Grangetto’s NewsletterJune Outline

Send June 2nd

1. Kevin’s Korner

Beneficial Insects

With the focus on roses this time of year, an important beneficial insect to get to know is the ladybug or, more properly, "lady beetle." We'll talk about two here: the vedalia beetle (Rodolia cardinalis) and the convergent lady beetle (Hippodamia convergens). Vedalia lady beetles eat aphids, scales, and other soft bodied insects. Most people are familiar with the adult, which is round, red with black spots, and about 1/4 inch long. This beetle was brought to the US from Australia in 1888 and saved the citrus industry in California by controlling cottony cushion scale. It is well-established in Florida now, as well. In addition to scale, the adult and larva have an appetite for aphids--a common rose pest. The larvae look like little dragons or alligators. Their long narrow bodies--about 1/3 inch long--are reddish-gray.Convergent lady beetles are a native species and far more common. These are the ones most Americans think of when the word "ladybug" is used. They, and their larvae, also have an appetite for aphids and other pests. The larvae are darker with brighter markingsThese ladies are easy to spot--look near the new growth at the tips of plants and on young buds. Watch for them in your own garden.

Don't spray them; they are our best helpers!Get to know your beneficial insects. They can be very useful in keeping the pests away and reducing the use of chemicals. And remember--when you do need to use chemicals in your garden, read the instructions carefully and consult with one of our nursery professionals, who can advise you on the best one to use for your particular problem.

Decollate Snails

Article here

Praymantis

Article here

2. Manager’s Corner

Grangetto’s Farm and Garden Supply BLOOD DRIVE

Thursday, July 7, 2011 from 8am – 1pm

Post Office Parking Lot1157 West Mission Avenue

Escondido 92025

To make an appointment online, go to www.sandiegobloodbank.orgClick on “Donate Blood” and “Bloodmobiles”

Enter sponsor code: GFGS

Please contact Dominique Lehmer at (760) 736-6555 for more information

15% off discount off entire purchase at Grangetto’s Farm and Garden Supply for successful donation,“some exclusions apply”

View the Brochure Here

June Workshops

Irrigation for Your Edible Landscape & Spring Veggies- Saturday, June 4th

Speaker: Richard Wright of Edible EdenWhen: Saturday, June 4th at 10am - 12pmWhere: Grangetto's Encinitas

Join Grangetto's and speaker Richard Wright for this engaging workshop "Irrigation for Your Edible Landscape." Richard will give you the WHO, WHAT, WHEN, WHERE & HOW of Irrigation for ALL your Edible Landscaping. He will aslo discuss plants to grow now and how to care for them.

Richard has 30 years experience in the landscape industry. He specializes in edible landscapes and design.

This workshop is FREE. Just show up and enjoy. Snacks and refreshments will be served

Any & All Things Edible in Your Landscape - Satruday, June 11th

Speaker: Richard Wright of Edible EdenWhen: Saturday, June 11th at 10am - 12pmWhere: Grangetto's Valley Center

Join speaker Richard Wright in this engaging seminar to teach you how to create wonderful edible gardens in your personal outdoor space. Even small, creatively planned spaces can give an abundance of fantastic food and fun!

Richard has 30 years experience in the landscape industry. He specializes in edible landscapes and design.

This workshop is FREE. Just show up and enjoy. Snacks and refreshments will be served

Summer Fruit Tree Pruning

Speaker: Richard Wright of Edible EdenTime: 10am - 12pmWhere & When:

Saturday, June 25th - Grangetto's Fallbrook Saturday, July 9th - Grangetto's Escondido

Join speaker Richard Wright in this engaging workshop designed to help you prune your fruit trees to maximize your production.

Richard has 30 years experience in the landscape industry. He specializes in edible landscapes and design.

This workshop is FREE. Just show up and enjoy. Snacks and refreshments will be served

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3. Upcoming Workshops

Link to: http://www.grangettos.com/Mainpages/workshops.html

4. Garden Specials (leave link to specials)

5. Preferred Member Specials

Link to: http://www.grangettos.com/assets/variable_content/PreferredSpecials.pdf

6. Garden Tips

June Gardening Tips

May & June are very similar in respects to gardening. If you didn’t do it in May, you can do it in June

PLANTING June is a great month for planting new trees & shrubs. Use Sunshine Planting Mix when planting

in the ground and Gardner and Bloome Potting soil for pots and raised beds. Use DeWitt 12-year Weed Barrier Landscape Fabric to prevent weeds from coming up in your garden beds.

Subtropicals abound. Now is an excellent time to plant hibiscus, gardenia, palms, tibouchina (princess flower), and/or bougainvillea, shrub or vine.

Time to plant dahlias, begonias--and get in the gladiolus bulbs. Add some Dr. Earth® Bone Meal to the planting hole for great root development and beautiful blooms!

Plant a giant pumpkin now with your kids, grandkids, nieces and nephews. They’ll have so much fun being involved in planting their pumpkin for Halloween.

Continue to transplant potted bulbs into the ground.

Continue to tuck in or fill out your garden beds with all the wonderful annual and perennial color. Celosia, dahlia, marigold, petunia, portulaca, salvia, scabiosa, verbena, zinnia, rudbeckia, gloriosa daisy, heliotrope, coreopsis, delphinium, digitalis--the list goes on and on!

Plant warm-season lawns. Try Tigreen Hybrid Bermuda or St Augustine. Both are some of the most rugged and drought tolerant varieties.

