC member Jeremy Dreier

MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS

POWERED BY

54 55

1 Stansbury Island UT Zac Robinson and Kenneth successfully descend from a

winter ascent No supplemental oxygen required AAC member Craig Armstrong

MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS

POWERED BY

2

3

54

1

2 Little Rock City TN Whitney Boland Tenessee Thong (V7) AAC member Dan

Brayack

3 North Woodstock NH No pressure Maryanna Saenko competes in a pull-up

competition at the 5th Annual VICE Festival AAC member Ian MacLellan

5 Yosemite National Park CA Dave Campbell and Yosemite NPS climbing ranger Ben Doyle

working hard to remove garbage from the Nose on El Capitan AAC member Cheyne Lempe

4 Bartlett NH Future rock-crushers gotta start somewhere 2013 Cragginrsquo

Classic AAC member Bryan Rafferty

60 61

TO MEMBERSHIPGUIDEBOOK

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB2014

For two years running David has art directed

and designed the American Alpine Clubrsquos

annual Guidebook to Membership a 100 page

archival quality publication In process he

has had the opportunity to work hand-

in-hand with some of the most reputable

photographers writers and companies

in the outdoor industry Supported in

advertising from Alpinist Adidas Five Ten

Black Diamond LOWA and Patagonia the

Guidebook to Membership sees an annual

print distribution of 30000 copies

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP

mojavecreativelabcom | 5

In celebration of the golden age of Yosemite climbing the American

Alpine Club hosted itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside some of the

greatest climbers of all time Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard

was the keynote speaker at the event attended by nearly 600

people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic Designer

David branded the entire event and all subsequent creative

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)

CHOUINARD

O U R P I O N E E R I N G S P I R I TYOSEMITE

T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E C L U B

PRESENTED BY

6 | mojavecreativelabcom

The American Alpine Club founded in 1902 is the premier

climbing organization in the United States With over 14000

members consistent support is key to its growth David

designed all Club mailers to increase organization renewal

rates With clear-cut calls to action inspiring graphics and

focused messaging the mailers have consistently proven highly

successful for the rapidly expanding organization

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER

AAC member Andrew Burr

o Please exclude my name from members-only mail offers from AAC Partnerso Please exclude my name from the online membership directory

YESmdashKEEP MY MEMBERSHIP ACTIVEI want to continue to receive AAC member benefitand keep supporting the climbing community

Auto Renew o Regular $70 o Junior $35 o Sr $45 o Joint $125o Regular $80 o Junior $45 (Under 29) o Sr $55 (Over 65) o Joint $135

Birthday (Required) ______________________________________________________o CanadaMexico add $30 for postage o Other foreign address add $40Irsquod like to support AAC Conservation Programs with a gifto $50 o $150 o $300 o $500 o Other __________________________Total Payment Amount $ ___________________Name as it appears on credit card _________________________________________CC ______________________________________________ Expiration __________Signature __________________________________________ CVV______________JOINT MEMBERSHIP DETAILS Only the Primary Member will receive annual publications and AAC mailings but both members have access to all other benefitsSecondary Member Name _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Email _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Birthday (Required) __________________________________________________

JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAMbull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membershipbull Never worry about your membership expiring

By checking one of the red boxes your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitation Automatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing communityMembers on Auto Renew are not eligible for current or future promotions

Visitamericanalpinecluborgrenew

Call303-384-0110 x110

MailCompleted renewal form

RENEW TODAYYour AAC Membership Expires [MEMBERSHIP EXPIRES]

Hi [INFORMAL]

This is your last mailing before your membership expires

Together we share a passion for climbing And as a member of the AAC yoursquore part of a tribe thatrsquos making a big difference We support each other with rescue benefits critical lodging facilities conservation projects advocacy grants discounts and more Without you none of this would be possible We depend on our dedicated members to accomplish more for our climbing community than we otherwise could alone Please continue to make a difference by renewing your membership today

Thanks for your support

Phil Powers Executive Director

TOGETHER WE ACCOMPLISH A LOT MORE

mojavecreativelabcom | 7

As a membership organization the American Alpine Club depends on

biannual campaigns aimed at significant increases in membership

As a joinrenewal insentive David designed a t-shirt and coinciding

phrase ldquoGet on the bus Wersquove got mountains to climbrdquo The t-shirt

prompted incredible feedback significantly increased brand profile

and saw the greatest single-month membership growth in the

112-year history of the Club

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT T-SHIRT CAMPAIGN

FREE T-SHIRT WITH MEMBERSHIP

For a limited time when you join the AAC community yoursquoll receive our new ldquoBus to Mountainsrdquo t-shirt for free Made with a soft polycotton blend this shirt inspires the start of an adventure Membership prices increase on October 1st but you can join the club at the current rate until November 1st t-shirt included

AAC Member Corey Rich

MailCompleted join form (includecredit card info or check)

Call303-384-0110 x110Mention code AAC-BUS

VisitamericanalpinecluborgjoinEnter promo code corresponding w t-shirt sizeAAC-BUS-XS AAC-BUS-S AAC-BUS-M AAC-BUS-LAAC-BUS-XL AAC-BUS-XXL

LIMITED TIME FREE T-SHIRT

[FULL NAME][ADDRESS 1][ADDRESS 2][CITY] [STATE] [ZIP CODE] [COUNTRY]

JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAM

bull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membership

bull Never worry about your membership expiringBy checking the box your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitationAutomatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing community

LIMITED TIME SPECIAL OFFERJoin the club by November 1st to save $5 and get a free t-shirt

DM_V2indd 1 9513 1214 PM

7000

9000

11000

13000

Members

bus t-shirt campaign

2012

2011

2010

2009

2013

8 | mojavecreativelabcom

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 2014

T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

2 0 1 4

[Front cover] Will it hold Marek Raganowicz

starts pitch 26 Bushido Great Trango Tower

(p297) Marcin Tomaszewski [This page]

Quinn Brett and Prairie Kearney in Greenland

The big towers above Baronet (left) and

Baron (right) (p182) John Dickey

T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

E x e c u t i v e E d i t o rDougald MacDonald

S E N I O R E D I T O RLindsay Gr i f f in

A s s i s ta n t e d i t o rErik Rieger

A r t D i r e c t o rErik Rieger

p u b l i c at i o n s i n t e r nMichiko Arai

C o n t r i b u t i n g e d i t o r sFrederick O Johnson Club Act iv i t ies

David Stevenson Book Reviews

David Wilkes In Memoriam

I l l u s t r at i o n s a n d m a p sJeremy Coll ins Jesse Crock Joe Iurato

Mike Clel land Anna Ri l ing

I n d e x e r sRalph Ferrara Eve Tal lman

T r a n s l at o r sPeter Jensen-Choi Zbysek Cesenek

Tamotsu Nakamura Henry Pickford S imone Sturm Ekater ina Vorotnikova X ia Zhongming

R e g i o n a l c o n ta c t sSteve Gruhn Alaska Drew Brayshaw Rapahel

Slawinski Canada Sevi Bohorquez Sergio Ramiacuterez Carrascal Peru Damien Gi ldea

Antarct ica Rolando Gar ibott i Marcelo Scanu Daniel Seel iger Argent inaChi le Rajesh Gadgi l Har ish Kapadia India El izabeth

Hawley Rodolphe Popier R ichard Sal isbury Nepal Tamotsu Nakamura Hiroshi Hagiwara Japanese cl imbs Peter Jensen-Choi Korean cl imbs Anna Piunova Russia Taj ik istan and

Kyrgyzstan X ia Zhongming China

O n l i n e e d i t o r sDoug Hal ler Chr is Harr ington Joel Peach

Tom Pr igg Cr is Valer io

A d v i s o r y b o a r dAndrew Bisharat Kel ly Cordes Damien Gi ldea

Col in Haley Mark Richey Freddie Wilk inson Emily St i f ler Wolfe

W I T H H E A R T F E LT T H A N K S T ODavid Boersma Claude Gardien Maro

Lablance Er ik Lambert Anna Piunova Tucker and al l AAJ donors and supporters

[ T h i s p a g e ] A p p ro a c h i n g t h e Doublets in East Rosebud Canyon Montana (p127) Ian Cavanaugh

[This page] Whit Magro on the first one-day free ascent of Jaded Lady Mt Hooker Wyoming (p132) John Dickey

2 0 1 4 Volume 56 Issue 88

C O N T E N T S1 2 A n n a p u r n a b y U e l i S t e c k amp Ya n n i c k G r a z i a n iTwo extraordinary ascents of the south face

2 2 N o w e a k s h i t b y s c o t t a d a m s o nA 10-year obsession with the Mooses Tooth

3 2 K h u n ya n g C h h i s h E a s t b y H a n s j ouml r g A u e rThe first ascent of a Karakoram giant

3 8 L e a r n i n g t o w a l k b y r a p h a e l s l a w i n s k iLessons from past expeditions equal success on K6 West

4 5 G a m l a n g r a z i b y A n d y T y s o nExploring northern Myanmarrsquos mysterious mountains

5 2 Ta l u n g b y m a r e k H o l e c e kA favorite partner a final summit

5 8 W i l d s p o r t b y J o n at h a n s i e g r i s tThe future of American rock climbing lies far from the highway

6 4 P u r g at i o n b y C h r i s w r i g h tExploration and intrigue in Nepal

7 2 M o n t e S a r m i e n t o b y C a m i l o R a d aAfter 57 years Tierra del Fuegorsquos spellbinding peak gets a second ascent

R E C O N [ u n e x p l o r e d amp o v e r l o o k e d ]

7 8 T o w e r s o f W i n d a n d I c e b y C a m i l o r a d a amp J a c k M i l l e rThe Cordillera de Sarmiento of southern Chile

9 0 T h e W h i t n e y M a s s i f b y D o u g R o b i n s o n A m y N e s s amp M y l e s M o s e rClassic routes hot new lines and a blank canvas for the future

