Beagle Garden Products, 327 Histon Road, Cambridge CB4 3NF, United KingdomTel: 01223 927 212 Email: info@beagleproducts.com www.beagleproducts.com

© Beagle 2012

With a plethora of control methods available consisting of traps, repellents, and much much more, it can be hard to know where to start. Added to this is the huge volume of conflicting advice available from many different sources. Here, we help you sort the wheat from the chaff.

At Beagle, we like to think that our traps are the best out there, but we also guarantee to give you 100% honest and impartial advice when it comes to choosing the best way to get rid of your moles.

In this advice booklet we explain all the options available to you for trapping moles. So, to business… the options can essentially be broken down into the following categories:

- Killing Traps - Live Capture Traps - Poisons - Booby Traps - Repellents - Environment Modification - Professional Services

Mole removal: the options

Mole removal: the options

Killing traps

The use of killing traps is the most traditional way to remove moles. As far back as Roman times, basic killing traps were used – these consisted of earthenware pots, half filled with water, and buried under a mole run then covered with a trap door.

Thankfully, there are much more efficient tools available now and whilst the setting of traps may be perceived as more labour intensive than other approaches, with the right tools and methods it is by far the most effective method of getting rid of the little critters.

Some have criticised killing traps for being inhumane. However, with well-designed and correctly set traps, the animal will be killed quickly and cleanly with virtually no suffering. Compared to other options, such as poison, the killing trap is infinitely more preferable.

When choosing a trap, you should choose carefully since there is a very wide range of options out there. Some are dangerous, others difficult to use, and some totally useless.

A good trap will be easy to arm, able to catch from both directions, and will not intrude into the tunnel except for the trigger.

Duffus (half barrell) trap

This is the most widely used trap at the moment. It has powerful springs that give a nice clean kill, and it can catch moles coming from either direction.

The major problem with this trap is that it is very difficult to set and many people have been ‘bitten’ by it. Unless you have a very steady hand and strong fingers, be ready for a bruised digit. The other thing to remember is that these traps are usually not supplied ‘ready’ to be set in a run. They need to be ‘tuned’ to set the sensitivity and distance between the trigger and the killing loops. This process is difficult to get right and can seriously compromise your mole catching.

Also, remember that this trap is usually set completely below ground. Great if you don’t want to ‘mow’ it, but will need marking and you cannot see from a distance if it has been triggered.

Otherwise, it is a durable design that can easily be repaired. The best are the slightly more expensive ones made in the UK. Cheaper ‘knock offs’ from eastern Europe or Asia (typically supplied in a red and yellow box) are poor imitations and either will not set, or will not fire reliably.

Warning: due to the power and exposed mechanism of this trap, and that it is usually mostly buried, you should be wary of using it in areas where animal / children / members of the public could stumble across it.

The new product designed, manufactured, and sold exclusively by Beagle. This is very easy to set, simply by pushing down on the black plunger. Inside the casing, there is a self-setting trigger mechanism and two powerful springs. When the mole bumps into the trigger, the springs fire and the killing hoops lift up crushing the mole against the bottom of the casing. The trigger can be activated in either direction.

Since the mechanism is entirely enclosed it presents a minimal danger of self-injury during setting, cannot be jammed by stones or earth, and is not a hazard to pets, livestock and unaware humans.

The main disadvantage is that it is slightly larger than competitive products such as the Duffus trap. Professional mole catchers needing lots of traps may choose something more compact.

EasySet mole trap

Mole removal: the options

Explosives

A product available almost exclusively in France – because it is Illegal everywhere else! It uses a triggering mechanism that detects the mole and sends an electric current to a buried explosive charge that blows up the mole.

Whilst this may appeal to the inner child, and provide a great deal of satisfaction to the irate gardener, it is very dangerous. Children and pets have been known to severely injure themselves in encounters with this product.

Warning: Illegal in most countries. Very dangerous

The mole gun

Another barmy French invention. This gun is buried pointing down the mole run. When the mole bumps into the trigger plate, the gun fires a small explosive charge and fires a projectile down the run at the mole… Needless to say it often misses.

