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This lecture was given by Manon Eames as part of the Century of Hope Project, Volvo Ocean Race Event: Women and the Sea, and was given in the Millenium Centre, Cardiff Bay, 30th May 2018.
Women and the Sea - North West Wales
Many thanks for the invitation to present this lecture as part of
this exciting festival for Cardiff. I was asked initially to present
it in Welsh last year at the National Eisteddfod in Anglesey, to
remember and pay tribute to my father’s work in field, and also
that of his late friend, Robin Evans. Both were pioneers in
uncovering and sharing and explaining so much information and
knowledge about Wales’ vibrant maritime history : and my
focus today will be on their work, and in particular their
research in North West Wales - specifically Caernarvonshire
and Anglesey.
When my father published his first book, “Ships and Seamen of
Anglesey” in 1973, I think he had actually set sail on a bit of a
voyage himself, a voyage which led him to eventually be
recognised by Basil Greenhill, director of the National Maritime
Museum in Greenwich as “one of Wales's leading contemporary
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historians…. More than anyone else, responsible for bringing
the study of the Welsh maritime heritage into the mainstream of
academic and popular historical research and writing.”
Certainly, my father’s work in those days was pioneering, and I
know that his own boundless and very genuine enthusiasm, his
“passion” for the sea and for our very particular Welsh
relationship with the ocean over the centuries, inspired many
others to study and research and write about this aspect of our
heritage, with Robin Evans being notable among the many. I’ll
always remember a school friend coming home with me one day
and surveying the piles of documents and pictures and paintings
of barques and schooners everywhere remarking “God your
Dad’s potty about ships isn’t he?” And I suppose he was - and
potty about the sea too : and this not without knowledge and
experience himself, having, in the Royal Navy, commanded a
landing craft at the age of 21 during the D Day landing, and
being twice mentioned in dispatches. And so, this invitation from the Women’s Archive of Wales last
year found me poring through my father’s work and Robin’s :
trying to be selective, chosing interesting facts, elements,
summarising stories connected with women’s relationship with
the sea in these corners of North West Wales. Evidently, the
maritime history of Wales is an area worthy of further study,
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particularly the role of women in it; and I’m very grateful to the
Archive for inviting me to research this lecture in the first place,
because I became engrossed in it all very quickly, and really
enjoyed my own voyage through Robin and my father’s
research, articles and publications.
Clearly, the part women have played in our maritime history has
been, in Robin’s words, critical as well as varied. They
definitely contributed to, and were involved in, maritime
business and businesses for centuries - and this is as true of
Wales as it is of many other countries. Robin’s own book
“Merched y Mor” - is proof of this, crammed as it is with tales
of women as lifesavers, adventurers, Captain’s wives, and
daughters of Seamen, sailing the shores and travelling the world.
Women also invested in ships and shipping regularly, and what
about the female missionaries and other emigrants (both
voluntary and forced) who piled aboard, in their hundreds ?
Then there are the fisherwomen too, and even the prostitutes of
our ports - all connected in one way or another with The Sea,
and her hold and influence on the way of life on the coasts of
our country.
Of course, we are by now, thanks to my father and Robin, quite
familiar with the idea of women travelling aboard ships and
boats throughout the centuries, especially the nineteenth
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century, which witnessed the most migrating and trading. And
incidentally, they did so flying in the face of multiple and
entrenched supersititions - common all over the globe - that
even the presence of women on board (as well as pigs, hens,
cats, foxes, howling dogs, clergymen and shooting stars by the
way) was guaranteed to bring about bad luck, accident,
horrendous weather, and disaster to the accompanying sailors.
(It’s worth noting on the other hand, as Robin Evans does, that
from the eighteenth century onwards, women also became much
more popular as figureheads on ships - and this was apparently
because of a belief that women’s eyes had superior navigating
abilities : of which more later !).
And so yes, women were often “at sea” and it’s no surprise
really that there’s significant documentation cofirming that fact.
