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nord ° licht The magazine of BLG LOGISTICS 15 years ° and going strong BLG South Africa

nord°licht - blg-logistics.com6becf779-cb9f-47f7-a409-bb3... · Präsident-Kennedy-Platz 1 28203 Bremen, Germany Editorial team Andreas Hoetzel (legally responsible for content)

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nord°lichtThe magazine of BLG LOGISTICS

15 years°and going strong BLG South Africa

02 | 03

Editorial°

South Africa – the Rainbow Nations in so many senses of the word –

cultural diversity, eleven different official languages, colourful his-

tory albeit tainted, and a vibrant optimistic view to the future.

A country of opportunity, with arguably the highest deposit of

natural resources and minerals in the world with the exception of

oil which South Africa does not have. Diamonds, gold, platinum,

aluminium, manganese, coal, uranium to name but a few.

Situated on the Southern Tip of a continent that could quite easily

be termed the Last Frontier – Africa and South Africa still intrigues

the world today as it did in yesteryear.

Somewhere positioned between a first world and a third world

country, between developed and a developing country, South

Africa resembles more the affluence of Europe, the United States,

Japan and other developed countries than a country from Africa.

Roads, infrastructure, the manufacturing industry, agriculture sur-

passes many countries on the African continent and compare

favourably with other far more developed countries.

So is it a bubble that is about to burst? Can South Africa progress

beyond the Mandela era, which was focused on nation building,

reconciliation and human rights? The answer is an emphatic yes.

With optimism we can face the future; provided certain fundamen-

tal matters are brought under control in this wonderful country we

call our own.

Issues such as crime, corruption, ease of doing business, a govern-

ment for the people by the people looking after the people, edu-

cation, health care consistent electricity supply, are all burning

issues that need to be addressed before real progress can be

attained.

The currency although one of the more stable currencies on the

continent remains volatile. The banking system in the country

remains one the nation can be proud of and has stood the test of

time through the Financial Crisis during 2007 until 2009 resulting

in South Africa encountering only limited effects of this crisis.

Sport still has a unifying influence on South Africa, who by nature

is a sport loving country which transcends all cultures irrespective

of race, colour or creed. A beautiful landscape, with its many

Game Parks and wild-life South Africa remains a tourists dream.

Beautiful high snow-capped mountain ranges of the Drakensburg

stand proud over the country with possibly the Fairest Cape in the

world welcoming visitors with the site of Old Table Mountain and

the wine route. As Fair as the Cape can be it could also unleash its

full might during winter months when it moves from the Fairest

Cape to the notorious Cape of Storms.

Trails such as the Otter trail in Tsitsikamma, visiting Cape Point

where two oceans meet; visiting the wine route, frequenting

our National Wildlife Parks leaves any a visitor envious of this not

being their country.

I am proudly South African and am proudly BLG, as BLG ventures

into this Land of Opportunity, this beautiful country, following

their clients with a dream of hopefully building a successful com-

pany. A hope and dream that has been fulfilled.

Starting with small beginnings in the friendly city of Port

Elizabeth in 2001, BLG South Africa has grown into a successful

small to medium size enterprise with offices in all major centers

of Cape Town, Port Elizabeth, East London, Durban and Gauteng.

Focusing primarily on the Automotive Industry, BLG South Africa

decided to also diversify into other spheres of logistics business

such as Rail Logistics, Project Management, Scrap Metal Operations,

Fruit Export Logistics, Transport and Warehousing company,

Ships Agency, Customs Clearing and Forwarding Activities to

name but a few.

It was this diversification that stood BLG in good stead during

the financial crisis of 2008 as we did not simply depend on any

one industry sector to carry us through this period and built

past successes year on year, in the process not only prospering

by organic growth but also procuring new business.

Quality remains a top priority in all activities being performed,

but none so great as safety which tops the list of all our areas of

focus. People being a company’s greatest asset is no different in

BLG South Africa.

BLG has over the past 15 years built up a reputable reputation

as a reliable, trustworthy company to do business with, their

word being their honour and bond, never back-trading on any

deal or transaction being struck by a simple shake of the hand.

BLG South Africa is here to stay, BLG South Africa is here to grow,

BLG South Africa will continue to be successful. One country,

one nation, one company – BLG Logistics of South Africa.

I am proudly South African and I am proudly BLG.

Shane GerberManaging Director BLG South Africa (Pty) Ltd.

Copyright: The articles contained in

the magazine are copyright-protected.

All rights reserved. Note: Editorial con-

tributions do not necessarily reflect the

views of the publisher.

Publishing information°

Publisher

Frank Dreeke

BLG LOGISTICS GROUP AG & Co. KG

Präsident-Kennedy-Platz 1

28203 Bremen, Germany

Editorial team

Andreas Hoetzel (legally responsible for content)

Julia Schmelter

Editorial consulting

rethink GmbH, Berlin

Design and realization

Focus Werbeagentur GmbH, Bremen

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Ten things° Only big figures. Little known facts about South Africa in

outline form.

Of violins and dreams …° The Bochabela String Orchestra. A social project and an artistic

success. In Europe, too.

The Cape of Good Wines°Grapevines on the move. The right climate and 356 years of experi-

ence – people all over the globe appreciate South African wines.

And in large quantities.

Quo vadis, geographic advantage?° Tricky situation? South Africa has been the heart of African auto-

mobile production for over 90 years. Now, however, there are some

functional disorders. About serious location-related problems.

Locations of BLG LOGISTICS°Three pillars of BLG LOGISTICS

and five cities of operations.

Peter Brook°With the African play “The Suit” the English master director served

a magical evening in the theater at the BLG-Forum in Bremen.

Ports and traders …° Very pretty. Different. Durban and Bremen are worlds apart. But

there is also a lot in common: urban life and natural beauty, for

example.

A day in the life …° Ranger Roger Harrison has to deal with really dangerous animals.

We accompanied him, with great fascination, through the

Shamwari National Park.

Interview° Frank Dreeke and Ambassador Makhenkesi Arnold Stofile on

Nelson Mandela and good developments.

Enjoyment at the end° No menu, little comfort, but a feeling for shrimp and genuine

enjoyment: Cubata, the Portuguese barbecue restaurant in

Port Elizabeth.

• COVER PHOTO | picture alliance / ZB Photographer: Ralf Hirschberger

04 | 05

Table of contents°

Durban

Johannesburg

Pretoria

East London

Shamwari National Park

Bloemfontein

Port Elizabeth

Cape Town

about South Afrika° didn’t know before

06 | 07

Ten things you probably

❶There are eleven official languages in South Africa.

