North by Gunnar Karl Gíslason and Jody Eddy, excerpt and recipe

8/11/2019 North by Gunnar Karl Gslason and Jody Eddy, excerpt and recipe

1/9


2/9
https://itunes.apple.com/us/book/north/id841786884?mt=11http://www.indiebound.org/book/9781607744986?aff=randomhouse1https://www.google.com/search?tbo=p&tbm=bks&q=isbn:9781607744986&gws_rd=sslhttp://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/north-gunnar-gislason/1117737104?ean=9781607744986&itm=1&usri=9781607744986http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607744988/


3/9

CONTENTS

foreword by ren redzepi vii

in gratitude ix

introduction 1

a note on the r ecipes 5

The Bacalao Producer 9

The Arctic Char Smoker 37

The Rugbraud Baker 59

The Fisherman 81

The Seabird Egg Collector 111

The Barley Farmer 131

The Dairy Farmer 157

The Birch and Mushroom Forager 179

The Sheep Farmer 209

The Hardfiskur Producer 235

The Salt Maker 253

The Goat Farmer 279The Blue Mussel and Dulse Harvester 303

ingredients for an icelandic pantry 333

index 336


4/9


5/9

TheArcticCharSmoker

CURED ARCTIC CHAR,

BUTTERED POTATOES,

MIXED SALAD, and

SMOKED FRESH CHEESESERVES 4 PREPARATION TIME ABOUT 1 HOUR PLUS 12 HOURS TO REFRIGERATE

THE CHEESE

Gunnar is an ardent meat and fish smoker, but he also enjoys smoking more unexpected

items, such as cheese. He infuses it ever so lightly with smokiness by using a smoke gun

to pipe wood smoke into it. Its a simple technique that works well with virtually anything

you want to permeate with smoke, such as vegetables, sauces, or even ice creams, since the

smoke carries very little heat. You can also play around with the smoking material used. For

example, dried tree leaves of nearly any species or hay are good choices.

Dont be intimidated by the idea of making cheese at home. Its not as daunting as it

sounds, and once you are comfortable with the technique, its fun to mention to your guests

that you made the cheese yourself. Plus, the process results in whey, which is also used

here. The smoked cheese caramelizes nicely during the smoking process, which also makes

it a fun and unexpected topping for ice cream. Like many Nordic chefs, Gunnar frequently

cures his own fish, which, when paired with the fresh salad and the light texture of the

cheese, makes for a lovely dish on a warm summers day.

SMOKED FRESH CHEESE

12/3cups (400 ml) milk

2 tablespoons plus

2 teaspoons cider vinegar,

plus more as needed

Salt

Rapeseed oil, for seasoning

AR CT IC CH AR

11/4pounds (550 g) arctic char

or salmon fillet (see notes,

page 53)

Scant 1/2cup (100 g) firmlypacked light brown sugar

1/2cup (80 g) rock salt

(see notes, page 53)

23/4ounces (80 g) mixed

greens (such as birch tree

leaves, dill, and angelica

sprouts), finely chopped

2 tablespoons rapeseed oil

BUTTERED POTATOES

7 ounces (200 g) Yukon gold

potatoes, unpeeled

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Sea salt

MIXED SALAD

8 ounces (230 g) mixed

lettuce and herb varieties that

strike your fancy

Rapeseed oil, for dressing

Salt

Cider vinegar, for seasoning

Arctic char roe or salmon roe,

for garnish

Rapeseed oil, for garnish

To make the smoked cheese, put the milk and vinegar in a small saucepan, stir to mix, and

place over low heat. Heat to 189F (87C) and maintain the mixture at this temperature

for about 5 minutes. The milk will separate completely into clumps of white curds and

watery whey. Line a fine-mesh sieve with cheesecloth and place over a bowl. Pour the

contents of the pan into the sieve and refrigerate for 12 hours.

| continued


6/9

TheArcticCharSmoker

Reserve the solids in the sieve and transfer the whey to a small, heavy saucepan. Place

the pan over low heat and leave undisturbed for about 30 minutes, until the liquid begins

to caramelize. Remove from the heat, pour into a heatproof bowl, and let cool to room

temperature. As the liquid cools, it will stiffen to the texture of chocolate. Break it apartand reserve to use as a garnish.

