NORTHERN EUROPE - s3. · PDF fileM A DEIR A a I SL A ND 9 0 9 MIN ( by 90 MI ... HR 90 MI N 2 H RS 75 MI N 3 0 MI N 0 M N Barcelona Sintra Madrid Burgos IBIZA MALL ORCA MENORC A Palma

NORTHERN EUROPE& RUSSIA2016

Andrew Harper’s

Netherlands & Belgium

Touring Map 2

NETHERLANDS

Introduction 3

Amsterdam 4

The Hague 9

Vreeland 10

Zeeland 11

Maastricht Area 11

BELGIUM

Introduction 12

Antwerp 13

Bruges 14

Brussels 16

Ardennes 19

Scandinavia Touring Map 20

DENMARK

Introduction 21

Copenhagen 22

Island of Funen 26

SWEDEN

Introduction 27

Stockholm 28

NORWAY

Introduction 32

Oslo 33

The Fjords 34

FINLAND

Introduction 36

Helsinki 37

Baltic States Touring Map 38

ESTONIA

Introduction 39

Tallinn 40

Muhu Island 41

LATVIA 42

LITHUANIA 43

POLAND

Introduction 44

Touring Map 45

Warsaw 46

Kraków 47

Gdansk Region 48

RUSSIA

Introduction 50

Touring Map 51

Moscow 52

St. Petersburg 54

Hotel Index 56

A The number that follows this symbol indicates my rating of a hotel on a scale of 50-100. To merit inclusion in The Collection, however, a property must achieve a minimum score of 90.

P Look for the plus symbol following a hotel listing, which indicates that significant benefits are available to subscribers. More than 600 recommended hotels and resorts offer privileges that include preferred rates, room upgrades, complimentary breakfasts, spa credits and more.

COVER Keukenhof Gardens, located 23 miles outside of Amsterdam. © BALLYCROY / ISTOCK

VOLUME 10 — NORTHERN EUROPE & RUSSIA

Updated October 2016

A personal guide to the best hotels and restaurants

in the world

NETHERLANDS & BELGIUM ANDREWHARPER.COM2

JERSEY

GUERNSEY

CORSICA

SARDINIA

SICILY

FAROE ISLANDS

SHETLANDISLANDS

ORKNEYISLANDS

BORNHOLM

OLAND

GOTLAND

SAAREMAA

HIIUMAA

OUTERHEBRIDES

B A L E A R I C I S L A N D S

Madeira Islands

AT L A N T I CO C E A N

N o r w e g i a n S e a

N o r t h S e a

M e d i t e r r a n e a n S e a

M e d i t e r r a n e a n S e a

B a l t i c

S e a

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S t r a i t o f S i c i l y

S t r a i t o f G i l b r a l t a r

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ROMANIA

FINLAND

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UNITEDKINGDOM

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SWITZERLAND

SPAIN

SLOVENIA

SLOVAKIA

SERBIA

MONTENEGROSAN MARINO

PORTUGAL

POLAND

NORWAY

NETHERLANDS

MOROCCO

MONACO

MALTA

MACEDONIA

LUXEMBOURG

LITHUANIA

LIECH.

LATVIA

ITALY

IRELAND

HUNGARY

GREECE

GERMANY

FRANCE

ESTONIA

DENMARK

CZECH REP.

CROATIA

BOSNIA& HERZ.

BELGIUM

AUSTRIA

ANDORRA

ALBANIA

MOROCCO ALGERIA

ENGLAND

MADEIRA IS

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Barcelona

Sintra

Madrid

Burgos

IBIZA

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MENORCA

Palma

San SebastianBilbao

León

Valladolid

Cordoba

Granada

Málaga

Seville

PortoCoimbra

Evora

Faro

Lisbon

Logrono

ANTWERP

THE HAGUE

AMSTERDAM

ROTTERDAM

REIMS

LUXEMBOURG CITY

BOUILLON

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1 Conservatorium InterContinental Amstel Canal House Hotel Seven One Seven De L’Europe

2 Hotel Des Indes

3 De Nederlanden

Additional MapsAmsterdam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

HOTEL LOCATOR AND TOURING MAP

4 Inter Scaldes

5 Kasteel Wittem

6 De Witte Lelie

7 Hotel De Tuilerieën The Pand Hotel Guesthouse Bonifacius

8 Hotel Amigo Stanhope Hotel

9 Moulin Hideux

FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 NETHERLANDS 3

NETHERLANDSBRIEFING Thanks to its seafaring and colonial past, Holland is now a vibrant cultural

melting pot. Most visitors will spend a few days in Amsterdam, strolling along canals

lined with merchant houses and admiring the Vermeers in the Rijksmuseum. Outside

of the city, the country abounds with castles, cobblestoned villages, lighthouses and

flower farms. Many tourists visit the Netherlands just to witness the astonishing views

over the bulb fields. The season begins in March with crocuses, followed by daffodils

and yellow narcissi. Hyacinths and tulips bloom from April to mid-May. Aalsmeer, close

to Amsterdam, is the home of the world’s biggest flower auction. The spectacular Flower

Parade of the Bollenstreek is held at the end of April every year.

WHEN TO VISIT Expect mild winters and cool summers with showers. Spring (tulip

time) is the most beautiful season.

AMSTERDAM

Temp (F) JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC

Average high 41 46 48 54 63 67 71 70 66 59 48 43

Average low 34 32 37 41 47 53 56 56 53 45 40 36

PM humidity 80 75 63 60 57 57 62 64 65 70 80 85

Days w/rain 15 18 16 16 14 14 17 18 19 23 20 21

Precip (in) 3.0 2.0 1.5 2.0 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 3.0 3.0 3.0 2.5

TIME Six hours ahead of New York (EST).

CURRENCY Euro (€). Fluctuating rate valued at €1.00 = US$1.12 as of September 2016.

U.S. EMBASSY The Hague, Tel. 70-310-2209. Consulate: Amsterdam, Tel. 20-575-5309.

DIRECT DIAL CODES To phone hotels and restaurants in Holland, dial 011 (international access) + 31 (Netherlands code) + city code and local numbers.

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS Passport (valid for six months beyond end of stay). Visit travel.state.gov, and for travelers’ health information, cdc.gov.

GENERAL INFORMATION Visit holland.com before your trip.

“ The Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam is one of my favorite museums.

Vermeer’s ‘The Milkmaid’ and ‘Woman in Blue Reading a Letter’ are,

for many, objects of pilgrimage.

NETHERLANDS MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM4

BRIEFING Amsterdam is built on a manageable scale: Walking and biking along the

famous canals are ideal ways to view the 17th-century gabled merchants’ houses and

to visit the flower markets, secondhand bookstores and cafés. Glass-topped boat trips

offer other perspectives on Amsterdam, especially at night when many of the city’s

bridges are illuminated.

FROM MY NOTEBOOK

■ Three of the world’s greatest museums are found on the Museumplein, a grassy open

space in Amsterdam-Zuid (Amsterdam South). The Rijksmuseum (MUSEUMSTRAAT 1), with its

superb collection of Rembrandts, Vermeers, Halses and Steens, has reopened after a

10-year, $450 million renovation. Following the reconstruction, the galleries are flooded

with natural light and augmented by an extensive new visitors’ center. Highlights of the

museum include Rembrandt’s “Self Portrait as the Apostle Paul” and “The Night Watch.”

The much-loved Van Gogh Museum (MUSEUMPLEIN 6) attracted nearly 2 million visitors last

year and contains 200 paintings and 400 drawings, the world’s largest collection of

the artist’s work. The museum reopened in 2013 after a comprehensive renovation of

its galleries, and major works found here include “Sunflowers,” “Bedroom in Arles” and

“Wheatfield with Crows” (thought by some to be Van Gogh’s last painting). Another good

option is the Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam (MUSEUMPLEIN 10), which contains an outstanding

collection of contemporary art and design. It features virtually the entire pantheon of

modernist greats, including artists such as Kandinsky, Chagall, Braque, Picasso, Matisse,

Malevich, Pollock, Warhol, de Kooning, Rauschenberg, Johns and Lichtenstein.

InterContinental Amstel

AMSTERDAM


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AMSTEL

P.C. HOOFTSTRAAT

Dam Square

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&samhoud places

Tempo Doeloe

Le Garage Visaandeschelde

Restaurant Greetje

Restaurant Vermeer

■ Holland is a major cheese producer, and not long ago a Dutch cheese, Vermeer, won

first prize at the prestigious World Championship Cheese Contest in Madison, Wisconsin.

Gouda and Edam are well-known, but the country produces a variety of other excellent

cheeses, including bleu de Wolvega (a soft, spicy Frisian blue), Reypenaer V.S.O.P. (an

aged Gouda), commissiekaas (a mature Edam colored with carotene) and Boeren sleutel-

leidse (a cumin-spiced cheese from the Leiden area). Look for them in restaurants, or

track them down at De Kaaskamer, the best cheese shop in the city. RUNSTRAAT 7.

■ Located 23 miles southwest of Amsterdam, the Keukenhof garden was formally estab-

lished in 1949 by an association of Dutch bulb growers. Each year 7 million bulbs — including

tulips, daffodils and hyacinths — are planted in the 79-acre garden. You can check the prog-

ress of the seasonal flowerings on the garden’s website. (The garden is open from late March

to mid-May. Mid-April is usually the most spectacular time.) STATIONSWEG 166A, LISSE. KEUKENHOF.NL

Hotels

1 Conservatorium

2 InterContinental Amstel

3 Canal House

4 Hotel Seven One Seven

5 De L’Europe


FAVORITE RESTAURANTS Compared with that of other former culinary laggards

such as Stockholm, Copenhagen and Berlin, the cooking in Amsterdam has yet to find

a contemporary idiom. Nonetheless, you will discover some excellent places to eat, the

best for local dishes being Greetje on Peperstraat. (PRICES REFLECT APPROXIMATE COST OF DINNER

PER PERSON, EXCLUDING WINE)

&SAMHOUD PLACES One of the most interesting restaurants in Amsterdam is the oddly

named &samhoud places, which earned two stars in a recent edition of the Michelin

Guide. Israeli-born Dutch chef Moshik Roth serves exquisite little cameos of food, such

as goose liver with raspberries, lychees, roses and almonds; turbot with vanilla, kaffir

lime, orange and black rice; and Anjou pigeon with liver, Chinese cabbage, plums, orange

and angelica. I increasingly dislike such complex, finicky menus, but Roth’s is brilliant

from start to finish. CLOSED MONDAY AND TUESDAY, DINNER ONLY SATURDAY AND WEDNESDAY THROUGH THURSDAY.

OOSTERDOKSKADE 5. TEL. 20-260-2094. US$140. PRIX FIXE MENUS, US$150 AND US$195.

LE GARAGE This chic brasserie with its buzzy atmosphere and post-industrial setting

has a slightly louche glamour that draws people from the Dutch arts, cinema and showbiz.

Start with the terrine of foie gras, then try the blanquette de veau, or the roasted chicken

before enjoying a superb crème brûlée for dessert. CLOSED FOR LUNCH SATURDAY AND SUNDAY.

RUYSDAELSTRAAT 54-56. TEL. 20-679-7176. US$65. PRIX FIXE MENUS, US$45 AND US$55.

RESTAURANT GREETJE Owner René Loven’s mission is to offer the sort of Dutch comfort

food that his mother made for him. Start with the grilled sandwich of Frisian sugar

bread with layers of duck liver terrine and a garnish of homemade apple syrup, then try

a hearty main course such as roasted lamb chops with Nicola potatoes from the oven.

You’ll find an excellent sampler of Dutch cheeses. Friendly service adds to the pleasure

of the meal. PEPERSTRAAT 23-25. TEL. 20-779-7450. US$65. PRIX FIXE MENU, US$60.

RESTAURANT VERMEER Open fires, a checkerboard floor and a palette of cream and

gold create a refined setting for chef Christopher Naylor’s French/Continental cuisine.

Notable dishes have included poached lobster with rhubarb and avocado; halibut with

roasted carrots and black garlic; and beef rib with cranberry-shallot chutney, Swiss

chard and red wine beef jus. CLOSED SUNDAY. PRINS HENDRIKKADE 59-72. TEL. 20-556-4885. US$80. PRIX FIXE

MENUS, US$75, US$85 AND US$100.

TEMPO DOELOE Indonesian food is to Amsterdam as Indian food is to London — a

much-loved edible souvenir of the colonial past. The best place in the city to sample this

intriguing cuisine is Tempo Doeloe (a Dutch phrase borrowed from Indonesian that means

“the old days”). For the uninitiated, the best introduction to this sophisticated cuisine is a

rijsttafel (rice table), which is a sampler buffet of many individual dishes including gadon

dari sapi (beef in a gentle coriander-flavored coconut sauce), ajam roedjak (chicken in

a spicy chili-coconut sauce), and sambal goreng oedang (baby prawns with Indonesian

spices). CLOSED SUNDAY. UTRECHTSESTRAAT 75. TEL. 20-625-6718. US$60.

VISAANDESCHELDE The freshest catches of the day from Holland’s North Sea ports have

made this stylish seafood restaurant enormously popular. The menu, which changes

constantly depending on what’s available in the market, varies between classic Euro-

pean preparations and those from countries farther afield (especially Asia). CLOSED FOR

LUNCH SATURDAY AND SUNDAY. SCHELDEPLEIN 4. TEL. 20-675-1583. US$70. PRIX FIXE MENUS, US$50, US$65 AND US$75.


