Octavia 1 - Replacing Door Latch Microswitch - Skoda Octavia I - BRISKODA

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Octavia 1 - Replacing Door Latch MicroswitchStarted by Ali C, 23 Mar 2009 20:29

Ali C

Just had to get me door latch changed as the interior light and all that is connected to it failed so got

it all done for Â£158 is this a good deal

Posted 2 3 Ma r ch 2 009 - 2 0:2 9

Bowders1

No, not considering I just changed mine for Â£3.

Although I had to take the door apart to get to the latch mechanism to change the micro switch that

operates the interior light. I can post instructions and some pic if anyone interested. The VW forums

do not go into detail that well, as stripping down the Octavia door is not the same as a Passat and

Golf. It is not a job for the faint hearted. Took me 2 hours. VW,AUDI must of been paid a large sum

to make those locking mechanisms that complicated.

Posted 2 3 Ma r ch 2 009 - 2 3 :3 6

AndrewTait

If you could put up pics/instructions I for one would appreciate it - This is something which I need to

do at some point.

Cheers,

Posted 2 4 Ma r ch 2 009 - 2 0:5 6

westallc

this has just happend to mine can you post a how to please:thumbup:

Posted 2 8 Ma r ch 2 009 - 1 2 :01

Bowders1

OK will post up something later on today

Posted 2 8 Ma r ch 2 009 - 1 4 :3 3

Bowders1

Ok, so here goes.

I guess this can be moved to the techi section at some point

Part 1.

I must add that these instructions are to fix the none functioning of the interior light from when the

Posted 01 A pr il 2 009 - 2 1 :3 9

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/169-skoda-octavia-owners/

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/27-skoda-octavia-i/

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/user/8182-ali-c/



http://www.briskoda.net/forums/user/18692-bowders1/

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/user/28752-andrewtait/





driver's door is open and when the light on the driverâ€™s door is not working for the same reason.

This involves replacing the door latch micro switch. I also can't be held responsible should folks not be

successful in fixing there door mechanism.

If you do not feel confident, then the options are to either purchase a complete lock mechanism for

dealers at around Â£100 or a scrap yard one at around Â£25- Â£30( can never be sure these will

work). Or get someone else to do itïŠ

Various threads I found for info that may help.

http://www.taligentx...rlockmechanism/ (http://www.taligentx.com/passat/maintenance/doorlockmechanism/)

http://forums.vwvort...=1542461&page=8 (http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1542461&page=8)

http://forums.tdiclu...?t=77648&page=4 (http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=77648&page=4)

http://gruvenparts.c...ined - MKIV.htm

(http://gruvenparts.com/website/diys/Door%20Locks%20Explained%20-%20MKIV.htm)

http://forums.tdiclu...?t=77648&page=8 (http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=77648&page=8)

Tools needed:

- Long nose pliers

- Small flat screwdriver

- TX10 torx bit (for removing door panel screws)

- TX20 torx (long piece or long torx allen key) for removing external door handle

- TX30 torx bit for losing the window regulator

- 12 point star driver/bit (aka triple-square or spline bit): M8(for removing the Lock asm)

- Phillips screw driver

- Duck tap (to hold window up)

- Soldering Iron

- Solder

- Micro switch - Burgess Part #275-016A. This is a Radio Shack item.

I purchased mine on EBay. This is the Radio Shack web site.

http://www.radioshac....tId=2049718 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tId=2049718&cp) ,

Other alternatives

- Burgess V4NS-UL

DK series

http://www.taligentx.com/passat/maintenance/doorlockmechanism/

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1542461&page=8

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=77648&page=4

http://gruvenparts.com/website/diys/Door%20Locks%20Explained%20-%20MKIV.htm

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=77648&page=8

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tId=2049718&cp



So if you still feel up to it .

- Start by putting a cloth over the window frame and then using duck tape support the window (this

is safety precaution only and not because we need to take the window out, but we will be loosening

the screws that hold the regular in place. (later in the instructions).

