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Art | Architecture | Gardens | Interiors | Food | Style | Health | Fitness | Books | Inspiration OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2013 DALLAS peachy nurturing an abundant life the magazine

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Page 1: OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2013 DALLAS peachyd284f45nftegze.cloudfront.net/bpollett/Peachy... · sions aims at pulling back the curtain and teaching people about the facts of their food. “Not

Art | Architecture | Gardens | Interiors | Food | Style | Health | Fitness | Books | Inspiration

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2013DALLAS

peachy nurturing an abundant life

the magazine™

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The Fall

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OCTOBER / NOVEMBER 2013 43

H

FARM-TO-FORK

It’s that time of year again. The days are getting cooler, the nights are getting longer, and here at Peachy, we like to celebrate the season appropriately: with a feast. Luckily, the Autumn harvest is a bountiful one. Local farms everywhere are full of wonderful ingredients, just begging to be stewed, roasted, and simmered into delicious, warming meals. Think squash gratins, beet salads, and baked apples a la mode…the stuff Fall is made of.

This year, we wanted our harvest feast to truly be one for the books. So we called on our friends over at FM Provisions in Dallas, TX, for a little inspiration, and boy did they deliver. First, a little bit about them.

WRITTEN BY Jane Mekik PHOTOGRAPHY BY Keith Carter

Harvest Feast

How many times have you gotten home after work/kids/etc. and realized you had absolutely NOTHING in your kitchen for dinner? We know. All too often. From there it’s a slippery slope to mediocre take-out at best, and fast food at worst. Ideally the fridge would be forever stocked with local this and farmer’s that. But then who really has

time to cook? Every night? Enter FM (farm-to-market) Provisions. This is one of those gems that every city wishes it had. Dallas, well done.

The seed was planted for Chef Bruce Pollett when he was a child. His Grand-mother Era was a phenomenal southern cook, and she heavily influenced and

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44 PEACHY

The Fall Harvest Feast

inspired his love of food. She also rooted him in the honest preparation of it. Once in college and having to fend for him-self, he began experimenting with his own style of cooking. While at school, he met his wife Pam, and together they became quite renowned for their little dinner gatherings, long before the Food Network came along and made cooking cool. Bruce simply enjoyed his time in the kitchen. It was a release, a way to decompress, and to connect creatively with something he loved.

However, food was put on the back burner for a time as he finished school and spent the next 14 years in the world of finance. Despite success, he was deeply unfulfilled. In 2001, he was done. He had to make a life change.

Living in Florida at this point, he opened Chives, his first restaurant. It didn’t start out farm to table, but Bruce had a natural curiosity about where his food was coming from and who was growing it. In 2007, he began visiting local farms and buying from them directly. “It just made sense,” he says. “Why would I buy something shipped in from 1,000 miles away?”

He opened several more restaurants in Florida, before ultimately deciding to move back to his roots. It was in Texas

that Bruce became doubly committed to his local food mission. He notice that while there were several high-end restaurants serving regionally sourced food, there was nothing casual. He didn’t like that people had to dress up and go out to eat a good meal. This dissatisfaction is what inspired FM Provisions.

Bruce set out to connect to the farmers around Dallas, looking for the farms that would give him “full disclosure.” He was surprised by how eager and willing they were to invite him out to see the dirt, the seeds, the crops, and how they were being cared for. Bruce also connected with a local rancher who was committed to taking the time to do things the healthy and ethical way. Everything free range and grass fed. He was finally set to launch his vision.

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OCTOBER / NOVEMBER 2013 45

FARM-TO-FORK

The concept is a simple one: deliver dinner. FM Provisions has literally made it that easy. From a mouth watering online menu, one can order anywhere from a single meal to five weeknight dinners, Monday through Friday. This includes a salad, a main, sides, and a dessert, all at a very reason-able price, if you ask us, considering the extremely high quality of all ingredi-ents. Beyond the freshness of the food, is Bruce’s command of flavor. His apple cider brined chicken is heavenly, and is served with roasted butternut squash and an okra bacon gratin. We happily taste Grandma Era’s influence here! And don’t forget the caramelized apple pound cake for dessert.

