Embed Size (px)
Citation preview
Natural Cosmetic Actives
Summary
Our Activity p.4
High-Tech Actives p.6 • Amiderm ER • Amiperfect ER • Amiporine® ER • Cytokalmine® ER• Glucohyami • Lipolami® ER• Padinami®• Pearlami• Preparami® ER • Protectami® • Repulpami ER
Plant Extracts p.15
Water soluble p.17
• Cosme-Phytamis®• Cosme-Phytamis® organic NEW
• Cosme-PhytaMIX
Oil soluble p.26
• Lipidamis®
Multifunctional Formulation Ingredients p.29
Texture Agents p.30
• Amigel® • Amigum • Lipolami® ER• Oils• Butters • Clays
Preservative p.34
• Amipreserve
Exfoliants p.35
• Scrubamis®• Scrubamis® ER NEW
• Silicamis®
3
Quality and Safety of the Supply
Origin of the Plants � Cultivated plants or plants that have guaranteed renewal thanks to monitored harvesting. � Plants are cultivated close to our manufacturing site (reducing the carbon footprint of the final product).
Cultivation Techniques � Monitoring our cultivating techniques in line with the Guideline on Good Agricultural and Collection Practices (GACP) for Starting Materials of Herbal Origin issued in 2006.
� Environment-friendly agronomy techniques to improve the quality of the plant.
Post-harvest Plant Control � Content in active principles. � Control of contaminants (pesticides, heavy metal etc.).
Since 1978, Alban Muller has developed its products following an eco-responsible approach. From the seed to the final product, each step is monitored, and we focus on limiting the impact on man and the environment.
Our Activity
4
Monitoring our Impact on the Environment � Selection of renewable raw materials. � Optimised, eco-clean manufacturing processes. � Reduction of water consumption. � Sustainable waste-management (recycling). � Monitoring the carbon footprint of our manufacturing site.
Manufacturing capacity � Dry extracts: 2 t/day. � Liquid extracts: 15 t/day.
A certified CSR approach � E.P.V. State label: Excellence model of the French know how. � EcoVadis CSR assessment: Gold level. � CSR challenge Trophy 2015. � Cosmetic Valley eco-responsible charter: 4 peonies (level of excellence).
Our Services
Our specialists are at your disposal to develop your exclusive, tailor-made cosmetic ingredients and skin care products, 100% made in France.
Our Activity
5
Natural
and N
o pres
ervati
ve
High-Tech Actives
6
Efficacy tested actives, derived: � From our R&D expertise. � From the latest scientific innovation.
Derived from eco-valorization: � Valorization of by-products from industries.
Inspired by the observation of nature: �Biomimetism. �Adaptation strategy and plant defense mechanisms. �Recognized activity of plants.
Amiderm ER Softness and physiological balance
Pearlami Radiance and youth glow
Amiperfect ER For a perfect complexion
Cytokalmine® ER The anti-inflammatory solution for all ages
Glucohyami Vegetable Glucosamine booster of Hyaluronic Acid
Preparami® ER The anti-stress & anti-pollution active that preserves the skin youth
Protectami®The Anti-Ageing that protects actively the skin from pollution
Repulpami ER Lifting effect without surgery
Amiporine® ER A replenished youthful skin
Padinami®The ultimate youth active
High-Tech Actives
Lipolami® ER Optimized sensoriality & Skin barrier protection
7
Amiderm ER
COSMOS Amiperfect ER
COSMOS Amiporine® ER
COSMOS Cytokalmine® ER
COSMOS Glucohyami
COSMOS Lipolami® ER
Padinami®
Pearlami
COSMOS Preparami® ER
Protectami®
COSMOS Repulpami ER
Anti-
wrin
kle
Soot
hing
Purif
ying
Plum
ping
Prev
entin
g
Rege
nera
ting
Phys
iolo
gica
l Bal
ance
Brig
hten
ing
Firm
ing
Antio
xidan
t
Moi
stur
izing
Anti-
pollu
tion
COSMOSLegend: Anti-ageingLegend:
High-Tech Actives
8
PF004779
Alban Muller research draws inspiration from nature observation in the development of natural actives.
Indeed, nature is a wonderful reserve of actives with biological properties for the skin.
High-Tech actives are designed to answer skin specific needs by a stimulation of natural physio-logic mechanisms in order to restore its homeostasis.
See table opposite:
Amiderm ER Softness and physiological balance Description• 100% natural blend of witch hazel bark and oak gallnut extracts,
plant-origin amino acids, in glycerin.
Skin Benefits• Blend of plant extracts acting in synergy to prevent odours and
irritations.• Skin pH stabilizer thanks to a clever anti-urease action.• Soothing and hydration.
Tested Efficacy • In vitro test : pH measurements.
INCI• Glycerin (and) Water (and) Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Bark/Leaf Extract
(and) Quercus Infectoria (Oak) Gall Extract (and) Arginine (and) Leucine
High-Tech Actives
9
Amiperfect ER COSMOS
For a perfect complexion Description• Purified wintergreen extract.• The first 100% natural pure salicylic acid molecule.• Alternative to synthetic salicylic acid.
Skin Benefits • Keratolytic, anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory activities.• Purifies the skin, eliminates sebum excess and erases imperfections.• Smoothes wrinkles, resurfaces skin and restores radiance.
Tested Efficacy • Bibliography: Keratolytic, anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory activities.
INCI• Gaultheria Procumbens (Wintergreen) Leaf Extract
PF002688
Amiporine® ER COSMOS
A replenished youthful skinDescription• Purified extract of pomegranate in glycerin.
Skin Benefits• Moisturizing and anti-ageing active for a redensified, firmer, rejuvenated skin.• Stimulation of aquaporins, proteins essential to the circulation of water
in the skin.• Increase in collagen by reduction of collagenases.
