Operational modeling of waves and currents at beach and harbor
scales The CariCOOS TEAM
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Overview Rincon buoy update Review of our main goals as
promised at the 2012 General Assembly in Parguera Model
description: Operational mode: SWAN In development: ROMS Plans for
the future 2
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Rincon buoy update On Friday March 8 at 3 PM the Rincon buoy
mooring broke, apparently from a boat strike CDIP personnel called
with the news at 4:15 PM By 5 PM we had a jetski on the water By 7
PM buoy was on shore Rubber bungee cord shows sign of being snapped
under stress, not cut Ironically, this happened on the eve of the
largest swell of the year 3
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Advancing CariCOOS: Providing data from large scales to small
scales to aid your day to day operations In FY 2011-2016, focused
on developing core assets, tools and products required by shore
dependent sectors, particularly: Very high resolution wave models
& observations Very high-resolution coastal circulation
modeling Very high-resolution coastal wind modeling &
observations Rapid bathymetric surveying and seabed mapping
capabilities Water quality products Examples of Specific
Applications SAR Operations & Safe navigation Beach safety Oil
spill and pollutant modeling Recreational sector Support for SAR
Ops High-res currents High-res winds High-res waves Rapid surveying
Commercial fishing High-res currents High-res winds High-res waves
Examples of the dependence of specific sectors on CariCOOS core
assets
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The CariCOOS Swan Multigrid Nearshore Wave Model
http://www.caricoos.org/drupal/swan_multigrid
http://www.caricoos.org/drupal/swan_multigrid 5
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SWAN Point forecasts 9
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SWAN Point forecast for SJ Bay 10 RIGHT NOW San Juan Buoy
reading @ 9 AM: Hs = 8.9 ft
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Are our predictions any good? SWAN Model Validation: Rincon
& SJ 11
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12 Are our predictions any good? SWAN Model Validation: PONCE
& USVI
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Example applications of operational nearshore wave modeling
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Application #1: Waves & erosion from Hurricane Sandy
Extreme WNW swell angle Significant coastal flooding & erosion
CariCOOS performed before and after bathymetric surveys 14
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Morphological Response: Hurricane Sandy After Sandy, offshore
sand migration was observed in both beach profiles. For further
details please see Patricia Chardons poster
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Hydrodynamic Conditions Fence Hurricane Sandy Peak Conditions
Survey Before Hurricane Survey After Hurricane CariCOOS Swan Wave
Model plots from Sandys event: (1) October 26, 2012, (2) October
29,2012 (1) (2)
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17 Example of possible threshold for Jobos Above: Nearshore
prediction for Jobos Beach from the CNWM. Left: Early version of
the warning system. Application #2: Development of the PR Beach and
Surfzone Currents Warning System *Please see our poster for further
details
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High-resolution coastal circulation modeling 18
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19 Under development: operational coastal circulation modeling
at beach and harbor scales Effort led by Dr. Stefano Leonardi Sea
state variables used to generate initial and boundary conditions
are taken from the AmSeas NCOM model. The AmSeas model has a 3km
resolution with 40 vertical levels. The model assimilates SST,
altimetry (SSH) as well as profile temperature and salinity into a
1/8 degree global NCOM model. K-profile turbulent profile for
vertical parameterization. Open lateral boundary conditions.
Flather condition: Barotropic variables (2D). Orlansky condition:
Baroclinic variables (3D). Forcing: Tides Winds Rivers 3D
baroclinic structure from AMSEAS
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Under development: Operational coastal circulation modeling in
San Juan Bay Please see Edgardo Garcia & Stefano Leonardis
poster for more details 20
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Under development: Operational Coastal circulation modeling in
San Juan Bay Please see Edgardo Garcia & Stefano Leonardis
poster for more details 21
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22 Under development: operational coastal circulation modeling
in USVI: Port of Charlotte Amalie Please see Miguel Solano &
Stefano Leonardis poster for more details
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23 Under development: operational coastal circulation modeling
in USVI: Port of Charlotte Amalie
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Conclusions & Future Plans We have successfully developed
an operational wave model (99.1% up-time) which resolves wave
transformation at beach and harbor scales Validation of SWAN shows
significant improvement over previous versions of SWAN as well as
NWW3 forecasts (for further details please visit our poster) Future
plans A very high-resolution coastal circulation model will be
validated and fully operational by the 2014 General Assembly
Nearshore product integration into GIS web service Implementation
of CariCOOS-WRF wind model forcing (please see Dr. Luis Apontes
poster) into SWAN to improve prediction of the daily wind wave
signal 24
