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69 Ton Signpost
1
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nspiration can come upon you quite suddenly. I
had always liked an image of an abandoned
Porsche King Tiger with its turret turned to the
rear when I came across another picture of the
same vehicle with 2 boys sitting astride the gun.
Very quickly I had managed to uncover a further
series of pictures giving an all round view of the
tank and showing that the vehicle had been used
as an improvised signpost by the advancing
Allies and I was inspired.
The particular Tiger had served with the 3rd
company of PzAbt 503 and has been tentatively
identified as ‘311’. It appears to have broken
down during the retreat from Normandy and to
have been scuttled by its crew. Given its
thorough photographic coverage I would
speculate that it must have been one of the first
examples that the advancing Allies came across.
The release of Dragon’s new Porsche King Tiger
was all the excuse I needed to begin and at
about the same time Andrea released their figure
set of the two boys which seemed ideal for my
purposes.
Dragon’s Porsche King Tiger Modelled by David Parker
Photo Bovington Tank Museum
Photo IWM via Barry Crook
Photo Bovington Tank Museum
I
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The welded shell
port would
normally be
hidden by the
zimmerit. GREEN
STUFF putty was
applied around a
circle of plastic as
a guide.The rivets
are from MODEL
KASTEN
The interlock on the
rear armour is too wide
and must be narrowed
The leverage point on
the hatch is drilled out
FRIULMODEL tracks
replace the kit parts -
these are the old style
crimp together type
The muzzle brake is
rotated slightly to
replicate the
photographs
With an open hatch
MORI comes to the
rescue by providing
all the internal details
on their replacement
cupola.
Zimmerit is applied using
MILIPUT which can be
chipped off easily before it
completely cures.
The Pistol port on the turret hatch was
drilled out and an ABER plug from their
Ferdinand set was fitted.
MR SURFACER was used to add
texture to the hull where zimmerit
is missing.
Construction
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Photos 1 to 3
The initial painting sequence with a dark
brown coat applied before the base coat of
sand and finally the camouflage pattern
along with some rusty tones on the turret
and engine deck.
Photos 4 to 5
Areas of rusted bare metal are picked out
in mottled tones of enamels and the
engine deck gets a base coat of dark
brown.
Photo 6
The remnants of the zimmerit paste are
picked out on the turret using a fine brush.
Photos 7 to 8
I cut down a small chisel brush to the
width of the zimmerit pattern and stippled
on different toned ribbed patterns to the
areas where the zimmerit had been lost.
Areas of red oxide primer were also
applied to areas of more conventional
damage.
Photos 9 to 10
These close ups show the application of
rust stains and chipped paint around the
hatches. Note that a wash has been
applied to the whole vehicle using a mix of
oils and enamels.
Photo 11
An overall view of the tank with the
chipped zimmerit looking very prominent.
Photo 12
The same ribbed effect was also applied to
the areas of flaked zimmerit.
1 2
3 4
5 6
5
Painting
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7 8
9 10
11 12
13 14
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Painting
16 17
18
15
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252423
8
Photo 13
The engine deck is given a top coat of
assorted rust tones using enamels.
Photo 14
Although they are not visible on the period
photos turret numbers were hand painted
on the rear and right side of the turret
Photo 15
Areas of rust were oversprayed with tones
of red brown gouache to unify the
underlying enamels followed by areas of
black soot staining around the burnt areas.
Photos 15 to 20
Scuffs and chips are applied to areas of
high wear along with rain streaked stains
on the vertical surfaces. At this point the
heavily weathered appearance is really
starting to work.
Photos 21 to 22
Weld beads are picked out in a Gunze
Colour silver which can be polished when
dry.
Photos 23 to 25
The tracks are sprayed with enamels in a
chocolate brown colour before getting a
wash of rust toned enamels. Next earth
toned pigments are brushed into all the
recesses followed by some diluted rust
pigments. After fitting the tracks they are
given a light wash on the raised surfaces
with more enamels.
Photo 27
Because the tank has been at the roadside
for some time I added areas of dust to the
horizontal surfaces. This shot of the engine
deck shows it around the turret ring and air
intakes.
20 21
22
26 27
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28 29
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30 31 32 33
35 36
34
Photos 26 to 27
With close reference to the photographs
the lettering was applied to the turret using
white enamels which was dirtied with
Humbrol No.72.
Photo 28
More debris was applied to the decks with
small stones and sticks scattered around
to add to the feeling that the vehicle has
been sitting at the roadside for some time.
Photo 29
Similarly the tracks are sunken into the
base and accumulated debris is added to
the inside of the tracks and strands of
grass are growing up through the tracks.
Photos 30 to 34
The Andrea ‘Rascals’ figures were ideal
and required only minor adjustments. I
chose to remove the seated boy’s hat an
sculpted a new top to his head using
Magicsculpt. These were the first children's
faces I had painted and it required a
slightly different approach - no 5 O’clock
shadows but pink cheeks instead.
Photos 35 to 36
Details of the debris on the upper deck
and turret, notice the bird droppings on the
turret roof.