Conservatorium A95 Welcoming eight-story hotel in restored 19th-century

stone-and-brick structure adjacent to Museum Square, close to chic shops and a lovely

park. Striking atrium lobby has glass walls and ceiling. The 129 comfortable and attrac-

tive guest accommodations designed by Piero Lissoni feature oak parquet floors, double-

glazed windows and travertine-lined baths with stall showers; some include separate

living areas and soaking tubs. Two restaurants: casual Conservatorium Brasserie, in a

glass-enclosed interior courtyard; and the more formal Taiko, serving contemporary

Asian dishes. Other amenities include a chic bar for Champagne, cocktails and sushi;

a well-equipped gym; and a spa with a lap pool, seven treatment rooms, lounge/café,

sauna and steam room. DELUXE DUPLEX ROOM, FROM $600; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $760. VAN BAERLESTRAAT 27,

1071 AN AMSTERDAM. TEL. 20-570-0000. CONSERVATORIUMHOTEL.COM P AH BENEFITS

InterContinental Amstel A93 Revitalized 150-year-old hotel set in a 19th-century

palace along the quiet banks of the Amstel River near the Royal Theater Carré and

shopping districts. All 79 guest rooms feature French period furniture, Oriental rugs,

hand-printed patterned wallpaper and large windows; spacious Italian marble baths

with rainfall showers and Anne Semonin toiletries. Michelin-starred La Rive restaurant

serves French-Mediterranean cuisine; informal river-level brasserie for lunch or dinner;

Amstel Lounge in the conservatory for afternoon tea service; and a distinctive cocktail

bar with terrace. Fitness center with personal trainers and health club with massage

treatment rooms, luxurious indoor swimming pool, Jacuzzi, horizontal shower, sauna

and steam room. Cooking classes offered. EXECUTIVE RIVER VIEW ROOM, FROM $650; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM

$750. PROFESSOR TULPPLEIN 1, 1018 GX AMSTERDAM. TEL. 20-622-6060. AMSTERDAM.INTERCONTINENTAL.COM

Conservatorium / © AMIT GERON

RECOMMENDED HOTELS


Canal House A92 Intimate 23-room boutique hotel in three 17th-century

merchants’ houses bordering Keizersgracht canal on the edge of the city’s Jordaan

district. Sophisticated interiors retain historic features such as timber beams, ornate

fireplaces and tall windows. Upper-floor Exceptional Rooms (no elevator) provide views

of canal boat traffic or lush gardens and feature dark oak-plank floors, silk wallcoverings

and modern technology; open baths with soaking tubs, separate glass stall shower and

small twin-vessel sinks. Light menu served in handsome The Great Room overlooking

peaceful, brick-walled garden furnished with comfortable chairs and sofas. Also clubby,

dark-paneled bar with canal views offers an interesting selection of Dutch gins. GREAT ROOM,

FROM $420; EXCEPTIONAL ROOM, FROM $500. KEIZERSGRACHT 148, 1015 CX AMSTERDAM. TEL. 20-622-5182. CANALHOUSE.NL

Hotel Seven One Seven

Hotel Seven One Seven A91 Nine-suite guesthouse in a 19th-century land-

mark mansion on the tree-lined Prinsengracht canal, near the Van Gogh Museum,

Rijksmuseum and Spiegelstraat antiques quarter. A solid oak staircase leads to uniquely

appointed lodgings that feature beamed ceilings, crown moldings, large windows and

ample closets along with comfortable sitting areas and a mix of antique furniture and

modern accents; baths include walk-in rainfall showers. Breakfast is served in the guest

rooms, on the secluded garden patio or in the art-filled breakfast room furnished with

a grand piano; afternoon tea service is offered in the lounge. Breakfast only, but many

restaurants nearby. In-room massage treatments available. JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $570; EXECUTIVE

SUITE, FROM $760. PRINSENGRACHT 717, 1017 JW AMSTERDAM. TEL. 20-427-0717. 717HOTEL.NL P AH BENEFITS

De L’Europe A90 Landmark hotel on the Amstel River within walking distance of

the Van Gogh Museum and P.C. Hooftstraat shopping area. The 111 rooms and suites are

housed in either the newer Dutch Masters Wing or the historic Rondeel building. Each of

the 23 individually decorated suites with separate sitting rooms and white marble baths

in the Dutch Masters Wing features a different Dutch Masters painting replicated from

the original in the nearby Rijksmuseum. Two-star Bord’Eau restaurant for contemporary

French cuisine, plus an informal brasserie and seasonal scenic riverside terrace serving

local Dutch specialties; also a library, wine cellar and a fumoir. Full-service spa with

gym, Jacuzzi and mosaic-lined heated indoor pool. DELUXE RIVER VIEW ROOM, FROM $630; JUNIOR

SUITE, FROM $790. NIEUWE DOELENSTRAAT 2-14, 1012 CP AMSTERDAM. TEL. 20-531-1777. DELEUROPE.COM P AH BENEFITS


THE HAGUE

BRIEFING The Hague is the third-largest city in the Netherlands after Amsterdam

and Rotterdam. It is the seat of the Dutch government, but not the national capital, this

being a role reserved for Amsterdam. The Hague is also the location of the primary

judicial institutions of the United Nations. Unlike the nearby cities of Leiden and Delft,

The Hague is not a walled city laced with canals. Instead, it has spacious streets lined

by 18th-century houses. City life concentrates around the Hofvijver and the Binnenhof,

where the parliament is located. The Mauritshuis exhibits many paintings by Dutch

Masters, such as Vermeer and Rembrandt, while the Gemeentemuseum is home to the

world’s largest collection of works by the Dutch painter Piet Mondrian.

Hotel Des Indes A92 Grand 92-room Old World hotel on a tree-lined square near

embassies, the royal palace, government buildings and the city’s finest shops. Elegant

rooms refurbished by celebrated designer Jacques Garcia offer well-equipped baths

featuring heated black marble floors, white marble basins, red tiles and rainfall showers.

Junior Suites include living spaces with sofas, work areas, chandeliers and king-size beds.

Chic Restaurant Des Indes serves French- and Italian-inspired contemporary dishes in

a stately dining room; an elegant high tea is offered in the lounge every day. Amenities

include a cigar lounge, well-equipped fitness center and a full-service spa with Swedish

sauna, solarium and indoor swimming pool with jet stream. EXECUTIVE ROOM, FROM $365; JUNIOR

SUITE, FROM $545. LANGE VOORHOUT 54-56, 2514 EG THE HAGUE. TEL. 70-361-2345. HOTELDESINDESTHEHAGUE.COM

Binnenhof / © ANASTASY YARMOLOVICH/ISTOCK / THINKSTOCK

RECOMMENDED HOTELS


VREELAND

BRIEFING Vreeland is a picturesque village located on the Vecht river in the Vechtstreek,

a region between the cities of Utrecht and Amsterdam. Located in the economic heart-

land of the Netherlands, the Vechtstreek is famous for its many mansions and parks,

which bear witness to the wealth of the Dutch Golden Age. Vreeland is surrounded by

numerous lakes, but aside from water activities, visitors come to enjoy the local hiking

and biking routes. The Floris de Vijfde and Waterlinie paths were opened in 2004 and

have since proved extremely popular.

De Nederlanden A95 Tranquil 17th-century auberge on the banks of the Vecht

River in the village of Vreeland, 20 minutes from Amsterdam and Utrecht. Ten guest

accommodations with beamed ceilings and large-paned windows include comfortable

beds, upholstered club chairs or love seats, writing desks and armoires; some also come

with woodburning fireplaces and river views. Suites have lounge areas and either a

private balcony or a bath with a Jacuzzi tub and separate shower. A Michelin-starred

restaurant offers refined French cuisine with seasonal touches; light fare is served in

a handsome lounge or on the waterside terrace during the summer. Activities include

cooking workshops, tranquil boat cruises, biking and sailing. DELUXE ROOM, FROM $200; SUITE,

FROM $230. DUINKERKEN 3, 3633 EM VREELAND AAN DE VECHT. TEL. 294-232-326. NEDERLANDEN.NL

Dutch countryside / © JAAP HART/ISTOCK

“ The town of Breukelen, six miles south of Vreeland, gave its name

to the New York borough of Brooklyn.


ZEELAND

BRIEFING The province of Zeeland (“Sea-land”) lies in the delta of the rivers Rhine,

Waal and Meuse. Much of it is below sea level; the land was reclaimed over the centuries,

and what used to be mud flats that flooded at high tide became a series of small, man-

made hills connected by dikes. Middelburg, the provincial capital, is an attractive city

with a fine museum that’s located in an old abbey. During Holland’s Golden Age, Zeeland

was one of the two most important seafaring provinces of the Netherlands. Visitors

come to enjoy the long, sandy beaches in resorts such as Domburg and tiny Zoutelande.

Inter Scaldes A94 Renowned 12-room gourmet retreat in a 1920s manor house

with English-style gardens on a peninsula between two estuaries in Zeeland, 45 minutes

north of Antwerp. Preferred ground-floor rooms open onto hedge-screened terraces;

some feature Jacuzzi baths and separate sitting areas. All accommodations are deco-

rated with colorful fabrics and fine antiques; compact baths provide tubs with hand-

held showers. Chef Jannis Brevet creates marvelous cuisine from local seafood and

fresh seasonal ingredients at his renowned two-starred restaurant. Diversions include

cooking classes, wine tastings, tennis, mountain biking, hiking and fishing, plus nearby

golf and water sports. Hotel closed every Monday and Tuesday. SUPERIOR ROOM, $350; JUNIOR

SUITE, $400. ZANDWEG 2, 4416 NA KRUININGEN. TEL. 113-381-753. INTERSCALDES.EU

MAASTRICHT AREA

BRIEFING The charming city of Maastricht is bisected by the Meuse River and is close

to both the Belgian and German borders. The city’s strategic location has resulted in

an impressive array of fortifications, but these days Maastricht is known as a center of

tradition, history and culture. In 1992, the Maastricht Treaty was negotiated and signed

here, causing the creation of the European Union. The renowned European Fine Art

Fair is held every March.

Kasteel Wittem A91 Family-owned medieval castle-hotel (a listed national

monument) surrounded by 300-year-old gardens located in the valley of the river Geul.

Twelve individually appointed stately lodgings. Book a tower suite, which feature a

circular master bedroom; small separate living area; bath with shower/tub combination;

and beautiful garden, courtyard or river views. Brasserie serves local specialties; also

features a comfortable library with reading table, a lounge bar and an outdoor dining

terrace overlooking garden and moat. The historic city of Aachen (Aix-la-Chapelle) lies

just nine miles to the east. Activities include hiking, mountain biking, canoeing, kaya-

king, nearby golf and daytrips to Maastricht and Valkenburg. DELUXE CASTLE ROOM, FROM $180;

TOWER SUITE, FROM $250. WITTEMER ALLEE 3, 6286 AA WITTEM. TEL. 43-450-1208. KASTEELWITTEM.NL

BELGIUM MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM12

BELGIUMBRIEFING Belgium’s two largest regions are the Dutch-speaking region of Flanders

(which includes the “Low Country” of Antwerp and the famous medieval city of Bruges,

among other areas) and the southern francophone region of Wallonia. The eastern

half of the country is dominated by the Ardennes: a rugged, densely forested area that

was the site of three major battles in the two world wars. Bruges is a startlingly pictur-

esque city laced by a network of mirror-like canals. Numerous art galleries include the

Groeningemuseum, notable for Flemish primitive paintings. Brussels is the headquar-

ters of both NATO and the European Union. Belgium is famous for beer — more than

500 varieties — chocolate, waffles and french fries. French fries originated in Belgium,

the name referring to the manner in which the potato is sliced: to “french” means to

cut into slivers.

WHEN TO VISIT Belgium’s climate is temperate but seldom settled for long. The

northern, low-lying coastal area is driest and experiences the warmest winters and

coolest summers. Brussels is representative of the showery central region. The hilly

and sparsely populated southern Ardennes area has colder winters with snow and fog.

BRUSSELS


Average high 40 45 50 57 64 72 73 72 70 59 48 43

Average low 30 32 36 41 46 52 54 53 52 45 37 32

PM humidity 86 81 74 71 65 65 68 69 69 77 85 86

Days w/rain 21 17 17 18 16 15 17 18 13 17 20 19

Precip (in) 2.5 2.5 2.0 2.5 2.0 3.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 3.5 3.0 3.5



U.S. EMBASSY Brussels, Tel. 2-811-4000.

DIRECT DIAL CODES To phone hotels and restaurants in Belgium, dial 011 (international access) + 32 (Belgium code) + city code and local numbers.


GENERAL INFORMATION Visit www.visitbelgium.com before your trip.

“ The dish ‘moules-frites’ originated in Belgium. Mussels,

cheap and prolific on the Flemish coast, were combined with

the fried potatoes that were consumed in winter when

no other food was available.

FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 BELGIUM 13

ANTWERP

BRIEFING Dutch-speaking Antwerp is a port and provincial capital in Flanders, one

of Belgium’s three regions. By 1560 it had become the second-largest European city

north of the Alps. Antwerp is famous for having been the home of Peter Paul Rubens,

and the 14th-century Cathedral of Our Lady contains four major works by the painter.

Rubens died in May 1640 and is buried in St. James’ Church. Today, the Royal Museum

of Fine Arts has a magnificent collection of Old Masters, including paintings by Rubens,

Van Dyck and Titian. In August every year, the Bollekesfeest is a showcase for regional

products such as beer from the De Koninck brewery; Elixir d’Anvers, a locally made

liqueur; roasted coffee from Koffie Verheyen; and Poolster pickled herring.

De Witte Lelie A92 Stylish 10-room family-run hotel created from three restored

17th-century canal houses and set around a central courtyard, near the Grote Markt

and old city center. Duplex lodgings and Junior Suites blend a striking white-on-white

contemporary décor with Old World wood accents, marble fireplaces and quality antiques.

Grand 965-square-foot Louis XIV-style Presidential Suite features vaulted ceilings with

ornate moldings, parquet floor, decorative fireplace and elegant crystal chandeliers. The

comfortable accommodations have superb modern baths in gleaming white. Breakfast

is served in-room or next to an elegant fireplace in a light, airy room that opens onto

the courtyard; many excellent restaurants are a short walk away. DUPLEX ROOM, FROM $360;

JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $480. KEIZERSTRAAT 16, 2000 ANTWERP. TEL. 3-226-1966. DEWITTELELIE.BE

De Witte Lelie

RECOMMENDED HOTELS


BRIEFING Bruges lies 62 miles northwest of Brussels. By the end of the 13th century,

it had become extravagantly rich thanks to the wool trade. Today it remains an unspoiled

medieval city of gabled brick houses, magnificent churches and café-lined squares. It

is ideal for strolling or cycling; tour boats also cruise the city’s network of picturesque

canals. The two local obsessions are handmade lace and luxury chocolates. Numerous

superb art galleries include the Groeningemuseum, notable for Flemish primitive paintings.

