geta

way

mon

tréa

l

The best choices for a short stay !

montréal

Mont-Trem

blant (125 km)

Terre

bonn

e(4

0 km

)

Boisbriand (35 km

)

Ottawa (200 km)

Toronto (540 km)

Salaberry-

de-Valleyfield (55 km)

Sherbrooke (155 km),

New York, NY (595 km),

Boston, MA (495 km),

Burlington, VT (155 km)

Saint-Hyacinthe (65 km),

Drummondville (105 km),

Québec (250 km)

Trois-Rivières (140 km),

Québec (280 km)

See Montréal

centre

15

15

15

13

10

10

40

40

40

40

40

25

19

440

640

720

520

25

20

20

20

20

30

30134

112

132

138

138

132

138

125

335

117

148

132

Jacques Cartier

Bridge

VictoriaBridge

Champlain Bridge

Mercier

Bridge

L.-H.-La Fontaine

Bridge-TunnelMontréalPierre Elliott TrudeauInternationalAirport

MountRoyal Park

ParcMaisonneuve

Longueuil

Saint-Lambert

Boucherville

Sainte-CatherineKahnawake

Châteauguay

LacSaint-Louis

Rivière des Prairies

St. LawrenceRiver

Lac desDeux Montagnes

Sainte-Geneviève

Outremont

Montréal-Nord Anjou

Lachine

Pointe-aux-Trembles

Rivière-des-Prairies

LaSalle

Verdun

Saint-Laurent

DOLLARD-DES-

ORMEAUX

CÔTE-SAINT-LUC

DORVAL

L’ÎLE-DORVAL

SAINTE-ANNE-DE-BELLEVUE

SENNEVILLE

BEACONSFIELD

BAIE-D’URFÉ

KIRKLAND

WESTMOUNT

HAMPSTEAD

MONT-ROYAL

MONTRÉAL-OUEST

MONTRÉAL-EST

POINTE-CLAIRE

L’Île-Bizard

Île desSœurs

ÎlePerrot

Îles deBoucherville

Île Jésus

Blvd

. St-C

harle

s

Blvd

. St.-

Jean Blvd. Gouin

Blvd. Henri-Bourassa

Sour

ces

RueSherbrooke

Rue Sherbrooke

Blvd. de la Côte-VertuRue Sauvé

Rue N

otre-

Dame

Ch. de la Côte-de-Liesse

Ave. Papineau

Blvd. Pie-IXBlvd

.de

s

Blvd. Gouin

LANAUDIÈRE

MONTÉRÉGIE

LAVAL

MONTRÉAL

MONTÉRÉGIE

Saint-Laurent

Suburban Town

Borough ofMontréal

POINTE-CLAIRE

0 5 10km

Getting

to M

ontréal

ù

Ulysses Label aw

arded to our favourite hotels and restaurants

Sym

bols Used In T

his Guide

Attraction C

lassification

«««

Not to be missed «

« W

orth a visit « Interesting

Map Sym

bols

Restaurant

Classification

Prices in this guide are for a meal for

one person, excluding drinks, taxes and tip.

$

less than $15

$$

from

$15 to $

25$

$$

from

$26 to $

50$

$$

$

more than $

50

All prices in this guide are in Canadian dollars.

Beach

Bus station

Car ferry

Cemetery

Church

Golf course

88 Highway

Hospital

Hiking trail

International airport

International border

Lighthouse

Lookout

Market

Metro station

Museum

National capital

Park or nature preserve

Parking

Passenger ferry

Place

Point of interest

Railroad

Regional

airport

88 Route

Sea, lake, river

Tourist information

Train station

Urban park

All symbols do not necessarily appear in this guide.

ù Ulysses Label awarded to our favourite hotels and restaurants

Symbols Used In This Guide

Attraction Classification

««« Not to be missed «« Worth a visit « Interesting

Map Symbols

Accommodation ClassificationPrices indicated in this guide apply to a standard room for two people in peak season, excluding taxes.

$ less than $60$$ from $60 to $100$$$ from $101 to $150$$$$ from $151 to $225$$$$$ more than $225

Restaurant ClassificationPrices in this guide are for a meal for one person, excluding drinks, taxes and tip.

$ less than $15$$ from $15 to $25$$$ from $26 to $50$$$$ more than $50

All prices in this guide are in Canadian dollars.

Berri-UQAMBeaudry

Papineau

Frontenac

Saint-Laurent

Place-des-Arts

McGillPeel

Guy-Concordia

Atwater

Champ-de-MarsPlace-

d’ArmesSquare-Victoria–OACI

Lucien-L’AllierGeorges-

Vanier

Lionel-Groulx

Bonaventure

Sherbrooke

Mont-Royal

Rue Saint-Paul Ouest

Rue

Sai

nt-C

hris

toph

e

Ave.

De

Châ

teau

bria

nd

Rue Saint-

Sulpice

Rue Wellington

Rue Wellington

Rue Ottawa

Rue Prince

Rue Shannon

Rue Ann

Rue Peel

Ave.

Lorn

e

Ave.

du

Par

cAv

e. d

u P

arc

Blv

d. S

t-Lau

rent

Blv

d. S

t-Lau

rent

Bou

leva

rd S

aint

-Lau

rent

Rue Notre-Dame Est

Rue Notre-Dame Est

Rue Milton

Rue Prince-Arthur

Rue

Sai

nt-U

rbai

n

Rue

Cla

rk

Rue

Cla

rk

Rue

Sai

nt-D

omin

ique

Ave.

