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NOODLES

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Artful EatsMeet a visual artist who is making a meal out of his work, creating noodle-inspired artwork to wow the art-lovers.

On the Noodle RoadIntroducing Lee Wook-jeong, a filmmaker whose exploration of noodle culture has taken him on a journey through the history of cuisine.

A Modern SpinYoung chefs are whipping up modern Korean fare using traditional ingredients and recipes.

good selections

Party PerfectThe nuptials of star couple Taeyang and Min Hyo-rin have been called “the wedding of the century.” Take a glimpse at the location for their fairytale wedding reception and the fun-filled after-party.

Restaurant NavigatorNoodles have long sated the hunger of people around the world. And wherever you go in Korea, you will find restaurants serving noodles and soups with very distinct regional characteristics veritable treasure troves of cultural learning and delectable dining.

Global GourmetA gala of global noodle dishes from Italy, China and Vietnam showcase exotic tastes and moods.

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Culinary History of a Delightful DishA single bowl of food contains a thousand stories.

Traditional Dining Table with NoodlesDining tables featuring noodles instead of rice are ideal for lunches or dinner parties with guests.

visual essays

Here Comes the Bride Janchi guksu (banquet noodles) are eaten at modern tables to wish a newlywed couple a long and happy marriage.

Taste Origins: BrothBroth plays a key role in determing the flavor of a noodle recipe. Learn how the stock that forms the basis of Korean noodle dishes is made.

Sea, Breeze and NoodlesThe town of Guryongpo in Pohang, North Gyeongsang Province, is home to Jeil Noodle Factory, which makes sea breeze noodles according to a traditional recipe.

Artwork for the TableBeautiful, high-quality, and hand-crafted Korean noodle bowls with chopsticks.

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How It’s MadeLearn how methods of making noodles have diversified over the centuries.

Know Your NoodlesDiscover the many different types of noodles that have won the hearts of Korean diners and cooks over the years.

The Evolution of RamyeonKorea is considered a global ramyeon powerhouse. Here is how the beloved food has evolved over the years.

Brave New NoodleIf you are looking for instant noodle varieties, you will find plenty in Korea. These 13 new ramyeon varieties are bound to delight - and leave you wanting more!

Super Simple, Instant Broth!The secret to cooking noodles lies in the broth. Learn about some of the ready-to-use broths sold in most supermarkets.

Atlas of FlavorCome on a culinary tour and discover some of Korea's most-loved noodles dishes!

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Meet Korea’s Favorite NoodlesHow do Koreans make noodles at home? Learn how to prepare Korea’s four best-loved noodle dishes.

Terrific ToppingsThe best way to get more out of your Korean instant noodles is to add a few toppings. Here are a few timeless favorites.

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Greetings!

This month’s issue of Hanyue is all about noodles.

It’s no secret that noodles are highly popular everywhere. All over the world, a variety

of ingredients and recipes that match regional characteristics have been handed down over

generations, and Korea is no exception. The country has distinctive practices when it comes

to making its unique take on delicious noodles. For example, the colder northern region

enjoys cold noodles in winter, but people in the south eat hot noodles in summer. Noodle

soups with distinct flavors, and seasonal noodles are available only in the right season, as

are spicy bibim (mixed) noodles with gochujang (red pepper sauce). The diversity of noodle

concoctions is almost endless. Because there are seemingly thousands of ways to enjoy

noodles, examining the essence of Korean noodles also constitutes taking a deeper look at

Korea itself.

Noodles in Korea emerged two or three millennia after rice had become Korea’s staple.

Despite their relatively short history, noodles have had a major influence on the Korean

culinary scene. They are like a new star that has taken the country by storm and received a

massive outpouring of support from fans. Mass production and simple recipes have helped

boost the profile of noodles in daily life. The positive symbolism invested in noodles has also

played a major part. Because they represent a long life full of happiness, festivals, parties

and health, noodles are deeply symbolic.

Even now, Korean noodles continue to evolve. Their transformation goes on thanks to

hybrid products that now incorporate western elements, items that reflect domestic colors and

safeguard health, while innovative cooks continue to experiment. All of the above stories are

featured in this issue of Hanyue. Covering a wide spectrum of specialty eateries and cooks

from across the country, this edition will serve as a helpful food guide for the culinary curious.

We hope you enjoy this tour of Korean noodles!

Thank you.

Hanyue showcases the beauty of Korean culture and tradition to all visitors to the country.

SPECIAL LETTER

Phillip Chun, Chairman of the PARADISE Group

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STORIES

In the Korean kitchen, cooked rice and rice cakes are considered silent defenders while guksu (noodles) are nimble attackers. Thus, guksu is a light dish with a strong flavor and distinct appeal. Here, we take a look at the short history of Korean noodles. Noodle dishes are believed to have originated in the Goryeo Dynasty. At first, they were a rare treat inaccessible to laypeople. When noodle-making machines appeared in the middle of the Joseon Dynasty, noodles were made available to the general public, which helped popularize noodles. Then, in the first decade of the 20th century, dried noodles became commercially available, and with the rising use of imported wheat flour, noodles became fashionable. Korean streets in the 1930s and 40s were lined with noodle houses, with marketplace eateries packed with customers like sardines in a tin. The sight of noodles coming out of a noodle-making machine, going into a hot cauldron and getting boiled made quite a spectacle. Onlookers at the marketplace would watch in delight as noodles were rapidly boiled and placed on a table, steaming hot. At homes, the scene was no less spectacular. Noodle dough was rolled flat with hard, wooden rolling pins. It took some seventy years for a food once reserved for the social elite to become common fare for the mass. Delivering a healthy taste, free from spiciness and carrying the wish of happiness, noodles today are an essential food for Koreans. As the Korean love of noodles has deepened, their story has evolved.

Text AHN SUNG HYUNVisual Directing RYU Photo AN JI SUBFood & Set Styling MOON JI YOON

(BUREAU DE CLAUDIA)

Culinary History of a Delightful Dish

Noodles

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Icon of LongevityNoodles are rolled out thin and long and then air dried. They look so long and straight that they seem almost intimidating to eat. Boiling noodles dried in clean air produces a chewy texture. Koreans use chopsticks to unravel tangled noodles and eat them carefully to prevent from breaking. This is because noodles have long symbolized a long and healthy life. Their shape leads people to wish for a long life on anniversaries or the lasting relationship of a couple at their wedding.

Noodles: a Long Story

A single bowl of food contains a thousand stories.

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Bountiful SharingBefore wheat flour was commercially available, noodles were traditionally eaten only on special occasions. These included major celebrations, like anniversaries or weddings, where the symbolic food was served. A large amount of this rare food was prepared and shared. Ladling out the steamy noodle soup from a big cauldron represented communal solidarity. After noodles became a commodity, they evolved into a dish for sharing with others. Adopted as snack food during busy farming seasons, noodles relieved the fatigue of farmers and helped them bond. A bowl filled with clean-flavored white noodles, hot soup and simple side dishes was meant to remove vainglory and ceremonial superfluities and encourage hearty interaction. Watching a potful of boiled noodles being served in dozens of small bowls can fill both the stomach and heart with warmth.

Noble White Since the ancient times, Koreans have considered the color white divine, because they revered the sun and considered themselves descendants of it. Baekrokdam, the crater on top of Mount Halla, is described, per Korean legends, as a Daoist hermit riding a white deer, descended from heaven to drink water. Moreover, Koreans thought of pure white porcelain as a great treasure, and kings wore white clothing. Thus, noodles hold a high status among people who greatly value and admire the color white. Koreans naturally chose to serve white noodles on occasions featuring celebration and gratitude, as the food was believed to ward off evil spirits and promote cleanliness.

Right1 White noodle bowls with blue-tinted glaze by Lee Hyemi from Pildong Pottery2 Beige ceramic bowls, all by Jang Mine3 Wide sky blue bowls, all by Yoon Sanghyun from Choeunsook Gallery4 White Plates by Cho Wonseok from Korean Craft Origin Han Soo

LeftSatin durumagi (traditional Korean overcoat) by KumdanjeSmall white porcelain moon jar by Lee Taeksoo from Choeunsook GalleryLarge white porcelain moon jar by Lee Jungmi from Choeunsook GalleryWhite noodle bowl by Park Seoyeon

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Splendid Festival, Village Party So when did Korean noodles debut at village parties? A historical record states: “Parties serve noodles as their main dish, but the food is expensive as wheat supplies are low and have to be imported from Beijing.” Thus before the commercial production of wheat flour, noodles were anything but common, and mostly served at major parties. When Korea was under Japanese rule, the import of wheat flour intensified, and because noodle dishes were easy to prepare and were sufficient as a hearty meal, noodles’ popularity spread throughout the peninsula. From there on, noodles began appearing at parties to feed large crowds. As treating and sharing comprise two basic traits of Korean feasts, the menu at village parties such as weddings or seventieth birthdays included noodles as the highlight. This tradition continues today, and most weddings in Korea feature the serving of janchi guksu (banquet noodles) as a treat for guests. This is why Koreans ask unmarried people the following question: “When are you going to treat me with noodles?” That’s right. It is a question that gently urges you to get married!

Noodle bowls by Kim Yeonji from Choeunsook GalleryGlass cups by Yang Yuwan from MomowaniLacquered chopsticks by Heo Myungwook from Choeunsook Gallery

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STORIES

Lunch Table with Noodles Noodle dining tables, featuring noodles as the main dish, are mainly for light lunches. Hot or cold noodles are served depending on region or season. All food, including side dishes and desserts, are placed on a small table. The side dishes consist of steamed dishes, slices of boiled meat, pancakes, and cabbage and radish water kimchi that go well with noodles. For dessert, rather than rice cakes, traditional Korean sweets, and/or fresh fruit, a choice of sikhye (sweet rice drink), sujeonggwa (persimmon punch) and fruit salad is offered.

Banquet Table with NoodlesFor major occasions like the seventieth birthday parties or weddings, a colorful gobaesang (table with high piles of food) is prepared with fruit, rice cakes and sweets. The noodle soup table that pivots on noodles with hot soup is called immaesang (banquet table with noodles), which offers a touch of class with a clean and tidy arrangement of dishes. Steamed meat, slices of boiled meat, hotpot, pancake, gangjeong (fried glutinous rice crackers with sesame or beans), raw fish, kimchi, noodle soup, rice cake soup, sikhye and sujeonggwa are served.

Traditional Dining Tables with Noodles Dining tables featuring noodles instead of rice are ideal

for lunches or dinner parties with guests.

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Text AHN SUNG HYUNIllustration GUK HYOUNG WON

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VISUAL ESSAYS

Janchi guksu (banquet noodles) are eaten at modern tables to wish a newlywed couple a long and happy marriage.

Text JOO GA EUNPhoto PARK HYUN GOO Food & Set Stylist MOON JI YOON (BUREAU DE CLAUDIA)Models LEE JI HYUN, LEE KYUNG DO, LEE SANG HA, MÉLANIE CHANTEPIE, SANKO LEWIS, YEOM SOO JINHair CHO MI YEONMake-up SEO EUN YOUNG Fashion Assistant LIM JI HYUNVenue PARADISE ZIP

Here Comes the Bride

Clean and clear anchovy broth, thin noodles you can slurp right up and beautifully arranged garnishes on top. It’s impossible to attend a wedding in Korea without sitting with other guests to eat janchi guksu (banquet noodles). In the history of Korean cuisine, these noodles were first served with a soybean broth, and Korean noodle culture is said to have greatly developed between the late Goryeo Dynasty and the early Joseon Dynasty. At that time, wheat was a precious ingredient, making this a special treat reserved for the most joyous of occasions. It seems natural that these noodles, which were eaten only at big events, became known as “banquet noodles.” From birthdays to ancestral rituals, these noodles are always around at important events in Korea, but the terms “wedding noodles” and “banquet noodles” are used interchangeably. Noodles are common now, but marking a special day by eating them remains as meaningful as it did in the past. Afternoon sunlight floods a living room on the day of this intimate banquet. No other traditional dishes are offered, but the wedding noodles satisfy all.

1. The gujeolpan (nine traditional delicacies) served alongside wedding noodles are paired with wine at this simple banquet table. The five traditional cardinal colors of the nine delicacies are said to bring long life free from illness, based on the principles of Yin Yang’s five elements. Round sharing plate by Son Se-eun.

2. Moon jar by Lee Jung-mi from Choeunsook Gallery. Shallow noodle bowls by Lee Se-yong from Choeunsook Gallery. White porcelain utensil rest by Lee Ki-jo from Choeunsook Gallery. Sky blue napkins, glasses and wooden chairs by Büro. Round sharing dish by Son Se-eun. Wine glasses by Lehmann Glass from Alt729.com. White porcelain flower vase by Park Seo-hee. Gold-dusted wooden lacquered chopsticks by Naun Craft.

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White porcelain pieces complement the meaning of longevity symbolized by noodles. Moon jar by Lee Jung-mi from Choeunsook Gallery. White porcelain soup bowl that may also be used as a noodle bowl by Lee Ku-ho.

1. Eastern-Western fusion hanbok dress with matching veil by Tchai Kim Young Jin.2. White formal suit and button-up shirt by Kimseoyrong.

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Lace skirt with asymmetrical hemline, beoson (traditional Korean socks) and shoes by Tchai Kim Young Jin.

1. Octagon- and dodecagon-shaped plates with tea snacks, octagon-shaped plates with bamcho (candied chestnuts), small round plates with pink honey cakes by Son Se-eun. Beige, round and lacquered tray by Heo Myung-wook from Choeunsook Gallery. Square plate holding square yakgwa honey cookies and round plates by Lee Se-yong from Choeunsook Gallery. Round plate with daechucho (candied jujubes) and dried apples by Park Seo-hee. Oval lacquered tray with wildflowers and gold-dusted wooden lacquered chopsticks by Naun Craft.2. White oak bench by Standard.a. Wedding treats wrapped in pink wedding bojagi by Hohodang. Small bowls and tea cups, tea cup coasters, and dagwan (traditional tea pot) set by Kim Pan-ki from Areaplus. White porcelain kettle by Yoon Se-ho from Areaplus. Mustard oval lacquered tray by Heo Myung-wook from Choeunsook Gallery.3. Wedding treats wrapped in dove-colored bojagi by Büro. Delicately embroidered floral jeogori (jacket) and skirt by Tchai Kim Young Jin.

