Vietnam

66 escape!

Old School Charm

words and photographs DaVe Lemke

Home to a number of lakes and on the banks of the immense Red River, Hanoi’s beauty is unrivaled throughout Vietnam

CITY REPORTER

Vietnam’s romantic capital city is undergoing rapid change. Only 10 years ago, bicycles ruled the landscape, whereas today, one can see Bentleys

and Rolls Royces’ amongst the clogged motorways and side streets of downtown. Yet there is an enduring charm that pervades the city. Perhaps it is the tree-lined boulevards, numerous cafes and French Colonial past that allows locals to retain a nostalgic atmosphere.

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Hanoi SociaL cLub Set in a renovated 1926 Victorian villa, HSC is like a hipster bistro straight out of Soho. The place is a perfect air-conditioned retreat while walking the hectic Old Quarter streets. Wholesome Pan-European soul food is on menu, ideal for breakfast lunch or dinner. Sketched and paintings from local artisans adorns the walls and a garden bar is on the top floor. 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem Dist. Tel: + 84 4 3938 2117

cong capHe (cafe) Cong Caphe is a staple in Hanoi’s saturated café market. Artists, architects and designers are frequent visitors, infusing Cong with creative energy. Menus are hand written onto copies of Lenin’s musings and satirical political photos and art decorate the walls. Old wooden trestles and dark oak patterns hark back to another time and another place. It is easy to sit in Cong for hours, especially at the new Dien Bien Phu location, where there is outdoor seating overlooking a large busy intersection. Try the coconut coffee (caphe sua dua) or the yogurt with fermented sticky rice (sua chua nep cam), both are incredible.152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Dist and 32b Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh Dist; www.congcaphe.com

La baDiane La Badiane is a superior French restaurant and bakery where price and quality meet on a level plain. The food is not inexpensive, but it is some of the best French cuisine one can savour in the capital. 10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem Dist. Tel: +84 4 3942 4509; www.labadiane-hanoi.com

21nortH Set on a quiet street on one of the banks of West Lake, this arty/cool joint is as far away from the hustle of the city as you can get. A favourite with expats and locals, it so far has not appeared on the tourist blip. Any drink you want, they can make and it’s a great place to watch the sunset. Live world music Fridays and DJ’s on Saturdays.49 Lang Yen Phu, Tay Ho Dist. Tel: +84 9 4670 8286; www.21northhanoi.com

HigHway 4 This establishment started life as a rice liquor operation run by a Brit and a Swiss, and both have a love of Northern Vietnam. Their rice liquor (plum, rose apple, apricot) is now winning awards across the world at the highest levels of spirit competition. Ever fancy grilled ostrich with a mustard sauce? Locusts roasted with lemon leaves? The fare does contain the exotic, but there are plenty of other dishes to suit all palates. The must try dish here though it the catfish spring rolls served with wasabi mayo and dill. Five locations in Hanoi. Top three are: 5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem Dist (+84 4 3926 4200), 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem Dist (+84 4 3926 0639) and 31 Xuan Dieu, Ho Tay Dist (+84 4 3718 6377); www.highway4.com

1. HSC is housed in a Victorian villa

2. Cong Caphe’s warm interior encourages long stays at the cafe

3. Visit 21North before it inevitably becomes the next tourist hotspot 4. Highway 4’s menu is a ‘da re - l i s t ’ fo r the adventurous

EATNorthern Vietnamese like to think that Hanoi is the country’s food capital, and by and large this is true. Although each region has its own distinct gastronomic characteristics, in Hanoi, you can savour delicacies from all over Vietnam. Combine this with the many bistros, French bakeries, fusion restaurants and international fare and every time you get hungry you shall be spoiled for choice.

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1. Visit the mausoleum early to avoid the long queues

2. The Opera House is a living relic from the early 20th century

3. Long Bien was designed by the man responsible for the Eiffel Tower

Ho cHi minH mauSoLeum Like going to take a look at Lenin, one can also go see ‘Uncle Ho’ (Ho Chi Minh, Vietnamese’s President during the wars against the French and USA) at his mausoleum. The grounds of the mausoleum are grand, with wide stretches of green grass and walkways. The One-Pillar pagoda is also worth seeing while there. During visiting hours, a long queue is almost guaranteed, so arrive early. Dien Bien, Ba Dinh Dist. Tel: +84 4 3828 9465. Open: 8am-11am Tue-Thu, 8am-11am Sat-Sun. Dec-Sept. Closed Mon and Fri.