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Finishing touches
A simple base was made using
polystyrene ceiling tiles into which the
drainage ditch was cut to replicate the
groundwork in the photographs. Whilst the
layer of filler was still wet the tank was
positioned on the base projected by a
layer of cling film. This allowed me to sit
the tank into the filler for that realistic
sunken appearance. The ‘footprint’ of thetank tracks were then cleaned out of any
remaining filler before it set.
Once dry, the tank was repositioned and
the grass matting was torn into irregular
sections and glued into place around the
vehicle, checking all the time that the
positioning looked natural. I kept the longer
grass close to the hull as people walking
around the vehicle would tend to wear
down the foliage. When the grass has
dried the tank was again removed and thebase was sprayed using gouache. The
vehicle was then glued into position and
the grass was adjusted for a final fit around
the running gear and the figures were
glued into position. The final touch was the
fitting of the muzzle brake which I had to
leave separate in order to slide the boy
down the barrel. This was fitted at a slight
angle as seen in the photographs.
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TAMIYA’S PALM
TOP PANZER
modelled byLucianoRodriguez
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Introduction
In the current modeling market, military vehicles have appeared at
some apparently unusual scales, and the traditional scales (1/35 or
1/72) have been improved to unexpected limits in recent times.
Nowadays, scales as diverse as 1/144 or 1/16 are firmly established
and have many fans though a few years ago this would have been
hard to predict.
In this period of constant development, it was only a matter of time
before a company tried to fill the gap for military vehicles in quarter
scale. Well, the fact is that the idea is not new and some
companies have tried it before with some success, but regrettably
there was never the demand or the production to popularise the
scale as 1:35th was. Since then, quarter scale has been mainly
provided for with die-cast replicas and a few resin kits for aircraft
fans. Fortunately, it seems everything is changing now with this
wave of new releases. Tamiya has restarted producing kits in 1/48
scale, and they may have the influence to settle down a "new"
industry standard into the modeling market. We will know soon after
the reaction of other modeling brands and aftermarket companies.
Some more kits (M4, Stug III, Hetzer, M4 A1, M-10…) will be
available by the time this article is published
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Inside the box
We find a very nicely detailed Tiger I early
production model molded in dark gray
plastic with die-cast chassis. The design of
the kit is coherent and simple, sacrificing
the number of optional parts in exchange
for a good average quality and a really
easy assembly, something Tamiya excels
at. In order to avoid handling small or
fragile parts, it is surprising to see how
some parts are moulded on, like some
tools on the upper hull or the solid handles
in the turret hatches and engine access
cover. This may be surprising for
experienced modelers, but do not get it
wrong. No one is trying to replace 1/35
scale with these smaller kits, although I am
sure we will see outstanding detailing work
in the future from the hands of talented
modelers. This is one nice & easy kit or an
excellent base for super detailing.
I cannot imagine the reasons for including
a die-cast chassis, maybe lower production
costs, but I must say it makes our modelheavy-a strange but nice sensation for this
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size of kit. Fitting is almost perfect all the
time and mixing metal with plastic parts is
no problem at all, even for a beginner. In
addition, the metal chassis comes primed
in matt light gray lacquer, something really
helpful for assembling & painting.
The kit provides a good combination of link
by link and track sections that I would love
for its 1/35th scale series. The tracks can
be assembled over a guide included in the
"A" sprue. The system works well and one
can easily assemble the tracks even with
the right sag. The kit also includes the two
different drive sprockets used by early
Tiger versions.
Once on the workbench, I assembled the
model following the instructions almost
from the box totally. I simply refined some
parts and other minor details to give it a
better presence. For that, I divided the
pipes of the air cleaners that come
together in the kit, and hollowed their
exhausts with a drill. With thin copper wire I
replaced all the handles in the hatches
and made the light connections along the
upper hull, and I made the attachments of
the spare track links to the turret sides with
styrene sheet . After that, all that is left is
to decide if you want to leave the crew
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hatches open or closed. Tamiya have
recently released a panzer crew figure set
to populate these kits.
Painting
Tamiya included four very interesting
marking & painting schemes in this kit. The
early Tiger I is a really fashionable subject
at the moment so Tamiya have taken
advantage of this and provide four quite
unusual -but well known and attractive-
options. After studying color schemes
deeply, I decided for this one (s.Pz.Abt.505
, Russia, Summer 1943) , mainly for its
interesting pattern. Also, it seems that for
some reason dark yellow/red brown
schemes are not actually very popular
among modelers for this cat . Don't ask me
why!
The camouflage is painted copying the
pattern from the instructions sheet using
airbrushed Tamiya acrylics. First I applied a
plain coat of dark yellow (XF-60) and after, I
free hand airbrushed the stripes with red
brown (XF-64). I first mixed both colors with
flesh (XF-15) instead of white. This made
them lighter and it also helps to get some
subtle harmony among them. Once the
camouflage was finished I sprayed the
model with Future, and applied the decals.
Following this, I painted all the tools and
accessories with several Vallejo colors. This
includes the tow cables, the tracks, and all
the wheels were painted in earth brown
color directly before painting the rubber
tyres. I finally lacquered again to seal all
the previous work for the last time.