Col

onia

le

Rue

De

Bul

lion

Ave.

de

l'Hôt

el-d

e-Vi

lle

Ave.

Lav

al

Rue

San

guin

etAv

e. H

enri-

Julie

n

Rue Roy

Rue Rachel Est Rue Rachel EstAve. Bureau

Rue Marie-Anne EstRue Marie-Anne Est

Ave. Duluth EstAve. Duluth Ouest

Ave. du Mont-Royal EstAve. du Mont-Royal Est

Rue Rachel Est

Rue

Dro

let

Rue

Sai

nt-A

ndré

Rue

Sai

nt-A

ndré

Rue

de

Men

tana

Rue

Boy

er

Rue

Wol

fe Rue

De

Mon

tcal

mR

ue B

eaud

ryR

ue B

eaud

ryR

ue B

eaud

ry

Rue

de

la V

isita

tion

Rue

Pan

et

Rue

Ple

ssis

Rue

De

Cha

mpl

ain

Ave.

Pap

inea

u

Ave.

De

Lorim

ier

Ave.

De

Lorim

ier

Ave.

Pap

inea

uAv

e. P

apin

eau

Rue

Car

tier

Rue

Car

tier

Rue

Dor

ion

Rue

Dor

ion

Rue

Car

tier

Rue

Dor

ion

Rue

de

Bor

deau

x

Ave.

des

Éra

bles

Rue

Par

then

ais

Rue

Par

then

ais

Rue

Mes

sier

Rue

Ful

lum

Rue

Ful

lum

Rue

Cha

plea

u

Rue

D’Ib

ervi

lleR

ue P

oupa

rt

Rue

Duf

resn

e

Rue

D’Ib

ervi

lle

Rue

Fro

nten

ac

Rue

Ale

xand

re-D

e S

ève

Rue

Am

hers

tR

ue S

aint

-Thi

mot

ée

Rue Saint-Antoine Est

Rue Robin

Rue Logan Rue Logan

Rue La FontaineRue La Fontaine

Rue

Sai

nt-H

uber

tR

ue S

aint

-Hub

ert

Rue Cherrier

Rue

Ber

riR

ue B

erri

Rue Berri

Rue de la Commune

Ave. des Pins Ouest Ave. des Pins Est

Rue

Ayl

mer

Rue de

la C

ommun

e

Rue M

cGill

Rue

McG

ill

Rue William

Rue William

Rue Saint-Maurice

Rue Notre-Dame Ouest

Rue Notre-Dame Ouest

Rue Notre-Dame Ouest

Blvd

. Geo

rges

-Van

ier

Rue

des

Sei

gneu

rs

Rue

Vin

et

Rue

de

la C

athé

dral

e

Rue De La Gauchetière Ouest

Rue Saint-JacquesRue Saint-Jacques

Rue Saint-Jacques

Rue Saint-Antoine Ouest

Rue Saint-Antoine OuestAve. Viger Est

Rue Saint-Antoine Ouest

Rue

Dru

mm

ond

Rue

Sai

nt-M

athi

eu

Rue

Sai

nt-M

arc

Rue

du

Fort

Rue

Cho

med

ey

Rue

Lam

bert-

Clo

sse

Rue

Cre

scen

t

Rue

Bis

hop

Rue

McK

ay

Rue G

uy

Ave.

Atw

ater

Rue

Cha

rlevo

ix

Ave.

Atw

ater

Ave.

Woo

d

Ave.

Elm

Ave.

Cla

rke

Ave.

Gre

ene

Ave.

Gre

ene

Rue

Guy

Rue

Ric

hmon

d

Rue

Met

calfe

Rue

Sta

nley

Rue

Pee

l

Rue

Man

sfie

ld

Ave. du Président-Kennedy

Rue

McT

avis

h

Ave.

McG

ill C

olle

ge

Ave.

du

Mus

ée

Rue Milton

Rue Prince-Arthur

Rue

Jea

nne-

Man

ce

Rue

Sai

nte-

Fam

ille

Rue

Dur

oche

r

Rue

Hut

chis

on

Rue

De

Ble

ury

Rue

Uni

on

Rue

Jea

nne-

Man

ce

Côte du B eaver-H

all

Ave. des Pins Ouest

Rue

de

la M

onta

gne

Rue Sainte-Catherine Est Rue Sainte-Catherine Est

Rue Sainte-Catherine Ouest

Rue Ontario

Rue Ontario

Rue Ontario

Rue de Rouen

Rue Larivière

Rue

Sai

nt-D

enis

Rue

Riv

ard

Rue

Sai

nt-D

enis

Blvd. De Maisonneuve EstBlvd. De Maisonneuve Ouest

Blvd. De Maisonneuve Ouest

Blvd. De Maisonneuve Est

Rue Sherbrooke Est

Rue Sherbrooke Ouest

Rue Sherbrooke Ouest

Rue Sherbrooke Ouest

Ave. Cedar

Ave. Montrose

Ch. Saint-Sulpice

The Boulevard

Ave. du Docteur-Penfield Ave. du Docteur-Penfield

Rue Sherbrooke Est

Ave.

