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ISSUE 15 2020-2021
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Online Special Edition PANDEMIC EMERGENCY
Online Special Edition PANDEMIC EMERGENCY
Welcome
STEP ACROSSAND DISCOVERTHE MAGIC
www.visitwaternish.co.uk
to The Skye Magazine for 2020/2021This is the Coronavirus Pandemic special on-line edition of The Skye Magazine 2020…the magazine was first published in 2006 and we have certainly never done anything like this before!For a start, we have brought a new look and a new team to this year’s magazine, following the creation of the Stornoway Media Centre last year. We hope you love it!The edition is made up of advertisements and editorial prepared for the Skye Magazine 2020 – but being published during lockdown. Some of the advertisements are ones prepared for last year’s magazine - and, of course, many of the businesses are not operating at all at the time of publication. However, we are going to be updating the on-line edition as the days and weeks pass…with the aim of producing the print edition as soon as we can all be reasonably certain that there will be some visitors around to pick it up. And we are including an extra bonus section in the on-line edition, too!For the moment, dear readers, you can just luxuriate on-line imagining what the Isle of Skye likes to offer its visitors…and hopes soon to be able to welcome them with.
Fred Silver, Editor
The Skye Magazine is produced and designed by
Intermedia Services (Stornoway) Ltd,Stornoway Media Centre, Church House,
16 James Street, Stornoway HS1 2QN01851 705743
e-mail: [email protected]
ISSN-1750-4430
Cover photo :Old Man of Storr reflected in Loch FadaAlexander Macaskill of Skyelight Photography
This page:A87 heading down into Druim nan CleochdAlexander Macaskill of Skyelight Photography
Issue 15 2020/2021 3
01471 822616
Our locally sourced menu includes delicious freshly
made pizza from our Tuscan wood fired oven.
Enjoy speciality wines and cocktails as well as our
artisan drum fired coffees, roasted in-house.
Relax beneath the Red Cuillin hills in a family friendly atmosphere.
Food served all day.
Can’t stop? Try our new takeaway for a quick grab & go!EAT, DRINK, RELAX
01471 822616
Our locally sourced menu includes delicious freshly
made pizza from our Tuscan wood fired oven.
Enjoy speciality wines and cocktails as well as our
artisan drum fired coffees, roasted in-house.
Relax beneath the Red Cuillin hills in a family friendly atmosphere.
Food served all day.
Can’t stop? Try our new takeaway for a quick grab & go!
Broadford • Isle of Skye • 01471 822616www.cafesia.co.uk
Can’t stop?Try our new takeaway for a quick grab & go!
BROADFORD ISLE OF SKYE
Our locally sourced menu includes
delicious freshly made pizza from our Tuscan
wood fired oven.
Enjoy speciality wines and cocktails as well as local artisan drum fired
coffees, homemade sorbets and ice creams.
Relax beneath the Red Cuillin hills in a family friendly atmosphere.
Food served all day.
Open Daily08:30 - 17:00
t: +44 1471 822 646 deligasta.co.uk
the old mill, broadford,isle of skye, iv49 9aq
fresh local food & artisan coffees
FineJewellery
by
Strathaird Steading, StrathairdIsle of Skye IV49 9AX Tel:01471 866 366www.duncan-house.com [email protected]
– Commissions welcome –
INSIDE OUTVarragill HouseThe Green, PortreeIsle of Skye IV51 9BYTel: 01478 611663Open Mon-Sat 9-6
www.insideoutskye.com “walk this way”www.inside-out-skye.com
Inga’s Sweet Treats2 Wentworth Street, Portree,
Isle of Skye IV51 9EJTel: 01478 612377
[email protected]/ingassweettreats
www.edinbane-pottery.co.ukIsle of Skye Tel: 01470 582 234
Edinbane PotteryWORKSHOP & GALLERY
Open all yearMon-Fri 9am-6pm
7 days Easterto October
SPECIALITY COFFEEat Glenbrittle Campsite
(past the Fairy Pools)
OPEN 1st APR – 30th SEP
8AM TO 6PM (TILL 8PM JUL & AUG)
On site parking available 01478 640404
VISIT THE GAELIC WHISKIES SHOPGAELICWHISKY.COM
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
VISIT THE GIN DISTILLERYGAELICGIN.COM
ART GALLERY
BAR • GOOD FOOD • LIVE MUSIC
Take a little piece of Skye with you, wherever you go…
Broadford, IV49 9AB
I S L E O F S K Y E C A N D L E C O .
All our products are hand poured lovingly on the Isle of Skye.Visit us at our shop and workshop:
skyecandles.co.uk
Dandelion Designs
Edinbane Pottery
Inga’s Sweet Treats
Fine Jewellery by Garth Duncan
Inside Out
Page 20
Page 3
Page 33Page 10
Page 10
Coffee goes mellow at Café Sia Page 31
Cuillin Coffee Page 15
Deli Gasta Page11
Derek Robertson Page 18
Hotel Eilean Iarmain Isle of Skye Candle CoKeeping business simple… and successful
Isle of Skye Crafts / Over the RainbowIsle of Skye Baking Co
Flodigarry HotelUpping the Game with a World Class Restaurant
Page 27
Page 16
Page 2Page: 24Page 9
Armadale Castle
Armadale Castle
Page10
Casual Dining Award Regional Winner ~ Islands
Romantic Hotel of the YearRegional Winner ~ Islands
Flodigarry, Isle of Skye, IV51 9HZ01470 552203
www.hotelintheskye.co.ukwww.restaurant-isleofskye.co.uk
Award winning Flodigarry Hotel, Isle of Skye commands a panoramic position overlooking the sea
towards the Torridons on mainland Scotland.If you like super food, fine wine and malts; breathtaking mountain
and sea views, the great outdoors, wildlife walks, guided mountain and geological rambles, traditional story telling, ceilidhs, boat trips and fishing
or simply to go feet up with a book by a log fire - then Flodigarry is just right for you
ContentsFeaturesIn no time at all, Len and Margaret were proud owners of a remote island Page 12
Book Review Pabay…An Island Odyssey Page 14
Strathaird and Elgol…ancient and varied Page 21
Map of Skye Page 38
Eilean Bàn A Stepping Stone to the Isle of Skye Page 44
Hands-on working bakery serving great coffee, freshly baked breads & cakes, & lunch all day! Something for everyone, from fans of black pudding
to gluten-free vegetarians, fussy kids to true romantics.
We love food as much as you do.
Off Dunvegan Road, Portree IV51 9HF
01478 612 669Open Mon to Sat
10am to 5pm
Earlier editions of The Skye Magazine are available to order on our Etsy shop
www.etsy.com/uk/shop/ stornowayMedia
The Skye Magazine | 1 | Issue 14Issue 12 | 2017
FREEFREE
Skye
Issue 14 | 2019/20
FREE
Magazine
Thean saoghal sgitheanach
Issue 15 2020/20214
STEP ACROSSAND DISCOVERTHE MAGIC
www.visitwaternish.co.uk
100% PURE SCOTTISH SEA SALTPremium quality, multi-award winning sea salt made on the Isle of Skye using only the sun and the wind.
Our eco-friendly, natural, evaporation process produces exceptional, raw unrefined sea salt crystals with a robust flavour and soft finish.
Our beautiful card packaging is re-usable and recyclable.
Find out more about us: www.isleofskyeseasalt.co.uk75g and 150g tubs available at outlets throughout Skye & Lochalsh or on-line.
Carbost IV47 8ST Tel: 01478 640512
As you come down into the village of Carbost follow the signs on the side of the road
Handmade Bespoke Harris Tweed Handbags, cases and brooches
All designed by Lou Lou herself
Each item is a one off
Sealladh na Mara, Elgol, Isle of Skye, IV49 9BL Tel: 01471866288
www.mistyisleboattrips.co.ukEmail: [email protected]
Misty Isle Boat Trips is a family-run business running boat trips from Elgol on the Isle of Skye to the famous Loch Coruisk in the heart of the Cuillin Hills.
We also offer trips out to Rum, Canna or any of the other nearby islands giving you the chance to look for the wildlife which abounds in these waters.
Design virtually in 3D from the comfort of your own home and cut your costs with the new affordable solution — the “live” cloud based project model. Share design information, work together and keep track of changes throughout the life of your proposal. As this personal, professional and innovative service can be delivered to meet your needs a without obligation quotation can be provided by return.
NEIL FERGUSON CHARTERED ARCHITECT Based at: 12 Skinidin, Dunvegan, Isle of Skye. IV55 8ZS. E-mail: [email protected] Mobile: 0774 326 5337
3D Detailing Laser Surveys
Walkthroughs 3D visualization
Energy Schedules Material Schedules
Isle of Skye
Hot-SmokedSalmon
“truly artisan and perfectly balanced”
An Air BnB experience
Isle of Skye
Hot-SmokedSalmon
“truly artisan and perfectly balanced”
An Air BnB experience
Learn about the techniques of smoking and curing. Sample canapes of hot smoked salmon, Cullen Skink, Smoked salmon mousse on beetroot and blini.
+44(0)7703 021321(booking essential)
2 Ard Dorch, Isle of Skye IV49 9AJ
Available from… Isle of Skye Baking Company (Portree), An Crubh (Sleat)The Top Shop (Broadford), Beths Deli (Balmacara), Fishermans Kitchen (Kyle)
SkyeSmokehouse.co.uk
“John is warm, charming and an amazing chef.” Jerda
“What an absolutely fantastic way to experience a little of the unique culture of the Hebrides than to experience the art of smoking fish.” Lavinda
Tour & tasting
The Isle of Skye Estate Agency
www.iosea.co.uk Portree: 01478 612683
[email protected] Kyle: 01599 534 555
Looking to buy or Sell? Contact us.
Looking to buy or sell? Contact us.