W E T H A N K T H E F O L L O W I N G F O RT H E I R G E N E R O U S F I N A N C I A L S U P P O R T

Douglas Beal lRichard Blum

Yvon ChouinardAnonymous

Kevin Duncan amp Duncan Family Foundat ion

Ken Ehrhart

Clark Gerhardt JrTodd Hoffman

David KochMark Kroese

McKibbenMerner Family- Foundat ion

Peter Metcalf

AnonymousNY Sect ion AAC

Mark amp Teresa RicheyDavid Riggs

Steve SchwartzSteven Swenson amp Ann Dalton

Doug and Maggie Walker

G R E A T R A N G E S F E L L O W S H I P

$ 1 0 0 0 0 +

$ 5 0 0 0 - $ 9 9 9 9

$ 2 5 0 0 - $ 4 9 9 9

$ 1 0 0 0 - $ 2 4 9 9Robert Anderson

Larry ArthurWil l iam Atk inson

Gai l BatesCOL Christopher Bates

Gal i BehVaclav Benes

Gordon A Benner MDLaur ie Berl iner

Tanya Bradby amp Mart in SlovacekJohn Bragg

Wesley BrownPaul BrunnerWil l iam BurdDeirdre Byers

Edmund amp Betsy Cabot Foundat ion

Robert J CampbellPeter Carter

Jeffrey CohenDouglas Colwell

Kevin CooneyMatt amp Charlotte Culberson

Karen DaubertJoseph DavidsonTom DegenhardtStanley Dempsey

David DingmanJennifer Dow MD

Jeff DozierRichard Draves

Jesse DwyerCharles Ei lers

H Newcomb Eldredge

Stuart El l isonLee Elman

Denise ElmerTerrence Engl ish

Phi l ip ErardTimothy Forbes

James FrankJames Frush

James amp Franziska GarrettBi l l Givens

David GoeddelAnonymous

Wayne amp Cynthia Gr i f f inRichard Gr i f f i th

Scot Hi l lmanMarley amp Jennifer Hodgson

Richard E Hoffman MDRobert Hyman amp Deborah

AtwoodThomas JansonJohn Kascenska

Wil l iam Krause MDEl len Lapham

Leo LebonPaul Lego

Gerald LofthouseJamie LoganGai l Loveman

Chris LynchBrent Manning

Edward MatthewsJames McCarthy

Peter McGannHacksaw

Paul MorrowTed Morton

Amy ParadisWil l Phi l l ips

James Pinter-LuckeJohn Pope

Matthew PruisEugene RehfeldLouis Reichardt

Prof John ReppyAndrea Resnick

Ryan RichMichael Ri leyCarey RobertsJoel RobinsonJohn Rudolph

Stephen Scof ieldGeorge Shaw

Jay SmithGeorge N Smith

Brian SohnAllen Steck

Robert amp Jennifer StephensonSeth Switzer

Pat amp Jack TackleThomas Tapl inDavid Thoenen

Mart in J TorresquinteroJohn Tracy

Dieter Von HennigJames Whit takerTodd Winzenr iedJoseph Yannuzzi

Rob Ziegler

Warren AdelmanSteve BarrettGeorge Basch

Sherman Bul l MDThomas Burch

John CattoMike Coll ins

James Donin iJames amp Cheryl Duckworth

Jim EdwardsDan Emmett

Charlotte FoxMari lyn Geninatt i

Peter Sam Addis amp Gus GoldmanSyed HaiderRobert Hal lHelene Hi l l

Michael HodgesThomas Hornbein MD

Mark KassnerPhi l Lakin Jr

George Lowe I I IJeff Mart inAnonymous

Linda McMil lan

James Morr isseyMir iam Nelson amp Kinloch Earle

David OlsenCharles Peck

Marshal l PetersonCharles Sassara I I I

Howard SeboldAlan Spielberg

Bob StreetPaul Underwood

Theodore WeickerJohn (Jed) Wil l iamson

Keegan Young

Ansara Family Fund Yonsuk Derby

Charles Fle ischmanBruce Franks

Gerald Gal lwasSandy Hi l l

Louis Kasischke

George McCownAmy Meredith

Vanessa OrsquoBr ienWolf Riehle

Cody J SmithTravis Spi tzer

Wil l iam amp Barbra Straka

Theodore Stre ibertPeter Sul ick

Lawrence True amp Linda BrownRonald Ulr ich

The Estate of Paul Wiseman

In Memory of Charl ie Fowler amp Randy Grandstaff

Gordon A Benner MDRobert Branch

Yvon ChouinardChristopher Clarke

Dan CoxBi l l Cox

Phi l ip Erard

Jim FrushRyland Gardner

Stephen GeremiaWayne and Cynthia Gr i f f in

Richard Gr i f f i thDavid Harrah

Richard E Hoffman MDJohn KascenskaLouis Kasischke

Mike LewisDougald MacDonaldMary Ann MatthewsPeter McGann MD

Mona ReynoldsSamuel Si lverste in MD

Theodore Stre ibertTimothy Wil t

[This page] If yoursquore climbing Cerro Mariposa therersquos only one approach Will Stanhope a n d M a rc-A n d re Le c l e rc paddle out from the wall (p224) Matt Van Biene

F R I E N D S O F T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

mojavecreativelabcom | 9

In celebration of the worldrsquos greatest climber the American

Alpine Club is hosting itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside many

of the most influential people in the outdoor industry Reinhold

Messner Chouinard will keynote the NYC event to be attended

by nearly 600 people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic

Designer David has branded the entire event

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)

10 | mojavecreativelabcom

Outdoor Retailer is the premiere trade show of outdoor industry

brands throughout the world held annually in Salt Lake City

Utah As the American Alpine Clubrsquos Graphic Designer David

created many different pieces of creative for the the event in

partnership with Adidas and Petzl On display at the event were

Davidrsquos work on brochures magazines tradeshow signage

posters gift cards and more

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB - ADIDASPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER

SHOW SPECIALJOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR AND GET AN

ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD

a Redstone CO Carlo Traversi

JOIN AT ADIDASBOOTH 1009

AAC_ORADIDASPOSTER_FINAL_070914indd 1 71514 557 PM

Canrsquot make it to the booth Join the Club online at the pro ratemdashoffer valid Aug amp Sept only

Visit americanalpinecluborgjoin choose regular membership category amp enter code ORSM14AAC

Good for $25 off regular membership price ($80)

Expires 93014

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB VIP $25 OFF

AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 2 71714 512 PM

STOP BY THE ADIDAS OUTDOOR BOOTH (1009) AND JOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR ANDGET AN ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD

AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 1 71714 512 PM

mojavecreativelabcom | 11

Mojave Creative Lab is incredibly invested in supporting non-profit

organizations aligned with our beliefs and interests Thatrsquos why we

work pro-bono with Paradox Sports PS is a non-profit committed

to providing inspiration opportunities and specialized adaptive

equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in

human-powered sports Mojave Creative Lab was founded upon

creativity and the love of outdoors Offering our services for free to

an organization with a similar mission was a no-brainer

BRAND PARADOX SPORTSPROJECT POSTCARD DESIGN

ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM

The Paradox Sports Adaptive Climbing Curriculum includes a comprehensive manual clinic and equipment package The curriculum provides qualified instruction on how to provide a rewarding climbing experience for persons with a wide array of physical disabilities while developing inclusive supportive communities for adaptive sport and

emphasizes risk management The curriculum explains the specifics for creating and curating this program at climbing gyms universities adaptive sports agencies outdoor clubs hospitals and community rec programs with a focus on physical adaptation with paralysis amputation deafnessblindness neurological disorders PTSD and TBI

PARADOX SPORTS1911 11th St bull Suite 201 bull Boulder CO 80302 bull (720) 638-5593 bull paradoxsportsorg

paradoxsportsorgcausesparadox-curriculum

ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM

12 | mojavecreativelabcom

Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber Jeff

Lowe in his final act For the past ten years Jeff has been battling

an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS Mojave is

proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for

Jeffrsquorsquos much anticipated film Metanoia premeiring this November

at Banff Mountain Film Festival MCL is a proud sponsor of the film

BRAND JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATIONPROJECT TRIBUTE POSTER

mojavecreativelabcom | 13

Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of

its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the

event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would

garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While

working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was

featured on USA Today and many other online publications

BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC

VIEW ONLINE

14 | mojavecreativelabcom

Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the

Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big

Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media

presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed

a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook

page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative

and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew

substantially over the course of the contest

BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 15

Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new

layering system By combining product placement and action

photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience

and simultaniously communicated the new product line

BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD

copy Tyler Stableford Photography

MOUNTAIN

S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk

Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail

The Result

Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip

16 | mojavecreativelabcom

In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site

ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear

review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly

and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear

review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or

allows for such user-interaction

BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 17

At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics

to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This

original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial

license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by

the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma

mojavecreativelabcom

BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

desert dweller

W E A RM J AV E

18 | mojavecreativelabcom

Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom

Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma

CONTACT

mojavecreativelabcom

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

mojavecreativelabcom | 19

Page 7: Mojave Creative Lab

In celebration of the golden age of Yosemite climbing the American

Alpine Club hosted itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside some of the

greatest climbers of all time Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard

was the keynote speaker at the event attended by nearly 600

people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic Designer

David branded the entire event and all subsequent creative

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)

CHOUINARD

O U R P I O N E E R I N G S P I R I TYOSEMITE

T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E C L U B

PRESENTED BY

6 | mojavecreativelabcom

The American Alpine Club founded in 1902 is the premier

climbing organization in the United States With over 14000

members consistent support is key to its growth David

designed all Club mailers to increase organization renewal

rates With clear-cut calls to action inspiring graphics and

focused messaging the mailers have consistently proven highly

successful for the rapidly expanding organization

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER

AAC member Andrew Burr

o Please exclude my name from members-only mail offers from AAC Partnerso Please exclude my name from the online membership directory

YESmdashKEEP MY MEMBERSHIP ACTIVEI want to continue to receive AAC member benefitand keep supporting the climbing community

Auto Renew o Regular $70 o Junior $35 o Sr $45 o Joint $125o Regular $80 o Junior $45 (Under 29) o Sr $55 (Over 65) o Joint $135

Birthday (Required) ______________________________________________________o CanadaMexico add $30 for postage o Other foreign address add $40Irsquod like to support AAC Conservation Programs with a gifto $50 o $150 o $300 o $500 o Other __________________________Total Payment Amount $ ___________________Name as it appears on credit card _________________________________________CC ______________________________________________ Expiration __________Signature __________________________________________ CVV______________JOINT MEMBERSHIP DETAILS Only the Primary Member will receive annual publications and AAC mailings but both members have access to all other benefitsSecondary Member Name _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Email _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Birthday (Required) __________________________________________________

JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAMbull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membershipbull Never worry about your membership expiring

By checking one of the red boxes your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitation Automatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing communityMembers on Auto Renew are not eligible for current or future promotions

Visitamericanalpinecluborgrenew

Call303-384-0110 x110

MailCompleted renewal form

RENEW TODAYYour AAC Membership Expires [MEMBERSHIP EXPIRES]

Hi [INFORMAL]

This is your last mailing before your membership expires

Together we share a passion for climbing And as a member of the AAC yoursquore part of a tribe thatrsquos making a big difference We support each other with rescue benefits critical lodging facilities conservation projects advocacy grants discounts and more Without you none of this would be possible We depend on our dedicated members to accomplish more for our climbing community than we otherwise could alone Please continue to make a difference by renewing your membership today

Thanks for your support

Phil Powers Executive Director

TOGETHER WE ACCOMPLISH A LOT MORE

mojavecreativelabcom | 7

As a membership organization the American Alpine Club depends on

biannual campaigns aimed at significant increases in membership

As a joinrenewal insentive David designed a t-shirt and coinciding

phrase ldquoGet on the bus Wersquove got mountains to climbrdquo The t-shirt

prompted incredible feedback significantly increased brand profile

and saw the greatest single-month membership growth in the

112-year history of the Club

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT T-SHIRT CAMPAIGN

FREE T-SHIRT WITH MEMBERSHIP

For a limited time when you join the AAC community yoursquoll receive our new ldquoBus to Mountainsrdquo t-shirt for free Made with a soft polycotton blend this shirt inspires the start of an adventure Membership prices increase on October 1st but you can join the club at the current rate until November 1st t-shirt included

AAC Member Corey Rich

MailCompleted join form (includecredit card info or check)

Call303-384-0110 x110Mention code AAC-BUS

VisitamericanalpinecluborgjoinEnter promo code corresponding w t-shirt sizeAAC-BUS-XS AAC-BUS-S AAC-BUS-M AAC-BUS-LAAC-BUS-XL AAC-BUS-XXL

LIMITED TIME FREE T-SHIRT

[FULL NAME][ADDRESS 1][ADDRESS 2][CITY] [STATE] [ZIP CODE] [COUNTRY]

JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAM

bull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membership

bull Never worry about your membership expiringBy checking the box your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitationAutomatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing community

LIMITED TIME SPECIAL OFFERJoin the club by November 1st to save $5 and get a free t-shirt

DM_V2indd 1 9513 1214 PM

7000

9000

11000

13000

Members

bus t-shirt campaign

2012

2011

2010

2009

2013

8 | mojavecreativelabcom

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 2014

T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

2 0 1 4

[Front cover] Will it hold Marek Raganowicz

starts pitch 26 Bushido Great Trango Tower

(p297) Marcin Tomaszewski [This page]

Quinn Brett and Prairie Kearney in Greenland

The big towers above Baronet (left) and

Baron (right) (p182) John Dickey

T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

E x e c u t i v e E d i t o rDougald MacDonald

S E N I O R E D I T O RLindsay Gr i f f in

A s s i s ta n t e d i t o rErik Rieger

A r t D i r e c t o rErik Rieger

p u b l i c at i o n s i n t e r nMichiko Arai

C o n t r i b u t i n g e d i t o r sFrederick O Johnson Club Act iv i t ies

David Stevenson Book Reviews

David Wilkes In Memoriam

I l l u s t r at i o n s a n d m a p sJeremy Coll ins Jesse Crock Joe Iurato

Mike Clel land Anna Ri l ing

I n d e x e r sRalph Ferrara Eve Tal lman

T r a n s l at o r sPeter Jensen-Choi Zbysek Cesenek

Tamotsu Nakamura Henry Pickford S imone Sturm Ekater ina Vorotnikova X ia Zhongming