Two are also needed in order to account for the mole arriving from either direction.

Warning: Illegal in most countries. Very dangerous

The mouse/rat trap

This has been tried by many people, hopeful for a cheap and cheerful solution to mole catching. Unfortunately it never works. The dimensions are all wrong, and there is not enough space in the tunnel for the mechanism to operate successfully. The base of the trap is also very noticeable to the mole who will be discouraged from proceeding.

The penetrator / spear trap

This particularly dangerous device is set above the line of a run, with the stabilising stakes either side. When the trigger is activated, by soil movement upwards as the moles passes, the six metal ‘nails’ fire downwards and attempt to spear the mole.

The advantage of this trap is that you shouldn’t need to dig a hole in your lawn, so it is easier to set from that perspective. However this is also the problem since it is hard to align correctly with a run that you cannot see. Additionally, this will only work in reasonably shallow runs.

Due to the multitude of sharpened spikes that are designed to impale the animal, only use this trap if you are fully prepared to wipe it clean of blood and gore.

Arouze (wire) trap

This is a classic French device. It is a very simple design but can be a pain to set as the trigger square will slip if it isn’t perfectly aligned.

The major drawbacks are that it will only catch from one direction (so two are needed in each location), and that the jaws are very narrow and the mole will have to physically squeeze through to get to the trigger; thus reducing the chances of a successful trapping.

The advantage is that it is pretty much unbreakable, as well as being small to carry around if you have a large area to trap.

Mole removal: the options

The scissor trap

The main problem with this design is that the trigger plate is gripped very tightly by the jaws. This means that unless the mole is running at speed (unlikely unless you have scared it somehow) it is unlikely to go off. Instead the mole will encounter it, nudge it, and then go around. There is also the additional possibility of stones or other debris preventing the jaws from closing fully. This may prevent a clean kill causing unnecessary suffering to the mole. Finally, due to the handles sticking up, the trap is very difficult to ‘bury’ and seal in without blocking the mechanism. If it rains, the soil plug is likely to be washed down into the run, and the protruding handles are a danger to other animals / machinery such as a lawnmower (although the handles sticking up allow you to see if it has been triggered from a distance).

If using this type of trap it is important to make sure it is of a good brand, since some cheaper versions have jaws that are too long, so when set the trigger is too high in the run and this allows the mole to pass through unimpeded.

This trap is primarily designed for catching voles in Austria and Germany. Although people have attempted to trap moles with it, the dimensions are all wrong. The opening is too small and the mole will not be far enough inside when it triggers the mechanism – resulting in no more than a bloody nose.

Additionally, the very narrow hole it needs to be inserted down means that it is near impossible to adequately clear the run of fallen soil, or to correctly align the openings with the tunnel.

The primary advantage of this trap is that there is no dangerous or fiddly setting mechanism. All that you need to do is pull up on the handle (although it often takes a few attempts to get the latch to engage properly).

SuperCat trap

Generally a fairly good trap. The setting is easier than the Duffus type trap, and the triggering is more sensitive than the scissor type trap. However, as with the scissor trap, the jaws may also fail to close fully if blocked with stones or grit.

This is a great choice if you are getting lots of filled-in traps, since the trigger mechanism is different (in the roof). It will be less likely to put off a ‘trap-shy’ mole.

The main difficulty of this trap is setting it at the correct height. Since the trigger is in the roof of the tunnel and operates when it is pushed up, if the trap is too high it will not trigger and if the trap is too low, the mole will hit it from the side rather than from underneath; again not triggering the trap.

Talpex trap

This is the latest gadget on the market from one of the American companies. The idea is that once you have located the mole run, you press this down through the soil and then step on the yellow lever to lever the jaws apart and arm the trap.

Whilst great in theory (no fiddly setting needed!), as with the penetrator, you cannot see where you are setting it so the likelihood of aligning if correctly is low. Stepping on it to arm it is also likely to crush the tunnel, reducing the chances of the mole blundering into the trap. It will also only work in shallow runs (unless you are prepared to excavate down to the level of the run).