FROM MY NOTEBOOK

■ One of the triumphs of the local cuisine is french fries — thick and twice-fried to crisp

perfection. Unlike at home, the accompaniment is mayonnaise, not ketchup. Although

I would not recommend any of the tourist-trade restaurants abutting the city’s central

Markt, you will find excellent frites at one of the frites vans (frietkot) on the Markt’s

perimeter. For something a bit more refined, you can go to a frites specialist such as

Chez Vincent. SINT-SALVATORSKERKHOF 1.

■ The other local gastronomic passion is chocolate, which comes in every conceivable

variation. I recommend Dominique Persoone’s shop, The Chocolate Line (SIMON STEVINPLEIN

19). If you’ve ever wondered what wasabi chocolate tastes like, this is the place to find

out (Antwerp also has a branch). If you are a purist, head for BbyB (SINT-AMANDSSTRAAT 39),

which offers simple bars of fine Belgian chocolate in colorful boxes.

■ I recommend pausing in the Princely Béguinage Ten Wijngaerde, a cloistered living

space for lay-women. One March, I found the tranquil courtyard awash with daffodils.

BEGIJNHOF 1.

■ An hour outside Bruges, the Flanders Field World War I cemetery and memorial

makes for a moving day trip. ABMC.GOV

Hotel De Tuilerieën / © FILIP BOUSSAUW

BRUGES


The Pand Hotel A92 Family-owned 18th-century mansion on a quiet street in the

heart of town. Twenty-six comfortable Old World-style guest accommodations feature

period furniture and provide smallish marble or granite baths; recommended Ralph

Lauren-decorated Junior Suites offer whirlpool tubs, walk-in showers and Hermès toilet-

ries. French and English antiques create a refined atmosphere in the two lounges and

in a pine-paneled library with its open fire and hundreds of fine old books. A congenial

bar is appointed with mahogany furniture and leather Chesterfield armchairs; also has

a peaceful inner garden with fountain. The hotel has no restaurant, but an excellent

breakfast is served in a pretty room off the lobby. Health club around the corner. DELUXE

ROOM, FROM $350; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $490. PANDREITJE 16, 8000 BRUGES. TEL. 5-034-0666. PANDHOTEL.COM

Hotel De Tuilerieën A93 Intimate 45-room hotel in a restored 15th-century

residence along the picturesque Den Dijver canal in the historic center of Bruges, within

walking distance of most major sights. Comfortable, well-appointed rooms feature dark

woods, antiques and paintings and offer views of Renaissance buildings across the canal

or of the covered pool. Philippe Starck-designed lodgings in the newer wing are more

colorful and contemporary. Facilities include a cozy bar with a working fireplace; a

peaceful garden terrace; a paneled reading room/lounge; and a wellness complex with

small indoor heated swimming pool, whirlpool, sauna and steam bath. Massages arranged

by appointment. A breakfast buffet is served in a sumptuous chandeliered dining room.

EXECUTIVE ROOM, FROM $300; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $420. DIJVER 7, B-8000 BRUGES. TEL. 5-034-3691. HOTELTUILERIEEN.COM

RECOMMENDED HOTELS

Guesthouse Bonifacius A91 Romantic, family-owned 16th-century bed-and-

breakfast tucked away down a small lane and overlooking one of Bruges’ many canals

and the Bonifacius bridge. Just three atmospheric and peaceful guest suites, each

decorated with rich fabrics, antique furniture and objets d’art; granite baths are stocked

with Hermès toiletries and come with sizable Jacuzzi tubs and separate walk-in showers.

Public areas are decorated with heavy carved wooden furniture, ancient chests, old

mirrors and piles of leather-bound books. Cozy lounge features a log-burning fireplace;

breakfast served in the intimate canal-side Gothic Room. Exquisite rooftop terrace with

impressive city views. Convenient base from which to tour the city. JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $360;

SUITE, FROM $420 (MINIMUM STAY MAY APPLY). GROENINGE 4, 8000 BRUGES. TEL. 5-049-0049. BONIFACIUS.BE

“ Bruges lacks a full-service grand hotel, but its atmospheric

smaller hideaways are more than sufficient compensation.


BRUSSELS

BRIEFING The cosmopolitan capital of Belgium is a bilingual city where both French

and Dutch are official languages. All of the streets have two names; for example, the main

square is called both La Grand-Place and de Grote Markt. The Grote Markt contains an

array of spectacular Gothic buildings, including the 15th-century Brussels City Hall,

which towers 315 feet above the square and is capped by a 12-foot statue of St. Michael.

Elsewhere, you will find art nouveau museums and art deco residences. Brussels is also

a European gastronomic capital.

FROM MY NOTEBOOK

■ Squares are common enough in European cities, but La Grand-Place in Brussels is a

standout. I love the guild houses, which, during the evenings of April to September, are

washed with colored lights. Christmas is especially lovely with a huge tree and crèche.

■ The city takes pride in its collection of art nouveau buildings and structures — indeed,

it bills itself as the art nouveau capital of the world. Locally, the foremost proponent was

architect Victor Horta, and admirers of the style will find a visit to the Horta Museum

rewarding. Set in Horta’s former home and studio, it features an arresting five-floor

staircase that culminates in a beautiful glass skylight. 25 RUE AMÉRICAINE.

■ Memorable bars in which to try local beers include Au Bon Vieux Temps, which has

an extraordinary Gothic interior (IMPASSE SAINT-NICOLAS 4), and lively A l’Imaige Nostre-Dame

with wood beams and stained glass windows (RUE DU MARCHÉ AUX HERBES 8).

■ The view from the northwest end of the Mont des Arts, on the opposite side of the

square from the Magritte Museum, is memorable at sunset. RUE ROYALE 2-4 - KONINGSTRAAT 2-4.

La Grand-Place / © ISSELEE HUBERT - SOFAM BELGIUM/ISTOCK


FAVORITE RESTAURANTS Brussels abounds with good restaurants — not only does

the city have a strong local culinary tradition, but with so many cultures represented,

the dining scene is rewardingly diverse. (PRICES REFLECT APPROXIMATE COST OF DINNER PER PERSON,

EXCLUDING WINE)

BON BON Located in the leafy Uccle quarter, Bon Bon follows an atelier de chef format,

meaning that young chef Christophe Hardiquest decides daily what to serve. Hardiquest

produces Mediterranean-inspired cooking with the finest European produce — on the

ever-changing menu, dishes have included veal from the Corrèze department of France;

king crab from the Barents Sea; and line-caught wild turbot, sea bass and John Dory.

Among his creations have been sea bream on a bed of Swiss chard and baby mussels,

and roasted pigeon with chanterelles and tarragon gnocchi. CLOSED MONDAY LUNCH AND ALL DAY

SATURDAY AND SUNDAY. AVENUE DE TERVUEREN 453. TEL. 2-346-6615. FIVE-COURSE MENU, US$195; CHEF'S MENU, US$250.

COMME CHEZ SOI This family-run gastronomic mecca features a striking art nouveau

dining room that serves classic dishes such as sole fillets with a mousseline of Riesling

and shrimps; or young pigeon from Poitou with smoked curry and cubeb pepper, tarragon

and sherry vinegar. CLOSED SUNDAY AND MONDAY, CLOSED TUESDAY AND WEDNESDAY FOR LUNCH. PLACE ROUPPE

23. TEL. 2-512-2921. US$135. FOUR-COURSE MENU, US$115; FIVE COURSES, US$170; SIX COURSES, US$225 AND US$270.

L’ECAILLER DU PALAIS ROYAL Paneled walls and plaid fabrics foster a warm, clublike

atmosphere at this hospitable seafood restaurant. The menu offers classics such as sole

stuffed with gray shrimp, and bouillabaisse of North Sea fish, as well as an impressive

service of Petrossian caviar. BODENBROEK 18. TEL. 2-512-8751. US$120.

LE FOURNEAU IBERIQUE Occupying a loftlike space with an open kitchen and a black

granite counter, this spot has proved to be an immediate hit. Contemporary food is served

as tapas-style appetizers and priced-by-the-weight main courses. Starters have included

aged Iberian ham, St. Jacques-style scallops, braised bacon and citrus mousseline, and

a mini-burger of wagyu beef with foie gras mayonnaise and Belgian cheese. Among

recommended main courses are the braised octopus with julienned vegetables, pineapple

and hummus; and Iberian pork loin with fried sweet potatoes and caramelized onions.

CLOSED SUNDAY AND MONDAY. PLACE SAINTE-CATHERINE 8. TEL. 2-513-1002. US$65. SIX-DISH “DISCOVERY” MENU, US$55.

LA VILLA LORRAINE Housed in a renovated mansion, this lavish and elegantly appointed

shrine to gourmet food sits on the fringes of the verdant Bois de la Cambre park. The

traditional French menu might include dishes such as poached foie gras with strawber-

ries, rhubarb and a hibiscus jus; and wagyu beef with anchovy tempura, artichokes and

broad beans. Dining outside on the garden terrace is recommended during the summer.

CLOSED SUNDAY AND MONDAY. AVENUE DU VIVIER D’OIE 75. TEL. 2-374-3163. US$140. FIVE-COURSE MENU, US$130; SEVEN

COURSES, US$175.

“ The menu at L’Ecailler du Palais Royal offers classics such as

sole stuffed with gray shrimp, and bouillabaisse of North Sea fish.


Hotel Amigo A93 Superbly re-styled 173-room historic hotel in a picturesque

downtown location, steps from the medieval Grand Place (Grote Markt) and within easy

walking distance of Le Sablon, renowned for antiques and fine art. The ambiance is

enhanced by light-filled public areas with an appealing contemporary décor. Individually

decorated guest rooms offer views of the marketplace or of the churches and spires of

the city. Junior Suites feature separate living rooms, king-size beds, spacious dressing

rooms and large marble baths with tubs, showers and Tintin memorabilia. Dining options

include a fine Italian/Mediterranean restaurant and chic Bar Amigo. Also fully equipped

fitness center. This is Brussels’ prestige address. DELUXE ROOM, FROM $380; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $620.

RUE DE L’AMIGO 1-3, 1000 BRUSSELS. TEL. 2-547-4747. ROCCOFORTEHOTELS.COM P AH BENEFITS

Hotel Amigo

RECOMMENDED HOTELS

Stanhope Hotel A90 Elegant 125-room hotel in several 19th-century former

townhouses within walking distance of designer shops and key attractions, which include

the Royal Palace, Magritte Museum and European Parliament. Rooms and suites are

decorated in classic English style with floral fabrics, warm colors, bookshelves and

lovely antiques; some rooms provide tubs and separate showers. Brighton Restaurant

serves classic French/Mediterranean cuisine in a British-style dining room accented

by hand-painted Chinese frescoes that line the walls or in an interior garden courtyard

with ivy-covered walls; homey Library Bar features leather sofas and a working fireplace.

Fitness center and sauna; massages available by request. CLUB ROOM, FROM $300; SUITE, FROM

$360. RUE DU COMMERCE 9, B-1000 BRUSSELS. TEL. 2-506-9111. THONHOTELS.BE


ARDENNES

BRIEFING The Ardennes is a region of forests and rolling hills that is primarily in

Belgium and Luxembourg but also streches into France. The area is typified by steep

valleys carved by fast-flowing rivers, the most prominent of which is the Meuse. The

highly strategic position of the Ardennes has made it a battleground for European powers

for centuries. During the Battle of the Bulge in World War II, the German army launched

a surprise attack here in an attempt to capture Antwerp and drive a wedge between

the American and British forces. Today, visitors come to enjoy the scenic beauty and

outdoor activities such as hunting, cycling, walking and canoeing. The extensive forests

have abundant populations of wild game, which is reflected in the local gastronomy.

Moulin Hideux

Moulin Hideux A94 Handsome brick family-owned auberge tucked in a converted

17th-century gristmill overlooking a serene pond in the Semois Valley near the French

border, two hours southeast of Brussels. Mellow interior contains 12 Provençal-style

guest quarters with well-lit baths and classic floral drapes. Gourmet Michelin one-star

restaurant serves delicious cuisine that employs quality ingredients primarily sourced

from local producers. Common areas include an inviting drawing room (only location

for Wi-Fi) with comfy leather furniture and a log-burning fire, plus a cigar lounge and a

well-maintained garden with tables and parasols. Heated indoor swimming pool, outdoor

solarium, hammam, sauna and tennis court; massages available. Closed mid-December

to mid-March. LUXURY ROOM, $250; SUITE, $300. B-6831 NOIREFONTAINE. TEL. 61-467-015. MOULINHIDEUX.BE

RECOMMENDED HOTELS

SCANDINAVIA MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM20

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6 Hotel Union Øye Storfjord Hotel Hotel Brosundet

7 Hotel KämpAdditional MapsCopenhagen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

HOTEL LOCATORAND TOURING MAP

SCANDINAVIA

FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 DENMARK 21

BRIEFING Denmark is made up of the peninsula of Jutland (Jylland) and more than

400 islands scattered throughout the North and Baltic seas, most notably Zealand (Sjael-

land), Funen (Fyn), Vendsyssel-Thy, Lolland, Falster and Bornholm. This seafaring nation

is known for the friendliness of its citizens as well as for its lovely coastal countryside

(nowhere in Denmark is farther than 32 miles from the ocean) and Viking heritage.

The country’s capital, Copenhagen, is arguably the most congenial of the Scandinavian

cities. Denmark is regularly cited as having the world’s highest levels of social mobility

and income equality.

WHEN TO VISIT Denmark’s climate is similar to that of Britain, with mild winters punc-

tuated by occasional cold spells. Summers are temperate, and rain is always a possibility.

COPENHAGEN


Average high 36 36 41 50 61 66 72 70 64 54 45 39

Average low 28 27 30 37 46 52 57 56 52 45 37 34

PM humidity 85 83 78 68 59 60 62 64 69 76 83 87

Days w/rain 17 13 12 12 11 13 14 14 15 15 16 17

Precip (in) 2.0 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.7 2.0 3.0 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.0 2.0


CURRENCY Danish krone (DKK). Fluctuating rate valued at DKK6.67 = US$1.00 as of September 2016.

U.S. EMBASSY Copenhagen, Tel. 3341-7100.

DIRECT DIAL CODES To phone hotels and restaurants in Denmark, dial 011 (international access) + 45 (Denmark code) + city code and local numbers.