In the end, one of the things we love most about FM Provisions, is their

passion for bringing vibrantly nutritious food to dinner tables across Dallas. Bruce says it best: “When you do something you love, phenomenal things happen…It’s soul-driven.” And that’s what FM Provisions is: soul-driven soul-food, prepared with respect not just for the ingredients, but for the people who will be eating it. Several of Bruce’s clients are patients recovering from serious illness, and are using his food as part of their healing process. He sees that education, too is part of their mission. “Too often,” he says, “we wait until something goes wrong to make the change to a healthier diet.” FM Provi-sions aims at pulling back the curtain and teaching people about the facts of their food. “Not all carrots are created equal,” Bruce tells us, and after tasting his, we’re sure that you’ll agree.

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The Fall Harvest Feast

46 PEACHY

TENDER BEET GREENS SALAD WITH CRISPY BACON TIPS, GOAT CHEESE,

CORN BREAD CROSTINI & BALSAMIC POACHED PEAR VINAIGRETTEserves 4

1 pound of tender beet greens, tough stems removed, washed and dried

4 slices of thick smoked bacon (we use applewood)

fresh goat cheese, crumbled

4 slices Cornbread (see recipe on next page) cut into 1⁄4" wide by 3" long

3 to 4 tablespoons Balsamic Poached Pear Vinaigrette (see recipe on page 48)

Cut the bacon into 1" pieces and place in a skillet on low heat. Render the fat out completely until bacon is crispy. (Low heat will allow you to slowly melt

the fat without burning the bacon.) Once cooked, place the bacon on paper towels to soak up any leftover fat that is clinging to the bacon.

While bacon is rendering, place your cornbread slices in a sheet pan and bake on 350 for approximately 10 to 12 minutes. You are looking for a golden brown crust on the cornbread.

In a medium bowl, toss the beet greens with the vinaigrette to taste.

Place a mound of salad on each plate. Scatter the bacon and goat cheese on top, then arrange the crostini on each plate.

Wishing that you, too, had a weeknight back up plan that doesn’t involve any-thing frozen or fried? See below for links to similar concepts in cities from Los Angeles to Boston.

And for those weekends where you feel a little bit more ambitious—get out your shopping list and take note: this Fall Harvest Feast courtesy of Chef Bruce is the perfect menu with which to do a little seasonal entertaining. Gather some friends, open a bottle of wine, and enjoy.

Paleta, Los Angeles, CA

Dinner at your Door, Portland, OR

White Sparrow Food Company, Denver, CO

FM Provisions, Dallas, TX

Scratch DC, Washington, DC

Foodery, Boston, MA

Portable Chef, New York, NY

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FARM-TO-FORK

OCTOBER / NOVEMBER 2013 47

heavy pan) in the oven to heat up while you make your batter.

In a large bowl, whisk together the first six ingredients (the dry ones) so they are well incorporated. Then whisk in your remaining ingredients (the wet ones) until they are well incorporated. Do not over mix.

Remove the hot skillet or pan from the oven and pour the batter into the skillet and place it on the middle rack of the oven. (If you are not using a well-seasoned cast iron skillet, you will want to coat the bottom and sides of the skillet with butter before pouring the batter in. This will help prevent it from sticking.)

Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the center is set and golden brown and a toothpick poked into the center comes out clean. Let cool for at least 15 min-utes before cutting.