R e g i o n a l c o n ta c t sSteve Gruhn Alaska Drew Brayshaw Rapahel

Slawinski Canada Sevi Bohorquez Sergio Ramiacuterez Carrascal Peru Damien Gi ldea

Antarct ica Rolando Gar ibott i Marcelo Scanu Daniel Seel iger Argent inaChi le Rajesh Gadgi l Har ish Kapadia India El izabeth

Hawley Rodolphe Popier R ichard Sal isbury Nepal Tamotsu Nakamura Hiroshi Hagiwara Japanese cl imbs Peter Jensen-Choi Korean cl imbs Anna Piunova Russia Taj ik istan and

Kyrgyzstan X ia Zhongming China

O n l i n e e d i t o r sDoug Hal ler Chr is Harr ington Joel Peach

Tom Pr igg Cr is Valer io

A d v i s o r y b o a r dAndrew Bisharat Kel ly Cordes Damien Gi ldea

Col in Haley Mark Richey Freddie Wilk inson Emily St i f ler Wolfe

W I T H H E A R T F E LT T H A N K S T ODavid Boersma Claude Gardien Maro

Lablance Er ik Lambert Anna Piunova Tucker and al l AAJ donors and supporters

[ T h i s p a g e ] A p p ro a c h i n g t h e Doublets in East Rosebud Canyon Montana (p127) Ian Cavanaugh

[This page] Whit Magro on the first one-day free ascent of Jaded Lady Mt Hooker Wyoming (p132) John Dickey

2 0 1 4 Volume 56 Issue 88

C O N T E N T S1 2 A n n a p u r n a b y U e l i S t e c k amp Ya n n i c k G r a z i a n iTwo extraordinary ascents of the south face

2 2 N o w e a k s h i t b y s c o t t a d a m s o nA 10-year obsession with the Mooses Tooth

3 2 K h u n ya n g C h h i s h E a s t b y H a n s j ouml r g A u e rThe first ascent of a Karakoram giant

3 8 L e a r n i n g t o w a l k b y r a p h a e l s l a w i n s k iLessons from past expeditions equal success on K6 West

4 5 G a m l a n g r a z i b y A n d y T y s o nExploring northern Myanmarrsquos mysterious mountains

5 2 Ta l u n g b y m a r e k H o l e c e kA favorite partner a final summit

5 8 W i l d s p o r t b y J o n at h a n s i e g r i s tThe future of American rock climbing lies far from the highway

6 4 P u r g at i o n b y C h r i s w r i g h tExploration and intrigue in Nepal

7 2 M o n t e S a r m i e n t o b y C a m i l o R a d aAfter 57 years Tierra del Fuegorsquos spellbinding peak gets a second ascent

R E C O N [ u n e x p l o r e d amp o v e r l o o k e d ]

7 8 T o w e r s o f W i n d a n d I c e b y C a m i l o r a d a amp J a c k M i l l e rThe Cordillera de Sarmiento of southern Chile

9 0 T h e W h i t n e y M a s s i f b y D o u g R o b i n s o n A m y N e s s amp M y l e s M o s e rClassic routes hot new lines and a blank canvas for the future

W E T H A N K T H E F O L L O W I N G F O RT H E I R G E N E R O U S F I N A N C I A L S U P P O R T

Douglas Beal lRichard Blum

Yvon ChouinardAnonymous

Kevin Duncan amp Duncan Family Foundat ion

Ken Ehrhart

Clark Gerhardt JrTodd Hoffman

David KochMark Kroese

McKibbenMerner Family- Foundat ion

Peter Metcalf

AnonymousNY Sect ion AAC

Mark amp Teresa RicheyDavid Riggs

Steve SchwartzSteven Swenson amp Ann Dalton

Doug and Maggie Walker

G R E A T R A N G E S F E L L O W S H I P

$ 1 0 0 0 0 +

$ 5 0 0 0 - $ 9 9 9 9

$ 2 5 0 0 - $ 4 9 9 9

$ 1 0 0 0 - $ 2 4 9 9Robert Anderson

Larry ArthurWil l iam Atk inson

Gai l BatesCOL Christopher Bates

Gal i BehVaclav Benes

Gordon A Benner MDLaur ie Berl iner

Tanya Bradby amp Mart in SlovacekJohn Bragg

Wesley BrownPaul BrunnerWil l iam BurdDeirdre Byers

Edmund amp Betsy Cabot Foundat ion

Robert J CampbellPeter Carter

Jeffrey CohenDouglas Colwell

Kevin CooneyMatt amp Charlotte Culberson

Karen DaubertJoseph DavidsonTom DegenhardtStanley Dempsey

David DingmanJennifer Dow MD

Jeff DozierRichard Draves

Jesse DwyerCharles Ei lers

H Newcomb Eldredge

Stuart El l isonLee Elman

Denise ElmerTerrence Engl ish

Phi l ip ErardTimothy Forbes

James FrankJames Frush

James amp Franziska GarrettBi l l Givens

David GoeddelAnonymous

Wayne amp Cynthia Gr i f f inRichard Gr i f f i th

Scot Hi l lmanMarley amp Jennifer Hodgson

Richard E Hoffman MDRobert Hyman amp Deborah

AtwoodThomas JansonJohn Kascenska

Wil l iam Krause MDEl len Lapham

Leo LebonPaul Lego

Gerald LofthouseJamie LoganGai l Loveman

Chris LynchBrent Manning

Edward MatthewsJames McCarthy

Peter McGannHacksaw

Paul MorrowTed Morton

Amy ParadisWil l Phi l l ips

James Pinter-LuckeJohn Pope

Matthew PruisEugene RehfeldLouis Reichardt

Prof John ReppyAndrea Resnick

Ryan RichMichael Ri leyCarey RobertsJoel RobinsonJohn Rudolph

Stephen Scof ieldGeorge Shaw

Jay SmithGeorge N Smith

Brian SohnAllen Steck

Robert amp Jennifer StephensonSeth Switzer

Pat amp Jack TackleThomas Tapl inDavid Thoenen

Mart in J TorresquinteroJohn Tracy

Dieter Von HennigJames Whit takerTodd Winzenr iedJoseph Yannuzzi

Rob Ziegler

Warren AdelmanSteve BarrettGeorge Basch

Sherman Bul l MDThomas Burch

John CattoMike Coll ins

James Donin iJames amp Cheryl Duckworth

Jim EdwardsDan Emmett

Charlotte FoxMari lyn Geninatt i

Peter Sam Addis amp Gus GoldmanSyed HaiderRobert Hal lHelene Hi l l

Michael HodgesThomas Hornbein MD

Mark KassnerPhi l Lakin Jr

George Lowe I I IJeff Mart inAnonymous

Linda McMil lan

James Morr isseyMir iam Nelson amp Kinloch Earle

David OlsenCharles Peck

Marshal l PetersonCharles Sassara I I I

Howard SeboldAlan Spielberg

Bob StreetPaul Underwood

Theodore WeickerJohn (Jed) Wil l iamson

Keegan Young

Ansara Family Fund Yonsuk Derby

Charles Fle ischmanBruce Franks

Gerald Gal lwasSandy Hi l l

Louis Kasischke

George McCownAmy Meredith

Vanessa OrsquoBr ienWolf Riehle

Cody J SmithTravis Spi tzer

Wil l iam amp Barbra Straka

Theodore Stre ibertPeter Sul ick

Lawrence True amp Linda BrownRonald Ulr ich

The Estate of Paul Wiseman

In Memory of Charl ie Fowler amp Randy Grandstaff

Gordon A Benner MDRobert Branch

Yvon ChouinardChristopher Clarke

Dan CoxBi l l Cox

Phi l ip Erard

Jim FrushRyland Gardner

Stephen GeremiaWayne and Cynthia Gr i f f in

Richard Gr i f f i thDavid Harrah

Richard E Hoffman MDJohn KascenskaLouis Kasischke

Mike LewisDougald MacDonaldMary Ann MatthewsPeter McGann MD

Mona ReynoldsSamuel Si lverste in MD

Theodore Stre ibertTimothy Wil t

[This page] If yoursquore climbing Cerro Mariposa therersquos only one approach Will Stanhope a n d M a rc-A n d re Le c l e rc paddle out from the wall (p224) Matt Van Biene

F R I E N D S O F T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

mojavecreativelabcom | 9

In celebration of the worldrsquos greatest climber the American

Alpine Club is hosting itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside many

of the most influential people in the outdoor industry Reinhold

Messner Chouinard will keynote the NYC event to be attended

by nearly 600 people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic

Designer David has branded the entire event

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)

10 | mojavecreativelabcom

Outdoor Retailer is the premiere trade show of outdoor industry

brands throughout the world held annually in Salt Lake City

Utah As the American Alpine Clubrsquos Graphic Designer David

created many different pieces of creative for the the event in

partnership with Adidas and Petzl On display at the event were

Davidrsquos work on brochures magazines tradeshow signage

posters gift cards and more

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB - ADIDASPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER

SHOW SPECIALJOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR AND GET AN

ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD

a Redstone CO Carlo Traversi

JOIN AT ADIDASBOOTH 1009

AAC_ORADIDASPOSTER_FINAL_070914indd 1 71514 557 PM

Canrsquot make it to the booth Join the Club online at the pro ratemdashoffer valid Aug amp Sept only

Visit americanalpinecluborgjoin choose regular membership category amp enter code ORSM14AAC

Good for $25 off regular membership price ($80)

Expires 93014

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB VIP $25 OFF

AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 2 71714 512 PM

STOP BY THE ADIDAS OUTDOOR BOOTH (1009) AND JOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR ANDGET AN ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD

AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 1 71714 512 PM

mojavecreativelabcom | 11

Mojave Creative Lab is incredibly invested in supporting non-profit

organizations aligned with our beliefs and interests Thatrsquos why we

work pro-bono with Paradox Sports PS is a non-profit committed

to providing inspiration opportunities and specialized adaptive

equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in

human-powered sports Mojave Creative Lab was founded upon

creativity and the love of outdoors Offering our services for free to

an organization with a similar mission was a no-brainer

BRAND PARADOX SPORTSPROJECT POSTCARD DESIGN

ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM

The Paradox Sports Adaptive Climbing Curriculum includes a comprehensive manual clinic and equipment package The curriculum provides qualified instruction on how to provide a rewarding climbing experience for persons with a wide array of physical disabilities while developing inclusive supportive communities for adaptive sport and

emphasizes risk management The curriculum explains the specifics for creating and curating this program at climbing gyms universities adaptive sports agencies outdoor clubs hospitals and community rec programs with a focus on physical adaptation with paralysis amputation deafnessblindness neurological disorders PTSD and TBI

PARADOX SPORTS1911 11th St bull Suite 201 bull Boulder CO 80302 bull (720) 638-5593 bull paradoxsportsorg

paradoxsportsorgcausesparadox-curriculum

ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM

12 | mojavecreativelabcom

Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber Jeff

Lowe in his final act For the past ten years Jeff has been battling

an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS Mojave is

proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for

Jeffrsquorsquos much anticipated film Metanoia premeiring this November

at Banff Mountain Film Festival MCL is a proud sponsor of the film

BRAND JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATIONPROJECT TRIBUTE POSTER

mojavecreativelabcom | 13

Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of

its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the

event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would

garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While

working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was

featured on USA Today and many other online publications

BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC

VIEW ONLINE

14 | mojavecreativelabcom

Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the

Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big

Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media

presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed

a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook

page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative

and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew

substantially over the course of the contest

BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 15

Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new

layering system By combining product placement and action

photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience

and simultaniously communicated the new product line

BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD

copy Tyler Stableford Photography

MOUNTAIN

S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk

Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail

The Result

Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip

16 | mojavecreativelabcom

In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site

ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear

review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly

and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear

review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or

allows for such user-interaction

BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 17

At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics

to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This

original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial

license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by

the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma

mojavecreativelabcom

BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

desert dweller

W E A RM J AV E

18 | mojavecreativelabcom

Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom

Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma

CONTACT

mojavecreativelabcom

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

mojavecreativelabcom | 19

Page 8: Mojave Creative Lab

The American Alpine Club founded in 1902 is the premier

climbing organization in the United States With over 14000

members consistent support is key to its growth David

designed all Club mailers to increase organization renewal

rates With clear-cut calls to action inspiring graphics and

focused messaging the mailers have consistently proven highly

successful for the rapidly expanding organization

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER

AAC member Andrew Burr

o Please exclude my name from members-only mail offers from AAC Partnerso Please exclude my name from the online membership directory