Example to another car

Then start removing the Interior door panel by removing.

- The grip handle that is at the back of the interior door handle.(on the electric window switch panel)

with a small flat screw driver to gently ease it out.



- Remove the Electric window switch panel. This is push fit and needs some gentle persuasion with the

flat blade screw driver at each end. Should then pop up. Then unplug the connector.



- unscrew the 3 screws (Phillips that are uncovered from the removal of the electric window multi

switch panel.

- The Triangular Tweeter surround bracket (use a small flat screw driver to gently lever the side to

allow it to pop out of the 2 lugs.

Note mine is a custom speaker, I left it hanging, you should be able to unplug the standard connector

if you have standard speakers.

- unclip the Electric mirror switch panel using small flat screw driver again and unplug the connector

and remove the switch panel. This will expose a screw holding the trim in place, remove this.

- Unclip the Drivers door light using the small flat screw driver. Unplug the connector from the back of

the light.

- Finally undo the retaining screws from the sides and bottom of the trim panel (7 screws with TX10

torx)

The panel will now come away by applying some pressure upwards and outwards. Be careful as the

panel will still be connected by

The door handle cable



The door pin (silver plastic rod)

The door â€œlockedâ€ LED

You should be able to separate the panel enough to the get to these items.

Then whilst either getting someone to help you, or support the panel on something unclip the door

lock LED and remove the door pin.

Then slowly pull away the panel and unclip the door handle cable.

Job done on removing the panel.

Now we need to remove the exterior door handle.

You can follow these instructions on the link from a Briskodian member

http://briskoda.net/...octavia/126938/ (http://briskoda.net/technical-guides/removing-door-handle-fabia-

octavia/126938/)

Or use this good example too (was for a Passat).. (This is where you will need a long reach TX20 torx

bit, or a TX20 torx allen key.

Remove the small plastic tab on the rear edge of the door with a screwdriver.(2 for the Skoda Octavia)

The tab is indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below.

18. Behind the plastic tab is a retaining screw which is used to secure the blank in the door handle,

indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below. On the driver's side door, the screw secures the

piece which surrounds the door lock key slot.

http://briskoda.net/technical-guides/removing-door-handle-fabia-octavia/126938/



19. Loosen (but do not completely remove) the retaining screw with a T20 Torx driver. The screw

actually has a very small triple square head, but a T20 driver works perfectly. The retaining screw can

be seen in the picture below.

20. Loosen the retaining screw enough so that the handle blank slides out of the door. (2 for the

Skoda Octavia) The passenger's and driver's side pieces can be seen in the pictures below. On my car,

the screws needed to be turned approximately 13-15 turns for the pieces to slide out. Also, you may

need to pull out on the door handle slightly to allow each piece to slide completely out.



21. The outer handle is connected to the door lock module by a small cable (red arrow in picture

below). The end of the cable is secured to the handle by a small plastic tab (yellow arrow in picture

below) which fits into a threaded groove.

22. Pop the tab on the end of the cable out of its retaining groove using a small screwdriver, as

shown below. Before doing this, note the position of the tab in the groove so that it can be reinstalled

in approximately the same position later.

23. The picture below shows the tab detached from the retaining groove.



This is as far as you need to go on the outside, to then take out the Door lock Mechanism.

Now you are ready to remove the door lock mechanism.

This is where the taped up window comes into play.

- First you will need to either carefully pull off the door membrane on the right hand side or cut it

down the side so to expose the window regulator bracket bolts and allow access to get at the door

lock mechanism. You will need to tape this back up later.

- Then unscrew the TX30 torx screws on the right hand side that support the window regulator. This

is to allow enough room for the door lock mechanism to come out.

- Then remove the two door lock module bolts on the rear edge of the door using the 8mm triple

square tool. The bolts are indicated by the yellow arrows in the picture below.