GENERAL INFORMATION Visit goscandinavia.com before your trip.

DENMARKNyhavn, Copenhagen / © CHRIS HEPBURN/ISTOCK

DENMARK MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM22

COPENHAGEN

BRIEFING Copenhagen is an appealing and stylish city, with handsome cobbled

squares and copper-roofed townhouses complemented by elegant modern architecture.

Numerous fine restaurants — the city can usually boast around a dozen with Michelin

stars — serve delicious cuisine employing superb local fish and produce. Copenhagen

is famously pedestrian-friendly and has several classic attractions to commend it,

including Amalienborg Palace and the Strøget promenade. The summer Copenhagen

Jazz Festival is one of the best such events in the world. Since 2000, Copenhagen has

been connected to southern Sweden by the five-mile Øresund Bridge.

FROM MY NOTEBOOK

■ One of the best views in Copenhagen is from Europe’s oldest functioning observa-

tory, the Rundetaarn (Round Tower), which dates to the 17th century. The gradual climb

up seven-and-a-half turns of the tower’s spiral ramp leads to an observation deck 114

feet above ground, providing sweeping views of the city. Go early to miss the crowds.

KØBMAGERGADE 52A.

■ If you have your heart set on dining at hot spots such as Geranium, one way to do

so without booking years in advance is to join a private event arranged by gastronomic

entrepreneur Kristian Brask Thomsen. A former maître d’hôtel who speaks five languages

fluently, Thomsen regularly stages small dinner parties at these Lucullan establishments.

BON-VIVANT.DK

■ Within easy reach of Copenhagen by car or train, the Louisiana Museum of Modern

Art ranks among the world’s top art institutions. The elegant modern structure stands

amid landscaped grounds overlooking the Oresund sound, and, in addition to its excel-

lent permanent collection, it hosts world-class temporary shows. I’ll never forget the

exhibition of Henri Cartier-Bresson photographs I once saw there. Helsingør, where

Shakespeare set “Hamlet,” is five miles farther north. GL. STRANDVEJ 13, HUMLEBÆK.

Hôtel d’Angleterre


FAVORITE RESTAURANTS One of the most interesting developments on the world

food scene of late has been the emergence of New Nordic cuisine. For the practitioners

of this young style, Copenhagen sets the pace with its innovative restaurants. (PRICES

REFLECT APPROXIMATE COST OF DINNER PER PERSON, EXCLUDING WINE)

AOC Chef Søren Selin has an intriguing gastronomic imagination and a peerless

command of culinary technique. His menus change often, but they are always made

almost exclusively with Danish seasonal produce and run to dishes such as lumpfish

roe, veal and cranberries; and beef with bone marrow, nettles and cep mushrooms. The

vaulted white dining rooms are quietly dramatic, and service is excellent. CLOSED SUNDAY

AND MONDAY. DRONNINGENS TVÆRGADE 2. TEL. 33-11-11-45. PRIX FIXE MENUS, US$200 AND US$245.

CLOU This appealing contemporary restaurant is the rare Copenhagen newcomer where

you can also order à la carte, perhaps selecting dishes such as oysters with passion fruit

vinaigrette; scallops with Jerusalem artichokes, potatoes, Niçoise olives and truffles;

or a delicious dessert of strawberries, macadamia nuts and chocolate. You can elect to

enjoy a different wine with each course of the tasting menus. BORGERGADE 16. TEL. 36-16-30-00.

US$100. THREE-COURSE MENU, US$175; FIVE COURSES, US$250; SEVEN COURSES, US$300.

FORMEL B What began as a well-received exploration of new concepts by bright young

chefs almost careened to ruin at formel B. But, two of those talented chefs whipped

things into shape, and now the restaurant enjoys an exalted reputation as a place to

find superb cooking rooted in French technique and using Nordic produce. In this sleek

setting, look for such dishes as salted Danish cod with crudités, creamy mussel foam

and lovage; langoustine à la nage with carrot purée and local vegetables; and free-range

Danish pork with glazed beets, yogurt and harissa. DINNER ONLY, CLOSED SUNDAY. VESTERBROGADE

182, 1800 FREDERIKSBERG C. TEL. 33-25-10-66. US$105. PRIX FIXE, US$130.

GERANIUM With a striking modern dining room of white walls, charcoal banquettes

and a dark plank floor that overlooks the leafy Fælledparken (Common Gardens),

Geranium offers intriguing New Scandinavian cuisine. The creative, ever-changing

menu by chef Rasmus Kofoed runs to dishes such as salted, gently smoked haddock

with crispy fish scales and clarified buttermilk with parsley stems and Finnish caviar;

slow-cooked Danish pork neck with young cabbage leaves, pickled young garlic, pine

oil and black currant leaves with pork jus; and elderberry jelly for dessert. An organic

vegetarian menu is also offered. CLOSED SUNDAY, MONDAY AND TUESDAY. PER HENRIK LINGS ALLÉ 4.

TEL. 69-96-00-20. PRIX FIXE MENU, US$305.

IDA DAVIDSEN Smørrebrød, or open-faced sandwiches topped with a variety of delicious

ingredients, are a Danish passion. Chef Ida Davidsen is locally famous for serving the best

of these quick eats at her Copenhagen restaurant. Try the smoked salmon with lungfish

caviar, or maybe the “Hans Christian Andersen,” named for the famous children’s writer

and piled high with liver pâté, bacon and tomatoes. CLOSED SATURDAY AND SUNDAY, OPEN FOR LUNCH

ONLY. STORE KONGENSGADE 70. TEL. 33-91-36-55. US$45.

KØDBYENS FISKEBAR This seafood restaurant, which is owned by former noma

manager and sommelier Anders Selmer, pulls a fashionable crowd with an outstanding

menu by chef Jamie Lee. Relaxed and casual, it’s an ideal place to sample dishes


such as blue mussels in herbed apple cider, or fish and chips in the form of lightly

smoked cod with fried potatoes and remoulade. An excellent selection of oysters

and other fresh shellfish is also available. LUNCH SATURDAY AND SUNDAY ONLY. FLÆSKETORVET 100.

TEL. 32-15-56-56. US$75. SEVEN-COURSE CHEF’S MENU, US$75.

KOKKERIET This fascinating restaurant offers a dynamic interplay of the traditional

and the contemporary. Housed in an old Danish navy barracks dating to the 1600s, the

interior is soothingly minimal but handsome, and the food embodies a mix of Danish and

European traditions and ingredients. The offerings bring together pristine elements in

beautiful presentations, and they have included cod with beets and capers, Jerusalem

artichokes with cep mushrooms and watercress, scallops with pears and verbena, and

pork with celery and parsley. DINNER ONLY, CLOSED SUNDAY. KRONPRINSESSEGADE 64. TEL. 33-15-27-77. US$115.

PRIX FIXE MENUS, US$130 AND US$180.

KONG HANS KAELDER Not all restaurants and cooking styles in Copenhagen stand on

the edge of the culinary horizon — this lovely, romantic restaurant makes its home in a

building that goes back 700 years and was once where Hans Christian Anderson lived.

Set in the cellar, it is an intimate series of spaces defined by vaulted arches, softly lit

to cast a warm glow over the white-linened tables. French tradition pairs with Nordic

ingredients on a menu that features such dishes as the signature roasted black lobster,

which is served with delicate white asparagus and is accompanied by an asparagus-

lobster mousse with a light and frothy asparagus sauce. DINNER ONLY, CLOSED SUNDAY AND MONDAY.

VINGAARDSSTRÆDE 6. TEL. 33-11-68-68. FIVE-COURSE MENU, US$230.

MIELCKE & HURTIGKARL Located in a pretty 18th-century pavilion in the Royal Danish

Horticultural Society’s Garden, this restaurant has a whimsical modern décor and serves

excellent contemporary Danish cooking. The ever-changing, offbeat prix fixe menus

run to dishes such as monkfish foie gras, smoked scallops with onion and coconut, and

venison prepared two ways. The food is fascinating, but it is best suited to the gastro-

nomically adventurous. DINNER ONLY, CLOSED SUNDAY AND MONDAY. FREDERIKSBERG RUNDDEL 1, FREDERIKSBERG.

TEL. 38-34-84-36. MENUS, US$120, US$145 AND US$170.

RELÆ The unassuming appearance of this place belies its high reputation. New head

chef Jonathan Tam is constantly revising the menus. Two tasting menus are served at

dinner with the focus on vegetables, but the menus are not strictly vegan — one is for

omnivores, the other is for vegetarians. CLOSED SUNDAY AND MONDAY, LUNCH AVAILABLE FRIDAY AND

SATURDAY. JÆGERSBORGGADE 41. TEL. 36-96-66-09. FOUR-COURSE MENU, US$75; SEVEN COURSES, US$135.

“ Clou, an appealing

contemporary restaurant,

is the rare Copenhagen

newcomer where you can also

order à la carte.

Amuse bouches of oyster, passion fruit and ginger © THOMAS HOMMELGAARD


Hôtel d’Angleterre A96 Elegant hotel in renovated 270-year-old neoclassical

building located on Kongens Nytorv, steps from the fashionable Strøget shopping street

and the Royal Danish Theatre. Ninety rooms, some with private balconies, combine modern

touches and technology with refined traditional décor such as plush Champagne-colored

carpets, brocade love seats and stylish writing desks. Large marble baths have soaking tubs

and separate rainfall showers. Modern Nordic/French cuisine at excellent one-star Marchal

restaurant; also contemporary Champagne bar. Other amenities include spa with well-

equipped fitness studio, sauna, steam room and spectacular tile-and-marble indoor swim-

ming pool. DELUXE GUESTROOM, FROM $685; DELUXE JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $1,140. KONGENS NYTORV 34, 1050 COPENHAGEN.

TEL. 33-12-00-95. DANGLETERRE.COM P AH BENEFITS

AMAGER BOULEVARDVERMLANDSGADE

H.C. ANDERSENS BOULEVARD

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Hotels

1 Hôtel d’Angleterre

RECOMMENDED HOTELS

“ Since the late 1990s, Copenhagen has undergone a transformation

from a modest Scandinavian capital into a metropolis of international

significance and appeal.


ISLAND OF FUNEN

BRIEFING The large island of Funen lies about 85 miles west of Copenhagen. A pretty

and peaceful place, it is known as the “Garden of Denmark” thanks to fertile soil that

yields an abundance of produce. The terrain is generally flat, with the exception of a

wooded ridge in the southwest known ironically to locals as the “Funen Alps.” Its principal

city, Odense, is the birthplace of Hans Christian Andersen. Egeskov Castle is one of the

best-preserved Renaissance fortresses in Europe. Built in 1554, the majestic red-brick

structure is situated in the middle of a lake and is surrounded by a magnificent park that

includes a maze, a fuchsia garden and an herb garden. Funen is reached from Jutland

by one of the two bridges spanning a channel known as the “Little Belt.”

Falsled Kro A96 Cozy and rustic 16th-century inn set above a charming harbor on

the pastoral island of Funen, one hour from Copenhagen Airport. A thatched-roof manor

and two garden annexes contain 19 guest accommodations (nine suites), some with sitting

areas, fireplaces and verandas. Request one of the spacious terrace suites with white

brick walls, open fireplaces and baths with tubs and separate showers (14, 15, 17-21 or

the particularly charming Room 16). A wood-beamed gourmet restaurant with an open

kitchen offers fresh seafood, smokehouse salmon, game and wild fowl specialties, estate-

grown produce (including berries) and homemade breads and desserts. Complimentary

bikes available; golf and tennis nearby. An evocative and peaceful base for sightseeing.

DOUBLE ROOM, FROM $500; SUITE, FROM $630. ASSENSVEJ 513, 5642 MILLINGE. TEL. 62-68-11-11. FALSLEDKRO.DK

Falsled Kro

RECOMMENDED HOTELS

FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 SWEDEN 27

SWEDENBRIEFING Three hundred years ago, Sweden was one of the great powers of Europe.

However, most of its imperial territories were lost during the 18th and 19th centuries. For

example, the eastern half of Sweden, present-day Finland, was taken by Russia in 1809.

Today, Sweden consistently ranks at the top of lists for health and literacy in a nation,

far ahead of some much wealthier countries. Despite its northern location, Sweden is

warmer and drier than other places at a similar latitude, mainly because of the Gulf

Stream. The country’s 9.9 million citizens are mostly clustered in the southern Øresund

region, a verdant expanse dotted with mirror-like lakes. Much as in the other Nordic

countries, the majority of the population speaks English. The Swedes are justly proud

of the beauty of their country. Highlights include the rustic villages along the Bohuslän

coast, the ancient city of Uppsala (the setting of Bergman’s film “Fanny and Alexander”)

and the two great lakes Vänern and Vättern. Fully 15 percent of the country lies above

the Arctic Circle; Laponia, the largest tract of protected land in Europe, is laced with

pristine rivers and desolate glacial valleys.

WHEN TO VISIT The southern area of Sweden enjoys long, warm summers with many

hours of sunshine. Winter throughout the country is cold and dark.

STOCKHOLM


Average high 30 30 37 46 57 66 72 68 59 48 41 36

Average low 23 23 25 34 43 52 57 55 48 41 34 28

PM humidity 83 77 68 60 53 55 59 64 69 76 85 86

Days w/rain 16 14 10 11 11 12 13 14 14 15 16 17

Precip (in) 1.5 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 2.0 2.0


CURRENCY Swedish krona (SEK). Fluctuating rate valued at SEK8.55 = US$1.00 as of September 2016.

U.S. EMBASSY Stockholm, Tel. 8-783-53-00.

DIRECT DIAL CODES To phone hotels and restaurants in Sweden, dial 011 (international access) + 46 (Sweden code) + city code and local numbers.



“ Sweden is connected to Denmark by the five-mile-long Øresund

Bridge. From Copenhagen to Malmö it is a 45-minute drive.

SWEDEN MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM28

STOCKHOLM

BRIEFING Built on 14 major islands, Stockholm is an exceptionally attractive city at

the juncture of Lake Mälaren and the Baltic Sea. The city’s Old Town is a maze of narrow

medieval streets and baroque palaces, while elsewhere the architecture ranges from

the 18th-century Royal Palace to the Rafael Moneo-designed Museum of Modern Art.