du

Par

c-La

Fon

tain

eAv

e. C

hris

toph

e-C

olom

b

Rue

De

La R

oche

Rue

Bré

beuf

Rue

De

Lana

udiè

re

Rue

Gar

nier

Rue

Fab

re

Rue

Mar

quet

te

Rue

Cha

mbo

rd

Blvd. René-Lévesque EstBlvd. René-Lévesque Est

Ville-Marie Expressway

Ch. RemembranceVoie Camillien- Houde

Rue Sainte-Catherine OuestRue Tupper

Rue Baile

Blvd. René-Lévesque Ouest

Blvd. Dorchester

Autoroute Bonaventure

Ville-Marie Expressway

Ville-Marie Expressway

Rue Quesnel

Rue Coursol

Ave. Lionel-Groulx

Ave. Lionel-GroulxRue Workman

Ch. de la Côte-des-Neiges

Blv

d. R

ober

t-Bou

rass

aR

ue U

nive

rsity

138335

10

720

720

Bassin de l'Horloge

PlaceJean-Paul-

Riopelle

Garecentrale

CimetièreNotre-Dame-des-Neiges

Mount RoyalCemetery

Place D'Youville

CathédraleMarie-Reine-du-Monde

AtwaterMarket

St.GeorgeChurch

GareWindsor

Musée d’ArtContemporain

de Montréal

SunLifeBuilding

CoursMont-Royal

Églisedu Gesù

McGillUniversity

Christ ChurchCathedral

ÉgliseSaint-Jean-

Baptiste

McCord Museum

Centre d’Histoirede Montréal

MontréalWorld TradeCentre

PlaceBonaventure

MaisonSmith

Placedu

Canada

PlaceVille Marie

PercivalMolsonStadium

Mount RoyalCross

CentreEaton

CentreBell

RedpathMuseum

Collègede Montréal

HôpitalRoyal Victoria

PlaceAlexis-Nihon

WestmountSquare

HôpitalNotre-Dame

Hôtel de Ville

PlaceJacques-Cartier

Placed’Armes Édifice

Ernest-CormierNotre-Dame

Basilica

ComplexeGuy-Favreau

Clock Tower Quay

AlexandraQuay

KingEdwardQuay

UQAMUQAM

UQAMPlace

des Arts

ComplexeDesjardins

ClockTower

Île Sainte-Hélène

La Ronde

P a r c J e a n - D r a p e a u

GrandeBibliothèque

Écomuséedu Fier Monde

ITHQ

Pointe-à-Callière,Montréal Museum of

Archaeology and History

MarchéBonsecours

Maison deRadio-Canada

MolsonBreweryPalais des Congrès

de Montréal

JacquesCartierQuay

Sir George-Étienne-CartierNational Historic Site

PlaceÉmilie-Gamelin

ÉgliseSaint-Pierre-Apôtre Prison

Au-Pied-du-Courant

Jacques Cartier Bridge

Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours

Hôtel-Dieude Montréal

MontréalMuseum ofFine Arts

BelvédèreKondiaronk

Chaletdu Mont-Royal

BelvédèreCamillien-Houde

Centre Hospitalier de l’Université

de Montréal (CHUM)

Square Viger

ParcBaldwin

Champ-de-Mars

ParcLa Fontaine

SquareSaint-Louis

SquareVictoria

SquareDorchester

SquarePhillips

Mount Royal Park

RutherfordPark

Parcdes

Vétérans

ParcJeanne-Mance

SquareCabot

Queen-ElizabethGardens

ParcCampbell-

Centre

ParcVinet

QUARTIERLATIN

GAY VILLAGE

CENTRE-SUD

LITTLEBURGUNDY

WESTMOUNT

WESTMOUNT

GRIFFINTOWN

PLATEAUMONT-ROYAL

OLDMONTRÉAL

CHINATOWN

OLD PORT

QUARTIERINTERNATIONALDE MONTRÉAL

QUARTIER DES SPECTACLES

GOLDENSQUARE MILE

MILTON-PARC

DISTRICT

CITÉMULTIMÉDIA

DOWNTOWN

S t . L a w r e n c e R i v e r

Lachine Canal

BassinJacques-Cartier

BeaverLake

BassinBonsecours

N

Longueuil

(seasonal)

MONTRÉALcentreNot to be missedWorth a visitInteresting

0 400 800m

Jean

-Tal

onM

arke

t

Saint Joseph's

Oratory

Saint-Henri

Olympic Stadium,

Montréal Botanical Garden,

Montréal Insectarium,

Montréal Biodôme,

Montréal Planetarium

Hochelaga-Maisonneuve

Out

rem

ont,

Mile

End

,Li

ttle

Italy

, Mile

-Ex

World’s second largest French‑speaking

city, after Paris

Area: 482km2 (Island of Montréal)

Population: 1.7 million (City of Montréal),

3.8 million (metropolitan area)

Highest point: Mount Royal (233m)

Time zone: UTC –5

montréal

Credits Translation from French – original title: Escale à MontréalResearch and Writing: Rodolphe Lasnes, Vincent Vichit-VadakanTranslation and Copy Editing: Matthew McLauchlinEditor: Pierre LedouxEditing Assistants: Julie Brodeur, Pierre Daveluy, Annie GilbertResearch and Writing for Previous Editions of Ulysses Montréal: Julie Brodeur, Pascale Couture, Daniel Desjardins, Alain Legault, Benoît Legault, Élodie Luquet, Stéphane G. Marceau, Sybille Pluvinage, Benoit Prieur, François Rémillard, Marc Rigole, Yves Séguin

Translation for Previous Editions of Ulysses Montréal: Cindy GaraytGraphic Design: Pascal BietCover Design: Philippe ThomasLayout: Isabelle LalondePhotography, Cover Page: Les Boules Roses, Aires Libres/SDC du Village, Landscape architecture and urban design by Claude Cormier et Associés inc. © Photo : Alexandre Riendeau

This work was produced under the direction of Claude Morneau.