In South Africa English is only the fourth most frequently

spoken language, Afrikaans holds third place.

South Africa is the country with the third highest biodiversity

in the world.

Around half of the South Africans are younger than 25.

South Africa is currently the world’s biggest exporter of

macadamia nuts.

1

2

3

4

5

90 percent of the precious metal platinum comes from South Africa.

Over a third of the railway lines on the entire African continent

can be found in South Africa.

There is a penguin colony in South Africa, over 2,500 penguins

currently live on Boulders Beach.

The deepest mine in the world is in South Africa.

The R62 highway is 850 kilometers long and considered to be

the longest wine route in the world.

6

7

8

9

10

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▶ Girls making music

08 | 09

Of violins and dreams°and great talentsThe Bochabela String Orchestra in Bloemfontein

Talent has nothing to do with origins. But origins determine

whether talents are cultivated. This is how Dr. Christine Rhomberg,

Managing Director of the Hilti Foundation, introduced the twenty-

eight-member Bochabela String Orchestra at the commencement

of its 2015 European tour at Bremen’s Town Hall. That African youths

have the opportunity to tour Europe as musicians is anything but a

matter of course. They owe this opportunity primarily to their tal-

ent, their ambition and their discipline, and to Peter Guy. And ulti-

mately as well to those whose financial contributions made this tour

possible.

The road to talent development leads along National Route 8 from

Bloemfontein to Lesotho, past stunted cows through the flat land-

scape. One exit (“Verkeerdevlei”) posted in Afrikaans, the next

(“Botshabelo”) in Tswana, the language most often spoken in this

region of the Free State Province in northern South Africa. Bumping

along in a beat-up 30-seat bus with worn-out shock absorbers. Two

primary schools in Thaba Nchu are the destination.

Dimpho, Lusanda, Boicheko, Kesaoleboga and 25 of their fellow

third- and fourth-grade pupils from Sankt Augustin Primary School

pile aboard. This scene is repeated every Monday and Thursday –

that’s when Peter Guy and his team come by to pick up the kids

for their two-hour violin lessons.

In the dark years of apartheid, the rule was: if you’re white you

play rugby and violin. If you’re black, you spend your time playing

soccer and singing. When the American Peter Guy turned up in

Bloemfontein in the early 1990s, he wanted to earn a living by

pursuing his passion – teaching young people to play the violin.

White kids already had their violin teachers, so Peter Guy ap-

proached the schools in the townships. At the start, this was a

musical project. But it was always clear that everyone was wel-

come. And that’s how it also became a social program.

Today, Peter Guy heads the music school in Bloemfontein, ap-

pointed by the Ministry for Sport, Art and Culture of the Free

State Province. He has permanent employees, a violin repair shop

and enough teaching rooms. He has international supporters,

although financing for the next idea is always precarious. Above

all, he has 400 students and five orchestras. The best one, the

Bochabela String Orchestra, has already launched several pro-

fessional careers.

Anyone who sees how respectfully Dimpho, Lusanda and Boicheko

open their violin cases, how reverently they take up their instru-

ments and with what concentration they pluck the strings quickly

understands that there is more going on here than just musical

education. “Of course, they’re learning more than merely to

▶ On the bus

try. I’d like to learn to become a tax consultant, in Bloemfontein

or better yet Cape Town, because there’s an exciting jazz scene

there. I love improvising and playing jazz. But I want to remain

connected with the Mangaung String Program and the Bochabela

Strings and play with them whenever I can. This project has given

me so much: hope, the opportunity to study, to get a good edu-

cation. And I’ve made friends I don’t want to lose. And if I ever

become a millionaire, then I’d like to give something back to the

project.

We are grateful to Dr. Christine Rhomberg, Managing Director of the Hilti

Foundation, who conducted and recorded this interview for us.

play the violin,” says Tsholofelo Sereeco, the African violin teacher. The greatest effect,

adds Peter Guy, is “increased self-confidence, a growing reliance on their own abilities.

Our violin students do better in school and are more focused in their lives.”

This is also what the Hilti Foundation found so worthy of support in this project: the

combination of musical education and social ambitions. “It reaches children who

otherwise have no opportunity to encounter music like this,” says Christine Rhomberg.

“Our experience teaches us that classical music makes children more attentive. It

teaches them structure and gives them a framework for their existence.”

Sometimes, however, European ideas of talent development clash with African tribal

culture. Once, a mother complained to Peter Guy because her son was receiving indi-

vidual instruction. For her, this was tantamount to a public declaration that her son

was unable to keep up. From the teachers’ perspective, the exact opposite was true:

they wanted to develop a special talent who would not have been able to achieve his

full potential if he only received group instruction. This is not an African concept, as

the group is significantly more important than individual advancement.

The young people from Bloemfontein who today play in the Bochabela String Or-

chestra no longer have any doubt that developing their individual talents was the

right thing. Four European tours and professional engagements in the major orches-

tras in Cape Town, Durban and Johannesburg are proof of this.

▶ Lindumuzi Mngoma

10 | 11

INTERVIEW WITH LINDUMUZI MNGOMADouble bass player in the Bochabela String Orchestra

How did your musical career start?When I was eight years old, Peter Guy came to our school with

a couple of musicians. They let us try out string instruments –

none of us had ever seen a violin or a cello, and we first thought

the violin was a tiny guitar. After this hour Peter Guy asked who

among us was interested in learning an instrument like this, and

I raised my hand. I started with the violin, changed to the cello

after three years, and after another two months Peter Guy came

up to me and told me I was a candidate for the double bass. At

first I was hesitant, but when he played “Pata Pata” for me

(that’s like our unofficial national anthem), I knew: that’s my

instrument. When I was 13, I was allowed to play with the

Bochabela Strings for the first time. That was a great moment.

Traveling to Europe with my friends, playing concerts together

with them there, that was an incredible experience.

Do you have any kind of a musical background?We have jazz singers in our family. And an uncle in Cape Town

plays the cello. So my father knew about this kind of instrument.

But none of us had ever played classical music; that was the

music of white people, while jazz was a lot nearer to us. That’s

why jazz is also my great passion.

What does the orchestra mean to you?We’re one big family, united by music. We learn from each other,

help each other and grow together. It’s not about having talent, it’s

about doing something passionately, because that’s how you get

really good at it. In any case, music has always been my ticket to a

totally new world.