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Philizot & Fils Numero8 by Vino Paradise brings bubbles to the party. The wine, with its fruity fragrance, complements the flavors of the food and the special signature PARADISE Edition is exclusive to Korea. Wine glasses by Lehmann Glass from Alt729.com.

1. Vase and water jug by Park Seo-hee. Cotton balloon-sleeve shirt by H&M.2. Oatmeal double-breasted suit and V-neck shirt, white suit and button up shirt, beige oversized jacket and black silk shirt by Kimseoyrong.1

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Delicate mother-of-pearl design table top with wooden legs by Naun Craft. Noodle bowl by Lee Ki-jo from Choeunsook Gallery. Leaf motif lacquered utensil rest by Park Sui from Areaplus. Lacquered utensil set by Heo Myeon-guk from Choeunsook Gallery.

1. Colorful Noodles, a popular thank-you gift for guests by Sungsil Noodle. Natural food coloring like purple sweet potatoes, mulberry leaves, acorns and white lotus create subdued hues. Pink bojagi (traditional wrapping cloth) by Hohodang.2. Simple noodle bowl with noodles and flat round plate by Jiseungmin Pottery.3. In Korean cuisine, garnish indicates that a dish is fresh and remains untouched. The traditional five colors used for garnish signify long life free from illness. Cherry-colored cutting board and knife by Robert Herder from Studio Jane. Round, lemon-colored plate by Kim Nam-hee from Areaplus.

Banquet Noodles Recipe1. Place anchovies and white radish in a pot together with sea tangle and water. Boil for 40 minutes, uncovered. Remove the ingredients and add salt and soy sauce to finish the broth. 2. Julienne the green squash and salt lightly. Remove excess liquid from the squash and sauté in sesame oil. Sauté the julienned carrots in sesame oil.3. Separate the egg whites and yolk and fry in a pan to make thin white and yellow egg garnish. Boil beef for 10 minutes and strain, then cut into strips the same size as the vegetables.4. Boil water and add somyeon (thin wheat noodles) with the lid on for 3.5 minutes to 4.5 minutes (for one serving). On the third time the water comes to a roaring bubble, pour in one cup of cold water and heat it to boiling point one more time. Remove noodles from the heat and rinse in cold water.5. Place the strained noodles in a bowl and top with garnish. Pour over the broth and serve.

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Text JOO GA EUN

Party PerfectThe nuptials of star couple Taeyang and Min Hyo-rin have been called “the wedding of the century.” Take a glimpse at the location for their

picture-perfect, fairytale wedding reception.

GOOD SELECTIONS

For more details, visit the PARADISE CITY website: www.p-city.co.kr.

The interior of the Grand Ballroom was designed by London’s G.A Design, which specializes in luxury hotel décor. The PARADISE CITY wedding venue glistens in gold and accommodates both small and large wedding parties, making it a prime venue for many brides-to-be. The Grand Ballroom is also well known for having the longest virgin road in Korea (39 meters) with an eight-meter-high ceiling. With a capacity of 720 guests per wedding event, the Grand Ballroom attracted even more attention after Taeyang and Min Hyo-rin’s wedding after-party. Following a private ceremony at church, the couple’s VIP guests were invited to an after-party at the Grand Ballroom, which was decorated to resemble the forest wedding in the Hollywood movie, Twilight: Breaking Dawn, Part 2. RUBIK’s club atmosphere and Grand Ballroom’s after-party created a dazzling fantasy escape. Moreover, the platinum party planner from the film’s art department, Yongsong Martin, helped to bring magic to life once more. In the middle of a dreamlike forest with beds of flowers, the bride and groom took their first dance as newlyweds. In addition to the magnificent wedding ceremonies and parties, PARADISE CITY also welcomes groups for private weddings at the Sapphire Room and quieter garden nuptials at the Emerald Room. Packages include ceremonies, bridal showers, after-parties, and other customizable services. Experience the finest results from master wedding planners, complete with a butler service and private garden weddings for customers who will accept nothing but the best for their special day.

Luxury Wedding Venue, Grand Ballroom

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Seafood Broth with a Taste of the OceanSeafood broth, with anchovy and kelp as its main ingredients, not only goes great with noodles but also makes the base for Korean stews and soups. This tasty broth, brewed with seafood and vegetable chunks, is usually served with boiled janchi guksu (banquet noodles) or kalguksu (knife-cut noodles).

Broth plays a key role in determing the flavor of a noodle recipe. Learn more about how the broth that forms the basis of Korean noodle dishes is made.

Text LEE EUN KYUNGPhoto PARK SUNG HOONFood styling MOON IN YOUNG

Taste Origins: Broth

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Unique Noodles Exclusive to KoreaKimchi and radish water kimchi broth has a tart and clean taste that deepens over time. Kimchimari guksu (kimchi-rolled noodles), which puts noodles in a slightly frozen mix of these two, is a summertime favorite in Korea. The kimchi in this dish adds a refreshing tart flavor and coolness, while marinated radish and other items like pear, citrus, and cucumber are added to enhance flavor.The broth is made by mixing anchovy broth and kimchi broth, kimchi broth and radish water kimchi broth, or radish water kimchi broth and meat broth. Sugar, vinegar or light mustard are added to one's preference. Pat kalguksu, or chopped noodles in red bean broth boiled over a slow but steady fire, is a popular winter dish, and kong guksu (soybean noodles), which features banquet or medium noodles and ice in a clean, milky white broth, is popular in summer.

Chicken Broth: Tasty by ItselfChicken is a widely used ingredient for broths all over the world. Like samgyetang (chicken soup with ginseng and other ingredients), many Korean dishes feature boiled chicken and healthy ingredients. Dakhanmari kalguksu, a delicious combination of chicken broth and noodles, is a dish served from a table burner that boils chicken chunks in broth. Boiled chicken meat is dipped in mustard sauce, while chopped noodles are boiled in the remaining rich broth.

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Health-bestowing Meat Broth Beef leg bone and brisket are two major ingredients used in beef broth, which is considered to be a healthy dish in Korea. For meat broth that is carefully boiled for a long time, one can add vegetables, noodles, dumplings and rice cakes. After the fat is removed, it is chilled to serve as naengmyeon broth.

Anchovy BrothIngredients 20 Dipori (large-eyed herrings), 20 anchovies, 1 onion, 1 scallion, 10cm of radish, 4 cloves of garlic, 2 pieces of kelp, 2L of water

Recipe 1 Remove entrails from dipori and anchovies and stir-fry until yellowish on a pan.2 Wash the onion and scallion to the roots and peels. Wipe kelp with a wet towel.3 Put all the ingredients and one liter of water into the pot and boil together.4 Boil it over high heat for five minutes and add half-liter of water. Upon second boil, add another half-liter of water and boil it for five more minutes. Then turn off the stove and remove kelp after 15 minutes, put the lid back on and let it cool.5 After the pot has cooled, carefully screen with a piece of cotton cloth.

Seafood BrothIngredients 1 Blue crab, 1 cup of Manila clams, 1 cup of mussels, 1 dried pollack head, 1 half cup of dried shrimp, 1 piece of kelp, 1/2 onion, 1 scallion root, 4 cloves of garlics, 10cm of radish, 1 dried red pepper, 4 dried shiitakes, one quarter cup of sake, 3L of water

Recipe 1 Wash and quarter the blue crab. Remove sand from Manila clams and wash the mussels.2 Remove the dark portions from the dried pollack head and wash. Stir-fry the dried shrimp on a pan. Wipe kelp with a wet towel. Lightly wash the dried shiitakes.3 Put all the ingredients and water into the pot. Boil for 30 minutes and screen with a piece of cotton cloth.

Mushroom BrothIngredients 10 Dried shiitakes, 1 piece of kelp, 10cm of radish, 2L of water

Recipe 1 Wash the dried shiitakes and wipe kelp with a wet kitchen tower. Quarter the radish.2 Put the shiitakes and radish into the pot and stir-fry them until yellowish.3 Add kelp and water and turn off the stove after boiling for 30 minutes. 4 Chill, then screen with a strainer.

Water Radish KimchiIngredients 4 Radishes, 350g of mustard leaves, 1/2 knob of ginger, 5 cheongyang hot peppers, 5 dried red peppers, half cup of thick salt, 2 tablespoons of fine salt, 4L water

Recipe 1 Carefully wash all ingredients.2 Roll the unpeeled and moist radishes on thick salt and salt the radish leaves by spraying evenly. Let them sit for an hour.3 Cut the mustard leaves in half, lengthwise and cut long slices of peeled ginger.4 Rinse the salted radish and radish leaves with water, and keep the water.5 Put the mustard leaves at the bottom of a kimchi container, add a mix of cheongyang pepper, dried red pepper and slices of ginger, then put salted radish and radish leaves on top.6 Taste the water used to rinse the radish; if the taste is not strong enough, add fine salt. Filter the water and pour it into a kimchi container filled with the other ingredients.7 Place a stone weight on the lid to prevent the ingredients from floating up. Keep it in a cool place, move it to a refrigerator and ferment for at least 15 days before eating. Slow ripening at low temperature results clean and tasty broth.

Soybean BrothIngredients 2 Cups of soybeans, 2L of water, pinch of salt

Recipe 1 Carefully wash the soybeans and soak them in water overnight.2 Wash soybeans in a liter of water and boil them until they are well-done and free from the smell of fresh greens. Overboiling ruins the taste; remove from heat as soon as soybeans turn soft.3 Finely grind them and add water from the remaining water to your preference.

Red Bean BrothIngredients 2 Cups of red beans, 3L of water, pinch of salt

Recipe 1 Soak the red beans overnight in water. 2 Add a liter of water to the red beans and boil for five minutes, then remove water.3 Add the remaining water to the red beans, boil well and grind finely.4 Add water to your preference.

Chicken BrothIngredients 1 Large chicken, 1 whole garlic, 1 knob of ginger, 1 onion, 1 scallion root, 6 black peppercorns, 2.5L of water

Recipe 1 Wash the chicken and remove the skin and oily parts.2 Wash the garlic, ginger, onions, and scallion root.3 Put the chicken and other ingredients into a pot with a liter of water and boil well.4 When it starts boiling, bring down to low heat and simmer. Add the remaining water once broth has reduced, and simmer longer for rich broth. Screen the broth with cotton cloth.

Meat BrothIngredients 400g Of brisket, 1 scallion, 2 scallion roots, 1 onion, 1 clove of garlic, 1 knob of ginger, ¼ teaspoon of black peppercorns, 2.5L of water

Recipe 1 Soak brisket in cold water for an hour to remove blood.2 Carefully wash scallion, scallion roots, onion, garlic and ginger all unpeeled and roots included.3 Put all the ingredients and water in the pot. When it starts boiling, reduce the heat and simmer on low heat for an hour. Remove foam and impurities during the process. 4 Remove the brisket and drain broth with a piece of cotton cloth.5 Let the broth chill and remove the fat on surface.

Beef Leg Bone BrothIngredients 2kg Of beef leg bone, 600g brisket, 4 scallions, 1 knob of ginger, 2 cloves of garlic, ½ teaspoon of black peppercorns, 6L of water

Recipe 1 Soak the beef leg bone for approximately three hours to remove blood.2 Once blood is removed, roast the beef leg bone in a pot until yellowish.3 Put all the ingredients and two liters of water and boil on high heat for an hour.4 Remove the brisket and move the broth to another container. Then add two liters of water and boil on high heat for an hour; repeat the boil. 5 Remove impurities, and remove fat hardened on top after the broth has cooled.6 Mix three types of broth well and filter with a piece of cotton cloth. Boil again, then remove fat.

Sponsored by Ceramic Yo 02-546-2710Sui 57 Atelier 02-6402-5757

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Text KIM MIN JEONG

Artful Eats Noodles are distinguishable by their appearance as well as their sound and texture. The “Noodles” series by artist Oh Seung-yul is a unique work of art that presents a three-dimensional experience, rather than a purely visual exhibit. The extraordinarily long noodles stimulate senses in many ways. These are the works of an artist who likes to observe and study a material’s inherent nature and form, examining the true essence of noodles.

PEOPLE

Ra MyunSilicone, Epoxy Resin, Steel, Aluminum 2011

Jab CheSilicone, Epoxy Resin, Steel 2011

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You’ve created artwork using noodles. What first drew you to noodles? The first work in the Noodles series was naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles), and this was followed by ramyeon (instant noodles) and japchae (stir-fried glass noodles and vegetables). I didn’t intend to focus on simple food. I started this project because of my interest in transposing simple images of everyday life to unexpected locations and invoking a range of different impressions from the audience.

What did the process of creating your works entail? I thought about what occurs when these dishes are made. I conjured up a series of processes regarding the cutting and cooking of the ingredients and placing the food on a dish, and then I visualized images of the outcomes. I took samples from various workshops on making food models and made models that looked most familiar, in my opinion. It was interesting to see that each workshop made the models in distinctly different shapes. The appearance of the toppings and thickness of the noodles was especially different every time, just like real dishes.

Looking at these long noodles makes my mouth water and makes me want to smell them, and I feel as though I can hear someone eating these noodles. Why did you make the noodles so long? I wanted to stimulate the audience’s senses through my works and remind them of their own experiences. Through the shape of the noodles hung high and their exaggerated length, I wanted to create an organic sense of movement similar to the movements of the human body. This sense was maximized in the work Temperature, which was exhibited later. I recall twisting each noodle strand to create a dynamic movement, as though the thick noodles penetrating the concrete wall were alive.

Just as interesting as the long noodles are the bowls you used. You seem to have a lot of memories of noodle dishes. I was inspired by the process of setting the table and creating a situation suitable for each noodle dish. I thought it common to eat instant noodles from a nickel-silver pot placed on a small portable nickel-silver table on a weekend or japchae served on a small portable table with cabrioles at a party – memories so common that they evoke common or shared experiences.

Did you research Korean noodle dishes while working on this project? If so, what was the appeal of the Korean noodle dishes you discovered? I didn’t do any specific research because I mainly used familiar dishes as subjects. I believe the appeal of Korean noodle dishes is its variety. There are a wide variety of noodle dishes that vary by ingredients, thickness and texture. Hamheung naengmyeon, in particular, are chewy and resilient, and its unique texture can only be found in Korean cuisine.