AcknowledgementsWe would like to thank Catherine Morellon of Tourisme Montréal and the City of Montréal for its help in creating this guide’s maps. Thank you also to Catherine Boily of the Société de Transport de Montréal (STM) for her collaboration.

Ulysses Travel Guides acknowledges the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Canada Book Fund (CBF) for this project.

Ulysses Travel Guides would also like to thank the Government of Québec – Tax credit for book publishing – Administered by SODEC.

Note to ReadersThe information contained in this guide was correct at press time. However, mistakes may slip by, omissions are always possible, establishments may close, etc. The authors and publisher hereby disclaim any liability for loss or damage resulting from omissions or errors.

Write to UsWe value your comments, corrections and suggestions, as they allow us to keep each guide up to date. You can send your comments to us in writing at the following address; the best contributions will be rewarded with a free book from Ulysses Travel Guides (please indicate which title you would like to receive).

Ulysses Travel Guides 4176 St. Denis Street, Montréal, Québec, Canada H2W 2M5, www.ulyssesguides.com, comments@ulysses.ca

Bibliothèque et Archives nationales du Québec and Library and Archives Canada cataloguing in publicationLasnes, Rodolphe, 1971- [Escale à Montréal. English] Getaway Montréal Translation of : Escale à Montréal. Includes index. ISBN 978-2-89464-502-4 1. Montréal (Québec) - Guidebooks. 2. Tourism - Québec (Province) - Montréal - Directories. I. Title. II.

Title : Escale à Montréal. English. FC2947.18.L3713 2015 917.14’28045 C2014-942782-4

No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means, including photocopying, without the written permission of the publisher. © April 2015, Ulysses Travel GuidesAll rights reservedPrinted in ItalyISBN 978-2-89464-502-4 (Printed Version)ISBN 978-2-76582-380-3 (Digital PDF Version)ISBN 978-2-76582-384-1 (Digital ePub Version)

table of contents

the best of montréal 7

exploring montréal 27

1 Old Montréal 28

2 Downtown 47

3 The Milton-Parc District and “The Main” 76

4 Quartier Latin 89

5 The Gay Village 100

6 Plateau Mont-Royal 111

7 Mount Royal 124

8 Outremont and Mile End 132

9 Hochelaga- Maisonneuve 145

10 Around the Lachine Canal 153

11 Little Italy and Mile-Ex 160

12 Île Sainte-Hélène and Île Notre-Dame 165

practical montréal 173

Formalities 174Getting there 174Accommodations 176

Getting around 181Useful information 185

Index 197English-French glossary 203

Photography credits 208

Both Latin and Nordic, European and North American, cosmopolitan and metropolitan, the largest French-speaking city in the world

after Paris and bilingual hub, Montréal is without a doubt an exceptional city. Visitors to the city appre-ciate it for many different reasons; it succeeds in delighting American tourists with its European charm, while surprising overseas travellers with its freewheeling character.

Even more than its rich architectural heritage, Montréal’s appeal lies in its unique, engaging atmosphere. And when the time comes to celebrate jazz, film, comedy, francophone singers or Saint-Jean-Baptiste Day, hundreds of thousands of people flood into the streets, transforming major events into warm public gatherings.

Montréal is a big city that has managed to keep its human touch; get to know it, and you’ll discover that it is above all a city of small streets and unique neighbourhoods, each with its own church, businesses, restaurants, and bars—in short, its own personality, shaped over the years by people from all corners of the globe.

Elusive and mysterious, the Montréal mystique is nevertheless genuine, and has as strong a hold on those who live here as on visitors immersed in it for only a few days.

ÂÂ Â10 iconic images 8ÂÂ ÂIf you have... a few hours 10ÂÂ Â ... one day 10ÂÂ Â ... a long weekend 11ÂÂ Â10 people, places and things

that make Montréal 12ÂÂ Â15 important dates 16ÂÂ Â5 unique experiences 18ÂÂ Â5 thrills for sports fans 18ÂÂ Â10 cultural experiences 19ÂÂ Â10 iconic buildings 20ÂÂ Â10 sights for kids 21ÂÂ Â5 wonderful parks 22ÂÂ Â5 free things to do 22ÂÂ Â5 views of the city 23ÂÂ Â5 mainstays of local cuisine 24ÂÂ Â5 restaurant and bar patios 24ÂÂ Â5 creative dining experiences 25ÂÂ Â5 places to shop 25ÂÂ Â10 nightspots 26

the best of montréal

7

1 Jacques Cartier Bridge (p. 106)

2 Olympic Stadium (p. 148)

3 Outdoor staircases (p. 15)

4 Place Jacques-Cartier (p. 37)

Montréal10 iconic images

The

Bes

t of

Mon

tréa

l8

5 Palais des Congrès de Montréal (p. 62)

8 Mount Royal Cross (p. 126)

6 Place Ville Marie (p. 54)

7 Notre-Dame Basilica (p. 33)

9 Biosphere (p. 168) 10 Place des Festivals (p. 59)

The

Bes

t of

Mon

tréa

l

9

If you have... a few hours  A stroll through Old Montréal (p. 28)

Travel back in time along narrow cobblestone streets.