And what are your plans?When I was 16, I wanted to study music. But I realized that I’d have

to leave South Africa to get a really good education. I don’t want

to do that. Home is where the heart is, and for me that’s my coun-

▶ Music instruction with Peter Guy

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The Dutch brought the first wine° Wine has been cultivated in South Africa since 1659

South Africa has been producing wine since February 2, 1659 –

that’s over 350 years! On this date Jan van Riebeeck, who led the

first Dutch settlers to South Africa seven years earlier, recorded

in his diary that he personally viewed the first wine production in

Constantia Valley near Cape Town. Later, French Huguenots also

brought European varieties of grapes to the country.

In the 18th and 19th centuries wines from South Africa were

among the most famous in the world. The French King Louis XVI,

for instance, is said to have stored several thousand bottles of

South African wine in his cellar.

From South Africa to the world° Wine as an export hit

Over half the production is expor-

ted. South Africa’s wine exports

have increased by almost 50 per-cent since 2011.

Top 3 export nations: 1. United Kingdom 91.2 million liters

2. Germany 77.5 million liters

3. Sweden 33 million liters

SOUTH AFRICA,Western Cape

SWEDEN

GERMANY

57%

Proportion

of exports

in relation

to total

production

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One 20-foot container can hold approximately

15,000 bottles of wine. So theoretically, an average

container ship could transport over 150 million bottles at once.❸The Cape of Good Wines°

The South African wine industrySouth Africa is not a classic wine country – but has become one of the world’s major wine producers. Our info graphic delivers the background.

Where the fine wines come from° The South African wine industry

1. Robertson

2. Stellenbosch

3. Paarl

4. Breedekloof

5. Swartland

(by numbers of varietals)

The best climatic conditions for wine-

growing prevail north and east of Cape Town, close to the Atlantic coast.

Consequently, this is where the largest

cultivation areas are.

Swartland

NORTHERN CAPE

WESTERN CAPE

Stellenbosch

PaarlBreedekloof

Robertson

Bounty of the vines° What South Africa produces in a year

South Africa currently ranks eighth among the world’s largest wine producers and produces more wine

per year than Germany. Much more white wine (569 million liters per year) is bottled than red wine (347

million liters).

million liters

glass of wine per week for every per-

son in Germany

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

M D M D F S S

8 9 10 11 12 13 14

15 16 17 18 19 20 21

22 23 24 25 26 27 28

29 30 31

billion glasses

billion bottles

Kapstadt

12 | 13

UNITED KINGDOM

And the carmaker is successful in the market. Daimler is more

than satisfied with the sales figures in South Africa for last year –

knowing full well that more than 70 percent of the production in

East London is produced for the Export Market, and that the

location in South Africa therefore has to assert itself while fac-

ing inter-group competition.

At the corporate headquarters in Detroit, a high-ranking man-

ager of the Ford Motor Company once spoke of Africa as the

“Last Frontier” of the automotive sector. “Last Frontier” mean-

ing the end of the settled world. That conjures up adventure,

gold fever. Like Ford, all well-known carmakers have therefore

set up operations in South Africa – as their base for the entire

African market.

The figures are impressive: around forty thousand people work

in the South African automotive industry, the sector earns at

least six percent of the gross domestic product. That makes it

one of the most important industrial sectors in the country. In

2014 alone, South Africans purchased approx. 440,000 cars.

The automotive industry has invested over EUR 1.7 billion in

South Africa in the past four years. More than a quarter of that

came from Volkswagen. The corporation produces the Polo in

its state-of-the-art factory in Uitenhage near Port Elizabeth.

Here, like at Mercedes-Benz in East London and BMW in Rosslyn,

around two thirds of the vehicles are built for export.

Only American carmaker Ford has been operating in South

Africa longer than the German companies and produced about ▶

East London, Rosslyn, Silverton, Uitenhage – a knowledge quiz in

Germany that wants to know in what foreign country these towns

are located will be hard put to find a champion – unless it looks at

the automobile industry. Then the answer is immediate. Daimler,

BMW, Ford and Volkswagen have production plants there, in South

Africa.

Daimler has been producing Mercedes cars there for almost 60

years now. Today the annual volume is approximately 100,000

vehicles. “The plant in East London performs outstanding work

and supplies top-quality cars, especially with regard to the suc-

cessful launch of the new C-Class in 2014,” says Andreas Kellermann,

head of Production Mercedes-Benz S-Class, E-Class and C-Class

and of the Daimler plant in Bremen.

South Africa’s automobile industry° Location advantage in jeopardy?

Automobile production on the RSA (Republic of South Africa) was considered to be a great success story. However, high logistics costs, strikes and power failures are jeopardizing the countries competitiveness.

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❹▶ Sand castle architecture on Durban’s beach

14 | 15

Port ElizabethVolkswagen and GM produce in

Port Elizabeth, Mercedes-Benz

produces in East London.

DurbanMAN and Toyota pro-

duce vehicles near the

coastal city of Durban.

JohannesburgMost of the automakers

are located in the

Pretoria-Johannesburg

region. NAMIBIA

BOTSWANA

SIMBABWE

SOUTH AFRICA LESOTHO

SWASILAND

Cape Town Port Elizabeth

East London

Durban

Pretoria

Johannesburg

Locations of BLG LOGISTICS

16 | 17

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MOZAMBIQUE

75,000 cars in 2014 alone. In an interview with TV station CNBC

Jeff Smith, the Sub-Sahara head of the company, recently stated:

“We have been in South Africa for 91 years. That’s a long, proud

history, however, when you have a good product, you need good

economic conditions too. Only then is the recipe right.” He thus

cautiously expressed doubt about South Africa as an automobile

production location.

There are clear reasons for the emerging problems in the automo-

tive industry: higher wage costs, frequent strikes, currency fluc-

tuations, the insecure power supply throughout the country and

extremely high logistics costs.

Nevertheless, things are going well at the moment. Production of

the Ford Ranger in Silverton is expanding. Sales in South Africa are

booming. Ford wants to set up SKD and CKD assembly plants in

other African countries. Nigeria is at the top of the list. The parts

would then primarily be supplied from South Africa.

Automakers officially make assurances that they will continue to

invest in South Africa. However, confidence in the location has

suffered. This has had consequences: corporate headquarters are

awarding contracts for new model lines to other locations. The

first suppliers are pulling out, such as the Automotive Leather

Company (ALC), which moved to Lesotho.

In the past South Africa was competitive mainly because of low

unit wage costs. In the last two and a half years, however, these

costs have risen by nearly a third. “The eight-week strike in 2013

and the four week strike last year had an enormous impact on

our sector,” says Alisea Chetty, spokeswoman for Ford South

Africa. Reliable wage settlements are one of the most impor-

tant factors for future investments, she adds. “The labor force

in South Africa is willing and able to work, however, strikes have

become are part of everyday life here,” points out Chetty.