As my father notes in his book “Gwraig y Capten” “The
Captain’s Wife” (which is the diary kept by one woman in
particular, Elen Owen, from Tudweiliog, on the voyage home
from San Francisco around the Horn aboard the Cambrian
Monarch in 1882) the census of 1861, for example, proves that
many women actually travelled regularly aboard the smaller
coastal vessels, recording for example, an ‘Elen Jones, 22 years
old, “domestic at present out of situation” aboard the little sloop
Sampson moored near Beaumaris on the night of the census.
And aboard the schooner Sarah, anchored nearby, was a
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Margaret Thomas, 34 years old from Moelfre, wife of the
Captain, John Thomas.
However, it is worth noting that although it was evidently
common enough for several women (and their children, if it
comes to that) to set sail as wife, sons or daughters of the
Captain as he steered his vessel whether along our shores or to
far flung corners of the world, this was not the case with
employees of the well-known Davies family in Menai Bridge.
Davieses Captains were forbidden from taking their wives and
families with them, and the fact that the company lost some of
their most able Captains as a result of this rule indicates how
importantly they were valued by their husbands - for example,
Captain Willliam Williams, Rhiw, and Captain Thomas
Williams, Caernarfon. In fact, when William Williams left the
employment of Richard Davies “Y Borth” because he had been
refused permission for his wife to travel with him on his next
passage, he received a curt enough reponse to his resignation
from Richard Davies : “As you are aware that on that point our
decision has been taken long since, we can only express our
regret ….and we are glad that you sent to us at once your
decision, as we should have been highly annoyed if it had been
left to the last moment”. As my father - typically - notes about
the Davies family: ‘This is the middle class rapidly becoming
noblemen … quick enough to give large sums of money to
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religious causes - chapels, the Mission Overseas etc, but treating
their seamen, even their most accomplished master-mariners,
like lowly servants, without any humanity”. He goes on to
delight genuinely in Captain William Williams’ success
following his departure form the Davieses company - Williams
became one of the first men in Britain to gain an ‘Extra Master’s
Certificate,” and both he, and Captain Thomas Williams,
Caernarfon, who had also resigned from the Davies company for
the same reason, became owners of very successful large ships
themselves. Both Captains were evidently a great loss to the
Davieses because of their “no wives or family” rule, but they
themselves now had both the means and the freedom to take
their families with them wherever they wanted.
But before turning to look at the history of some of the women
who did travel with their menfolk, it’s worth noting that it was
only Captain’s wives who did this usually. The wives of
ordinary seamen - even the mate - had to stay at home, to keep
house and look after the children, during their partners’ often
very long absences at sea.
So it’s worth spending a moment considering what life was like
for these women, left at home, during the age of the great
voyages ?
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The Sailors’ Wives
In terms of their homes, things were pretty similar to homes in
other industrialised areas : there were some newer houses,
especially in the newer larger ports, but they were usually of a
very poor standard, just like the houses springing up like a rash
in the industrial areas of South Wales. And families living in
more rural areas fared little better : often conditions were worse,
with large families living in cottages or two-roomed houses,
with earth floors and very few facilities. Moelfre in Anglesey
for example depended on only three water fountains until the
end of the 19th century, when a water pump was added to the
fountain on the shore, but in bad weather this would regularly
get contaminated with sea-water and would therefore be useless
for several days. Many families kept chickens, or a pig, but
general poverty was common. My father refers to another diary
in his book “Shipmaster” - the biography of Capten Robert
Thomas, Llandwrog - who recalls the hardships of his childhood
in the mid ninteenth century thus -
“I had gone with my mother many a time to Carnarvon with a
pig with a string fast to its legs and if a suitable price was not
got, we would bring it home again : I look back with wonder
and pain at those days… a woman and children from
Llandwrog, driving a little pig to Caernarfon, and then standing
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all day with it in the wet and cold and perhaps after all no-one
asking what it was for’.
Of course, in spite of this sort of poverty (which was widespread
in North Wales at the time) women who were trying to bring up
their family in farming areas like Moelfre did have something of
an advantage - it was easy to get hold of milk, and according to
Robin Evans, a farmer would often give seamen’s children
permission to fetch a turnip or so from the fields every so often.