Tested Efficacy• Ex vivo test: stimulation of aquaporins (AQP3).• In vitro test:
� Optimization of cell communication � Collagen increase � Collagenase reduction
INCI• Glycerin (and) Punica Granatum Fruit Extract
PF004338
High-Tech Actives
10
Cytokalmine® ER COSMOS
The anti-inflammatory solution for all agesDescription• Dry extract of pomegranate pericarp, in a maltitol carrier. • Highly concentrated in polyphenols.• Titrated in punicalagin and ellagic derivatives.
Skin Benefits• Strong anti-inflammatory active for sensitive and atopic skin.• Very high antioxidant activity still improving the reduction of
inflammatory reactions.• Protects from inflamm’ageing and thus premature ageing.
Tested Efficacy• Ex vivo test, tested on atopic skin model: anti-inflammatory properties
through the reduction of cytokines IL-8 secretion.• Ex vivo test: antioxidant activity through the reduction.
of free-radical production.• Prior in vitro test: anti-inflammatory synergistic action of the Cytokalmine® ER
polyphenols.
INCI• Maltitol (and) Punica Granatum Extract
PF004996
Glucohyami COSMOS
Vegetable Glucosamine booster of Hyaluronic AcidDescription• Chicory root dried extract stabilized on a maltodextrin carrier.• Cosmetic active standardized and titrated at 10% to 15% in glucosamine.• 100% vegetable, Vegan and non-allergenic alternative to Glucosamine from
animal or biotechnology origin.
Skin Benefits • Biomimetic and biocompatible activator of the synthesis of hyaluronic acid.• Intense hydration, Repulping and anti-wrinkle.
Tested Efficacy • in vitro test: Stimulation of the hyaluronic acid synthesis by fibroblasts versus pure glucosamine.
INCI• Cichorium Intybus (Chicory) Root Extract (and) Maltodextrin
PF006115
High-Tech Actives
11
High-Tech Actives
Padinami®The ultimate youth activeDescription• Purified extract of Padina, a brown algae from the Mediterranean sea,
in jojoba oil.
Skin Benefits• Restores skin elasticity and moisture for a plumper, firmer and visibly
younger looking skin.• Stimulates natural synthesis of Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) and collagen.• A clever mode of action by cell communication.
Tested Efficacy• Ex vivo test: GAGs stimulation / moisturizing, skin resistance.• In vitro test and ex vivo tests: stimulation of collagen synthesis / elasticity,
firmness.• Ex vivo test: improvement of skin quality.
INCI• Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (and) Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract
PF003775
Lipolami® ER COSMOS
Optimized sensoriality & Skin barrier protection Description• 100% natural fluid and dry soft touch esters obtained from milk thistle oil.
Skin Benefits • Skin barrier protection.• Multifunctional ingredient.• Natural alternative to silicones.
Tested Efficacy Cosmetic activity
• Ex vivo test: skin barrier protection thanks to the richness in linoleic acid that reinforces cell cohesion.
INCI• Silybum Marianum Ethyl Ester
PF005329
12
High-Tech Actives
Preparami® ER COSMOS
The anti-stress & anti-pollution active that preserves the skin youthDescription• 100% natural purified extract of prickly pear in jojoba oil.
Skin Benefits • Protect the skin to external aggressions by conditioning cells thanks to a
faster Heat Shock Proteins (Hsp) synthesis.• Repair the skin by stimulating its natural repairing system.• Prevent premature ageing due to stress and pollution.
Tested Efficacy• In vitro tests: HSP stimulation in stress conditions.• In vitro test: reduction of SA-ß-galactosidase marker of ageing.• Ex vivo test: stimulation of skin repairing factors (PPAR, desmine).
INCI• Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (and) Opuntia Ficus Indica Fruit Extract.
PF003845
Pearlami Radiance and youth glow Description• A 100% natural extract of hydrolyzed soluble protein from Tahitian
black pearl, in glycerin.
Skin Benefits• Reinforced skin barrier• Anti-aging• Regenerative
Tested efficacy • Ex vivo Test:
� Skin general morphology study � Ki67 Marker: epidermial cell regeneration � Involucrin Marker: reinforce barrier function
INCI• Glycerin (and) Hydrolysed conchiolin protein
PF005965
13
High-Tech Actives
Repulpami ER COSMOS
Lifting effect without surgeryDescription• Blend of white hibiscus and baobab fruit extracts, in glycerin.• Developed as part of a USAID project in Senegal to promote a sustainable
economy and better working conditions for women.• From a scientific innovation: "Cosmetogenetic".
Skin Benefits• Global anti-ageing active: anti-wrinkle, plumping, firming.• Safe and non-invasive lifting effect: inhibition of muscles contractions.• Plumping effect by inhibiting lipolysis and by stimulating adipogenesis.• Firming effect by stimulating the expression of the genes coding for the
proteins responsible for epidermis cohesion and firmness.
Tested Efficacy• In vitro test: mesure des contractions musculaires.• In vitro test: analysis of SIRT1 gene expression.• In vitro test: analysis of the CLAUDIN-1, SPRR and NICE-1 genes expression
responsible for cohesion and firmness.• In vivo efficacy self-assessment test on volunteers.
INCI• Glycerin (and) Water (and) Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract (and) Hibiscus
Sabdariffa Flower Extract
PF004381
Protectami®The Anti-Ageing that protects actively the skin from pollutionDescription• Purified extract of Padina, a brown alga from the Mediterranean sea, in glycerin.
Skin Benefits• Improves skin resistance by ensuring skin cohesion: stimulation of the
synthesis of calcium depending cell structures.• Improves cell communication for an optimized skin metabolism.• Protects the skin, especially from pollution.
Tested Efficacy • In vitro et ex vivo tests: Increase in cytokeratins and desmosomial proteins.• In vitro test: Better cell communication between keratinocytes.• Ex vivo test: Protection against pollutants.• NEW In vitro test: increase of LOXL1 synthesis and elastin production by a
reduction of enzymatic activity of proteases and elastase.