YESmdashKEEP MY MEMBERSHIP ACTIVEI want to continue to receive AAC member benefitand keep supporting the climbing community

Auto Renew o Regular $70 o Junior $35 o Sr $45 o Joint $125o Regular $80 o Junior $45 (Under 29) o Sr $55 (Over 65) o Joint $135

Birthday (Required) ______________________________________________________o CanadaMexico add $30 for postage o Other foreign address add $40Irsquod like to support AAC Conservation Programs with a gifto $50 o $150 o $300 o $500 o Other __________________________Total Payment Amount $ ___________________Name as it appears on credit card _________________________________________CC ______________________________________________ Expiration __________Signature __________________________________________ CVV______________JOINT MEMBERSHIP DETAILS Only the Primary Member will receive annual publications and AAC mailings but both members have access to all other benefitsSecondary Member Name _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Email _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Birthday (Required) __________________________________________________

JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAMbull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membershipbull Never worry about your membership expiring

By checking one of the red boxes your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitation Automatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing communityMembers on Auto Renew are not eligible for current or future promotions

Visitamericanalpinecluborgrenew

Call303-384-0110 x110

MailCompleted renewal form

RENEW TODAYYour AAC Membership Expires [MEMBERSHIP EXPIRES]

Hi [INFORMAL]

This is your last mailing before your membership expires

Together we share a passion for climbing And as a member of the AAC yoursquore part of a tribe thatrsquos making a big difference We support each other with rescue benefits critical lodging facilities conservation projects advocacy grants discounts and more Without you none of this would be possible We depend on our dedicated members to accomplish more for our climbing community than we otherwise could alone Please continue to make a difference by renewing your membership today

Thanks for your support

Phil Powers Executive Director

TOGETHER WE ACCOMPLISH A LOT MORE

mojavecreativelabcom | 7

As a membership organization the American Alpine Club depends on

biannual campaigns aimed at significant increases in membership

As a joinrenewal insentive David designed a t-shirt and coinciding

phrase ldquoGet on the bus Wersquove got mountains to climbrdquo The t-shirt

prompted incredible feedback significantly increased brand profile

and saw the greatest single-month membership growth in the

112-year history of the Club

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT T-SHIRT CAMPAIGN

FREE T-SHIRT WITH MEMBERSHIP

For a limited time when you join the AAC community yoursquoll receive our new ldquoBus to Mountainsrdquo t-shirt for free Made with a soft polycotton blend this shirt inspires the start of an adventure Membership prices increase on October 1st but you can join the club at the current rate until November 1st t-shirt included

AAC Member Corey Rich

MailCompleted join form (includecredit card info or check)

Call303-384-0110 x110Mention code AAC-BUS

VisitamericanalpinecluborgjoinEnter promo code corresponding w t-shirt sizeAAC-BUS-XS AAC-BUS-S AAC-BUS-M AAC-BUS-LAAC-BUS-XL AAC-BUS-XXL

LIMITED TIME FREE T-SHIRT

[FULL NAME][ADDRESS 1][ADDRESS 2][CITY] [STATE] [ZIP CODE] [COUNTRY]

JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAM

bull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membership

bull Never worry about your membership expiringBy checking the box your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitationAutomatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing community

LIMITED TIME SPECIAL OFFERJoin the club by November 1st to save $5 and get a free t-shirt

DM_V2indd 1 9513 1214 PM

7000

9000

11000

13000

Members

bus t-shirt campaign

2012

2011

2010

2009

2013

8 | mojavecreativelabcom

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 2014

T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

2 0 1 4

[Front cover] Will it hold Marek Raganowicz

starts pitch 26 Bushido Great Trango Tower

(p297) Marcin Tomaszewski [This page]

Quinn Brett and Prairie Kearney in Greenland

The big towers above Baronet (left) and

Baron (right) (p182) John Dickey

T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

E x e c u t i v e E d i t o rDougald MacDonald

S E N I O R E D I T O RLindsay Gr i f f in

A s s i s ta n t e d i t o rErik Rieger

A r t D i r e c t o rErik Rieger

p u b l i c at i o n s i n t e r nMichiko Arai

C o n t r i b u t i n g e d i t o r sFrederick O Johnson Club Act iv i t ies

David Stevenson Book Reviews

David Wilkes In Memoriam

I l l u s t r at i o n s a n d m a p sJeremy Coll ins Jesse Crock Joe Iurato

Mike Clel land Anna Ri l ing

I n d e x e r sRalph Ferrara Eve Tal lman

T r a n s l at o r sPeter Jensen-Choi Zbysek Cesenek

Tamotsu Nakamura Henry Pickford S imone Sturm Ekater ina Vorotnikova X ia Zhongming

R e g i o n a l c o n ta c t sSteve Gruhn Alaska Drew Brayshaw Rapahel

Slawinski Canada Sevi Bohorquez Sergio Ramiacuterez Carrascal Peru Damien Gi ldea

Antarct ica Rolando Gar ibott i Marcelo Scanu Daniel Seel iger Argent inaChi le Rajesh Gadgi l Har ish Kapadia India El izabeth

Hawley Rodolphe Popier R ichard Sal isbury Nepal Tamotsu Nakamura Hiroshi Hagiwara Japanese cl imbs Peter Jensen-Choi Korean cl imbs Anna Piunova Russia Taj ik istan and

Kyrgyzstan X ia Zhongming China

O n l i n e e d i t o r sDoug Hal ler Chr is Harr ington Joel Peach

Tom Pr igg Cr is Valer io

A d v i s o r y b o a r dAndrew Bisharat Kel ly Cordes Damien Gi ldea

Col in Haley Mark Richey Freddie Wilk inson Emily St i f ler Wolfe

W I T H H E A R T F E LT T H A N K S T ODavid Boersma Claude Gardien Maro

Lablance Er ik Lambert Anna Piunova Tucker and al l AAJ donors and supporters

[ T h i s p a g e ] A p p ro a c h i n g t h e Doublets in East Rosebud Canyon Montana (p127) Ian Cavanaugh

[This page] Whit Magro on the first one-day free ascent of Jaded Lady Mt Hooker Wyoming (p132) John Dickey

2 0 1 4 Volume 56 Issue 88

C O N T E N T S1 2 A n n a p u r n a b y U e l i S t e c k amp Ya n n i c k G r a z i a n iTwo extraordinary ascents of the south face

2 2 N o w e a k s h i t b y s c o t t a d a m s o nA 10-year obsession with the Mooses Tooth

3 2 K h u n ya n g C h h i s h E a s t b y H a n s j ouml r g A u e rThe first ascent of a Karakoram giant

3 8 L e a r n i n g t o w a l k b y r a p h a e l s l a w i n s k iLessons from past expeditions equal success on K6 West

4 5 G a m l a n g r a z i b y A n d y T y s o nExploring northern Myanmarrsquos mysterious mountains

5 2 Ta l u n g b y m a r e k H o l e c e kA favorite partner a final summit

5 8 W i l d s p o r t b y J o n at h a n s i e g r i s tThe future of American rock climbing lies far from the highway

6 4 P u r g at i o n b y C h r i s w r i g h tExploration and intrigue in Nepal

7 2 M o n t e S a r m i e n t o b y C a m i l o R a d aAfter 57 years Tierra del Fuegorsquos spellbinding peak gets a second ascent

R E C O N [ u n e x p l o r e d amp o v e r l o o k e d ]

7 8 T o w e r s o f W i n d a n d I c e b y C a m i l o r a d a amp J a c k M i l l e rThe Cordillera de Sarmiento of southern Chile

9 0 T h e W h i t n e y M a s s i f b y D o u g R o b i n s o n A m y N e s s amp M y l e s M o s e rClassic routes hot new lines and a blank canvas for the future

W E T H A N K T H E F O L L O W I N G F O RT H E I R G E N E R O U S F I N A N C I A L S U P P O R T

Douglas Beal lRichard Blum

Yvon ChouinardAnonymous

Kevin Duncan amp Duncan Family Foundat ion

Ken Ehrhart

Clark Gerhardt JrTodd Hoffman

David KochMark Kroese

McKibbenMerner Family- Foundat ion

Peter Metcalf

AnonymousNY Sect ion AAC

Mark amp Teresa RicheyDavid Riggs

Steve SchwartzSteven Swenson amp Ann Dalton

Doug and Maggie Walker

G R E A T R A N G E S F E L L O W S H I P

$ 1 0 0 0 0 +

$ 5 0 0 0 - $ 9 9 9 9

$ 2 5 0 0 - $ 4 9 9 9

$ 1 0 0 0 - $ 2 4 9 9Robert Anderson

Larry ArthurWil l iam Atk inson

Gai l BatesCOL Christopher Bates

Gal i BehVaclav Benes

Gordon A Benner MDLaur ie Berl iner

Tanya Bradby amp Mart in SlovacekJohn Bragg

Wesley BrownPaul BrunnerWil l iam BurdDeirdre Byers

Edmund amp Betsy Cabot Foundat ion

Robert J CampbellPeter Carter

Jeffrey CohenDouglas Colwell

Kevin CooneyMatt amp Charlotte Culberson

Karen DaubertJoseph DavidsonTom DegenhardtStanley Dempsey

David DingmanJennifer Dow MD

Jeff DozierRichard Draves

Jesse DwyerCharles Ei lers

H Newcomb Eldredge

Stuart El l isonLee Elman

Denise ElmerTerrence Engl ish

Phi l ip ErardTimothy Forbes

James FrankJames Frush

James amp Franziska GarrettBi l l Givens

David GoeddelAnonymous

Wayne amp Cynthia Gr i f f inRichard Gr i f f i th

Scot Hi l lmanMarley amp Jennifer Hodgson

Richard E Hoffman MDRobert Hyman amp Deborah

AtwoodThomas JansonJohn Kascenska

Wil l iam Krause MDEl len Lapham

Leo LebonPaul Lego

Gerald LofthouseJamie LoganGai l Loveman

Chris LynchBrent Manning

Edward MatthewsJames McCarthy

Peter McGannHacksaw

Paul MorrowTed Morton

Amy ParadisWil l Phi l l ips

James Pinter-LuckeJohn Pope

Matthew PruisEugene RehfeldLouis Reichardt

Prof John ReppyAndrea Resnick

Ryan RichMichael Ri leyCarey RobertsJoel RobinsonJohn Rudolph

Stephen Scof ieldGeorge Shaw

Jay SmithGeorge N Smith

Brian SohnAllen Steck

Robert amp Jennifer StephensonSeth Switzer

Pat amp Jack TackleThomas Tapl inDavid Thoenen

Mart in J TorresquinteroJohn Tracy

Dieter Von HennigJames Whit takerTodd Winzenr iedJoseph Yannuzzi

Rob Ziegler

Warren AdelmanSteve BarrettGeorge Basch

Sherman Bul l MDThomas Burch

John CattoMike Coll ins

James Donin iJames amp Cheryl Duckworth

Jim EdwardsDan Emmett

Charlotte FoxMari lyn Geninatt i

Peter Sam Addis amp Gus GoldmanSyed HaiderRobert Hal lHelene Hi l l

Michael HodgesThomas Hornbein MD

Mark KassnerPhi l Lakin Jr

George Lowe I I IJeff Mart inAnonymous

Linda McMil lan

James Morr isseyMir iam Nelson amp Kinloch Earle

David OlsenCharles Peck

Marshal l PetersonCharles Sassara I I I

Howard SeboldAlan Spielberg

Bob StreetPaul Underwood

Theodore WeickerJohn (Jed) Wil l iamson

Keegan Young

Ansara Family Fund Yonsuk Derby

Charles Fle ischmanBruce Franks

Gerald Gal lwasSandy Hi l l

Louis Kasischke

George McCownAmy Meredith

Vanessa OrsquoBr ienWolf Riehle

Cody J SmithTravis Spi tzer

Wil l iam amp Barbra Straka

Theodore Stre ibertPeter Sul ick

Lawrence True amp Linda BrownRonald Ulr ich

The Estate of Paul Wiseman

In Memory of Charl ie Fowler amp Randy Grandstaff

Gordon A Benner MDRobert Branch

Yvon ChouinardChristopher Clarke

Dan CoxBi l l Cox

Phi l ip Erard

Jim FrushRyland Gardner

Stephen GeremiaWayne and Cynthia Gr i f f in

Richard Gr i f f i thDavid Harrah

Richard E Hoffman MDJohn KascenskaLouis Kasischke

Mike LewisDougald MacDonaldMary Ann MatthewsPeter McGann MD

Mona ReynoldsSamuel Si lverste in MD

Theodore Stre ibertTimothy Wil t

[This page] If yoursquore climbing Cerro Mariposa therersquos only one approach Will Stanhope a n d M a rc-A n d re Le c l e rc paddle out from the wall (p224) Matt Van Biene

