OXFORD & THE COTSWOLDS

GREG WARD

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Contents

Plan Your Trip Welcome to Oxford & the Cotswolds ................ 4

Top Sights .......................... 6

Eating ............................... 10

Drinking ............................ 12

Activities .......................... 14

Architecture .................... 16

For Kids ............................ 18

Festivals & Events ........... 20

Shopping .......................... 22

Tours ................................. 23

Art ..................................... 24

History .............................. 25

Museums .......................... 26

Literary Links ................... 27

Four Perfect Days ............ 28

Need to Know ................... 30

Bodleian Library (p40)NICK HUGHES / NICKHDESIGN / 500PX ©

Survival Guide 145Before You Go ................ 146

Arriving in Oxford .......... 148

Getting Around .............. 148

Essential Information ... 150

Index ............................... 156

Explore Oxford 33Central Oxford ................. 35

Cowley Road & Southeast Oxford ............ 65

Jericho & the Science Area .................... 77

Explore the Cotswolds 95Chipping Norton & the Central Cotswolds .......... 97

Chipping Campden ....... 107

Broadway & the Northwest Cotswolds .... 115

Burford & the Southeast Cotswolds ... 125

Cirencester & the Southwest Cotswolds ... 135

Worth a TripBlenheim Palace .............. 92

Stratford-upon-Avon ..... 112

Vale of the White Horse ................... 132

Special FeaturesChrist Church ................... 36

Bodleian Library ..............40

A Riverside Stroll in Central Oxford ............. 62

Ashmolean Museum ....... 78

Pitt Rivers Museum ......... 80

Port Meadow Walking Tour ..................... 90

With its ancient colleges, and alleyways lined with pubs and cafes, the university town of Oxford offers a seductive blend of history and modern charm. Off to the west, the golden villages, thatched cottages and stately churches of the Cotswolds – little changed since the Middle Ages – encapsulate a timeless rural idyll.

Welcome to Oxford & the Cotswolds

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Christ ChurchOxford’s largest and grandest college p36

Top SightsR

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Bodleian LibraryOxford University’s magnificent medi-eval library. p40

Blenheim PalaceBaroque extrava-ganza with glorious gardens p92

Magdalen CollegeMagnificent col-lege with beautiful grounds. p66

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Pitt Rivers MuseumEye-opening anthropological oddities. p80

Ashmolean MuseumWorld-class art and archaeology museum p78

Chipping NortonHandsome hilltop town p97

Chipping CampdenThe perfect golden-hued Cotswolds village p107

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Stratford-upon-AvonHistoric birthplace of William Shakespeare p112

BroadwayGold-hued cottages and art galleries p115

BurfordPicturesque town with centuries-old church p126

CirencesterAncient Roman city turned lively Cotswolds town p136

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Eating

While the Cotswolds villages offer visitors abundant fine dining, Oxford’s restaurants tend to be geared towards hungry students, charging reasonable prices for high-quality food. Take your pick from the appealing cafes of cen-tral Oxford, the lively neighbourhood gastropubs, and the student-oriented diners along Cowley Rd.

Dining in the CotswoldsThe Cotswolds having become renowned for a sustainable, locally sourced approach to cooking, its ravishing villages and sumptu-ous countryside hold some truly fabulous places to eat. Organic produce, seasonal ingredients and farm-to-table cooking characterise every-thing from delectable cafe breakfasts and gastropub feasts to Michelin-starred delights. You’ll find organic delis, farmers markets and oh-so-English tearooms at

every turn. It’s always advisable to book ahead, especially for upmarket restaurants but also for the best-known pubs, which attract diners from miles around.

A World Tour of Oxford Mastering the world’s languages and litera-ture can safely be left to Oxford’s high-minded students. For visitors, it’s more appetising to make a globe-spanning tour of its well-priced international- flavoured restaurants. In the Cowley Road

neighbourhood, in particular, almost every major world cuisine is represented, along with some you may have never tried or even heard of. The top of any list has to be the cornucopia of Caribbean specialities at Spiced Roots, while nearby alternatives include Sri Lankan, Slovakian and Moroc-can options.