INCI• Glycerin (and) Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract
PF000082
14
Plant Extracts
No preservative
Natural solvents
Plant-origin carrier
No petrochemical derivatives
15
Plant Extracts � The plant extracts are preparations obtained through a specific solvent’s extractive action on a
dry or fresh plant. They contain the plant’s active components dissolved in the solvent. � The extraction process is always studied in order to completely respect the active molecules’
integrity. Each type of extract is therefore defined by its mode of preparation and the nature of its solvent.
Eco-responsible policy, 100% natural � In compliance with its eco-responsible policy and in respect of the plant resource, Alban
Muller develops its eco-designed plants extracts, 100% natural, they are obtained thanks to environmentally clean and exclusive processes particularly suitable for the extraction and the preservation of active molecules.
Plant Extracts
Lipidamis®
Oil-soluble plant extracts
Cosme-Phytamis®
New generation of natural actives for cosmetic
Cosme-PhytaMIXCocktails of actives to enhance formulas
Cosme-Phytamis® ORGANICThe new generation of organic-certifiable active ingredients
16
Quality
* Good Manufacturing Practices
� GMP* for cosmetic ingredients (EFfCI) � Pharmaceutical grade: EU GMP* Part II for pharmaceutical active substances � ISO 9001
COSMOSLegend:
Analytical identification
Optimal concentrationCosme-Phytamis®
New generation of natural actives for cosmeticHigh quality• 5 to 10 higher concentration in active molecules than market extracts
thanks to an eco-responsible and exclusive manufacturing process.• Titration in active molecules by HPLC: Guaranteed plant activity.• Standardization: Constant and reproducible concentration.• COSMOS compliant.• COSMOS approved (see in the Cosme-Phytamis® Range).
Full safety and regulation compliancy• Full traceability from the plant seed to the extract.• Possible traceability of Cosme-Phytamis® in formulated product
by analytical method.• Possible identification of over than 90% of the phytochemical
composition.• Good Manufacturing Practices for cosmetic ingredients (EFfSI).• Exhaustive administrative and technical file replying to the demands of the
European legislation: Raw Material Identification Data Sheet (RMID).• Approved in China (IECIC listed)
Recommended usage dose• 1-5%
Price and delivery • Competitive prices.• Immediate availability from stock or delivery within 21 days.
Water Soluble Plant Extracts
Réf : p 19
17
Zeodrate Dry concentrate, titrated in active molecules
Zeodration Innovative drying vacuum technology at low tempera-ture without altering the active principles
Cosme-Phytami®Concentrated and titrated extract
Glycerine
Crushingand sieving
Standardization
Zeodration
Zeodrate ( native extract )
Zeodrate
Cosme-Phytami®
Standardized liquid extract obtained by incorporating the zeodrate in plant-origin glycerin:
� 100% natural � Preservative-free � Optimal biocompatibility with the skin
Alban Muller Exclusivity
Monitoring of plant supply
Varietal selection• Optimized agronomic qualities.• Maximum content in active molecules.
Partnerships with local expert farmers• Guaranteed quality and traceability.• Culture according to the Guideline on Good Agricultural and Collection Practices (GACP) for
starting Materials of Herbal Origin adopted by the European Medicines Agency (EMA): control of the cultivation conditions, contaminants, etc.
Control of the content in active molecules before harvesting
Optimized extraction parameters• Targeted selection of molecules of interest by proper adjustments of solvent proportions:
� Extraction of molecules at their optimal level, substantiated by analytical verification.• Exclusive and eco-friendly technology:
� To preserve active molecules.
Water Soluble Plant Extracts
18
Code Cosme-Phytamis® name Latin name Plant part Tracers Plant activities
PF005641 Acerola Malpighia glabra L. Fruit Organic acids expressed as tartaric acid
Tonifiying, antioxidant, regenerating
PF005649 Aloe Vera Aloe barbadensis Mill. Gel Organic acids Moisturising, regenerating, restructuring
COSMOS PF005710 Apricot Prunus armeniaca L. Fruit Organic acids expressed as tartaric acid Softening, tonifiying
PF005457Arnica (mountain)
Arnica montana L. Flower Phenolic compounds expressed as hyperoside Anti-blotches, softening
COSMOS PF005439 Assai palm Euterpe oleracea Mart. Fruit Total polyphenols Antioxidant, anti-ageing
PF005997 Bamboo
Bambusa arundinacea (Retz.) Willd. Syn. Bambusa bambos (L.) Voss Bambusa vulgaris Schrad.