The 8mm triple square tool is also shown below.



- You will then be left with the door lock lose and the door handle cable still attached to it. Un pop the

door handle cable from its clip.

- You will now be able to manipulate the door lock by carefully twisting it around the lose window

regular bracket to remove it out of the car. See picture below

- Before taking it completely out release the wiring plug. Underneath the mechanism.

Now the Door lock mechanism is free. Well done.

Edited by Bowders1, 18 December 2011 - 12:11.

Bowders1

Part 2

Stripping down the Door lock asm to replace the Micro switch

Pic of mechanism with the micro switch wires (blue and red). This is what we need to get at.

You need to remove this micro switch and replace it with the one you have purchased.

- Observe the position and how the old switch works. Then remove the old switch. It is held in place

by two plastic plugs that are melted to hold the switch. Pry it out with a small flat bladed screwdriver

and clip the wires at the switch.

Posted 02 A pr il 2 009 - 00:1 7




Seen in the pic below on the reverse side of the mechanism, take note of the correct way round the

top part of the switch mechanism contact point.

The result will then look like this.

Examination of the switch shows why it was not working

The switch was completely missing the little plastic rod that triggers the internal part of the switch to



operate.

As the replacement switch is not like this and will need to be either screwed down or glued with strong

cement. I opted for screws.

In this pic you will see the difference between the old and new switch, mainly the holes in the new

switch that screws will be used to hold it in place. You will also have to remove the metal lever that

comes with the new switch by slowly twisting it out with pliers. You don't need it, just the main body

of the switch.

- cut the red and blue wires off of the old switch near to the switch end

- You will need a dremel tool or small drill to slot out the holes in the new switch inwards and upwards

to the top of the switch to allow the screws to fit through the mechanism holes and through the

switch and to give adequate clearance for the cam in the mechanism to clear the switch.

Some folks have actually dremelled the lock asm rather than the switch, this is up to you, but I felt

more comfortable doing this to the new switch (rather bugger that up than the asm).

Here is a pic of someone elseâ€™s attempt to drill the lock.

- When you have drilled out the holes enough to get screws through it and the lock it should look

something like this. Note the below pic has the switch around the wrong way as it is a VW Passat and

slightly different



Note I added a couple more nuts to hold in place better and also used screw thread lock.

- Solder the previously cut wires to the new switch on the terminals.

Attach the wires to the Common and one to the NO (normally open). This is the middle terminal

(ignore the pic above as first soldered it wrong. Does not matter which way round the colors go by

the way.

- You are now ready to test the results

- Take the door lock mechanism out to the car and replug the door lock connector whilst holding the

mechanism.

- Try to manipulate the door open and closed by sliding a screw driver into the latch area to see if the

interior light will come on.

- You can do this by pulling up the lever on the mechanism and at the same time push the latch down

or up.



- If all is well you have just repaired you door latch mechanism

It is now a case of putting it all back together.

Edited by Bowders1, 18 December 2011 - 12:23.

RobClubley

That's excellent. Thanks for taking the time to do this guide.

Posted 02 A pr il 2 009 - 02 :08

Bowders1

RobClubley said

That's excellent. Thanks for taking the time to do this guide.

No worries thought it may be useful, something I had been meaning to do for a while. just getting it

all together takes time.

Next time I go to a scrapyard I think I will be stripping out a few of these for spares, as to get hold of

original micro switch's from dealers is impossible, and the copy one (burgess) is not quite as good,

although it does the trick. It means messing about drilling the switch holes out , that's all.

Posted 02 A pr il 2 009 - 1 7 :2 0

Funkoid

Would this be a potential fix for 00928 - Locking Module for Central Locking: Front Driver Side (F220)

27-00 - Implausible Signal?

Posted 04 A pr il 2 009 - 1 6 :03

Bowders1

Well that was the exact code it had on mine. So I would say yes.

Hopefully with that error your door panel light is not working when door open and your interior light

does not come on also.