Continue to plant vegetables and herbs – There’s still time to plant warm-season crops like tomatoes, squash, peppers, sweet potatoes, cucumbers, melons, okra and corn. Also plant basil, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary and thyme and other heat-lovers. Consider using Superthrive® for healthier, fast growing plants. Superthrive® is excellent for reducing transplant shock and reviving stressed plants.

Purchase, plant, and transplant succulents.

Plant petunias. Pinch them back when you plant them.

Continue to plant California Natives. The best time to plant California Natives varies by region. For more information on best planting times for your area, visit Las Pilitas Nursery

FEEDING AND MAINTENANCE

Lawns

If you didn’t do so last month, fertilize both cool season (fescue) and warm season (bermuda & St. Augustine) lawns using Best Turf Supreme 16-6-8 or Best Super Turf 25-5-5 (lasts for up to 12 weeks!). Lawns should be fertilized every 4-6 weeks. Use Dr. Earth Super Natural Lawn Fertilizer for an organic food. For convenience in small areas use Scotts® Handy Green II Hand-Held spreader. For larger areas use a Broadcast Spreader.

Control and kill lawn insects so they don’t invade your house with Spectracide Triazicide Once & Done.

Mow cool season lawns long and warm season lawns short.

Plants, Trees & Shrubs Beneficial insects such as the almost decollate snails, praymantis, ladybugs, etc. keep other insect

pests away from your vegetable gardens by eating aphids, scale, and other annoying intruders. You can use beautiful flowers to tempt these garden friends into your garden. Try putting some of these flowers near to your rose garden for aphid control!

Now is a good time to fertilize your flowers, roses, vegetables, trees and shrubs. Use Gro Power Plus 5-3-1. Gro Power builds healthy soil by adding beneficial humic acids to the soil. For organic gardening use Gardner and Bloome Organic Fertilizers. This line of organic fertilizers has specific ingredients tailored to improve your plants nutrient needs, for more bountiful blooms and harvest.

Check citrus for pests and diseases. Irrigate as needed to maintain adequate soil moisture. Apply enough water to wet the soil at least two feet deep. Only apply water about 3 inches deep in loam soil.

Continue to feed avocado and citrus trees. Use a good all around fertilizer such as Dr. Earth or Gardner & Bloome Organic Citrus and Avocado food or contact us to learn of other conventional and organic fertilizers that will fit your growing needs best!

Wash fruit trees periodically with a forceful spray of water to remove dust, honeydew and pests like aphids, whiteflies and spider mites. Control ants. Use tanglefoot or AntPro Liquid Bait and Bait Stations.

Begonias - Check tuberous begonias to repot or add fresh soil. Stake if needed. Wash insects off with water. Pinch back once or twice and fertilize for more blooms and bushier canes.

Fushsias – Feed with Gardner & Bloome Rose & Flower Food. Remove berries (seed pods) from fuchsias after flowers fall.

Wait until July to feed your camellias and azaleas. A good schedule of feeding is three times a year. March should have been your first feeding. You gave them more food in May and you will again in July. Use Gardner & Bloome® Camellia and Azalea Food. Watch for aphids and hose them off with a spray of water. Keep well watered, but not soggy. Prune unwanted new growth.

Herbs and Vegetables. There always time to prep and start your garden beds in Sunny Southern California! Remove old soil and weeds. Amend with Kellogg® Amend Garden Mix. This garden mix has a starter fertilizer in it already. Now you are ready to plant your warm season veggies & herbs. For established beds, side-dress vegetable rows with a good organic fertilizer such as Gardner & Bloome Tomato and Herb Fertilizer. Fertilize peppers when flowers first show. Continue to tie up and sucker tomatoes. Sturdy Cage Tomato cages are available. Harvest vegetables when they’re young and tender.

Once a tomato plant starts flowering, it needs a higher ratio of potassium. Use Gardner & Bloome Tomato and Herb Food – its Organic!

Feed all container-grown succulents with a well-diluted complete liquid fertilizer such as Shultz 10-15-10 Plant Food. Water well. Make sure drainage is good in all container plants.

Thin out fruit on deciduous fruit trees.

Dahlias - Feed dahlias with a balanced nitrogen fertilizer. Spray as necessary to control insects. Watch for leaf miners, thrips and aphids. Try using a systemic. If spraying, use a weak solution on new foliage. Water when top of soil is dry. Soak deeply and often when buds are forming. Pinch out center of plants when two or three sets of leaves have developed. Plant tubers now when soil is warm. Tubers should be planted four to six inches down and planted with “eye” up. Stake at this time. Keep moist but not too wet. Protect from harsh sun. Protect from snails and slugs.

Pelargoniums – avoid pruning or cutting. Remove dead or damaged leaves to prevent molds and fungus. Watch for geranium rust. Use Immunox to treat. Immunox is a non-sulfur based product. Keep the soil moist and the foliage dry. Apply a good commercial fertilizer at two-week intervals. Use one-third to one-half recommended strength. Protect against whitefly, budworm & aphids. Use a product that contains both an insecticide and fungicide.

Roses - Continue to pick and deadhead roses, but stop disbudding them now. Deadheading fading flower blossoms will keep your garden neater and flowering better & longer. Water well as heat increases. Roses need one inch of water twice a week during the warm season. Potted roses need even more. Spray wash the bushes with water daily in the early morning to control powdery mildew or spray with a fungicide according the label directions. Feed roses based on the recommended schedule for your chosen fertilizer. Some good options are Gardner & Bloome Rose & Flower Food, Dr. Earth Rose & Flower Food, Gro Power Flower N’ Bloom or Bayer Advanced Rose Foods.