Speed of Light Photography
Misty Isle Boat Trips
Neil Ferguson
Isle of Skye Sea SaltFinding a natural way to salty success
Isle of Skye Smoke House How alder aids flavour of salmon
Page 20
Page 20
Page 28
Page 35
Page 32
Isle of Skye Estate Agency Page 15
The Leather Shop Skye Page 18
Lou Lou DesignsLiving the dream in her own Island paradise
Continued on page 6Talisker Bay at sunset
Alexander Macaskill of Skyelight Photography
Issue 15 2020/2021 5
Hotel & RestauRant
Tel: 01470 532 202 to bookwww.skeabosthotel.com [email protected] Hotel | Skeabost BridgeIsle Of Skye | IV51 9NP
Hotel & RestauRant
Tel: 01471 820 200 to [email protected] House Hotel | SleatIsle Of Skye | IV44 8RE
Hotel & RestauRant
Tel: 01471 833202 to [email protected] House Hotel | SleatIsle of Skye | IV43 8QW
tHe sonas ColleCtion
DUNVEGAN
Fruit and vegetable whole foods and vegetarian foods
The Royal Hotel Bank St, Portree IV51 9BU T: 01478 612525
The perfect setting for any visit to the beautiful Island of Skye!
Specialising in mixed media and watercolour, Duncan Currie’s main inspirations are the mountain scenery of Skye and beyond, as well as the fishing boats seen in the harbours of the West Coast.
A range of paintings, reproductions, prints and cards are on show and work by a number of other artists may be seen. Prices vary and should suit all pockets.
Old Pier Road, Broadford, Isle of SkyeTel: 01471 822 064 [email protected]
www.duncancurrie.net
Open 11am – 6pm Monday – Saturday (Winter 12-6pm)(Also open in the evening – if I’m in!)
SCONSER LODGE HOTEL
Sconser Lodge Hotel Sconser, Isle of Skye IV48 8TDTel: +44 (0)1478 650 333
Email: [email protected]: www.sconserlodge.co.uk
Built in 1871 as a hunting box for the MacDonalds, Sconser Lodge is now a delightful hotel, where you are assured a friendly, relaxing stay. Its central location between Portree and Broadford makes it an ideal base for exploring the whole of Skye, or the Isle of Raasay, a short ferry trip away.
We aim to offer a relaxing, comfortable stay with a traditional country house atmosphere, and can promise a warm and friendly welcome to all our guests. We are right on the sea shore with our own jetty and mooring, where you may see a visiting otter. Seals and dolphins have also been known to put in an appearance. The building features original pine panelling and open fires where we burn peat and logs.
Our eight bedrooms, which include a family suite and a triple room, are all well appointed. Many have stunning sea and loch views. All have ensuite shower or bathrooms. A travel cot and high chair are available on request.
A great Local menuEthically & sustainably sourced
•Earlybirdselection •Hot&coldfilledrolls •Freshlygroundcoffee
Stunning views over to Applecross & Lochcarron
Chipshopfryingfrom12pmdaily
Broadford•IsleofSkye•IV499AB•01471822158Located on the A87 next to elgol road
www.cafesia.co.uk
10 stamps = FREE coffee, 12 = FREE 6” pizza, 24 = FREE 12” pizza or fi sh & chips
1 coffee or 6” pizza = 1 stamp; 12” pizza or fi sh &chips = 3 stamps
LOYALTY
CARDSAVAILABLE
WWW.SKYESKYNS.CO.UK01470 592237
IV55 8GD for your Sat Nav
A unique VISITOR ATTRACTION in
stunning WATERNISH
Uig, Isle of Skye, IV51 9YE Tel: 01470 542 205www.uighotel.com www.uiglodge.com
Great food, great local beers and over 100 single malt whiskies to choose from
Three minutes drive from the ferry port for services with the Outer Hebrides, with fantastic
views out across Uig Bay Dogs welcome. Open to non-residents
STEP ACROSS AND DISCOVER THE MAGIC - ALL YEAR ROUND!
w w w. v i s i t - w a t e r n i s h . c o . u k
w e s t c o a s t
W E A V E R SI S L E O F S K Y E
Come and see our traditional looms, watch us at work,chat about the weaving process and discover a unique
collection of blankets, scarves, throws, bags, wall-hangings and more in our small shop.
We look forward to welcoming you soon!
Westcoast Weavers, Ellishadder, Nr Staffin, Isle of Skye IV51 9JE01470 562 734 www.westcoastweavers.co.uk
Pam Carter
t: 01471 833 439/332 m: 07715015752 w: www.pamcarter.co.uk e: [email protected]
Showing my island paintings at this remote gallery at Isle Ornsay in this most beautiful location on Skye has been quite an institution. This would have been my 29th year manning the show, but due to the coronavirus restrictions my exhibition will sadly not be going ahead at the gallery. However, it is online! From 23 July - 5 September.It includes large dramatic landscape paintings, Skye and island locations, and charming small paintings. You can also buy prints online in my shop, which includes some new prints produced for this year.The exhibition can be viewed on my website, and paintings can be purchased in my online shop. If you wish to discuss or reserve a painting, please contact me by email, or phone: 01360 620 830 or 07715 015 752
A SKYE CONNECTION
The Fruit & Nut Place
The Old Byre Skye
Sandbank Studio
The Royal Hotel
Uig Hotel
The Hand spinner
Page 33
Page 10
Page 29
Page 33
Page 33
Page 10
Siaway Fish & ChipsAiming to cater for all tastes and diets… Page 31
Sonas Hotels Back Page
Sligachan HotelSeafood bonanza keeps menus fresh Page 36
Skye Skyns Page 20Visit Waternish Page 29
Pam CarterArtist Pam… sunny, light and very strong Page 26
Ragamuffin Page 19
Uig Pottery Page 29
Scottish Islands Explorer Page 29
Westcoast WeaversNew start as Maggie sticks to weaving! Page 30
Sconser Lodge Hotel Page 37
Sligachan Hotel is situated in the heart of the spectacular Cuillin Hills. The hotel offers something for everyone from
relaxing accomodation, an impressive collection of over 400 whiskies should you wish to sample some of Scotland’s finest malts, Seumas’ Bar serving the best of local produce food all day, famous for the best Ceilidh Nights every Saturday on the Island, a large playpark for children to enjoy and is also home
to the Cuillin Brewery, our own micro brewery which has 4 main ales - Pinnacle, Old Bridge, Eagle and Black Face.
Sligachan is rich in history with this family-run hotel now in its fourth generation, which you can learn about in their museum inside the main hotel. The views from this hotel are nothing short of stunning with plenty routes beginning here for many
walks for all capabilities.
Head to their website www.sligachan.co.uk for rates and a full event listing of what’s coming up.
SLIGACHAN, ISLE OF SKYE, IV47 8SW
T: 01478 650 204E: [email protected]
Nigel Grounds Gallery
Page 37
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101 YEARS AFTER IOLAIRE DISASTER
Marsco from SligachanRoz Macaskill
Issue 15 2020/20216
By Taylor Edgar
A major reboot is underway at the Flodigarry Hotel to make their SKYE restaurant a destination in
its own right.
The strategic overhaul pivots on the new head chef, Ryan Glen, who has been given a free hand to up the hotel’s game with an all-new menu. Having come on board at Flodigarry late last year, Ryan has completely refreshed the hotel’s fare for the 2020 season and now offers the choice of a three-course set menu or a seven-course tasting menu.
Explaining the rationale behind the menu makeover, hotel general manager, Hector Macleod, says that it is now time for the SKYE restaurant to put itself on the map, rather than simply being the hotel’s restaurant.
“In the past, we have viewed the restaurant as part of the hotel and based a lot of our custom on our residents eating with us,” states Hector. “This year we would like to accomplish more of a separation between the hotel and the restaurant, and hope that once we get the word out on our food, people will travel to Skye to visit the restaurant, instead of travelling to the restaurant because they’re on Skye.”
Key to their ambitions is the food. But their renewal efforts in the kitchen are matched by an equally impressive investment elsewhere in the hotel’s operation.
Notes Hector: “We have spent a small fortune on new crockery to complement the style of food Chef Ryan will be sending out, and this year we are focussing more on marketing and awards. We have also invested a bit more in staff this winter to ensure the service matches the food quality.”
Also included in the new look are the staff uniforms which now feature kilts, a finishing touch of tartan it is hoped will make the hotel stand out that little bit more.
The new Front of House team comprises:
Hector Macleod - The Lewis-born general manager has spent his whole life on Skye and was previously a fisherman
for eight years before switching to the hospitality industry. He has come through the ranks at the Flodigarry Hotel, working his way up from general assistant to his new role of general manager in nearly seven years at the hotel.
Christos Louca - The new restaurant manager has worked in several hotels and restaurants on Cyprus including the renowned Coral Beach Hotel and Resort for over three years, and most recently in the highly-rated Paphos seafront Bacchus Restaurant.
Gordon Mackay - Flodigarry’s new Maître D’ comes to the hotel after spending the last four years at Skye’s Three Chimneys and before that three years at the luxury Turnberry Hotel in Ayrshire.
Aleksandra Kaczor - The new bar manager is a familiar face at Flodigarry, having been first recruited two years ago. She soon found her natural habitat in the bar and returned last year as trainee bar manager and spent time gaining in-depth knowledge about whisky and cocktails.
This winter she also completed a week’s intensive training at The Kingsmills Hotel, Inverness.
Marton Gila - Flodigarry’s sous chef has been with the hotel for three years. He has progressed in the kitchen from chef de partie to sous chef.
Together with Chef Ryan’s food (see panel) and the possibility of awards in future, it is hoped that the coming decade will see the Flodigarry Hotel enhance its reputation and lever on this to capture more low season bookings and employ more full-time staff year-round.