From that point I first painted some
chipping and mapping with Vallejo colors,
following no specific pattern. The trick is to
use similar –lighter or darker- tones to the
camouflage colors, and to get a small
chips to scale. I enhanced all the shapes,
recesses and engraved lines with a dark
wash with very dilute Tamiya enamels,
black (XF-1) and red brown (XF-64). I also
blended all over the vehicle small drops of
other vivid colors like olive green (XF-58) or
hull red (XF-9) that I faded with a wet clean
soft brush, acting as filters, and changing
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the appearance of the color in areas.
For dust and weathering, I made some
light washes with buff (XF-57) mixed with
red brown (XF-64) in enamel. The trick is to
watch it while it dries, and correct it while
still wet when necessary. Do not apply a
thick coat, and repeat the process –totally
or partially- as many times as you wish. I
also applied some washes with Vallejo red
brown and orange to the exhaust guards,
and to the tracks over a very dark brown
base. For the wheels I applied some
washes with buff (from the acrylic range
this time) to highlight their details and give
a dusty and dry appearance.
I added some rust to the spare track links
with Mig Productions pigments. To
enhance the main shapes of the hull and
turret, using some different grade graphite
pencils. I picked out all the edges carefully.
It may take time, but this redefines all the
basic lines of our model, regaining it's
complexity. I also used pencils to give a
heavy metallic appearance to the tracks.
Conclusion
Finally, in my honest opinion, I think quarter
scale kits can be a very enjoyable
alternative and modelers can have a very
good time in the company of these new
kits to come.. Let me wish a long life to
1/48th!
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tiger(P)Zimmerit, Love it but Hate it.
I have always loved the appearance of Zimmerit on the Tiger I
tanks. Zimmerit adds a rough uncomfortable look to this already
ominous Vehicle. I built half-a-dozen Tiger tanks during my early
modeling days. Most of the examples I wanted to construct had
Zimmerit and at the time I was hesitant to replicate this because of
my limited modelling skills. I knew that I would not be able to
dodge the Zimmerit “ball” for ever. This ball finally hit me when I
started constructing Dragon’s new Sd.Kfz.181 Panzerkampfwagen
VI (P) or Tiger (P)
After loosely fitting some of its major components I immediately fell
in love with this kit. I decided to put my two current projects aside
and around two weeks later, the model was assembled, complete
with Zimmerit, and ready for painting.
During this article I am going to show you how to construct and
paint Dragon’s new Tiger (P) model. I will explain how I painted and
assembled the model to represent one of the Panzerkampfwagen
VI (P) tanks sent to Russia with the s.Pz.Jg.Abt.653 during April of
1944. The construction phase of this article will focus primarily on
how I applied the Zimmerit. I placed much emphases on the
Zimmerit application because I found this phase of the model to be
the most time consuming and tedious. Applying accurately scaled
Zimmerit is a very important ability for all Second War armour
modelers. Zimmerit included, I found Dragon’s new Tiger (P) kit to
be a joy to assemble.
This model was a bit unusual for me. I would not only be simulating
chipped paint, but chips onto the Zimmerit as well. The unique
surface of the Zimmerit would also make weathering this model
a bit different.
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Adam Wilder Models Dragon’s Tiger (P)
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1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
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10 11 12
13 14 15
Construction
During my past articles I have always
encouraged modelers to use photo-etched
brass (PE) fenders and other components
onto their scale models. For this this
article, I decided to construct DML’s Tiger
P primarily out of the box. Being partially a
review, I wanted the readers to see the
different parts of this nice kit. I also wanted
to focus on the application of the Zimmerit.
Photos 1 to 3
I started construction by assembling the
seven major components of the hull top,
as seen in photo no. 1. One of the only
assembly issues I found during this was
ensuring the corners of the hull top line up
with the sides. Make certain the front
corner of the full top is properly aligned
with the sides as seen in photo 2. Align the
two corners and let the rest of the hull top
and sides fall into place. Flame cut edges
were added to the hull sides using a hobby
knife.
Photos 4 to 8
I exchanged a few E-mails with the well
known modeller Lester Plaskitt. He
recommended that I use Milliput to
replicate the Zimmerit. Although he
recommended the grey/green type Milliput,
I only had the super fine white type given
to me while in Japan. I decided to have a
go at this task using what I had to hand.
After practicing my zimmerit application
skills on a scrap piece of plastic, I was able
to perfect my method. I started by
constructing a Zimmerit tool from sheet-
styrene as shown. I filed a bevel on a piece
of .060 thick styrene. I then cut the beveled
piece of styrene into lengths roughly 4mm
wide and glued the beveled lengths
together, making sure the bevel on each
length is facing the same direction. Align
the beveled edges on a flat surface before
gluing them together.
I chose to use some tap water to soften
the Milliput during mixing which makes it
easire to work. The brand of Milliput used
on this model took about six hours to set
allowing plenty of working time.