What sort of reactions have you had to your noodle-based work? Reactions vary based on whether the audience is Korean or not. Many dishes familiar to Koreans are completely new for non-Koreans, so such dishes tend to trigger curiosity. Even more amusing reactions were seen at exhibition venues with a quieter atmosphere because of the contrast created between the exhibits and the venue.

You left for New Zealand alone after graduating from middle school. You still travel back and forth between Korea and New Zealand for your work. How has living abroad influenced your works? What I see differs when I’m in New Zealand and Korea, and so do the subject of my works. I worked on the Noodles series during my residency for the Ggool (Honey) program. Every intriguing subject I encountered in Seoul, where I hadn’t been for seven years, became the subject of the work I created at the time. In retrospect, I can see that the works within the same series varied depending on where I was when I created them. I find the connections intriguing.

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Myeongdong Kyoja

Songok

Yeonhui-dong Kalguksu

Somunnan

Established in 1966, Myeongdong Kyoja specializes in kalguksu, using the most traditional of recipes. The dish is served in a chicken-flavored broth, garnished with meat and wonton-like dumplings. This culinary landmark is also renowned for its garlic kimchi, a perfect foil for its noodle dishes.

A 29, Myeongdong 10-gil, Jung-gu, SeoulP +82) 2-776-5348

This buckwheat noodle restaurant in downtown Seoul’s Bukchang-dong neighborhood has been around for over 50 years. Steep the noodles in the mouthwatering soup, and you will find you have finished two helpings in the blink of an eye. The broth comes in a kettle, and daikon and spring onions are plentiful here. Generous servings mean a single bowl of noodles is more than enough to fill you up!

A Namdaemun-ro 1-gil, Jung-gu, SeoulP +82) 2-752-3297

Located in Seoul’s Yeonhui-dong, this eatery offers excellent soups with a tasty, meaty broth. Complementing the soft noodles in broth is white kimchi, flavored with salt and garlic, retaining the clean, natural flavor of fresh cabbage.

A 37, Yeonhuimat-ro, Seodaemun-gu, SeoulP +82) 2-333-3955

Gongneung-dong is famed for its many anchovy noodle restaurants, and Somunnan is one of most popular. The essence of this establishment’s famous anchovy noodles lies in its broth. High-quality anchovies are roasted in a dry pan and then added to boiling water to ensure a rich taste. Plain noodles are added to the water, with seaweed and condiments as garnish. This is a great option for anyone craving a delicious, filling meal at a reasonable price.

A 81, Dongil-ro 173ga-gil, Nowon-gu, SeoulP +82) 2-973-4337

Seoul, Grand Stage of Noodles

The nation’s capital is a stage where famous noodle varieties from all over the country compete for public acclaim. Many outlets specialize in traditional favorites like naengmyeon (cold noodles) and kalguksu (knife-cut noodles), and some even participate in contests. Many establishments feature regional specialties from elsewhere in the country – making Seoul a perfect place for all sorts of noodle fans.

Text NAM BO RA Photo MAENG MIN HWA

Restaurant NavigatorNoodles have long sated the hunger of people around the world. And

wherever you go in Korea, you will find restaurants serving noodles and soups with very distinct regional characteristics - veritable treasure troves of

cultural learning and delectable dining.

WoolaeoakThis famous restaurant, specializing in Pyongyang-style naengmyeon, has operated in Seoul since it was founded three generations ago. Its founder hailed from the kitchens of Myeongweol Gwan, a famous naengmyeon restaurant in Pyongyang, and opened the first Woolaeoak restaurant back in 1946. The family’s well-honed culinary skills see them make use of exclusively Korean ingredients, keeping the naengmyeon delicious down through the years. The flavor is neither overbearing nor bland – ideal for anyone trying naengmyeon for the first time.

A 2-1, Chungmu-ro 14-gil, Jung-gu, SeoulP +82) 2-2266-7052

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GOOD SELECTIONS

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Eulji Myeonok

Munbae-dong Yuk-kal

Teumsae Ramen

Hyeonraejang

Euljiro is famous for its Pyongyang-style naengmyeon in clean broth, garnished with scallions and red pepper powder. Located right in front of Exit 5 of Euljiro 3-ga subway station, Eulji Myeonok sees lines extend down the street at meal times, as hungry customers wait for its renowned naengmyeon and pyeonyuk (slices of boiled pork).

A 11, Namdaemun-ro 1-gil, Jung-gu, SeoulP +82) 2-752-3297

Munbae-dong Yuk-kal, near Samgakji Subway Station, serves noodles with yukgaejang (spicy beef and vegetable soup). Fresh boiled noodles are added to the soup, with scallions and meat. When the noodles are added to this delightful mixture, the taste is phenomenal. The servings here are so generous that one bowl is easily enough for two diners.

A 50, Baekbeom-ro 90-gil, Yongsan-gu, SeoulP +82) 2-713-6204

This unassuming little shop, in a back alley of Seoul’s Myeongdong district, serves ramyeon for diners with a discerning palate. The highlight is bbalgyeddeokramyeon (rice cakes and noodles in spicy red soup). The soup is relatively spicy, but the taste is so addictive that many come back for more. Those favoring a less spicy taste can add rice balls or cheese.

A 19-10, Myeongdong 10-gil, Jung-gu, SeoulP +82) 2-756-5477

This Chinese restaurant, now over 60 years old, is famous for its chefs’ amazing technique, allowing diners to see experts making noodles by hand. Hyeonraejang’s handmade noodles are soft and chewy enough to double the deliciousness of jjajangmyeon (noodles in black bean sauce).

A 20, Mapo-daero 20, Mapo-gu, SeoulP +82) 2-712-0730

Jinju Hoegwan Kongguksu (soybean soup noodles) is a popular summer dish in Korea. This seasonal health food is both delicious and revitalizing, allowing diners reeling from the heat to cool off and recharge their batteries. Jinju Hoegwan, which literally means “Pearl Hall” in Korean, uses soybeans sourced exclusively from Gangwon Province. The resulting light-colored and thick soup is reminiscent of a creamy broth with its rich flavor and soft texture.

A 26, Sejong-daero 11-gil, Jung-gu, SeoulP +82) 2-753-5388

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LakheeoakThis restaurant offers everything from sides for drinking to full course meals. Lakheeoak is particularly known for its cold kimchi noodles. The noodles are cooked in a brisket-based broth, mixed with radish water kimchi, kimchi water, pear juice and onion extract, to create a smooth harmony of strong flavors. Try it with tender pork wrapped in vegetables for a great food pairing.

A 101 Eulji-ro Jung-gu SeoulP +82) 2-772-9797

Dure Guksu

Minsok Restaurant

This noodle house offers thick slices of beef neck, black mushrooms and crown daisy in a delicious anchovy broth. The thick chewy noodles, which come in huge portions, differ in flavor from rice noodles and janchiguksu (banquet noodles). Be sure to arrive early - dishes are often sold out by 2pm!

A 28, Dosan-daero 37-gil, Gangnam-gu, SeoulP +82) 2-3444-1421

Situated in the famous Kalguksu Alley of Seoul’s Namdaemun Market, this restaurant has been whipping up sonkalguksu (hand-pulled noodle soup) for 30 years. Served in a delicious anchovy broth, the dish features generous toppings of fried tofu and seaweed flakes, atop of exceptionally chewy noodles, which are kneaded on site. A tasting sample of bibimnaengmyeon (spicy buckwheat noodles) is also served with orders of kalguksu.

A 42-1, Namdaemunsijang 4-gil, Jung-gu, SeoulP +82) 2-752-9113

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Noodle Hotspots in Incheon and Gyeonggi Province

Gyeonggi Province is home to a diverse number of noodle dishes, perfected through decades of honed craft. Servings tend to feature lots of noodles in clean broths, and seasoning tends to be less salty than in other regions.

Yangyang Buckwheat NoodlesYangyang Buckwheat Noodles is featured on the Michelin Guide’s 2018 Bib Goumand list. The 100% all-natural buckwheat noodles are made for each order. The noodles stand as a meal on their own with a pleasantly tough texture and fragrant aroma. Customize the flavor with a range of sauces. For an interesting variation, try it with a serving of raw pollack as a topping.

A 10 Donggwangro15-gil Seocho-gu SeoulP +82) 2-3482-3738

Gaeseong Jip

Myungji Shelter Garden

Chogajip Kalguksu

Shinseung Banjeom

Shinpo Woori Mandu

Kanggye Bongjin Makguksu

Manghyang Bibimguksu

Hambyeonghyeon Kimchi Mari Guksu

Overlooking Paldang Reservoir, this famed eatery features oisobaki (stuffed cucumber pickles) with cold noodles that originate from North Korea. Now run by the founder’s grandchild, Gaeseong Jip offers white noodle stripes and stuffed cucumber pickles in a red soup with thin ice. Drinking the soup gives you a refreshing and invigorating chill, making this a great summer treat.

A 31, Uhyeon-ro 72beon-gil, Jung-gu, IncheonP +82) 32-773-5245

This eatery is famous for its patented pine nut noodles, which uses the finest pine nuts from Gapyeong County. The pine nuts are used to make both the broth and noodle dough. The ensuing pine flavor offers a unique and invigorating dining experience.

A 777, Gahwa-ro, Buk-myeon, Gapyeong-gun, Gyeonggi-doP +82) 31-582-9462

The main attraction at Chogajip Sonkalguksu (“Thatched House Handmade Kalguksu”) is a perfect harmony of delightfully fresh and handmade chewy noodles and clam-based broth. The soup is hot, but gives diners an extraordinarily cool and refreshing sensation.

A 31, Uhyeon-ro 72beon-gil, Jung-gu, IncheonP +82) 32-773-5245

The lasting Korean favorite, jjajangmyeon (noodles in black bean sauce), is believed to have been created at a Chinese restaurant, Gonghwachun in Incheon, in 1905. The chefs at Gonghwachun simply put black bean sauce on noodles to quickly prepare a dish for dock workers who had little time to eat. Shinseung Banjeom picked up where Gonghwachun left off. The highlight here is yunijjajang, or noodles in a mild black bean sauce with finely sliced beef and vegetables, topped with fried eggs.

A 31-3, Chinatown-ro 44beon-gil, Jung-gu, IncheonP +82) 32-762-9467

Incheon is the birthplace of jjolmyeon (spicy and cold chewy noodles). The dish is said to have been invented when someone making noodles accidentally used a cutter for udon noodles. Shinpo Woori Mandu is famous for deliciously spicy and chewy jjolmyeon, offered at a reasonable price.

A 29, Jemullyang-ro 166beon-gil, Jung-gu, IncheonP +82) 32-772-4958

The chilled cold broth of this acclaimed restaurant features pheasant meat and dongchimi served with noodles made from mountain-grown buckwheat. Two varieties of noodle dishes are served here. Dongchimi makguksu are noodles served in cold broth like Pyongyang-style naengmyeon. Bibimmakguksu features noodles mixed with piquant sauce made from Yeoju red pepper power in Hamheung naengmyeon style.

A 191, Hanam-daero, Hanam-si, Gyeonggi-doP +82) 31-793-8326

Manghyang Bibimguksu has specialized in traditional bibim noodles over the past 40 years. The sweet and sour soup comes with a dipping sauce for the noodles, made of vegetables and fermented fruit juice. Accompanying the noodles are vegetable dishes, including white kimchi, radishes, cucumber and chicory.

A 5, Gungpyeong-ro, Cheongsan-myeon, Yeoncheon-gun, Gyeonggi-doP +82) 31-835-3575 For those with a more modest

appetite, cool kimchi mariguksu is just the ticket. This eatery, in Pocheon, Gyeonggi Province, uses broiled beef leg broth to flavor its kimchi mariguksu, making the dish extra savory. The soft tofu garnish is also a highlight.

A 10, Jangmi-ro 48beon-gil, Bundang-gu, Seongnam-si, Gyeonggi-doP +82) 31-708-9777

Winters in Gangwon Province can be exceptionally long and harsh, and what sustains residents on cold days is buckwheat. So-called “tadpole” noodles and makguksu (buckwheat noodles), made using old millstones and presses are time-honored favorites – and sampling them can take you back to this province’s past.

Baekchon Makguksu

Park Jae-sook Nongga Minbak

Gangwon Tosok Restaurant

Donggwang Restaurant

Daedong Halmaeguksu

Choonha Choodong Milmyeon

Seongweon Restaurant

Hamheung Naengmyeonok

Visitors to Goseong County should not miss out on sampling makguksu. Baekchon Makguksu, located in the township of Toseong, offers a unique dining experience of ice-cold dongchimi soup with makguksu; the soup can be poured onto the noodles, with sesame oil and sugar added to taste. Just one spoonful of the piquant and refreshing dongchimi soup gets many hooked – you have been warned!

A 10, Baekchon 1-gil, Toseong-myeon, Goseong-gun, Gangwon-doP +82) 33-632-5422

Nureun-guksu (“pressed noodles”) are famous Gyeongsang-region knife-cut noodles that use only anchovy-based soup, rather than beef bone or seafood broth. At Park Jae-sook Nongga Minbak (Farm Guesthouse), noodles are made by mixing wheat flour with bean flour, pressing them into large lumps, cutting them into thin strips and adding them to anchovy broth.

A 26-3, Gwangdeoksolbat-gil, Pungcheon-myeon, Andong-si, Gyeongsangbuk-doP +82) 54-853-2771

Kudzu noodles used to be eaten as a meal by residents of mountainous areas of Korea who had little else to eat. The dish is now considered a delicacy. Kudzu and flour are mixed to make chewy noodles that are then garnished with seaweed, egg, chives and potatoes to create a truly memorable taste. Somewhat thick and spicy, the noodles are often eaten by Koreans who wish to ease an upset stomach after a night of drinking.

A 1121-16, Yeongwoldong-ro, Gimsatgat-myeon, Yeongwol-gun, Gangwon-doP +82) 33-372-9014

This restaurant in Jeongseon County offers kotdeungchigi guksu whose name literally means "nose-striking noodles" in Korean. The thick noodles, made from gluten-free buckwheat, are not sticky, so the ends of the noodle strands flick up and strike your nose softly when you eat them. Served in delightfully clean broth containing doenjang (fermented bean paste), these noodles are a pleasant treat.

A 27, Noksong 1-gil, Jeongseon-eup, Jeongseon-gun, Gangwon-doP +82) 33-563-3100

Gimhae Gupo noodles are packed with flavor. Somen noodles are put into a strong anchovy soup and then topped with roasted hot peppers. The noodles are served in a separate bowl, with the soup served so that diners can add as much as they like, seasoning with sesame oil and hot pepper paste.