Iris – Prepare beds for planting. Work in humus, soil sulfur & decomposed manure. Allow cut surfaces of rhizomes to dry and be exposed to sunlight before planting or give a light dusting of soil sulfur.

Bromeliads – Water throughout the summer by spraying. Bromeliads absorb moisture and nutrients through their leaves. They do not like soggy roots so don’t over-water. Be sure to protect from sun. Use shade-cloth for protection if needed.

Divide and repot cymbidiums that have outgrown their containers. Cut off bloom spikes from cymbidiums after flowers fade.

Plumeria: Move your potted plumeria plants to warm sun. If you did not fertilize last month, do so now with a low nitrogen fertilizer. Repot plants to replace old soil with a fresh mix. Use one-half cactus mix such as Kellogg Palm & Cactus Mix and one-fourth #3 perlite and one-fourth Worm Gold. Keep soil at the same level as before.

Ferns - Divide and mount staghorn ferns. Remove old dead fronds. Keep humidity up. Most ferns are starting full growth now. Water frequently and fertilize with half-strength, slow release fertilizer such as Gardner & Bloome Organic Palm & Tropical.

Many have asked us what is causing yellowing in the leaves of their citrus, camellias, and gardenias. Iron deficiency. Do the leaves near the top of the plant have green veins but yellow in between the veins? Time for either a foliar spray or a soil drench such as Grow More Iron Chelate or Ironite. This will help return those leaves to green!

Most native plants can go three to four weeks between watering, but Riparian natives need to be watered once or twice a week. Wash the dust off shrubs and trees once a month. Keep planting at a minimum until fall. Make sure to water 3 – 5 times for most new plantings. Then they can generally make it with infrequent, deep watering from now until later in the year.

If you haven't already, apply a layer of mulch on flower beds and around trees and shrubs 2-3 inches around the base of plants. It reduces weeds, conserves moisture, and prevents disease. Great stuff!

PEST TO WATCH FOR

Control indoor & outdoor pests –To control insects like spiders, fleas and ants, use Bayer Complete Insect Killer. It controls insects in lawns & around homes so they don’t come inside!

Animals - Warmer weather brings out animals such as skunks, raccoons and opossums. Trap them with Havahart Traps. We carry a large supply and they are very effective.

Squirrels – Use Havahart Traps, Protecta Bait Stations, Wilco Squirrel Bait and Station or Squirrelinator Multi-Trap.

Control mosquitoes –Use Mosquito Dunks in ponds or standing water to help control mosquitoes. Rabbits – protect your vegetables and herbs from foraging rabbits! Use Rabbit Scram Repellent to

keep rabbits away. This repellent is natural and organic and works as a barrier so it never has to touch your plants.

Snails & Slugs: Use Organic Gro Power® Slug N Snail, Organic Sluggo® Plus, Original Sluggo® or Corry’s® Snail & Slug Meal or Pellets.

Aphids: Control aphids with insecticidal soap and beneficial insects. Safer® Insect Killing soap is a good organic choice.

Thrips - Wash foliage with water from a garden hose. For stronger infestations use Bayer® Advanced Tree and shrub Insect Control. This is a systemic that gives 12 months of control.

Coddling moth larvae - Spray walnuts with Sevin when nuts are about the size of a nickel and again three weeks later to control coddling moth larvae.

Scale - Use Lilly Miller® Superior Type Spray Oil or Ortho® Volck Oil Spray to control crawlers.

Lawn pests: Use Bayer® Multi-Insect Killer or Spectracide® Triazicide

Vegetable Pests - Use Green Light Lawn & Garden Spray with Spinosad or Sevin Insect Killer Liquid or Sevin-5 Dust.

Juniper moths - Spray junipers and Italian cypress for juniper moths.

Rats & Mice: Use Hawk® All Weather Rodent Block.

Gophers: Use Wilco® Gopher Getter or Cooke Quick Action Gopher Mix to rid your yard of gophers. Use ZP® Bait in and around garden beds.

Caterpillars: Use Safer® Caterpillar Killer, Monterey® Garden Insect Spray or Green Light Lawn & Garden Spray with Spinosad. Look these pests on your broccoli and cabbage!

Rose Pests: Use Bayer® All-in-One Rose & Flower Care, Bayer® 3-in-1 Insect Disease and Mite Control or Green Light® Rose Defense.

Powdery Mildew: Especially near the coast, this is the time we begin to see powdery mildew on our rose foliage (and other plants too). There are several different foliar fungicidal sprays to that can help. Consider Bayer® Insect Disease and Mite Control or Ortho® Rose Pride are good conventional use products. Use Monterey E-Rase® for organic growing.

Powdery Mildew on Grapes: Apply a sulfur spray such as Safer® Garden Fungicide.

Fruit Tree Pests: Use Monterey® Garden Insect Spray to combat caterpillars and other listed pests on fruit trees, vegetables and ornamentals. It is OMRI listed for Organic Use too.

Lawn Weeds: To control weeds in lawns while giving them a good feeding use Lilly Miller® Ultra Green 28-2-3 Weed & Feed.

Weeds: Use Green Light® Crabgrass Preventer or Bayer® Season Long Weed Control in lawns. Use Green Light® Amaze in ornamentals & flower beds. For non-selective areas, use Roundup ®or QuickPro® products. Be sure to use a good sprayer such as Hudson® Sprayers.

Natural Weed Control: Looking for a natural way to prevent weeds? DeWitt® Weed Barrier Landscape Fabric prevents weeds without chemicals. It still allows air, water and nutrients to go through. Lay this fabric down before planting your gardens.