Not only the Automobile Industry is affected by strikes, platinum

and gold mine operators have even bigger problems. The arbi-

tration authority CCMA therefore received more extensive rights

to intervene in lengthy wage disputes. By and large, however, it

remains a toothless tiger. “The decisions of the CCMA are not

legally binding. That’s a matter of concern,” says Matt Genrich,

spokesman for Volkswagen South Africa. “The industrial tribunals

then have to make the decisions, which further delays the pro-

cess.” Recently the metalworker trade union NUMSA threatened

with new strikes among the suppliers for the automotive sector ▶

▶ Employee at Ford plant, Pretoria

of the parties involved welcome the considerations being given to

partial privatization of power utility Eskom. The only thing, however,

is that the power supply will not improve in the short term.

BMW South Africa meanwhile depicts the energy crisis as an “una-

voidable reality”: “Every country and every sector has its chal-

lenges. We have to find alternative ways of guaranteeing that

production runs without interruption,” says Edward Makwana,

spokesman for BMW in South Africa. For this reason the company

is focusing on a “green” strategy at the plant in Rosslyn, i.e. on

biogas, solar energy and waste reduction. BMW now consumes 28

percent less power and 50 percent less water at its South African

location. Nevertheless, Eskom naturally remains the primary supplier.

Jeff Nemeth, President of the Ford Motor Company South Africa,

recounts what he said to Barack Obama on the latter’s visit to the

country in response to the question of what the biggest chal-

lenges are for Ford in Africa: “Rails, ports, shipments, actually the

entire infrastructure.” And then he reports on the calculations he

worked out for several South African ministers recently. “In Detroit

the competitiveness of the international Ford locations is, of

course, very meticulously compared to one another,” states

Nemeth. For Ranger production South Africa has to measure itself

against Thailand. “In South Africa the material costs are six per-

cent higher, the personnel costs 20 percent higher than in

Thailand. However, the logistics costs in South Africa are eight

times the costs that what is achieved in Thailand. Toyota has very

similar results in its comparison of the location costs between

South Africa and the Philippines.

For many people Transnet, the state-run South African corpora-

tion that owns the rail network, the railway company, all ports

and South African Airways, is evidence of how unerringly mono-

polistic structures lead to inefficiency. The carmakers in the

Johannesburg / Pretoria region complain that there are not enough

trains running to their plants to take the cars to the ports.

According to Transnet, this is due to congestion caused by an

excessive passenger volume. As Jeff Nemeth put it, Ford’s reply

was: “Perfect, we work in three shifts; bring the trains to the plant

between 2 and 5 o’clock in the morning when there’s no pas-

senger traffic on the rails, and what does Transnet answer: ‘We

don’t operate at night!’” BMW and Ford have therefore started ▶

▶ Power failure plan in local press, Johannesburg

18 | 19

Apparently there’s trouble ahead rather than an easing of the ten-

sion. In addition, the South African currency, the rand, is subject

to hefty fluctuations. Swings of up to twenty percent within a year

make planning security difficult for companies. The only remain-

ing option is financial security through the corporation itself or the

banks. Both are costly for the companies concerned.

“Future foreign investments in South Africa largely depend on the

prevalence of Labour strikes e.g. wage disputes, however, the provi-

sion of a constant power supply is even more important,” says

Shane Gerber, Managing Director of BLG Logistics in South Africa.

This is because the extremely unstable power supply is currently

the greatest problem for big business in the Republic. Eskom, the

state power utility, and “load shedding”, i.e. power cuts, are touchy

subjects in the country at the moment. The utility can no longer

cover South Africa’s energy needs and power outages, which are

now decreed on a daily basis, take place all over the country.

South Africa’s power stations have not been maintained for dec-

ades. Now some of them are so ailing that they have to be shut

down for months to carry out repairs and maintenance. This applies

especially to the energy-intensive automotive sector. Thus far, Volks-

wagen has not had any difficulties, but all other carmakers are

affected by the often unannounced power cuts. “We work

closely together with the authorities to cope with the risks of

power failures,” says Mercedes spokesman Matthias Krust. “Up

to now the coordination has been good, but a medium- or long-

term stabilization of the power supply is decisive for further

development of the economy.”

Unannounced power outages are a massive problem for highly

automated production lines since they cannot simply be turned

on again. In some cases it may take up to three hours until pro-

duction starts up again. Suppliers are the hardest hit by power

cuts. They have less influence on power utility Eskom and sus-

tain much more downtime. “It’s almost impossible to make up

for what we lose during a power failure. The entire sector suffers

from this,” says BLG South Africa head Gerber. “The worst thing is

that in spite of the warning signals, Eskom didn’t respond in time

and put off maintenance and now the country is paying the

price.”

In a government statement South Africa’s President Jacob Zuma

announced the construction of a new nuclear power plant. Many

▶ Painted cooling towers, Johannesburg

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▶ Employees at BMW plant Rosslyn, Pretoria

20 | 21

making initial passenger car shipments via the road to the signifi-

cantly more labuorious port of Maputo in Mozambique.

“I don’t know how long the headquarters in Munich, Wolfsburg,

Stuttgart and Detroit will continue to stand by and watch,” says

Matthias Boddenberg, Chief Executive of the German Chamber of

Industry and Commerce for Southern Africa. “The question of

which production site is the best will be decided in the next invita-

tion to tender for a new model. Why choose South Africa if there

are other more reliable locations?”

Up to now South Africa has been an important location for the

Auto Industry, particularly in strategic terms. “Compared to the

global market, the Automobile Industry here is small,” says

Volkswagen spokesman Matt Genrich. “The country produces only

one percent of the cars in the world.” All Automakers represented

in South Africa use the country as a springboard for the growing

markets in other parts of Africa. After all, the economies on this

continent are growing at an average annual rate of six to seven

percent.

In the medium term, however, Boddenberg expects that jobs in

the South African Automotive Industry will decline. “New pro-

duction centers have come into being in other parts of the

world. Competition is fierce. South Africa still has a slight edge

over other locations, but this edge is dwindling,” states

Boddenberg.

Jeff Nemeth from Ford puts it even more clearly. “I was in Detroit

in January and had to answer all these questions there: ‘How will

things go on with the power supply?’ – ‘What do the trade

unions want?’ – ‘What about the logistics costs?’”

Like all other carmakers in the country, Nemeth would like to sell

South Africa’s strengths. It hasn’t exactly been easy for him to

do so. “The people here have to finally realize how uncompeti-

tive they are.”