Long bien briDge First designed by Eiffel and built in 1903, it was, at the time, the longest bridge in Asia. During the American-Vietnamese war, it was heavily bombed and became a symbol for Vietnamese strength and endurance. Today only motorbikes, bicycles and pedestrians

are allowed to cross. One can also, from the East side of the bridge, take a staircase down to the island in the middle of Red River. There are numerous walking paths amongst farmer’s fields and, although quirky, is a fun experience nonetheless. First bridge off of Yen Phu St, Hoan Kiem Dist

Hoan kiem Lake Hoan Kiem is the spiritual heart of Hanoi. At almost all hours of the day, hundreds of people are walking along its banks – from elderly folk having friendly chats, to teenagers snuggling under leafy branches. There is usually a pleasant breeze coming off the Lake so it makes a worthwhile escape from the humidity and mugginess on the claustrophobic Old Quarter streets.

opera HouSe A landmark building close to the Sofitel Metropole, Hanoi’s Opera House was built between 1902-1911 and modelled on the famous Opéra Garnier de Paris. Shows by the national ballet and symphony orchestra are generally inexpensive, but buy your tickets early to avoid disappointment. As a cultural and social focal point, attending a show at the Opera House is a must while you are in the city.1 Trang Tien - Hoan Kiem Dist. Tel: +84 4 9330 113

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ATTRACTIONS The main thing one immediately understands about Hanoi is that there is a lot of history tied to this place. The city celebrated its millennium in 2010, so there is much to see and do in place that has been around more than 1,000 years. Most attractions are within walking distance, but when temperatures soar in summer months, its best to beat the heat and take a taxi.

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SHOPPINGEvery street in the Old Quarter has its own goods to sell, from power tools, used iPhones, paintings, propaganda posters to chic clothing stores. Although there are malls that offer brand names and convenient shopping, the real deals are on the roadside.

Vincom SHopping maLL Hanoi does not have a lot of malls, and Vincom is the largest in the downtown area. Boasting five levels of brand names, a grocery store and large top floor food court, Vincom is the best place to find authentic clothing, shoes and electronics under the same air-conditioned roof. There is also a megastar cinema on the upper levels of the building, if you want to take in one of Hollywood’s’ latest releases.191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Dist. Tel: +84 4 3974 9999

Hanoi oLD Quarter As the saying goes, if you are looking for something to buy, chances are you will find it on one of the Old Quarter’s 36 streets. However, with motorbikes, cars, buses, cyclos, bikes and pedestrians all jostling for room to move, the experience can be harrowing. Each block seems to cater to different interests and you can find some cool

souvenirs to bring back home. Hang quat has a number of musical instrument stores, Hang Bac has art houses, Lan Ong is spice street, on Hang Giay you can find freshly roasted coffees and all along Ly Nam De there are computer shops.Hang Quat, Hang Bac, Hang Be, Lan Ong, Hang Giay, Ly Nam De

magonn There must be 1,000 boutique fashion stores in Hanoi, and it is hard to discover one that stands out above the rest or suits your personal style. Magonn is a good place to begin though. This female fashion boutique features a variety of pieces that are retro styled with a touch of flair. Their designs are elegant and wholly practical. Also with four locations in Hanoi, it makes finding one of their stores far less troublesome.9 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Dist. Tel: +84 4 3938 2003

tan my DeSign SHowroom Celebrated Hanoian designer Ha Truong has a range of clothing on the 3rd floor at Tan My Design. Ha creates outfits for both men and women, and her designs are empathically simple and classy. Tan My Design is a melting pot for all top designers, artists and fashionistas. You can find high-end jewellery, art, photography, clothing, antiques and exclusive t-shirt designs here. Having so much quality products under one roof comes at a price, so be sure to bring your wallet.61 Hang Gai St. Hoan Kiem Dist. +84 4 3938 1154; www.tanmydesign.com

1+4. The Old Quarter is a treasure trove of rare finds 2+3. Tan My Design sells pricy but unique pieces of clothes, art, jewelry and antiques

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1. The Metropole is an iconic piece of Hanoi’s history

2. Hip and happening Taboo is located in an archored boat

There is a huge range of accommodation available in Hanoi, from backpacker hostels, charming boutique hotels to the branded names like Sofitel, Novotel and Marriott.