Djurgården, the “Royal Game Park,” is a leafy oasis. Stureplan and Kungsgatan are

Stockholm’s main entertainment districts — home to many of its dozens of theaters and

performance venues — and Södermalm, an island south of the city center, is a hotbed

of fashion. Stockholm’s restaurants have been leaders in the global “fresh and local”

food revolution.

FROM MY NOTEBOOK

■ Although Stockholm today has one of Europe’s most innovative food scenes, I always

look forward to a traditional smörgåsbord. The term is now often used loosely to mean a

buffet, but a true Swedish smörgåsbord is a carefully organized four- to six-course meal.

At the Grand Hôtel, Veranda restaurant (SÖDRA BLASIEHOLMSHAMNEN 8) presents an absolutely

delicious example of the genre.

■ It is worth adding a day to your itinerary to cruise through the Stockholm archi-

pelago to Drottningholm Palace, Sweden’s Schönbrunn. The royal family still resides

in this elegant 17th-century palace surrounded by formal gardens. KUNGAHUSET.SE

■ For panoramic views of the city, walk along the Monteliusvägen path on Södermalm,

a short distance from the southern end of Gamla stan. Nearby, the streets around Mari-

atorget are lined with independent boutiques and restaurants.

■ Stockholm has one of Europe’s most unusual and impressive attractions, the Vasa, a

salvaged 17th-century warship that sank in the harbor on its maiden voyage. The vessel,

in startlingly good condition, is covered with elaborate woodcarvings. GALÄRVARVSVÄGEN 14.

Old Town (Gamla Stan) / © LEONARDO PATRIZI/ISTOCK

FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 SWEDEN 29

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS Sweden has always had its own distinctive cuisine, and

now a new generation of innovative chefs is building on that tradition to create exciting

fare that relies heavily on indigenous produce. (PRICES REFLECT APPROXIMATE COST OF DINNER PER

PERSON, EXCLUDING WINE)

GASTROLOGIK The best place to experience the sophisticated New Swedish style of

cuisine is at Gastrologik in the city’s Östermalm district. This intimate spot is the creation

of Executive Chef Jacob Holmström and baker Anton Bjuhr. The daily tasting menu is a

suite of surprises, but what is consistent is the use of local seasonal produce (a hallmark

of New Swedish cooking) as seen in dishes like oysters with fermented cucumber, and

braised oxtail with beer gelée and dried beetroot. Odd as the dishes here may sound,

they’re delicious. CLOSED SUNDAY AND MONDAY, OPEN FOR DINNER ONLY. ARTILLERIGATAN 14. TEL. 8-662-30-60.

PRIX FIXE MENU, US$167.

DEN GYLDENE FREDEN This cozy traditional Swedish restaurant in the medieval Gamla

stan area of Stockholm is perfect for anyone who wants to sample local specialties such

as smoked pike perch with potato terrine, horseradish, apple and rye bread; or Swedish

meatballs with mashed potatoes, cucumbers and lingonberries in a cream sauce. The

wood-floored dining room has an old-fashioned charm — service is courtly, and the wine

list is excellent. CLOSED SUNDAY. ÖSTERLÅNGGATAN 51. TEL. 8-24-97-60. US$85.

ROLFS KÖK Chefs Johan Andersson and Johan Jureskog’s intimate, casual bistro is

one of the most popular restaurants in Stockholm. This is where the city’s chefs come

on their nights off to dine on cosmopolitan comfort food. In addition to classics such

as fish stew with shrimps, clams, cream and aioli, the menu also offers more inventive

dishes, including cavatelli with scallops, pork belly and chanterelles; and roast of lamb

for two with cream, tarragon and cabbage. The long bar is ideal for solo dining. DINNER

ONLY SATURDAY AND SUNDAY. TEGNÉRGATAN 41. TEL. 8-101-696. US$95.

OAXEN KROG Set right by the water and occupying part of a renovated boat shed, this

atmospheric restaurant offers a nautical feel and terrific views. The food is modern

Nordic, or in the words of Magnus Ek, one of two chefs, “We cook our ingredients in a

modern way, but old and traditional techniques are the foundation of our approach.”

Look for dishes as lukewarm trout with sturgeon roe, grilled parsley and rhubarb; and

Linderöd pork glazed with garlic and cabbage with roasted almonds and sage. DINNER ONLY,

CLOSED SUNDAY AND MONDAY. BECKHOLMSVÄGEN 26. TEL. 8-551-531-05. SIX-COURSE MENU, US$188; 10-COURSE MENU, US$245.

“ Den Gyldene Freden, a cozy

traditional Swedish restaurant in

the medieval Gamla stan area of

Stockholm, is perfect for sampling

local specialties.

Meatballs with mashed potatoes and l ingonberries© JANN LIPK A

SWEDEN MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM30

Grand Hôtel A92 Landmark 368-room hotel at the edge of the harbor overlooking

the Royal Palace and Stockholm’s Old Town. Grand lobby features white marble flooring,

19th-century furnishings and bold color accents. Individually decorated lodgings, some

with waterfront views, are both traditional and contemporary in style and offer writing

desks, comfortable sitting areas and sleek marble baths. More-modern rooms in the

refurbished Burmanska Palace wing are recommended. Dining options include Veranda,

for superb classic smörgåsbord, and seasonal alfresco Terrasen, for Mediterranean-

inspired fare. Michelin two-star chef Mathias Dahlgren will open a new restaurant in

the first quarter of 2017. Lavish Nordic Spa & Fitness with eight treatment rooms, a pool,

hot saunas and cool dipping pools. DELUXE WATER VIEW ROOM, FROM $680; JUNIOR WATER VIEW SUITE, FROM

$830. SÖDRA BLASIEHOLMSHAMNEN 8, 103 27 STOCKHOLM. TEL. 8-679-35-00. GRANDHOTEL.SE P AH BENEFITS

Ett Hem A93 Exceptionally congenial 12-room hideaway in a 1910 art nouveau

mansion set within a brick-walled garden in the city’s quiet Lärkstaden district. Decorated

with marvelous attention to detail, bright rooms include features such as herringbone

oak parquet floors, crystal chandeliers, leather sofas, woodburning ceramic stoves and

baths with roomy white marble stall showers; most suites have private balconies and

separate sitting areas. A glass conservatory off the open kitchen offers a homey spot to

read and relax; also a terrace with chaises for relaxing in fine weather. Lunch and dinner

are served in the kitchen, more formally in the library or in the greenhouse. Also has a

wellness area with sauna, a lounge for massage treatments and a large, well-equipped

fitness room. Restaurants and shops nearby. DELUXE DOUBLE ROOM, FROM $600; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM

$850. SKÖLDUNGAGATAN 2, 114 27 STOCKHOLM. TEL. 8-20-05-90. ETTHEM.SE P AH BENEFITS

RECOMMENDED HOTELS

Lydmar Hotel A93 Stylish 46-room boutique hotel next door to the National

Museum on Stockholm’s harborside promenade, in a five-story 1829 structure that once

housed part of the museum’s archive. Guest rooms are grouped around engaging living-

room-like landings. Individually decorated accommodations offer city, waterfront or park

views and vary considerably in size. Attractively furnished in modern Swedish design,

lodgings include king-size beds, built-in cabinets, leather chairs and velvet curtains on

tall windows; spacious tiled baths have tub/showers. Amenities include an animated bar

and an inviting restaurant for French-influenced regional cuisine; frequent art shows

and small concerts. Relaxing terrace on the second floor for drinks and cocktails (open

May-September). No on-site spa or fitness facility. MEDIUM KING ROOM, FROM $600; LARGE STREET

ROOM, FROM $940. SÖDRA BLASIEHOLMSHAMNEN 2, 103 24 STOCKHOLM. TEL. 8-22-31-60. LYDMAR.COM P AH BENEFITS

“ Sweden, like Denmark, is a design-conscious country, and

its hotels are invariably stylish. I wish every major city could boast

the same.

FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 SWEDEN 31Ett Hem

NORWAY MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM32

BRIEFING Owing to large oil and gas deposits in the North and Norwegian seas,

Norway today ranks as one of the top 10 wealthiest countries in the world, with the largest

capital reserve per capita of any nation. Norway’s landscape is exceptionally dramatic;

in particular, the famous fjords comprise some of the most impressive coastal scenery

found anywhere. Because of Norway’s high latitude, from late May to late July much of

the country experiences up to 20 hours of light each day.

WHEN TO VISIT The coast of Norway is warmed by the Gulf Stream, and around

Oslo the climate is generally temperate. However, the country extends above the Arctic

Circle, where summers are pleasant, but winters are exceptionally cold.

OSLO


Average high 28 30 39 50 61 68 72 70 61 48 37 32

Average low 19 19 25 34 43 50 55 54 46 37 30 25

PM humidity 82 74 64 57 52 55 59 61 66 72 83 85

Days w/rain 15 12 9 11 10 13 15 14 14 14 16 17

Precip (in) 2.0 1.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 3.0 3.0 3.5 3.0 3.0 2.5 2.5


CU RRENCY Nor wegian krone (NOK). Fluctuating rate valued at NOK8.31 = US$1.00 as of September 2016.

U.S. EMBASSY Oslo, Tel. 2130-8540.

DIRECT DIAL CODES To phone hotels in Norway, dial 011 (international access) + 47 (Norway code) + city code and local numbers.



Nordfjord / © PAFF Y69/ISTOCK / THINKSTOCK

NORWAY

FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 NORWAY 33

Hotel Continental A94 Opulent family-run Victorian hotel in the heart of Oslo,

and opposite the National Theatre, with a fine art collection that includes prints by

Norwegian expressionist Edvard Munch. The 155 rooms are individually decorated in a

combination of classical and contemporary styles with elements such as hand-painted

wallpaper, soft fabrics and surprising touches of color; some offer views toward the harbor

and the fjord. Five restaurants and bars include the lovely Eik Annen Etage restaurant

for fine dining, plus Viennese-style Theatercaféen and the Steamen sidewalk café. Also

modern 24-hour fitness facilities on the fourth floor; massage treatments available by

appointment at an off-site spa/wellness center a five-minute walk from the hotel. DELUXE

ROOM, FROM $520; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $700. STORTINGSGATEN 24/26, N-0117 OSLO. TEL. 22-82-40-00. HOTELCONTINENTAL.NO

OSLO

BRIEFING Oslo occupies an arc of land at the northernmost end of the Oslofjord and

is surrounded by green hills and mountains. Although its population is small compared

with that of most European capitals (at about 660,000), the urban area is unusually

spread out. There are 40 islands within the city limits and no fewer than 343 lakes.

Oslo is one of the few major cities where people live with the wilderness literally in

their backyards. Suburban train lines allow the fortunate inhabitants to simply step

out of the carriage and start hiking or skiing. The city is an important maritime center

and hosts some of the world’s largest shipping companies, shipbrokers and insurance

brokers. Along with places such as Zurich and Tokyo, Oslo is often listed among the most

expensive cities in the world.

RECOMMENDED HOTELS

The Thief A91 Luxurious waterfront hotel in the center of the Tjuvholmen neigh-

borhood within walking distance of the Astrup Fearnley Museum of Modern Art. Public

areas are adorned with original contemporary artwork collected by the hotel’s owner,

Petter Stordalen. The 118 rooms feature large baths with rainfall showers (many with

separate tubs), floor-to-ceiling windows, private balconies and sitting areas furnished

with Antonio Citterio armchairs. The industrial-style restaurant offers Scandinavian-

inspired global cuisine; also Fru K for five- or seven-course menus that change season-

ally. Other amenities include a scenic rooftop terrace serving light snacks and cocktails

during summer months; an atmospheric lounge/library; and a full-service spa with

Turkish hammams, six treatment rooms, a 40-foot swimming pool and a gym. DELUXE ROOM,

FROM $400; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $640. LANDGANGEN 1, 0252 OSLO. TEL. 24-00-40-00. THETHIEF.COM

“ Edvard Munch grew up in Oslo, which is also the place where

he spent the last decades of his life. Today Oslo houses a majority of

Munch’s best-known masterpieces.

NORWAY MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM34

THE FJORDS

BRIEFING Virtually the entire coastline of Western Norway is indented by a succes-

sion of long, narrow fjords caused by glacial erosion. Hardangerfjord, Boknafjord and

Sognefjord are the best-known. The latter stretches for 127 miles inland from the ocean to

the small village of Skjolden. Typically the fjords have steep sides threaded by dramatic

waterfalls, with Syv Systre, Toka Gorge and Vøringsfossen among the most beautiful.

The coast is linked by a network of comfortable ferries from the Hurtigruten company,

which call at 34 ports between Bergen and Kirkenes. Western Norway consists of the

counties of Rogaland, Hordaland, Sogn og Fjordane and Møre og Romsdal. The region

has a population of approximately 1.3 million people, and the largest cities are Bergen

and Stavanger.