And over and above this, the sea herself of course had her own
generosity to bestow on her coastal communities - there’d be
crabbing in the evenings on the turning tide, gathering mussels,
and in Moelfre in particular many households would get through
the winter with the help of a large barrel of salted herring on
stand by.
But in such harsh conditions, how on earth did sailors’ wives
cope, with their husbands absent for months - years even ?
Just imagine - your father, husband, son or brother away for
long periods of time, years on the “foreign” ships as they were
called, but even the coastal vessels could be away for twelve
months or more. Some women would have a son, or sons,
husband and father all away at the same time - and scattered all
over the globe.
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This set me thinking about these women’s lives in comparison
to the experiences and daily lives of miners’ wives from the
industrial coalfields in the South, and slate quarrymen’s wives in
the North : obviously, another group of women whose husbands
worked in a very dangerous profession. But I was thinking about
the difference there must have been between the constant
anxiety of a colliers’ wife, worrying about her menfolk shift
after shift, but nonetheless being able to see them (one hopes)
every night. It’s true that in some slate districts men would stay
overnight in barracks for a whole week, returning only at the
weekend or on a Sunday, and there are some coastal seamen
whose usual journeys took them between Ireland, North Wales
and North West England and who therefore sailed close to their
homes, in which case they might drop anchor overnight in the
bay closest to the Captain’s home, or Porth Penrhyn in Bangor
for example, on a Friday night, before walking home for the
weekend to Port Dinorwic, or the villages of Anglesy, returning
o ship on a Monday morning. But the vast majority of sailors’
wives, unlike colliers’ or quarrymen’s wives, were more like
war wives : enduring months and years of worry and fear -
usually without any news - no telephones, no post, no means of
regular correspondence with their partners, siblings or sons.
These women would usually have no idea of their menfolk’s
whereabouts from one day to the next, nor any clue as to how
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well or badly their voyage was going. And although they didn’t
have the burden of keeping their homes and husbands clean,
carrying gallons of water by day and night for bathing and
eradicating coal and slate dust from their clothing nd homes,
they also didn’t have anybody at home who could help with
household chores - collecting firewood, coal - and sharing in the
upkeep of the house and the care of the children.
Both Robin and my father draw several very interesting
conclusions from their researches about this sort of existence.
For one thing, the absence of their husbands, and the fact that
these coastal communties tended to be close-knit, meant that to
a large extent they were all on the same level - be they married
to a Captain or an ordinary seaman. And by the way, in Robin’s
book “Merched y Môr” there is significant evidence that life
wasn’t always rosy for these partnerships even when the sailors
did come home. Many men found it difficult to readjust and
settle at home, many felt useless, surplus to the requirements of
a wife who had been an efficient mother and father to the family
in their absence. It was often, also, the woman of the house who
was responsible for discipline - even when the father was home.
The International Centre for Maritime Research states that “the
wife of a mariner is more of a mistress in her own kitchen than
any other wife can be”.
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And although Robin argues - convincingly - that the idea that
these communities were exceptionally “amtriarchal” is a myth,
it’s evident that these women had not only a close relationship
with each other, but a productive one too. Both mothers and
wives would regularly arrange work for their husbands and sons
directly with the Captains’ wives - you could almost think of
them as a sort of labour exchange - imagine them, gathering
after chapel on the steps, discussing between them places for
sons, husbands, brothers aboard this or that vessel. And this was
an arrangement which worked well for both sides : from the
Captains’ (and their wives) point of view (especially those who
owned their own vessels) the existence locally of a willing and
proficient workforce was great boon.
And this arrangement had another effect : as it was relatively
easy to get work aboard ship, between family connections and
the fact that captains and ordinary mariners, as well as their
women, mixed with each other socially quite naturally, sailors
were quite confident of finding regular work. And as a
consequence of this, in turn, it was therefore considered
reasonably practical for them to leave a ship for a few months
and go home if needed, going back to sea at a later date. In
some areas men would often leave their ships to come home for
the fishing season for example - to help to fill those large barrels
with herring for the cold winter months, no doubt.