Transfer the solids from the sieve to a hotel pan or deep baking pan and seal tightly with

plastic wrap. Fill a smoke gun with wood chips and ignite the gun with a match. Make a

small hole in the plastic wrap covering the pan, insert the nozzle of the gun through the

hole, and smoke the cheese for 10 minutes. Alternatively, smoke the cheese in a wood

chipfueled homemade (see page 191) or store-bought kitchen smoker. Season the cheese

with salt and drizzle with oil and vinegar to taste, then crumble to the consistency of dry

ricotta.

To make the artic char, remove any skin and fat from the fish. Combine the sugar, rock

salt, and greens in a bowl. Evenly distribute half of the sugar mixture in a shallow metalcontainer just large enough to accommodate the char. Place the fish on top and cover

it with the remaining curing mixture. Let stand at room temperature for 22 minutes.

Remove the fish from the curing mixture and discard the mixture.

Preheat an immersion circulator to 127F (53C). Cut the char into 4 equal pieces, place

the pieces and the oil in a vacuum bag, and seal on the medium setting. Cook in the circu-

lator for 10 minutes. Remove the bag from the circulator, remove the fish from the bag, and

keep warm. Alternatively, preheat the oven to 300F (150C) and line a baking sheet with

parchment paper. Cut the char into 4 equal portions, rub (or spray) the bottom of each por-

tion with rapeseed oil, and arrange on the prepared pan. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until

medium-rare.To make the potatoes, boil the potates in salted water to cover for 18 to 20 minutes, until

just tender. Drain the potatoes, let cool just until they can be handled, and cut into disks1/4inch (6 mm) thick. Melt the butter in a saut pan over medium heat, add the potatoes,

and saut for 3 to 5 minutes, until golden brown on both sides. Season with sea salt.

To make the mixed salad, toss together the lettuce and herbs with just enough oil to make

them glisten. Season with salt and vinegar.

To serve, arrange the artic char, potatoes, and salad on a plate and garnish with the roe,

the smoked cheese, the caramelized whey, and the oil.

NOTES

1. If your fish comes complete

with skin, after you remove

it, save it, cut it into bite-sizepieces, and fry it up for a crunchy

topping for the salad.

2. Rock salt is the workhorse of

salts, ideal for curing fish, making

salt crusts, and other culinary

uses. It also has nonculinary uses,

so look for food-grade rock salt

to avoid rock salt that has been

treated with chemicals.

| Cured Arctic Char, Buttered Potatoes, Mixed Salad, and Smoked Fresh Cheese, continued


7/9


8/9

Copyright 2014 by Gunnar Karl Gslason and Jody Eddy

Foreword copyright 2014 by Ren Redzepi

Photographs copyright 2014 by Evan Sung

All rights reserved.

Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press,

an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group,

a division of Random House LLC,

a Penguin Random House Company, New York.

www.crownpublishing.com

www.tenspeed.com

Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon

are registered trademarks of Random House LLC

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Gslason, Gunnar Karl.

North : the new Nordic cuisine of Iceland / Gunnar Karl

Gslason and Jody Eddy. First edition.

pages cm

1. Cooking, Icelandic. I. Eddy, Jody. II. Title.

TX723.5.I2G57 2014

641.594912dc23

2014003525

Hardcover ISBN: 978-1-60774-498-6

eBook ISBN: 978-1-60774-499-3

Printed in China

Design by Toni Tajima

Cover and jacket design by Emma Campion and Toni Tajima

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

First Edition


9/9
https://itunes.apple.com/us/book/north/id841786884?mt=11http://www.indiebound.org/book/9781607744986?aff=randomhouse1https://www.google.com/search?tbo=p&tbm=bks&q=isbn:9781607744986&gws_rd=sslhttp://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/north-gunnar-gislason/1117737104?ean=9781607744986&itm=1&usri=9781607744986http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607744988/

Documents

North by Gunnar Karl Gíslason and Jody Eddy, excerpt and recipe