Alesund / © KENSORRIE/ISTOCK

Solstrand A95 Historic 1896 Swiss chalet-style hotel owned by the same family

for four generations on the shore of Bjørnefjord, less than 20 miles from downtown

Bergen. The 135 airy guest accommodations primarily employ oak, birch and soapstone

and feature original art and private balconies or garden patios. Be sure to request a

fjord-facing room. Gourmet seafood-oriented restaurant serves Western Norwegian

specialties. Other amenities include a beach with a bathing pier (open year-round);

30 acres of manicured gardens; and a wellness area comprising indoor and outdoor

swimming pools, a fitness center, hot therapy pools and a Finnish sauna. Yoga sessions,

boating excursions and kayaking tours available. EXECUTIVE ROOM, FROM $250; SOUTHWEST-FACING

DELUXE ROOM, FROM $340 (MEAL PLAN AVAILABLE). SOLSTRANDVEIEN 200, 5201 OS. TEL. 56-57-11-00. SOLSTRAND.COM

RECOMMENDED HOTELS

FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 NORWAY 35

Storfjord Hotel A92 Boutique 23-room hideaway set in Glomset on a hillside

overlooking the fjord and Sunmmøre Alps. Accommodations are done in a rustic-chic

décor with handcrafted log walls, dark wood and leather accents, classic Norwegian

furnishings and four-poster beds; feature lounge areas and private balconies with

forest or fjord views. The two-bedroom Storfjord Suite — featuring a fireplace, large

sitting and dining spaces and a luxury bath with freestanding tub and separate rainfall

shower — is ideal for families. The dining room serves regionally inspired cuisine that

primarily sources products from local farmers, cheesemakers and brewers. Fishing,

hiking, high-speed boating trips, kayaking and golf at a nearby 18-hole course available;

cooking classes can also be arranged. DELUXE DOUBLE, FROM $240; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $400 (MINIMUM

STAY MAY APPLY). ØVRE GLOMSET, N-6260 SKODJE. TEL. 70-27-49-22. STORFJORDHOTEL.COM

Hotel Union Øye A94 Tranquil manor house dating from 1891 in the small village

of Øye by the Norangsfjord and Sunmmøre Alps. Each of the 27 individually decorated

rooms and suites is named after the hotel’s past royal or dignitary guests including Kaiser

Wilhelm II, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle and Karen Blixen. Lodgings feature rich fabrics,

period furnishings and unique memorabilia and antiques; most offer four-poster beds

and baths with separate showers and tubs. Gracious public areas comprising multiple

lounges and a library are adorned with ornate chandeliers and carefully selected

artwork. Romantic three-course dinners that employ locally sourced ingredients are

served in the elegant Sun Lounge. Outdoor activities include sea safaris through the

majestic Hjørundfjord, hiking to the summit of Mount Slogen, rafting excursions, biking,

kayaking and skiing. DOUBLE ROOM, FROM $180. NO-6196 NORANGSFJORDEN. TEL. 70-06-21-00. UNIONOYE.NO

“ In Svalbard, Norway — the northernmost inhabited region of

Europe — there is no sunset from around April 19 to August 23.

Hotel Brosundet A90 Intimate 47-room waterfront property in a renovated

1904 warehouse, found along the historic old harbor in the city of Alesund. Designed

by renowned architectural firm Snøhetta, the chic guest rooms and suites feature art

nouveau interiors, white stained oak furnishings, a neutral color palette, exposed wooden

beams, glass paneling and baths with cream tiles and frosted glass. Opt for one of the

seaview accommodations. Restaurant MAKI specializes in seafood dishes and serves

four-course or six-course gourmet tasting menus in the evenings; an atmospheric bar

with modern lamps, leather chairs and a copper countertop offers an extensive wine

menu and cocktail list. Outdoor activities include sea rafting, fishing, trekking, biking,

helicopter tours and skiing; 18-hole Solnør Gaard golf course nearby. DOUBLE ROOM WITH SEA

VIEW, FROM $200. APOTEKERGATA 5, N-6004 ALESUND. TEL. 70-11-45-00. BROSUNDET.NO

FINLAND MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM36

Old Town, Helsinki / © SCANRAIL /ISTOCK / THINKSTOCK

FINLAND

BRIEFING Finland is Europe’s most sparsely populated country with about 5.4 million

inhabitants, more than a fifth of whom live in the Greater Helsinki area. Historically a

part of Sweden, and from 1809 an autonomous grand duchy within the Russian Empire,

Finland declared its independence in 1917. A country of lakes and islands, it is mostly

flat and forested.

WHEN TO VISIT Finland has a severe winter climate resembling that of Alaska. By

contrast, summers can be surprisingly warm. Beyond the Arctic Circle, the long dura-

tion of the midsummer sunshine compensates for the northerly latitude. The weather

can be changeable in all seasons, so be prepared.

HELSINKI


Average high 27 25 32 43 57 66 72 68 59 46 37 30

Average low 16 14 19 30 39 48 55 54 46 37 30 23

PM humidity 87 82 70 66 58 59 63 67 72 79 86 89

Days w/rain 20 18 14 13 12 13 14 15 15 18 19 20

Precip (in) 2.0 1.5 1.5 2.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.0 3.0 2.5 2.5

TIME Seven hours ahead of New York (EST).


U.S. EMBASSY Helsinki, Tel. 9-616-250.

DIRECT DIAL CODES To phone hotels in Finland, dial 011 (international access) + 358 (Finland code) + city code and local numbers.

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS Passport (valid for three months beyond end of stay). Visit travel.state.gov, and for travelers’ health information, cdc.gov.


FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 FINLAND 37

Hotel Kämp A93 Lavish 179-room historic hotel located opposite Esplanade Park

in the city’s principal upscale shopping area. A majestic circular lobby is surrounded by

huge fluted columns highlighted with gold leaf. While the interior is a faithful re-creation

of 19th-century opulence, renovations have added contemporary accents such as colorful

graphic prints to the public areas and Deluxe Rooms and upgraded all technological

amenities. Exceptionally comfortable rooms feature luxurious duvets and feather pillows,

plus marble baths with tubs, separate walk-in showers and heated floors. Stylish Yume

offers imaginative modern Asian cuisine; also elegant brasserie and stylish cocktail

bar. Facilities include a spa by ESPA with Finnish and Turkish saunas and a high-tech

gym staffed by personal trainers and nutritionists. DELUXE ROOM, FROM $400; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM

$750. POHJOISESPLANADI 29, 00100 HELSINKI. TEL. 9-576-111. HOTELKAMP.COM

HELSINKI

BRIEFING Helsinki was originally called Helsingfors when it was founded in 1550 by

King Gustav I of Sweden, and it was meant to be a rival to nearby Tallinn. Located on the

shore of the Gulf of Finland, it is spread across a number of islands. Helsinki’s neoclas-

sical architecture has earned it the epithet “the White City of the North.” However, it

is also famous for its art nouveau buildings. The leading figure of Finnish art nouveau

was Eliel Saarinen, whose masterpiece is Helsinki Central railway station. Owing to the

northern latitude, midwinter days last fewer than six hours. Conversely, summer days

extend for almost 19 hours at the solstice.

Hotel Kämp / © RIIKK A K ANTINKOSKI

RECOMMENDED HOTELS

BALTIC STATES MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM38

RUSSIA(EXCLAVE)

FYN

SJÆLLAND

LOLLAND

SAAREMAA

HIIUMAA

JYLLAND

MUHU

GOTLAND

ALAND

N o r w e g i a n

S e a

B a r e n t s S e a

N o r t h

S e aB a l t i c

S e a

G u l f

o f

R i ga

G u l f o f F i n l a n d

S k a g e r r a k

K a t t e ga t

SWEDEN

RU

SS

IA

FINLAND

BELARUSPOLAND

NORWAY

LITHUANIA

LATVIA

GERMANY

ESTONIA

DENMARK

STOCKHOLM

OSLO

VILNIUS

RIGA

HELSINKI

TALLINN

COPENHAGEN

ST. PETERSBURG

LILLEHAMMER

ODENSE

AARHUS

ICELAND(965 MILES EAST OF TRONDHEIM, NORWAY)

REYKJAVIK

0 130 MI65

0 130 KM65

3

2

BERGEN

TRONDHEIM

2

1

4

TARTU

DAUGAVPILS

KAUNAS

LIEPAJA

KLAIPEDA

1 The Three Sisters

2 Pädaste Manor

3 Hotel Bergs

4 Stikliai Hotel

BALTIC STATES


FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 ESTONIA 39

ESTONIABRIEFING This tiny country has been pulled to and fro throughout the ages. Sweden

ceded control to Russia in the 18th century, and following a window of independence

beginning in 1918, Estonia was usurped by the Soviet Union after World War II. Today,

Estonia is a member of the European Union. Tallinn, on the Gulf of Finland, is the capital

and commercial center, with a splendid walled medieval city at its heart. In the southeast,

Tartu, the second-largest city, is an academic center with student-filled cafés, markets,

bistros, a wealth of museums and magnificently restored churches. About 1,500 islands

lie off the country’s craggy coast. Muhu is among the most picturesque: a mossy, wooded

refuge centered on a charming 16th-century village.

WHEN TO VISIT Estonia has a temperate climate. The weather is typically breezy

and humid because of the country’s proximity to the Baltic Sea. The western coastal

areas are noticeably warmer than the inland regions. July is the ideal month for a visit.

TALLINN


Average high 25 25 32 45 57 66 68 66 59 50 37 28

Average low 14 14 19 32 41 50 54 52 48 39 30 19

PM humidity 86 83 77 66 63 55 59 64 69 79 86 87

Days w/rain 19 16 13 11 12 10 13 15 16 17 18 19

Precip (in) 1.5 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.5 1.5 2.5 3.0 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5



U.S. EMBASSY Tallinn, Tel. 668-8100.

DIRECT DIAL CODES To phone hotels in Estonia, dial 011 (international access) + 372 (Estonia code) + city code and local numbers.

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS Passport (valid for three months beyond end of stay). Visit travel.state.gov, and for travelers’ health information, cdc.gov.

GENERAL INFORMATION Visit visitestonia.com before your trip.

“ Many people visit Tallinn during the course of a Scandinavian

cruise. Personally, I think the city and the Baltic states in general

deserve more thorough investigation on a leisurely journey done

by car.

ESTONIA MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM40

TALLINN

BRIEFING The Estonian capital of Tallinn is one of the most delightful destinations

in the Baltic countries. Its Old Town is one of the best-preserved in Europe, surrounded

by thick medieval walls that are punctuated by imposing watchtowers. Having escaped

from a much-hated 45-year Soviet bear hug, Tallinn now offers a prewar cityscape,

a lively café scene, excellent restaurants and fascinating, imaginatively presented

museums. The Old Town is a stroller’s delight: As in many medieval European cities,

you generally can’t go wrong by beginning your ambles in the central square (“Raekoja

plats”) and radiating outward from there. At Toompea, the hill on which sit the remains

of the castle the city was founded around, you can finish your day with a drink inside

the Neitsitorn (“Maiden’s Tower”). The views are tremendous.

The Three Sisters / © RELAIS & CHATEAUX

RECOMMENDED HOTELS

The Three Sisters A93 Luxurious boutique hotel of 23 rooms and suites created

from three gabled merchants’ houses dating from 1362 and well-located on a quiet, cobbled

medieval street in the city’s picturesque Old Town. Every room is individually decorated,

but all feature exposed beams, parquet floors, goose-down duvets and a mix of antique

and contemporary furniture. Brazilian slate baths are appointed with power showers

and modern fixtures. Preferred lodgings are the attic suites, the singular charm of which

comes from their many dormer windows and skylights. Exceptional small restaurant

serves contemporary French cuisine and is further distinguished by an outstanding

wine cellar (live piano music on weekends). In-room massages are available. DELUXE ROOM,

FROM $280; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $420. PIKK 71, TOLLI 2, 10133 TALLINN. TEL. 630-6300. THREESISTERSHOTEL.COM

FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 ESTONIA 41

Pädaste Manor

Pädaste Manor A95 Tranquil and exquisitely restored 24-room manor house

on the tiny island of Muhu. Set beside the Baltic, the property comprises the original

19th-century mansion, plus two wings of fieldstone outbuildings. Duplex Junior Suites

have private balconies and are comfortably furnished with feather duvets and Estonian

linen coverlets. At dusk, the grounds of the estate are lit by flaming torches, and dinner

is served at the edge of the sea. Fine dining at Alexander restaurant; wine tasting in

the cellar. Superb spa offers a variety of indigenous treatments, including mud wraps

(the locals have been daubing themselves with the stuff for centuries), “baths” in newly

mown hay, and relaxing soaks in seawater heated by a woodburning stove. DELUXE MANOR

HOUSE ROOM, FROM $450; JUNIOR CARRIAGE HOUSE SUITE, FROM $720. 94716 MUHU ISLAND. TEL. 454-8800. PADASTE.EE

MUHU ISLAND

BRIEFING It is an easy and pleasant two-hour drive south from Tallinn to the port of

Virtsu, where you board the ferry for the hourlong crossing to the tiny island of Muhu.

Along the way, the road meanders through pine forests and pastures dotted with wild-

flowers. In winter, Muhu is connected to the mainland by an ice road.

“ Muhu is scenic, pastoral and untouched by the outside world.

The island is famous for its rare orchids and migratory birds.

RECOMMENDED HOTELS

LATVIA MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM42

LATVIA

BRIEFING Like its neighbors Estonia (to the north) and Lithuania (south), Latvia has

frequently found itself embroiled in grand geopolitical struggles. It emerged as an inde-

pendent republic from the Soviet shadow in the 1990s, and it joined the European Union

barely a decade later. Riga, the capital, mingles modern and medieval architecture, but

its suburbs are dreary with Soviet concrete. Latvians embrace the long northern winters

with skiing and ice sculpture. In spring and summer, citizens head for the rugged coasts

and their long stretches of sand. Jūrmala, 24 miles from the capital, is a thriving resort

town. The countryside is well-stocked with stately castles and manors.

WHEN TO VISIT Proximity to the sea brings high levels of precipitation. Despite the

country’s northern latitude, the effects of the Gulf Stream keep the climate moderate.



U.S. EMBASSY Riga, Tel. 671-07-000.

DIRECT DIAL CODES To phone hotels in Latvia, dial 011 (international access) + 371 (Latvia code) + city code and local numbers.


GENERAL INFORMATION Visit latvia.travel before your trip.

RECOMMENDED HOTELS

Hotel Bergs A90 Stylish and contemporary 38-room hotel housed within a 19th-

century brick building in central Riga, a short walk from Old Town. Public spaces feature

checkerboard tile floors; art nouveau fireplaces; and a mixture of Latvian antiques,

contemporary art and African masks. Light, spacious rooms have dark wood floors, white

walls hung with contemporary art, full kitchenettes, modern baths (with heated floors)

and clean-lined chairs and sofas. Large Loft Suites have mezzanine bedrooms reached

by wooden circular staircases. Also features a countryside residence in a historic manor

house for family gatherings or executive retreats. Excellent Restaurant Bergs offers

contemporary/Continental cuisine, plus summer terrace and glass veranda. Massage

room and small gym; swimming pool, golf and tennis available nearby. LOFT SUITE, FROM $320;

PENTHOUSE SUITE, FROM $460. BERGS BAZAAR, 83/85 ELIZABETES STREET, 1050 RIGA. TEL. 677-70-900. HOTELBERGS.LV

Riga / © VISUALSPACE/ISTOCK

FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 LITHUANIA 43

BRIEFING The southernmost of the three former Soviet Baltic republics, Lithuania

was the first to declare its renewed independence (in 1990). In common with the other

Baltic capitals, Vilnius’ Old Town center is a UNESCO World Heritage site. To the west, the

cities of Kaunas and Trakai have dramatic castles, and the latter hosts a national opera,

ballet and symphony. Kernavė, the ancient capital, was a medieval town destroyed in

the late 14th century. In the summer, it is now the setting for colorful folklore festivals.