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I referred earlier to the “worry” these women must have had to
put up with on a daily basis : so it is worth asking - did sea
wives have more reason for concern than women whose men
worked in other dangerous industries ? Hearing of - and
sometimes witnessing - shipwrecks and significant loss of life,
as the women on the coast of Anglesey and Caernarvonshire
would have done regularly, must have made their blood run
cold, especially with their own men far away at sea themselves.
There’s the Royal Charter of course, lost in 1859 - along with
ten other schooners, on the same night : and Robin cites some
very interesting statistics in his book, which show without a
shadow of doubt just how dangerous a career at sea really was.
On average, between 1891 and 1904, many more men (6 to 8
times more in fact) were lost at sea than in other industries : for
example in 1900, 1,537 men were lost at sea while 1,101 died in
the coalmining industry : which equates to 1 in every 146 men at
sea to 1 in every 771 in the mines - a significant number more
(and these figures don’t even include passengers or fishermen).
Of course, the next reasonable question is : why go to sea at all ?
Why leave your mother, sister, wife, your home and family - for
a dangerous life “on the ocean wave”?
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Obviously, family and community tradition played a large part,
and the “romance” of the sea must had appealed too, but there
are other practical reasons. First, and obvious, was the shortage
of other employment in the rural areas. Wages at sea were also
marginally better than those on the land, in farmeing. But most
important, a career at sea was unique among the other industries,
in that it was possible, with hard work, to gain promotion, and
quickly, which would then lead to the possibility of earning very
good money. An ambitious, determined and hardworking
seaman could gain promotion at a rate and speed impossible on
the land, moving from a seaman to Mate, and even Captain,
relatively quickly. This kind of rapid and significant
improvement in a man’s standard of living was simply not an
option for the average miner, quarryman, or farm hand.
* * * * * * * * * * * *
So, there we have it - a snapshot of the lives of sailor’s wives
who stayed home, and of the communities in which they lived.
But what about the other women who had a more direct
connection with sea, through their work ?
Many women worked in the fishing industry, all along the coast
of Wales. Most of us know about the cockle industry in
Penclawdd, North Gower, and the mussel industry in the
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Conway area. But other women worked gathering seaweed - not
only in South West Wales for the making of laeverbread, but
there was also for example a busy industry in Caernarvonshire
where seweed and reeds would be gathered and burnt, with the
resulting ash sent to England to make potash; and in Anglsey
there was also an important marram grass industry, with women
earning a living weaving ropes and mats, and eventually baskets
and table mats and the like, in the Newborough area.
The above are examples of work done solely by women - but
there were also women who worked supporting their husbands
in their business : lighthouse keepers wives for example. And
then there were women like Capten Thomas Hughes of
Moelfre’s wife. Once the Captain had loaded his cargo, he
would send a telegram to his wife in Moelfe, and it was she who
then contacted local merchants and arranged where and when
the cargo would arrive. She was therefore crucial to the trade
and working of their business.
And, speaking of “business”, although they weren’t generally
apparently very “significant” investors, many women
contributed regularly to the business of shipping by buying
shares in vessels throughout the period.
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But there is one other area where one wouldn’t automatically
expect women to have excelled - and that is maritime education .
In Wales, Sarah Jane Rees, otherwise known as Cranogwen,
from Llangrannog, is pretty well known. Born in 1839, daughter
of Captain John Rees, Sarah Jane had sailed frequently with her
father, and went on to learn, and the teach, the art of navigation.