Talpirid (step-on) trap

Mole removal: the options

Trichter trap

A French design, with limited availability in other countries, this trap suffers from a number of problems. The major issue is that the manufacturing quality is poor, so it is often difficult / impossible to set since the trigger and retaining bar do not line up. Additionally, it is a one-way-only trap, so two are needed back to back. Since it is a fairly large trap, this requires a substantial excavation.

At the price point, you really should expect better.

This is a variation on the live bucket trap. In addition to the instructions above for the Live Bucket Trap, you will need to make a small hole in the side approximately half-way up and then fill it up to this point with water. The hole stops the bucket filling with rain water and overflowing.

When the mole falls into the bucket, he will not be able to escape and will eventually drown.

Whilst this method can work, moles will often notice the lip and be able to back up and go around. It is also a lot of work and a very large hole to dig in the middle of your lawn!

The water trap

Twist spring trap

A predominantly American design to catch gophers and moles. This is another nasty bit of kit that you should be wary of putting your fingers anywhere near!

Apart from the risk of self-injury, you should note that you will need to set two at each point, as they are only capable of trapping from one direction. They also require the mole to clamber over the jaws and then along the structural components in order to reach the trigger. As we know moles are very aware of their environment and naturally cautious, you can see why few will blunder into a trap of this design.

Live capture traps

These are often marketed as ‘humane’ mole traps, and at first glance this may seem to be the case. However, first stop and consider what will actually happen.

Firstly, you will contain a live animal that is naturally nervous and has a high metabolism, within a small confined space. This will cause a great deal of distress to the animal, which will normally (and on average) remain there for at least 12 hours (assuming you check the trap every 24 hours – this is usually optimistic!).

Due to its high metabolism, the mole needs to eat copious amounts regularly in order to stay alive, an extended confinement will cause it to die of starvation. Moles are also susceptible to hypothermia if immobile for extended periods without insulation (as in their nests).

Secondly, what will you do with the mole once you have caught it? It is illegal to release a pest onto public land or on someone else’s land without their consent (it is hard to imagine this being given) so you are left with few options.

Even if released in a suitable location, it will have expended most of its energy reserves and it is unlikely that it will be able to find / dig a new tunnel; leaving it vulnerable to predators or starvation (without feeding tunnels).

That said, live capture traps can be very effective. If you have somewhere to release the mole, or are prepared to dispatch it quickly and humanely, and will check the trap every 12 hours, then this is a good option.

Any bucket from your local hardware store of supermarket can be used, so long as it has steep sides and sufficient depth (at least 40cm). If the sides are too shallow / the bucket is not deep enough the mole will be able to climb out.

Once you have located an active mole run, dig a large hole, bury the bucket just below the level of the tunnel, fill in any gaps around the edges, and then cover the surface opening with a sheet of wood. The mole should come along its tunnel and fall in. Care should be taken to ensure that the tunnel continues seamlessly right up to the lip of the bucket.

Whilst this method can be made to work, moles will often notice the lip and be able to back up and go around. It is also a lot of work and a very large hole to dig in the middle of your lawn!

Live bucket trap

Mole removal: the options

Traditional tube trap

This is the best live capture trap currently available on the market. In order to set it you must locate a straight section of tunnel, excavate a line the same length of the trap, and then place the trap carefully ensuring that it is perfectly lined up with the exiting tunnel. Any air gaps must then be sealed with loose earth. There are also single entry versions (with a door only at one end), but this requires you to set two traps in every location – pointless extra work.

The two drawbacks of this design are: (1) if the mole is inside for an extended period it may be able to lift one of the two end flaps and escape. (2) the nature of the flaps that need to be pushed open, may discourage some cautious moles from entering.

Many people will prefer this option since it does not involve killing / hurting the mole, they are also generally low effort solutions that can be implemented quickly and easily. The catch is that most do not work.

They come in many forms and whilst some may drive moles out for a short period, they will eventually return. Other products will simply cause the mole to dig alternative tunnels, resulting in a renewed digging frenzy – causing even more ruin and damage!