Rgds

Mark.

Posted 05 A pr il 2 009 - 1 1 :2 6

FunkoidPosted 06 A pr il 2 009 - 08 :4 7

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/user/2744-robclubley/


http://www.briskoda.net/forums/user/33165-funkoid/





Hmmm that's what is weird the door panel light is working fine when i open the door.

Bowders1

Hmmm, maybe that code is a generic code for the drivers door module and mechanism?

What symptoms are you getting or is it an old code that needs clearing. I just cleared a number of

codes that don't appear to be causing issues and have not come back since.

Posted 1 0 A pr il 2 009 - 01 :3 9

Funkoid

Bowders1 said

Hmmm, may be that code is a generic code for the driv ers door module and mechanism?

What sy mptoms are y ou getting or is it an old code that needs clearing. I just cleared a number of codes that don't appear

to be causing issues and hav e not come back since.

Nope definetly a fault i've cleared it then re-created the issue a few times right away. Basically the

drivers door doesn't open off the central locking remote all other doors do without issue, the same

goes for when you're actually sat in the car pressing the lock unlock button, the drivers door lock just

doesn't move which is of course the most annoying from my point of view!!!

The dash light to say the door is open comes on as does the interior light, not 100% sure about the

"lights are on" buzz but will have to check this again - i recalled it working the last time i tried though.

Bit stumped because my issue seems different to all of the others i've looked at so far. The only thing

that i do remember happening is when we had that really really bad bout of ice a few months back.

There was a very loud twang/ping after i'd been driving for about 2 mins that came from the drivers

side door, thats when the problem started and its just got gradually worse from there on in.

Posted 1 1 A pr il 2 009 - 1 2 :5 7

Bowders1

'Funkoid' said

There was a v ery loud twang/ping after i'd been driv ing for about 2 mins that came from the driv ers side door, thats

when the problem started and its just got gradually worse from there on in.

This sounds like the cable to the Door latch. When you press the remote can you here the door latch

on the drivers side trying to work?

I would definately follow the guide to getting the door panel off. Then you will see if either the exterior

cable to door handle has snapped (common)

Posted 1 1 A pr il 2 009 - 2 2 :3 2






or the cable that is inside the door panel that runs from the mechanism to the chrome door latch.

Funkoid

Bowders1 said

This sounds like the cable to the Door latch. When y ou press the remote can y ou here the door latch on the driv ers side

try ing to work?

I would definately follow the guide to getting the door panel off. Then y ou will see if either the exterior cable to door

handle has snapped (common)

snip

or the cable that is inside the door panel that runs from the mechanism to the chrome door latch.

snip

Thanks for that bowders, based on what you've said it'd make more sense to be for it to be the

exterior cable as i forgot to mention the handle sometimes gets stuck up an upward out position.....

lets hope for good whether tomorrow! edit - is it easy enough to lay a new cable then or is it worth

just taking it the garage?

Posted 1 2 A pr il 2 009 - 09 :5 7

pdhealy

Okay, for anyone who has tried the 4th microswitch fix, can anyone post up a diagram/ pic of where

the U-shaped clip fits in to the mechanism. It fell into my door when I over-loosened one of the

retaining screws (See fig 19 in original post #6 above)

Posted 05 A pr il 2 01 0 - 2 2 :00


http://www.briskoda.net/forums/user/1465-pdhealy/



tonedcos

Thanks for the info guys. Most enlightening. Just aquired the no interior light story with mine. Baffled

me when i couldn't find any switches on the car before i realised they must be in the door. On that

note. Do you know if all doors have a switch, and are they independant, ie all work or none? I have an

Octavia glxi 00 reg. Thanks again.

Posted 03 Ju n e 2 01 0 - 1 8 :2 3

SP-1

Hi Boys and girls.

Since I've gained so much information from this site I feel I owe it to you all to give you a bit back.

I have today (27th July 2010) replaced my drivers door lock assembly.