But apparently, the lesser known Ann Edwards, daughter of
Captain William Francis Amlwch, was as good a teacher as
Cranogwen - if not better. Her father had taught navigation in
Amlwch, and after she moved to Caernarfon, Ann aso taught
navigation and seamanship, from 1830 until her death in 1889 at
the age of 70. It was Ann who taught the vast majority of
Caernarfon sailors - and she had pupils form Anglesey too. She
must have been an amazing teacher - in 1878, 32 second officers
passed theor Captain’s exams : all 32 were from Caernarfon or
South Anglesey, and every single one had been taught by “Mrs
Edwards, New Street”. It was also Ann, by the way, who taught
Captain Robert Thomas, who sailed the Meirioneth on the
fastest ever voyage from Cardiff to San Francisco in 1887/8.
Ann’s enormous contribution was eventually recognised when
she was awarded a state pension by Queen Victoria. (So, maybe
women did have better eyes for navigation ?) It was a woman too who led the campaign to save more lives at
sea. When, in 1823 Frances Williams, out walking with her
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husband James, witnessed the sinking, in spite of fair weather,
of the packet boat the Alert between the Skerries and Anglesey
with the loss of 140 lives, she set about establishing lifeboats on
the island. And not before time - according to Dad, in 1825
atleast 14 ships were lost on Anglesey’s coast, in 1826, another
25 arall, and in 1827, a further 21 - numbers which reflect the
rapidly increasing busyness of Liverpool Bay. Frances and her
husband established the Anglesey Association for the
Preservation of life from Shipwreck in 1828, which led to
lifebpats being purchased for the island. And in fairness,
Frances must have been a bit of a girl. On one occasion a
message was received, in foul weather, that the keeper on the
Sherries lighthoue was ill and needed urgent attention. The
westerly wind was too strong for the Holyhead lifeboat to reach
the lighthouse, but there was just a remote chance that the
Cemlyn lifeboat might manage to tack her way there. Without
ado, Frances grabbed her medical bag and joined her husband
aboard the boat, in spite of the raging weather, and attended to
the stricken keeper. Definitely, a bit of a girl !
As I said, these few examples illustrate that women were not
just connected to Wales’ reltaionshp with the sea, but were
actively involved in that relationship, and contributed to it, on
many levels.
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But what about turning our attention now to the women who
regularly travelled aboard these ships : what was life like for
them - at sea ?
It was apparently more usual for the wives (and children) of
Captains to travel on the coastal as opposed to the “foreign”
ships, and often, this would be their “honeymoon”. Having
married a Captain (and when you consider that at one time there
were 44 master mariners living in Moelfre alone, there was
plenty of choice about !), the ship under his command would
often be the new wife’s first home. There’s Elizabeth, daughter
of the master seaman Owen Lewis, Moelfre. She married
Captain Henry Roberts in 1914 and spent her honeymoon on the
Earl of Lathom carrying slate from Caernarfon to Hamburg, and
on from there to Boulogne, Ipswich, Newcastle and Pentewan,
before returning to Moelfre. Capten David Williams, Capten of
the Isallt’s bride, had an even more adventurous honeymoon.
After their wedding, she insisted on joing her new husband on
his voyage from Falmouth to pick up slates in Porthmadog. But
on her very first night aboard, the Isallt collided with the SS
Atlantic. According to my father, the young girl lept out of bed,
and wearing nothing but a blanket from it, ran to the deck,
where she realised the Isallt was sinking, quickly. She and all
the crew were rescued - but as my father remarks - what a way
for a young girl to “break the ice” on her wedding night !
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From the first days of their married life, the wives of Captains -
and the children they bore (many born aboard ship) - would
travel wit their husbands to wherever they went, but once the
children reached school age, it was more practical to only sail
together on the coastal routes, with the family joining their
father during the summer holidays. This often meant relatively
short journeys, usually schooners often to and from Germany
(Hamburg) and Scandinavia (Copenhagen) and so the children -
both daughters and sons - would learn about life at sea from a
young age. But the most romantic image for us I suppose is that of the brave
women who sailed the world on the full rig ships and barques,
knowing that they had undertaken to spend many years
travelling the oceans - sometimes on the most difficult and most
dangerous seas on the planet. My fathers book ‘Gwraig y
Capten’ “The Captain’s Wife” (the diary of the Ellen Owen I
mentioned earlier), gives a detailed picture of life aboard the
Cambrian Monarch - and of a farmer’s daughter successfully
acclimatising herself to a life on the high seas. And there were
many like her.