A 8, Dongnam-ro 45beon-gil, Daedong-myeon, Gimhae-si, Gyeongsangnam-doP +82) 55-335-6439

This eatery is hailed as a top milmyeon (wheat noodles) restaurant, thanks to its rich and clean-tasting broth. Served year-round, the noodles here are served in deep brown broth made by brewing hanwoo (Korean prime beef) bones with traditional herbal ingredients. The soft chewy noodles are also made on the spot. Add the accompanying sauce to enhance the dish’s spicy flavor.

A 13, Haeundaehaebyeon-ro 265beon-gil, Haeundae-gu, BusanP +82) 51-746-8658

"Tadpole" noodles, a Jeongseon County specialty, get their name from their appearance: noodles are short and stout, resembling little tadpoles. They are made by putting hot corn flour dough in cold water, drop by drop, which are then covered in delicious sauce. This dish is as easy to eat with a spoon, like eating soup, and the noodles’ texture is slightly reminiscent of jelly.

A 27-2, 5iljang-gil, Jeongseon-eup, Jeongseon-gun, Gangwon-doP +82) 33-563-0439

Lovers of Hamheung-style naengmyeon flock to this restaurant in Sokcho, Gangwon Province. Hamheung is the name of two provinces in present-day North Korea. The signature dish here is handmade noodles made using sweet potato starch and dipped in spicy sauce. This eatery was the first in Korea to garnish noodles with slices of raw pollack, fermented in vinegar.

A 299, Cheongchohoban-ro, Sokcho-si, Gangwon-doP +82) 33-633-2256

The Home of Noodles, North and South Gyeongsang Province

The two Gyeongsang provinces are the country’s hub of noodle culture, with the highest consumption rate of flour and noodles in the nation. After the Korean War, a large volume of wheat flour was supplied by the US, in the form of military aid. Subsequently, a variety of noodle types developed in each region, including the wheat noodles that are still famous in Busan. In coastal areas rich with aquatic products, fish was added to noodles. And meanwhile in inland, vegetables were used in combinations to create various dishes.

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Gangwon, the Province of Buckwheat

Hayeonok

Wonjo Woojeong Restaurant

Guksu Maeul

Jinwoone Jip Guksu

Bokseongru

Geumam Soba

Boan Restaurant

Ggaggune Moriguksu

Bongmu Halmae Mukjip Gaegeum Wheat Noodles

Long ago in Jinju, South Gyeongsang Province, nobles ate buckwheat noodles in cold seafood soup. The grandchild of this restaurant’s founder carries on this culinary tradition. The secret to Hayeonok’s delightful flavor is dipping a hot iron into the seafood soup made with shrimp, anchovies, mussels and clams to rid the mix of fishy smells, before maturing in a crock for up to two weeks.

A 1317-20, Jinju-daero, Jinju-si, Gyeongsangnam-doP +82) 55-746-0525

Eotangguksu (fish soup noodles) is a specialty of Sancheong County. After being brewed, fresh water fish are deboned in a sieve and crushed. This is then mixed with soup and seasoned with red pepper flakes. Dried radish greens are added and boiled, with somyeon noodles added later. The reddish-brown soup is surprisingly clean and pleasant. The faint smell of fish is considered a subtle charm.

A 25-6, Saengcho-ro, Saengcho-myeon, Sancheong-gun, Gyeongsangnam-doP +82) 55-972-2259

Guksu Maeul (Noodle Village) is another unassuming restaurant, now 40 years old, located in the back alley of a factory area. Noodles dyed yellow with gardenia seeds are served in a warm and spicy soup, in large bowls. Smaller portions are also available. Spicy pepper, doenjang and cubed radish kimchi take the flavor of these noodles to new heights.

A 16, Wondae-ro 19-gil, Buk-gu, DaeguP +82) 53-355-4724

Two must-try dishes on Damyang Noodle Street are water and bibim noodles. Anchovy and soy sauce-seasoned noodles are also popular in winter. The restaurant was founded by the “father of Noodle Street.” Jinwoone Jip Guksu serves noodles in soup made with the finest quality anchovies for a milder aroma. Strong anchovy soup is poured onto boiled noodles, and the house sauce adds the final kick to the dish.

A 32, Gaeksa 3-gil, Damyang-eup, Damyang-gun, Jeollanam-doP +82) 61-381-5344

Gunsan’s Chinese restaurants are famous for their jjambbong noodles. Bokseongru is a small and cozy restaurant but at lunch time, long lines of hungry visitors flood through the doors. The charm of the jjambbong noodles here is their fiery flavor, as they are cooked quickly over high heat. The noodles are garnished with pork and seafood to create an unforgettable taste.

A 382, Wolmyeong-ro, Gunsan-si, Jeollabuk-doP +82) 63-445-8412

Geumam Soba has been famous for its cold bean-soup noodles for over 20 years. Buckwheat noodles are mainly used here, creating a strong visual contrast between the darker noodles and the lighter bean soup. Jeolla bean-soup noodles are characterized by a unique sweet flavor; for those who prefer less sweet, you may request to take out sugar upon ordering.

A 400-63, Girin-daero, Deokjin-gu, Jeonju-si, Jeollabuk-doP +82) 63-278-0945

The red bean soup, served with kalguksu, is a delicacy here. Hard red beans are boiled thoroughly to soften, and a clean taste is ensured, with no additives used. Eating noodles here with skillfully prepared homemade kimchi is a delight that is not to be missed!

A 95, Jungang-ro, Jeongeup-si, Jeollabuk-doP +82) 63-535-6213

Moriguksu, a dish native to the town of Guryongpo and its vicinity, consists of a massive portion of thick noodles with anglerfish, mussels, shrimp and bean sprouts, all served in a big pot. One variety is seafood knife-cut noodles that are boiled in hot pepper powder. The soup served here is the pride of the restaurant’s elderly owner, who has run the business for over 50 years.

A 239-13, Homi-ro, Guryongpo-eup, Nam-gu, Pohang-si, Gyeongsangbuk-doP +82) 54-276-2298

Acorn jelly noodles are excellent for dieters given their low calorie content. The sweet and clean noodles at Bongmu Halmae Mukjip are made with hand-ground acorns and handmade noodles, as opposed to restaurants that use acorn powder in their recipes. The sweet taste of the noodles, which come in generous portions and in a refreshing soup, form a perfect match.

A 9-3, Dansan-gil, Dong-gu, DaeguP +82) 53-981-9497

Busan wheat noodles are thin noodle stripes made from flour dough. They are then put into red sauce together with lean meat, pickled radish and egg to serve. At first glance, they look similar to jjolmyeon noodles. Gaegeum wheat noodles are served in a light chicken bone broth. Unlike cold noodles that contain a lot of starch, these noodles are good to eat right away.

A 9-4, Gaya-daero 482beon-gil, Busanjin-gu, BusanP +82) 51-892-3466

Jeolla Provinces: Capturing Tastebuds with Unique Skills

The two Jeolla provinces boast a multitude of crops, grown in fertile fields. Noodles in this region are made by hand, using skills handed down from generation to generation. Certain restaurants located throughout the provinces stay true to the original flavors of traditional dishes, with fiery-hot jjambbong noodles, sweet-and-sour bibim noodles and hearty red-bean noodle soups.

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Chungcheong Provinces: Simple and Elegant Dining

The nobles who used to go down from Seoul to the Chungcheong provinces had far more to eat than commoners due to high social status. People from Chungcheong are traditionally known to be kind and generous, and their food simple and elegant.

Sootgolwon NaengmyeonJeogok Restaurant

Seongwang Jip

Okdom Restaurant

Jejuhanmyeonga

Ollae Guksu

Sanbang Restaurant

Haenyeochon

Gireogi Kalguksu

Naengmyeon is a hit in the summer months. At this restaurant, in Daejeon, buckwheat is supplied through an exclusive contract with farmers in Pyeongchang County, Gangwon Province. As the dough used to make the noodles contains only 10 percent starch, the buckwheat’s aroma is well preserved. The soup is made using chicken, resulting in a truly distinct flavor, created with dongchimi soup.

A 18, Sinseong-ro 84beon-gil, Yuseong-gu, DaejeonP +82) 42-861-3287

Diners flock here to sample a rice porridge dish made with fresh water fish caught from the Geum River. After boiling the fish in a high-pressure pot, red pepper, powder and rice are added and boiled to make the base. Base is then supplemented with noodles, flour dumplings, scallions, water parsley and finely chopped ginseng, with ingredients boiled until they congeal. This dish is considered as refined as the generous people of Chungcheong - all thanks to its addictive taste.

A 262, Jeogok-ri, Jewon-myeon, Geumsan-gun, Chungcheongnam-doP +82) 41-752-7350

This eatery serves a noodle dish unique to Okcheon County. Meal is prepared by adding noodles to a thick soup made with fresh water fish and then boiled. The noodle is great to eat in the cold winter but also a recommended health food to enjoy in the hot summer months.

A 14, Jijeon 2-gil, Cheongsan-myeon, Okcheon-gun, Chungcheongbuk-doP +82) 43-732-8404

Rather than tile fish, this place is famous for bomalkalguksu (noodle soup with top shells.) In fact, bomalkalguksu is the only dish on the menu, and portions are served for a minimum of two diners. The noodles served here retain the unique characteristics of seaweed-flavored soup. These coarse handmade noodles are a delight - but even better is their chewy texture.

A 62, Sinyeong-ro 36beon-gil, Daejeong-eup, Seogwipo-si, Jeju-doP +82) 64-794-8833

This restaurant serves the traditional Jeju delicacy gogiguksu (meat noodles) in a rich, savory broth topped with suyuk (boiled pork). Black pork bones and lean meat are used to brew the broth in a large pot before the noodles are cooked. The rich thick broth and generous portion of noodles make this restaurant one of Jeju’s favorites.

A 373, Bukseon-ro, Jocheon-eup, Jeju-si, Jeju-doP +82) 64-782-3358

This spot, popular for both tourists and Jeju locals, features meat noodles delightfully garnished with thick pieces of pork belly in pork bone base soup.

A 24, Gwiarang-gil, Jeju-si, Jeju-doP +82) 64-742-7355

The main dishes served here are sour wheat noodles and boiled beef. The sweet, sour and appropriately spicy and refreshing soup, combined with a tougher, boiled beef is a match made in heaven. The soft-boiled beef used for garnish and the Jeju Island wheat noodles are distinctive. There can be little wonder that hordes of tourists are attracted to lip-smacking dishes like these!

A 62, Hamoisam-ro, Daejeong-eup, Seogwipo-si, Jeju-doP +82) 64-794-2165

Using fresh seafood ingredients caught by haenyeo (female free divers) from the Jeju village of Dongbok-ri, this restaurant is famous for three kinds of noodles. The hoeguksu (raw fish noodles) is known for its raw fish, marinated in hot pepper sauce, the seonggyeguksu (sea urchin noodles) for its huge helpings of sea urchins, and hanchiguksu (cuttlefish noodles) for its bite-size chunks of chewy cuttlefish.

A 33, Dongbok-ro, Gujwa-eup, Jeju-si, Jeju-doP +82) 64-783-5438

This restaurant also operates a goose farm, and its fresh goose dishes are second to none. The soup and goose meat are served in a hotpot, and the knife-cut noodles are boiled in the soup. The last of the soup is used to make rice porridge, completing a very hearty meal.

A 1854, Yunbonggil-ro, Oga-myeon, Yesan-gun, Chungcheongnam-doP +82) 41-333-3331

Taste of Nature: Jeju Island

Jeju noodles are known to retain the original flavor of their ingredients. Noodles added to strong meat broths and preparations served with generous portion of fresh seafood are great hits among locals and travelers alike.

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Bibimguksu (Spicy Mixed Noodles) The origin of the popular bibim noodles can be found in Korea’s northern provinces, where buckwheat and potatoes are grown. Pyongyang and Jinju naengmyeon use buckwheat, while Hamheung naengmyeon is made of compressed potato powder and starch. The bibim noodles of today, usually eaten with pepper paste or kimchi, originated after the Korean War, when flour became more common. Types of noodles used in bibim noodles include chewy, thin and buckwheat varieties.

Japchae (Stir-fried Glass Noodles) Japchae is a must for every Korean party. The dish has recently grown popular among non-Koreans after it was featured in popular TV show “Yoon Shikdang.” The dish has long been considered a visually appealing dish, with its first appearance coming at a palace banquet during the reign of King Gwanghae in the 17th century.

Ingredients Two servings 150g Glass noodles, 1/4 carrot, 1/4 onion, 1 shiitake mushroom, 6 spinach sprouts, 1 egg, 100g beef, beef sauce (1 tablespoon soy sauce, 1 tablespoon sugar, 1 teaspoon sesame oil, pinch of black pepper, 1 teaspoon crushed garlic), 4 tablespoons sesame oiljapchae sauce (1/3 cup soy sauce, 4 tablespoons sugar, 1 teaspoon chopped scallion, 1/2 teaspoon crushed garlic, pinch of black pepper, 2 tablespoons sesame oil)

Directions 1. Soak the noodles in hot water.2. Slice the carrots, onions and shiitake mushrooms;

remove the roots from the spinach and wash, then fry the egg into yellow and white jidan (thin egg topping). Marinate the beef in the seasoning sauce. 3. Put sesame oil on a heated frying pan and add the carrots, onions, shiitake mushrooms and beef.4. Once about half cooked, add the softened noodles and fry for approximately three minutes. Then add the spinach and fry for another three minutes.5. Mix the japchae seasoning sauce well. Fry and stir well for a further two minutes, then sprinkle with sesame seeds. 6. Put in a bowl and garnish with jidan.

Ingredients One serving 1/4 Carrot, 1/4 onion, 1/4 cucumber, 1 cabbage leaf, 30g bean sprouts, 1 egg, 100g chewy noodlesSauce (1 tablespoon hot pepper paste, 1/2 tablespoon sugar, 1 tablespoon apple vinegar, 1/8 teaspoon minced garlic, 1/2 tablespoon sesame seeds)

Directions 1. Finely chop the carrots, onions, cucumbers and cabbage leaves.2. Boil the egg and cut it in half. Blanch the bean sprouts.3. After completely separating the chewy noodles,

put them in boiling water, boil for three to four minutes, and rinse several times in cold water.4. Mix all the sauces evenly.5. Put the chewy noodles, chopped vegetables, bean sprouts and eggs in a bowl, then add the sauce. Mix everything and serve.