Stem Total polyphenols Exfoliating, purifying
PF005549 Birch Betula pubescens Ehrh. Leaf Flavonoids expressed as hyperoside Remineralising, cleansing
PF005512 Blackberry bush Rubus fruticosus L. Fruit Total polyphenols Microcirculation activating, antioxidant
PF005886 Blackcurrant Ribes nigrum L. Fruit Total polyphenols Microcirculation activating, antioxidant
COSMOS PF005724Blackcurrant bush (organic)
Ribes nigrum L. Leaf Phenolic compounds expressed as Isoquercitrin Antioxidant, soothing
PF005394 Bladderwrack Fucus vesiculosus L. Thallus Alginates Remineralising, slimming
PF005450 Cabbage rose Rosa centifolia L. Flower Phenolic compounds expressed as quercitrine Softening, regenerating
PF005963 Camu-camuMyrciaria dubia (Kunth) McVaugh Fruit Ascorbic acid Antioxidant, exfoliating
COSMOS PF005685 Carrot (organic) Daucus carota L. Root Organic acids Restructuring, antioxidant
PF005434 Centella Centella asiatica (L.) Urb. Aerial part Asiaticoside Anti-ageing, regenerating
COSMOS PF005892 Chamisso Arnica Arnica chamissonis Less. Flower Phenolic compounds expressed as Hyperoside Regenerating, softening
COSMOS PF005388Chamomile (German)
Chamomilla recutita (L.) Rauschert Flower Flavonoids expressed
as apigenin-7-glucoside Softening, hair highlights
PF005398Chamomile (Roman)
Chamaemelum nobile (L.) All. Flower Phenolic compounds expressed
as chlorogenic acid Softening, soothing
PF005435 Chestnut Castanea sativa Mill. Seed Glucides Restructuring, nourishing
PF005396 Coffee Coffea arabica L. Seed (green coffee)
Caffein Anti-ageing, slimming
PF005912 Common verbena Verbena officinalis L. Aerial part Tannins Soothing, regenerating, softening
PF005401 Cornflower Centaurea cyanus L. Flower Chlorogenic acid Softening, regenerating
PF005914 Corn poppy Papaver rhoeas L. Flower Anthocyanins expressed as Cyanidin chloride Soothing, antioxidant
PF005889 Cotton bush Gossypium hirsutum L. Seed Organic acids expressed as Malic acid Softening, moisturizing
PF005986 Cucumber Cucumis sativus L. Fruit Proteins Tonifying, brightening
PF005391 Devil's clawHarpagophytum procumbens (Burch.) DC. ex Meissn.
Root Harpagoside Softening, soothing
COSMOS PF005675 Dragon FruitHylocereus undatus (Haw.) Britt. & Rose Fruit Organic acids Moisturising, antioxidant
COSMOS PF005692 FenugreekTrigonella foenum-graecum L. Seed Flavonoids expressed as isovitexin Cleansing, tensor
The Cosme-Phytamis® Range
Water Soluble Plant Extracts
19
Code Cosme-Phytamis® name Latin name Plant part Tracers Plant activities
PF005887 Flax Linum usitatissimum L. Seed Carbohydrates Nourishing, antioxidant
COSMOS PF005395 Ginkgo tree Ginkgo biloba L. Leaf Phenolic compounds expressed as rutin Anti-ageing, antioxidant
COSMOS PF005389 Ginseng (red) Panax ginseng C. A. Mey. Root Ginsenosides Anti-ageing, cleansing
COSMOS PF005642 Grapefruit Citrus paradisi Macfad. Fruit Organic acids expressed as citric acid Moisturising, tonifying
PF005920 Grapevine Vitis vinifera L. Seed Total polyphenols Antioxidant, anti-ageing, microcirculation activating
PF005431 Great burdock Arctium lappa L. Root Phenolic compounds expressed as chlorogenic acid Seboregulating, purifying
COSMOS PF005433 Guarana Paullinia cupana H.B.& K. Seed Caffein Astringent, slimming
COSMOS PF005690 Guava Psidium guajava L. Fruit Organic acids Moisturizing, regenerating
PF006033 HennaLawsonia inermis L. syn. Lawsonia alba Lam. Leaf Tannins Purifying, soothing
PF005672 Honey Apis mellifera Beehive product Carbohydrates Nourishing, soothing
PF006004 Hops Humulus lupulus L. Female infloresecence
Phenolic compounds expressed as Isoquercitrin Moisturizing, purifying
COSMOS PF005459 Horse chestnut treeAesculus hippocastanum L. Seed Escine Microcirculation activating,
cleansing
COSMOS PF005458 Horsetail Equisetum arvense L. Sterile aerial part
Phenolic compounds expressed as isoquercitrine Firming, seboregulating
PF005409 IrisIris germanica L. var. florentina (L.) Dykes Rhizome Isoflavones glycosides expressed
as genistin Anti-ageing, purifying
PF005392 Ivy Hedera helix L. Leaf Phenolic compounds expressed as chlorogenic acid Cleansing, slimming
COSMOS PF005674Jasmine Flower
Jasminum officinale L. Flower Flavonoids expressed as rutin Purifying, softening
COSMOS PF005453 LavenderLavandula angustifolia Mill. Flower Phenolic compounds expressed as
luteoline-7-glucoside Softening, relaxing
PF006054 Lemon Citrus limon (L.) Burm. f. Fruit Organic acids expressed as citric acid Tonifying, brightening
PF005647 LemongrassCymbopogon citratus (DC. ex Nees) Stap Aerial part Phenolic compounds express
as isoorientin Antioxidant, purifying
PF005449 Licorice Glycyrrhiza glabra L. Root Glycyrrhizic acid Moisturizing, cleansing
COSMOS PF005454 Lily (white) Lilium candidum L. Flower Phenolic compounds expressed as chlorogenic acid Softening, regenerating
PF005451 Linden tree Tilia cordata Mill. Flower Flavonoids expressed as isoquercitrine Softening, refreshing
COSMOS PF005893 Lotus Nelumbo nucifera Gaertn. Flower Phenolic compounds expressed as Rutin Moisturizing, softening
PF005774 Mallow Malva sylvestris L. Flower Phenolic compounds expressed as caffeic acid Softening, antioxidant
PF005711 Mandarin Citrus reticulata Blanco Fruit Organic acids expressed as malic acid Tonifiying, antioxidant
COSMOS PF005691 Mango Mangifera indica L. Fruit Organics acids Moisturizing, regenerating
COSMOS PF005806 Marsh mallow Althaea officinalis L. Root Mucilages Moisturizing, softening
COSMOS PF005397 Mate Ilex paraguariensis St.-Hil. Leaf Total polyphenols Slimming, antioxidant
COSMOS PF005448 MeadowsweetFilipendula ulmaria (L.) Maxim.