WATERING

Deep water entire garden to flush accumulated salts to prepare for summer heat. Re-adjust sprinkler settings, repair and add lines to use water more efficiently. Are you wasting water? Be sure to use a hose end sprayer equipped with a shut off valve. All Gilmour Hose End Accessories, Hoses and Sprayers are 15% off through June.

Reset your irrigation timer to water more frequently as the weather starts to warm up. Adjust as needed if we get adequate rain fall.

Water gardens –Check irrigation systems. Fix clogs and broken sprinklers. Adjust spray heads. Begin watering as weather warms. Apply a fresh layer of organic mulch to conserve moisture.

Apply at least one inch of water twice per week to keep roses well hydrated.

Established California Natives only need deep infrequent watering during this time of year. Always follow your specific plants label instructions.

As the weather becomes drier, keep up with watering. Even highly drought-tolerant plants need irrigation. Water large cacti, for example, once a month and agave and yuccas every three weeks. Be sure to water most garden plants regularly. Try using a Rain Wand for easy watering. Pair it with a Gilmour Flexogen Hose for maximum kink resistance.

Water lawns –Check irrigation systems. Fix clogs and broken sprinklers. Adjust spray heads. Begin watering if weather warms but only after soil has partially dried. Check with your local water department or cooperative extension service for lawn watering guidelines.

Now is a perfect time to start planning on how you are going to save water in your landscape, if you haven’t already. Installing or retrofitting an existing irrigation system to utilize the most up-to-date

technology will help you save water. Grangetto’s can help you make the SMART WATER CHOICE in your landscape. Call us or stop by your favorite location so we can help! Here are some water saving devices

o Did you know that you could SAVE up to 30% on Your WATER BILL? Consider replacing old irrigation systems with updated water efficient weather based systems from HUNTER® Irrigation, Rain Bird® Irrigation or Irritrol/Toro® Irrigation. Replace your old outdated nozzles with HUNTER® MP Rotators or Rain Bird® Rotating Nozzles.

Be sure to follow your local watering restrictions and guidelines

7. Garden Articles

Remove

ADD:

Plant of the Month –  Agave americana medio-picta alba

 

Pest of the Month: Getting’ Rid of Gophers

You might think gophers are cute and cuddly in cartoons, but they can be a real menace in gardens. Their holes and tunnels are sometimes confused with those of ground squirrels, but these furry creatures with strong digging claws and sharp teeth can cause a lot more damage to lawns and gardens than a squirrel.

Gophers will feed on many plants, both above and below the ground. They have particular fondness for vegetables, bulbs, and tender annual flowers. They also eat seeds, leaves, and tender stems, as well as invade lawns to eat grasses and dandelions. If really hungry, they may also feed on tree roots or gnaw bark from young trees in winter.The gopher's home is an extensive system of underground tunnels, which are excavated 4 to 18 inches below the ground. A series of these tunnels made by one gopher may extend several hundred feet and cover an acre of ground. Areas of gopher activity are marked on the surface by numerous mounds of excavated soil.Article PictureThe characteristic fan-shaped mounds, which may be 18 to 24 inches in diameter and about 6 inches high, are at the ends of short lateral tunnels branching off the main runway. The surface opening, through which soil is pushed from the tunnel, is finally plugged by soil pushed into it from below, leaving a small circular depression on one side of the mound. Generally, the entire lateral is then filled to the main tunnel.The placement of these mounds often gives a clue to the position of the main tunnel, which usually does not lie directly under any mound. One pocket gopher may make as many as 200 soil mounds per year. The most active mound building time is during the spring. And here's the really bad news--gophers do not hibernate.There are many home remedies to repel gophers, including planting gopher repellent plants or putting substances in gopher tunnels such as cat litter or rags soaked in pine oil. But they rarely produce the desired results.

But the most cost effective way to kill gophers quickly and in large numbers is with prepared poisoned bait, or the use of gopher traps. The baits usually contain grains such as corn, oat and wheat along with small pieces of fruit or dried vegetables. Simply drop the bait into the underground runways (beyond the hole) and then cover them with dirt to keep to keep out light and air. Make one application for every four to six fresh mounds. The same instructions apply for gopher traps.It's important to act quickly once you see signs of gopher activity, because once a tunnel system is in place, other gophers will quickly replace any you drive away.

Controlling Gopher Facts

I don’t know about you, but I have had lots of gophers tearing up my lawn. A friend of mine said the same thing. Are you experiencing gophers this year? Here is a bit of information from Chris Mizoguchi with Chris’s Ag Pest Control

What attracts Gophers to your yard?

Gophers eye sight is poor from being underground its entire life. It moves around by feeling vibration.

o Irrigation lines vibrate when water passes thru lines. Irrigation valves vibrate when in operation.

When weeds outside of landscaped areas die, gophers are attracted to your landscape from irrigation line vibrations.

Gophers are attracted to battery operated vibration devices.

With the focus on roses this time of year, an important beneficial insect to get to know is the ladybug or, more properly, "lady beetle." We'll talk about two here: the vedalia beetle (Rodolia cardinalis) and the convergent lady beetle (Hippodamia convergens). Vedalia lady beetles eat aphids, scales, and other soft bodied insects. Most people are familiar with the adult, which is round, red with black spots, and about 1/4 inch long. This beetle was brought to the US from Australia in 1888 and saved the citrus industry in California by controlling cottony cushion scale. It is well-established in Florida now, as well. In addition to scale, the adult and larva have an appetite for aphids--a common rose pest. The larvae look like little dragons or alligators. Their long narrow bodies--about 1/3 inch long--are reddish-gray.Convergent lady beetles are a native species and far more common. These are the ones most Americans think of when the word "ladybug" is used. They, and their larvae, also have an appetite for aphids and other pests. The larvae are darker with brighter markingsThese ladies are easy to spot--look near the new growth at the tips of plants and on young buds. Watch for them in your own garden. Don't spray them; they are our best helpers!Get to know your beneficial insects. They can be very useful in keeping the pests away and reducing the use of chemicals. And

remember--when you do need to use chemicals in your garden, read the instructions carefully and consult with one of our nursery professionals, who can advise you on the best one to use for your particular problem.