Visual directing RYU Photo BORA Food styling MOON IN YOUNG

Meet Korea’s Favorite NoodlesHow do Koreans make noodles at home? Learn how to cook Korea’s four best-loved noodles dishes: japchae (stir-fried glass noodles), kalguksu (knife-cut noodles), naengmyeon (cold noodles), and bibimguksu (spicy mixed noodles).

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Ingredients One serving Meat broth (600g beef brisket, 1/2 onion, 5 garlic cloves, 5 whole black peppers, 1 spring onion root, 2 greens of spring onion), 2 liters water (for 4 servings of broth), 1 tablespoon soy sauce, pinch of salt

Directions 1. Put the meat into cold water for one hour to remove blood.2. Add new water and meat in a pan and simmer thoroughly for about five hours.3. Let the boiled broth cool, drain the oil, then add soy sauce and salt.

2 1/2 Cups meat broth, pinch of salt, 1 teaspoon vinegar, 1 teaspoon sugar, 100g naengmyeon noodles, 1/4 cucumber, 1cm dongchimi radish, 1 egg, vinegar, mustard, sesame seeds

Directions 1. After seasoning the meat broth with salt, vinegar and sugar, store it in the freezer. Slice the boiled meat thinly.2. Boil the naengmyeon noodles in water and immediately rinse several times in cold water. Remove the water afterward.3. Slice both the cucumber and dongchimi radish thinly.4. Hard boil the eggs and cut them in half.5. Put the noodles in a bowl and place cucumber, dongchimi radish, sliced meat, egg, and sesame seeds on the noodle, then add the meat broth from the freezer.6. Add vinegar and mustard to one's taste.

Ingredients One serving Knife-cut noodles (1 cup flour, 1/3 cup water, dash of salt, cooking oil), pinch of flour, 2 cups clams, 1/4 onion, 1/8 zucchini, 1/8 carrot, 1/4 spring onion, 1 teaspoon chopped garlic, 1 teaspoon soy sauce, dash of salt, black pepper, 5 cups water

Directions 1. Put the salt, water and cooking oil in the flour for the knife-cut noodles and knead until fine dough.2. After coating the dough with flour, wrap it in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Then flatten the dough down to 0.3cm thick, fold it and chop it to strips 0.2cm thick. Sprinkle with flour to prevent from sticking.3. Clean the clams thoroughly to remove sea sand, and julienne zucchini and carrot. Chop the spring

onion into small pieces.4. When water starts to boil in the pot, add clams and bring to boil.5. When the clams open up, remove them and add knife-cut noodles into the water after shaking off the flour. Boil until about half-cooked. Then add the onion, zucchini, carrot, crushed garlic and soy sauce and boil.6. Once the noodles are well cooked, add the spring onions and clams. Season with ground pepper and salt to finish before serving in a bowl.

Bajirak Kalguksu (Knife-cut Noodles with Clams) This dish is prepared by boiling finely rolled flour dough cut into noodle strips in a savory soup flavored with short-necked clams. These noodles are the specialty of the provinces of North and South Jeolla and South Chungcheong as well as the city of Ansan, Gyeonggi Province; each of these areas are adjacent to mud flats. A Joseon-era cookbook advises mixing eggs with wheat flour to make the dough, rolling it evenly, cutting it into thin strips, and cooking it all in a boiled pheasant meat broth.

Naengmyeon (Cold Noodles) People from the northern part of the Korean Peninsula say authentic naengmyeon (cold noodles) should come in a bowl of radish water kimchi so cold that it could give one chills on a heated floor. Nowadays, naengmyeon is categorized into Pyongyang and Hamheung naengmyeon. The Pyongyang version entails buckwheat noodles in cold radish soup or broth, and the Hamheung version involves cold corn or sweet potato noodles with sliced raw skate in red hot sauce. Both the flavors and methods differ greatly.

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Text LEE EUN KYUNG Photo PARK SOON AE

Global Gourmet

Spaghetti alla Chitarra at La Scala

La Scala, located on the ground floor of PARADISE CITY HOTEL&RESORT, offers authentic Italian cuisine featuring pasta and pizza as its main dishes. Head chef Maurizio Ceccto sticks to the main principles of making Italian homemade food by always using the freshest ingredients to create mouthwatering dishes. Spaghetti alla Chitarra blends the harmony of seafood, cherry tomatoes and fresh noodles. As the signature dish of La Scala, this dish is famous for its taste, created with classic seafood sauce, focusing on freshness. As the Italian word for “guitar,” chitarra brings to mind the strings on the instrument it is named after with long, spaghetti-like pasta. To create the taste and texture of authentic Italian chitarra noodles, La Scala uses two types of wheat flour of varying particle sizes imported from Italy. Aromatic and elastic noodles are completed by using 35 yolks for 1kg of dough. The chefs also consider the texture and feel of the noodles when judging the ratio of the ingredients. La Scala is a veritable bastion of high-quality pasta.

A gala of global noodle dishes from Italy, China and Vietnam showcase exotic tastes and moods.

Address 186, Yeongjonghaeannam-ro 321beon-gil, Jung-gu, IncheonPhone +82) 32-729-2203Hours 12:00~15:00, 18:00~22:00

CLASSIC ITALIAN PASTA

GOOD SELECTIONS

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Paljintangmyeon and Tantanmyeon at Nampung

PARADISE HOTEL BUSAN commands a beautiful sea view off the coast of Haeundae Beach. Nampung is a famous gourmet eatery in Busan where diners can enjoy excellent Chinese cuisine in privacy. Chef Steve Jun, who learned Chinese cooking skills in cities such as Sichuan and Chongqing, presents upscale Chinese food with his own modern recipes and interpretation. Paljintangmyeon (chinese seafood noodle soup) includes eight treasures and colorful visuals like shrimp, abalone, beef, squid and vegetables. Pan-boiled vegetables are stir-fried on high heat, while freshly made noodles are boiled. Then broth, with a little starch, is added. The harmony between soft and bountiful ingredients makes a robust health food. Sichuan Chongqing Tantanmyeon (tantan noodles) features boiled thin dry egg noodles, in water with boiled green beans. Hearty beef leg bone broth adds flavor.

MODERN CHINESE DINING FEATURING HEARTILY BREWED BROTH

Address 3F, Paradise Hotel Busan, 296, Haeundaehaebyeon-ro, Haeundae-gu, BusanPhone +82) 51-749-2260Hours 12:00~15:00, 18:00~22:00

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Pho Anh Tai Man at Ahn

This quaint Saigon-style restaurant offers homestyle Vietnamese cooking while being surrounded by plants. Featured on tvN’s “Wednesday Food Talk,“ a TV show that features outstanding restaurants, Ahn has become famous for exhibiting the essence of Vietnamese cuisine. The establishment’s name in Vietnamese refers to endearment between a married couple. The owners, however, are not a couple. Kevin and Jason, both Vietnamese-Canadians, moved to Korea to make homestyle meals that their mothers used to prepare when they were children. An order of Pho Anh Tai Man includes rice noodles and beef tenderloin served in broth brewed all day long from meat and various spices. A basket of green bean sprouts, lime, Thai basil, cilantro and red pepper is served as well, so diners can add condiments as preferred. Rice noodles with vegetables look like warm salad, and the dish is harmonized with rich meat broth and condiments.

SAIGON-STYLE HOME COOKING

Address 262-13, Donggyo-ro, Mapo-gu, SeoulPhone +82) 70-4205-6266Hours 12:00~15:00, 18:00~22:00

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On the Noodle Road

Food is just as representative of a country as its language. Today food is even more significant than religion or customs in defining national identity. Noodles are a prime example of food that represents a country’s people and identity. Throughout the world, noodle dishes are extremely varied as each culture has put its stamp on its own concoctions. Noodles offer a look at both the past and future of humankind. Meet documentary producer Lee Wook-jung, a man who takes everyone he meets on a delectable gourmet tour.

Lee considers foodmentary (food+documentary) as the essence of understanding people. He seeks to explore the question “Who are we?” through cooking. His documentary series “Noodle Road,” first aired in 2008, examines human history through the medium of food. This humanistic approach is the reason behind the popularity of his documentaries. In 2010, “Noodle Road” debuted on China’s CCTV and recorded high ratings. More than 30 countries have aired the series, which is pioneering a new paradigm in TV food shows. While serving as a documentary producer, Lee completed the highest course at the Le Cordon Bleu Culinary Institute, after which he opened a food studio. In June last year, he opened a restaurant he designed, matching the documentary’s theme at TV network KBS in Seoul’s Yeouido. Visitors can sink their teeth into the mouthwatering noodle dishes featured on the series and watch Korean food shows starring Korean pop music stars. Lee’s passion for food is certainly not limited to the palate.

Food is a huge part of culture. We learn about food depending on the environment we grow up in. What country you grow up in obviously plays a massive role, but so does the household you grow up in. What was food culture like at your house?My grandfather is from Pyeongyang Province (present-day North Korea) and my father was born in Manchuria (China). Because of that influence, I’ve had a lot of experience with Chinese and North Korean cuisines. Whenever I went to my parents' house, we’d make things like dumplings, mung bean pancake and cold noodles. My mother also made Japanese food often because she spent her youth in Tokyo. I had a lot of memories and experiences with food and those might explain my passion for it. I always think of certain food depending on factors like the weather, atmosphere and my surroundings.

Noodles are becoming a staple food around the world. How did the history of noodles begin?Wheat was first domesticated in Mesopotamia and then spread to various regions. At that time, wheat was mainly dried and used for making bread. It then made its way to the Urumqi region of Xinjiang Uighur, which was under Chinese influence, and noodles were born. Noodles are said to be the result of wheat meeting the

soup of Central Asia and cooks experimenting with boiling them in water. Noodles are a fine example of a perfect blend of dry food of the West with wet food of the East. Noodles originated in Central Asia, which was the center of the Silk Road, and spread across mainland China to eventually reach Korea and Japan. To the West, noodles found their way to Islamic and European countries like Italy, where it became pasta. This is why they call the Silk Road the “Noodle Road.”

You studied a lot about the history of noodles when shooting “Noodle Road.” Could you tell us a little about the history of noodles in Korea?The history of noodles in Korea is shorter than most think. Wheat was precious during the Joseon Dynasty, so noodles were mostly made from buckwheat and starch. King Sejong, near the beginning of the Joseon Dynasty, loved buckwheat noodles, with one anecdote saying that he alloted more buckwheat to Gyeonggi, Gangwon and Chungcheong provinces. Korea had few commercial cities in those days. One factor behind the growth of noodles in Korea was the development of commercial cities and the culture of dining out. This is because noodles are well-suited to an urban lifestyle. Noodles can be made and eaten quickly, but making noodles at home is difficult. For example, making compressed noodles like naengmyeon (cold noodles in chilled broth) is tough. Even seemingly simple noodles like kalguksu (Korean knife-cut noodles) are tremendously complicated to make. Characteristics like these fit well with the food culture of a major

The six-part TV documentary Noodle Road traces the 3,000-year history of noodles, an exquisite dish that continues to flourish today.

Producer Lee Wook-jeong at his cooking studio, where the fragrances of people, books and food converge.

Text KIM MIN JEONG Photo BORAPEOPLE

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commercial city. Unfortunately, the history of commercial city development in Korea is rather short. But just like the fast pace of Korea's industralization, the country’s noodle culture is also developing at a remarkable rate. A 2014 survey found that Koreans consume 9.7 kg of noodles per capita per year, more than any other country. Noodle-eating culture in Korea has developed so quickly that a variety of noodle dishes can be found everywhere in the country.

In a recent episode of “Food Odyssey: The Taste of Seoul,” foods in Seoul such as seolleongtang and chueotang were featured. A striking aspect of this was that people put noodles in soups to eat with rice. What do you make of this?The culture of eating somen noodles in soup dates back to early China, Japan and Southeast Asia. But in Korea, people don't just eat noodles but also add rice to eat with the noodles, which is unique to Korean culture. Seolleongtang and chueotang were more common among ordinary folk than the nobility. It seems as if people have taken these quick and filling noodles and put them in soup to maximize their function.

Is there any other culture related to noodles that's unique to Korea?Naengmyeon (cold noodles) in chilled broth are a unique noodle dish. People in nearby China and Japan also ate buckwheat noodles, but because they had plenty of wheat, buckwheat noodles weren’t prevalent like in Korea. Honestly, making gluten-free buckwheat noodles is difficult and Koreans are the only people to put them in ice-cold soup.

Food is said to go on new journeys with human movement and migration. Are regional characteristics apparent when one looks at the kinds of noodles people eat by country and region? Noodles are like a white canvas: they interact with food culture and are transformed into variety of colors. Just as a painting on a canvas is in the hands of the painter, noodles are recreated based on country’s or region’s food culture. For example, a noodle dish in Japan features noodles steeped in soup flavored with kelp or tuna, whereas in Southeast Asia, there are noodle dishes made using coconut milk. This clearly illustrates the influence of each food culture being reflected in noodle dishes.

I hear a lot of negative opinions on flour consumption, with many people saying noodles are unhealthy. You said traditions can be adapted if social and political needs arise. In what direction are noodles heading? I used to eat noodles for lunch in the past, but I now eat them regardless of the time of day. The consumption of rice is decreasing while that of wheat is skyrocketing. Instant noodles are the most popular food in Korea, but the market has now become rather saturated. With the development of convenience food, people are seeking quality food rather than just instant food. The instant noodles market is seeing a growing number of categories and choices, so the needs of individuals are being met. People are enjoying a wide variety of noodle dishes such as rice noodles, pad thai and pasta dishes.

You say foodmentary (food+documentary) is the essence of understanding human beings. What do noodles tell us about people?That they pursue fun and are curious. There’s no other food with the unique qualities of noodles. Most food retains its natural form. For example, think about rice and grilled fish. Even after cooking, they retain their original form. Noodles are a unique food in that sense. Their texture and shape are worlds apart from the raw ingredients used to make them. Noodles provoke our sense of curiosity and provoke us to experiment with our imaginations. Humanity has long passed the stage of eating merely to survive. Noodles are fun and fast. That’s why their consumption continues to grow at an incredible rate.