Photos 9 to 13
With the Miliput mixed I was ready to start
adding the Zimmerit to the model. The
front and rear plates are moulded as
separate parts. Applying Zimmerit to these
areas is difficult because of all the bolt
heads. I started applying small amounts of
miliput randomly around the panel and
then pressed the Milliput flat with a
modified paint mixer. I used the paint mixer
because I did not have a spatula small
enough at the time to fit between the bolts
as seen in photo nine. A small amount of
Milliput will go a long way when using it to
replicate Zimmerit. I worked the Milliput
evenly over the entire surface of the part,
then used a toothpick to remove some of
the excess Milliput from around the details.
and any areas where I felt it to be too thick
and out of scale. After this I used my
finger, moistened with tap-water, to
smooth the surface further. Use a sharp
hobby knife blade and tap-water to
remove Milliput from small crevasses and
other difficult to reach areas. I used an old
wet paint brush to eliminate any remaining
unwanted Milliput .You may need to
perform these steps two to three times
before the Milliput is ready to be pressed
with the Zimmerit tool.
Photos 14 to 15
I brushed some more water over the
Milliput and started embossing it with my
Zimmerit tool which was also wet, making
sure the bevels on the tool are facing
downwards. I wrote the word “up” on the
top of the tool to avoid any mistakes. I
used a single spare bevel to form ridges
around the details and areas too small for
the Zimmerit tool.
Photos 16 to 17
I then moved on to the model’s sides and
I decided that it would be best to
assemble details like the tool clamps and
fender supports. I felt that it would be
more realistic to place the Zimmerit
around these details than to cut the parts
into the uneven surface. The fenders will fit
onto the assembled hull without needing
glue. Attaching the fenders to the hull
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16 17 18
19 20 21
22 23 24
allowed me to locate and glue all the
supports in place onto the hull. There are
some details, intended for Ferdinand and
Elephant models, which need to be
removed at this time using a knife.
The kit includes wire cables and photo
etched cable clamps to use as an
alternative to the injection moulded parts
also provided. I located the cable clamps
and hooks before the applying the
zimmerit. One of the only areas lacking in
detail on the kit are the tools. The two
shovels and axe are all moulded as one
piece onto what must have been a piece
of flat bar. I decided to cut the three tools
apart then later reattached them using
Aber PE tool clamps. The piece of flat bar
used to mount the tools was replaced with
a piece of sheet plastic.
Photos 18 to 21
With the details fitted to the hull sides, I
was ready to continue applying the
zimmerit using the same techniques. You
will be handling the model extensively
during this process so apply the Zimmerit
to one side of the model and let it dry out
before handling it to do the other side.
Photos 22 through 23
I broke down the turret zimmerit into four
parts - the gun tube, the mantlet, the right
side of the turret and the left side. Once
again, give the Milliput about eight hours to
solidify between each section.
Applying the Zimmerit to the mantlet was
tricky. I applied the Milliput in small
amounts using my hobby knife then spread
it out before using the Zimmerit tool as
seen on photos 22 and 23.
Finishing the Zimmerit was a bit of a
milestone during the construction of this
model and with this done I was now ready
to complete the model’s assembly.
Photos 24 to 28
I made my own handles using the
Grabhandler from Mission Models. I have
always liked the even, seamless, circular
appearance of brass handles over the
plastic ones provided with plastic model
kits. The detail of the 88mm gun on DML’s
Tiger (P) is the best I have seen included
inside a plastic model kit. The suspension
on the DML Tiger (P) kit is also designed
with limited movement as you can see in
photo no 27. I also decided to wire the
lights using stretched sprue.
The two sets of single length vinyl track
included with DML’s Tiger P are also well
detailed. You can glue the vinyl track
together using regular liquid plastic
cement and the join is so good that after
gluing the track it was difficult to see
where the two sides connected. To my
surprise, I was actually quite happy with
vinyl track. The only problem was that
some of the teeth were bent as a result of
their packaging. I simply clipped the bent
teeth away using Xuron snips and glued on
replacements cut from plastic. This is the
first model I have constructed in over five
years where I did not resort to a set of
workable Fruil model metal track. I would
certainly consider using the one piece
Dragon Styrene track again in the future.
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25 26 27
28 29 30
31 32 33
Photos 29 through 33
Photos of the s.Pz.Jg.Abt.653 Tiger (P) in
action show some screens over the rear
louvers of the engine deck. Judging by their
appearance, I would guess that these
screens were a field modification and they
are not included in the kit.
To begin to make the screens I made the
frames using brass rod. I did not have any
material that resembled mesh so I decidedto construct my own using a spool of brass
wire. I carefully marked the frames and cut
the wire into lengths and soldered them to
one side of the frame as shown in photo 29.