One thing that is quite definitely not changing, though, is the restaurant’s spectacular view. “Maybe I am being slightly biased but I would say we have one of, if not the best views from our restaurant in Scotland,” adds Hector. “We do not try and be a pretentious restaurant. We want our guests to come in, relax and feel like they are visiting a family home, sampling great food and warm hospitality.”
Upping the gamewith a top-class restaurant
Issue 15 2020/20218
Issue 15 2020/2021 9
Casual Dining Award Regional Winner ~ Islands
Romantic Hotel of the YearRegional Winner ~ Islands
Flodigarry, Isle of Skye, IV51 9HZ01470 552203
www.hotelintheskye.co.ukwww.restaurant-isleofskye.co.uk
Award winning Flodigarry Hotel, Isle of Skye commands a panoramic position overlooking the sea
towards the Torridons on mainland Scotland.If you like super food, fine wine and malts; breathtaking mountain
and sea views, the great outdoors, wildlife walks, guided mountain and geological rambles, traditional story telling, ceilidhs, boat trips and fishing
or simply to go feet up with a book by a log fire - then Flodigarry is just right for you
INSIDE OUTVarragill HouseThe Green, PortreeIsle of Skye IV51 9BYTel: 01478 611663Open Mon-Sat 9-6
www.insideoutskye.com “walk this way”www.inside-out-skye.com
FineJewellery
by
Strathaird Steading, StrathairdIsle of Skye IV49 9AX Tel:01471 866 366www.duncan-house.com [email protected]
– Commissions welcome –
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Issue 15 2020/202110
Open Daily08:30 - 17:00
t: +44 1471 822 646 deligasta.co.uk
the old mill, broadford,isle of skye, iv49 9aq
fresh local food & artisan coffees
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be picked up. As Iain and I were battling the waves, he was watching us disappear behind them and praying we would reappear! I don’t know why he tortured
himself watching us, as there was nothing he could have done to help!”
The family formed a chicken farm, and regularly sent their chicks all over the
Western Isles. “I remember any time I went over to the Isle of Harris, I would talk with an elderly weaver who used to live
By Roz Macaskill
The year is 1949. A young couple from England are visiting an old friend on the Isle of Skye.
Whilst there, they take a day trip to the nearby Isle of Pabay – and fall instantly in love with the tiny island.
Upon making enquiries about the island, they discover the owner lives just up the road from their home back in the Midlands. In no time at all, the couple were the proud owners of a remote island in Scotland.
They moved there along with their two children to start a brand-new chapter in their lives – one that was to last for more than 20 years.
The couple, Len and Margaret Whatley, went on to bring up six children on the Isle of Pabay. One of those children, Stuart Whatley, reminisces about island life, saying: “I was two when we moved to the island – and I loved it. My grandparents moved to Broadford, which is just opposite Pabay on the Isle of Skye. I stayed with them to go to school, meaning I was only on Pabay during holidays and long weekends, so in a way it’s a bit of a fantasy place for me. I loved the demanding nature of life there and the challenge my parents had of making a farm work out there.”
As there was no electricity, Stuart and his family worked with Tilley lights and candles, before upgrading to a lorry alternator on a two-bladed windmill and, a decade after moving there, a diesel generator. “That gave us mains power and then we were able to use modern tools which should make life a lot easier,” Stuart explains.
Pabay, and snippets of Stuart’s life there, form the subject of Pabay: An Island Odyssey, written by Stuart’s cousin, Christopher A. Whatley.
Stuart and Christopher took a reminiscent trip back to Pabay in 2018, prior to the book’s publication. “Obviously, I’m biased but I think it’s a very interesting history of the island,” Stuart laughs. “Chris is a historian and has written some well-received books. I think he captures the history of the place from his deep research, but also a personal element from 20 years of visiting. He’s like a brother to me and we did a lot together, including playing Cowboys and Indians, which was in vogue back then, to going out fishing and getting blown out to sea.”
Getting blown out to sea was a regular event for Stuart. “My friend, Iain, and I went adventuring in a canoe one day,” he
relates. “I was used to going out in some pretty rough weather, but this was more so than usual! My father had swapped some chickens for a telescope from a U-Boat, so that we could check who was on the pier at Broadford and whether they needed to
In no time at all, Len and Margaret were proud owners of a remote island
Walking on Pabay
Len working in the pottery
Stuart throwing a jug
Contined on next page
Issue 15 2020/2021 Issue 15 2020/202112 13
there, and she would always remember the Pabay Chickens,” laughs Stuart.
“My most vivid memory is the feeling of family – warmth and togetherness. I knew I was loved, and that’s my abiding memory of living there.
“The crunch came when I was 14 and my father had a heart attack. It meant he just wasn’t the same dynamic character he had been, and it put pressure on my parents to leave and sell the island. My dad said that if I wanted it, he wouldn’t sell – but I didn’t enjoy being sent away from home to go to school. I found that pretty difficult, always looking out the window at either Broadford or Pabay, and wishing I was on the other side of the water. I didn’t want to do the same thing to my children, so we let the island go.”
The family later moved to Edinbane, forming the highly-popular Edinbane Pottery, and signifying the end of an era on the little island of Pabay.
These days, whenever Stuart passes through Broadford and looks towards his former home, he is reminded of a life of adventures, a warm family atmosphere and a happy childhood.
Pabay…An Island OdysseyReview by Fred SIlver
The tiny diamond-shaped island of Pabay lies in the Isle of Skye’s Inner Sound, just two-and-a-half miles
offshore, and with the mountains of the Highlands in the background for those gazing out to it from the fishing pier in Broadford.
One of five Hebridean islands of that name, it derives from the Norse papa-ey, meaning ‘island of the priests’ although its present spelling was only arrived at after the Ordnance Survey mapmakers arrived in the 1870s.
It remained heavily wooded into relatively recent times - now not regarded as a Hebridean characteristic although that famous lack of trees is entirely a result of the activities of man and his grazing animals destroying any chance of regeneration. Climate change since the last Ice Age played its part, too. Pabay was ‘full of woods’ according to the traveller Dean Monro in 1549. But by 1772, the tree cover had vanished.
To a quite extraordinary extent, the story of Pabay - as told in historian Christopher Whatley’s book Pabay…An Island Odyssey - mirrors the story of the wider islands, from
the ancient past to the era of the Saints in 600-800AD and on through the agricultural and industrial revolutions to the present day. Many visitors since the first holy men built their chapel there have felt that Pabay is a deeply spiritual place, and one of wonder. These include the great 19th-century geologists Hugh Miller and Archibald Geikie, for whom the island’s rocks and fossil-laden shales revealed much about the nature of Creation itself.
The book is built around the lives of Len and Margaret Whatley who moved to Pabay from the Midlands and lived there from 1950 until 1970. The author was Len’s nephew, and he, himself first visited the island at the age of three.
The Whatley’s role in Pabay’s story is a precursor to so many people’s odysseys from the cities to the Islands in recent years. Leaving a landlocked life in Birmingham for the emptiness of an uninhabited island was a brave and challenging move for which little could have prepared them. And Christopher says that the battle for survival was to lead to Len’s premature death.
This book of history is unusual in being based on archival research, oral interviews, memory and also direct personal experience.
Christopher Whatley explores the history of this tiny island, and the people for whom it has been home - stretching over thousands of years - to create a vivid picture of the trials, tribulations and attractions of island life.
Pabay…An Island Odyssey. 340 pages Birlinn. £20.
These articles were first published in the March-April 2020 edition of the Scottish Islands Explorer Magazine
Margaret knittingContinued from page 13
Issue 15 2020/202114
The Isle of Skye Estate Agency
www.iosea.co.uk Portree: 01478 612683
[email protected] Kyle: 01599 534 555
Looking to buy or Sell? Contact us.
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Issue 15 2020/2021 15
Take a little piece of Skye with you, wherever you go…
Broadford, IV49 9AB
I S L E O F S K Y E C A N D L E C O .
All our products are hand poured lovingly on the Isle of Skye.Visit us at our shop and workshop:
skyecandles.co.uk
Th
is advertisemen
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pdated from th
e display used in
the 2019 edition
Th
is advertisemen
t has n
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the 2019 edition
By Taylor Edgar
The Isle of Skye Candle Company celebrates 14 years in business this year; a milestone that’s testimony to their hard work and dedication.
But what has been the secret of their success? The short answer is innovation and never standing still to let competitors overtake them.
Founder, James Robertson, who formed the company at the tender age of 18, is – like so many people in business – an advocate of keeping things simple and playing to your strengths.
He told The Skye Magazine: “After having been in business for this many years, you do gain quite a lot of wisdom which helps with your next ventures. I’d have to say the main ones that I’d follow would be keeping things simple. Trying to be master of everything doesn’t tend to work too well, so stick to what you’re good at and specialise!”
Another lesson well-learnt is that imitation, while supposedly the sincerest form of flattery, means keeping ahead of the game by constantly refreshing your offering and keeping things exciting for the customer. As James notes, the Isle of Skye Candle Company has ten copycats at least in Scotland alone, a reality that requires constant innovation. “The second you stop being relevant is the second people stop wanting your products,” James points out.
However, getting to the point where the Isle of Skye Candle Company employed 40 people across Scotland at six separate locations has not been easy. For there are no easy fixes or magic secrets, except a lot of hard work, many calculated risks and being passionate.
“When you work for yourself, you’re lucky if you come close to paying yourself near the minimum wage,” remarks James. “But you just do it as you love what you do and always live in the hope that you are building something than some day will be more valuable. We’ve seen lots of competitors come and go over the years as I think a lot of people think it will be easy but they soon realise it’s not!”
Hard work and innovation are clearly two major components behind the Isle of Skye Candle Company’s success story. So what’s next?