What is your favorite Korean noodle dish?I like the unique and fragrant flavor of Pyongyang naengmyeon. This dish requires more effort to make than other noodle dishes, but that doesn’t bother me at all. The broth also has a perfectly harmonious taste, with not one flavor standing out. Noodles are not richly garnished or prepared in a fancy manner but they are always elegant. Once lured by their elegant charm, nobody can resist them. That elegant charm found in other areas of traditional Korean culture radiates from a bowl of Pyongyang naengmyeon.

1 Buddhist monks were the first to bring noodles to Japan. Though tradition dictates that monks eat in silence, making a slurping sound is unavoidable, almost a testament to the noodles’ taste. Monks are said to eat slowly without uttering a sound to express their deep gratitude and respect for the food they eat. Yet even they cannot help slurping loudly when eating noodles.2 Koreans in pre-modern times primarily enjoyed tang (broth soup) and jjim (stewed meat), and this preference was related to the cooking utensils available. Deep pots were used to simmer ingredients for tang, and the introduction of wheat brought about a new noodle culture.3 In Southern Italy, Naples is the city of noodles. Before the 17th century, pasta was the food of the common people, and with the invention of wheat mill noodles became known as a quintessential Western food. Today, a modern Italian family eats an annual average of 31kg of pasta.4 Noodles are categorized by their degree of dryness. Some are freshly kneaded and cut from dough, while dried noodles have their moisture removed by natural or industrial processes. Some noodles, meanwhile, are made crisp by frying.

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The town of Guryongpo in Pohang, North Gyeongsang Province, is a 90 minute drive from Busan. Legend has it that ten dragons once rose from the sea here. One fell to earth, while the other nine made it to the sky. The village remains popular among travelers, and is replete with magnificent nature and history. As a whale habitat rich with seafood, such as half-dried herring, snow crab and squid, the village is also home to Jeil Noodle Factory, which, over the past 50 years, has made sea breeze noodles according to the traditional method.

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Text LEE EUN KYUNG Photo PARK SOON AE

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Somyeon (Korean thin noodles) are dried noodles that shatter when just a little force is applied to them. The dish once satisfied the hunger of common folks living in extreme poverty after the Korean War, and still remains a favorite that fills the stomach fast. Made with wheat flour, water and salt, the noodles seem nothing special at first sight, but appearances can be deceptive. Made by a woman in her 80s and her son, the noodles have a particularly chewy texture, as they are made traditionally by drying the noodles in the sea breeze and then allowing to ferment for a full day. This is why not only the villagers, but also diners from distant cities drop by to this small market alley in Guryongpo.

Noodles are hung in the backyard of the noodle factory, which faces the sea front. Half-dried in the sun and sea breeze with their ends curled and flattened, the noodles are then moved to the indoor ripening area. Depending on the weather, the drying and ripening process can last for some 15 hours. The elastic and chewy texture of these noodles can only be found here.

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From the early days of the factory to present day, this noodle machine has been in operation for over 50 years. The dough that goes through the rollers is made into a scroll, and the process is repeated five times. The process thins the dough down to 2mm and is then moved to the end of the machine and turned into thin noodles. Hung on thin bamboo sticks, the noodles look beautiful, neat and tidy, like a knot of yarn unwound and arrayed. As most somyeon is fast-dried at modern facilities, finding a place that makes noodles in the traditional method is hard. Back in the 1970s, this area had as many as eight noodle factories but today, only Jeil Noodle Factory remains.

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The noodle factory continues to use a balance with weights, which is one of a kind in Korea. An 80 year old lady measures the weight of clean-cut noodles and packages them by rolling a sheet of paper around them. The routine of making the dough, cutting it, and making and drying the long yarn-like noodles in the sea breeze is carried out daily.

The noodles of Jeil Noodle Factory can be purchased via phone orders or by visiting the factory. A pack of somyeon is priced at 2,500 won.Address 19-2, 221-beongil, Homi-ro, Guryongpo-eup, Nam-gu, Pohang, Gyeongsangbuk-do.Phone 054-276-2432

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Napmyeon, Easy Hand-pulled Noodles

Jeolmyeon, Sliced Noodles Made from Stretched Dough

Somyeon, Thin Dried Noodles

Cooks add baking soda to dough made from wheat flour and water, and is then strained and stretched lengthwise while adjusting the number of strands and thinness. Called hand-pulled noodles, they are chewier and more fun to watch being made than machine-produced varieties. Industry professionals and academies teach advanced skills in making hand-pulled noodles. Napmyeon is perhaps most famous in dishes such as Korean jjajangmyeon (noodles in black bean sauce), Chinese noodles and Japanese ramen.

This method makes dough thin by pressing a wooden rolling pin over it, and kalguksu (knife-cut noodles) is the best known Korean food made this way. Kneading time and other ingredients like egg give the noodles a chewier texture. As kalguksu eateries use thick flattened, cut dough, the noodles make a square-shaped cross section, but the dough is sometimes stretched very thin.

Two types of thin noodles are available: machine-made and hand-pulled. The former are 1mm thin after dough is put through the roller and the noodles are placed on wood planks for drying. The latter are made by wrapping thick noodles on a stick and pulling them with hands to make the noodles thinner.

This method requires cooks to press dough through a hole-filled frame and it can make noodles from less sticky ingredients like buckwheat, rice and corn. The shaped noodles are immediately parboiled for elasticity. Naengmyeon, milmyeon and jjolmyeon are made by using this method.

Apmyeon, Noodles Shaped Using a Hole-filled Frame

Text LEE EUN KYOUNGPhoto MAENG MIN HWA, PARK SOON AE

How It’s MadeThe Chinese agricultural encyclopedia Qimin Yaoshu (Essential Skills for the People’s Welfare), written by Jia Sixie, an agronomist who lived during the Northern Wei Dynasty, describes suinbakdonbeop as the first noodle recipe ever recorded. Referred to as suinbyeong, or food made from wheat flour and strained in water, methods of making noodles have diversified over the centuries.

Somyeon (Thin Noodles)

Colored Somyeon

Dangmyeon Kalguksu

This standard type of dry noodles is enjoyed across the country. Also known as the “unseasoned noodles,” somyeon are around 1mm thick and divided into those made by machine and by hand. The noodles are cooked in boiling water and rinsed in cold water before being made into a dish. Vegetables used in the dish are also distinguished from meat as represented by the term ”noodles with vegetables and without meat sauce.” Restaurants also usually refer to the latter type when talking about somyeon. Boiled somyeon is served in hot broth with garnish placed on top or mixed with vegetables, kimchi and red pepper sauce.

Mugwort (green), acorns (brown), cactus (red), and other natural ingredients produce a colorful spectrum of noodles. While the taste is identical to standard white noodles, the colored counterparts are mostly used for decorating the dish.

Dangmyeon (glass noodles) is dry noodles made with potato starch, sweet potato or mung beans. When heated, the noodles turn sleek and clear, delivering a firm texture, and are widely used in hotpots or soups.

Jjolmyeon

Jjolmyeon (chewy noodles) gets its name from the texture of its noodles. The dish uses thicker, more elastic and yellowish noodles than naengmyeon. In the early 1970s, a naengmyeon factory in Incheon created noodles thicker than normal by mistake. A nearby noodles eatery mixed the irregular noodles with red pepper seasoning, thus giving birth to a jjolmyeon dish.

Name of the noodles comes from the use of knife (kal), used to cut flattened wheat flour dough into noodles. This simple, unassuming dish is often served at home in Korea. Southern province kalguksu typically includes seafood with thick noodles, whereas the Gyeonggi Province version has thin noodles in beef leg bone soup or chicken broth. In North Gyeongsang Province, cooks add soybean powder to wheat flour to make the dough. The broth used differs by region: Gangwon Province favors jang kalguksu, which uses soybean paste and red pepper sauce, the Chungcheong Province is well known for its sukgat kalguksu (crown daisy noodles) and the Jeolla Province, the pat kalguksu (red bean noodle). Boiling the broth and noodles together makes a rich, starchy feast.

Enjoyed in North Korea, where buckwheat is common, these noodles are representative of the cuisine of North’s Pyongan province. The noodles come in two types: noodle soup and spicy noodles. Spicy noodles include ingredients such as stir-fried beef, seasoned cucumber, seasoned green pumpkin and stir-fried shiitake, and Hamheung-style spicy noodles are spicy with seasoned raw beef or skate.

Maemilmyeon

Similar to gnocchi, sujebi is hand-torn noodle made from dough that mixes wheat flour and potato starch. Each region of Korea has a unique recipe for sujebi. Coastal regions add seafood such as shellfish or sea mustard, whereas cooks further inland usually make soup with beef. Sujebi dough is made slightly more sticky than regular noodle dough by adding water and egg to a mix of wheat flour and starch.

Sujebi

Naengmyeon

Milmyeon

These cold noodles are made by adding starch to buckwheat flour. This dish is peculiar to the country and seldom found abroad. Beef or chicken broth and broth, using radish water kimchi or nappa cabbage kimchi are chilled or slightly frozen. The noodles are served with sliced cucumber pickles, pieces of boiled pork, and water kimchi radish chunks on top. Pyongyang naengmyeon look dark brown due to the high portions of buckwheat and the chewy Hamheung naengmyeon are light gray as a result of the starch content.

As a specialty of Busan, milmyeon (long thin noodles) are made of fresh noodles shaped from wheat flour dough. The dough is ripened for one full day to attain the right texture and flavor. Described as a distinctive food in Dongguksesigi (A Record of an East Asian Country’s Seasonal Customs), Busan milmyeon appeared as a replacement for naengmyeon after the Korean War.

Photo AN JI SUB

Know Your NoodlesAs per Gosasibijib, a farming compendium from the late Joseon Dynasty period,

“Noodles are originally made of wheat flour, whereas in our country, they are made of buckwheat flour.” In addition to wheat flour, Korean noodles have used other grains, and distinctive noodles remain popular regional specialties.

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1 Decorative geometric shapes by Foundfounded2 Decorative ceramic sphere and khaki-colored incense by Choi Sujin3 Traditional lacquered chopsticks by Chopstickshouse4 Matte blue bowl by Park Seoyeon5 Matte orange, white/beige, and gray bowls, all by Jang Mine

1 Lacquered metal dish, lacquered chopsticks, beige lacquered bowl, mini lacquered orange dish, all by Heo Myungwook from Choeunsook Gallery

2 Yellow two-toned lacquered chopsticks by Chopstickshouse3 Red lacquered nickel bowl by Ahwon Gallery4 Green lacquered bowl by Park Moonju

Beautiful, high-quality, hand-crafted Korean noodle bowls and chopsticks.

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1 Wooden bowl by Ahwon Gallery2 Floral carving mother-of-pearl utensil rest by Chopstickshouse3 Seven piece set of non-glossy bowls and chopsticks with gold lacquer accent

by Lee Eunhee from KOREAN CRAFT ORIGIN4 Lacquered ash wooden noodle bowl by GHGM5 Black lacquered noodle bowl by Park Sui6 Green lacquered chopsticks by Park Moonju7 Decorative green ceramic wedge by Choi Sujin

1 Beige matte finished noodle bowl by Yoon Sanghyuk from Pildong Pottery2 Gray high-sided noodle bowl by Kang Minkyung3 Pink terrazzo tray, vase, and decorative sphere, all by PEPAMINT4 Conical pink tea light holder and decorative ivory half-circle book end

by Foundfounded5 White soup bowl with line accent, ceramic spoon and

chopsticks, all by Kim Seokbin Ceramic6 Sky blue utensil rest by Park Seoyeon7 Pink lacquered chopsticks, soup bowl-shaped utensil rest by Chopstickshouse8 White porcelain soup bowl by Lee Hyemi from Pildong Pottery9 Pale beige bowl by Yeon Hokyung from KOREAN CRAFT ORIGIN10 Decorative long, white piece by Choi Sujin

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Pyeonghwaok’s Pyongyang Naengmyeon and Spicy Beef-Bone Soup NoodlesChef Lim Jung-sik hopes to serve inter-Korean peace dishes abroad

A well-known chef specializing in modern Korean cuisine, Lim Jung-sik opened a restaurant in Incheon International Airport. After receiving two Michelin stars for Jungsik in New York and another two stars for Jung Restaurant in Seoul, Lim has opened a new space with recipes closer to true Korean originals than those at his other restaurants. With beef-bone soup noodles and Pyongyang naengmyeon (cold noodles), his newest bistro offers Korean cuisine at a major international airport. The soup noodles are healthy dishes that originate from janggukbab, or rice in beef soup brewed with beef head meat and intestines, with a touch of seasoning. Served with noodles instead of cooked rice, the dish is recommended as a hangover cure because its rich meat broth and spiciness. As North Korea’s most famous dish, Pyongyang naengmyeon is dangerously addictive. Slowly brewed from meat, the broth is topped with sticky noodles made with a mix of buckwheat and wheat, cool watery kimchi with no red pepper powder, and thin slices of beef shank and scallions. The crispness of napa cabbage, the rich scent of meat and the full flavor of the broth will linger in the mouth after sampling the dish.

Min’s Kitchen’s Bulgogi NoodlesChef Kim Min-ji merges traditional Korean food with noodles

Min’s Kitchen offers home style Korean meals in a modern restaurant. Chef Kim Min-ji uses fresh seasonal ingredients that are neither spicy nor complex. With healthy, traditional Korean food focusing on taste and health, the restaurant is noted for its stylish plating tinctured with Korean elements. Kim has shared her recipes on Korean food with a clean taste and demonstrated her plating creativity on TV programs and in books. Kim majored in music and studied abroad in the Netherlands and France in 1994. Her career took an unexpected turn after she started cooking Korean food using ingredients available in the foreign countries. Kim is now a specialist in Korean food. One of the most popular dishes at Min’s Kitchen, bulgogi noodles, have titillated the taste buds of people from around the world. As noodles are stir-fried in broth, they absorb seasoning through and through. This dish is popular as a meal or as a snack, well paired with wine or traditional Korean spirits. Sitting across from the scenic Dosan Park in Seoul’s Gangnam district, this restaurant offers superb access to shopping and cultural venues and is a must-visit for food-fan travelers to the area.