Gophers can be driven into your property by heavy equipment operating next to your property.

BAITING

Use strychnine containing baits such as WILCO GOPHER GETTER or COOKES GOPHER MIX for effective bait.

The amount of Strychnine needed depends on size of infestation.

Tools to use - metal probe 1/4inch to 3/8, small funnel, spoon or funnel, gloves (protect your hands handling strychnine).

o Use a probe to locate the gophers’ tunnel. Tunnels can be easily found in between dirt mounds. Find tunnels that are usually 6 to 12 inches deep. Place the funnel with probe into hole you have made. Put 1 teaspoon of strychnine into funnel to place into the gophers’ tunnel. Seal the hole with paper covered with dirt, or anyway you can without too much dirt falling onto bait. 1 placement for every 2 mounds.

TRAPPING

The Macabee trap is the most effective trap for gophers.

Tools to use - narrow digging spade, metal probe, Macabee traps, something to cover holes for traps, stake and string.

o Find gophers’ tunnel with probe using your spade or digging tool. Open up the tunnel without destroying its size or width. Make the opening big enough for you to place 2 Macabee traps in either tunnel direction; you don’t know what direction the gopher is tunneling from. Secure traps to a stake in case the gopher tries to take off with the trap still attached. Cover opening. USING THE TRAPS IN PAIRS IS THE ONLY WAY TO TRAP WITH SUCCESS.

BAIT TYPESWilco Gopher BaitCooke Gopher MixSure Stop Gopher KillerSweeney’sZP Rodent Bait

TRAP TYPESHavahart TrapsBlackhole Trap

BAIT APPLICATORS/OTHERLewis Lifetime Gropher ProbeEckroat Gopher ProbeGiant Destroyer Gopher Gasser

Gopher Blocks

More about Pocket Gophers from UC IPM Online http://www.gardenpartners.com/library/compost622.php Adjusting Your Water

We have had a particularly cool spring this year. With summer around the corner, the heat will become more intense and water becomes even more critical to you and your plants. Adjust your watering times to provide adequate water without wasting this precious resource.

If your lawn has a significant slope, look at the water flow pattern at least once a month. Adjust the clock on your automatic sprinkler system to make sure you don't water to the point of runoff. Water pouring down the gutter doesn’t do a thing to make your grass grow. Try watering for two shorter intervals an hour or two apart to get the needed water penetration. In addition, an application of Gypsite will help make the soil more porous and allow the water to penetrate much better.

Hanging Baskets

A flower garden, dangling like a colorful jeweled earring from the eave of your home. Yes, a hanging floral bouquet, the Hanging Basket--filled full to the brim with flowers and plants from the season, whether that is spring, summer or fall.

A design concept is important for you to consider when building your own hanging basket. You will need to choose a style or theme. For example, perhaps you want all of the same kinds of plants or flowers, such as all impatiens, all petunias, all verbenas or all trailing vinca. Some might choose to have a single color scheme, while others might choose complimentary colors or contrasting colors. A hanging basket with all flowers can be fun, or a mixed basket with flowers and foliage plants can be even more interesting.

A hanging basket makes a wonderful statement when it contains both upright and trailing plants. Make sure, however, that the plants that you choose for the upright feature will remain within the scale of the container that you have chosen. If you like a tall grass, such as Juncus, it is not a problem, but make sure that the container and your hanging mechanism will incorporate its ultimate height.

Did we mention containers? There are many choices of containers, too. Wire baskets lined with moss, wooden containers, plastic pots with built in hangers, clay or glazed pots hanging with woven ropes – your ultimate choice will depend on the look that you are creating. We have an excellent selection of containers for you to choose from.

Ok, you’ve decided upon your theme, have an idea of the plants that you want and have chosen the container. Excellent. Next you need to prepare your potting mix. Select a high quality potting mix such as Kellogg Gardner & Bloome Potting Soil and mix in a controlled-release fertilizer. Also, remember that moisture retention is frequently a problem with hanging baskets (and all containers for that matter), so mix in a soil polymer that will hold on to the moisture between watering.

If you have chosen to create a succulent hanging basket, you will need cactus mix and probably won’t need the slow-release fertilizer or the moisture polymer.

Planting is the next step. Fill your container about 2/3 to 3/4 full with the potting mixture. Carefully remove your new plants from their nursery containers and place them in the container. Don’t hesitate to move them around until you are thrilled with the arrangement. Keep in mind which ones are upright growers, and place them in the center. Trailing flowers/plants should be near the edge, of course.

Once the plants are arranged to your satisfaction, fill in between each plant with your potting mixture and water well. Remember that, even if you did use the moisture retention polymer, containers dry out far more quickly that plants in the ground. You will need to water several times a week or even more frequently in hot weather.

What’s next, you wonder? Watching your own creative design grow to maturity.

Of course, you can always buy hanging baskets which are pre-filled with beautiful floral arrangements.