 A walk on Mount Royal (p. 124)Climb up to the Belvédère Kondiaronk and see the whole city at your feet.

 A whirlwind tour of the Montréal Museum of Fine Arts (p. 50)Take in the museum’s prize collection of Québec and Canadian art.

...one dayThe above, plus…

 A visit to Notre-Dame Basilica (p. 33)A masterpiece of Gothic Revival.

 Exploring Pointe-à-Callière, the Montréal Museum of Archaeology and History (p. 35)

Discover the city’s deep roots and long history.

The

Bes

t of

Mon

tréa

l10

 Window-shopping on Rue Sainte-Catherine (p. 55, 73)Kilometres of small boutiques and huge department stores, and if the weather’s not cooperating, the famous Underground City.

...a long weekendThe above, plus…

 A bike ride along the Lachine Canal (p. 157)Relax, picnic, and watch the boats go past, along this green ribbon in the heart of the city.

 Discovering the Plateau Mont-Royal (p. 111)Get to know the real Montréal, heart and soul.

 Fine dining in one of the city’s famous restaurants: Au Pied de Cochon (p. 118) for gourmands, Toqué! (p. 71) for gourmets, or Le Club Chasse et Pêche (p. 43) if you’re both.

The

Bes

t of

Mon

tréa

l

11

10 people, places and things that make Montréal 1 Alleys

Tucked away between its streets and avenues, Montréal’s alleys are like the city’s backstage. Children play entire Stanley Cup series of street hockey, stray cats rule all they survey, laundry flutters overhead in Italian style, and gardens, vines, and flowers flourish under the care of neighbourhood groups. These tiny, peaceable kingdoms show off the authentic face of the city.

2 Bagels and smoked meat

Join the perpetual line-up in front of Schwartz’s or take late-night advantage of the 24/7/365 schedule of Mile End’s classic bagel bakeries, and you’ll understand how completely these traditional Jewish specialties have fused with Montréal’s identity. And not by accident: bagel connoisseurs rank the city’s typical thin, sweet, crisp bagels even above New York’s, while the sharp taste of Montréal smoked meat, less cloying than that made elsewhere, has made it a culinary icon.

3 Bixi

With its 650km of bike paths and its ubiquitous Bixi bike share stands, Montréal is a cyclist’s paradise. Inaugurated in 2009, Bixi (short for BIcycle and taXI) allows users to borrow a bike

The

Bes

t of

Mon

tréa

l12

for a quick trip at a reasonable price. A North American first, the concept has since spread to Toronto, Boston, New York, Chicago, Washington, and as far as Melbourne, Australia.

4 Festivals

From the Festival international de jazz de Montréal (the world’s largest) to Montréal en lumière, the FrancoFolies, Just for Laughs and many others, the whole year is a whirl of festivals for every taste and interest. In summer, the aptly named Place des Festivals is the heart of the action.

5 Michel Tremblay

Michel Tremblay’s Chroniques du Plateau-Mont-Royal series firmly established him as the pre-eminent chronicler of life in Montréal, and especially the Plateau. With their dialogue written in authentic joual, the city’s common spoken French, his novels and plays about the neighbourhood’s deep-rooted working-class families are intimate, colourful and full of life.

The

Bes

t of

Mon

tréa

l

13

10 people, places and things that make Montréal (cont’d)6 Montréal Canadiens

The National Hockey League’s legendary “Habs,” the Montréal Canadiens have won 24 Stanley Cups over the team’s hundred-year history. On game nights, the Bell Centre shakes with their fans’ deafening cheers, and so do sports bars and pubs throughout the city.

7 Mount Royal

Named for King Francis I by Jacques Cartier, and just minutes from downtown, the Plateau, and Outremont, Mount Royal is the flourishing green heart of the city. Citizens flock to the mountain year-round for hiking, cross-country skiing, skating, and the Tam-Tams, or just to pass the time and enjoy the magnificent views of the city from its lookouts.

8 Music scene

Montréal’s stages have hosted immortal names like Robert Charlebois, Leonard Cohen, Diane Dufresne, Jean-Pierre Ferland, Oscar Peterson, Jean Leloup, and many more. Today, it’s the likes of Arcade Fire, Pierre Lapointe, Malajube, Ariane Moffatt, Godspeed You! Black Emperor, Patrick Watson, and Grimes – world-renowned artists who regularly return to their hometown to play both huge festivals and small, intimate clubs.

The

Bes

t of

Mon

tréa

l14

9 Outdoor staircases

Montréal’s signature outdoor staircases owe their existence to the city’s equally characteristic winters: by putting the stairs outside, you save the expense of heating a stairwell. Snaking up gracefully to reach the upper storeys of the city’s typical “duplex” and “triplex” apartments, and often colourfully painted and hung with flowering vines, they’re one of the city’s most familiar and charming architectural symbols.

10 Underground city

The 32-km warren of tunnels and underground galleries that spreads out under downtown Montréal is unique in the world. Linking metro stations, office towers, universities, malls, hotels, and more, it’s a boon in Montréal’s harsh winters. But it’s also a huge labyrinth dotted with works of art, a unique urban experience to discover.