And this was far from easy - as my father writes :
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‘From being on dry land surrounded by family and friends, the
wife now has to confine herself like a prisoner in the cabin and
the poop of the ship, without female companionship - no-one
with whom to share secrets, fears, doubts, or even to discuss the
weather ! The world of the seaman and the weather of the
seaman, not those of the farmer, are her world now, and the
oracle in this world is her husband, the captain”’…. He goes on
to list their sufferings - health problems, depression,
seasickness, and accute isolation. It must have been a deeply
lonely experience at times.
Having said that, the cabin where the Captain’s wife would have
spent most of her time would be quite comfortable by
comparison with the cramped quarters on the rest of the vessel :
although there was sound business sense behind this (rather than
any consideration of the Captain’s quality of life aboard). Many
Captains would conduct a lot of business with customers and
agents in foreign ports, and would be more likely to strike a
good bargain by being able to give an impression of importance,
status, and living in style. The “Inventory” of the Langdale for
example, a Liverpool vessel under Captain Griffith Jones of
Pwllheli, includes a piano and gramophone, 4 ‘deck chairs’, 2
bikes, a silver AND china dinner service, books, and a tub for
foot bathing… amongst other things.
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But in spite of this relative “luxury” the Captain’s wife still had
to put up with life in a cabin which could be damp, cold or
unbearably hot - and which was never still. Poor Grace Owen,
from Nefyn, Capten William Davies’ new wife, spent an entire
fornight with horrednous seasickness on her bunk aboard the
Gwydr Castle, too weak to even raise her head. Incidentally -
Dad points out that it was important for the “wife” not to
interfere with the day to day running of the ship - and especially
not with the Steward’s duties, the galley, or the cook. I don’t
think poor Grace would have wanted to do very much of that in
her pitiful condition…
And just think for a minute about the weather the inhabitants of
these ships would have to endure, even in coastal waters.
Catherine Hughes of Moelfre, was sailing with her husband
Henry Hughes on the William Shepherd from Ireland to Bangor,
when they encountered such violent weather that they spent
three whole days battling the elements, with Catherine in the
cabin tied to a chair and her baby Jinnie stowed in a drawer,
until the severely damaged vessel eventually limped in to
harbour on the Isle of Man. But worse was common further
afield - particularly when rounding the Horn. Ellen Jones
Griffiths, of Pwllheli, sailed on the Langdale I mentioned earlier
at least six times around the Horn. On her first voyage, she
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actually saw the Horn at least 5 times in the 6 weeks it took the
battling Langdale to get around it.
There are a lot of startling stories about Ellen, and the Langdale.
This is the woman who set sail on one of these long voyages
with a 6 week old baby in her arms, and then gave birth to a
daughter on board - which she records in her own diary thus :
‘Baby born North Atlantic 37 degrees 42 minutes N 33 degrees
W 5 a.m.’ Apparently her husband Capten Griffith went on to
the poop and announced “Gentlemen, we have another
passenger.” This baby was named “Moraned” which means born
at sea. My father records that later, the crew made Moraned a
doll, called “Sydney” and the sailmaker also made her a little
dress out of sailcloth, which was so stiff poor little Moraned
couldn’t sit down in it !
Other children’s names give us some clues in this respect too :
Robert David Valpariso Roberts, Francisco Griffith, and ‘Mercy
Malvina Thomas’ who was born to Catherine Thomas of
Llangybi after a terrible voyage during which the Criccieth
Castle was lost while rounding the Horn. Catherine managed to
reach the Falklands Islands in an open boat with her husband
Capten Robert Thomas and her son Robert, giving birth to the
baby there a few weeks later. Mercy Malvina indeed !