Flowering top
Phenolic compounds expressed as rutin Softening, exfoliating
COSMOS PF005452Mulberry (white) tree
Morus alba L. syn. Morus tatarica L. Root Total polyphenols Brightening, antioxidant
PF005913 Oak Quercus robur L. Bark Tannins Softening, purifying
COSMOS PF005704 Oat Avena sativa L. Fruit (said grain) Carbohydrates Nourishing, regenerating
Water Soluble Plant Extracts
20
Code Cosme-Phytamis® name Latin name Plant part Tracers Plant activities
PF005979 Olive tree Olea europaea L. Leaf Oleuropein Soothing, microcirculation activating
COSMOS PF005888 PapayaCarica papaya L. Syn. Papaya carica Gaertn Fruit Organic acids expressed as
Citric acid Tonifiying, exfoliating
COSMOS PF005442 Passion flower Passiflora incarnata L. Flowering aerial part Flavonoids expressed as vitexin Antioxidant, anti-ageing
COSMOS PF005610 PeachPrunus persica L. Batsch Syn. Persica vulgaris Mill. Fruit Organic Acids expressed as
Citric acid Softening, antioxidant
PF005655 Pear Pyrus communis L. Fruit Total polyphenols Antioxidant, tonifiying
PF005785 Peony Paeonia officinalis L. Petal Total polyphenols expressed as Gallic acid Soothing, antioxidant
PF006079 Peppermint Mentha x piperita L. Leaf Phenolic compounds expressed as Rutin Soothing, antioxidant
COSMOS PF005689 PineappleAnanas comosus (L.) Merr.Ananas sativus Schult. & Schult.f.
Fruit Organic acids Exfoliant, moisturizing
PF005910 Pomegranate Punica granatum L. Fruit Organic acids expressed as Citric acid Antioxidant, tonifying
PF000664 PorphyraPorphyra umbilicalis (L.) Kütz Thallus Mycosporine-like amino acids Moiturising, skin stimulating
PF005387 Pot marigold Calendula officinalis L. Flower Flavonoids expressed as narcissine Softening, regenerating
COSMOS PF005661 Raspberry Rubus idaeus L. Fruit Total polyphenols Antioxidant, exfoliating
PF006141 Red clover Trifolium pratense L. Flower Flavonoids express in biochanin A Firming, antioxidant
PF005903 Rosemary Rosmarinus officinalis L. Leaf Phenolic compounds expressed as Rosmarinic acid Purifying, antioxidant
PF005901 Sage Salvia officinalis L. Leaf Rosmarinic acid Astringent, hair stimulating, purifying
PF005440 Soapwort Saponaria officinalis L. Underground part Saponosides Cleansing, moisturizing
PF005922 Sour cherry Prunus cerasus L. Fruit Total polyphenols Antioxidant, soothing
COSMOS PF005894 Spirulina
Spirulina maxima (Setchell & Gardner) Geitler Syn. Arthrospira maxima Setchell & Gardner
Whole plant Phenolic compounds expressed as Gallic acid Moisturizing, anti-ageing
PF005455 Stinging nettle Urtica dioica L. Leaf Phenolic compounds expressed as cafeic acid Seboregulating, remineralising
PF005909 Sweet orange Citrus sinensis (L.) Osbeck Syn.Citrus aurantium L. var. sinensis L.
Fruit Phenolic compounds expressed as Naringine Moisturizing, antioxidant
COSMOS PF005402 Tea (green)Camellia sinensis (L.) Kuntze Leaf Caffein Antioxidant, slimming
PF005741 TepescohuiteMimosa tenuiflora (Willd.) Poir. Bark Tannins Regenerating,
microcirculation activating
PF005939 Thyme Thymus vulgaris L. Flowering top Rosmarinic acid Antioxidant, purifying, hair
stimulating
PF005688 Tomato (organic)Lycopersicon esculentum Mill. Fruit Organic acids expressed as tartaric
acid Moisturizing, antioxidant
COSMOS PF005432 Vine (red) Vitis vinifera L. Leaf Flavonoids expressed as rutin Microcirculation activating, anti-ageing
COSMOS PF005911 Violet Viola odorata L. Flower Flavonoids expressed as Rutin Softening, soothing, purifying
PF005940 Wild pansy Viola tricolor L. Flowering aerial part Flavonoids expressed as Violanthin Purifying, antioxidant, anti-
ageing
PF005640 Winter cherry Physalis alkekengi L. Fruit Organic acids expressed as citric acid Tonifiying, exfoliating
PF005399 Witch hazel Hamamelis virginiana L. Leaf Tannins expressed as hamamelitannin
Microcirculation activating, astringent
Water Soluble Plant Extracts
21
Cosme-Phytamis® organic NEW
The new generation of organic-certifiable active ingredients
Cosme-Phytamis® organic are extracts from organic plants for use in manufacturing cosmetic products. The concentration of active molecules is ensured by standardizing these natural cosmetic active ingredients and stabilizing them in plant-based glycerin (choice of organic or conventional glycerin is available).