I used a 6” scale to help me hold the frame
in position while fixing the wire and soldered
the other end of the wire to the frame and
trimmed it. I then wove perpendicular wires
into the first set using a fine pair of
tweezers. This was a very tedious task and I
alternated from each side working toward
the middle of the screen and it becomes
harder as you work toward the center. With
the screens completed I filed the wire flat on
the frames allowing the screens to sit flush
on the louvers.59
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The Assembled Model
Dragon’s Tiger (P) is one of the most
enjoyable models I have constructed in
years. The fit of the parts, for the most,
was good. After completing the model it
was brought to my attention that a large
circular hatch is missing from the rear of
the kit turret. This hatch was also absent
from the 1/35 scale line drawings I
referenced by Hilary Louis Doyle. Other
than this I found the kit to be quite
accurate. Now let’s move onto painting the
model.
Painting
Applying the Base-Coat
German three-tone camouflages are
always fun to apply. This Tiger was also
going to be the first model with Zimmerit
that I had painted.
Photos 1 to 2
I always paint the base coats on my
models using Tamiya and/or Vallejo acrylic
paints. Acrylics are easy to spray, less
toxic and stand up well to the enamel and
oil washes I apply during the model’s
weathering stages.
Tamiya acrylic paints dry quickly and I have
discovered that Tamiya acrylics can
sometimes dry before hitting the model
resulting in a rough sandy appearance. To
help avoid this problem try reducing your
air pressure. Before airbrushing I first paint
the inner parts of the model’s hatches.
With the inner part of the hatches painted,
I can place them on the model in the
closed position allowing me to paint the
models exterior more easily.
The Tamiya paints I used to mix my dark-
yellow were XF-60 with a bit of XF-57, X-8
and X-2. I also added some X-22 clear to
improve the airbrushing qualities of the
paint.
Photo 3
I added some more white to some of the
dark yellow used for the base-coat. With
the aid of some different sized pieces of
cut paper, I carefully airbrushed some of
the models extruded components such as
the large cover on the hull rear and louver
housings. The top of the turret and upper
side of the gun was also airbrushed with
this lighter shade of dark yellow. This
breaks up the individual components
making the model more interesting.
Next I added a small amount of blue to
some of the dark-yellow. I airbrushed this
darker shade under the hull, on the lower
part of the turret, and under the gun. Photo
10 shows the model after these two steps
were completed. Although these colors
look a bit exaggerated now, they will be
come less evident once we start applying
the weathering steps.
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
60
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10
11 12 13
14 15 16
Photos 4 to 5
I decided to airbrush the dark green part of
the three-tone camouflage first. I increased
the PSI on my air source from 15 to about
27. I kept my green paint to thinner ratio at
about two parts paint and three parts
isopropyl rubbing alcohol.
I mixed the green using Tamiya XF-5 with a
bit of XF-60 and X-8. Airbrushing the red-
brown part of the camouflage was quicker
and easier to apply than the green. During
this step I could simply use the green as a
guide to make sure the red-brown was
balanced. I airbrushed the red-brown,
again at random thicknesses, alongside
the green.
Photos 6 to 7
The markings for the s.Pz.Jg.Abt.653 Tiger
(P) were applied using Solvaset to soften
the decals allowing them to conform to the
uneven surface. Some areas were pierced
with a sharp knife to avoid air pockets.
I then applied a coat of Tamiya X-22 clear
over the entire model including the running
gear. This coat of clear serves two
purposes. First, it helps to protect the
base-coat from the oil and enamel washes
that will be applied during the up coming
weathering stages. Second, the clear coat
will give the model a glossy finish. During
the next step we are going to be adding
artist oils to the model. The artist oils will
reduce the glossy finish giving the model a
realistic finish.
Photos 8 to 9
The artist oils you apply during this stage
will depend upon the color of the base-
coat and camouflage. The colors I use for
a German three-tone camouflage are
white, yellow and burnt umber. You will
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17 18 19
20 21 22
23 24 25
need to break the model up into imaginary
parts then apply and blend the oils onto
one area at a time. Using a brush, I apply
the different colored oils in dots then blend
them with turpentine. Adding differing
amounts of colours to different areas will
give diverse hues over the model. For
example, I added more white to the
model’s horizontal surfaces while adding
additional burnt umber the model’s sides.
Photo 11
After letting the oils dry for 24 hours, I
mixed the some lighter and darker tones
using the same oil colors I applied the
darker tone around various details such as
around the hatches. Dampen the brush
with a bit of turpentine to help you spread
the oils during this step. It is important to
note that a small amount of artist oil will
spread over a large surface.
Photo 12
The artist oils wil l need about three days to
dry. This is a good time to start painting
the model’s various details such as the
tools and cables. I use pieces of cut paper
to help prevent unwanted paint on the
model’s base-coat during this task.
Photos 13 to 14
General washes are the fist washes I add
to the model during its painting. General
washes are another way of adding fake
shadows around the model’s finer details. I
mix the washes at different paint-to-thinner
ratios when applying them to different
parts of the model using both enamel and
artist oil paints which gives the spreading
properties of the oils combined with the
opaque characteristics of the enamels.