F R I E N D S O F T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

mojavecreativelabcom | 9

In celebration of the worldrsquos greatest climber the American

Alpine Club is hosting itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside many

of the most influential people in the outdoor industry Reinhold

Messner Chouinard will keynote the NYC event to be attended

by nearly 600 people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic

Designer David has branded the entire event

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)

10 | mojavecreativelabcom

Outdoor Retailer is the premiere trade show of outdoor industry

brands throughout the world held annually in Salt Lake City

Utah As the American Alpine Clubrsquos Graphic Designer David

created many different pieces of creative for the the event in

partnership with Adidas and Petzl On display at the event were

Davidrsquos work on brochures magazines tradeshow signage

posters gift cards and more

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB - ADIDASPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER

SHOW SPECIALJOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR AND GET AN

ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD

a Redstone CO Carlo Traversi

JOIN AT ADIDASBOOTH 1009

AAC_ORADIDASPOSTER_FINAL_070914indd 1 71514 557 PM

Canrsquot make it to the booth Join the Club online at the pro ratemdashoffer valid Aug amp Sept only

Visit americanalpinecluborgjoin choose regular membership category amp enter code ORSM14AAC

Good for $25 off regular membership price ($80)

Expires 93014

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB VIP $25 OFF

AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 2 71714 512 PM

STOP BY THE ADIDAS OUTDOOR BOOTH (1009) AND JOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR ANDGET AN ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD

AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 1 71714 512 PM

mojavecreativelabcom | 11

Mojave Creative Lab is incredibly invested in supporting non-profit

organizations aligned with our beliefs and interests Thatrsquos why we

work pro-bono with Paradox Sports PS is a non-profit committed

to providing inspiration opportunities and specialized adaptive

equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in

human-powered sports Mojave Creative Lab was founded upon

creativity and the love of outdoors Offering our services for free to

an organization with a similar mission was a no-brainer

BRAND PARADOX SPORTSPROJECT POSTCARD DESIGN

ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM

The Paradox Sports Adaptive Climbing Curriculum includes a comprehensive manual clinic and equipment package The curriculum provides qualified instruction on how to provide a rewarding climbing experience for persons with a wide array of physical disabilities while developing inclusive supportive communities for adaptive sport and

emphasizes risk management The curriculum explains the specifics for creating and curating this program at climbing gyms universities adaptive sports agencies outdoor clubs hospitals and community rec programs with a focus on physical adaptation with paralysis amputation deafnessblindness neurological disorders PTSD and TBI

PARADOX SPORTS1911 11th St bull Suite 201 bull Boulder CO 80302 bull (720) 638-5593 bull paradoxsportsorg

paradoxsportsorgcausesparadox-curriculum

ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM

12 | mojavecreativelabcom

Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber Jeff

Lowe in his final act For the past ten years Jeff has been battling

an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS Mojave is

proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for

Jeffrsquorsquos much anticipated film Metanoia premeiring this November

at Banff Mountain Film Festival MCL is a proud sponsor of the film

BRAND JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATIONPROJECT TRIBUTE POSTER

mojavecreativelabcom | 13

Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of

its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the

event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would

garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While

working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was

featured on USA Today and many other online publications

BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC

VIEW ONLINE

14 | mojavecreativelabcom

Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the

Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big

Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media

presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed

a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook

page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative

and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew

substantially over the course of the contest

BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 15

Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new

layering system By combining product placement and action

photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience

and simultaniously communicated the new product line

BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD

copy Tyler Stableford Photography

MOUNTAIN

S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk

Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail

The Result

Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip

16 | mojavecreativelabcom

In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site

ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear

review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly

and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear

review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or

allows for such user-interaction

BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 17

At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics

to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This

original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial

license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by

the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma

mojavecreativelabcom

BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

desert dweller

W E A RM J AV E

18 | mojavecreativelabcom

Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom

Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma

CONTACT

mojavecreativelabcom

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

mojavecreativelabcom | 19

Page 9: Mojave Creative Lab

As a membership organization the American Alpine Club depends on

biannual campaigns aimed at significant increases in membership

As a joinrenewal insentive David designed a t-shirt and coinciding

phrase ldquoGet on the bus Wersquove got mountains to climbrdquo The t-shirt

prompted incredible feedback significantly increased brand profile

and saw the greatest single-month membership growth in the

112-year history of the Club

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT T-SHIRT CAMPAIGN

FREE T-SHIRT WITH MEMBERSHIP

For a limited time when you join the AAC community yoursquoll receive our new ldquoBus to Mountainsrdquo t-shirt for free Made with a soft polycotton blend this shirt inspires the start of an adventure Membership prices increase on October 1st but you can join the club at the current rate until November 1st t-shirt included

AAC Member Corey Rich

MailCompleted join form (includecredit card info or check)

Call303-384-0110 x110Mention code AAC-BUS

VisitamericanalpinecluborgjoinEnter promo code corresponding w t-shirt sizeAAC-BUS-XS AAC-BUS-S AAC-BUS-M AAC-BUS-LAAC-BUS-XL AAC-BUS-XXL

LIMITED TIME FREE T-SHIRT

[FULL NAME][ADDRESS 1][ADDRESS 2][CITY] [STATE] [ZIP CODE] [COUNTRY]

JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAM

bull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membership

bull Never worry about your membership expiringBy checking the box your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitationAutomatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing community

LIMITED TIME SPECIAL OFFERJoin the club by November 1st to save $5 and get a free t-shirt

DM_V2indd 1 9513 1214 PM

7000

9000

11000

13000

Members

bus t-shirt campaign

2012

2011

2010

2009

2013

8 | mojavecreativelabcom

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 2014

T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

2 0 1 4

[Front cover] Will it hold Marek Raganowicz

starts pitch 26 Bushido Great Trango Tower

(p297) Marcin Tomaszewski [This page]

Quinn Brett and Prairie Kearney in Greenland

The big towers above Baronet (left) and

Baron (right) (p182) John Dickey

T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

E x e c u t i v e E d i t o rDougald MacDonald

S E N I O R E D I T O RLindsay Gr i f f in

A s s i s ta n t e d i t o rErik Rieger

A r t D i r e c t o rErik Rieger

p u b l i c at i o n s i n t e r nMichiko Arai

C o n t r i b u t i n g e d i t o r sFrederick O Johnson Club Act iv i t ies

David Stevenson Book Reviews

David Wilkes In Memoriam

I l l u s t r at i o n s a n d m a p sJeremy Coll ins Jesse Crock Joe Iurato

Mike Clel land Anna Ri l ing

I n d e x e r sRalph Ferrara Eve Tal lman

T r a n s l at o r sPeter Jensen-Choi Zbysek Cesenek

Tamotsu Nakamura Henry Pickford S imone Sturm Ekater ina Vorotnikova X ia Zhongming

R e g i o n a l c o n ta c t sSteve Gruhn Alaska Drew Brayshaw Rapahel

Slawinski Canada Sevi Bohorquez Sergio Ramiacuterez Carrascal Peru Damien Gi ldea

Antarct ica Rolando Gar ibott i Marcelo Scanu Daniel Seel iger Argent inaChi le Rajesh Gadgi l Har ish Kapadia India El izabeth

Hawley Rodolphe Popier R ichard Sal isbury Nepal Tamotsu Nakamura Hiroshi Hagiwara Japanese cl imbs Peter Jensen-Choi Korean cl imbs Anna Piunova Russia Taj ik istan and

Kyrgyzstan X ia Zhongming China

O n l i n e e d i t o r sDoug Hal ler Chr is Harr ington Joel Peach

Tom Pr igg Cr is Valer io

A d v i s o r y b o a r dAndrew Bisharat Kel ly Cordes Damien Gi ldea

Col in Haley Mark Richey Freddie Wilk inson Emily St i f ler Wolfe

W I T H H E A R T F E LT T H A N K S T ODavid Boersma Claude Gardien Maro

Lablance Er ik Lambert Anna Piunova Tucker and al l AAJ donors and supporters

[ T h i s p a g e ] A p p ro a c h i n g t h e Doublets in East Rosebud Canyon Montana (p127) Ian Cavanaugh

[This page] Whit Magro on the first one-day free ascent of Jaded Lady Mt Hooker Wyoming (p132) John Dickey

2 0 1 4 Volume 56 Issue 88

C O N T E N T S1 2 A n n a p u r n a b y U e l i S t e c k amp Ya n n i c k G r a z i a n iTwo extraordinary ascents of the south face

2 2 N o w e a k s h i t b y s c o t t a d a m s o nA 10-year obsession with the Mooses Tooth

3 2 K h u n ya n g C h h i s h E a s t b y H a n s j ouml r g A u e rThe first ascent of a Karakoram giant

3 8 L e a r n i n g t o w a l k b y r a p h a e l s l a w i n s k iLessons from past expeditions equal success on K6 West

4 5 G a m l a n g r a z i b y A n d y T y s o nExploring northern Myanmarrsquos mysterious mountains

5 2 Ta l u n g b y m a r e k H o l e c e kA favorite partner a final summit

5 8 W i l d s p o r t b y J o n at h a n s i e g r i s tThe future of American rock climbing lies far from the highway

6 4 P u r g at i o n b y C h r i s w r i g h tExploration and intrigue in Nepal

7 2 M o n t e S a r m i e n t o b y C a m i l o R a d aAfter 57 years Tierra del Fuegorsquos spellbinding peak gets a second ascent

R E C O N [ u n e x p l o r e d amp o v e r l o o k e d ]

7 8 T o w e r s o f W i n d a n d I c e b y C a m i l o r a d a amp J a c k M i l l e rThe Cordillera de Sarmiento of southern Chile

9 0 T h e W h i t n e y M a s s i f b y D o u g R o b i n s o n A m y N e s s amp M y l e s M o s e rClassic routes hot new lines and a blank canvas for the future