Ambitious expansion plans for a visitor centre to create at least five more full-time jobs on Skye. With five existing outlets on the mainland in Glasgow, Edinburgh, St Andrews, Edinburgh and Inverness, the focus in 2020 and 2021 will be squarely on developing the visitor centre in Broadford. For the moment, further development outside Skye looks unlikely while the visitor centre remains the number one priority for the business.
The visitor centre, it is planned, will not only give customers a glimpse into the processes that go into creating Isle of Skye Candle Company products but also, it is hoped, a wellness area if an
imaginative funding approach captures the interest of local residents.
Reveals James: “We are focusing a lot of our attention at this moment on developing the new visitor centre which we hope will not only take the brand forward but also be a community asset and enhance the amenity of Broadford. In addition to the candle visitor centre, we would love to put in a wellness area, consisting of a sauna, jacuzzi and steam rooms, too. But rather than go to the banks for this we are going to try and crowdfund it so we can see for definite if there is that desire from the locality that we perceive there is.”
In the more immediate future, though, there are plans to move forward with product development and the consistent rollout of new products. This year will see the launch of a new addition to the company’s Scottish Collection as well as a new scent that will be exclusive to their Skye shop in Ford Road, Broadford.
“It will only be available in our Skye shop so when people make the effort to come over and visit us, they are getting to try something truly unique,” explains James.
Of course, none of this would be possible without the company founder being thoroughly steeped in the mystique of scented candles and the role they can play in health and well-being.
“Candles definitely play a big role in people’s well-being in my opinion. I know from my own personal experience that when I get back to the house and put on one of our candles that I’m instantly in chill mode, where I’ll get cosy and know that the next few hours are my own to relax and get my head clear,” says James.
It also helps that their candles smell amazing and certain candles in the range give a ‘wee boost’ from the essentials oils they contain. The Isle of Skye Candle Company lavender-fragranced candle, for instance, promotes sleep while the lemongrass candle is credited with an ability to lift your mood. Adds James: “I honestly do think they work for that and would challenge any sceptic to try it out before knocking it.”
Are you ready to take up his challenge? History and the longevity of the Isle of Skye Candle Company tend to suggest James is right.
Keeping business simple…
and successful
Issue 15 2020/202116
Issue 15 2020/2021
Take a little piece of Skye with you, wherever you go…
Broadford, IV49 9AB
I S L E O F S K Y E C A N D L E C O .
All our products are hand poured lovingly on the Isle of Skye.Visit us at our shop and workshop:
skyecandles.co.uk17
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www.mistyisleboattrips.co.ukEmail: [email protected]
Misty Isle Boat Trips is a family-run business running boat trips from Elgol on the Isle of Skye to the famous Loch Coruisk in the heart of the Cuillin Hills.
We also offer trips out to Rum, Canna or any of the other nearby islands giving you the chance to look for the wildlife which abounds in these waters.
Issue 15 2020/202120
Anyone in search of one place on Skye that encapsulates a taste of everything should spend a day in
Strath and the scattered community of Elgol. This is an inimitable area, neither North Skye nor South Skye; neither MacLeod land nor MacDonald, but rather MacKinnon country. Here’s a clan adept at keeping the peace with both those timeless warring factions - which is prob-ably why they acquired the derogatory nickname ‘Two-Faced’.
This was one of the first places I visited on Skye; I always was one for tracing roads not before taken. What I found was a loch-probed sanctuary not only blessed with fascinating and widely varied walking terrain, but with ruined villages, stone circles, limestone caves, sandstone cliffs, prehistoric cairns, great glens, coastal geos, and a tremendous wealth of social and natural history.
At times I’ve launched frenzied attacks on the area, charging about manically, visiting as much as possible. At others I’ve peaceably plodded the trails to the
cleared villages of Boreraig and Suisnish, or perched quietly on a green knoll that bears the name An Sithean, the ‘Fairy Hill’, chatting with the fairies about this and that, like you do. An Sithean gives a good view of Coire-chat-achan, the MacKinnon home twice visited by Johnson and Boswell during their visit to Skye in 1773, and a year earlier by Thomas Pennant.
The key to the area is that seemingly innocuous road that sets off south-west from Broadford, first entering the broad Strath Suardal beneath the red-scree hills of Beinn na Caillich, Beinn Dearg Mhor and Beinn Dearg Bheag. Endowed richly with the tang of the wild, and heavy with the charm of the past, aeons ago the glen was the source of the immense and violent volcanic upheaval that fashioned this part of Skye.
Strath, too, was a major centre of religious importance since the earliest times, laced with evidence of both paganism and Christianity. Quite often you find the remnants of both forms of religion almost side by side, ruined churches standing close by stone circles, a clear suggestion that although the missionary saints sought
to convert the pagan people of Skye to Christianity they were not so foolhardy as to demolish their sacred places. The ivy- and cotoneaster-clad ruins of Cill Chriosd church, for example, resisting the winds of time, are surrounded by a graveyard much older than the church, and which may date from prehistoric times.
On a clear day, Strath Suardal is a theatre of great presence, you enter it in expectation of a great performance, and that’s what you get. But wreathed in mist, it assumes an eerie air, and favours well the claim that ‘The waste is haunted ... by Ludag, a malignant goblin, that in the 18th Century used to be seen at dusk hopping with immense hops on its one leg and that, enveloped in rags, and with fierce misery in its hollow eye, has dealt heavy blows, it is said, on the cheeks of benighted travellers.’ Further into the glen, Loch Cill Chriosd, too, is said to be haunted, by a terrible monster that laid waste to the land and carried off and devoured women and children.
Soon the glen runs out to the crofting
Strathaird and Elgol… ancient and varied by Terry Marsh
Contined on next page
Issue 15 2020/2021 21
township of Torrin, and on to the shores of Loch Slapin, beyond which towers the great grey, splintered bulk of Bla Bheinn, inspiration of many poems, and considered by Alexander Nicolson, local pioneer of Cuillin exploration, to be the finest hill on Skye.
Then, at the end of Srath Mór, the Elgol road loops around the head of Loch Slapin, to meander down the Strathaird peninsula, from where Prince Charles Edward Stuart finally left Skye for mainland Scotland, en route to France. On the way, the journey passes Loch na Sguabaidh, for years occupied by a water-horse whose principal occupation seems to have been carrying off any pretty girl who wandered within his reach.
Plain lassies were thought to be safe
On the shores of Loch Scavaig
Continued from page 22 enough; indeed, to have been captured by the water-horse and to have escaped was to assure your reputation as a beauty. The creature’s taste for mischief, however, eventually led to his demise, as, on the way to Loch na Creitheach, the beast was killed by MacKinnon of Strath on Bealach na Beiste (the Pass of the Beast).
Elgol lies scattered across the hillside slipping down into Loch Scavaig, ending at the jetty and the tiny schoolroom above the ankle-twisting boulder beach. A well-known feature here is the line of cliffs of pale-coloured sandstone with conspicuous honeycomb weathering caused by, among other things, sand grains from the sea in rough weather pitting the sandstone: over thousands of years this pattern is formed.
From the jetty, boat trips operate into the recess of Loch Coruisk, offering an
intimate view of the renowned Black Cuillin, probably better seen as a whole from Elgol than anywhere else on Skye, save from the summit of Bla Bheinn. To the west, the low-lying island of Soay was the 1940s base of Gavin Maxwell’s basking shark fishing industry, an odd pursuit for one who was later to build his renown on conservation and otters. It was with some trepidation that 20 years ago, my wife and I ventured out to Soay by dinghy-boat, and climbed to the top of the island, as Maxwell had done. There was no need for words when we got there; the scenery said it all.
But many would argue that the splendour of Strathaird is Spar Cave, on the east side of the peninsula, not far from Rubha na h-Easgainne. In Walter Scott’s The Lord of the Isles, this is the ‘mermaid’s alabaster grot’ of which Allan is dreaming moments before he is murdered: ‘And o’er his head the dazzling spars, Gleam like a firmament of stars’. In his Journal, Scott describes ‘a splendid gallery, adorned with the most dazzling crystallisations, [that] descends with rapidity to the brink of a pool, of the most limpid water’. This was certainly one of the sights of Skye during Scott’s day, but many of its loveliest ‘spars’ were stolen as souvenirs.
The cave was formed when a basaltic dyke was eroded by wave action to form a deep cleft and was frequently visited during the nineteenth century. It is accessible only for a short period each day, when the tide is low. Inside, at the foot of a stairway of fluorspar running with a sheen of water, your brain tells you that certain death awaits anyone attempting to climb. Yet this waterfall of calcium fluoride
has remarkably adhesive qualities, and not only have I safely climbed to peer down into the dark water of Scott’s ‘limpid water’ but seen visitors of all ages do it.
In Gaelic the cave is called Slochd Altrimen, the ‘Cave of the Nursling’, which commemorates a tale from the ninth century. Once, when the Lords of Skye were away fighting, the King of Ulster attacked the Hebrides and carried off Colonsay’s son as a hostage. On returning from the inevitable revenge trip, the ship was wrecked in Loch Slapin, and the young Colonsay only saved by the speedy intervention of a Skye princess, Dounhuila, who sent people to rescue him.
Alas, her father and his were at odds, and so young Colonsay spent his time imprisoned in Dun Glass. Dounhuila, however, fell in love with him, and bore him a child, which she entrusted a servant to keep in the Spar Cave, visiting only to nurse the child. Colonsay’s dog, also saved in the shipwreck, was their guardian against wild beasts and outside interference - that, and a web of tales about a haunted cave where mermaids sang and drove men mad.
But, for me, the gem of this remarkable amphitheatre is a minor summit passed by many and ignored by most, on the narrow road to Glasnakille. It has no name but bears an OS trig pillar with the height marker for 118 metres. Go on a clear day and you will be treated to a panorama second to none; a perfect place to breathe in Skye’s beauty.
This article was first published in the January-February 2020 edition of the Scottish Islands Explorer Magazine.