The

Bes

t of

Mon

tréa

l

15

15 important dates1 Fifth century: Nomadic Indigenous peoples settle in the

St. Lawrence river valley and on the island known today as Montréal.

2 1535: On his second voyage to North America, Jacques Cartier sails up the river to the island of Montréal, where he visits an Iroquois village and climbs the mountain, naming it Mount Royal.

3 1642: A French colony, originally named Ville-Marie, is founded on the island, under the command of Paul de Chomedey, Sieur de Maisonneuve, and with the support of Jeanne Mance.

4 1701: The French and First Nations sign a treaty, ushering in a period of peace and fostering the development of a fur trade centered on Montréal.

5 1760: Like Québec City the previous year, Montréal falls into the hands of British troops.

6 1837: Riots break out in Montréal, with the Fils de la Liberté (Sons of Liberty), a movement comprised of young French Canadians, opposing the British loyalists of the Doric Club.

7 1849: A loyalist riot leads to a fire that destroys the Parliament Building; after just five years as capital of the Province of Canada, Montréal loses that title forever.

The

Bes

t of

Mon

tréa

l16

transaction), so it is best to avoid making several small withdrawals.

Guided tours Various companies organize tours of Montréal, offering visitors interesting ways to explore the city. Though there are numerous options, consider the walking, bus and boat tours offered by the fol-lowing companies.

Amphitour $35, children $18; May to Oct; tours leaves from the corner of Rue de la Commune and Boulevard St-Laurent, 514-849-5181, www.montreal-amphibus-tour.comAmphitour’s excursions take place aboard an “amphibious” bus. The company offers guided tours of Old Montréal and the Old Port on land and water.

Bateau-Mouche mid-May to mid-Oct; Jacques Cartier Quay, Old Port, 514-849-9952 or 800-361-9952, www.bateaumouche.caRiver cruises with tourist com-mentary offer an interesting pers-pective on Montréal. Various trips are available (starting at $24 for a 1h cruise), including some that include lunch (starting at $50; duration 1h) or dinner (starting at $96; duration 3h).

Fitz & Follwell 115 Avenue du Mont-Royal Ouest, 514-840-0739, www.fitzandfollwell.comA handsome shop for urban cyclists which also offers foot and cycle tours (bike rentals available) of various neighbourhoods such as the

Plateau and Mile End, as well as the city’s unique features (the under-ground city, Montréal in winter...).

Kaléidoscope year-round; 6592 Avenue De Chateaubriand, 514-990-1872, www.tourskaleidoscope.comA variety of guided tours, such as themed tours based on archi-tecture, literature and gastrono-my, and visits exploring the city’s various neighbourhoods, its green alleys and the underground city.

Le Petit Navire mid-May to mid-Oct; Jacques Cartier Quay, Old Port, 514-602-1000, www.lepetitnavire.caCommented cruises on small elec-tric motorboats, touring the Old Port ($19; duration 45 min) and the Lachine Canal ($26; duration 2h).

Ça Roule MontréalGuided bike tours (see p. 184).

My BicycletteGuided bike tours (see p. 184).

Health Vaccinations are not necessary for people coming from Europe or the United States. Visitors are strongly advised, particularly for medium or long-term stays, to take out health and accident insurance. There are different types, so it is best to shop around. Bring along all medication, especially prescrip-tion medicine. Unless otherwise stated, tap water is drinkable eve-rywhere in Québec.

Pra

ctic

al M

ontr

éal

187Useful information

Newspapers International newspapers can easi-ly be found in Montréal. The major Montréal newspapers are, in English, The Gazette (www. montrealgazette.com), and in French, Le Devoir (www.ledevoir.com), La Presse (www.lapresse.ca) and Le Journal de Montréal (www.journalde montreal.com).

The city’s free cultural newspa-pers, Cult MTL (monthly; http:// cultmontreal.com) in English and Voir (every two weeks; http://voir.ca) in French, can be found in many public places such as bars, restau-rants and certain boutiques.

Professional sports Car racing

The Grand Prix du Canada (Cir-cuit Gilles-Villeneuve, Île Notre-Dame, 514-350-0000, www. circuitgillesvilleneuve.ca) is held in the middle of June. Grand Prix wee-kend features a wide range of events both around the racetrack and in the city, notably on Rue Crescent.

Football

The Montréal Alouettes (Canadian Football League) play at the Per-cival Molson Stadium (475 Ave-nue des Pins Ouest, 514-787-2525, www.montrealalouettes.com). The regular season begins in late May and ends in late October.

HockeyThe world-famous Montréal Cana-diens National Hockey League team plays at the Bell Centre (1260 Rue De La Gauchetière Ouest, 514-790-2525 or 877-668-8269, www.cana-diens.com). There are 82 games during the regular season, 42 of which are played at home. Then come the playoffs, at the end of which the winning team takes home the legendary Stanley Cup. Tickets are often snapped up weeks or even months in advance.

SoccerThe Montréal Impact, the city’s soccer team, plays at the Saputo Stadium (Parc Olympique, 4750 Rue Sherbrooke Est, 514-328-3668, www.impactmontreal.com) from March to October. A profes-

Pra

ctic

al M

ontr

éal

188 Practical Montréal

sional team, member of the Ame-rican Major League Soccer, the Impact presents great soccer just like in Europe.

