Oded Kishony's Oil Varnish

Oil Varnish 2 parts resin to 1 part oil* (see note below)
(linseed or walnut -cold pressed)

Ingredients (All measurements in the recipe are by volume.)
*To maintain an accurate oil to resin ratio it should be done by weight with
the oil equal to 56% of the resin

250 ml - Larch Resin/Venetian Turpentine. (Kremer # 62010 - Venetian
Turpentine. "Mixture of 6200 and 6030/6031". Or you can use a combination
of
Burgundy Rosin and Strasbourg turp or Burgundy rosin alone or collected
oleoresin/pitch of pine.)
1/2 volume of crushed cold cooked resin (see below) -Linseed oil or Walnut
oil Cold pressed. (Kremer # 73054 - 1 liter $10)
250ml liquid-Wood ash (Equal volume of the filtered solution obtained by
passing distilled water through hardwood ash, which has been placed in a
coffee filter -- [i.e. if 2 tablespoons of resin are used then 2 tablespoons
of ash should be used. Note: Hardwood ashes are stronger but a mix of
hardwood and spruce is fine).
1/4 teaspoon - Slaked Lime (Kremer # )
1/2 teaspoon - Manganese Brown/Umber (Kremer # 4062)
Spirits of Gum Turpentine

Equipment
Hot plate -- with diffuser screen- (metal screen door screen)
Thermometer (Candy maximum of 200 C will be OK
Lab spoon for stirring
Fire extinguisher.

The Process all cooking is done in glass or enameled saucepan on hot plate
with a screen diffuser.
Add: Distilled Water filtered through Wood Ash pass distilled water
through the ash, which is placed in a coffee filter. Use as much volume as
you have resin.
Add: 1/4 teaspoon of Slaked Lime.
Add: 1/2 teaspoon of Manganese Brown (Umber)
Add : 250-ml resin
COOK AT 250-300 CENTIGRADE for 5-15 hours. Allow the cooked resin to cool.
It will harden when cooled. Longer cooking yields darker color. Cooking with
iron present gives a redder color. No iron green/yellow/brown color

Crush, measure and MELT the cooked resin.

Slowly add the Linseed oil. 1/2 the volume of the crushed resin.
Continue to cook Until the varnish "strings" BRING TEMPERATURE TO 300
CENTIGRADE Stop stirring pot when the
varnish starts to string-you want any sediment to settle to the bottom of
the
pot. Test the varnish periodically by conducting the string test. I.E.:
Place
a drop of hot varnish into a glass of water, let cool for 5-10 seconds, pick
up the varnish by touching it with your Index finger, shake off excess water
then pinch the varnish between your Thumb and index fingers. As you pull
your
fingers apart a string of varnish should form between the thumb and index
finger. Continue cooking until you are able to pull the string of varnish,
using the string test (see above), without it separating as the fingers are
spread apart 1.5 cm to 2 cm COOL VARNISH TO 200C

Add: HEAT Spirits of Gum Turpentine in the same quantity as THE RESIN AND
ADD to
the varnish when the cooking process is completed. Observe care in warming
the turps, it is warm enough when a LITTLE vapor is observed forming above
the
turps in the cooking vessel. (Warm it in a stove top rated Pyrex measuring
cup OR ENAMELED PAN over the hot plate.) Have Fire extinguisher available.

Filter: Pour WARM mixture through a cloth (old tee shirt) to filter out any
undissolved particles or dirt. If there is sediment at the bottom of the
cooking pot don't try filtering it just decant the clean varnish.
Add: After varnish has completely cooled you may add a tablespoon of alcohol
or half a T of alcohol and half T of spike lavender oil. This last step will
help the varnish dry it also improves flow out and helps dissolve any
undissolved particles. This varnish does not skim over in the jar and will
improve with age. Do not apply this varnish in a thick film, always spread
it thinly. Working time on the surface is 20-25 min. You should add a few
drops of thickened linseed oil to the last layers of varnish to maintain the
fat over lean rule of oil painting.
Drying: The varnish will dry overnight. You can optionally use UV lighting
in a drying cabinet.
Polishing: When you are ready to rub down and polish the surface this
varnish will soften with alcohol. You can rub down and polish by putting
some xxxx pumice on a cloth with oil and alcohol just as you would when
doing
normal French polish. For a final polish I use the same technique with a bit
of tripoli instead of pumice. I use linseed oil when French polishing-this
facilitates an additional coat of varnish (I don't have to worry about
having
a non drying oil on the surface).