Kilchrist church
Inside Spar Cave
Issue 15 2020/2021 Issue 15 2020/202122 23
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Hands-on working bakery serving great coffee, freshly baked breads & cakes, & lunch all day! Something for everyone, from fans of black pudding
to gluten-free vegetarians, fussy kids to true romantics.
We love food as much as you do.
Off Dunvegan Road, Portree IV51 9HF
01478 612 669Open Mon to Sat
10am to 5pm
Pam Carter
t: 01471 833 439/332 m: 07715015752 w: www.pamcarter.co.uk e: [email protected]
Showing my island paintings at this remote gallery at Isle Ornsay in this most beautiful location on Skye has been quite an institution. This would have been my 29th year manning the show, but due to the coronavirus restrictions my exhibition will sadly not be going ahead at the gallery. However, it is online! From 23 July - 5 September.It includes large dramatic landscape paintings, Skye and island locations, and charming small paintings. You can also buy prints online in my shop, which includes some new prints produced for this year.The exhibition can be viewed on my website, and paintings can be purchased in my online shop. If you wish to discuss or reserve a painting, please contact me by email, or phone: 01360 620 830 or 07715 015 752
A SKYE CONNECTION
By Roz Macaskill
There’s a certain quality of lightness about Pam Carter’s paintings.
Whether it’s a sun ray slanting through moody Hebridean clouds, or an explosion of colour setting fire to a sunset sky, Pam’s work is full of light.
Perhaps unconsciously Pam is portraying clues about her personality – sunny, light and very strong.
“For me, light is synonymous with hope,” the artist says. “ That is my strength and my inspiration.”
Pam’s ability to find light in the darkest situations has already proven invaluable as she fights against cancer for the second time. The original diagnosis was, in Pam’s own words “fairly brutal” with an initial prognosis that the artist had merely
months to live.
“This was one of the hardest things to come to terms with,” Pam admits. “But my strong faith in God, prayer, friendship and support carried me through. Further tests showed a better outlook as, in fact, the cancer came from the breast and was not a new cancer.”
Despite fairly hefty medication, Pam is determined to get back to some form of normality. She is painting again, albeit a bit slower, and is playing her racquet sport, Pickleball, four times a week.
One of the highlights of Pam’s year is her annual exhibition at Gallery An Talla Dearg, Isle Ornsay. Pam has been exhibiting there in the south of Skye for nearly three decades and her 29th annual exhibition will run from 18 July to 7 September. Pam comments: “This year’s exhibition once again will have paintings and prints from
the islands along with mugs, calendars and cards. I will be at the Gallery some of the time and not far away if you want to make an appointment to see me.”
Good news also came in the form of various awards for Pam. November 2019 saw the artist receive the Paisley Art Institute Diploma. Pam comments: “This is a lovely recognition from my peers, so I can now sign my name as: Pam Carter DA PAI!”
Pam also received an award from the Morning Side Gallery at the Glasgow Art Club for her depiction of stormy reflections in Tiree.
Whether the light around her is moody or bright, Pam’s fighting spirit means she will not only capture it in her paintings but let it shine brightly in her life.
Artist Pam… sunny, light and
very strong
Issue 15 2020/202126
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27Issue 15 2020/2021
100% PURE SCOTTISH SEA SALTPremium quality, multi-award winning sea salt made on the Isle of Skye using only the sun and the wind.
Our eco-friendly, natural, evaporation process produces exceptional, raw unrefined sea salt crystals with a robust flavour and soft finish.
Our beautiful card packaging is re-usable and recyclable.
Find out more about us: www.isleofskyeseasalt.co.uk75g and 150g tubs available at outlets throughout Skye & Lochalsh or on-line.
By Taylor Edgar
The Isle of Skye Sea Salt Company has been on a go-slow, and it is winning them awards and national TV exposure.
The Isle of Skye Sea Salt Company is proving that good things come to those who wait. Now, some nine years since setting out on their ethical business adventure to produce top-quality, unrefined sea salt in a natural way, they are reaping the rewards of their patience and unwavering belief.
From the outset, being eco-friendly was front and centre in their plans, a move that has proven to be a canny business ethos. Co-founders, Chris Watts and Nanette Muir explain that low
environmental impact has been central to their approach to the business but equally, they have been determined to produce top-quality, unrefined sea salt in a natural way.
Harnessing the power of the sun and wind to make sea salt is a slow natural process, but one that has earned international recognition.
The approach has plainly resonated with many as it is clear that the Isle of Skye Sea Salt Company is paying more than lip-service to the ideal. For being kind to the environment extends from not only the renewable energy-powered salt evaporation process but runs as a common thread through all their business operations from sea loch to shelf.
“Our process, which is unique in the UK, uses just the sun and wind to evaporate the seawater in polytunnels and is the most visible example of our green approach,” says Chris. “But we also use card packaging which can be re-used and/or recycled; we re-use the boxes in which our supplies are delivered to send out our sea salt to customers; almost all of the equipment used on our main site can be recycled at end of life and the site itself can be returned to its natural state if the business no longer operates from there.”
With recycling and an all-natural process at the heart of their brand offering, it is perhaps little wonder that the company’s raw and unrefined sea salt, with its distinctive taste and texture, is exciting consumer palates and the desire for low impact artisan products.
Says Chris: “There is a growing demand for top quality products with great provenance. made in an environmentally-friendly way. This demand is coming from consumers, chefs and retailers and so this is the main driver in growing sales. While the majority of sales are direct to consumers or through retailers, we also supply a number of restaurants including some of the top restaurants on Skye – Three Chimneys, Lochbay, Edinbane Lodge and Kinloch Lodge, and The Stein Inn.”
Increasingly, the Isle of Skye Sea Salt Company is also supplying food producers including chocolatiers, bakers, gin makers, cereal producers and others. Notes Chris: “It’s great to collaborate and have a wide range of users of the product which is a real endorsement of both quality and the process.”
Finding a natural way to salty success
Continued on page 43
Issue 15 2020/202128
STEP ACROSS AND DISCOVER THE MAGIC - ALL YEAR ROUND!
w w w. v i s i t - w a t e r n i s h . c o . u k
Specialising in mixed media and watercolour, Duncan Currie’s main inspirations are the mountain scenery of Skye and beyond, as well as the fishing boats seen in the harbours of the West Coast.
A range of paintings, reproductions, prints and cards are on show and work by a number of other artists may be seen. Prices vary and should suit all pockets.
Old Pier Road, Broadford, Isle of SkyeTel: 01471 822 064 [email protected]
www.duncancurrie.net
Open 11am – 6pm Monday – Saturday (Winter 12-6pm)(Also open in the evening – if I’m in!)
29Issue 15 2020/2021
w e s t c o a s t
W E A V E R SI S L E O F S K Y E
Come and see our traditional looms, watch us at work,chat about the weaving process and discover a unique
collection of blankets, scarves, throws, bags, wall-hangings and more in our small shop.
We look forward to welcoming you soon!
Westcoast Weavers, Ellishadder, Nr Staffin, Isle of Skye IV51 9JE01470 562 734 www.westcoastweavers.co.uk
By Roz Macaskill
Culture, tradition, pleasure, creation – when Maggie Williams purchased her Hattersley loom, she was also
purchasing a machine that could tell a thousand stories.
The loom is the latest addition to Maggie’s weaving world at Westcoast Weavers at the north end of Skye.
“I always wanted a Hattersley – they’re as rare as hen’s teeth, in good condition, so when I saw this one, I jumped at it,” laughs Maggie. “It used to belong to a gentleman on Lewis, who used to weave Tweed on it, then it made its way down to Preston where it was lovingly restored. I like the fact that it’s come almost all the way back home!”
Maggie will use the Hattersley for more traditional structures, such as twills for scarves and wraps, while her Dobby loom will allow her to experiment.
“You can weave a lot more variety on the Dobby as it has 16 shafts,” Maggie reveals. “The more shafts you have, the
more complicated the designs you can make. The Hattersley loom has four shafts and is more mechanised, so the weaving process is a lot quicker but the designs a lot simpler.”
2020 has already seen some major changes for Maggie and her business – not least of which is a name change. “We were previously the Ellishadder Gallery, but that didn’t necessarily get across what it is that I do,” explains Maggie. “We are now Westcoast Weavers.
“This will also be the first year that I have completely done away with the café – so a name-change to celebrate exactly what we do made sense.”
Maggie, who has been running the café for eight years, will now be able to fully concentrate on the creative process behind the weaving. “I’m hoping I never see another sunrise again,” Maggie laughs, referring to her many early rises to bake for the café. “I moved to Skye from Cumbria to get a better work/life balance, but found it was actually worse when I tried to work in the café and at the loom.
“My only trips out were to post orders or
do shopping, so something had to change. Doing away with the café will free me up creatively. All my weaving took place out of season and I’d give myself four weeks to come up with new ideas, so there was constant pressure. I am looking forward to concentrating on the weaving and I have so many ideas for new patterns, designs and products!”
Westcoast Weavers already have an impressive range of products, each featuring Maggie’s unique perspective on island life translated into textiles. Cushions, prints, scarves and throws, all paying homage to Skye’s misty days, summer skies, lichen rocks and heather moors, are available in luxurious lambswool.
“I love the softness of lambswool, as opposed to courser, harder-wearing materials,” explains Maggie. “You want something nice and gentle against your skin, so I usually work with lambswool, as well as merino wool.”
When you visit Maggie’s shop, you’re not just looking at lovingly-made textiles: you’re looking at an artistic tribute to Skye in fabric form.
New start as Maggie sticks to weaving!
Issue 15 2020/202130
By Roz Macaskill
“It’s totally legal, naturally relaxing and adds an extra dimension to our coffee,” says Tom Eveling, Director
of Broadford’s Café Sia.
Tom is talking about the latest addition to the café’s coffee selection: CBD oil.