Tennis

At Uniprix Stadium (Parc Jarry, 285 Rue Faillon Ouest, 514-273-1234 or 866-338-2685, www. stadeuniprix.com), the best tennis players in the world compete each year in early August in the Rogers Cup (www.rogerscup.com). The tournament’s games are divided between Montréal and Toronto.

Public holidays The following is a list of public holi-days in Québec. Most administra-tive offices and banks are closed on these days.

New Year January 1st

Good Friday

Easter Monday

Journée Nationale des Patriotes Monday before May 25th

Québec National Holiday (Saint-Jean-Baptiste) June 24th

Canada Day July 1st

Labour Day First Monday in September

Thanksgiving Second Monday in October

Remembrance Day November 11th

Christmas and Boxing Day December 25th and 26th

Formula 1 Grand Prix at Circuit Gilles Villeneuve

Pra

ctic

al M

ontr

éal

189Useful information

Restaurants Montréal has long been firmly esta-blished as a capital of haute cui-sine. The city’s chefs, each more inventive than the last, combine an emphasis on fresh local pro-ducts with a passion for flavours and styles from around the world. The result is creative, colourful, and delectable cuisine blending the tra-ditional and the exotic.

Montréal restaurants also give excel-lent value for money; even the fan-ciest are much more affordable than in other big cities. The originality and quality of the city’s fast food is also remarkable: it’s known across Canada for its steamed hotdogs (steamés), souvlaki, the celebrated poutine,

and especially two unique, signa-ture treats of Jewish origin: Montréal bagels and Montréal smoked meat. Although you may have learned dif-ferently in your French classes, Que-becers refer to breakfast as déjeuner, lunch as dîner and dinner as souper. Many restaurants offer a “daily spe-cial” (called spécial du jour). The table d’hôte (a choice of appetizers and main dishes, plus coffee and dessert) is also an attractive option.

The “Exploring Montréal” section contains numerous listings for res-taurants in each neighbourhood. Note that reservations are often wise, and sometimes a necessity.

Unless otherwise specified, prices in this guide are for a meal for one

ÂStreet Cuisine

After being banned in 1947, street cuisine finally returned to Montréal in 2013. But not just any street cuisine! Forget hot dog carts and get ready for a unique gourmet experience. The trailers have to meet not only strict hygiene standards, but also exacting selection criteria for the selection and quality of the dishes. The result is a variety and quality well in keeping with the city’s reputation for fine cuisine. Prices vary but are generally reasonable ($-$$).

The project is still getting started, and for the time being is limited to about 30 trailers in predetermined locations from May to October. To find out more, including current locations, check out www.cuisinederue.org and www.streetfoodmtl.com.

Pra

ctic

al M

ontr

éal

190 Practical Montréal

person, excluding drinks, taxes (see p. 191) and tip (see p. 193).

$ less than $15$$ $15 to $25$$$ $26 to $50$$$$ more than $50

Some of the restaurants in this guide are particularly noteworthy; look for the Ulysses label ù first.

Taxes Unlike in Europe, the ticket price on items usually does not include tax. Two taxes are charged on goods and services, the 5% GST (fede-ral Goods and Services Tax, TPS in French), and the 9.975% QST (Qué-bec sales tax, TVQ in French). . An additional 3.5% tax is also added to all accommodations in Montréal except youth hostels (see p. 176).

Telecommunications The area code for the island of Montréal is 514; a second “overlay” area code (438) has been progres-sively introduced. The area code for the region around the island is 450, with an overlay area code 579; most of these two area codes, including the Montréal suburbs, are a local call from the city. Note that since 2006, the area code must be dial-led before all phone numbers in the 514, 438, 450, and 579 area codes.

For long-distance calls, dial 1 fol-lowed by the area code, then the seven-digit number. Telephone numbers preceded by 800, 855, 866, 877 or 888 are toll-free from Canada and sometimes even from the United States. Note that you must dial 1 before toll-free num-bers. To reach an operator, dial 0. To

Grumman ’78’s street food truck.

Pra

ctic

al M

ontr

éal

191Useful information

call the U.K., dial 011-44 followed by the local area code and number.

Though their numbers have been dwindling, public telephones can still be found in many public places. Rates are less expensive than in Europe; unlimited-time local calls cost 50¢. For long-distance calls, stock up on quarters or purchase a telephone card. These are available at newsstands, some convenience stores, drugstores, and gas stations.

Tickets Admission: 855-790-1245, www.admission.com

Ticketpro 514-790-1111 or 866-908-9090, www.ticketpro.caThese ticket networks sell tickets for shows, concerts, and sporting events over the phone or online.

You’ll need a credit card. Service fees, which vary from event to event, are added to the ticket price.

La Vitrine every day 11am to 8pm; 2 Rue Ste-Catherine Est, 514-285-4545 or 866-924-5538, www.lavitrine.comFor last-minute tickets at reduced prices, head to this outlet on Rue Sainte-Catherine.

Time zones Québec is in the Eastern Standard Time zone (except for the Îles de la Madeleine, or Magdalen Islands, which are an hour ahead). This puts the province 3hrs ahead of Pacific Time (west coast of North Ame-rica), 5hrs behind Greenwich and 6hrs behind most continental Euro-pean countries. Daylight-saving time starts on the second Sunday in March and ends one week later

The 2-22 building, home to La Vitrine.

Pra

ctic

al M

ontr

éal

192 Practical Montréal

than it previously did, on the first Sunday in November.

Tipping In general, tipping applies to all table and bar service: restaurants, bars and nightclubs (no tipping in fast-food restaurants). Tipping is also standard in taxis.