BUTTERMILK CORNBREADserves 8 to 10

1 1⁄4 cups coarsely ground yellow cornmeal

3⁄4 cup flour (all purpose is fine)

1⁄3 cup sugar

2 teaspoons salt (we use grey sea salt, but kosher salt is fine)

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 1⁄3 cups of buttermilk

2 eggs, slightly beaten

1⁄4 pound unsalted butter, melted (equals 1 stick)

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Place your 9" cast iron skillet (or any other

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The Fall Harvest Feast

48 PEACHY

BALSAMIC POACHED PEAR

VINAIGRETTE

1 bosc pear, peeled, halved, and cored

1⁄3 cup balsamic vinegar

1⁄4 cup brown sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon fresh cracked pepper

1 clove garlic, chopped

2 tablespoons fresh basil (we use Thai basil)

1 cup canola oil

Place a non stick skillet on medium high heat. Pour a teaspoon of oil in the

pan and place pears cut side down and sear for approximately 2 minutes.

Take skillet away from the stove and add the vinegar, brown sugar, salt and pepper. (When the vinegar hits the hot pan it will splatter, so brace yourself and stand back a bit.) Place the skillet back on the stove and let boil for 30 seconds then turn off the heat and let it cool to room temperature.

Once your pear and vinegar mixture is cooled, add the pear and all of the liquid to the blender, along with the garlic and basil. Once completely blended, add the canola oil in a slow steady stream and continue to blend until smooth. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed.

ROASTED AUTUMN SQUASHserves 4 to 6

1 acorn squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1" chunks

1 butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1" chunks

1 yellow onion, julienned

1 tablespoon fresh rosemary1⁄4 cup olive oil

1 tablespoon salt

2 teaspoons fresh cracked pepper

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Place all the ingredients, except the salt and pepper, in a large mixing bowl and toss until all combined.

Place the squash mixture on a sheet pan in a single layer and sprinkle with the salt and pepper.

Roast for 45 minutes or until browned and tender.

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OCTOBER / NOVEMBER 2013 49

PEPPERCORN CRUSTED TEXAS STRIP STEAK WITH

SORGHUM MOLASSES VINAIGRETTE

served with Roasted Autumn Squash, Old Fashioned Spoon Bread, and Braised Greens

4 prime strip steaks, 1" thick (room temperature)

Salt to taste (we use grey sea salt, but kosher salt is fine)

Fresh cracked peppercorn

4 tablespoons Sorghum Molasses Vinaigrette (see recipe on page 50)

Preheat your grill on high heat.

Once steaks are at room temperature and grill is hot, season both sides with salt and a heavy dose of fresh cracked pepper.

To prepare the grill, add some canola oil to a clean dish rag and using tongs run the oily rag over the hot grates of your grill. (This will help prevent the steaks from sticking.)

Place the steaks on the hot grill and cook approximately 3 minutes on each side for medium rare.

Allow steaks to rest for 10 minutes before serving. Serve with Sorghum Molasses Vinaigrette on the side.

A TIP FROM CHEF BRUCE POLLETT:

NEVER cover your grill while cooking steaks…doing so will cause them to bake, become over-done, and prevent a good sear.

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The Fall Harvest Feast

50 PEACHY

SORGHUM MOLASSES VINAIGRETTE

1⁄3 cup apple cider vinegar

2 tablespoons sorghum molasses

1 shallot, minced

1 teaspoon fresh thyme

2 teaspoons country mustard

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoon fresh cracked pepper

1⁄2 cup olive oil

1⁄2 cup canola oil

Place all ingredients, except the oils, in a mixing bowl and whisk until salt is dissolved.

Add the oils in a slow steady stream, whisking vigorously until completely incorporated and the mixture has a smooth consistency.

OLD FASHIONED SPOON BREAD

3 cups whole milk

1 1⁄4 cups yellow cornmeal

3 eggs beaten

1 3⁄4 teaspoons baking powder

2 tablespoons fresh minced chives (optional)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

1 1⁄2 teaspoons salt

Preheat over to 375 degrees.

Grease a 9" cast iron skillet or baking pan with bacon fat or butter.

Place the milk in a saucepan and bring to a simmer, whisking occasionally to prevent it from scorching. Once at a simmer, slowly pour and whisk in the cornmeal until completely absorbed all the milk. Remove from the heat to allow to cool slightly. It will be extremely thick.