Photos 15 to 16
Simulating chipped paint onto a 1/35 scale
model can be a bit tricky but chipped paint
can add an incredible amount of
authenticity to a scale model. It is very
important that you use the correct brush
during this step. The first thing we need to
do during this step is add areas of scraped
paint where the paint has been worn but
not entirely down to the red-primer and
steel underneath. Using Vallejo Model
Color acrylics I mix, a colour a few shades
lighter than the paint on the model. I
usually focus the chipped paint primarily
around the corners and edges of the
details. I also added random areas of
scrapes onto the zimmerit.
Photos 17 to 18
With the lighter colored scrapes painted I
started adding chips of primer using
Humbrol enamel No.100. As part of the
chipping process, I mixed a zimmerit
colour using a light grey shade. Ashes-
White pigments were also mixed with the
Humbrol paints.
Photo 19
For the final step of the chipping process I
added areas of rust onto some of the
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chips of exposed primer. I also added
streaks of rust by applying vertical lines of
paint onto the model using a fine brush.
Wash the lines of rust colors downward
using the same fine brush dampened with
turpentine.
Photos 20 to 22
Graphite was randomly brushed onto the
tools and cables. Graphite was also
rubbed onto parts of the model polished
clean by the crew such as the cupola and
edges of the hatches. Black Tamiya
acrylics were also dry-brushed onto the
tread plate of the fenders.
Adding the Earth Colours
I wanted this Tiger P to have the dry-dusty
look seen in photos of the vehicle. The
recent models I have painted have also
been wet and muddy. I wanted this dusty
model to add a bit of variety to my display
case.
Photos 23 to 24
For the first part of the weathering process
I airbrushed a coat of Tamiya Buff onto the
lower chasses and fenders. Cut pieces of
paper were used of mask certain parts of
the model that I wanted to remain clean.
Large random areas of buff were
airbrushed onto the top of the model
where dust would collect.
Photos 25 to 26
Applying rain-marks onto a model using
thinned Tamiya Buff is a great way to add
subtle streaks of rain-washed dust onto a
model. You will want to make a wash of
about 90% water and 10% Tamiya buff. You
will need to place the wash onto the model
using a small brush. Place the rain marks
onto the sides and slopes of the model
using vertical strokes.
Keep using vertical strokes until the water
evaporates then repeat the process. Apply
the thinned buff to the horizontal surfaces
of the model. This step will also add a
slightly scuffed appearance to the
airbrushed areas of Buff applied during the
previous step.
Photos 27 to 28
I then added areas of dry-mud using a
concoction of buff and dark-earth Tamiya
acrylics. I then add some light dust and a
little Europe dust pigments. The final
ingredients added are some plaster and
sifted sand for texture. This was applied to
the underside and lower parts of the
chassis using an old brush. If the dry-mud
mixture starts to get too hard simply add a
bit of water and mix it thoroughly.
Photos 29 to 30
After giving the dry-mud time to set I
started adding a second layer of dust to
the model using pigments. I mixed a dust
color using three parts light-dust and one
part Europe-dust. I brushed light amounts
of the dust mixture onto the model. I then
blended the pigments using Humbrol
thinner as shown in photo 43. Pigments
mixed with Humbrol thinner were also
26 27 28
29 30 31
32 33 34
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35
36
37
38
brushed under the model onto the dry
earth.
Photo 31
I was ready to apply the fresh earth using a
similar mixture this time I using Humbrol
Chocolate 98 as the base. I then added
Russian earth colored pigments, brown
artist oils and gloss varnish.
After the fresh mud had some time to dry, I
lightly brushed more earth coloured
pigments onto the model.
Photos 32 to 33
The tracks were treated in a similar way. I
started by spraying a coat of Tamiya Dark-
Earth to serve as a base. A heavy coat of
dry-mud mix was then applied to the outer
side of the track. I wiped the outer edges
of the track clean with my fingers.
Fresh-earth was applied to the center of
the tracks and worn steel was dry-brushed
to the outer edges of the track using a
combination of Humbrol metal coat
colours. The metal colour was also added
to the inside areas of the tracks, drive
sprockets and idler wheels.
Photos 34 to 35
The outer edges of the roadwheels were
painted in the same manner and graphite
was rubbed onto them. After finishing the
tracks and running gear, I glued them to
the model. I needed to super-glue the
tracks to the tops of the road-wheels to
give them a realistic heavy appearance.
Photo 36
Refined areas of fresh mud were also
blended into corners and around details on
the upper hull and turret.
Photos 37 to 38
An acrylic gloss varnish was used to add
some streaks of moisture onto the vertical
and angled parts of the model. Lubricant
was added to some of the running gear
using a mixture of oxide enamels, artist
oils, gloss varnish and pigments.
Graphite was added to the tread-plate over
the areas I dry-brushed black in the
previous steps. The final step was applying
a mixture of Ashes-White and panzer grey
pigments to some of the areas of chipped
zimmerit.
The Finished Model
Constructing and painting DML’s
Sd.Kfz.181 Panzerkampfwagen VI (P) was
one of the most enjoyable models I have
constructed in years providing a much
needed break from any added details such
as brass and styrene components.
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T he first time I saw the Fehrmann
Tiger’s was in the book “Tigers on
the Western front”. The pictures of
F 13 caught my eye especially. The
hand painted turret numbers, the
extremely battle-damaged appearance, the
flaked zimmerit and the half open engine vent
hatches made it an exciting challenge to make in
scale 1:35.