Best in Oxford Magdalen Arms Relax over a steak pie built for two in Oxford’s finest gastropub. (p71)

Spiced Roots Dedicated vegetarians and die-hard carnivores will be blown

Plan Your Trip E

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Oxford Neighbourhoods

Central Oxford (p35)Oxford’s main sights are concentrated here. The main core is also filled with cafes, bars, restaurants and shops.

Cowley Road & Southeast Oxford (p65)The college is surrounded by meadows and walking paths; nearby are some great drinking places.

Jericho & the Science Area (p77)Jericho is home to the unmissable Ashmolean Museum, while the Science Area holds many of the university’s departments.

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Survival Guide

All Souls College (p48), Oxford DAV I D I O N U T / S H U T T E R STO C K ©

Before You Go 146Book Your Stay ........................................................... 146When to Go .................................................................. 146

Arriving in Oxford 148Getting Around 148Bicycle ......................................................................... 148Bus ............................................................................... 149Car & Motorcycle ....................................................... 149Train ............................................................................. 149

Essential Information 150Accessible Travel ....................................................... 150Business Hours .......................................................... 150Dangers & Annoyances .............................................. 151Discount Cards ........................................................... 151Electricity ..................................................................... 151Emergency Numbers .................................................. 151Etiquette ....................................................................... 151Insurance ...................................................................... 151Internet Access .......................................................... 152LGBT+ Travellers ........................................................ 152Money .......................................................................... 152Post .............................................................................. 153Public Holidays ........................................................... 153Smoking ....................................................................... 153Telephone .................................................................... 153Time ............................................................................. 153Toilets .......................................................................... 153Tourist Information .................................................... 154Volunteering ............................................................... 154

Index

Aaccessible travel 150accommodation

146-8activities 14-15, see

also individual activities

airports 148Alice in Wonderland

39locations 19

All Souls College 48Anne Hathaway’s

Cottage 113architecture 16-17Arlington Row 130art 24Ashmolean Museum

78-9ATMs 152

BBalliol College 52Bannister, Roger 74Batsford Arboretum

103Belas Knap Long

Barrow 122Bibury 130bicycle travel 110,

148-50Big Feastival 101Blenheim Palace

92-3Bliss Tweed Mill

99-101Bodleian Library

40-3Bodley, Sir Thomas

43books 27Botanic Garden 69Brasenose College

49Bridge of Sighs 50Broadway 116-19Broadway Museum &

Art Gallery 117Broadway Tower 117Burford 126-7bus travel 148business hours 150-1

Ccar travel 149Carfax Tower 51Carroll, Lewis 39cell phones 30, 153Central Cotswolds

97-105, 102Central Oxford 35-61,

44-5drinking 56-9entertainment 59food 37, 41, 52-6

sights 36-43, 46-52walks 62-3, 62

Chancellor’s Court 43

Chastleton House 99-101

Chedworth Roman Villa 129

cheese rolling 21children, travel with

18-19Chipping Campden

107-11Chipping Norton

98-101Chipping Norton

Museum 99-101Chipping Norton

set 101Christ Church 36-9Christ Church

Cathedral 37-8Christ Church

Meadow 39Christ Church

Picture Gallery 38

Church of St Mary the Virgin 130

Church of St Peter & St Paul 129

cider 141Cirencester 136-9Cirencester

Park 139climate 146

Cold War Experience 119

colleges, visiting 48Convocation House

41Corinium Museum

137costs 30Cotswold Falconry

Centre 103Cotswold Farm Park

104Cotswold Olimpicks

21Cotswold Way 110Cotswold Wildlife

Park 127Cotswolds Discovery

Centre 129Cotswolds Distillery

101Cotswolds, the 95-

143, 95Court Barn

Museum 110Cowley Road &

Southeast Oxford 65-75, 68

drinking 74-5entertainment 75food 67sights 66-7, 69-70

credit cards 152-3cycling 110, 148-50Cyclo

Analysts 70

See also separate subindexes for:

5 Eating p1586 Drinking p1583 Entertainment p1597 Shopping p159

Sights 000Map Pages 000

Index156

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DDaylesford 105debit cards 152-3disabilities, travellers

with 150discount cards 151Divinity School 41Dragon Hill 133dress 49drinking 12-13, see

also Drinking subindex

Central Oxford 56-9Cowley Road &

Southeast Oxford 75-5

Jericho & the Science Area 87-9

Duke Humfrey’s Library 41-2

Eelectricity 151emergencies 151etiquette 151Exeter College 50

Ffestivals & events 20-1,

see also individual festivals

food 10-11, see also Eating subindex

Central Oxford 37, 41, 52-6

Cowley Road & Southeast Oxford 67

Jericho & the Science Area 79, 81, 84-7

GGloucestershire

Warwickshire Railway 119

Great Hall 37Grevel House 109-10Grove Deer Park 67

HHailes Abbey 122-3Harry Potter

locations 19Heads of the

Emperors 54Hidcote 110-11Highgrove 142highlights 6-9historical sites 25holidays 153Humfrey, Duke 43

Iinsurance 151-2internet access 152internet resources

146, 150itineraries 28-9

JJericho & the Science

Area 77-89, 82-3drinking 87-9food 79, 81, 84-7shopping 89sights 78-81, 84

KKelmscott Manor

130

LLee, Laurie 141LGBT travellers 152Liddell, Alice 39literature 27Lower Slaughter

104-5

MMagdalen Bridge

Boathouse 69-70Magdalen College

66-7Market Hall 109Market House 142Meadows 67Mechanical Music

Museum 129Merton College 47-8Minster Lovell 131Minster Lovell

Hall 131mobile phones 30,

153Modern Art Oxford

49money 30, 152-3Moreton-in-Marsh

103Morris, William (artist)

24, 50, 52, 129Morris, William (car

manufacturer) 70motorcycle travel 149Museum of the

History of Science 48-9

museums 26

NNew Brewery

Arts 139New College 46-7Northleach 129-30Northwest Cotswolds

115-23, 120Nympsfield Long

Barrow 143

OOld Mill 105Old Schools

Quadrangle 43

Old Silk Mill 110opening hours 150-1Oxford 35-61, see

also Central Oxford; Cowley Road & Southeast Oxford; Jericho & the Science Area

history 43, 46Oxford Castle and

Prison 46Oxford Union 52Oxford University

Museum of Natural History 84

Oxford University Press 84

PPainswick 141Painswick Rococo

Garden 141Pitt Rivers Museum

80-1planning 30postal services 153public holidays 153punting 14, 88

QQueen’s College 50

RRadcliffe Camera 42river cruises 56Rollright Stones 101Roman

amphitheatre 137

Ssafety 151Science Area,

see Jericho & the Science Area

Index157

Shakespeare’s Birthplace 113

Shakespeare’s New Place 113

Sheldonian Theatre 51

shopping 22, 89, see also Shopping subindex

smoking 153Snowshill Manor &

Garden 117Southeast Cotswolds

125-31, 128Southwest Cotswolds

135-43, 140St Eadburgha’s

Church 119St Edmund Hall 52St James’ Church

109St John the Baptist’s

Church (Burford) 127

St John the Baptist’s Church (Cirences-ter) 137

St Mary’s Church (Chipping Nor-ton) 99-101

St Mary’s Church (Painswick) 141

St Mary’s Church (Swinbrook) 127

St Mary’s Passage 51-2

St Peter’s Church 121

Stanway House 119Story Museum 48Stow Horse Fair 104Stow-on-the-Wold 104Stratford-upon-Avon