The symptoms I had were:

No interior light when drivers door opened.

No door safety light (the red and white one on the bottom right had side of the door as you look at it

opened)

No "lights on alarm" when drivers door opened, with ignition off, lights on and door open.

It seems a common fault on all in the VAG range. Indeed when I went into a local Skoda dealership to

see how much a new mechanism was the bloke new without even looking at the screen, as they sell a

lot of them!! Â£110 plus VAT!

I bought a second hand lock mechanism from ebay, for Â£25. I then went to Maplin electronics shop

and bought a microswitch. This one:

http://www.maplin.co...OrderCode=N95AQ (http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?

ModuleNo=34835&OrderCode=N95AQ)

I tried the one with the metal hinge as I figured it might be more robust, however I couldn't make it

fit, so used the one without. It looks similar to the original!

The holes don't quite line up, but instead of drilling it, I used a really strong glue to hold it in place.

You need to look at the "cam" of the door lock to see where best to place it. Too far away and it won't

make contact, too close and it'll smash the switch.

I followed the instructions from a Haynes manual, and looked on here. The only thing I would say is I

didn't need to remove any of the electric window mechanism. Once released there was enough room

(just) to get the lock mechanism out.

The whole job start to finish took me 3 hours.

I already had most of the tools, except the "splined socket" drives, needed to remove the mechanism

from the door. I bought a set for Â£15 from Halfords, that fitted onto my existing half inch socket

driver.

All in all I'd say it's not difficult if you're half mechanically minded, it's just a bit time consuming. Time

will tell if glue was the right idea though!!!!!!

Posted 2 7 Ju ly 2 01 0 - 1 6 :2 5

VRS Mike

Cheers for the write up Bowders, just swapped the knackered one for one from another car. Took me

2 hours because a few problems, could probably do it in 30 mins now

Now my puddle light works but the new one is a little bit more noisy than my old one.

Posted 3 1 Ju ly 2 01 0 - 1 9 :5 8

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/user/58406-tonedcos/

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/user/57906-sp-1/

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=34835&OrderCode=N95AQ

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/user/51200-vrs-mike/



stewmitch

exellent guide to this problem which just started on my ocy

10/10 cheers

Posted 1 6 Ma r ch 2 01 1 - 1 2 :09

CSJimbo

The switch doesn't always fail with its contacts open. On mine it's failed closed so the car always

thinks the driver's door is not fully shut. First I noticed was the interior light didn't turn off when I

started the car. Additionally the remote locking would only unlock, not lock the car.

Different symptoms but the same cause.

Posted 1 6 Ma y 2 01 1 - 2 2 :04

havoc924

'CSJimbo', on 16 May 2011 - 22:04, said:

The switch doesn't alway s fail with its contacts open. On mine it's failed closed so the car alway s thinks the driv er's door is

not fully shut. First I noticed was the interior light didn't turn off when I started the car. Additionally the remote locking

would only unlock, not lock the car.

Different sy mptoms but the same cause.

Does anyone still have the pictures for this guide..... i need to replace mine now ?

Thanks

Posted 2 2 Nov em ber 2 01 1 - 1 0:1 8

darrylg

'Funkoid', on 11 Apr 2009 - 12:57, said:

Nope definetly a fault i'v e cleared it then re-created the issue a few times right away . Basically the driv ers door doesn't

open off the central locking remote all other doors do without issue, the same goes for when y ou're actually sat in the car

pressing the lock unlock button, the driv ers door lock just doesn't mov e which is of course the most annoy ing from my

point of v iew!!!

The dash light to say the door is open comes on as does the interior light, not 1 00% sure about the "lights are on" buzz but

will hav e to check this again - i recalled it working the last time i tried though.

Bit stumped because my issue seems different to all of the others i'v e looked at so far. The only thing that i do remember

happening is when we had that really really bad bout of ice a few months back. There was a v ery loud twang/ping after

i'd been driv ing for about 2 mins that came from the driv ers side door, thats when the problem started and its just got

gradually worse from there on in.