The tip is usually about 15% of the bill before taxes, but varies, of course, depending on the quality of service. Unlike in Europe, tips are not included in the bill, so it is up to the client to calculate it and give it to the server. Airport skycaps and hotel bellhops generally receive $1 per bag; hotel maids get $1 to $2 per person per day. Failing to tip is very poorly regarded!

Tourist information Centre Infotouriste de Montréal late Jun to late August every day 9am to 7pm; Sep, Oct and Apr to late Jun every day 9am to 6pm; Nov to Mar every day 9am to 5pm; 1255 Rue Peel corner Rue Ste-Catherine; 514-873-2015 or 877-266-5687, www.tourisme-montreal.org; Peel metroThe city’s tourist centre provides detailed information, maps, flyers and accommodation information for Montréal and all the tourist regions of Québec.

Bureau d’Accueil Touristique du Vieux-Montréal: Apr and May every day 10am to 6pm, Jun to Sep every day 9am to 7pm, Oct every day 10am to 6pm; 174 Rue Notre-Dame Est (corner Place Jacques-Cartier), 514-873-2015; Champ-de-Mars metro

Travellers with disabilities Kéroul 4545 Avenue Pierre-De Coubertin, Montréal, QC, H1V 0B2, 514-252-3104, www.keroul.qc.caKéroul is a non-profit organisa-tion that collaborates with Tou-risme Québec to develop, promote and provide information on tou-rism infrastructures and cultu-ral events that are accessible to people with disabilities throughout the province.

Association Québécoise pour le Loisir des Personnes Handicapées 4545 Avenue Pierre-De Coubertin, C.P. 1000, succ. M, Montréal, QC, H1V 3R2, 514-252-3144, www.aqlph.qc.caContact the AQLPH for informa-tion on groups that organize rec-reational and sporting activities for people with disabilities.

Wine, beer and alcohol In Québec, the sale of alcohol is regulated by a provincial authori-ty, the Société des Alcools du Québec (SAQ), which runs the province’s liquor stores. To find the nearest outlet, call 514-254-2020 or visit the SAQ Web site: www.saq.com.

Good imported and domestic beers and decent wines are also sold in supermarkets and dépan-neurs. Legal age to buy and drink alcohol is 18.

Pra

ctic

al M

ontr

éal

193Useful information

Calendar of events

January

Fête des Neiges Parc Jean-Drapeau, www.fetedesneiges.comA family festival celebrating the pleasures of winter.

February

Montréal en Lumière www.montrealenlumiere.comLight shows, the hugely popular all-night Nuit Blanche culture festival, concerts and gastronomy bring a bit of magic to the dead of winter.

Les Rendez-Vous du Cinéma Québécois www.rvcq.comFeature-length and short films, both fiction and documentaries, by Québec directors.

April

Blue Metropolis Montréal International Literary Festival www.metropolisbleu.orgA showcase of nearly 300 authors from around the world.

Vues d’Afrique www.vuesdafrique.orgAfrican and Creole cinema.

May

Festival TransAmériques www.fta.qc.caA celebration of contemporary dance and theatre.

Piknic Électronik Parc Jean-Drapeau, www. piknicelectronik.comOpen-air concerts with big-name DJs, every Sunday from May to September.

JuneSuoni Per Il Popolo Casa Del Popolo, 4873 Boulevard St-Laurent, www.casadelpopolo.comPresents the latest up-and-coming talent in the city’s music scene, as well as established musicians from around the world.

Mutek www.mutek.orgWorld-class electronic music festival.

FrancoFolies de Montréal Quartier des Spectacles, www. francofolies.comPromotes French-language music and song.

L’International des Feux Loto-Québec www.montrealfeux.comThe world’s top pyrotechnists come to La Ronde (on Île Sainte-Hélène) to present top-quality musical fireworks displays every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday from late June to early August. You can also watch the fireworks from the Jacques Cartier Bridge (closed to traffic on firework nights), the riverbanks, and the Clock Tower Beach (see p. 40).

Festival International de Jazz de Montréal Quartier des Spectacles, www.montrealjazzfest.comQuite simply, the biggest jazz festival in the world.

Pra

ctic

al M

ontr

éal

194 Practical Montréal

JulyJust for Laughs Festival (Festival Juste pour Rire) Quartier des Spectacles, www.hahaha.comShows by comedians from around the world.

Divers/Cité Village et Vieux-Montréal, www.diverscite.orgMontréal’s lesbian, gay, bisexual, and trans pride festival.

AugustMontréal Pride (Fierté-Montréal) second week of August; 514-903-6193, www.fiertemontrealpride.comThe city’s colourful LGBT pride parade.

Montréal First Peoples Festival (Présence Autochtone) Place des Festivals, www.nativelynx.qc.caA “village” showcasing Canadian Indigenous artists and craftspeople,

with screening of films by Indige-nous directors.

Montréal Film Festival (Festival des Films du Monde de Montréal) www.ffm-montreal.orgA cinema competition screening films from around the world.

October

Festival du Nouveau Cinéma www.nouveaucinema.caDigital creation and independent cinema.

December

Salon des Métiers d’Art du Québec Place Bonaventure, www.salondesmetiersdart.comQuébec artisans exhibit and sell their work.

Montréal en Lumière.

Pra

ctic

al M

ontr

éal

195Calendar of events