HOTELS & NIGHT LIFE

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ZepHyr HoteL There are many boutique hotels in Hanoi, but few as opulent as the Zephyr. It has just 44 rooms and Suites, but is situated a stone’s throw from Hoan Kiem lake. The hotel boasts a gym, café and white tablecloth dining in their upscale restaurant.4-6 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Dist. Tel: +84 4 3934 1256; www.zephyrhotel.com.vn

intercontinentaL The 359-room InterContinental is beautifully located overlooking Hanoi’s serene West Lake. Only minutes from the city centre, many choose to stay here due to the area’s tranquility and elegance. Walking distance to Xuan Dieu street, many pubs and upscale bistro’s and restaurants are nearby. 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Dist. Tel: +84 4 6270 8888; www.ihg.com/intercontinental

SofiteL metropoLe There is no question that the Metropole Hanoi is the most iconic hotel in the city. Built in 1901, the Metropole’s classic white façade and French colonial styling make it one of the few remaining historical hotels in Hanoi. There are numerous ballrooms, bars, restaurants and shops to keep guests busy and the poolside bistro offers fantastic fusion dishes. Without a doubt this is the highest form of luxury one can get in the city. 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Dist. Tel: +84 4 3826 6919; www.sofitel-legend.com/hanoi

puLLman Hanoi Recently brought into the Pullman group, this is a favorite destination with business travellers. Located on an old brickworks factory, The Pullman Hanoi is situated halfway between the city’s Old Quarter and business sector and brings all the comfort one can expect of a 4-star establishment. The outdoor pool overlooks a busy intersection and is an excellent vantage point to have a drink and watch the organised chaos below. 40 Cat Linh, Dong Da Dist. Tel: +84 4 3733 0808/4 3733 2438; www.pullmanhotels.com

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tHe bank This newly opened club marks a new step in the nightclub scene in Hanoi. It is 1,000 sqm, has two rooms, one huge terrace and pumping beats all night long. The Bank would not look out of place in New York or LA. From the terrace one can get superb views of the city.41 Hai Ba Trung - 6th Floor Capital Building, Hoan Kiem. Tel: +84 9 4490 3232

taboo Taboo’s claim to fame is that is in a three deck anchored boat on West Lake. The dance floor is often packed and because the second floor is just seating and railing along the wall, the club has a wonderful open-air vibe to it. This also means it’s well ventilated and you are less prone to coming home smelling like a smokestack. 4 Thuy Khue Street, Tay Ho Dist. Tel: +84 4 3728 2996

funky buDDHa Funky B is a small and quaint trance bar with ultra-posh interior design. There is no dance floor, but a crowd often gets one going anyway to the chagrin of the servers. 2 Ta Hien Street, Hoan Kiem Dist. Tel: +84 4 3292 7614

nigHt Life

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rooftop bar anD Lounge As its name implies, Rooftop is on the 19th floor of a multi-use building. Its views of the city cannot be beat and the club often has vodka and gin featured nights with live performances of top Vietnamese pop stars. There is ample seating and standing room, as well as a luxurious dining area.19th Fl Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet , Hoan Kiem Dist. Tel: +84 4 3946 1901

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FACT BOX - Hanoi

GettinG there

SilkAir and Singapore Airlines fly direct from Singapore to Hanoi. From Kuala Lumpur, fly direct on AirAsia and Malaysia Airlines.

Van Mieu (Temple of Literature) is Vietnam’s oldest University, being over 1,000 years old. It was originally built to honour and teach Confucian ideals and potential mandarins came here for their exams. Although located along two busy streets, the atmosphere inside is tranquil. The history is tactile and it is easy to spend time sitting on a bench under one of the ancient trees taking in the peaceful environment.

CUrrenCY

10,000VND = S$0.60/

RM1.43

tiMe ZOne

GMT +3

CallinG COdeThe country code for Vietnam is 84 and the city code for Hanoi is 4.

lanGUaGe

Vietnamese is the most commonly spoken language among the locals but many do understand basic English terms.

ViSaSingaporeans and Malaysians do not require a visa to enter Vietnam.

CliMate

The weather from April to October is hot and humid, but cools to a comfortable level from November to March.

temperature

Highest

LowestJan20°Jan

14°Jan20°feb

15°Jan28°apr

22°Jan33°Jun

26°Jan32°aug

26°Jan29°oct

22°Jan23°mar

18°Jan32°may

25°Jan33°JuL

26°Jan31°Sep

25°Jan25°noV

19°Jan22°Dec

16°

temple of Literature

GettinG arOUndTaxis are the most convenient way of getting around the city. Flag down rates are about S$0.60. It is also possible to rent a motorcycle if you are adventurous enough to brave the infamous Hanoi traffic.

Say ‘mac qua’ (mahk kwa) if you are haggling for a lower price.