History
This Tiger, together with five others, belonged to
Companie Fehrmann (identified by the letter F in
the turret number) of Kampfgruppe Schulze.
Companie Fehrmann was established in January
1945 in Oerbke Camp in northern Germany. They
set off from Fallingbostel towards the Weser and
ended up in the sector of Wietersheim, where on
the 11th of April the last Tiger was lost. All six
Tiger’s were early or mid 1943 versions with the
early rubber tire road wheels replaced by late
steel rimmed wheels. The tracks were also
replaced by late tracks with ice cleats.
The Kit
The most suited kit for this project was Tamiya’s
early Tiger kit 35216. It is the best of Tamiya’s
Tiger kits as you get a lot of good extra parts
from the spare part box. (Early and late drive
sprocket and Feifel filters, etc.). It also has the
correct asymmetrical turret.
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Tiger F13of Companie
Fehrmannby Jens Kronvold Frederiksen
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Getting started
After assembling all the major parts of the
hull and turret, I filled all location holes and
made the rolled steel texture. I did this by
adding plastic cement to all armor steel
surfaces. (Do this in a ventilated room)!
When the plastic was softened, I rubbed a
toothbrush on the surface. ( Do not use it
for tooth brushing after this! ) After a day
or so, I cleaned the model with fine
sandpaper and I achieved a very
convincing rolled steel texture. If you try
this, take care not to get cement on any
details or panel lines etc.
The torch cut edges of the armor plates
were made with a small dentist’s drill. Next
step was to add all the weld seams. I did
this with a pyrogravure (actually it is a
small soldering iron with a homemade tip
of copper rod and I control the heat with a
dimmer).
Some of the original seams on the kit are
very deeply recessed, which is not correct,
so I glued thin plastic strips on before
”welding”.
Lower hull details
There is a long flange on the underside of
each pannier, which is missing in the kit.
I made these from plastic card with plastic
rivets, which were added from
Modelkasten.
The front fenders were cut and small loops
of copper wire were added to represent
the hinges.
The underside front of the panniers and the
front armor plate were built of styrene strips.
It is important to get it right if the Tiger is
without fenders and side skirts. The rear
fender attachment points were replaced
with Aber parts glued on 0.5mm plastic
card. The plastic card was for adding weld
seams around the etched brass part.
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Running gear
I wanted to give my Tiger’s suspension a
“tired” look by lowering the rear of the hull.
I did this by removing the small location
pins on the hull, except the first one on
each side. So the first torsion bars could
be glued on as per the instructions. The
last torsion bars on each side were raised
about 1.5 mm. (Don’t overdo this as you
might end up with too little space for the
tracks)!! All the other torsion bars were
glued on and aligned with the front and
rear ones.
The road wheels were taken from
Tamiya’s late version Tiger. The tracks
are from Modelkasten - by far the
best on the market but time-
consuming to assemble. To add a
little extra detail, I sanded away the
ice cleats on the inside of each
track link to show wear of the
tracks. This feature can be seen
on the preserved Tiger in
Vimoutiers, France.
Zimmerit
I have never been completely satisfied with
my earlier zimmerit attempts with putty
and Milliput, so I decided to try a new
method. An extra challenge in this instance
was also to get the flaking as accurate as
possible.
I decided to try with thin styrene sheet and
the pyrogravure. I used 0.3mm Evergreen
styrene, drawing each panel, the zimmerit
lines, and the exact flaking pattern onto
the plastic sheet with a pencil.
The flaking was cut away and the styrene
sheet was glued onto the model with small
blobs of superglue. (DON’T use plastic
cement, as the styrene will act like cheese
on a pizza when you use the pyrogravure)!
The Pyrogravure needed new tips as wide
as the zimmerit on the hull and a bit
narrower on the turret. I made these
from copper tube hammered flat and
filed into shape like a small
screwdriver. Then it
was simple to add
the zimmerit pattern, just avoid touching
unwanted places and details with the
pyrogravure, as it has to be really hot.
This styrene zimmerit has many
advantages; you can work as slowly as you
want. If you are not satisfied, just melt a
new pattern in the same styrene. When
you need to glue details on, just add a l ittle
cement to the area and you can squeeze
the detail through the zimmerit to sit on
the “steel” surface.
The flaking is also easy to accurately
achieve; I even got the exact amount of
zimmerit rows on my model according to
the reference photos.
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Upper hull details
The driver’s splashguard received five
recessed bolts, by adding a strip of styrene
with holes made with a punch and die set.
Small recessed bolts were also added to
the driver and radio operator’s hatch
hinges.
All the tool clips were added empty. The
only tools on the model are gun cleaning
rods and the engine-starting handle. As I
believe these items are essential! The
Bosch light was scratch built from styrene
with a small piece of copper wire added
inside.
The track cable retainers and towing
hawser holders are included in the ABER
set but cannot be used. In reality they are
not hollow and are made from thin metal.