Transfer the cornmeal mixture to a mixing bowl and add the remaining ingredients and whisk vigorously until everything is well incorporated. The longer you whisk the more fluffy your spoon bread will be. Using a stand mixer works the best for this.

Pour your batter into the prepared pan and bake for 20 to 25 minutes. It should be golden brown and puffy. You can poke a toothpick into the center to make sure it comes out clean, if your not sure its done. Don’t overcook though or it will be more like cornbread instead of a light soufflé like spoonbread.

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FARM-TO-FORK

OCTOBER / NOVEMBER 2013 51

BRAISED GREENS

1⁄4 pound smoked slab bacon, cut into 1⁄4" dice

1 yellow onion, julienned

2 large bunches fresh collard greens, ribs removed, washed, and cut into 1⁄2" strips1⁄2 cup water

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 teaspoons hot pepper sauce (we use Tabasco)

salt and pepper to taste

Place the bacon in a 8 quart stock pot on low heat and slowly render until bacon is crispy.

Turn the heat up to medium and add the julienned onions and sauté until just starting to wilt and turn a caramel color.

Add the collards, pushing them down into the pot as needed, then the water. Turn the greens over onto themselves occasionally with a pair of tongs until starting to wilt down into the pot. Turn the heat back down to low, cover and simmer for 30 minutes.

Turn the greens over again and add the vinegar, pepper sauce, salt and pepper. Cover and simmer for an additional 30 minutes. Adjust season-ing as needed.

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The Fall Harvest Feast

52 PEACHY

APPLE & CARAMEL CRUMB PIE

2 granny smith apples

3 braeburn apples

1 lemon, freshly squeezed (about 2 tablespoons)

1⁄3 cup brown sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon cinnamon

1 teaspoon allspice

1 cup crisp topping (see recipe)

1⁄2 cup caramel sauce (see recipe)

1 pie dough (see recipe)

Peel and core the apples, then cut them into 1⁄4" thick slices. Put them into a mixing bowl and toss them with the lemon juice, sugar, salt, cinnamon, and allspice. Then set aside and let it macerate for about an hour. (While you are waiting on the apples you can make your pie dough, caramel sauce, and crisp topping.)

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Once your apples and spices have come together, take 1⁄4 cup of your crisp topping and mix in with the apples. Then pour the entire mixture into your prepared pie crust. (It may

seem like too many apples, but they will cook down.) Once apples are in the pan, drizzle your caramel sauce over your apples, then sprinkle the crisp mixture on top.

Bake in the center of the oven for 45 minutes to an hour, until the apple mixture is bubbling on the sides and the topping is crisp and golden brown.

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OCTOBER / NOVEMBER 2013 53

CRISP TOPPING

1 cup granulated sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon cinnamon1⁄4 pound (1 stick) unsalted butter, cold, cut into 1⁄2" dice

Place all the ingredients into a mixing bowl, except the butter and stir with a whisk until well blended. Add the butter and using your fingers work the butter into the mixture until it resembles course cornmeal with pea-sized chunks of butter.

CARAMEL SAUCE

1 cup light brown sugar

1 tablespoons unsalted butter (1⁄2 stick)

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon sorghum molasses1⁄2 cup of heavy cream

Place all the ingredients in a sauce pan and bring to a boil for 3 minutes, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.

PIE DOUGHmakes two 10" crusts

2 1⁄2 cups all-purpose flour1⁄2 teaspoon salt

3 ounces unsalted butter, cold, cut into 1⁄4" dice

5 ounces lard or shortening, cold1⁄2 cup ice water

Mix the flour and salt together in a large mixing bowl.

Add the butter and using your fingers work the butter into the flour until it resembles course cornmeal with pea size butter chunks. Break up the lard or shortening and add it in bits to the bowl. Still working with your fingers cut in the shortening until the mixture has small clumps.

Add the ice water and lightly mix until it is incorporated.

Turn the dough out onto a work surface and fold it over onto itself a few times. Do not overwork though. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for a let an hour before roll-ing out. (This dough freezes great, so wrap tightly and freeze what you don’t use.)