Lithuania’s forests and marshlands are preserved in numerous national parks, many

of which also host “ethnographic reserves,” where old villages with unpaved roads and

thatched-roof farmsteads are protected alongside the rare birds and old-growth pines.

WHEN TO VISIT Lithuania has both maritime and continental climates, with inland

areas conspicuously colder than the coast. Summers are mild and wet.



U.S. EMBASSY Vilnius, Tel. 5-266-5500.

DIRECT DIAL CODES To phone hotels in Lithuania, dial 011 (international access) + 370 (Lithuania code) + city code and local numbers.


GENERAL INFORMATION Visit lithuania.travel before your trip.

RECOMMENDED HOTELS

Stikliai Hotel A91 Ideally located 43-room hotel comprised of a complex of

16th-century houses with baroque and Gothic features in the center of picturesque Old

Town. Junior Suites are richly decorated in classic and contemporary styles and include

bedrooms with four-poster king-size beds and living/sitting room areas. Ample marble

baths provide heated floors, deep soaking tubs and separate glass-walled showers.

Romantic gourmet restaurant with vaulted glass roof serves seasonally inspired regional

cuisine; a vaulted basement tavern for Lithuanian and European dishes; and a bar in the

main lobby with a fireplace, light fare menu and billiard room. Library, indoor heated

swimming pool in the cellar, sauna, spa treatment room and gym. JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $500;

SUITE, FROM $620. GAONO STR. 7, 01131 VILNIUS. TEL. 5-264-9595. STIKLIAI.COM

LITHUANIATrakai Castle / © VIDAS K AUPELIS/ISTOCK / THINKSTOCK

POLAND MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM44

POLAND

BRIEFING Poland is a country of immense beauty: the Baltic seacoast, the lake districts

bordering Lithuania and Belarus, the ancient forests of the middle country, the Carpathian

mountain ranges to the south. Most visitors are drawn to Kraków, which rivals Prague

in medieval splendor. A three-hour train ride south of Warsaw, this romantic Baroque

city (undamaged during World War II) is a treasure trove of Polish art and architecture.

WHEN TO VISIT The climate of Poland is quite consistent, although it is generally

cooler as you move east and south. Winters are long, and summers are showery. July

is the ideal month for a visit.

WARSAW


Average high 32 32 43 54 68 73 75 73 66 55 43 36

Average low 21 21 28 37 48 54 59 57 50 41 34 27

PM humidity 84 80 70 61 56 59 63 63 64 73 83 87

Days w/rain 15 14 11 13 11 13 16 13 12 12 12 16

Precip (in) 1.0 1.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 4.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 1.5


CURRENCY Polish zloty (PLN). Fluctuating rate valued at PLN3.89 = US$1.00 as of September 2016. Some hotels quote rates in euros (€); €1.00 = US$1.12 as of September 2016.

U.S. EMBASSY Warsaw, Tel. 22-504-2000. Consulate: Kraków, Tel. 12-424-5100. A U.S. consular agent is located in Poznan, Tel. 61-851-8516.

DIRECT DIAL CODES To phone hotels in Poland, dial 011 (international access) + 48 (Poland code) + city code and local numbers.


GENERAL INFORMATION Visit poland.travel before your trip.

Old Town, Warsaw / © ROSSHELEN/ISTOCK / THINKSTOCK

FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 POLAND 45

WARSAW

GDANSKSOPOT

KRAKOW

B a l t i c S e a

GE

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CZECHREPUBLIC

SLOVAKIA UK

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Malbork Castle

AUSTRIA

1 Hotel Bristol Mamaison Hotel Le Regina

2 Hotel Copernicus

3 Kania Lodge

4 Hotel Podewils



WARSAW

Hotel Bristol A92 Prestigious 206-room turn-of-the-century hotel on the city’s most

fashionable street, a short stroll from the Old Town district, Royal Castle and National

Opera. Elegantly designed guest rooms, many with balconies, feature high ceilings;

chandeliers; marble baths; small sitting areas; and views of the park, the Presidential

Palace or the stylish “King’s Walk.” Beautifully restored public areas include the classic

rotunda lobby, the excellent Marconi Restaurant for classic Polish fare and the popular

Viennese-style Café Bristol, plus an inviting piano bar and a wine bar with a summer

terrace. There is also a health/fitness club with steam room, sauna, massage room and

heated indoor swimming pool. High level of personal service. JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $400; GRAND

SUITE, FROM $580. KRAKOWSKIE PRZEDMIESCIE 42/44, 00-325 WARSAW. TEL. 22-551-1000. HOTELBRISTOLWARSAW.PL

Mamaison Hotel Le Regina A92 Stylish 61-room (three suites) boutique hotel

set within a restored 18th-century palace in a quiet area of Warsaw, close to the Old Town,

a picturesque park, the National Opera and the Vistula River. Guest rooms, decorated

in palettes of natural colors, are appointed with elegant, Italian-made custom wooden

furniture; marble-floored baths provide twin vanities and combination tub/showers.

Spacious and comfortable Deluxe Rooms feature small terraces and oak floors; suites

include roomy living areas. The hotel restaurant, La Rotisserie, is open to a courtyard in

summer and serves Italian- and Polish-inflected French cuisine. Other amenities include

a modern fitness center, indoor swimming pool, sauna and massage room. DELUXE ROOM,

FROM $350; SUITE, FROM $515. KOSCIELNA 12, 00-218 WARSAW. TEL. 22-531-6000. MAMAISONLEREGINA.COM

BRIEFING Warsaw is located on the Vistula River about 230 miles from the Baltic Sea.

Its mixture of architectural styles reflects the city’s turbulent history — in World War

II, Warsaw was razed by the Nazis, resulting in the deaths of around 200,000 civilians.

Nowadays, the Old Town has been completely restored, and its fine medieval architecture

includes the city walls and the majestic 14th-century St. John’s Archcathedral. Many

of Warsaw’s museums suffered irreparable damage in the war; however, in July 2004

the Warsaw Rising Museum opened in the district of Wola. The renowned International

Chopin Piano Competition takes place in Warsaw every five years, the next occasion

being 2020.

RECOMMENDED HOTELS

“ Chopin was born near Warsaw in 1810. By the age of seven he

had composed two polonaises, one in G minor and one in B-flat major,

and he had started making public performances.

FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 POLAND 47

KRAKOW

BRIEFING Until 1596, Kraków was the capital of Poland. The city has traditionally been

one of the leading centers of Polish cultural life. The current plan of the Old Town (Stare

Miasto) was laid out in the 13th century and features a Main Square (Rynek Główny),

which is the largest medieval town square in Europe. At the center of the square is the

Renaissance Sukiennice (Cloth Hall), which features the National Museum art gallery.

FROM MY NOTEBOOK

■ Many visitors find their way to the famous Wierzynek restaurant, which serves

classic Polish cuisine (RYNEK GŁÓWNY 16). Additionally, the artists’ café Jama Michalika has

literary associations extending back more than a century (FLORIANSKA 45).

■ Kraków also has one of the great small museums in Europe, housed in the stately

Czartoryski Palace. Leonardo da Vinci’s stunning “Lady with an Ermine” alone is worth

the price of admission (CZARTORYSKICH 8).

Hotel Copernicus A92 Charming 29-room boutique hotel housed in a Gothic

residence that fronts a picturesque old street near the Royal Castle. Medieval portals,

15th-century decorative wood ceilings and Renaissance artifacts accent the restored

interior, which includes a traditional restaurant and bar, library, atrium courtyard, wine-

tasting cellar and panoramic rooftop terrace. Guest rooms feature handsome wood and

leather furnishings, high ceilings, period furniture, tall windows, fine draperies, wood

floors and baths finished in travertine and marble. Junior Suites, two with striking castle

and church views, include separate sitting rooms. Amenities include an indoor pool and

small Spa by L’Occitane housed in the medieval cellars of the house. LUXURY DOUBLE ROOM,

FROM $280; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $340. UL. KANONICZA 16, 31-002 KRAKÓW. TEL. 12-424-3400. COPERNICUS.HOTEL.COM.PL

Hotel Copernicus

RECOMMENDED HOTELS


GDANSK REGION

BRIEFING Gdańsk (formerly Danzig) is situated on the Baltic coast of northern Poland

in the region of Pomerania. Poland’s principal seaport, the city has had a complex political

history, with periods of both Polish and German rule as well as two spells as a free city.

Gdańsk was the birthplace of the Solidarity movement that, under the leadership of Lech

Wałęsa, played a major role in bringing an end to communist rule across central Europe.

Nowadays, the Old Town has been scrubbed clean, and its cobblestoned streets are lined

with picturesque burgher houses and Gothic churches. Gdańsk forms a so-called “Tri-

City” with Gdynia and the Baltic beach resort of Sopot, which has a population of about

40,000 people and is 20 minutes by train from Gdańsk. A fashionable seaside spa town

during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Sopot derives much of its character from

its art nouveau townhouses and villas.

Hotel Podewils A90 Charming and comfortable 10-room hotel occupying an

attractive 1728 stone mansion in the Old Town of Gdańsk on the banks of the Motława

River, with views over the city’s marina and minutes from the Central Maritime Museum.

Spacious and comfortable color-themed rooms are individually decorated and include

patterned walls, period furniture, thick carpeting, brass chandeliers and traditional

furnishings; most offer marble baths with whirlpool tubs and hydromassage showers.

Fine 26-seat seafood-oriented Polish restaurant with a notable wine list; in summer,

meals are served on a delightful terrace beside the river. Finnish and Turkish sauna

available; in-room massage treatments can be arranged. DELUXE ROOM, FROM $200; DOUBLE DELUXE

ROOM, FROM $240. SZAFARNIA ST. 2, 80-755 GDANSK. TEL. 58-300-9560. PODEWILS.PL

RECOMMENDED HOTELS

Kania Lodge A92 Delightful and hospitable 15-room contemporary country house

hotel set in beautifully landscaped gardens, 20 miles west of Gdańsk on the tranquil

shores of Jezioro Biale (White Lake) in the rural Kaszuby region. Comfortable and pleas-

ingly decorated accommodations feature oak floors and modern paintings; some have

cast-iron woodburning stoves and private terraces overlooking the lake and gardens.

Renowned restaurant offers a menu that uses local and seasonal ingredients and has a

superb wine list. The property has its own vineyard and tasting room, and distills its own

vodka. Other amenities include a tennis court, a private jetty and beach, a spa room with

sauna and Jacuzzi. There are boats avaiable, plus bicycles for cycling in surrounding

woods; golf and horseback riding nearby. DOUBLE ROOM, FROM $180; SUITE, FROM $215. SYTNA GÓRA 10,

83-300 KARTUZY. TEL. 58-681-0677. KANIALODGE.COM.PL

FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 POLAND 49St. Mary’s Street (Old Town), Gdansk© NIGHTMAN1965/ISTOCK

RUSSIA MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM50

RUSSIABRIEFING The largest country in the world, Russia is about 5,600 miles from west to

east (at the two most widely separated points) and encompasses no fewer than 11 time

zones. Its landscape comprises expanses of tundra, taiga (coniferous forest), deserts

and steppes. Over the past decade, Siberia and the Arctic Circle have opened up to

ecotourism and hunting expeditions, while the dramatic Kamchatka Peninsula offers

exceptional fly-fishing.

WHEN TO VISIT Subfreezing temperatures are normal in Moscow from mid-October

until mid-April; summers can be surprisingly warm and sunny.

MOSCOW


Average high 16 21 32 50 66 70 73 72 61 48 36 23

Average low 3 7 18 34 46 52 55 54 45 37 27 14

PM humidity 77 66 64 54 43 47 54 55 59 67 79 83

Days w/rain 18 15 15 13 13 12 15 14 13 15 15 23

Precip (in) 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 2.0 2.0

ST. PETERSBURG


Average high 19 23 32 46 59 68 70 68 59 48 36 27

Average low 9 10 18 32 43 52 55 54 48 39 28 18

PM humidity 84 73 70 65 57 53 61 61 68 78 85 86

Days w/rain 21 17 14 12 13 12 13 14 17 18 18 22

Precip (in) 1.5 1.0 1.0 1.5 2.0 3.0 3.0 2.5 2.5 3.0 2.0 1.5

TIME Moscow is seven hours ahead of New York (EST).

CURRENCY Ruble (RUB). Fluctuating rate valued at RUB65.1 = US$1.00 as of September 2016.

U.S. EMBASSY Moscow, Tel. 495-728-5000. Consulates: St. Petersburg, Tel. 812-331-2600; Yekaterinburg, Tel. 343-379-3001; Vladivostok, Tel. 423-230-0070.

DIRECT DIAL CODES To phone hotels in Russia, dial 011 (international access) + 7 (Russia code) + city code and local numbers.

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS Passport (valid for six months beyond end of stay) and visa. Visit travel.state.gov, and for travelers’ health information, cdc.gov.

GENERAL INFORMATION Visit russia-travel.com before your trip.

“ I once flew from Moscow to Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky on

the Kamchatka Peninsula. After a nine-hour flight, we banked over

the Pacific, I caught a glimpse of snowcapped volcanoes, and we

landed — still in the same country.

FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 RUSSIA 51

NORTH ATLANTICOCEAN

ARCTIC OCEAN

NORTH

PACIFIC

OCEAN

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Sea

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PersianGulf

KaraSea

LaptevSea

East SiberianSea

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Occupied bySoviet Union in 1945

Administered by Russia,claimed by Japan

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R U S S I A

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TURKMENISTAN

AFGHANISTAN

TAJ.

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U.S.