Repellents

Poisons

In addition to the fact that many poisons are now banned or tightly controlled in the EU, the main problem with poisons is getting the mole to ingest them. Moles eat live earthworms and insect grubs. They will not eat grain, powder, or any of the other variety of delivery forms dreamed up by the manufacturers.

One promising option was to capture earthworms, poison them, and then place them in the mole run. However, there are two problems. Firstly, unless it is very recently dead the mole will be less than enthusiastic. Secondly, is the way in which moles feed; they do this be squeezing the worm between their front claws and slowly drawing it between them. This unusual feeding habit squeezes any earth (and poison!) from the worm’s stomach as well as wiping the surface clean. Thus it is unlikely that enough poison will be ingested. The reason for this habit is to reduce the amount of soil ingested and the wear on the moles teeth.

You should also remember that any poison put down is susceptible to contaminate the food sources of other animals and may cause the unintended deaths of other non-target species. Maybe this is OK if it’s just a vole, rat, or squirrel that gets caught in the ‘crossfire’. Your children will be upset if it is the family cat though!

Booby traps

Another favourite of the blogger and amateur mole control ‘expert’ is to place sharp objects in the tunnel in the hope that the mole will blunder into them. These may be crushed glass, razor blades, rose thorns, nails… Proponents of this idea often back it up with the entirely incorrect ‘fact’ that moles are haemophiliacs – so once cut they will not clot and so will bleed to death.

In the normal course of life, moles have to contend with sharp stones, pieces of flint, and plant thorns. All of which are found in the soil. This just shows how absurd this idea is.

Additionally, it seems to be a needlessly cruel thing to do. The idea of causing an animal to slowly bleed to death is not only abhorrent, it is illegal! As a pest, land owners are permitted to remove moles, but only using humane methods.

Warning: this method also provides a significant hazard to anyone digging in, or tending to, the garden in the future.

Also, in the event of success with one of these products, spare a thought for your neighbours, who will almost certainly inherit the displaced mole!!

As with mole smokes, there is no scientific evidence to show that Castor Oil will repel moles. This is an especially labour intensive method of applying it as well! Especially if you have a large garden, it will require many hours for a full application. Even the manufacturers only claim that it will be effective for around 30 days.

If your particular brand of mole does happen to dislike castor oil, this is likely to be more effective than mole smokes since coverage of the en-tire area may deter them from simply digging new tunnels. Alternatively, they may just dig a little deeper, down where the oil has not penetrated.

If you must try this, at least buy castor oil from your local supermarket and mix it with water and a small amount of environmentally friendly washing-up liquid (as an emulsifier to mix these two immiscible liquids). This will be a far cheaper way of wasting your time.

Caster oil spray

Mole removal: the options

Sonic / Sonar mole stake

Most of these are now powered by small solar cells on the top. Others use copious quantities of DD batteries. If you decide to use one of these, go for the solar option if you can. Although battery powered stakes may have a slightly better coverage, the solar ones will be much kinder to the environment and you won’t need to remember to change the batteries.

They work by sending out either high pitched sounds or vibrations at regular intervals. The idea is that the mole will not like this and will move to a different area. Some reports claim that these may work initially, but the mole will usually return after a couple of weeks once it gets used to the vibrations and realises they are not a threat. A study at the University of Aberdeen in 1994 found no evidence to suggest that moles are repelled by these devices.

Beware: the coverage quoted by most manufacturers is almost always optimistic! A realistic estimate is generally a circle with radius 3-5 meters from the device. That is 28 – 75 square meters or 250-700 square feet.

These are placed in an exposed tunnel, lit, and then sealed in. As they burn they give off a smoky gas that permeates the tunnel system. The gas leaves a residue of castor oil or some other unwelcome substance on the walls of the tunnels.

The idea is that either the mole will not like the smell, or the substance will discourage the moles’ prey (earthworms or insect grubs) entering the tunnels; thus the mole will go elsewhere.