South Africa’s trading partners° Good business with the Chinese

South Africa is not only the most important nation on the African

continent economically, but also solidly integrated into the global

market: South Africa generates over half its gross domestic product

through imports and exports.

China is becoming an increasingly important trading partner. Last

year the Chinese became South Africa’s most important trading

partners by far.

Imports to South Africa Exports from South Africa

12,7 %

7,2 %5,8 %

15,3 %

10,3 %

7,8 %

Germany USASaudi Arabia JapanChina China

22 | 23

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BLG LOGISTICS OF SOUTH AFRICA HEAD OFFICE

In operation since: 2001

Clients: General Motors SA, GUMA, Tata Steel, THB, Orion Carbons

Number of employees: 185

Activities: VCDC-Operations, Yard Management, Door to Door Logistics, Ships Agency, Port Operations

Nice to know: Port Elizabeth now named the Nelson Mandela Bay, also known as per nickname the friendly

city or the windy city, is one of the largest cities in South Africa, situated in the Eastern Cape.

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Pre

tori

In operation since: 2001

Clients: Ford, Land Rover, BAW, Mazda, MW

Managing Director: Shane Gerber

Number of employees: 106

Activities: import and export, customs clearance, technical centers (PDI/VPC/VCDC), automotive

logistics (production related services), seaport logistics, freight forwarding, perishable

export solutions

Nice to know: Pretoria is one of the country’s three capital cities, serving as the executive (administrative)

and de facto national capital; the others are Cape Town, the legislative capital, and

Bloemfontein, the judicial capital.

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In operation since: 2001

Clients: Toyota, Mazda, Ford, Jaguar, Land Rover, Capespan, Metspan, Seaboard, Group five

Managing Director: Shane Gerber

Number of employees: 37

Activities: import and export, customs clearance, technical centers (PDI/VPC/ VCDC), automotive

logistics (production related services), seaport logistics, freight forwarding, perishable export

solutions.

Nice to know: Durban is the busiest container port in Africa.

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Cap

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° In operation since: 2001

Clients: Atlantis Foundries, Ford, Family Dollar, Perry Eliis, Bealls, Haverty, One Step up, Hidary,

I&J, Trink Cape Town, Burmeisters, Capespan

Managing Director: Shane Gerber

Number of employees: 7

Activities: import and export, customs clearance, technical centers (PDI/VPC/VCDC), automotive

logistics (production related services), seaport logistics, freight forwarding, perishable

export solutions

Nice to know: Cape Town was first developed by the Dutch East India Company as a victualing (supply)

station for Dutch ships sailing to East Africa, India, and the Far East. Jan van Riebeeck’s arrival

on 6 April 1652 established the first permanent European settlement in South Africa.

East

Lon

don

°In operation since: 2001

Clients: DaimlerChrysler, Mercedes-Benz

Managing Director: Shane Gerber

Number of employees: 33

Activities: customs clearing of export containers for Mercedes Benz, scrab and metal collection,

warehousing, baling and exporting.

Nice to know: East London is the second largest industrial center in the province. The motor industry is

the dominant employer. A major Daimler plant is located next to the harbor, manufacturing

Mercedes-Benz and other vehicles for the local market, as well as exporting to the United

States and Brazil.

28 | 29

❻The Suit°

He is the director for theater’s finest moments – the great

magician of the stage. Following his grandiose guest produc-

tion of “The Magic Flute” in 2011, Peter Brook made his second

guest appearance as part of the Bremen Music Festival at BLG-

Forum, which, for “The Suit”, proved once again to be a congen-

ial venue for this incomparable director and rewarded Bremen

with an unforgettable evening of great theater.

The play is simple; too simple for some. “The Suit” is based on

a short story by the black South African author Can Themba

(1924–1968), who prophesied to his wife that publication of

this book would change their life. How right he was! “The Suit”

was banned by South Africa’s apartheid regime shortly after its

publication; its author was forced into exile in Swaziland, where

he died alone in alcohol-drenched sorrow in 1968.

The story of “The Suit” portrays the longing of a relatively well-

established black middle class to lead a dignified and fulfilled

life within and in spite of South Africa’s apartheid system – a real

life in a false situation, so to speak. The play takes place in

Sophiatown, a township in Johannesburg. Philemon and Matilda

are married and, in the eyes of the husband, a happy couple.

Every morning, before setting off for the law office where he

works as an attorney, he brings his wonderful wife her breakfast

in bed. And in the evening she welcomes him home again with

open arms. The domestic happiness is his oasis in a realm of

despotism and injustice. But one day on the way to work, Philemon learns from a

friend, no longer able to keep the secret to himself, that every morning, when her

husband has left the house, Matilda is visited by a lover. The news which his friend

struggles to utter strikes Philemon like a thunderbolt. His life is ripped apart. Driven

as if by shock, he immediately turns on his heel and goes back home, creeps into

the house and finds his wife in flagranti with her lover. The lover – wearing only his

socks – flees from the situation through a window, leaving behind his neatly-hang-

ing suit as a symbolic placeholder for adultery – “The Suit”.

A terrible game of psychological warfare begins. The suit becomes the mark of Cain

for female misconduct, an ever-present memorial to adultery. Philemon compels his

wife to treat the suit like a guest in their daily home life and offer it every hospital-

ity. Thus the suit sits with them at the table at mealtimes, and a Sunday stroll

through the neighborhood becomes unthinkable without it. Philemon celebrates his

sadness in the jealous terror of the ever-present suit.

Interwoven with this human story and all-too-human elements, we hear about

reports on the life of blacks in the era of arbitrary rule and discrimination under

South Africa’s apartheid regime. We hear of the everyday harassments, of the dif-

ficulties for a black man trying to enter a white Christian church, of arbitrary police

killings, and of suicides by those made desperate by the circumstances around

them. But all these things are not conveyed with the fanfare of a political protest ▶

▶ German premiere in Bremen

▶ Peter Brook

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A row of chairs, a table and two rolling garment racks. These

scanty furnishings are the playthings with which the actors conjure

up a wide spectrum of different places, ranging from a cozy home

to a subway station. The Sophiatown setting thus comes to life

purely in the imagination of the viewers, conveyed by the voices

of the cast leading them sometimes here and sometimes there.

Four actors and three musicians, who also repeatedly mix actively

into the play, make up this evening’s ensemble. You don’t want to

miss a single sound, because every syllable, every tone – however

banal its content may seem – carries an emotion, an impulse of

the player. And so, scene by scene, a great round-dance unfolds in

which you can sense the entire panorama of sentiments in human

existence. We experience hope and desperation, love and lone-

liness, sorrow and joy on the margins of life and death.