W E T H A N K T H E F O L L O W I N G F O RT H E I R G E N E R O U S F I N A N C I A L S U P P O R T

Douglas Beal lRichard Blum

Yvon ChouinardAnonymous

Kevin Duncan amp Duncan Family Foundat ion

Ken Ehrhart

Clark Gerhardt JrTodd Hoffman

David KochMark Kroese

McKibbenMerner Family- Foundat ion

Peter Metcalf

AnonymousNY Sect ion AAC

Mark amp Teresa RicheyDavid Riggs

Steve SchwartzSteven Swenson amp Ann Dalton

Doug and Maggie Walker

G R E A T R A N G E S F E L L O W S H I P

$ 1 0 0 0 0 +

$ 5 0 0 0 - $ 9 9 9 9

$ 2 5 0 0 - $ 4 9 9 9

$ 1 0 0 0 - $ 2 4 9 9Robert Anderson

Larry ArthurWil l iam Atk inson

Gai l BatesCOL Christopher Bates

Gal i BehVaclav Benes

Gordon A Benner MDLaur ie Berl iner

Tanya Bradby amp Mart in SlovacekJohn Bragg

Wesley BrownPaul BrunnerWil l iam BurdDeirdre Byers

Edmund amp Betsy Cabot Foundat ion

Robert J CampbellPeter Carter

Jeffrey CohenDouglas Colwell

Kevin CooneyMatt amp Charlotte Culberson

Karen DaubertJoseph DavidsonTom DegenhardtStanley Dempsey

David DingmanJennifer Dow MD

Jeff DozierRichard Draves

Jesse DwyerCharles Ei lers

H Newcomb Eldredge

Stuart El l isonLee Elman

Denise ElmerTerrence Engl ish

Phi l ip ErardTimothy Forbes

James FrankJames Frush

James amp Franziska GarrettBi l l Givens

David GoeddelAnonymous

Wayne amp Cynthia Gr i f f inRichard Gr i f f i th

Scot Hi l lmanMarley amp Jennifer Hodgson

Richard E Hoffman MDRobert Hyman amp Deborah

AtwoodThomas JansonJohn Kascenska

Wil l iam Krause MDEl len Lapham

Leo LebonPaul Lego

Gerald LofthouseJamie LoganGai l Loveman

Chris LynchBrent Manning

Edward MatthewsJames McCarthy

Peter McGannHacksaw

Paul MorrowTed Morton

Amy ParadisWil l Phi l l ips

James Pinter-LuckeJohn Pope

Matthew PruisEugene RehfeldLouis Reichardt

Prof John ReppyAndrea Resnick

Ryan RichMichael Ri leyCarey RobertsJoel RobinsonJohn Rudolph

Stephen Scof ieldGeorge Shaw

Jay SmithGeorge N Smith

Brian SohnAllen Steck

Robert amp Jennifer StephensonSeth Switzer

Pat amp Jack TackleThomas Tapl inDavid Thoenen

Mart in J TorresquinteroJohn Tracy

Dieter Von HennigJames Whit takerTodd Winzenr iedJoseph Yannuzzi

Rob Ziegler

Warren AdelmanSteve BarrettGeorge Basch

Sherman Bul l MDThomas Burch

John CattoMike Coll ins

James Donin iJames amp Cheryl Duckworth

Jim EdwardsDan Emmett

Charlotte FoxMari lyn Geninatt i

Peter Sam Addis amp Gus GoldmanSyed HaiderRobert Hal lHelene Hi l l

Michael HodgesThomas Hornbein MD

Mark KassnerPhi l Lakin Jr

George Lowe I I IJeff Mart inAnonymous

Linda McMil lan

James Morr isseyMir iam Nelson amp Kinloch Earle

David OlsenCharles Peck

Marshal l PetersonCharles Sassara I I I

Howard SeboldAlan Spielberg

Bob StreetPaul Underwood

Theodore WeickerJohn (Jed) Wil l iamson

Keegan Young

Ansara Family Fund Yonsuk Derby

Charles Fle ischmanBruce Franks

Gerald Gal lwasSandy Hi l l

Louis Kasischke

George McCownAmy Meredith

Vanessa OrsquoBr ienWolf Riehle

Cody J SmithTravis Spi tzer

Wil l iam amp Barbra Straka

Theodore Stre ibertPeter Sul ick

Lawrence True amp Linda BrownRonald Ulr ich

The Estate of Paul Wiseman

In Memory of Charl ie Fowler amp Randy Grandstaff

Gordon A Benner MDRobert Branch

Yvon ChouinardChristopher Clarke

Dan CoxBi l l Cox

Phi l ip Erard

Jim FrushRyland Gardner

Stephen GeremiaWayne and Cynthia Gr i f f in

Richard Gr i f f i thDavid Harrah

Richard E Hoffman MDJohn KascenskaLouis Kasischke

Mike LewisDougald MacDonaldMary Ann MatthewsPeter McGann MD

Mona ReynoldsSamuel Si lverste in MD

Theodore Stre ibertTimothy Wil t

[This page] If yoursquore climbing Cerro Mariposa therersquos only one approach Will Stanhope a n d M a rc-A n d re Le c l e rc paddle out from the wall (p224) Matt Van Biene

F R I E N D S O F T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

mojavecreativelabcom | 9

In celebration of the worldrsquos greatest climber the American

Alpine Club is hosting itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside many

of the most influential people in the outdoor industry Reinhold

Messner Chouinard will keynote the NYC event to be attended

by nearly 600 people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic

Designer David has branded the entire event

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)

10 | mojavecreativelabcom

Outdoor Retailer is the premiere trade show of outdoor industry

brands throughout the world held annually in Salt Lake City

Utah As the American Alpine Clubrsquos Graphic Designer David

created many different pieces of creative for the the event in

partnership with Adidas and Petzl On display at the event were

Davidrsquos work on brochures magazines tradeshow signage

posters gift cards and more

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB - ADIDASPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER

SHOW SPECIALJOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR AND GET AN

ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD

a Redstone CO Carlo Traversi

JOIN AT ADIDASBOOTH 1009

AAC_ORADIDASPOSTER_FINAL_070914indd 1 71514 557 PM

Canrsquot make it to the booth Join the Club online at the pro ratemdashoffer valid Aug amp Sept only

Visit americanalpinecluborgjoin choose regular membership category amp enter code ORSM14AAC

Good for $25 off regular membership price ($80)

Expires 93014

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB VIP $25 OFF

AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 2 71714 512 PM

STOP BY THE ADIDAS OUTDOOR BOOTH (1009) AND JOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR ANDGET AN ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD

AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 1 71714 512 PM

mojavecreativelabcom | 11

Mojave Creative Lab is incredibly invested in supporting non-profit

organizations aligned with our beliefs and interests Thatrsquos why we

work pro-bono with Paradox Sports PS is a non-profit committed

to providing inspiration opportunities and specialized adaptive

equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in

human-powered sports Mojave Creative Lab was founded upon

creativity and the love of outdoors Offering our services for free to

an organization with a similar mission was a no-brainer

BRAND PARADOX SPORTSPROJECT POSTCARD DESIGN

ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM

The Paradox Sports Adaptive Climbing Curriculum includes a comprehensive manual clinic and equipment package The curriculum provides qualified instruction on how to provide a rewarding climbing experience for persons with a wide array of physical disabilities while developing inclusive supportive communities for adaptive sport and

emphasizes risk management The curriculum explains the specifics for creating and curating this program at climbing gyms universities adaptive sports agencies outdoor clubs hospitals and community rec programs with a focus on physical adaptation with paralysis amputation deafnessblindness neurological disorders PTSD and TBI

PARADOX SPORTS1911 11th St bull Suite 201 bull Boulder CO 80302 bull (720) 638-5593 bull paradoxsportsorg

paradoxsportsorgcausesparadox-curriculum

ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM

12 | mojavecreativelabcom

Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber Jeff

Lowe in his final act For the past ten years Jeff has been battling

an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS Mojave is

proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for

Jeffrsquorsquos much anticipated film Metanoia premeiring this November

at Banff Mountain Film Festival MCL is a proud sponsor of the film

BRAND JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATIONPROJECT TRIBUTE POSTER

mojavecreativelabcom | 13

Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of

its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the

event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would

garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While

working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was

featured on USA Today and many other online publications

BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC

VIEW ONLINE

14 | mojavecreativelabcom

Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the

Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big

Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media

presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed

a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook

page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative

and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew

substantially over the course of the contest

BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 15

Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new

layering system By combining product placement and action

photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience

and simultaniously communicated the new product line

BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD

copy Tyler Stableford Photography

MOUNTAIN

S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk

Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail

The Result

Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip

16 | mojavecreativelabcom

In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site

ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear

review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly

and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear

review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or

allows for such user-interaction

BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 17

At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics

to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This

original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial

license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by

the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma

mojavecreativelabcom

BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

desert dweller

W E A RM J AV E

18 | mojavecreativelabcom

Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom

Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma

CONTACT

mojavecreativelabcom

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

mojavecreativelabcom | 19

Page 10: Mojave Creative Lab

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 2014

T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

2 0 1 4

[Front cover] Will it hold Marek Raganowicz

starts pitch 26 Bushido Great Trango Tower

(p297) Marcin Tomaszewski [This page]

Quinn Brett and Prairie Kearney in Greenland

The big towers above Baronet (left) and

Baron (right) (p182) John Dickey

T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

E x e c u t i v e E d i t o rDougald MacDonald

S E N I O R E D I T O RLindsay Gr i f f in

A s s i s ta n t e d i t o rErik Rieger

A r t D i r e c t o rErik Rieger

p u b l i c at i o n s i n t e r nMichiko Arai

C o n t r i b u t i n g e d i t o r sFrederick O Johnson Club Act iv i t ies

David Stevenson Book Reviews

David Wilkes In Memoriam

I l l u s t r at i o n s a n d m a p sJeremy Coll ins Jesse Crock Joe Iurato

Mike Clel land Anna Ri l ing

I n d e x e r sRalph Ferrara Eve Tal lman

T r a n s l at o r sPeter Jensen-Choi Zbysek Cesenek

Tamotsu Nakamura Henry Pickford S imone Sturm Ekater ina Vorotnikova X ia Zhongming

R e g i o n a l c o n ta c t sSteve Gruhn Alaska Drew Brayshaw Rapahel

Slawinski Canada Sevi Bohorquez Sergio Ramiacuterez Carrascal Peru Damien Gi ldea

Antarct ica Rolando Gar ibott i Marcelo Scanu Daniel Seel iger Argent inaChi le Rajesh Gadgi l Har ish Kapadia India El izabeth

Hawley Rodolphe Popier R ichard Sal isbury Nepal Tamotsu Nakamura Hiroshi Hagiwara Japanese cl imbs Peter Jensen-Choi Korean cl imbs Anna Piunova Russia Taj ik istan and

Kyrgyzstan X ia Zhongming China

O n l i n e e d i t o r sDoug Hal ler Chr is Harr ington Joel Peach

Tom Pr igg Cr is Valer io

A d v i s o r y b o a r dAndrew Bisharat Kel ly Cordes Damien Gi ldea

Col in Haley Mark Richey Freddie Wilk inson Emily St i f ler Wolfe

W I T H H E A R T F E LT T H A N K S T ODavid Boersma Claude Gardien Maro

Lablance Er ik Lambert Anna Piunova Tucker and al l AAJ donors and supporters

[ T h i s p a g e ] A p p ro a c h i n g t h e Doublets in East Rosebud Canyon Montana (p127) Ian Cavanaugh

[This page] Whit Magro on the first one-day free ascent of Jaded Lady Mt Hooker Wyoming (p132) John Dickey

2 0 1 4 Volume 56 Issue 88

C O N T E N T S1 2 A n n a p u r n a b y U e l i S t e c k amp Ya n n i c k G r a z i a n iTwo extraordinary ascents of the south face

2 2 N o w e a k s h i t b y s c o t t a d a m s o nA 10-year obsession with the Mooses Tooth

3 2 K h u n ya n g C h h i s h E a s t b y H a n s j ouml r g A u e rThe first ascent of a Karakoram giant

3 8 L e a r n i n g t o w a l k b y r a p h a e l s l a w i n s k iLessons from past expeditions equal success on K6 West

4 5 G a m l a n g r a z i b y A n d y T y s o nExploring northern Myanmarrsquos mysterious mountains

5 2 Ta l u n g b y m a r e k H o l e c e kA favorite partner a final summit

5 8 W i l d s p o r t b y J o n at h a n s i e g r i s tThe future of American rock climbing lies far from the highway