Great Plants for Hanging Baskets:

SUN SHADE SUCCULENTS

GeraniumsCalibrachoaBacopaPetuniasSweet AlyssumLobeliaAgeratumPhloxColeusOsteospermum

Begonias, many kindsImpatiensNew Guinea impatiensLamiumLysimachia – ‘Goldilocks’Vinca majorVinca minorferns

AeoniumAloeCrassulaDudleyaEcheveriaHoyaKalanchoeSedumsSempervivim

Battling Black Spot

Battling Black Spot

By Tamara Galbraith

Ask rose enthusiasts what one plant disease they would vote off the face of the planet, and their answer will inevitably be Black Spot. It is the bane of the rose growing world, and has been for many years.

Thanks to the introduction of many new rose cultivars with built-in Black Spot resistance, this problem isn't what it used to be. But what if you are nursing a rose that isn't quite so sturdy?

As the name suggests, this fungal disease appears as circular black spots surrounded by a ring of yellow on infected leaves. Remove and destroy infected leaves and canes, and take these actions to prevent Black Spot from completely owning your rose:

1. First, don't irrigate late in the evening before water has a chance to evaporate from leaf surfaces. Better yet, water at ground level and don't wet the leaves at all. Also, make sure there is plenty of air flowing around and through each plant. Fungi love to grow in moist, stagnant air, so prune your roses periodically, especially after each bloom period.

2. If you do find yourself with a case of Black Spot, act quickly, as it can take over an entire rose bush in no time. A teaspoon of baking soda per quart of water is an effective fungus fighter. Some say milk works well. My personal preference is Neem oil, which boasts both insecticidal and fungicidal qualities, and won't harm beneficial insects.

Blossom End Rot

Blossom end rot happens not just with tomatoes, but also with peppers, squash and watermelons. There are a number of reasons for blossom end rot, all of which start because the plant has an inability to obtain calcium from the soil or the soil is deficient in calcium.

Blossom end rot is a sunken, dark area on the blossom end of the fruit, at the end opposite the stem. As the fruit develops, the rot area enlarges and can grow mold in the damaged area.

A number of factors can contribute to blossom end rot, in addition to calcium deficiency. These include irregular watering, soil mineral imbalance, root damage, broad temperature swings, or even high soil salt content. To compensate for some of these, deep water regularly instead of lightly watering daily; mulch to keep moisture in the soil; avoid high nitrogen foods that encourage foliage growth but not flower growth; avoid using fresh manure (once the plants are in the garden) because it is high in salt content.

But most important of all is the lack of calcium in the soil. To prevent blossom end rot, feed your vegetables regularly with a vegetable food high in calcium. On existing plants showing blossom end rot, spray the foliage and fruit with a calcium spray.

Border Babieso In this page, add links to all of theseo remove these setences from the following:

Middle and Marvelous Remove “We’ll look forward to seeing you and when we

do, ask us for suggestions for mid-level border plants for your kind of garden. We’ll be watching for your arrival — see you soon!

Tall and Sassy Remove - Whatever your garden design and whatever the

plant function that you desire, we have a large selection of "tall and sassy" plants available today. Come in and take a look!

Up Front and Lovin’ It Remove - “We'll see you soon in the garden center,

selecting your favorites.”

Border Babies-In the Middle and Marvelous Click HereBorder Babies-The Back-Tall and Sassy Click HereBorder Babies-Up Front and Lovin' It Click Here

Container Gardens: Trees & Shrubs

A tree or a shrub can create a delightful focal point in your patio garden design.

Many of our gardens have at least one specimen plant, usually a tree but sometimes a shrub. A specimen plant is one that is eye-catching, beautiful, often architectural in form, and can stand alone in a yard or garden. Such specimen plants do not only have to reside in the ground. You can bring one or more onto your patios, decks or balconies and create the same visual effect.

Many smaller scale patio trees are absolutely wonderful specimens, and they can remain perfectly happy living in a container. Ficus Benjamina, the Weeping Fig, is not the only tree that we can have on our patios! Even if you don't have a backyard, you can still have a tree on your patio.

Also, many people forget to consider shrubs for their containers. Many of our shrubs are just as happy and healthy in a container as in the ground. How simple it is to bring foliage and flower color into your patio gardens! Just pick your favorite shrub and design your patio garden around its color and form.

And you know what else is great? You can prune many shrubs into an open tree form, creating a beautiful specimen piece. Try this technique with a camellia or azalea. They are beautiful in an open graceful form, like an oriental painting.

Now, you may be tempted to plant flowers at the base of your tree. They will add color but their roots will compete with the root system space of your new tree or shrub. Instead try this — mulch using colored landscape glass, stones in your favorite colors and textures, or bark. You will be delighted with the impact, especially using colorful landscape glass or stones!

Of course, container selection is very important — it must be large enough for the plant's future root system growth. Potting soil and fertilizers are also very important.

Select a high quality potting mix such as Gardner & Bloome Potting Soil, and do not forget to mix balanced fertilizer such as an organic from Gardner & Bloome Fertilizers. Also, remember that moisture retention is frequently a problem with containers, so mix in a soil polymer that will hold on to the moisture between watering.

We'll match you up with the correct products once you've selected your tree and/or shrub.

Well, what are you waiting for? Summer is around the bend and it is time to decorate your outdoor living space.

Container Landscaping

Splash Splash Colors in ContainersSplish Splash, we're having a blast!

Splashes of color, a dash of green,

plenty of "spikies," and foliage with sheen.

Trailing and lovely, billowing and white,

large leaf or curly leaf All a delight!

Yes, we're talking about floral and foliage beauty in patio or deck containers. Anything goes; don't hold back. Don't be afraid to plant with annuals, perennials, grasses, vegetables, herbs or succulents. Your plant choices will seem endless.