112-13Stroud 142Sudeley Castle 122

Ttaxes 153telephone services

30, 153Tetbury 142time 30, 153tipping 153toilets 153-4Tolsey Museum 127Tom Quad 38Tom Tower 38top sights 6-9tourist information

154tours 23train travel 119, 148,

149-50transport 31, 148Trinity College

49-50

UUffington Castle 133Uffington White

Horse 133Uley 142-3Uley Bury 142Uley Long Barrow

142-3University Church

of St Mary the Virgin 50

Upper Slaughter 104-5

Vvacations 153Vale of the White

Horse 132-3VAT 153volunteering 154

Wwalking 14-15, 110,

123Port Meadow walk

90-1, 90Riverside Stroll in

Central Oxford 62-3, 62

Wayland’s Smithy 133

weather 146websites 146, 150Weston Library 47Winchcombe 121-3

5 Eating5 North St 123Al-Shami 85Angel 127Ashmolean Rooftop

Restaurant 86Atomic Burger 74Badgers Hall 111Bell at Stow 104Branca 87Broadway Deli 117Café Coco 72-3Campden Coffee

Company 111Cherwell Boathouse

88Chiang Mai Kitchen

54Coconut Tree 72Covered Market 53Cuttlefish 73Edamamé 52Eight Bells Inn 111Falcon 141George & Davis 85Grand Café 54Handle Bar 53Horse & Groom 103

Huffkins 127Jaffé & Neale Book-

shop Cafe 99Jesse’s Bistro 137Kazbar 72King’s Arms 93King’s Head Inn 104Lamb Inn 127Lords of the Manor

105Made by Bob 137Magdalen Arms 71Manos Café-Deli 86Martha’s Coffee

House 103Mount Inn 121Moya 72Natural Bread

Company 84New Brewery Arts

Cafe 137Old Bookbinders Ale

House 84-5Old Crown Inn 143Oli’s Thai 71Olivas 141Opera 86Organic Deli Café 55Parsonage Grill 87Pierre Victoire 86-7Queen’s Lane Coffee

House 55-6Quod 56Rickety Press 85-6Rusty Bicycle 73Salt 113Society Café 55Spice Lounge 127Spiced Roots 70Star Anise 142The Chester 72Turl Street Kitchen 53Vaults & Garden 53Wheatsheaf 129-30White Horse 133

Sights 000Map Pages 000

Index158

Wild Thyme 99Zheng 87

6 DrinkingBear Inn 57-8Big Society 75Café Tarifa 74Crown & Trumpet 117Eagle & Child 88-9George Street

Social 58Head of the River

56-7Isis Farmhouse 13Jericho Coffee

Traders 57

Jericho Tavern 88King’s Arms 57Lamb & Flag 87Missing Bean (Central

Oxford) 58Missing Bean (Cowley

Road & Southeast Oxford) 75

Old Thatch Tavern 113Oxford Wine Café 88Peloton Espresso 75Raoul’s 87-8The Grapes 58Thirsty Meeples 57Three Goats Heads

58Turf Tavern 56

Varsity Club 57White Horse 58-9Woolpack Inn 141

3Entertainment

Catweazle Club 75Cellar 59Creation Theatre 60O2 Academy 75Oxford Playhouse 59Royal Shakespeare

Company 113

7 ShoppingAlice’s Shop 61Ashmolean Shop 89Blackwell’s 59-60Daylesford Organic 105farmers market 143Highgrove Shop 143Hoyle’s 61Last Bookshop 89Objects of Use 61Oxford Brush

Company 130Westgate Shopping

Centre 60-1

Index159

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Contributing Writer Catherine Le Nevez researched and wrote the Stratford-upon-Avon Worth a Trip feature.

Greg WardSince whetting his appetite for travel by following the hippy trail to India, and later living in northern Spain, Greg Ward has written guides to destinations all over the world. As well as covering the USA from the Southwest to Hawaii, he has ranged on recent as-signments from Corsica to the Cotswolds, and Japan to Corfu. See his website, www.gregward.info, for his favourite photos and memories.

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