“As well as our standard range of coffees, you can order one with CBD oil,” explains Tom. “It comes from the cannabis plant and is naturally relaxing with therapeutic benefits.
“It’s not anything to do with THC, the psychoactive and illegal part of the plant - CBD oil can be bought in any pharmacy. Although good for relaxing you, it doesn’t necessarily stop the caffeine kick of the coffee: it just keeps you awake and mellows you out!”
Café Sia opened its doors in 2014 and quickly gained a reputation for its melt-in-the-mouth pizzas, cooked inside a wood-fired oven. Tom and the team celebrated their sixth anniversary in March.
“Sia means ‘six’ in Gaelic, and the theme of six can be found in our menu, so it was an important event to mark,” says Tom. “We are looking forward to the next six years!”
Keeping food yummy and healthy is a priority for Tom and the team. “Pizza isn’t necessarily associated with health, but I’m trying to make it as good as possible for people!” reveals Tom.
“So many customers have dietary requirements and it’s important to cater for them. One way we’ll be doing that this year is with our mini-burger sliders. We’re introducing a slightly cheaper, all new, low-carb, dairy-free version, with no bun. It’s especially for people who want a burger without all the carbs and gluten.”
Another new menu edition includes a grilled chicken and zucchini salad with sun-blushed tomatoes, as well as the usual selection of flavoursome pizzas and delicious desserts.
“We’ve also added a new breakfast/brunch menu which should make things a lot clearer and easier for customers while allowing us to showcase our pre-midday options,” adds Tom.
If you’re visiting the café with your bicycle, then the café’s latest external improvement is just for you. Tom says: “We want to be bike friendly, so we have a brand-new bike rack. It’s located around the back of the café near the Spar shop. At the moment, we have six slots.”
And, for those wanting to take a little piece of Café Sia home with them, the renovated retail area has a range of options. “The retail area is in the entrance area and we have our very own Café Sia takeaway cup for sale, as well as postcards, art-work, brooches, bags of coffee, fridge magnets, candles and a cook book featuring the café.”
So, whether you’re wanting a funky twist on coffee, a mouth-watering pizza or somewhere to relax while you soak in Skye views, Café Sia has something especially for you.
Coffee goes mellow at
Café Sia
01471 822616
Our locally sourced menu includes delicious freshly
made pizza from our Tuscan wood fired oven.
Enjoy speciality wines and cocktails as well as our
artisan drum fired coffees, roasted in-house.
Relax beneath the Red Cuillin hills in a family friendly atmosphere.
Food served all day.
Can’t stop? Try our new takeaway for a quick grab & go!EAT, DRINK, RELAX
01471 822616
Our locally sourced menu includes delicious freshly
made pizza from our Tuscan wood fired oven.
Enjoy speciality wines and cocktails as well as our
artisan drum fired coffees, roasted in-house.
Relax beneath the Red Cuillin hills in a family friendly atmosphere.
Food served all day.
Can’t stop? Try our new takeaway for a quick grab & go!
Broadford • Isle of Skye • 01471 822616www.cafesia.co.uk
Can’t stop?Try our new takeaway for a quick grab & go!
BROADFORD ISLE OF SKYE
Our locally sourced menu includes
delicious freshly made pizza from our Tuscan
wood fired oven.
Enjoy speciality wines and cocktails as well as local artisan drum fired
coffees, homemade sorbets and ice creams.
Relax beneath the Red Cuillin hills in a family friendly atmosphere.
Food served all day.
Issue 15 2020/2021 31
By Taylor Edgar
Very few people can claim to have fallen in love and found paradise at the same time. But that’s exactly what hap-pened to Louise Mackenzie Jones eight years ago when
she first set foot on the Isle of Skye.
It was a case of love at first sight, but more than just a holiday romance as Louise, founder of Lou Lou Designs, immediately on returning home set to work on planning a big move north. Due to the circumstances at the time, it was a brave “by any means necessary” leap of faith.
“I fell in love with Skye as soon as we first arrived here on holiday. After having lived in Edinburgh, Skye was simply spectacular,” says Louise. “It instantly felt like I truly belonged here.”
Eventually, Louise and her partner Peter bit the bullet, packed up their belongings and made their way to Skye. “We moved into an old house at a very reduced rent and after buying food and essentials, we literally had £40 left,” laughs Louise.
Undeterred by their limited cash, the pair were determined to give the Isle of Skye their very best shot. Serendipity, it turned out, would play her another good hand. While visiting a souvenir shop, Louise got her first up-close look at Harris Tweed.
“That was it, really. I became fascinated with Harris Tweed and quickly fell in love with that too,” recalls Louise.
The chance encounter with Harris Tweed would prove to be a defining moment for Louise and the catalyst that gave birth to Lou Lou Designs.
“I started sewing bags out of scrap pieces of Harris Tweed. Back then I couldn’t afford to buy lengths like I do now. Fortunately, people seemed to love my bags and everything just took off from there. Lou Lou Designs was born and everything just simply grew arms and legs,” recalls Louise.
Spool forward to today and life is looking pretty rosy for Louise. “I am so grateful to Skye and all the support I have received over the years. I have a lot to be thankful for. We now have a pretty comfortable life thanks to the Isle of Skye and Harris Tweed,” says Louise. “When we moved here, we had no idea how things would turn out.”
Fortune does indeed favour the brave, it would appear. For not only has Louise a new lifestyle far removed from the rat race of Edinburgh, she now has a thriving business to boot.
Just how far she has become embedded in Skye was amply demonstrated on a recent dream holiday to Bali. “It was supposed to be a paradise, but I didn’t like it. I just wanted to get home to Skye the entire time we were there,” remembers Louise.
Ironically, paradise was not a tropical island in the east, but a drizzly paradise island in the north-west of Scotland!
Looking back to their first year on the Isle of Skye, Louise recollects that it was the year of the Commonwealth Games. “Skye was empty that summer. All the tourists were down in Glasgow for the Games, the place was really quiet. On top of that, it was that time there were eight or so straight weeks of sunshine. We were living the dream. Then the winter kicked in and people were saying, ‘If you can survive the winter, you’ll be fine’. We did, and we are still here.”
Today, Louise is continuing to live the dream: “Friends will phone on a Sunday from the mainland and moan about work on Monday. And I’m like, ‘It’s Monday tomorrow?’ You can’t put a price on that feeling of loving your work.”
Indeed, as time goes on, there is no sign of her love affair with Harris Tweed diminishing any time soon. Nor with the Isle of Skye.
While she may be a homebird at heart, Louise enjoys championing Harris Tweed to customers across the UK and meeting with suppliers. One of her favourite trips is her annual visit to Donald John (DJ) Mackay, of Luskentyre Harris Tweed, on the Isle of Harris. He has woven Harris Tweed for the likes of Chanel, Nike and Clarks shoes.
“He’s a lovely man. I always enjoy visiting, and even though I have only met him face-to-face maybe three times, he always
Living the dream in her own Island paradise
Hashtag for bespoke bagsIn March 2020, Lou Lou Designs took part in the #marchmeetthemaker online viral campaign. The hashtag was used as an opportunity for craft makers to showcase their skills and wares to a global audience. Every day in March had a different theme which creatives could interpret and apply to their business to produce fresh web content in a truly international marketing campaign.
For Lou Lou Designs, #marchmeetthemaker was an opportunity to get its bespoke bags in front of potential customers they might not have been otherwise able to reach.
Lou Lou Designs are on Facebook at facebook.com/louloudesignsonskye
Uig, Isle of Skye, IV51 9YE Tel: 01470 542 205www.uighotel.com www.uiglodge.com
Great food, great local beers and over 100 single malt whiskies to choose from
Three minutes drive from the ferry port for services with the Outer Hebrides, with fantastic
views out across Uig Bay Dogs welcome. Open to non-residents
Carbost IV47 8ST Tel: 01478 640512
As you come down into the village of Carbost follow the signs on the side of the road
Handmade Bespoke Harris Tweed Handbags, cases and brooches
All designed by Lou Lou herself
Each item is a one off
This advertisement has not yet been updated from the display used in the previous editionThis advertisement has not yet been updated from the display used in the previous edition
Inga’s Sweet Treats2 Wentworth Street, Portree,
Isle of Skye IV51 9EJTel: 01478 612377
[email protected]/ingassweettreats
www.edinbane-pottery.co.ukIsle of Skye Tel: 01470 582 234
Edinbane PotteryWORKSHOP & GALLERY
Open all yearMon-Fri 9am-6pm
7 days Easterto October
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Fruit and vegetable whole foods and vegetarian foods
The Royal Hotel Bank St, Portree IV51 9BU T: 01478 612525
The perfect setting for any visit to the beautiful Island of Skye!
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instantly recognises me. DJ is such a sweet man, he always gives me a little gift before I leave. One time it was a little plaque I could use at trade shows, and another time it was a chalk sharpener,” Louise explains.
No matter where she roams, though, the magnetic pull of the Isle of Skye draws her back: “I love living here. I am here for life. I can’t imagine living anywhere else now.”
Issue 15 2020/2021 Issue 15 2020/202132 33
Neist Point at sunsetAlexander Macaskill of Skyelight Photography
Issue 15 2020/202134
By Roz Macaskill
From working at the Ritz, to being nicknamed by Gordon Ramsay, to forming his own smokehouse business on the Isle of Skye, there can be no doubt that John Corfield has
had a rich and varied career so far.
And it's only getting more exciting for him in his recent venture.
"I'm originally from Derbyshire and have been here for eight years now," relates John. "I ventured into the cooking industry after a season in France. The chef where I worked was stressed and got me to help and I started to enjoy it."