Consistent Optimal Quality• Active molecule concentration 5 to 10 times higher than other extracts on
the market thanks to an exclusive, environmentally-friendly manufacturing process
• Active molecule titration analysis (HPLC): guaranteed activity• Standardization: consistent, reproducible concentration
Safety and Regulatory Compliance • Complete traceability from plant to extract to formulated product• Cosmos/Ecocert complian
Water Soluble Plant Extracts
Organic Plants Part of the plant Origine
Apple fruit France
Apricot fruit France
Birch leaf Multisource
Blackcurrant fruit France
Blackcurrant leaf Multisource
Burdock root France
Carot root France
Chamomile (German) flower/flowering top France
Chamomile (Roman) flower France
Coffee (Green) seed Multisource
Coneflower aerial part France
Cornflower flower France
Cramberry fruit Multisource
Cucumber fruit Multisource
Elderberry fruit Multisource
Guarana seed Multisource
Hamamelis leaf France
Helichrysum flowering top France
Hibiscus flower Multisource
22
Organic Plants Part of the plant Origine
Apple fruit France
Apricot fruit France
Birch leaf Multisource
Blackcurrant fruit France
Blackcurrant leaf Multisource
Burdock root France
Carot root France
Chamomile (German) flower/flowering top France
Chamomile (Roman) flower France
Coffee (Green) seed Multisource
Coneflower aerial part France
Cornflower flower France
Cramberry fruit Multisource
Cucumber fruit Multisource
Elderberry fruit Multisource
Guarana seed Multisource
Hamamelis leaf France
Helichrysum flowering top France
Hibiscus flower Multisource
Plantes BIO Partie de plante Origine
Horse chestnut seed France
Kiwi fruit Multisource
Lavender flower France
Marigold flower France
Mint (pepper) leaf France
Mint (sweet) leaf France
Passion fruit fruit Multisource
Pear fruit France
Pineapple fruit Multisource
Prune fruit Multisource
Raspberry fruit Multisource
Red/white vine fruit France
Rosemary leaf Multisource
Sage leaf Multisource
Sour cherry fruit Multisource
Stinging nettle aerial part France
Strawberry fruit Multisource
Tea (Black) leaf Multisource
Vine peach fruit France
Water Soluble Plant Extracts
23
Cosme-PhytaMIX Cocktails of actives to enhance formulasDescription• 100% natural Cosme-phytamis® blends formulated with selected plants for
their synergistic or complementary properties.• Restitutes plants benefits and offers, in one ingredient, a targeted and opti-
mizised cosmetic activity (tonifying, slimming, hair stimulating...).• 5 to 10 higher concentration in active molecules than market extracts
thanks to an ecoresponsible and exclusive manufacturing process.• Titration in active molecules.• Standardization: Constant and reproducible concentration.
Benefits • Useful value: only one file and one control.• Cocktail of actives to boost and enhance formulas.• One product perfectly dosed:
� One order � One control � One file
Recommended usage dose • 1-5%
Standards • ECOCERT and COSMOS compliant.
Water Soluble Plant Extracts
Réf : p 23
24
Code NAME OF THE BLEND Plant Latin name Plant part Tracers Plant activities
PF005876 HAIR TONICChamisso arnica
Arnica chamissonis Less. Flower
Phenolic compounds expressed as Caffeic acid
Purifying
Watercress Nasturtium officinale R. Br Aerial part Hair stimulating
Stinging nettle Urtica dioica L. Aerial part Hair stimulating
RosemaryRosmarinus officinalis L. Leaf Purifying
Sage Salvia officinalis L. Leaf Hair stimulating
PF005882 SLIMMING Traveller’s joy Clematis vitalba L. Aerial part
Phenolic compounds expressed as Rutin
Detoxifying
Ivy Hedera helix L. Leaf Slimness
MeadowsweetFilipendula ulmaria (L.) Maxim. Flowering top Detoxifying
PF005885SLIMMING ANTICELLULIT Bladderwrack Fucus vesiculosus L. Thallus
Phenolic compounds expressed as Rutin
Slimness
Ivy Hedera helix L. Leaf Slimness
MeadowsweetFilipendula ulmaria (L.) Maxim.
Sommité fleurie Detoxifying
COSMOS PF005877 TONIFYING CypressCupressus sempervirens L. Female cone
Tannins
Microcirculation activating
Witch hazelHamamelis virginiana L. Leaf Toning
Saint John’s wort
Hypericum perforatum L. Flowering top Soothing
Horsetail Equisetum arvense L. Sterile aerial part Firming
Thyme Thymus vulgaris L. Flowering top Purifying
PF005879MICRO- CIRCULACTIV Cypress
Cupressus sempervirens L. Female cone
Tannins
Microcirculation activating
Witch hazelHamamelis virginiana L. Leaf Microcirculation
activating
Butcher’s broom
Ruscus aculeatus L. Underground part
Microcirculation activating
Red VineVitis vinifera L. var tinctoria Raf. Leaf Microcirculation
activating
The Cosme-PhytaMIX Range
Water Soluble Plant Extracts
25
Lipidamis®
Oil-soluble plant extractsDescription• 100% natural plants extract obtained by macerating plants in refined sun-
flower seed oil which is the ideal solvent to extract the active oil-soluble molecules from the plants.