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But although both Robin and my father refer to women
generally having to respect the crew and their duties, there are
also tales of women taking a much more active and practical
role on board. Eizabeth Jones from Amlwch first went to sea as
a small girl in 1897 aboard the Gauntlet, a 120 ton schooner
with her mother and father, Captain Bob Jones, or ‘Hurricane
Bob’as he was known. Eluzabeth’s mother used to cook on
board, and used to make red cabbage and butter as an alternative
to the usual “hard tack”. Elizabeth then left the Gauntlet to go to
school in Amlwch, but returned as a full crew member in about
1919. Her main duties were cooking, but in bad weaher she
would also keep watch with the mate. Once, with her father the
Capten unwell with the flu, “Lizzie” took charge and steered the
Gauntlet up the Solent to the harour, much to the astonishent of
the Pilot. There are quite a few stories about Lissie in both my
father and Robin’s books - she was obvioulsy “hands on” in
every sense of the word.
There’s one other story that’s worth referring to before I finish :
again to do with the Langdale. A few months after the birth of
Moraned on board, the Langdale was sailing from Hamburg and
had arrived in the Doldrums, a little to the north of the equator,
when they saw the Kircudbrightshire, under the Captaincy of
Capten David Roberts, Dolgellau approaching. Out went the
flags to invite Captain Roberts and his family aboard the
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Langdale, and the following day, the Langdale family went for
tea on the Kircudbrightshire. Ellen Jones’ diary reveals how
delighted she was to meet another woman on the high seas.
“Think about them for a moment,” my father writes “ two
totally Welsh families, having tea, the children maybe a little bit
shy, but then exploring the new ship, and making new friends,
the women busily chatting about their experineces, and the two
captains keeping an eagle eye on the weather as they strolled
along the poop, the two beautiful ships next to each other rolling
gently but uneasily in the stillness of the doldrums, like a pair of
animlas out of their natural habitat, longing to leap ahead of the
winds instead of lolling in the one place, gently wheezing in
protest at their impotence.”
It’s worth remembering of course, that the Captain’s families
did get the opportunity to break the monotony of long voyages
from time to time when they - eventually - docked at various
ports, often at the same time as other families. Just one example
speaks volumes - in June 1905 in the port of Valpariso, there
were fifty ships at anchor, out of which 12 had Captains from
Wales, and 4 of those were from the village of Nefyn …! Be
that as it may, one can imagine how unique that very Welsh
little party was, two little Welsh families, all marooned
temporarily in the Doldrums, almost on the equator, taking tea !
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Another little comment about Elen Jones made me laugh. On
one of her ‘discharge certificates’ she is referred to as
“Stewardess” with the letters “V.G” - meaning, “Very Good”
dded to her name. Apparently her husband Captain Griffith
Jones had remarked that that should have been changed to -
“VT” instead - namely “Very Talkative” !
But in spite of the humour, one can imagine, hearing these
stories, how much these Captains must have longed for days like
this when their children had become too old to travel with them.
Their vessels - and the Captain’s cabin - must have seemed very
lonely. And this was probably also true for most of the crew too,
who seemed to have enjoyed having the presence of a woman
and children aboard, as evidenced by the gifts and toys they
would make for them while they travelled together.
So there we go : I hope you have enjoyed this voyage - albeit a
little superficial - through some of Aled and Robin’s work.
There is so much more in their research and writing about the
relationship between women and the sea in Wales. And the best
thing about it is that they both wrote not just with the knowledge
of the historian, but with genuine and deep compassion and love
for the humanity of these sailors and women - so the history
bursts into life on every page.
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I’d like to end with Robin’s words :
“The Welsh word for a ship - “llong” - is feminine; and even in
English, the tradition of referring to a ship as female goes back
to the middle ages. This is true throughout the Western world.”
Robin quotes the historian Frances Steel : “going to sea was
hazardous, and threw men into an intimate relationship with
their ship”. “Every day” Robin continues, “the ship would
protect them, sustain them, and shelter them : she was their
partner, possessing a very particular strength and grace”
Just as did their wives, be they at home waiting for them, or
travelling alongside them : there they were constantly -
protecting them, sustaining them, and, it must be said,
possessing a very, very particular strength and grace”.
Thank you, Diolch.
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