Container gardening offers something for everyone. Think of it as a work of art and yourself as the artist. You might want simplicity--a single plant, the same color as the chosen pot. Or you may want to find foliage plants (no flowers, please!) of many different sizes, textures and colors to create an arrangement that reminds one of a modern art painting.

Can you envision this: Pennisetum setaceum 'Rubrum', a fountain grass, in the center; various coleus in contrasting colors of burgundy and chartreuse surrounding the grass; a couple of begonia 'Escargot' tucked in for color contrast and foliage texture; and finally,

black Ipomoea (Potato Vine) and Lysimachia (Creeping Jenny) 'Goldilocks' trailing over the sides!

An impressionist look can also be accomplished by blending flowering annuals and perennials, all close in both color and flower size. Or, try a mixture of complementary colored flowers. Imagine this: In the center of the pot towers Queen Anne's Lace, surrounded by white, pink, and purple nemesia. Draping off the sides of the pot, sweet alyssum in white, pink, and purple. All soft colors, sweet fragrances and delicate blooms!

Try mixing ornamental grasses together. Combine soft green stipa or a rich golden brown carex with short tufts of silvery blue Festuca glauca. What a wonderful color combination. Stipa is a wispy grass and will give you "motion in the garden." Don't be afraid to mix your favorite ornamental grass with complementary perennials or annuals.

Rather go with vegetables and herbs? You will not sacrifice beauty; you will explode with it! Purple sage and 'Bergarrten' culinary sage (Salvia Officinalis), basil (many varieties), chives, lettuce (red leaf would be fun), sweet peppers with tiny bright red orange fruits, and French tarragon (it has a bright yellow flower) all surrounding rosemary. Clipping herbs or lettuce for the evening cookout is just a step onto your patio. This combination might be so beautiful you'll hate to snip off any foliage. But don't worry about that; these herbs and veggies will just keep on growing!

Don't forget our planting advice. We encourage you to select a high quality potting mix such as Gardner & Bloome Potting Soil and to mix in a controlled release fertilizer. Also, remember that moisture retention is frequently a problem with containers, so mix in a soil polymer that will hold on to the moisture between watering.

Just a few further tips as you plant your own piece of living art:

1. Consider grouping containers together, varying the heights of plants and containers

2. Make one container the main focal point 3. Create some coherence to each grouping in color scheme and plant forms 4. If the background is "busy" and colorful, choose like colors and lots of foliage 5. If the background is light, rich flower and foliage colors will look fabulous

Summertime is the time for outdoor living! Now is the best time to decorate your outdoor living spaces with floral and foliage works of art. We look forward to watching you create your masterpieces.

Dealing with Brown Patch

By Tamara Galbraith

Americans are renowned for pampering their lawns. We are obsessed with our turf's height, thickness and green coloring.

Unfortunately, such fussiness can lead to problems, especially during the summer months. You may think excessive watering and fertilization will give you a greener lawn when in fact, it can get you a nasty case of brown patch.

Caused by the fungus Rhizoctonia solani, brown patch commonly attacks St. Augustine, Kentucky Bluegrass, Centipede Grass and ryegrasses during the warm, humid months of summer. Brown patch looks just like what the name suggests: large brown patches appear in the lawn and gradually spread outward in a dark, wilted circle or horseshoe pattern. Sometimes the middle of the circle will start to recover a little, resulting in a doughnut-shaped brown and green area.

So what should you do? Here are a few tips:* If you water your lawn in the evening, stop. Early morning irrigation is best.* Cease the use of all high-nitrogen fertilizers.* Set your mower to cut a little higher.* Have a lawn service company perform a core aeration.* Apply a natural fungicide, such as a corn gluten meal-based product, and finely sifted compost, after aeration.

Brown patch tends to shut down when temperatures rise above 90, so gardeners in hotter areas of the country may have to wait until early fall before applying fungicide, as it won't have any effect on a dormant fungus.

And finally, the good news is that brown patch fungus attacks the base of the blade but does not kill the roots. So if you can get a handle on it, your grass will most likely recover...it's just a matter of adjusting your grass pampering methods a little.

June Drop

Do the last thinning on deciduous fruit trees after June drop has occurred. June drop is nature's way of getting rid of an overload of fruit. It may occur any time between early May and July but is most likely to happen around the first of June. One day you visit your apple, peach, or apricot tree and find a circle of immature fruit lying on the ground under the branches. These trees often set more than double the amount of fruit they could possibly ripen properly, so they simply drop off part of it.

If you thinned out the fruit on your trees in April and again four to six weeks later, you enabled the remaining fruit to grow larger, and thus less fruit will drop off now. Nevertheless, you may need to remove even more fruit than naturally drops in order to space your crop evenly down the branches. Inspect other deciduous fruit trees that are less subject to June drop--plums, for instance--and thin out their fruits also.

Clean up the fallen fruit under the tree before it has time to rot and spread disease. If it's healthy, chop it and add it to the compost pile (cover it with earth against flies and rodents). Also water deciduous fruit trees well in June and July.

Growing Pumpkins

No Little Pumpkin

As we begin summer, it's a bit early to think about Halloween parties. But to be successful growing Halloween pumpkins, you need to plant NOW. The giant prize winning 500 pound monsters are usually started in late May. However, the normal run of the mill 3 to 30 pound beauties will do great at this time. You may also choose from hybrids grown for unusual colors such as white or pink.

You might want to consider those that are particularly tasty for pies or edible seeds. The petite ones are great for decorations for Halloween and Thanksgiving.