6 4 P u r g at i o n b y C h r i s w r i g h tExploration and intrigue in Nepal

7 2 M o n t e S a r m i e n t o b y C a m i l o R a d aAfter 57 years Tierra del Fuegorsquos spellbinding peak gets a second ascent

R E C O N [ u n e x p l o r e d amp o v e r l o o k e d ]

7 8 T o w e r s o f W i n d a n d I c e b y C a m i l o r a d a amp J a c k M i l l e rThe Cordillera de Sarmiento of southern Chile

9 0 T h e W h i t n e y M a s s i f b y D o u g R o b i n s o n A m y N e s s amp M y l e s M o s e rClassic routes hot new lines and a blank canvas for the future

W E T H A N K T H E F O L L O W I N G F O RT H E I R G E N E R O U S F I N A N C I A L S U P P O R T

Douglas Beal lRichard Blum

Yvon ChouinardAnonymous

Kevin Duncan amp Duncan Family Foundat ion

Ken Ehrhart

Clark Gerhardt JrTodd Hoffman

David KochMark Kroese

McKibbenMerner Family- Foundat ion

Peter Metcalf

AnonymousNY Sect ion AAC

Mark amp Teresa RicheyDavid Riggs

Steve SchwartzSteven Swenson amp Ann Dalton

Doug and Maggie Walker

G R E A T R A N G E S F E L L O W S H I P

$ 1 0 0 0 0 +

$ 5 0 0 0 - $ 9 9 9 9

$ 2 5 0 0 - $ 4 9 9 9

$ 1 0 0 0 - $ 2 4 9 9Robert Anderson

Larry ArthurWil l iam Atk inson

Gai l BatesCOL Christopher Bates

Gal i BehVaclav Benes

Gordon A Benner MDLaur ie Berl iner

Tanya Bradby amp Mart in SlovacekJohn Bragg

Wesley BrownPaul BrunnerWil l iam BurdDeirdre Byers

Edmund amp Betsy Cabot Foundat ion

Robert J CampbellPeter Carter

Jeffrey CohenDouglas Colwell

Kevin CooneyMatt amp Charlotte Culberson

Karen DaubertJoseph DavidsonTom DegenhardtStanley Dempsey

David DingmanJennifer Dow MD

Jeff DozierRichard Draves

Jesse DwyerCharles Ei lers

H Newcomb Eldredge

Stuart El l isonLee Elman

Denise ElmerTerrence Engl ish

Phi l ip ErardTimothy Forbes

James FrankJames Frush

James amp Franziska GarrettBi l l Givens

David GoeddelAnonymous

Wayne amp Cynthia Gr i f f inRichard Gr i f f i th

Scot Hi l lmanMarley amp Jennifer Hodgson

Richard E Hoffman MDRobert Hyman amp Deborah

AtwoodThomas JansonJohn Kascenska

Wil l iam Krause MDEl len Lapham

Leo LebonPaul Lego

Gerald LofthouseJamie LoganGai l Loveman

Chris LynchBrent Manning

Edward MatthewsJames McCarthy

Peter McGannHacksaw

Paul MorrowTed Morton

Amy ParadisWil l Phi l l ips

James Pinter-LuckeJohn Pope

Matthew PruisEugene RehfeldLouis Reichardt

Prof John ReppyAndrea Resnick

Ryan RichMichael Ri leyCarey RobertsJoel RobinsonJohn Rudolph

Stephen Scof ieldGeorge Shaw

Jay SmithGeorge N Smith

Brian SohnAllen Steck

Robert amp Jennifer StephensonSeth Switzer

Pat amp Jack TackleThomas Tapl inDavid Thoenen

Mart in J TorresquinteroJohn Tracy

Dieter Von HennigJames Whit takerTodd Winzenr iedJoseph Yannuzzi

Rob Ziegler

Warren AdelmanSteve BarrettGeorge Basch

Sherman Bul l MDThomas Burch

John CattoMike Coll ins

James Donin iJames amp Cheryl Duckworth

Jim EdwardsDan Emmett

Charlotte FoxMari lyn Geninatt i

Peter Sam Addis amp Gus GoldmanSyed HaiderRobert Hal lHelene Hi l l

Michael HodgesThomas Hornbein MD

Mark KassnerPhi l Lakin Jr

George Lowe I I IJeff Mart inAnonymous

Linda McMil lan

James Morr isseyMir iam Nelson amp Kinloch Earle

David OlsenCharles Peck

Marshal l PetersonCharles Sassara I I I

Howard SeboldAlan Spielberg

Bob StreetPaul Underwood

Theodore WeickerJohn (Jed) Wil l iamson

Keegan Young

Ansara Family Fund Yonsuk Derby

Charles Fle ischmanBruce Franks

Gerald Gal lwasSandy Hi l l

Louis Kasischke

George McCownAmy Meredith

Vanessa OrsquoBr ienWolf Riehle

Cody J SmithTravis Spi tzer

Wil l iam amp Barbra Straka

Theodore Stre ibertPeter Sul ick

Lawrence True amp Linda BrownRonald Ulr ich

The Estate of Paul Wiseman

In Memory of Charl ie Fowler amp Randy Grandstaff

Gordon A Benner MDRobert Branch

Yvon ChouinardChristopher Clarke

Dan CoxBi l l Cox

Phi l ip Erard

Jim FrushRyland Gardner

Stephen GeremiaWayne and Cynthia Gr i f f in

Richard Gr i f f i thDavid Harrah

Richard E Hoffman MDJohn KascenskaLouis Kasischke

Mike LewisDougald MacDonaldMary Ann MatthewsPeter McGann MD

Mona ReynoldsSamuel Si lverste in MD

Theodore Stre ibertTimothy Wil t

[This page] If yoursquore climbing Cerro Mariposa therersquos only one approach Will Stanhope a n d M a rc-A n d re Le c l e rc paddle out from the wall (p224) Matt Van Biene

F R I E N D S O F T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L

mojavecreativelabcom | 9

In celebration of the worldrsquos greatest climber the American

Alpine Club is hosting itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside many

of the most influential people in the outdoor industry Reinhold

Messner Chouinard will keynote the NYC event to be attended

by nearly 600 people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic

Designer David has branded the entire event

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)

10 | mojavecreativelabcom

Outdoor Retailer is the premiere trade show of outdoor industry

brands throughout the world held annually in Salt Lake City

Utah As the American Alpine Clubrsquos Graphic Designer David

created many different pieces of creative for the the event in

partnership with Adidas and Petzl On display at the event were

Davidrsquos work on brochures magazines tradeshow signage

posters gift cards and more

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB - ADIDASPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER

SHOW SPECIALJOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR AND GET AN

ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD

a Redstone CO Carlo Traversi

JOIN AT ADIDASBOOTH 1009

AAC_ORADIDASPOSTER_FINAL_070914indd 1 71514 557 PM

Canrsquot make it to the booth Join the Club online at the pro ratemdashoffer valid Aug amp Sept only

Visit americanalpinecluborgjoin choose regular membership category amp enter code ORSM14AAC

Good for $25 off regular membership price ($80)

Expires 93014

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB VIP $25 OFF

AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 2 71714 512 PM

STOP BY THE ADIDAS OUTDOOR BOOTH (1009) AND JOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR ANDGET AN ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD

AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 1 71714 512 PM

mojavecreativelabcom | 11

Mojave Creative Lab is incredibly invested in supporting non-profit

organizations aligned with our beliefs and interests Thatrsquos why we

work pro-bono with Paradox Sports PS is a non-profit committed

to providing inspiration opportunities and specialized adaptive

equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in

human-powered sports Mojave Creative Lab was founded upon

creativity and the love of outdoors Offering our services for free to

an organization with a similar mission was a no-brainer

BRAND PARADOX SPORTSPROJECT POSTCARD DESIGN

ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM

The Paradox Sports Adaptive Climbing Curriculum includes a comprehensive manual clinic and equipment package The curriculum provides qualified instruction on how to provide a rewarding climbing experience for persons with a wide array of physical disabilities while developing inclusive supportive communities for adaptive sport and

emphasizes risk management The curriculum explains the specifics for creating and curating this program at climbing gyms universities adaptive sports agencies outdoor clubs hospitals and community rec programs with a focus on physical adaptation with paralysis amputation deafnessblindness neurological disorders PTSD and TBI

PARADOX SPORTS1911 11th St bull Suite 201 bull Boulder CO 80302 bull (720) 638-5593 bull paradoxsportsorg

paradoxsportsorgcausesparadox-curriculum

ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM

12 | mojavecreativelabcom

Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber Jeff

Lowe in his final act For the past ten years Jeff has been battling

an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS Mojave is

proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for

Jeffrsquorsquos much anticipated film Metanoia premeiring this November

at Banff Mountain Film Festival MCL is a proud sponsor of the film

BRAND JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATIONPROJECT TRIBUTE POSTER

mojavecreativelabcom | 13

Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of

its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the

event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would

garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While

working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was

featured on USA Today and many other online publications

BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC

VIEW ONLINE

14 | mojavecreativelabcom

Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the

Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big

Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media

presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed

a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook

page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative

and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew

substantially over the course of the contest

BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 15

Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new

layering system By combining product placement and action

photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience

and simultaniously communicated the new product line

BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD

copy Tyler Stableford Photography

MOUNTAIN

S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk

Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail

The Result

Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip

16 | mojavecreativelabcom

In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site

ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear

review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly

and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear

review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or

allows for such user-interaction

BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 17

At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics

to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This

original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial

license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by

the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma

mojavecreativelabcom

BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

desert dweller

W E A RM J AV E

18 | mojavecreativelabcom

Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom

Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma

CONTACT

mojavecreativelabcom

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

mojavecreativelabcom | 19

Page 11: Mojave Creative Lab

In celebration of the worldrsquos greatest climber the American

Alpine Club is hosting itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside many

of the most influential people in the outdoor industry Reinhold

Messner Chouinard will keynote the NYC event to be attended

by nearly 600 people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic

Designer David has branded the entire event

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)

10 | mojavecreativelabcom

Outdoor Retailer is the premiere trade show of outdoor industry

brands throughout the world held annually in Salt Lake City

Utah As the American Alpine Clubrsquos Graphic Designer David

created many different pieces of creative for the the event in

partnership with Adidas and Petzl On display at the event were

Davidrsquos work on brochures magazines tradeshow signage

posters gift cards and more

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB - ADIDASPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER

SHOW SPECIALJOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR AND GET AN

ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD

a Redstone CO Carlo Traversi

JOIN AT ADIDASBOOTH 1009

AAC_ORADIDASPOSTER_FINAL_070914indd 1 71514 557 PM

Canrsquot make it to the booth Join the Club online at the pro ratemdashoffer valid Aug amp Sept only

Visit americanalpinecluborgjoin choose regular membership category amp enter code ORSM14AAC

Good for $25 off regular membership price ($80)

Expires 93014

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB VIP $25 OFF

AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 2 71714 512 PM

STOP BY THE ADIDAS OUTDOOR BOOTH (1009) AND JOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR ANDGET AN ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD

AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 1 71714 512 PM

mojavecreativelabcom | 11

Mojave Creative Lab is incredibly invested in supporting non-profit

organizations aligned with our beliefs and interests Thatrsquos why we

work pro-bono with Paradox Sports PS is a non-profit committed

to providing inspiration opportunities and specialized adaptive

equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in

human-powered sports Mojave Creative Lab was founded upon

creativity and the love of outdoors Offering our services for free to

an organization with a similar mission was a no-brainer

BRAND PARADOX SPORTSPROJECT POSTCARD DESIGN

ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM

The Paradox Sports Adaptive Climbing Curriculum includes a comprehensive manual clinic and equipment package The curriculum provides qualified instruction on how to provide a rewarding climbing experience for persons with a wide array of physical disabilities while developing inclusive supportive communities for adaptive sport and

emphasizes risk management The curriculum explains the specifics for creating and curating this program at climbing gyms universities adaptive sports agencies outdoor clubs hospitals and community rec programs with a focus on physical adaptation with paralysis amputation deafnessblindness neurological disorders PTSD and TBI