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YAROSLAVL

1 Ararat Park Hyatt Four Seasons

2 Four Seasons Lion Palace Belmond Grand Hotel Europe Hotel Astoria



MOSCOW

BRIEFING Many people expect Moscow to be drab and gray, but in fact, the massive

red walls of the Kremlin and the gilded domes of the churches make it surprisingly

colorful and exotic. Situated on the banks of the Moskva River, Moscow is among the

largest cities in the world, and it is frequently cited as having the greatest number of

billionaires. Moscow has had an extraordinarily violent history, and in 1571, it was

sacked by Crimean Tatars and burned to the ground. In 1812, at the time of Napoleon’s

invasion, a fire destroyed three-quarters of the city, and during the Battle of Moscow in

1941, a million Nazi soldiers supported by 14,000 artillery pieces were driven off by the

defenders. Moscow is home to The State Tretyakov Gallery’s treasure trove of Russian

art and the famed Bolshoi Ballet.

FROM MY NOTEBOOK

■ No visitor to Moscow misses the Kremlin, but few can access the Palace of Facets, the

main banquet reception hall of the Muscovite czars that was restored at a cost of some

$300 million. A private visit can be arranged through my preferred ground operator

in Russia, Exeter International. EXETERINTERNATIONAL.COM

■ Favorite Moscow dining experiences include Turandot (TVERSKOY BOULEVARD 26 BUILDING 3,

TEL. 495-739-0011), with its only-in-Russia over-the-top opulence; Varvary (STRASTNOY BOULEVARD 8A,

TEL. 495-229-2800), which presents molecular gastronomy-style Russian classics; and C.D.L.

(POVARSKAYA STREET 50/53, TEL. 495-663-3003), serving upscale traditional cuisine in a restored

19th-century mansion. Note that dress tends to be more formal and prices higher than

you might expect.

■ One fascinating sight many travelers overlook is Stalin’s bunker in Izmailovo in the

eastern suburbs of Moscow, which is preserved exactly as it was during World War II.

The Kremlin and Peter the Great Statue on the Moskva River / © VASILYSMIRNOV/ISTOCK / THINKSTOCK


Ararat Park Hyatt A94 Sleek 208-room (29 suites) contemporary hotel, well-

located adjacent to the Bolshoi Theatre and only a short walk from Red Square and the

stylish shops of Tverskaya Street. Spacious accommodations feature fine linens and

feather duvets; generous work areas; and marble baths with oak panels, heated floors,

soaking tubs and walk-in rainfall showers. Three dining venues are highlighted by Cafe

Ararat, an excellent Armenian restaurant; also featured is Enoki, a minimalist Japanese

sushi bar, and two bar/lounges. A sophisticated health club and spa includes an indoor

heated swimming pool, dry sauna, Roman bath, health bar and fitness area (personal

trainers available). A variety of cooking classes are offered. PARK DELUXE ROOM, FROM $620; PARK

SUITE, FROM $920. 4 NEGLINNAYA STREET, 125009 MOSCOW. TEL. 495-783-1234. MOSCOW.PARK.HYATT.COM

Four Seasons A94 Modern 180-room hotel — a replica of the historic 1930s-era

Hotel Moskva — in a landmark location near Red Square, the Kremlin and the State Duma.

Higher-story corner Grand Premier Rooms, in neutral tones accented with bold colors

and patterned carpets, provide views of Moscow’s historic landmarks. Marble-paneled

baths include changing areas, deep soaking tubs and separate showers. Some suites

include no-smoke fireplaces, dining tables and infrared saunas. Gourmet Italian restau-

rant, elegant lobby lounge, lively bistro and fashionable bar. Chic 32,000-square-foot spa

with 14 treatment rooms, salon services, a fitness center and a mosaic-tiled heated lap

pool with adjacent café in a glass-roofed courtyard on the fifth floor. GRAND PREMIER ROOM,

FROM $730; EXECUTIVE SUITE, FROM $1,250. 2 OKHOTNY RYAD, 109012 MOSCOW. TEL. 499-277-7100. FOURSEASONS.COM

“ The Bolshoi Ballet has an intense rivalry with the Mariinsky

company in St. Petersburg. Each has a distinct style: the Bolshoi’s

approach is bold and colorful, whereas the Mariinsky is associated

with refined classicism.

RECOMMENDED HOTELS

Four Seasons / © PETER VITALE


ST. PETERSBURG

BRIEFING Built along the banks of the Neva River, Russia’s second city is spectacu-

larly beautiful, with immense neoclassical palaces painted in pastel colors and a skyline

punctuated by the glinting golden domes of Orthodox churches. Constructed on more

than 100 islands in the Neva estuary, it has a remarkable network of canals spanned by

342 major bridges. The city also contains one of the world’s greatest museums, the State

Hermitage Museum (or just “the Hermitage”), which houses more than 3 million works

of art along with the Russian imperial regalia. Following the Bolshevik Revolution, St.

Petersburg was regarded as a place tainted by Westernization, and in Soviet eyes it was

only rehabilitated by the epic 900-day siege in World War II, during which 1.2 million

citizens perished (40 percent of the prewar population).

FROM MY NOTEBOOK

■ Catherine Palace (7 SADOVAYA STREET), with its opulent Amber Room, and the extravagant

Peterhof (2 RAZVODNAYA STREET), built for Peter the Great, have been sumptuously restored

after severe damage during World War II. But the region’s most atmospheric palace is

the Oranienbaum (DVORTSOVY PROSPECT 50) outside of the city, which survived the war nearly

intact.

■ The Fabergé Museum, housed in the neoclassical Shuvalov Palace, displays impe-

rial Easter eggs formerly owned by the Forbes family. 21 FONTANKA RIVER EMBANKMENT.

■ The Volga Dream takes passengers on river cruises between Moscow and St. Peters-

burg, including stops at fascinating and lesser-known places in-between. VOLGADREAM.COM

■ One of the city’s most luxurious restaurants is Palkin, which serves lavish renditions

of Russian classics. NEVSKY PROSPEKT 47.

Belmond Grand Hotel Europe / © ROBERTO BONARDI


Four Seasons Lion Palace A94 Ornate, beautifully restored 1817 palace with

157 guest rooms and 26 suites in the historic Admiralteysky District. Two Renaissance

marble lions flank the entryway; historic details include grand main stairway, vaulted

ceilings, paneled walls, elaborate moldings and gold-and-bronze accents. Light and airy

accommodations feature high ceilings, large windows and full marble baths; rooms on the

fifth floor provide private terraces with views of Saint Isaac’s Cathedral. Elegant Italian

restaurant, plus glass-enclosed The Tea Lounge, a lively Pan-Asian restaurant and cozy

Xander Bar. Four-level glass-topped spa with eight treatment rooms, a triangular indoor

vitality pool, a Russian steam room and a fitness center. DELUXE ROOM, FROM $450; DELUXE ONE-

BEDROOM SUITE, FROM $850. 1 VOZNESENSKY PROSPEKT, 190000 ST. PETERSBURG. TEL. 812-339-8000. FOURSEASONS.COM

Hotel Astoria A92 Atmospheric 169-room (86 suite) hotel built in 1912 on St. Isaac’s

Square, opposite St. Isaac’s Cathedral and a short walk from the Hermitage Museum.

Grand public areas include the stylish Rotonda Lounge for traditional afternoon tea;

popular Lichfield Bar; and the Astoria Café, a sophisticated French-inspired Russian

restaurant serving a wide choice of caviars. Stylish Junior Suites, many with views of

the cathedral, feature parquet wood floors and Russian ceramics and artworks; Italian

marble baths provide heated floors and separate walk-in showers. Two sophisticated

spas: La Maison de Beauté Carita, with a full-service treatment menu; and Astoria Spa,

with gym, sauna and hammam. SUPERIOR DELUXE ROOM, FROM $600; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $830. 39 BOLSHAYA

MORSKAYA, 190000 ST. PETERSBURG. TEL. 812-494-5757. ROCCOFORTEHOTELS.COM P AH BENEFITS

Belmond Grand Hotel Europe A93 Restored 266-room landmark hotel

on Nevsky Prospekt in the heart of the city, adjacent to Arts Square. Accommodations

feature traditional furniture, Russian artwork and marble baths; atmospheric Historic

Rooms offer period details, high ceilings, butler service and fine views of Arts Square

and the Philharmonic Hall. Baroque façade opens to beautiful public areas where the

magnificent restaurant L’Europe — complete with a turn-of-the-century stained-glass

roof — serves French-inspired cuisine in an art nouveau setting; also features AZIA for

Asian fusion dishes. Caviar Bar & Restaurant offers the services of a vodka sommelier.

Well-equipped gym with plunge pool and sauna, plus beauty salon with massage rooms.

Also a shopping arcade with designer boutiques. HISTORIC ROOM, FROM $520; BELLE CHAMBRE JUNIOR

SUITE, FROM $750. NEVSKY PROSPEKT, MIKHAILOVSKAYA ULITSA 1/7, 191186 ST. PETERSBURG. TEL. 812-329-6000. BELMOND.COM

RECOMMENDED HOTELS

“ During the White Nights Festival one June, I joined some of the

city’s inhabitants on the banks of the Neva River to drink Russian

Champagne. Afterwards, we took a 1 a.m. stroll in the Summer Garden.

NETHERLANDS

AMSTERDAMConservatorium ....................................................... 7

InterContinental Amstel ........................................... 7

Canal House ............................................................. 8

Hotel Seven One Seven ............................................ 8

De L’Europe .............................................................. 8

THE HAGUEHotel Des Indes ........................................................ 9

VREELANDDe Nederlanden ..................................................... 10

ZEELANDInter Scaldes ........................................................... 11

MAASTRICHT AREA

Kasteel Wittem ........................................................ 11

BELGIUM

ANTWERPDe Witte Lelie ......................................................... 13

BRUGESHotel De Tuilerieën ................................................. 15

The Pand Hotel ....................................................... 15

Guesthouse Bonifacius ........................................... 15

BRUSSELSHotel Amigo ........................................................... 18

Stanhope Hotel ...................................................... 18

ARDENNESMoulin Hideux ........................................................ 19

DENMARK

COPENHAGENHôtel d’Angleterre .................................................. 25

ISLAND OF FUNEN

Falsled Kro ............................................................. 26

SWEDEN

STOCKHOLMEtt Hem .................................................................30

Lydmar Hotel..........................................................30

Grand Hôtel............................................................30

NORWAY

OSLOHotel Continental ................................................... 33

The Thief * ............................................................ 33

THE FJORDSSolstrand * ........................................................... 34

Hotel Union Øye * .................................................. 35

Storfjord Hotel * .................................................... 35

Hotel Brosundet * .................................................. 35

FINLAND

HELSINKI

Hotel Kämp ............................................................ 37

ESTONIA

TALLINNThe Three Sisters ...................................................40

MUHU ISLAND

Pädaste Manor ....................................................... 41

LATVIA

RIGA

Hotel Bergs ............................................................ 42

LITHUANIA

VILNIUSStikliai Hotel .......................................................... 43

POLAND

WARSAWHotel Bristol ........................................................... 46

Mamaison Hotel Le Regina ...................................... 46

KRAKOWHotel Copernicus ................................................... 47

GDANSKKania Lodge ........................................................... 48

Hotel Podewils ....................................................... 48

RUSSIA

MOSCOWArarat Park Hyatt ................................................... 53

Four Seasons ......................................................... 53

ST. PETERSBURGFour Seasons Lion Palace ....................................... 55

Belmond Grand Hotel Europe .................................. 55

Hotel Astoria .......................................................... 55

Let the Andrew Harper Travel Office help to smooth your passage. Many subscribers establish enduring relationships with individual travel advisors, who, henceforth, handle everything for them — consulting regional specialists when necessary. I brief advisors personally when I return from trips. As a result, their understanding of the expected luxury hotel standards is unequaled. Call (800) 375-4685.

RECOMMENDED HOTEL INDEX

* New to the Collection

Address inquiries to Andrew Harper Subscription Office, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768.

While Andrew Harper has made every effort to include the most up-to-date and definitive

information in compiling this guide, we cannot assume responsibility for any errors,

inaccuracies or omissions. Prices indicated are based on published rates at time of printing

and are subject to change. Call the Travel Office at (800) 375-4685 for best available rates.

Copyright 2014 Andrew Harper, LLC. All rights reserved.

Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited

without written permission from the publisher.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Andrew Harper ART DIRECTOR Kristina Mitchell

1 ITALY — updated February

2 SPAIN, PORTUGAL & MEDITERRANEAN — updated February

3 GREAT BRITAIN & IRELAND — updated April

4 AFRICA & MIDDLE EAST — updated April

5 MEXICO & CARIBBEAN — updated June

6 CENTRAL & SOUTH AMERICA — updated June

7 UNITED STATES & CANADA — updated August

8 AUSTRALIA, NEW ZEALAND & SOUTH PACIFIC — updated August

9 FRANCE & MONACO — updated October

10 NORTHERN EUROPE & RUSSIA — updated October

11 CENTRAL & EASTERN EUROPE — updated December

12 ASIA — updated December

Address inquiries to Andrew Harper Subscription Office, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768.

While Andrew Harper has made every effort to include the most up-to-date and definitive information

in compiling this guide, we cannot assume responsibility for any errors, inaccuracies or omissions.

Prices indicated are based on published rates at time of printing and are subject to change.

Call the Travel Office at (800) 375-4685 for best available rates.

Copyright 2016 Andrew Harper, LLC. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any

means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher. Photography is copyrighted material

and may not be reproduced without the permission of the photographer/provider.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Andrew Harper ART DIRECTOR Kristina Mitchell

RESEARCH EDITOR Adrienne Jany PHOTO EDITOR Kelly Zhu

1 ITALY — updated February

2 SPAIN, PORTUGAL & MEDITERRANEAN — updated February

3 GREAT BRITAIN & IRELAND — updated April

4 AFRICA & MIDDLE EAST — updated April

5 MEXICO & CARIBBEAN — updated June

6 CENTRAL & SOUTH AMERICA — updated June

7 UNITED STATES & CANADA — updated August

8 AUSTRALIA, NEW ZEALAND & SOUTH PACIFIC — updated August

9 FRANCE & MONACO — updated October

10 NORTHERN EUROPE & RUSSIA — updated October

11 CENTRAL & EASTERN EUROPE — updated December

12 ASIA — updated December

Documents

NORTHERN EUROPE - s3. · PDF fileM A DEIR A a I SL A ND 9 0 9 MIN ( by 90 MI ... HR 90 MI N 2 H RS 75 MI N 3 0 MI N 0 M N Barcelona Sintra Madrid Burgos IBIZA MALL ORCA MENORC A Palma