The Suit°at BLG-Forum

30 | 31

play, but rather with the tiptoe footsteps of sorrow for the impos-

sibility of living a life in human dignity. In brief: ideal material for

Peter Brook, whose theater has always dispensed with all the

superficial pomp of an elaborately appointed stage, with every-

thing that shocks with its loudness and shrillness, because his

theater of “empty space” has always relied on just one thing, his

actors and the moving power of their performance.

By the theatrical sorrow of the actors we can measure the sad

condition of our world. That is true political theater, speaking in

the language of the people, with sensuality and sensitivity. And in

the ups and downs of the theatrical narrative we see the flickering

of what keeps a person alive in serious situations – hope.

In the same way that all great painters conceive their paintings in

the language of color alone, Peter Brook bases his work solely on

the many voices of his actors and the keyboard of human exist-

ence. The miracle that he creates is as simple as it is complex. The

focal point of his theater is always on people, with all of their fail-

ings, all of their capabilities, all of their desperation and all of their

hopes.

And finally, although it is difficult to single out one protagonist

from this great ensemble: Nonhlanhla Kheswa is the name of the

actress who plays Matilda. Her singing this evening even surpassed

her acting – with her voice she gave this glorious piece of theater

its deep, human note. She was the most moving contribution to a

brilliant evening of theater.

The focus must be°

the music and the people

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• AUTHOR: | CARSTEN AHRENS, Direktor der Weserburg | Director of Weserburg Museum of Modern Art, Bremen

▶ Nonhlanhla Kheswa

The location in a natural harbor on the Indian Ocean and the fact that the former British colonial rulers were actively

engaged in maritime trade made Durban the most important port in southern Africa. Sugar cane, cotton and fruits

were the main goods shipped; today they additionally include ore and steel products.

The place at which the medieval port used to be located in the center of Bremen is now an attraction for tourists

seeking to enjoy life on the river. The really big ships no longer sail up the Weser, but dock in Bremerhaven – the site

of Europe’s biggest automobile transshipment terminal and the longest continuous container quay on the continent,

5 kilometers long.

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One is older, the other larger. A largely dry, continental climate predominates in one,

while the other is bathed in moist, sub-tropical air. They have in common a location

by the sea and a significance that grew out of their role as a port and trading city.

What started in 1998 with a visit by German President Roman Herzog and Mayor

Henning Scherf and was continued one year later with the founding of the association

Partnership Bremen-Durban flowered into an official city partnership in 2011 with the

signing of a framework agreement. And it is one that is more than simply window

dressing – with commercial relations and church cooperation projects, with sports and

cultural projects and a promising development partnership for climate protection.

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Ports°and traders …Partner cities Durban and Bremen❼

32 | 33

Durban is a special place. Hot and humid. Lined with beaches. Decorated with palms and guarded by lions. Shaped by

Indians – Mahatma Gandhi being the most famous of them.

Bremen’s most famous animals are the four Town Musicians. Donkey, dog, cat and rooster. They can be found at the his-

toric Market Square, next to the 600-year-old Town Hall, which is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Back in the Middle

Ages the city was an important member of the Hanseatic League. Down to today Bremen has been characterized by trade

and shipping. It’s the home of Mercedes’ second largest production plant in the world and numbers among the major

logistics locations in Germany.

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The Germans have a painful memory of Durban’s Moses Mabhida Stadium. This is where Spain defeated the

German team 1:0 in the 2010 FIFA World Cup soccer semifinals. By contrast, Durban has very fond memo-

ries of Marco Bode. The former German national soccer player and current Supervisory Board Chairman of

the Bundesliga team Werder Bremen is a co-founder of the One Nation Cup, a worldwide soccer tourna-

ment for under-15 boys’ and girls’ teams. First held prior to the World Cup in Germany in 2006, it came to

Durban in 2008. “That was a fantastic tournament,” recalls Marco Bode, “pleasant people and a very excit-

ing port city.”

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The 25,000 hectare Shamwari National Park is located in Eastern Cape Province between East London and Port Elizabeth. It contains African savannah, countless thorn bushes, untold termite mounds and 25 kilometers of rivers. Home to all creatures great and small in southern Africa.

Lions, rhinos, buffalo, leopards, cheetahs, elephants and giraffes. Zebras, crows, waterbuck, springbok, warthogs, kudus,

jackals, green monkeys and antelopes. And, of course, the most dangerous animals on the African continent. After all,

no other species has as many human lives on its conscience as the hippopotamus. We met up with Roger Harrison, who

is 43 and has been a ranger at the Shamwari National Park for 18 years.

A day in the life …°of ranger Roger Harrison

T6.45 am

It’s getting light, but the sun is not out. The thick clouds are a

blessing for us. The animals are still active and do not withdraw

into the protection of the shade. Big herds of antelopes, spring-

bok and zebras move together in the reserve in one direction.

Roger says their body language suggests they are very nervous.

He suspects the two male cheetahs are lurking nearby. ▶

s5.30 am

Every morning, throughout the year. The guests for today's game

drive meet at the Victorian style Shamwari main building. Time for

tea.

g6.00 am

The Toyota Land Cruiser is ready to go. Open, but covered. Side

panels crash-proof. Roger checks the gun. Elephant ammunition,

but he has never used it.

36 | 37

▶ Ranger Roger Harrison, Shamwari-Nationalpark

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M01.10 pm

Two rhinos again. A mother and calf fighting. Roger interprets for

us. The little one, which is actually pretty big, wants to nurse from

its mother. But the mother rejects it, making it clear to her off-

spring that it’s time to stand on its own four feet. The horn of the

adult white rhinoceros is powerful. Roger estimates it weighs 20

kilos. A kilogram currently fetches 50,000 US dollars on the black

market. This means the trusting, unsuspecting female rhino is walk-

ing around with a price of 1 million dollars on her head. Roger

believes that there will be no rhinos left in Africa in 20 years if the

Asians don’t stop their madness.

M01.13 pm – e04.00 pm

A quick hello to the security people. We wouldn't have noticed

them. The rhinos are being watched over. 24 hours a day. The

elephants, too. There have been no incidents of poaching in the

Shamwari Reserve in recent years. There’s something else special

the rangers have to offer: a walk through the bush, followed by a

sunset barbecue. This is the end of Roger's working day.