PARADOX SPORTS1911 11th St bull Suite 201 bull Boulder CO 80302 bull (720) 638-5593 bull paradoxsportsorg

paradoxsportsorgcausesparadox-curriculum

ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM

12 | mojavecreativelabcom

Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber Jeff

Lowe in his final act For the past ten years Jeff has been battling

an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS Mojave is

proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for

Jeffrsquorsquos much anticipated film Metanoia premeiring this November

at Banff Mountain Film Festival MCL is a proud sponsor of the film

BRAND JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATIONPROJECT TRIBUTE POSTER

mojavecreativelabcom | 13

Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of

its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the

event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would

garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While

working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was

featured on USA Today and many other online publications

BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC

VIEW ONLINE

14 | mojavecreativelabcom

Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the

Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big

Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media

presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed

a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook

page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative

and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew

substantially over the course of the contest

BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 15

Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new

layering system By combining product placement and action

photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience

and simultaniously communicated the new product line

BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD

copy Tyler Stableford Photography

MOUNTAIN

S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk

Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail

The Result

Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip

16 | mojavecreativelabcom

In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site

ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear

review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly

and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear

review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or

allows for such user-interaction

BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 17

At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics

to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This

original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial

license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by

the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma

mojavecreativelabcom

BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

desert dweller

W E A RM J AV E

18 | mojavecreativelabcom

Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom

Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma

CONTACT

mojavecreativelabcom

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

mojavecreativelabcom | 19

Page 12: Mojave Creative Lab

Outdoor Retailer is the premiere trade show of outdoor industry

brands throughout the world held annually in Salt Lake City

Utah As the American Alpine Clubrsquos Graphic Designer David

created many different pieces of creative for the the event in

partnership with Adidas and Petzl On display at the event were

Davidrsquos work on brochures magazines tradeshow signage

posters gift cards and more

BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB - ADIDASPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER

SHOW SPECIALJOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR AND GET AN

ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD

a Redstone CO Carlo Traversi

JOIN AT ADIDASBOOTH 1009

AAC_ORADIDASPOSTER_FINAL_070914indd 1 71514 557 PM

Canrsquot make it to the booth Join the Club online at the pro ratemdashoffer valid Aug amp Sept only

Visit americanalpinecluborgjoin choose regular membership category amp enter code ORSM14AAC

Good for $25 off regular membership price ($80)

Expires 93014

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB VIP $25 OFF

AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 2 71714 512 PM

STOP BY THE ADIDAS OUTDOOR BOOTH (1009) AND JOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR ANDGET AN ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD

AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 1 71714 512 PM

mojavecreativelabcom | 11

Mojave Creative Lab is incredibly invested in supporting non-profit

organizations aligned with our beliefs and interests Thatrsquos why we

work pro-bono with Paradox Sports PS is a non-profit committed

to providing inspiration opportunities and specialized adaptive

equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in

human-powered sports Mojave Creative Lab was founded upon

creativity and the love of outdoors Offering our services for free to

an organization with a similar mission was a no-brainer

BRAND PARADOX SPORTSPROJECT POSTCARD DESIGN

ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM

The Paradox Sports Adaptive Climbing Curriculum includes a comprehensive manual clinic and equipment package The curriculum provides qualified instruction on how to provide a rewarding climbing experience for persons with a wide array of physical disabilities while developing inclusive supportive communities for adaptive sport and

emphasizes risk management The curriculum explains the specifics for creating and curating this program at climbing gyms universities adaptive sports agencies outdoor clubs hospitals and community rec programs with a focus on physical adaptation with paralysis amputation deafnessblindness neurological disorders PTSD and TBI

PARADOX SPORTS1911 11th St bull Suite 201 bull Boulder CO 80302 bull (720) 638-5593 bull paradoxsportsorg

paradoxsportsorgcausesparadox-curriculum

ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM

12 | mojavecreativelabcom

Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber Jeff

Lowe in his final act For the past ten years Jeff has been battling

an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS Mojave is

proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for

Jeffrsquorsquos much anticipated film Metanoia premeiring this November

at Banff Mountain Film Festival MCL is a proud sponsor of the film

BRAND JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATIONPROJECT TRIBUTE POSTER

mojavecreativelabcom | 13

Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of

its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the

event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would

garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While

working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was

featured on USA Today and many other online publications

BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC

VIEW ONLINE

14 | mojavecreativelabcom

Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the

Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big

Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media

presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed

a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook

page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative

and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew

substantially over the course of the contest

BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 15

Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new

layering system By combining product placement and action

photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience

and simultaniously communicated the new product line

BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD

copy Tyler Stableford Photography

MOUNTAIN

S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk

Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail

The Result

Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip

16 | mojavecreativelabcom

In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site

ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear

review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly

and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear

review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or

allows for such user-interaction

BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 17

At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics

to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This

original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial

license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by

the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma

mojavecreativelabcom

BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

desert dweller

W E A RM J AV E

18 | mojavecreativelabcom

Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom

Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma

CONTACT

mojavecreativelabcom

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

mojavecreativelabcom | 19

Page 13: Mojave Creative Lab

Mojave Creative Lab is incredibly invested in supporting non-profit

organizations aligned with our beliefs and interests Thatrsquos why we

work pro-bono with Paradox Sports PS is a non-profit committed

to providing inspiration opportunities and specialized adaptive

equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in

human-powered sports Mojave Creative Lab was founded upon

creativity and the love of outdoors Offering our services for free to

an organization with a similar mission was a no-brainer

BRAND PARADOX SPORTSPROJECT POSTCARD DESIGN

ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM

The Paradox Sports Adaptive Climbing Curriculum includes a comprehensive manual clinic and equipment package The curriculum provides qualified instruction on how to provide a rewarding climbing experience for persons with a wide array of physical disabilities while developing inclusive supportive communities for adaptive sport and

emphasizes risk management The curriculum explains the specifics for creating and curating this program at climbing gyms universities adaptive sports agencies outdoor clubs hospitals and community rec programs with a focus on physical adaptation with paralysis amputation deafnessblindness neurological disorders PTSD and TBI

PARADOX SPORTS1911 11th St bull Suite 201 bull Boulder CO 80302 bull (720) 638-5593 bull paradoxsportsorg

paradoxsportsorgcausesparadox-curriculum

ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM

12 | mojavecreativelabcom

Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber Jeff

Lowe in his final act For the past ten years Jeff has been battling

an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS Mojave is

proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for

Jeffrsquorsquos much anticipated film Metanoia premeiring this November

at Banff Mountain Film Festival MCL is a proud sponsor of the film

BRAND JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATIONPROJECT TRIBUTE POSTER

mojavecreativelabcom | 13

Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of

its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the

event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would

garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While

working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was

featured on USA Today and many other online publications

BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC

VIEW ONLINE

14 | mojavecreativelabcom

Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the

Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big

Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media

presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed

a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook

page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative

and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew

substantially over the course of the contest

BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 15

Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new

layering system By combining product placement and action

photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience

and simultaniously communicated the new product line

BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD

copy Tyler Stableford Photography

MOUNTAIN

S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk

Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail

The Result

Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip

16 | mojavecreativelabcom

In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site

ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear

review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly

and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear

review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or

allows for such user-interaction

BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 17

At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics

to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This

original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial

license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by

the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma

mojavecreativelabcom

BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

desert dweller

W E A RM J AV E

18 | mojavecreativelabcom

Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom

Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma

CONTACT

mojavecreativelabcom

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

mojavecreativelabcom | 19

Page 14: Mojave Creative Lab

Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber Jeff

Lowe in his final act For the past ten years Jeff has been battling

an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS Mojave is

proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for

Jeffrsquorsquos much anticipated film Metanoia premeiring this November

at Banff Mountain Film Festival MCL is a proud sponsor of the film

BRAND JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATIONPROJECT TRIBUTE POSTER

mojavecreativelabcom | 13

Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of

its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the

event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would

garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While

working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was

featured on USA Today and many other online publications

BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC

VIEW ONLINE

14 | mojavecreativelabcom

Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the

Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big

Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media

presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed

a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook

page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative

and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew

substantially over the course of the contest

BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 15

Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new

layering system By combining product placement and action

photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience

and simultaniously communicated the new product line

BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD

copy Tyler Stableford Photography

MOUNTAIN

S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk

Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail

The Result

Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip

16 | mojavecreativelabcom

In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site

ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear

review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly

and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear

review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or

allows for such user-interaction

BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 17

At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics

to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This

original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial

license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by

the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma

mojavecreativelabcom

BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

desert dweller

W E A RM J AV E

18 | mojavecreativelabcom

Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom

Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma

CONTACT

mojavecreativelabcom

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

mojavecreativelabcom | 19

Page 15: Mojave Creative Lab

Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of

its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the

event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would

garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While

working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was

featured on USA Today and many other online publications

BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC

VIEW ONLINE

14 | mojavecreativelabcom

Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the

Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big

Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media

presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed

a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook

page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative

and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew

substantially over the course of the contest

BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 15

Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new

layering system By combining product placement and action

photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience

and simultaniously communicated the new product line

BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD

copy Tyler Stableford Photography

MOUNTAIN

S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk

Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail

The Result

Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip

16 | mojavecreativelabcom

In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site

ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear

review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly

and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear

review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or

allows for such user-interaction

BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 17

At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics

to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This

original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial

license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by

the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma

mojavecreativelabcom

BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

desert dweller

W E A RM J AV E

18 | mojavecreativelabcom

Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom

Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma

CONTACT

mojavecreativelabcom

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

mojavecreativelabcom | 19

Page 16: Mojave Creative Lab

Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the

Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big

Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media

presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed

a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook

page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative

and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew

substantially over the course of the contest

BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 15

Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new

layering system By combining product placement and action

photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience

and simultaniously communicated the new product line

BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD

copy Tyler Stableford Photography

MOUNTAIN

S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk

Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail

The Result

Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip

16 | mojavecreativelabcom

In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site

ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear

review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly

and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear

review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or

allows for such user-interaction

BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 17

At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics

to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This

original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial

license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by

the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma

mojavecreativelabcom

BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

desert dweller

W E A RM J AV E

18 | mojavecreativelabcom

Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom

Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma

CONTACT

mojavecreativelabcom

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

mojavecreativelabcom | 19

Page 17: Mojave Creative Lab

Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new

layering system By combining product placement and action

photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience

and simultaniously communicated the new product line

BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD

copy Tyler Stableford Photography

MOUNTAIN

S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk

Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail

The Result

Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip

16 | mojavecreativelabcom

In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site

ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear

review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly

and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear

review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or

allows for such user-interaction

BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 17

At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics

to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This

original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial

license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by

the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma

mojavecreativelabcom

BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

desert dweller

W E A RM J AV E

18 | mojavecreativelabcom

Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom

Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma

CONTACT

mojavecreativelabcom

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

mojavecreativelabcom | 19

Page 18: Mojave Creative Lab

In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site

ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear

review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly

and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear

review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or

allows for such user-interaction

BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE

VIEW ONLINE

mojavecreativelabcom | 17

At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics

to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This

original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial

license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by

the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma

mojavecreativelabcom

BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

desert dweller

W E A RM J AV E

18 | mojavecreativelabcom

Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom

Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma

CONTACT

mojavecreativelabcom

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

mojavecreativelabcom | 19

Page 19: Mojave Creative Lab

At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics

to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This

original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial

license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by

the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma

mojavecreativelabcom

BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

desert dweller

W E A RM J AV E

18 | mojavecreativelabcom

Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom

Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma

CONTACT

mojavecreativelabcom

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

mojavecreativelabcom | 19

Page 20: Mojave Creative Lab

Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom

Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma

CONTACT

mojavecreativelabcom

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN

THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B

mojavecreativelabcom | 19