Address 4F, Incheon Airport Terminal 2, 272, Gonghang-ro, Jung-gu, IncheonPhone +82) 32-743-8635Hours 06:00~22:00

Address 10-4, Dosan-daero 45-gil, Gangnam-gu, SeoulPhone +82) 2-544-1007Hours 11:30~15:00, 17:30~22:00

PEOPLE

Spicy beef-bone soup noodles are rich with scallions and meat in a red broth. And with chewy noodles and thin slices of beef shank, Pyongyang naengmyeon is a Korean dish that represents both South and North Korea.

Cooks used to roast the meat in individual pieces with great care, as bulgogi was enjoyed by the loyalties. As various vegetables are ground and put into the sauce, diners can concentrate on the meat’s clean taste. With seasoned beef shank and stir-fried noodles, one can savor the chewy noodles, clean taste, and the sweetness of pear and vegetables.

A Modern SpinYoung chefs are whipping up modern Korean fare using traditional

ingredients and recipes. Here are some noodle dishes made by chefs whose restaurants are recognized by the Michelin Guide.

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Mingles’ Jang NoodlesChef Kang Min-goo discovers new dishes using the most traditional Korean ingredients

Chef Kang Min-goo serves modern Korean food recreated in a unique style that crosses the boundary between Korean and Western cuisine. Mingles has not only been Michelin Guide-listed, but has also been named Korea’s best restaurant by KorEat, a survey that identifies the best Korean restaurants. Inspired by the familiar dishes and ingredients, Kang offers an exclusive array of dishes that feature jang (sauce), a major condiment in Korean cuisine. However, this chef’s noodles are unique. The ink-based pasta mixes the uniquely strong flavors and scents of the ocean, including seaweed, finely chopped onions, sea urchin and shrimp, and creates a new sensation and taste of Korean food. As suggested by its name, “Mingles,“ the restaurant showcases chef’s bold moves in finding harmony from the mix of unlikely ingredients. For example, the restaurant’s signature dessert is the ice cream, made of soy bean paste, soy sauce and red pepper sauce, definitely a mixture of odd choices for a dessert. Full disclosure of the ingredients adds more fun to the delectable dessert. Meals are served in courses while Jang noodles should be ordered separately.

Address 757, Seolleung-ro, Gangnam-gu, SeoulPhone +82) 2-515-7306Hours 12:00~15:00, 18:00~22:30

The taste is created with capellini, seaweed soy sauce and squid ink, topped with shrimp and sea urchin. The dish highlights the impressive firmness of the shrimp, which accompanies the savory taste of the seaweed soy sauce. This noodle dish also features sun-dried noodles in anchovy gravy, which has a rich savory taste that comes from cold brewing methods.

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Tomato

Great for anyone worried about the high sodium content of ramyeon, the potassium found in tomatoes helps remove salt from your body. Tomatoes also enhance the taste of seafood soup.

Egg

Considered ramyeon’s best companion, egg can be added in a variety of ways. Some prefer adding beaten egg while others prefer whole egg. Adding a boiled or half-boiled egg to the top of the noodles after cooking can preserve soup’s taste.

Cheese

Another must-have ingredient for “hangover ramyeon,” is cheese. The cheese in ramyeon helps relieve stomach pain and lessens its intensity.

Text KIM MIN JEONG Illust KIM JI EUN

Popular RecipesLearn how to cook some of the trendiest new ramyeon recipes!

New ToolsThe traditional nickel silver pot is not the only tool you can use to cook your ramyeon. Here are a few new pieces of kitchenware winning fans around the country.

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Mushrooms

Mushrooms help build flavor in the ramyeon stock, providing a rich and deep taste. Cut shiitake mushroom into thick slices and add to the stock. For a chewy texture, black mushrooms are a popular choice.

Onions

Add onions for a less greasy taste. To prevent the onions from masking the taste of the soup, cut them into thick slices and add them when the water starts to boil. For those who prefer the crunch and taste of onions, use thin slices and add them just after ramyeon has been cooked.

Bean sprouts

Bean sprouts are an essential ingredient if you have hangover. Timing is crucial, however. If you undercook the sprouts, they give off a fishy smell. For best results, add the bean sprouts with the noodles. Sprinkling a bit of red pepper powder into the dish will double the spiciness of the soup.

Tae Jin-ah’s Milk Cola Ramyeon

This intriguing recipe was featured on Korean reality show “My Little Old Boy.” The exceptional flavor of the ramyeon comes out through the combination of milk and cola and its taste appeals to everyone.

Speed Cook, Lock & Lock

This special ramyeon pot is optimally designed for cooking ramyeon. It features chopsticks holder to hold your chopsticks while you are cooking. The pot's lid and handle are designed to better support the pot, and adjusting water levels is a whole lot easier with the volume indicator on the inside of the pot.

Ramyeon Pot, Kitchen Art

This ramyeon pot retains the heat of your noodles down to the very last mouthful. Safety during usage is ensured with automatic power shutoff in the event of a sudden rise in temperature. Its detachable base and body make it easy to wash.

Matcook Ramyeon Container, Easy & Free

This microwave-safe container allows for easy cooking. Just put water, noodles and contents of the seasoning packets into the container and heat it in a microwave oven. You can also use it to cook simple steamed dishes.

Gangsikdang Jeju Pork Ramyeon

This recipe, developed by the famous TV chef Baek Jong-won, was introduced on Korean reality travel show “Kang’s Kitchen.” Though it may be loaded with calories, this concoction certainly has a heavenly taste.

Ingredients Ramyeon, milk, cola, kimchi

Directions 1. Pour the milk into a pot and bring to boil. 2. While the milk is boiling, pour cola into another pot and bring to boil. 3. Leave the cola to cool and wait until it goes flat.4. Add kimchi and ramyeon noodles into the pot with milk and bring to a boil.5. After cooking the milk ramyeon, add the cooled cola and mix.

Ingredients Ramyeon, deep-fried meat, green onions, eggs, cabbage, chopped seasoning

Directions 1. In a bowl, put the onions, green onions and minced garlic in the ratio of 1:1:0.5. Add four small ladle scoops of cooking oil. Stir-fry. 2. Turn off the heat and mix two cups of red pepper powder into the mixture.3. When the ramyeon comes to a boil, add cabbage with a suitable amount of seasoning.4. Add deep-fried meat and beaten eggs to the cooked ramyeon. (To prepare the deep-fried meat, coat the meat already seasoned with cooking wine, pepper and salt with flour and fry, or use leftover sweet-and-sour pork.)

Terrific ToppingsThe best way to get more out of your Korean instant noodles (ramyeon)

is to add a few toppings. Here are a few timeless favorites.

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1980s - Golden age of ramyeon

This “golden age of ramyeon” saw the emergence of bestselling versions that have survived to the present day. Nongshim Neoguri first appeared in (1982), Yukgaejang (spicy beef and vegetable soup) in 1982, Anseong Tangmyeon in 1983, Chapagetti (instant black been noodles) and Paldo (then Korea Yakult) Bibim Myeon (mixed noodles) in 1984, Shin Ramyeon and Dosirak (lunchbox) in 1986, and Ottogi Jin Ramyeon in 1988. Chapagetti and Paldo Bibim Myeon have especially won a strong following thanks to their unique dry style, breaking the stereotype of soupy ramyeon.

Text KIM MIN JEONG

The Evolution of RamyeonRanked first worldwide in instant noodles consumption and now exporting its

own versions to more than 100 countries, Korea is considered a global ramyeon powerhouse. Here is how the beloved food has evolved over the years.

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1988 - Commercialization of cup ramyeon

In 1972, Samyang launched Korea’s first cup noodles but the product was a flop, as Koreans were not used to the unusual preparation method at the time. With more exposure through Seoul’s hosting of the 1986 Asian Games and the 1988 Summer Olympics, cup noodles soon enjoyed explosive popularity worldwide.

2015 – Golden age of Jjamppong

Ottogi Jin Jjambbong started a trend for noodles to be served in spicy seafood soup, differentiated by its thicker noodles. This was followed by new versions as seen through Samyang God Jjambbong, Nongshim Mat (tasty) Jjambbong and Paldo Bul (fire) Jjambbong. More new flavors came later like guljjamppong (spicy noodle soup with oysters) and bokkeum jjamppong (stir-fried spicy noodles).

Present micro trends in ramyeon

Consumers are always on the lookout for the next ramyeon star. Special seasonings like curry, tuna and French mustard have been introduced and low-calorie ramyeon showcased as diet food. Versions launched by small and medium-size companies using monikers like “Wicked Ramyeon” and “Knight of Ribs” are also gaining rapid popularity.

1990s - Launch of Shin Ramyeon

Shin Ramyeon cup noodles were offered to the first and business-class passengers of major airlines as a “special snack in the sky” for the privileged few. From the 2000s, budget carriers began offering the item as well. Today, more than 20 foreign carriers offer this variety as inflight fare.

2011 – Arrival of Kokomyeon

Kokomyeon was an instant hit soon after its recipe was featured by comedian Lee Kyung-kyu on a TV reality show. This dish also set a trend for white soup ramyeon in the second half of 2011. Copycats soon appeared like Samyang Nagasaki Jjamppong (spicy noodle soup with seafood, meat and vegetables), Ottogi Giseumyeon (noodles in chicken broth)and Nongshim Sari Gomtangmyeon (beef bone soup noodles).

2012 - Launch of Buldak Bokkeummyeon

Samyang’s Buldak Bokkeummyeon (fiery chicken fried noodles) proved to be a megahit in 2014 with sales over 100 million units. Videos of non-Koreans daring to eat the uber-spicy noodles began going viral around the world. The food’s popularity further rose with the release of new flavors like cheese, malatang, curry and carbonara. With exports growing more than 30 percent, Buldak Bokkeummyeon is the hottest Korean ramyeon.

1963 –Korea’s first ramyeon

The first ever ramyeon in the Korean market came from Samyang Foods, after the company imported a frying machine from Japan on Sept. 15, 1963. Samyang ramyeon was a chicken-flavored ramyeon that came with chicken-themed packaging. Most people back then were unfamiliar with the food and considered it a fad.

1996 - Spicy ramyeon emerges

Competitors of Nongshim Shin Ramyeon flooded the market with similar spicy products. Amongst the list were Ottogi Yeol (heat) Ramyeon in 1996, Samyang Hot Ramyeon and Korea Yakult Shocking Myeon in 1997, and Binggrae Maeunkong ramyeon (spicy bean noodles) 1998, but these could not overtake Nongshim’s champion seat. From the bountiful competitors list, only Yeol Ramyeon survives to this day.

1965 - Debut of Lotte Ramyeon

Lotte Food Company focused on developing doganitang (ox knee-flavored) ramyeon to cater to the Korean palate. Using the advertising slogan “Lotte ramyeon with kkakdugi (cubed radish kimchi),” Lotte’s product soon emerged as a quick meal or snack.

1975 - Launch of Nongshim Ramyeon

Lotte’s instant noodles were renamed Nongshim Ramyeon. With the advertising slogan “After you! No, after you!” Nongshim’s beef-flavored ramyeon became a hit soon after its launch, even beating the market leader Samyang.

2000s - Modisumers influence over ramyeon

Instead of following the standardized cooking recipes, “modisumers,” or customers who modify products to suit their tastes and needs, started to reinvent ramyeon for a more acquired taste. “Chapaguri,” which is a mix of Nongshim's Chapagetti and Neoguri, gained instant popularity, and many more recipes followed.

1998 - Diversification of ramyeon

Various experimental ramyeon brands were launched like Paldo Ketchup Ramyeon in 1998, Ottogi Chaesikmyeon (vegetarian noodles) in 1998, Nongshim Condition Ramyeon in 1998 and Bogeuljjigaemyeon (army stew noodles) in 1999; all of them eventually discontinued. Known as the “hangover ramyeon,” Condition Ramyeon contained alcohol-dissolving ingredients like asparagus, lingzhi mushrooms and kudzu flower extract.

Samyang Ramyeon Lotte Ramyeon Nongshim Ramyeon

Cup Ramyeon

Neoguri Ramyeon, Yukgaejang,Anseong Tangmyeon, Chapagetti,Shin Ramyeon, Dosirak, Paldo Bibim Myeon, Jin Ramyeon

Shin Ramyeon

Yeol RamyeonShocking Myeon

ChaesikmyeonCondition RamyeonBogeuljjigaemyeon

KokomyeonNagasaki JjamppongGiseumyeon

Jin JjambbongBul Jjambbong

Knight of RibsWicked Ramyeon

Buldak BokkeummyeonNeoguri & Chapagetti

1996 1998 2000 2011 2012 2015 NOW1963 1965 1975 1980 1988 1990

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Text KIM MIN JEONG

Brave New NoodleIf you are looking for instant noodle varieties, you will find plenty in Korea. These 13

new ramyeon varieties are bound to delight and leave you wanting more!

1 Knight of Ribs, Rosa Pacific PBThe liquid sauce for this ramyeon contains 18 percent real Korean rib meat paired with chewy potato and rice-based noodles. The sauce also tastes just like Korean braised short ribs. Production of this item was initially set at 5,000 packages (as a limited edition), but its explosive popularity prompted a comeback.

2 Gamjatangmyeon, NongshimThis instant ramyeon soup comes with a pork broth-flavored soup powder and a packet of liquid sauce as garnish. Flakes of potato, cabbage, bok choy and other dried vegetables resemble the ingredients of real gamjatang (pork backbone stew), and the flavor is close to properly made gamjatang. Top the noodles with sesame leaves and ground perilla seed powder, and it will seem strange to call them “instant.”

3 Dressing Noodle Oriental, NongshimThis dish can be enjoyed like a light salad. The Oriental dressing is made of balsamic vinegar, peanuts, sesame seeds and other flakes of flavor-bursting ingredients. The noodles can be topped as desired, and goes especially well with tomatoes, cabbage, paprica and chicken breast.

4 Lobmyeon, Rosa Pacific PBLobmyeon is known as “the emperor’s ramyeon” because of the prestigious image of lobster. Along with lobster extract, the texture of the shrimp and seafood flakes creates a dynamic culinary experience. The soup is similar in taste to Korean spicy seafood stew with a refreshingly spicy broth and chewy potato noodles that can easily stand alone as a meal.

5 Spicy Carbo Noodles, Heyroo PBThe cream cheese and fresh cream of carbonara sauce meets Korean red chili paste. This product cleverly combines the flavors of East and West. Undoubtedly spicy while maintaining a creamy flavor, this ramyeon is widely popular among lovers of spicy food.