In reality, there are two likely outcomes:

1) The mole will not care, and they will make no difference. Likely since there is no scientific evidence that Castor oil is an effective repellent.2) The mole will decide that the current tunnels are unpleasant and will go on a mad digging spree to excavate a new system of alternative

tunnels; wreaking further havoc! There will be no reason to go to next-doors garden. The next bit of soil over will be just as good and closer to hand!

Mole smokes

Plants such as ‘Euphorbia Lathyris’

There are many plants which purportedly discourage moles. These include daffodils (Narcissus), Siberian squill (Scilla siberica), crown imperial (Fritillaria imperialis), caper spurge (Euphorbia lathyris), The Mexican marigold (Tagetes minuta), and the castor bean plant (Ricinus communis).

Whilst some claim that this solution works, the scientific studies (conducted by … university) show quite clearly that they have no effect. Rather, it is more likely that these plants simply grow well in soil that provides a poor habitat to moles.

Warning: note that some of these plants may be toxic to small animals and humans, especially pets and young children

There are two options here; organic or chemical.

On the natural side, Many a blogger and mole control theorist will advocate the virtues of peeing on mole hills. This, together with a variety of related techniques such as burying mouldy vegetables, peppermints, used cat-litter, chili sauce, rotting fish, powdered aspirin, onions, or garlic.

On the less environmentally friendly side, options are: petrol, diesel, engine oil, bleach, creosote, chewing gum, and the least damaging: (but equally useless) mothballs. This is quite simply a bad idea. Not only will it not work, it is likely to cause widespread contamination of watercourses and will cause more permanent damage to your lawn than a mole could do in years.

Whilst free, or at the least very inexpensive, these methods are a waste of time. Moles will simply either ignore these substances, or tunnel around them. The only benefit may be extra fertiliser for your lawn if you use the natural substances!

Placing nasty substances in mole runs

Mole removal: the options

Evironmental modification

Some people have resorted to extraordinary measures to rid themselves of moles once and for all! There are reports of people excavating their entire lawn down to a depth of a meter, and then lining the whole area and the edges with chicken wire.

If you do decide on the expensive and extreme action, make sure you keep a 30cm high ‘fence’ around the area as well since a sly mole may just surface and hop over a buried fence.Another strategy that has be tried, tested, and has ultimately failed, is

to drive heavy machinery over the surface in the hope of crushing the tunnels.

This may work for surface tunnels, but moles often tunnel as deep as 1.5 meters. In fact, due to the shear properties of soil, you would need something of the order of an HGV to reliably collapse a 60mm wide tunnel at this depth. This would certainly make a mess of your lawn!

Get in a professional mole catcher!

Depending on your finances, and the scale of the problem, this may or not be appropriate. Most professionals offer a good service and are reliable – just make sure they are an accredited member of either:

- The Guild of British Molecatchers

- The Association of Professional Mole Catchers

- The British Traditional Molecatchers Register

Each maintains a list of certified mole catchers up and down the coun-try. All of the mole catchers listed on these registers are committed to traditional mole control, using mechanical killing traps. None will use poisons.

You should contact each mole catcher individually to enquire over

prices, since these may differ widely and depend upon travel distance. Some will charge per visit, per mole, or a one off fee to ‘deal with the problem’. Some may guaranteed their work for up to 10 days after clearance, but others will charge their regular fee if the mole(s) ‘return’.

Always remember that if moles to reappear, it is very unlikely that the Mole Catcher has ‘cheated’ you. Moles are very territorial, and it is common for a neighbouring mole to take over recently vacated terri-tory. A good mole catcher should explain this to you at the outset.

Professional services

Beagle Garden Products, 327 Histon Road, Cambridge CB4 3NF, United KingdomTel: 01223 927 212 Email: info@beagleproducts.com www.beagleproducts.com

© Beagle 2012

Beagle is a British company that provides an easy, effective solution to unwanted moles in your lawns. Our pest control products are designed and manufactured exclusively in the UK to the highest quality standards. They should last you a life-time, and should be a pleasure to use.