It's a while ago since you posted, but mine has just got this exact fault and the same symptoms.

Only difference is mine seems temperamental. It works in the evenings, but not in the mornings (like

me!).

I think it could be on it's way out.

Also, my "lights on" buzzer doesn't work, and I swear the puddle light doesn't work sometimes.

Does this sound like the micro-switch?

Did replacing the micro-switch fix your issue?

Many thanks.

Posted 2 1 Decem ber 2 01 1 - 2 0:3 4

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/user/13258-stewmitch/

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/user/73349-csjimbo/

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/user/64969-havoc924/

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/user/6001-darrylg/



darrylg

'darrylg', on 21 Dec 2011 - 20:34, said:

It's a while ago since y ou posted, but mine has just got this exact fault and the same sy mptoms. Only difference is mine

seems temperamental. It works in the ev enings, but not in the mornings (like me!). I think it could be on it's way out.

Also, my "lights on" buzzer doesn't work, and I swear the puddle light doesn't work sometimes. Does this sound like the

micro-switch? Did replacing the micro-switch fix y our issue? Many thanks.

OK, for anyone reading, today was lovely and sunny. I'd already prepped the car by removing the

door innards a while back, so I just needed to get the lock assembly out.

After about an hour I had it out and was checking it over. The microswitch was working!

When inserting a tiny screwdriver to depress the microswitch, I could see that the switch is purely

there to indicate to the car, when the door is open or not. The door open light was working, the fuel

pump engaged, the interior light works.

Whats more, when the car is locked with the remote, the red door LED flashes when I've disconnected

the lock assembly from the door wiring. It doesn't flash when the assembly is connected and the car

is locked with the remote.

So now I have another problem. If the microswitch is not preventing the central locking from working

on the drivers door, then could it be the door locking unit itself? There must be a PCB inside plus a

motor.

I'm due to take a further look tomorrow to check the control unit on the window regulator for

corrosion as posted by another member.

If there's nothing wrong there, then I guess I'll disassemble the lock unit and mess with it.

Posted 2 5 Febr u a r y 2 01 2 - 1 9 :4 1

darrylg

FYI, I managed to sort this in the end.

I've posted what I found and some pics here: http://www.briskoda....ost__p__2708544

(http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/222541-central-locking-problem-help-

needed/page__view__findpost__p__2708544)

Posted 03 Ma r ch 2 01 2 - 1 9 :1 4

IulianE

I don't understand any of these.

Tomorow I'll change mine...

Posted 06 Septem ber 2 01 2 - 2 1 :3 8

vworks41

I know this is an older thread, but could somone kindly tell me what the red and blue wires

coresponed to when going to the microswitch?

The guy who done this how to thread said it doesnt matter which way they go round...is this correct?

Cheers.

Posted 1 7 Septem ber 2 01 2 - 1 6 :5 3

Bowders1

'vworks41', on 17 Sept 2012 - 16:53, said:

I know this is an older thread, but could somone kindly tell me what the red and blue wires coresponed to when going to

the microswitch?

The guy who done this how to thread said it doesnt matter which way they go round...is this correct?

Cheers.




http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/222541-central-locking-problem-help-needed/page__view__findpost__p__2708544

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/user/56156-iuliane/

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/user/79743-vworks41/




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That guy is me and yes does not matter, which is why i stated that, and my door lock/switch still

works after 3 years.

cheers

ash983

Hi. I found this really hopeful and I am currently working on the micro-switch. When I tried to secure

the new switch by two small holes in it, I was too close to the interior parts of the switch and it

caused some damage. The switch doesn't work well anymore. Does anyone know the size of the two

screws you need for this job? Can I use glue instead?

Thanks



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Octavia 1 - Replacing Door Latch Microswitch - Skoda Octavia I - BRISKODA