6 Real Cheese Ramyeon, OttogiThe combination of powdered soup with liquid cheese sauce is the key to this ramyeon. Sourced from New Zealand, the cheese makes the spicy ramyeon soup mild and smooth. The chewy noodles also complement the cheese in texture and color. Finally, the ham, macaroni, carrots and broccoli included make this ramyeon a winner.

7 Mi-in Myeon, OurhomeThese konjac jelly noodles are low in calories and filling, while also great for maintaining digestive regularity. Many call it the “diet ramyeon” because it contains just 75 calories per serving. Brand's different flavors like the Vietnamese broth and spicy sauce are now joined the newest addition of “noodles in cold kimchi broth.”

8 Stir-fried Neoguri, NongshimA stir-fried version of Korea’s leading Neoguri Ramyeon is here. The soup is bursting with seafood flavor thanks to the mussels, squid and other seafood fried in chili oil. The thick noodles from the soup-based version remain the same. The six-ingredient soup mix, including mussel, meatballs, carrots and fishcake shaped like a raccoon (neoguri in Korean) adds a fun twist to this ramyeon.

9 Ssamgjang Ramyeon, SamyangRamyeon enthusiasts often add a spoon of the rich and spicy ssamjang (a mix of doenjang and gochujang) paste to their soup to enhance the flavor of instant noodles. Ssamjang Ramyeon is a new product from Samyang, the producer of the hit Hot Chicken Flavor Ramyeon. The company has the Midas touch, finding just the proper ratio of ssamjang paste to ramyeon soup powder that makes noodles more flavorful and appealing.

10 Spicy Nurungi Soup Noodles, PulmuoneDiners need not put their own rice in leftover ramyeon soup when eating Nurungi Soup Noodles. Nurungi is the sizzling scorched rice that goes perfectly with the roasted garlic and other vegetables included in the soup mix. Air dried noodles are used in this product instead of fried alternatives.

11 Wasabi Mayo Bokki, OttogiKorea’s ramyeon market leader Ottogi adds wasabi and mayonnaise in this ramyeon. Eaten with sauce instead of soup, these noodles are sure to energize taste buds with the piquant flavor of wasabi and the smoothness of mayonnaise. Because it is spicier than it looks, diners are advised to have a triangle gimbap (rice roll) or milk ready as a chaser.

12 Korean Gomtangmyeon, SamyangGomtang (beef bone soup) is a Korean soul food that warms the body from inside out. To recreate the taste of authentic gomtang broth, over 35 percent of the powdered soup is made from real dehydrated broth. Add dried green onions and meat flakes to perfect the soup’s refreshing flavor. Try it with kkakdugi (cubed radish kimchi) for a very realistic alternative to the real thing.

13 Wicked Ramyeon, Oktokki ProjectWicked Ramyeon is famous as a hangover cure in Korea. Its unique packaging highlights the variety of odd flavors, like “vongole,” “spicy rice cake in red sauce” and “cream cream.” Mixing the soup flavors to create customized ramyeon recipes is both fun and rewarding. Fun to look at, eat and play around with, this is a truly hip version of ramyeon.

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Super Simple, Instant Broth!The secret to cooking noodles lies with the broth. Here are several

ready-to-use broths sold in most supermarkets.

1 Sempio Noodle Sauce

This light brown broth is made by brewing ingredients like oak-smoked skipjack, domestically produced anchovy, kelp, shiitake mushrooms, green onions and shrimp in traditional Korean soy sauce. It is available in three flavors: anchovy kelp, buckwheat soba and katsuobushi.

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2 Ottogi Naengmyeon Broth

By simply adding noodles to naengmyeon (cold noodles) broth, where a layer of thin ice forms after being placed in the freezer, one can make tasty naengmyeon without the inconvenience of boiling beef brisket or soaking radish water kimchi.

3 CJ Sandrae Cheoeumbuteo Broth

Made with nine ingredients including anchovy, kelp, radish and cabbage, this broth can be used when making janchiguksu (banquet noodles) or any soup and stew. It comes in two flavors: anchovy kelp for Korean dishes and katsuo for Japanese dishes.

4 Seogang Samcheonpo Morning Anchovy Broth

Made with the best quality Samcheonpo anchovy, this broth is sold in sterilized packets. It conveniently comes in a large 1,000ml pack with no additional water needed.

7 Badaone Broth Barista

This broth is the brainchild of the famous Korean chef Leo Kang and Badaone, a company that processes dried marine products. The broth comes in four flavors: anchovy, crab, blowfish and herring.

5 Sempio Manneung Broth

In addition to anchovy, kelp, and green onions, this broth is made from a total of 11 ingredients, including herring and dried red shrimp. It also comes in a travel-friendly packet.

8 Ivenet Broth Secret

This block-type broth is made by freeze-drying ingredients like dried pollack, anchovies, baendaengi (large-eyed herring), seaweed and mushrooms. With no salt and seasoning added, it is suitable for children.

6 CJ Yoriui Sin Clear Soup

This broth powder is made from clams, dried pollacks, roasted small shrimps and bean sprouts. Conveniently packaged in serving sticks for one to two people, it can be added to any soup dish.

9 Himorn Rice Noodle Soup Base

This concentrated rice noodle broth makes cooking rice noodles much easier. Just add thin beef slices, bean sprouts and onion to create a superbly flavorful dish.

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Text KIM MIN JEONG Illustration PARK CHO HEE

Pyongan Province, Pyongyang Naengmyeon

Naengmyeon (cold noodles) used to be a winter dish cooked with the most flavorful buckwheat and well-preserved dongchimi (radish water kimchi). In Pyongan Province (now part of North Korea), cooked beef or pork are added to dongchimi during preservation, giving the broth a delightfully meaty taste. A more modern way of making broth involves mixing meat broth and dongchimi.

Pyongyang Naengmyeon

Jatguksu

Memilmak Guksu

Saengseon Guksu

Milguk Nakji Kalguksu

Andong Guksi

Pat Kalguksu

Jinju Naengmyeon

Gupoguksu

Kongguksu

Gogi guksu

South Chungcheong Province, Milguk Nakji Kalguksu

The usual way to enjoy milguk nakji kalguksu (octopus knife-cut noodles) is by placing a whole octopus into the pot of kalguksu (knife-cut noodles). The octopi are mainly caught from the mudflats on the western coast, which has huge tidal changes. May to July is the best time to eat this dish, when octopi are fresh and noodles are made using freshly milled flour.

North Jeolla Province, Pat Kalguksu

Pat kalguksu (red bean knife-cut noodles) is prepared by simmering red bean stock over steady low heat for a long time to create a thick stew. The taste of the noodles is enhanced by mixing flour with bean powder. Sugar is added to the noodles in Jeolla province while salt is added in the Gyeongsang province. Buan County in North Jeolla Province is known for its tasty red beans.

Gangwon Province, Memil makguksu

The word mak (immediately) is included in its name, and Memil makguksu can be derived as eating freshly made noodles immediately. Free of gluten, buckwheat noodles are fragile like spring buds and thus must be eaten immediately after cooking. Sesame oil and seeds are the usual garnishes and depending on the region of Gangwon Province, raw pollack or pheasant meat can also be added.

Busan, Gupoguksu

Unlike other noodle dishes, Gupoguksu (Gupo noodles) broth is served in a separate kettle. This dish, served with green chives, black seaweed flakes, sliced yellow radish and red sauce on white noodles, has a color resembling that of bibimbap (spicy mixed rice with vegetables). Add spicy pepper and pour the rich and savory anchovy broth over the noodles to eat it the Busan way.

South Jeolla Province, Kongguksu

The history of kongguksu (cold soybean noodles) can be traced back to the late 19th century, with a recipe found in the Joseon cookbook Siuijeonseo. Known as “meat from the field,” soybeans are acclaimed for their rich protein and fat content. Noodles Street in Damyang County, South Jeolla Province, is a must-vist spot for foodie travelers.

Gyeonggi Province, Jatguksu

Jatguksu (pine nut noodles) is a cold noodle delicacy of Gapyeong County, where 40 percent of Korea’s ground pine nuts are produced. The color of the pine nut-brewed broth is richer than that of kongguksu (cold soybean noodles). Known in Korea as the “elixir of life” or the “food of the gods,” pine nuts are not only added to the broth but to the dough. The noodles have a firm texture and a distinct flavor.

North Gyeongsang Province, Andong Guksi

Andong guksi (noodles) are generally classified as geonjin guksu (drained noodles), which was eaten by the yangban (noble class), or nureum guksu (pressed noodles), which was for the commoners. Initially eaten by farmers, geonjin guksu became a popular dish in the area after the nobility served it to guests in the summer.

Jeju Island, Gogi guksu

Sagol (pork leg bones) are used to brew rich broth on Jeju Island. Due to the richer fat and flesh content of Jeju’s famous black pork, a cleaner tasting broth is produced. Also known as dotgoegi guksu (pork noodles) in Jeju dialect, this dish was served to guests at weddings or funerals.

North Chungcheong Province, Saengseon Guksu

Saengseon guksu (fish noodles) was born when cooks added noodles to spicy fish soup cooked with fish caught in the rivers and streams of North Chungcheong Province near the Geum River. Similar to maeuntang (spicy fish stew), these noodles have an addictive spicy taste. This dish is popular in Saengseon Guksu Street in Okcheon county near the Geum River.

South Gyeongsang Province, Jinju Naengmyeon

Jinju naengmyeon (cold noodles) are native to Jinju, the produce capital of South Gyeongsang Province. This dish used to be a late-night snack for the rich served by hosts at the end of banquets. Made with buckwheat harvested near Mount Jiri and pollack and dried prawns from waters off Korea’s southern coast, these noodles are made with seafood broth with thin slices of yukjeon (pan-fried battered beef) as garnish.

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Atlas of FlavorMany noodle dishes can be created by using a wide variety of broth ingredients, noodles types and garnishes. Though Korea is a small country, its seas and mountainous terrain provide the nation’s provinces with bountiful ingredients with which to create noodle dishes, each with its own distinctive regional flavor. Come on a culinary tour and discover some of Korea's most-loved noodle dishes!

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good selections

신승반점 Shinseung Banjeom인천시 중구 차이나타운로44번길 31-3 신포우리만두 Shinpo Woori Mandu인천시 중구 제물량로166번길 29

Gangwon Province백촌막국수 Baekchon Makguksu강원도 고성군 토성면 백촌1길 10 함흥냉면옥 Hamheung Naengmyeonok강원도 속초시 청초호반로 299 동광식당 Donggwang Restaurant강원도 정선군 정선읍 녹송1길 27 강원 토속 식당 Gangwon Tosok Restaurant강원도 영월군 김삿갓면 영월동로 1121-16 성원식당 Seongweon Restaurant강원도 정선군 정선읍 5일장길 27-2 Gyeongsang Province박재숙 농가민박 Park Jae-sook Nongga Minbak경상북도 안동시 풍천면 광덕솔밭길 26-3 까꾸네 모리국수 Ggaggune Moriguksu경상북도 포항시 남구 구룡포읍 호미로 239-13 대동 할매국수 Daedong Halmaeguksu경상남도 김해시 대동면 동남로45번길 8 하연옥 Hayeonok경상남도 진주시 진주대로 1317-20 개금밀면 Gaegeum Wheat Noodles부산시 부산진구 가야대로482번길 9-4 춘하추동밀면 Choonha Choodong Milmyeon부산시 해운대구 해운대해변로265번길 13원조 우정식당 Wonjo Woojeong Restaurant경상남도 산청군 생초면 생초로 25-6 국수마을 Guksu Maeul대구시 북구 원대로19길 16 봉무할매묵집 Bongmu Halmae Mukjip대구시 동구 단산길 9-3

Jeolla Province보안식당 Boan Restaurant전라북도 정읍시 중앙로 95 복성루 Bokseongru전라북도 군산시 월명로 382 진우네집국수 Jinwoone Jip Guksu전라남도 담양군 담양읍 객사3길 32 금암소바 Geumam Soba전라북도 전주시 덕진구 기린대로 400-63

Chungcheong Province선광집 Seongwang Jip충청북도 옥천군 청산면 지전2길 14 기러기칼국수 Gireogi Kalguksu충청남도 예산군 오가면 윤봉길로 1854 저곡식당 Jeogok Restaurant충청남도 금산군 제원면 저곡리 262 숯골원냉면 Sutgolwon Naengmyeon대전시 유성구 신성로84번길 18

Jeju Island올래국수 Ollae Guksu제주도 제주시 귀아랑길 24 산방식당 Sanbang Restaurant제주도 서귀포시 대정읍 하모이삼로 62 옥돔식당 Okdom Restaurant제주도 서귀포시 대정읍 신영로36번길 62 해녀촌 Haenyeochon제주도 제주시 구좌읍 동복로 33 제주한면가 Jejuhanmyeonga제주도 제주시 조천읍 북선로 373

58P GLOBAL GOURMET

라스칼라 La Scala인천시 중구 영종해안남로321번길 186 파라다이스시티 남풍 Nampung부산시 해운대구 해운대해변로 296 파라다이스호텔 부산 신관 3층안 Ahn서울시 마포구 동교로 262-13

84P A MODERN SPIN

평화옥 Pyeonghwaok인천시 중구 공항로 272 인천공항 제2터미널 4층민스키친 Min’s Kitchen서울시 강남구 도산대로45길 10-4밍글스 Mingles서울시 강남구 선릉로 757

68P SEA, BREEZE AND NOODLES

제일국수공장 Jeil Noodle Factory주소 경상북도 포항시 남구 구룡포읍 호미로221번길 19-2

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Hanyue 2018 vol.8PARADISE’s Korean culture magazine

Edition No.8 Publishing Date April 22, 2018

Publisher Kim Ok-chulPublished by Ahn Graphics Ltd.

24, Yanghwaro 8-ga, Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, SeoulRegistration Number 마포, 바00153

Editor-in-Chief Ryu Mi-young (ryumy9319@gmail.com)/MIRYU NAMOOPlanning Ahn Sung-hyun / MIRYU NAMOO

Editors Ju Ga-eun, kim Min-jeong, Lee Eun-kyung, Nam Bo-raMarketing Strategist HAN ad

Translation ChinaTree www.chinatree.co.krTim Alper, D. Peter Kim, Sarah Kessler Jang, James Miller

Art 2X2 www.twoxtwo.co.krPrinting Garam Art

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