With all varieties, it is best to plant 3 to 5 seeds in a mound. Space the mounds 2' to 3' apart. The small-fruited varieties will grow well on a fence or trellis. The larger varieties need ground space. Keep evenly moist and feed every 2 weeks. As the plants

grow, you can turn the runners back toward the stem to reduce the space requirement. As the pumpkin matures, place straw or cardboard under the fruit to help prevent rot and insect damage. Pick when the stems start to dry. Be sure to leave a 3" or longer stem for that perfect jack-o'-lantern top.

Healthy Gardening Practices

Gardening can be a great form of healthful exercise. Depending on the intensity of your garden work, you can get quite a good workout. All that bending, stretching and lifting will keep your body limber and muscles toned. But when done incorrectly it can lead to injury.

Before starting any gardening activity, consider stretching for a few minutes to warm up your muscles and prepare them for the work ahead. And if you take any extended break, do a few more stretches before returning to the task at hand. Also, don't double-dig a whole garden if you've not been exercising regularly.

It's also important to remember to replenish your body fluids while working outside. It's easy to get dehydrated on a hot day while enjoying the sunlight if you don't make a point of replenishing the fluids your body is burning off.

Speaking of that sunlight, make sure to apply plenty of sun block to exposed and unprotected parts of your body before starting your gardening activity. While sun visors will help shade the front of your face, a wider brimmed sunhat hat will also shade the sides and, more important, your ears.

Don't forget that garden safety is another important aspect of healthy gardening. Wear appropriate clothing, safety goggles and ear protection if you plan on using power equipment. Using tools with padded and/or spring loaded handles will reduce stiffness in your arms and hands. Wear knee pads or use a knee cushion or kneeler seat if you plan on spending a lot of time on your knees, and wear gloves to protect your hands.

When using a stepladder, be sure its height is appropriate for the type of job you are doing so you aren't tempted to stand beyond the safety step. Finally, avoid spraying or dusting plants on windy days to reduce the chance of absorbing or exposing your body to harmful chemicals. Keeping these things in mind will help you enjoy a safe and healthy time in your garden. So be safe and have fun!

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Garden Club Meeting Times: (any club not listed on this outline, will remain as it is, BASED ON THE PREVIOUS MONTHS NEWSLETTER)

Ramona Garden Club

The June 8 meeting of the Ramona Garden Club will be the final meeting of the year, as the club takes a break for July and August.

The meeting will be held at Collier Park beginning at noon. Activities include new officers installation, potluck lunch with club-provided barbeque, a plant exchange and tour of the gardens. The meeting is for members and their invited guests only.

Ramona Garden Club meets the second Wednesday of each month, excluding July, August and December, at 524 Main Street (the Woman's Club). Call 760-789-8774 or visit: www.RamonaGardenClub.com

Palomar Cactus and Succulent Society

We meet at 12pm on the 4th Saturday of the month (exceptions in 2008- March and May- 3rd Saturday) at the Joslyn Senior Center 210 E. Park Ave., Escondido, CA.Monthly meetings include a raffle, plant sales, and an exchange table as well as a guest speaker. Visitors are welcome.

Contact: Vicki Broughton for more information: 760-741-7553 or vmbroughton@cox.net

San Diego Horticultural Society

General Meetings:

The San Diego Horticultural Society meets on the second Monday of every month from 6 to 9 p.m. in the Surfside Race Place at the Del Mar Fairgrounds on Jimmy Durante Blvd in Del Mar. Mingle with rose enthusiasts, nursery owners, palm fanatics and plant breeders. We’re a diverse and neighborly group!

July 11, 2011 - Maureen Gilmer "Plant Tales of Early California"August 8, 2011 - Lynlee Austell-Slayter "Creating and Keeping a Sustainable Landscape "September 12, 2011 - Tom Spellman "Backyard Orchard Culture"

Click here for driving directions.

Everyone is welcome to attend the monthly meetings, which are free for members and $5 for non-members. (Note: The meeting in June is usually a Special Speakers event; the date and location for that meeting varies each year.)

More about meeting information at SDHS http://www.sdhortsoc.org/meetings.htm

Garden Club Upcoming Events (add in order of most upcoming date, remove any expired events from prior month)

San Diego Horticultural Society

General Meetings:

The San Diego Horticultural Society meets on the second Monday of every month from 6 to 9 p.m. in the Surfside Race Place at the Del Mar Fairgrounds on Jimmy Durante Blvd in Del Mar. Mingle with rose enthusiasts, nursery owners, palm fanatics and plant breeders. We’re a diverse and neighborly group!

July 11, 2011 - Maureen Gilmer "Plant Tales of Early California"August 8, 2011 - Lynlee Austell-Slayter "Creating and Keeping a Sustainable Landscape "September 12, 2011 - Tom Spellman "Backyard Orchard Culture"

Click here for driving directions.

Everyone is welcome to attend the monthly meetings, which are free for members and $5 for non-members. (Note: The meeting in June is usually a Special Speakers event; the date and location for that meeting varies each year.)

More about meeting information at SDHS http://www.sdhortsoc.org/meetings.htm

 

Jack's Organic Speaking Seminars 2010 – 2011

Be sure and tune in to "How Does Your Garden Grow" by Ted Kniffing-Saturday mornings at 7:30 AM on KPRZ 1210 AM. Ted is progressing nicely from his recent illness. We don't know at this time how long it will take for Ted to be able to return to the radio show but Jack will be filling in until that time. Call 1-866-577-2473 with all your gardening questions.

Email: organicjack@cox.net    Web:  www.organicrosecare.org 

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