John went on to work in the Ritz, where he had to hit the ground running, working on a fast-paced operation in the larder section, preparing the afternoon teas. “From there I wanted to work at the best place possible, so I applied to twelve different Michelin star restaurants and then got a phone call from one of them asking if I could come in for a trial. It was very early in the morning, so I honestly thought it was a practical joke!"
Fortunately for John, the offer was real – and resulted in John joining the team at Gordon Ramsay's triple Michelin star restaurant in Chelsea. He says: "Gordon Ramsay called me Blondie as I had blond hair! I worked in the pastry section and as the night baker, which taught me to be very precise and detailed.”
After a year of working 18 hours a day in a high-stress environment, John began to search for a slower pace of life and formed his own company recruiting chefs for restaurants. However, his life took a different turn when he and his future wife visited Skye on holiday. John explains: "We were lured in with warm temperatures and blue skies, and quickly fell in love with the island. We bought a house in Ard Dorch, outside Broadford, and ran our own B&B.
"My passion for food and drink was revived. I began cooking scrambled eggs, pancakes and, of course, salmon. Then, I thought I'd make my own smoked salmon with a wee smoker. It was about this time that I realised there was no smokehouse on Skye."
Another lightbulb moment came for John when he attended an exhibition at the Aros Centre in Portree. "I'd been thinking for some time about where I could smoke the salmon," he reveals. "I wanted everything to be done manually. The Aros were running an exhibition on St Kilda and I saw the cleits. I thought that would be a really interesting building for a smokehouse and it would have a historic connection between Skye and St. Kilda."
With help from his neighbour, archaeologist Martin Wildgoose, John was able to build his very own smokehouse based on the St Kilda buildings. Complete with woodfired ovens, the smokehouse pays tribute to the traditional smoking methods and are fully approved premises.
John chose to use alder wood in order to best complement the flavours of the salmon. "It's more traditional to use oak wood or peat, but there is no oak on Skye and I found the peat gave the fish too strong a flavour," reveals John. "I process all the wood
myself by hand, removing the bark and moss. Eventually, I would like to try different woods as not every fish will lend itself to alder and I would like to include mackerel as one of our smoked products."
Producing one batch of smoked salmon takes John three days. "I spend half a day preparing the brines," he explains. "Getting the wood ready takes one to two hours. And then I take a day to prepare the salmon. I tend to fillet 30 salmon in a day, which equates to 60 fillets. I soak them in brine for 30 hours and let them dry for 12 hours. They are then smoked for eight hours."
The finished product has won silver at the Scottish Speciality Food Show in Glasgow in 2019 – and is fast gaining popularity with locals and visitors alike.
"We regularly hold tasting sessions twice a week," John says. Visitors are treated to an hour-long tour around the premises, viewing the smokehouse and kitchen, and then welcomed into the B&B area to sample the products.
A delicious bon bon, featuring the salmon flavoured with ginger and coriander; a blini with beetroot disc topped with a quenelle of smoked salmon mousse; and a quirky twist on traditional Cullen skink are all included as part of the taster menu.
"The tour is a new addition and it's pretty good value," enthuses John. "The more I can use natural elements, the more authentic the food feels. The idea is to include different textures and tastes and change them up regularly."
To find out more about John's tours and savour his mouth-watering smoked fish, visit his website here: https://www.skyesmokehouse.co.uk/.
Isle of Skye
Hot-SmokedSalmon
“truly artisan and perfectly balanced”
An Air BnB experience
Isle of Skye
Hot-SmokedSalmon
“truly artisan and perfectly balanced”
An Air BnB experience
Learn about the techniques of smoking and curing. Sample canapes of hot smoked salmon, Cullen Skink, Smoked salmon mousse on beetroot and blini.
+44(0)7703 021321(booking essential)
2 Ard Dorch, Isle of Skye IV49 9AJ
Available from… Isle of Skye Baking Company (Portree), An Crubh (Sleat)The Top Shop (Broadford), Beths Deli (Balmacara), Fishermans Kitchen (Kyle)
SkyeSmokehouse.co.uk
“John is warm, charming and an amazing chef.” Jerda
“What an absolutely fantastic way to experience a little of the unique culture of the Hebrides than to experience the art of smoking fish.” Lavinda
Tour & tasting
Isle of Skye Smokehouse
Issue 15 2020/2021 35
By Roz Macaskill
“Every so often, an octopus will pop up and that keeps our specials menu really exciting,” says Deirdre Curley, a director
of Sligachan Hotel.
She is referring to the varied natural larder all around Skye’s coastline – with ingredients regularly making an appearance in the hotel’s menu.
“Our chefs pick up seafood from boats around the island every day,” explains Deirdre. “We are so lucky to have fresh sea food on our doorstep. We never know what we will get – and that helps keep our menus varied.”
And it’s not just the menus which have regular updates. The luxury rooms inside the hotel have been the subject of a recent renovation. Deirdre relates: “We have completed the latest phase of our developments for the room, which involved a refurbishment of five new bedrooms.
“We wanted to go with a sophisticated design and create a room that you want to come and cosy up in after a day’s adventuring.”
Deirdre, and her husband Gary, will renovate a further seven bedrooms next winter before completing the final stage of their room upgrades.
The expansive hotel, which features popular and lively Seumas’ Bar - plus warm and personal
Mackenzie’s Bar - has had a good year when it comes to awards and accolades. Deirdre enthuses: “We won Best Bar in the Highlands in the Scottish Tourism Awards and were named as a finalist for the Best Eatery at the Highlands and Islands Food and Drink Awards. We were also runner up for the Best Bar in Scotland at the Scottish Thistle Awards.”
With Seumas’ Bar boasting over 400 whiskies, as well as locally-made ales and beers, it’s easy to see why. “This year, we are also serving Cuillin Brewery’s fresh tank beer,” explains Deirdre. “We have a micro-brewery on site and their beer is super-fresh and amazing.” Hotel customers can arrange tours of the brewery and enjoy ale tasting events.
The hotel, which has been in Deirdre’s family for decades, is very close to the couple’s heart. Deirdre comments: “It’s a great place to stop for lunch, experience live music or have dinner.
“We can cater for all kinds of travellers, as we have a campsite bunkhouse, lodges and hotel accommodation.
“We also have a playpark for children, and we are based at the starting point for so many famous walks on the island. We believe people could spend a whole day here and still find more to experience!
“Whether you’re staying outdoors or indoors, you can really experience the whole of Skye from Sligachan Hotel.”
Seafood bonanza keeps menus fresh
Sligachan Hotel is situated in the heart of the spectacular Cuillin Hills. The hotel offers something for everyone from
relaxing accomodation, an impressive collection of over 400 whiskies should you wish to sample some of Scotland’s finest malts, Seumas’ Bar serving the best of local produce food all day, famous for the best Ceilidh Nights every Saturday on the Island, a large playpark for children to enjoy and is also home
to the Cuillin Brewery, our own micro brewery which has 4 main ales - Pinnacle, Old Bridge, Eagle and Black Face.
Sligachan is rich in history with this family-run hotel now in its fourth generation, which you can learn about in their museum inside the main hotel. The views from this hotel are nothing short of stunning with plenty routes beginning here for many
walks for all capabilities.
Head to their website www.sligachan.co.uk for rates and a full event listing of what’s coming up.
SLIGACHAN, ISLE OF SKYE, IV47 8SW
T: 01478 650 204E: [email protected]
Issue 15 2020/202136
SCONSER LODGE HOTEL
Sconser Lodge Hotel Sconser, Isle of Skye IV48 8TDTel: +44 (0)1478 650 333
Email: [email protected]: www.sconserlodge.co.uk
Built in 1871 as a hunting box for the MacDonalds, Sconser Lodge is now a delightful hotel, where you are assured a friendly, relaxing stay. Its central location between Portree and Broadford makes it an ideal base for exploring the whole of Skye, or the Isle of Raasay, a short ferry trip away.
We aim to offer a relaxing, comfortable stay with a traditional country house atmosphere, and can promise a warm and friendly welcome to all our guests. We are right on the sea shore with our own jetty and mooring, where you may see a visiting otter. Seals and dolphins have also been known to put in an appearance. The building features original pine panelling and open fires where we burn peat and logs.
Our eight bedrooms, which include a family suite and a triple room, are all well appointed. Many have stunning sea and loch views. All have ensuite shower or bathrooms. A travel cot and high chair are available on request.
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A great Local menuEthically & sustainably sourced
•Earlybirdselection •Hot&coldfilledrolls •Freshlygroundcoffee
Stunning views over to Applecross & Lochcarron
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Aiming to cater for all tastes and diets…
By Roz Macaskill
Freshly-ground coffee on an early morning, ocean views, vegan options – all of the above and more can be found at Sia Fish & Chips in Broadford.
The sister-company of nearby Café Sia opened its doors under Tom Eveling's management in 2019 – and since then has evolved to become Broadford's go-to takeaway stop with an impressive vegan offering.
"I like to think we are one of the few chip shops around that offer that," explains Tom. "We have a formalised vegan menu with a burger option, haggis, sausage, sausage roll, fish cake and some vegan nuggets. I think they taste really good, especially the burger."
If you've got dietary requirements, Sia Fish & Chips has a wide range of options and available meals including a gluten-free alternative to malt vinegar. "It's something people want, and hopefully they'll think it's a bit unusual for a chip shop to have so many things for them to eat!" explains Tom.
"We have a breakfast box, and a veggie breakfast box. I'm trying to make our food as healthy as I possibly can, including swapping our vegetable oil for beef dripping. Vegetarian customers can have theirs without the beef dripping, but the beef oil is supposed
to be healthier and it tastes good too!"
In fact, the whole team benefited from a crucial training boost last November when they enjoyed a day with an expert from the company, KFE, who built the main frying range. "It really showed us what we could do with the main equipment and allowed us to explore more menu options," explains Tom.
The main menu also has the new addition of a "big massive mega burger." Tom continues: "We call it the Sia Mega Burger. We're also bringing in a hot and spicy chicken chilli burger to expand what we have on offer."
