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2008/5/26
1
Oceanography,Marine Science
Dr. Ryuichiro Nishi
Oceanography also called oceanology or marine science, is the branch of Earth Sciences that studies the Earth's oceans and seas. It covers a wide range of topics, including marine organisms and ecosystem dynamics; ocean currents, waves, and geophysical fluid dynamics; plate tectonics and the geology of the sea floor; and fluxes of various chemical substances and physicalfluxes of various chemical substances and physical properties within the ocean and across its boundaries. These diverse topics reflect multiple disciplines that oceanographers blend to further knowledge of the world ocean and understanding of processes within it: biology, chemistry, geology, meteorology, and physics.
Sub-Categories;
Marine biology or biological oceanography, the study of the plants, animals and microbes (biota) of the oceans and their ecological interaction;
Chemical oceanography or marine chemistry, the t d f th h i t f th d it h i lstudy of the chemistry of the ocean and its chemical
interaction with the atmosphere;
Marine geology or geological oceanography, the study of the geology of the ocean floor including plate tectonics;
Physical oceanography studies the ocean's physical attributes including temperature-salinity structure, mixing, waves, tides and currents;
Marine engineering involves the design and building of oil platforms, ships, harbors, and other structures that allow us to use the ocean wisely [1]allow us to use the ocean wisely. [1]
These branches reflect the fact that many oceanographers are first trained in the exact sciences or mathematics and then focus on applying their interdisciplinary knowledge, skills and abilities to oceanography.[2]
Japan Sea
East China Sea Pacific Ocean Pacific Ocean
East China Sea
2008/5/26
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Trade Wind
Jet Stream
Jet Stream
Clockwise circulation and counter clockwise circulation
Oyashio (Kuril) current
Tsushima current
Cold current
T i
Japan
Kuroshio currentWarm current
Philippines
Taiwan
Plate tectonics
Continental plate
Ocean plate
Earthquake, Tsunami
Blue planet; 70% water surface
Diversity of ocean topography, active plate
S=1600,000,000km2
V=723,700,000km3
have=4280mhmax=11,022m
Pacific Ocean
2008/5/26
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Wind waves; Sea and SwellOcean wave breaking (120°, 1/7)H=f(F,D,V)
F; Fetch, D; Duration, V; Velocity
Tanh(x) = 1; x>>1 (Deep water)=tanh(x) x; transition zone= x; x<<1 (Shallow water)
C=L/T
Coast, nearshore, offshore
Fresh water
Grand banksLabrador and Gulf stream
Kuroshio and Oyashiocurrent
Off of PeruUpwelling
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Q:年平均流(漂)砂量
砂防 Qm
砂防ダム
水利ダム
河川 Qr
↓ Qdis
= Qr - Q
d
⇒ Qc ( Q
dis × α
ef )≈
海岸(沿岸漂砂量), αef:有効漂砂量係数
Qoff
= Qdis - Qc
沖合いへの細砂成分流出
砂採取 Qrd
河口
bbsbsbg xHaaCHQ )2cos2sin()( 21
2
∂∂θθ −=
山地(Qmount)→Qin 砂防ダム Qout→QB,in河 川
(水利ダム)
(=(1-α)Qout)(E) (B)
( =(1-β)QB,out
)
河口部(海岸入口)QB,out→QA,in
(A)
QA,out=Qdis
浚渫;Qrd( =α・Q
B,out)浚渫;Q
sd( =β・Q
out)植生緑化効果; γQ
m
α; 河川浚渫係数
Qoff
Qc
12
Qc
12
β; 砂防浚渫係数γ; 植生緑化係数
⎥⎥⎥
⎦
⎤
⎢⎢⎢
⎣
⎡
⎟⎟⎟
⎠
⎞
⎜⎜⎜
⎝
⎛−++
⎟⎟
⎠
⎞
⎜⎜
⎝
⎛+
=Δ
ΔΔ +
+
+
VQVt
QQQV
ttV Aininin
in
At
t
eA
tt
t
eA
t ˆ̂21ˆ̂ˆ̂
ˆ̂12 ,
1
1
,
1
⎥⎥⎦
⎤
⎢⎢⎣
⎡
⎭⎬⎫
⎩⎨⎧ +−+
⎭⎬⎫
⎩⎨⎧ −−
×⎪⎭
⎪⎬⎫
⎪⎩
⎪⎨⎧−=
2
2
2
2
2
2
2)(exp
2)(exp
2exp
)(2),,(
zz
yzy
zHzH
yU
QzyxC
σσ
σσσπ
A-P関係式の模式図
A; インレット(感潮狭口)の断面積
P; タイダルプリズム
2008/5/26
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10000
100000
onal
are
a (m
2 )
Japan China U.S.A. New Zealand Vietnam India
106 107 108 109
100
1000
Cro
ss s
ectio
Tidal prism (m3)
図-7 各国のインレットデ-タの関係
1000
10000
100000
ctional
are
a (m
2 )
A = 1.75×10-4P0.952
P = 9116A1.054
106 107 108 109
100
1000
Cro
ss s
ec
Tidal prism (m3)
Inlet data for this project A =
R = 0.94
図-8 本研究における汎用インレットA-P関係
Please carefully observe a photograph below and find a marine animal ?
Question 1
Dr. R. NishiEngineers and scientists need capability to find something different and new in nature !
A baby sea turtle is coming out from sandy beach and will across the Pacific Ocean!
Ans. 1
Dr. R. Nishi
What kind of marine animal is in this photograph?
Question 2
Dr. R. Nishi
2008/5/26
6
Ans.2; Marine turtle after a nesting (loggerhead)
Dr. R. Nishi
What kind of marine creature is in this photograph?
Question 3
Dr. R. Nishi
Ans. 3; Hermit crab
Dr. R. Nishi
What kind of marine species caused this damage ?
Question 4
Dr. R. Nishi
Ans.4 ; ‘Habu’ Jellyfish(Chiropsalmus quadrigatus)
Dr. R. Nishi