Eco-conception extracts• 100% natural• Preservative-free• Plant solvent • Protected by a plant-origin antioxidant (tocopherol)• Manufactured according to optimised, eco-clean processes• No petroleum derivatives• REACH compliant
Formulation • Do not heat above 40°C• Can be used in all cosmetic products as natural agents and compounds in
the oily phase
Recommended usage dose• 2-5%
Oil Soluble Plant Extracts
Réf : p 25
26
Code Raw Materials Latin name Plant part INCI Plant activities
PF002149 Aloe Vera Aloe vera (L.) Burm. f. Gel Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Moisturising, regenerating,
PF002152 Arnica (mountain) Arnica montana L. Flower Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Anti-blotches, softening
PF002155 Avocado tree Persea americana Mill. FruitHelianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Fruit Extract
Nourishing, anti-ageing
PF002158 Banana Musa acuminata Colla Fruit Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, MusaSapientium Fruit Extract
Antioxydant,nourishing
PF002245 Bilberry Vaccinium myrtillus L. Fruit Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, VacciniumMyrtillus Fruit Extract
Antioxydant,tonifying
PF002172 Caviar Acipenser baerii - Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, CaviarExtract Anti-ageing
PF002167Chamomile (German)
Chamomilla recutita (L.)Rauschert Flower
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) SeedOil, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria)Flower Extract
Softening, hair highlighting
PF002183 Corn Poppy Papaver rhoeas L.t Flower Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, PapaverRhoeas Petal Extract
Regenerating,softening
PF002161 Cornflower Centaurea cyanus L. Flower Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil,Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract
Regenerating,softening
PF002200 Frangipany Plumeria rubra L. Flower Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, PlumeriaRubra Flower Extract
Moisturising,softening
PF002209 Ginseng Panax ginseng C. A. Mey. Root Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) SeedOil, Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Tonifying, regenerating
PF002287 Green TeaCamellia sinensis (L.)Kuntze Leaf Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed
Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf ExtractAntioxidant, slimming
PF002238 Horse Chestnut Aesculus hippocastanum L. SeedHelianthus Annuus (Sunflower) SeedOil (and) Aesculus Hippocastanum(Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract
Microcirculation activating,astringent
PF002227 Ivy Hedera helix L. Leaf Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, HederaHelix Leaf Extract
Antioxydant,cleansing
PF002156 Oat Avena sativa L. Bran Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, AvenaSativa Kernel Extract
Nourishing,regenerating
PF002257 Papaya Carica papaya L. FruitHelianthus Annuus (Sunflower) SeedOil, Carica Papaya (Papaya) FruitExtract
Regenerating, exfoliating
PF002281 Pot Marigold Calendula officinalis L. Flower Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) SeedOil, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Softening,regenerating
PF002256 Soapbark tree Quillaja saponaria Molina Stem Bark Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) SeedOil, Quillaja Saponaria Bark Extract
Astringent,cleansing
PF002289 Tiare Gardenia Taitensis DC. Flower Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Gardenia Taitensis Flower
Soothing, purifying
PF002232 White Lily Lilium candidum L. Flower Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, LiliumCandidum Flower Extract
Antioxydant,softening
PF002278 White Willow Salix alba L. Bark Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) SeedOil, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract
Softening, astringent
The Lipidamis® Range
Oil Soluble Plant Extracts
27
Multifunctional Formulation Ingredients
28
COSMOSLegend:
Natural alternative to synthetics � Alban Muller Research develops natural solutions to substitute synthetic ingredients and offers natural
multifunctional formulation ingredients in your formulas with skin benefits.
� The range of multifunctional formulation ingredients is composed of: � Texture agents � Preservative � Scrubs
Multifunctional Formulation Ingredients
Lipolami® ERNatural formulation and optimized sensoriality
ButtersSmoothness and comfort
Amigel® Gelling and stabilizing agents
OilsTraditional beauty care
Amigum Gelling and stabilizing agents
ClaysBenefits and beauty from the Earth
Amipreserve Authorised natural preservative
Scrubamis®
Plant-origin exfoliating powders
Scrubamis® ER Plant-Origin Exfoliating Powders
Silicami®
The Best Exfoliating Silica Ever
29
Aternative to silicones
Lipolami® ER COSMOS
Natural formulation and optimized sensoriality Description• 100% natural fluid and dry soft touch esters obtained from milk thistle oil.
Skin Benefits • Natural alternative to silicones.• Formulation ingredient with a cosmetic activity: skin barrier protection.• For natural pleasant and sensory skin-feel textures.
Tested Efficacy Cosmetic activity
• Ex vivo test: skin barrier protection thanks to the richness in linoleic acid that reinforces cell cohesion.
Luxurious textures
• Sensory comparative test of textures with Lipolami® ER vs. silicones.• High spreading ability: low viscosity and low surface tension.
Formulation assets
• Stability and fineness of emulsions.• Comparative study of sunscreens solubility.• Dispersing properties of pigments and minerals.• Solubilizing properties of perfumes.
INCI• Silybum Marianum Ethyl Ester
PF005329
Multifunctional Formulation Ingredients Texture Agents
30
Amigel® Gelling and stabilizing agentsDescription• 100% natural gelling and stabilizing polysaccharide agent.
Skin Benefits• Incomparable stabilizer for emulsions and suspensions.• Alternative to synthetic petroleum-based gelling agents.• Outstanding suspending power: natural alternative to carbormers.• Ensures a unique smooth and unctuous cosmetic feel.• Moisturizing properties
Tested Efficacy • Stability of a gel in extreme physical and chemical conditions.• Stability of emulsions formulated without emulsifiers.• Outstanding suspending ability.
INCI• Sclerotium Gum
PF005262
Amigum COSMOS
Gelling and stabilizing agentsDescription• Amigum is the non-ionised version of Amigel®.
PF000015
Multifunctional Formulation Ingredients Texture Agents
31
Almond Oil• Emollient, softening.
� Sensitive skin, fragile hair and baby care.
Camellia Oil• Nourishing, protecting, sheathing.
� Dry, fine and fragile hair.
Coconut Milk Oil• Softening, moisturising.
� Sensitive and fragile skin.
Macadamia Oil• Nourishing, emollient.
� Mature and devitalised skin.
Monoï de Tahiti® AO Oil• Moisturising, protecting.
� Damaged, dehydrated skin and hair.
Tamanu Oil• Regenerating, protecting.
� Damaged, very dry skin and hair.
OilsTraditional beauty care
Vegetable oils are a rich and varied source of ingredients for cosmetics (fatty acids, vitamins, unsaponifiable matter, etc.). They are appreciated as active ingredients for beauty care and as a base for massage oils.
PF000027
PF000033
PF003778
PF000041
PF000045
PF003567
Multifunctional Formulation Ingredients Texture Agents
32
Shea Butter COSMOS
• Regenerating, anti-ageing, softening thanks to its content in unsaponifiable matters.
• Antioxidant thanks to its high level in vitamin E.
Cirami• Exclusive, original blend of shea butter, carnauba wax and beeswax.• Remarkable thickening and emollient properties.
Monoï de Tahiti® AO• Obtained by maceration of tiare flowers in copra oil.• Smoothing, moisturising and protecting.
Butters Smoothness and comfort
Butters are natural thickening agents perfectly suitable for the formu-lation of cosmetic emulsions and skincare products like balms or masks for skin and hair.