M11.48 am

We drive slowly though an avenue of thorn bushes. Suddenly Roger

stops. To the left of us, about five meters away, is a grazing bull

elephant. He is impressively big. "Still young," says Roger, "maybe 25

to 30 years old." He says they don't reach full size until 45. This is

the first animal who does not accept us as part of its natural envi-

ronment. He’s coming towards us. Looking for a fight. It’s definitely

nerve-racking. But instead of driving away, Roger steers towards him

and snarls at him. "You need to confront him," says the ranger,

"otherwise, they think it’s a game, think they are superior and tip

the car over." Roger's ploy pays off. The bull elephant wanders away.

M12.48 pm

We cross a river. Roger stops on the bridge and points to a spot on

the bank. Bubbles under a bush. A hippopotamus. The animal that

even the most experienced ranger is careful of. Because no matter

what happens, it always attacks first without thinking and only with-

draws later.

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M7.20 am

In the middle of a large herd of grazing zebras. And, indeed, all the

animals have their very own pattern of stripes, almost like a bar-

code. This is how the foals recognize their mothers.

v8.30 am

There they are, two young lionesses. Ten meters away from one

another, both breathing heavily. "They have just been chasing wart-

hogs around," says Roger. And adds: "If you want to watch animals,

lions are the most boring. They sleep for 18 hours a day."

j9.00 am

A short break at the Shamwari main building. Time for breakfast.

Breakfast with a view.

M11.03 am

We are on a rise in the Land Cruiser and can see nothing. But

Roger can. He suddenly and very frantically grabs his binoculars,

putting the car into gear at the same time. He is clearly excited

as he explains it’s something he has seen only very rarely in his

eighteen years as a ranger. Two rhinos mating. We are skeptical,

surely they will be long finished by the time we get there. Not at

all, explains Roger, that’s the problem. The mating can take up to

an hour, hence the erroneous belief by men in Asia that a small

extract from the animal's horn could give them similar potency.

M11.17 am

The male white rhinoceros weighs two tons. This weight largely

rests on the female rhino. She is still relatively young, says Roger,

perhaps totally inexperienced when it comes to what is happen-

ing in front of our eyes. She takes a couple of cautious steps

forward, with him on her back and his two back legs on the

ground following her. "This is the future for our rhinos," explains

Roger happily, "a calf will be born in 22 months."

MAS: Since the great change in 1994, we’ve not only held elections

every four to five years, but we have also developed a participatory

democracy in South Africa. With respect to democratic social struc-

tures, South Africa is certainly the most highly developed nation in

Africa. Financially as well, South Africa is extremely stable; it is one

of the countries in the world that affords the greatest protection for

foreign investments. I can’t say where Germany stands, but Germany

is certainly ranked far behind us.

FD: That’s true. I believe all of Europe lags far behind South Africa.

This has mainly to do with the crisis in Europe.

MAS: Yes, and I think this is important because we as a developing

nation are dependent on international investment initiatives, so

we want to offer our investors security. This is a huge responsibility

and I’m glad that we can actually do this. On the macroeconomic

level we’re in very good shape. On the microeconomic level, how-

ever, we have problems. We’re active in such important under-

takings as housing construction, supplying clean water and electri-

fication of villages, but there is still work to do. I remember when

President Mandela and I visited several villages during the 1994

election campaign. He told the farmers: “We’ll bring electricity

and clean water to the villages.” They didn’t believe him, and

said, “This old man was in prison too long. Has there ever been

electricity in the villages?” But it’s reality, not in all villages yet, but

in most of them. It’s been a hard struggle, and it’s still not over.

We’ve built more homes in South Africa in the last 20 years than

in the 300 years before. But there are still gaps. And we need

to create more employment opportunities. Otherwise, poverty

and unemployment will endanger our social stability. We need

to improve the quality of our education. We need to gear our

education to qualifications and innovation. We still have great

challenges to overcome.

▶ Botschafter Makhenkesi Arnold Stofile (li.) und Frank Dreeke (re.)▶ Ambassador Makhenkesi Arnold Stofile (l.) and Frank Dreeke (r.)

40 | 41•

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Interview° Frank Dreeke – AmbassadorMakhenkesi Arnold Stofile

FD: When I look at South Africa today, I see one of the most

stable democracies and one of the most economically success-

ful countries in Africa. Looking back over the last 20 years, it

seems to me that South Africa has made great strides in every

respect.

FD: From the outside, we see South Africa as the motor of the

African continent. So we in Europe wonder why South Africa

doesn’t simply assume leadership for the whole continent.

MAS: That’s a philosophical question that we’ve been discussing

since 1994. President Mandela shared the Europeans’ view that

South Africa is politically and economically strong, so we have to

move Africa in this direction. However, the majority of South Africa’s

leadership was of the opinion that we shouldn’t do this. You need

to consider that at that time we were the youngest democracy.

South Africa doesn’t want to be the Big Brother of the African con-

tinent.

FD: China is South Africa’s most important trading partner

today. Did China do something entirely different from the

Europeans in political and economic terms, or does China simply

have more money and is thus more attractive for the South

African economy?

MAS: You need to understand that China and South Africa – not

today’s South Africa but China and the African National Congress,

the governing party – have been friends for decades. China was

the first country in the world to train our freedom fighters. China

under Mao Tse Tung was generous; China trained young people

and provided logistics and financing. So we and China have trave-

led a long road together. China gave us development programs

for our veterans who could no longer fight in the wars, and pro-

vided education to the young people who had left South Africa

without a school certificate. Back then, most of the schools were

made of clay and wood. China and Japan spent a lot of money to

build the brick schools that we have today.

You also need to understand that during apartheid the Chinese

were discriminated against just as much as we were. They were

also victims of apartheid. If I recall correctly, our parliament and

our government determined in 1997/1998 that the Chinese were

one of the disadvantaged groups who should receive preferential

treatment in business. They are also among those for whom special

programs exist as part of our antidiscrimination measures.

FD: Let’s talk a little about economic issues. We as a European

enterprise like to do business with South Africa, and we’re also

very active in South Africa. South Africa is the heart of automo-

bile production on the African continent. That’s good, that’s

positive, but we hear from carmakers that South Africa is no

longer competitive with terms of its infrastructure and logistics

costs. State monopolies like Transnet or power utility Eskom

have become a drag on economic development because they

act much too slowly.

MAS: I agree with you that South Africa is the center of the auto-

motive industry on the African continent. That’s why we encour-

age our ministers to come to Germany so they can see how

logistics is done here. I also agree that our infrastructure devel-

opment is proceeding extremely slowly. I don’t know how we

can accelerate that. As I see it, we’re bound by democratic

processes, so we have to follow all legally required steps. The

premier of my home province once told me, “You know, when

I think about the fact that our average bridge is 50 years old, I

can’t sleep at night.” But he can’t simply wake up and build a

bridge; he has to follow the entire procedure, with requests for

tenders, environmental studies and all the rest. That’s just

democracy. Then we also have to wait to see how the courts

decide and what comes next. That takes up a lot of our time.