The takeaway now boasts an impressive coffee machine, especially appreciated by the early birds. "We open at 7am for people who get up early for work and they love the espresso-based coffee in the morning," explains Tom. "We use beans from Skye Coffee Roasters and, although we provide filter coffee as well, they are by far the most popular."
The customer area, which previously sat six people, has now been expanded.
Issue 15 2020/202140
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Macleod’s Tables at sunset from Ullinish.Alexander Macaskill of Skyelight Photography
Aros…giving Skye the complete package Page 42
Eilean Bàn A Stepping Stone to the Isle of Skye Page 44
Readers’ photographs Page 46
Issue 15 2020/2021 41
All of this has not gone unrecognised. For the Isle of Skye Sea Salt Company has landed a number of prestigious industry-leading awards, including 2018’s Great Taste Award and a Scottish Speciality Food Fair Gold Award. These awards recognised the company’s products’ taste and quality, with a further award endorsing its environmental credentials. The Isle of Skye Sea Salt Company is one of the very few Scottish companies admitted into the International Slow Food Movement’s ‘Ark of Taste’.
A welcome by-product of winning the awards – in addition to the use of award logos on packaging –has been interest from TV companies. The Isle of Skye Sea Salt Company featured on TV chef James Martin’s Home Comforts series on BBC and in January this year, they were guests on the Susan Calman series, Secret Scotland on Channel 5.
The impact of such nationwide TV exposure has been a marketing coup for both the Isle of Skye Sea Salt Company and the island itself, the dramatic backdrop of Loch Snizort serving to underline the green and natural provenance of the sea salt.
With Skye being the special guest star, the TV features have further boosted the historic and authentic backstory upon which
the Isle of Skye Sea Salt Company is set. Comments Chris: “Skye is a global brand because of its rich history and the natural beauty and variety of the island and is the second most visited destination in Scotland after Edinburgh. It was an obvious step for us, then, to incorporate that brand for the business because we make a natural, eco-friendly product that resonates so well with Skye as a brand.”
And, as Nanette points out: “Isle of Skye Sea Salt Company can claim to be part of this heritage due to the fact that we are making sea salt on Skye for the first time in 300 years.”
Not ones to rest on their laurels, the company are continually looking to the future. At trade and food shows they always take soundings from customers as to what new sea salt products they would like to see introduced. A range of new products is now in the works, but Chris remains cagey for now. What he will say, however, is that these new products will maintain the class-leading quality and environmental credentials that have been well established by the business.
Meanwhile, they are also pressing ahead with production expansion plans to accommodate scaled up marketing of their products across the UK over the next two years.
Unsurprisingly, their two key lessons over the past nine years have been: ‘Keep to your principles and you will be able to achieve your goals and people will respect what you are trying to do,’ and ‘ It always takes longer than you think it will.’
Slow and steady, then, wins the race.
Continued from page 28
43
Finding a natural way to salty success
43
Island-goers who have visited the Isle of Skye via the Skye Bridge since its opening in 1995 will have briefly
visited Eilean Bàn (‘Blonde Island’ in Gaelic), but perhaps won’t have taken notice! Such an oversight can be forgiv-en when one considers the magnificent – and distracting – panoramic views to be had from this structure: southwards over Loch Alsh and the former ferry ports of Kyle of Lochalsh and Kyleakin; and northwards to the unmistakable profile of the Skye Cuillin and the distinctive flat-topped summit of Dùn Caan on the neighbouring island of Raasay.
Eilean Bàn is a six-acre island in Loch Alsh; a stepping stone linking the two sections of the Skye Bridge. Hundreds, if not thousands, of people pass through Eilean Bàn on a daily basis but very few take the time to get out of their vehicles and explore. In fact, access to the island isn’t as straightforward as simply parking up and strolling around. A tall stone wall lines both sides of the carriageway, broken by a formidable locked gate beneath a sign advertising the Gavin Maxwell Museum.
To access Eilean Bàn, a visit must be made to Kyleakin to purchase guided tour tickets at the Bright Water Visitor Centre, home of the Eilean Bàn Trust which manages the island. The centre boasts a number of interactive displays on the local history,
Kyleakin Lighthouse beneath the Skye Bridge
By Karen Thorburn
Eilean Bàn: A Stepping Stone to the Isle of Skye
flora and fauna, which certainly whets the appetite for a tour and is appealing to all ages.
Kyleakin was once the gateway to the Isle of Skye but, with the opening of the bridge nearly 25 years ago, its ferry slipway has fallen silent. Sadly, most visitors to Skye now bypass Kyleakin as they travel north to the tourist hotspots. A short detour from the main road is worthwhile, to savour the moment of having arrived on one of Scotland’s most celebrated islands and to soak up the view of the impressive Skye Bridge.
From Kyleakin, the ruins of the fifteenth century Castle Moil, the ancestral seat of the Clan MacKinnon, can also be explored. From the harbour, a trip can be taken aboard the glass bottom boat, Seaprobe Atlantis. The underwater panoramic views offer visitors the chance to spot marine life including crabs, sea urchins and starfish, and view the remains of the HMS Port Napier which was shipwrecked on Loch Alsh during the Second World War. Those out on deck are rewarded with a unique perspective on Eilean Bàn and the Skye Bridge.
Eilean Bàn wildlife hide
Issue 15 2020/202144 44
the north side of Eilean Bàn, past a viewing platform and through a small garden, to visit a quaint pentagonal wildlife hide. With its wooden walls and heather-thatched roof, the sheltered hide blends into its surroundings seamlessly. Designed by Ian Begg, this inconspicuous building was awarded first prize for design excellence by the Association for the Protection of Rural Scotland some 20 years ago, in 2000.
It would be easy to think that Eilean Bàn could be ticked off one’s list of islands after a short tour of the main sights. However, a recently published memoir by Dan Boothby serves as a reminder that it can take years of quiet observation throughout the seasons to truly come to know a place. ‘Island of Dreams’, published in 2015, serves as a tribute to this isle and the work of the Eilean Bàn Trust, and is a celebration of the local community, from Maxwell’s time to the present day. The engaging narrative will no doubt inspire island enthusiasts to pause on their next crossing of the Skye Bridge, and also encourage nature lovers to reacquaint themselves with the ‘Ring of Bright Water’ trilogy.
This article was first published in the May-July 2020 edition of the Scottish Islands Explorer Magazine.
All photographs taken by the author, Karen Thorburn –
www.karenthorburn.com
What Eilean Bàn lacks in size, it makes up for in character and points of interest. A love for islands often goes hand-in-hand with an affinity for lighthouses. The modest 21-metre-high Kyleakin Lighthouse, built in 1857 on a promontory on the south west side of the isle, was designed by Thomas and David Stevenson, father and uncle to renowned author Robert Louis Stevenson. Automation occurred in 1960 and the light was later decommissioned in 1993, with red and green buoys now marking the way for mariners on Loch Alsh. The tower remains a landmark for daytime navigation and, consequently, good condition is maintained.
With the departure of the keepers, the Northern Lighthouse Board put the cottages up for sale. Three years later, they were purchased by Eilean Bàn’s most famous former resident, Gavin Maxwell, best known for his wildlife books, in particular ‘Ring of Bright Water’, which has sold over a million copies worldwide since its publication in 1960. Maxwell settled on the island in 1968 after his home, Camusfeàrna (at Sandaig, between Glenelg and Arnisdale), was destroyed by fire.
The dividing wall between the lounges of the former lightkeepers’ cottages was removed during Maxwell’s residency to create a 12-metre space – ‘The Long Room’ – which now comprises a reconstruction of the author and
naturalist’s living space. It contains an impressive array of artefacts and overlooks the sea loch to Kyleakin. The collection was put together by actress Virginia McKenna, who starred alongside Bill Travers in the 1969 feature film adaptation of ‘Ring of Bright Water’.
The other rooms of the former keepers’ cottages are available to rent as holiday accommodation, providing guests with a unique opportunity to spend more time exploring this charming island and farther afield in Skye and Lochalsh. Despite the busy trunk road overhead, it is possible to ‘tune out’ any traffic noise and relish in the peace and tranquillity of this nature haven.
A stone’s throw from the cottages lies a memorial to Teko, one of the otters immortalised in Maxwell’s best-selling book. The island is an ideal location for otter spotting, although these private creatures have a habit of making an appearance after the visitors have departed with their cameras and binoculars! The island and the surrounding seas support a range of wildlife in addition to otter, including pine marten, water vole, porpoise, and grey and common seal. Island-goers can also expect to see eider duck, kittiwake, and rock and meadow pipit, in addition to such flora as sea pink and tormentil.
Following an ascent of the lighthouse, which offers a different perspective on the Skye Bridge overhead, visitors are led to
View from the lightkeepers’ cottages to Kyleakin
Issue 15 2020/2021 45
Neist Point at sunsetby Alexander Macaskill of
Skyelight Photography
Issue 15 2020/202146
And now it’s your turn! We want to see your - the readers’ - photographs of the isles of Skye and Raasay. We want to see wee spots that maybe we’ve never seen before; beautiful effects of light or dark; charismatic creatures; whatever captures Skye and Raasay for you, let us all see it. During the year, these can be published on The Skye Magazine Facebook page…and then next year, maybe the magazine beckons for your unique photograph! Please email to [email protected]
The harbour at Portree
The harbour at Uig
Storm clouds over Torrin.
Issue 15 2020/2021 47
Hotel & RestauRant
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Hotel & RestauRant
Tel: 01471 820 200 to [email protected] House Hotel | SleatIsle Of Skye | IV44 8RE
Hotel & RestauRant
Tel: 01471 833202 to [email protected] House Hotel | SleatIsle of Skye | IV43 8QW
tHe sonas ColleCtion
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