ClaysBenefits and beauty from the Earth
Rich in mineral salts, clays are used in cosmetics for their remineralizing and purifying properties or to color your formulas naturally.
Green• Rich in minerals (especially calcium, iron, magnesium and potassium).• Highly absorbent, especially suitable to oily skin.
Red• Firming thanks to its high content in silicon.• Ideal for mature skin.
White• Finer, containing fewer minerals and less absorbent.• Acts as mineral filler in natural make-up pro.• Dry and sensitive skin.
PF000007
PF003537
PF000009
PF000132
PF000131
PF004635 PF000128
Multifunctional Formulation Ingredients Texture Agents
33
Amipreserve COSMOS
Authorised natural preservative Description• 100% pure natural salicylic acid molecule extracted from wintergreen.
Skin Benefits• The only natural preservative approved by regulations.• A safe and efficient natural alternative to synthetic preservatives.• Proven efficacy on bacterias, yeasts and moulds.
Tested Efficacy• Micro-challenge test: Amipreserve vs parabens+phenoxyethanol.• Aqueous product.• Emulsion.
INCI• Salicylic Acid
Alternative to parabens
PF005108
Multifunctional Formulation Ingredients Preservative
34
Alternative to
polyethylene microbeadsScrubamis® Plant-origin exfoliating powdersDescription • 100% natural exfoliating particles from fruit pits and shells.• Natural colors from orange-beige to dark brown.
� 5 references and several particle sizes for targeted applications:
Skin Benefits
Eco-responsible alternative to polyethylene microbeads • 100% natural, plant origin.• 100% renewable.• 100% safe for the environment, high biodegradability.• Co-product of the food industry.
High quality• Gentle mechanical exfoliation thanks to the smooth surface and the round
structure of the particles resulting from a specific grinding technique.• Efficient exfoliation:
� Result: smoother skin, more even complexion, immediate glow• Homogeneous distribution of the particles in the formula.• High dispersibility.• Visual aspect of the natural colors of the particles.
� For optimized suspension, use Amigel®, our natural gelling agent with high suspension power.
Particle size ( µm )
50/200 200/300 300/400 400/500 500/800
Scrubami® Apricot (kernel) PF000101 PF00097 PF00098 PF00099 PF000100
Scrubami® Almond (shell) PF000111 PF000106 PF000109 - PF000110
Scrubami® Coconut (shell) - PF000113 - - -
Scrubami® Walnut (shell) - - PF000120 PF000121 PF000122
Scrubami® Olive (pit) - PF000123 - PF000124 -
Multifunctional Formulation Ingredients Exfoliants
35
Multifunctional Formulation Ingredients Exfoliants
Scrubamis®ER NEW
Plant-Origin Exfoliating Powders Description• 100% natural exfoliating powders from fruit pits and shells.• Natural colors range from orange-beige to dark brown.
Skin Benefits
eco-responsible alternative to polyethylene microbeads • 100% natural, plant origin, 100% renewable. • Harmless to the environment, excellent biodegradability.• Co-product of the food industry. • A method of microbiological decontamination by heat treatment not
modifying smell and color of particles.• Microbiological standards compliant for use in cosmetic products.
High quality• Gentle mechanical exfoliation thanks to the smooth surface and round
structure of the particles resulting from a specific grinding technique.• Efficient exfoliation → Result: smoother skin, homogeneous complexion,
immediate radiance boost, encourages cellular renewal.• Homogeneous distribution of particles in the formula and highly dispersible.• Visual aspect of the natural colors of the particles.
PF006158
PF006160 Particle size (µm)
300/400 400/500
Scrubami® Apricot (shell) PF006158 -
Scrubami® Olive (pit) - PF006160
→ For optimized suspension, use Amigel®: our natural gelling agent with high suspension power
36
Alternative to
polyethylene microbeads
Particle size ( µm )
15/40 60/200 200/500
Silicami® Sensitive skin PF000093 - -
Silicami® Face - PF000095 -
Silicami® Body - - PF000094
Multifunctional Formulation Ingredients Exfoliants
Silicami® The Best Exfoliating Silica Ever Description • 100% natural exfoliating powder of pure white silica.
� 3 particle sizes for targeted applications:
Skin Benefits
Eco-responsible alternative to polyethylene microbeads• 100% natural mineral origin.• 100% safe for the environment.
High quality • Efficient exfoliation:
� Result: smoother skin, more even complexion, immediate glow and improvement of cell renewal.
• Chemically inert: no interaction with the product, nor the environment.• Homogeneous particle size and shape.• Homogeneous distribution of the particles in the product and during appli-
cation on the skin.• Stability of color.• No odor.• Guaranteed without nanoparticules.• High dispersibility.
� For optimized suspension, use Amigel®, our natural gelling agent with high suspension power.
37
Administrative and Sales8 rue Charles Pathé94300 VincennesFrance Tel. +33 (0) 1 48 08 81 00Fax +33 (0) 1 48 08 81 01
Sales USA2525 SW 27th Avenue, Suite 300Miami, FL33133USA Tel. +1 305 860 4088Fax +1 305 860 4087
Head offi ceZA 9 rue Jean Monnet28630 Fontenay-sur-Eure, France SAS with a capital of 960 830 euros RCS Chartres - Siret: 415 066 117 00029VAT intracommunity: FR 51 415 066 117
R&D and Production ZA 9 rue Jean Monnet28630 Fontenay-sur-EureFrance [email protected]
© M03A18X
Information contained in this document is provided for information purposes only and is based on our current knowledge. Before any use of the information provided, the user shall initiate any test in order to verify and to substantiate the claims of the product placed on the market, and to check the availability of the information with regard to patent law and to intellectual property right in France and worldwide. Alban Muller assumes no responsibility or liability of any nature or any kind whatsoever arising from the use or exploitation of the information herein. No warranty, whether legal or contractual, is intended or implied.