But I also believe that we’ll find shortcuts, as in the case of the

soccer stadiums for the World Cup. We passed special laws for

that so that we didn’t have to follow every silly little regulation.

About power supply: Last night I spoke with my wife. She was at

home. I think it was around 7:30 pm in Germany, so 8:30 in South

Africa. I asked her, “What are you doing?” She answered, “Well,

I’m sleeping because the power’s out.” You know, they shut off

the power. In Addis, where we live, the power is switched on at

four in the morning and shut off at four in the afternoon. In other

words, there is no reliable power supply. Eskom was created as

a monopoly and I suspect that was also a very good idea at the

time, but today it doesn’t work anymore at all. Eskom consumes

a lot of public money because the company is subsidized by the

government.

FD: For over a year now, South Africa has had to carry on with-

out Nelson Mandela. I consider him one of the most impres-

sive personalities of the last centuries. Do you think there’s a

big difference between South Africa with and without Nelson

Mandela, or is everything built on the achievements of this

one man?

MAS: That’s a good question. Let’s put it this way: When we

came to power in 1994, I was Nelson Mandela’s treasurer in the

governing party. So I know a little about things from the inside.

And I can tell you today that even back in 1994 – or even 1993

– Thabo Mbeki was the one who determined the government

line. He headed the discussions on this. Naturally he exercised

his leadership role within the context of the goals we were all

committed to. Besides Nelson Mandela, there was a very large

group of leaders who also had a defining influence. When

Madiba became President of South Africa, he became the con-

science of the nation, both black and white, yes, literally black

and white. You should hear the way many white South Africans

say that, he was truly the father of our nation in this process. But

Madiba is not only the father of our nation, he is the father ▶

42 | 43 •

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▶ The Freedom Charter written on the wall of the Palace of Justice, Pretoria

▶ Ambassador Makhenkesi Arnold Stofile

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of the whole world, the leader of the entire society, he’s not lim-

ited to South Africa, his impact extends far beyond. Now he is no

more. Many people believed, and I don’t know why, but they be-

lieved that chaos would break out after his death and everything

would break down, but that didn’t happen. You know, we come

out of a truly horrible, terrible past. I still have nightmares. You

wake up thinking that there are people there who want to murder

you. South Africa is not healed of these things. A great part of our

healing process is still ahead of us. Well, we see that some of these

wounds are opening up, we see movement forward, but we also

see that certain elements of South African society are again mov-

ing in the direction of polarization. But South Africa’s progress is

fraught with many problems. One of the greatest problems is cor-

ruption. Our former finance minister always said that corruption is

like tango, it takes two: not just the corrupt minister or depart-

ment head, but also the corrupt members of civil society or cor-

rupt businesses. We need to work on that and I’m happy that we

are working on it. We have an extremely active Public Protector,

Thuli Madonsela. She’s a star. Last year she received an award, a

medal, here in Berlin honoring her commitment to justice and

human rights. She’s fantastic and proceeds entirely impartially. If

she has to investigate the President on account of the renovation

of his private home, then she does it. If she has to investigate his

chief of staff, she does it. It’s true, South Africa lost a great

leader in Madiba, South Africa misses him, but his spirit …

FD: … is still very much alive.

Mr. Ambassador, you will be leaving political Berlin at the

end of the year. Will you go back into politics when you

return to South Africa?

MAS: No, I won’t. I’m 70 years and some months old now. When

I was on the executive committee of the ANC, I advocated that

everyone over 70 should make way for the younger generation. I

be-lieve that my generation’s mission was to fight and defeat

apartheid. We have faced and overcome this trial with flying

colors; but our generation cannot – as we expected – build the

democratic, peaceful South Africa without racial barriers we

always dreamed about. That is the next generation’s mission. I

won’t assume any further political office, but I will do volunteer

work locally and in our province. I still want to contribute to the

success of our joint endeavor.

FD: I wish you strength and success in that. And thank you

very much for this interview.

was born in Adelaide, South Africa on December 7, 1944 as one of seven children in a farm worker family in rural South Africa. He

later studied theology and in 2001 earned a doctorate in philosophy from Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University. Makhenkesi A.

Stofile was a lecturer at Fort Hare University, became Premier of Eastern Cape Province and in 2010 played a key role in the organi-

zation of the World Cup soccer tournament in his country as Minister of Sport. Over the course of his life he was imprisoned many

times for his political activism. From 1994 to 1997 he was parliamentary floor leader and Finance Director of the African National

Congress (ANC) under President Nelson Rolihlahla Mandela. Makhenkesi A. Stofile has been Ambassador of the Republic of South

Africa in Berlin since 2011. A married father of two daughters and a son, now deceased, Makhenkesi A. Stofile speaks six languages

and additionally reads Hebrew, Greek and Latin.

Makhenkesi Arnold°Stofile

46 | 47

▶ Cubata, Port Elizabeth

❿ Once it was clear where the new stadium for the World Cup was to be built in Port Elizabeth, José Nobrega, a cheerful man of mixed Portuguese and Angolan heritage, just wanted to be in the right place at the right time. In 2005 he opened a 20-square-meter restaurant right across

from the future construction site, a tiny shack with the Angolan-

Portuguese name “Cubata”. But he never got around to serving

the construction workers. His place was overrun from day one, and

he added an additional 120 square meters to Cubata at the first

opportunity. The furniture: long wooden tables, equally long wooden

benches, Spartan. Menu: none. Selection: minimal.

On offer: chicken wings, spare ribs and shrimp. If it occurs to you

to order something like French fries on the side, it’s your own fault.

And if you don’t eat with your fingers, you don’t “get” Cubata.

Now José Nobrega sells four to five tons of spare ribs every month,

and up to 2,000 shrimp per day. Numerous guests are willing to

swear that you won’t find better anywhere else.

His secret: firstly, good ingredients. He buys his shrimp fresh-

caught in Mozambique. First-class white meat. Secondly, the

broth in which they’re boiled, in which butter and lime are essen-

tial. The other ingredients are, indeed, a secret. And thirdly, says

José, “You need to understand the shrimp, you need to have a

feeling for when they open up and suck up the broth. The secret

is timing.”

CUBATA Cnr Stebonheath and Arthur Street, Sydenham 6001, Port Elizabeth, Südafrika. Tel: +27 41 487 3737

Cubata° in Port Elizabeth

▶ José Nobrega and wife

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