So I scratch built them from small pieces
of styrene strip.
The antenna socket was drilled to
accommodate a small length of brass tube
with a wing nut added. The engine fans
were taken from an On The Mark photo
etched set. Their centers were made from
modified Panzer IV wheel hubs. The
housings were constructed from styrene
with tube turned in ABS on a lathe.
The half open engine vent hatches took a
lot of work. I first cut off the hatches from
the engine deck (in the hatch hinge itself),
and scratch built a new one to fit the
engine deck. The ABER engine grilles were
super glued on and rubbed down with a
brush handle to simulate that the crew had
walked on them (on F 13 one of them is
apparently missing). The underside of the
hatches had to be thinned down with a
small recessed edge added. The engine
hatch received scratch built hatch jams;
intake duct and feifel hose clamp bases.
The small keyholes were taken from a The
Show Modelling Stug III set and glued into
drilled holes.
All the small flanges with screw holes for
holding the side skirts, Feifel air cleaners
and exhaust shrouds are included in
Modelkasten’s Tiger transport track set SK
3. But I made these myself from 1x1mm
styrene strip. They were glued on a slightly
larger piece of 0.1 mm styrene strip to add
material for the weld seam. You can do the
same with all the small brass details. It
gives you the advantage of being able to
glue these parts on with plastic cement
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(they are a lot easier to position and
align).
The final detail like the small tie downs
and S mine discharger brackets etc. had
to be scratch built. The small lifting lugs
on the exhaust manifolds are included in
the Modelkasten set. The casting
numbers were carefully cut off a sprue
frame and glued on all cast parts.
The single rear fender was from an ABER
set. Add the rear fender to your Tiger at
the end of the build as they are very
fragile. I glued mine on several times!
The turret
The turret was assembled, welded and
styrene strip details were added behind
the mantel.
The rear lif ting lug was cut off and glued
on a small disc for adding the weld. The
brackets for the storage box were made
of thin brass strips and welded on. Upper
track hangers were the Tamiya parts
modified and detailed. The lower hangers
are included in the Modelkasten track
set.
The smoke discharger brackets were cut
off with a torch on the real Tiger, so tosimulate this; I glued on the Tamiya parts
and cut them off with a dentist’s drill.
The Commanders cupola needed some
extra detailing. Fine Moulds clear glass
blocks were added, and the bracket for
holding the hatch in open position were
replaced by a homemade part. The six
drain holes were drilled with a 0.3 mm
drill.
The gun
The gun barrel is from Fine Moulds. It fits
the mantel perfectly. The muzzle brake
was the Tamiya part. It is fine but benefits
from a little detailing: recessed slots,
screw holes and a small slotted ring were
glued inside.
The coaxial machine gun was taken from
a Tamiya infantry equipment set.
Battle damage
Finally I wanted to give my Tiger a battle
damaged appearance. The real F 13 had
several shell impacts, especially on the
turret. I made these by grinding away
plastic with a dentist’s drill and/or using
the pyrogravure. And then it was ready to
paint!
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Painting
There has been a lot discussion about the
colors on the F 13. One source claims
that it was dark gray overall with
red/white numbers. I find that hard to
believe. By studying the pictures, it is
clear that it has more than one color, and
the area on the turret back has a very
light color. Possibly sand yellow?
The turret markings are not red, as red
will appear black on a black and white
picture. The idea behind my colors is
therefore:
• The Tiger was originally painted dark
gray.
• It received a coat of zimmerit and got
painted sand yellow. The turret storage
box may have been replaced, as it had
sand yellow paint underneath it as well.
• The Tiger had a coat of green color.
(Green was used widely on German
vehicles at the end of the war).
• The commander’s cupola was replaced
as it has a different camouflage pattern.
• It has seen a lot of battle action, as the
zimmerit is much damaged.
• Finally, it was assigned to Companie
Fehrmann and had the F 13 turret
number painted on it.
Of course, this is all purely guesswork,
but it explains why my model is painted
like this.
I started the painting process by spraying
two white spots onto the sides of the
turret. This was to be the white outline of
the turret numbers. To accurately get the
turret numbers, they were drawn on a
computer using a picture of the real
vehicle. This was transferred to masking
tape and cut out, and these were added
on the white spots on the turret. The
model was then painted Humbrol 67 Dark
gray overall.
The areas where the zimmerit had flaked
off were masked with Maskol. Thereafter,
I painted it sand yellow. (Humbrol 94 with
white added). This meant that the gray
paint was visible in some areas.
I then masked off the rear of the turret
and the areas that the fenders and side
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skirts had covered, and sprayed a final
coat of dark green. (Humbrol 86 with sand
and white added).
This layer was added in big soft spots so
the underlying colors were visible in some
areas.
All small details were picked out in their
respective colors and I added a thin light
grey line on the edges of the flaked
zimmerit.
The green in the turret numbers were hand
painted with a fine brush with the same
paint mix as the green for the rest of the
tank. The metallic areas on the road
wheels tracks etc. were painted with
Humbrol polished steel.
Weathering consisted of some heavy
washes of brown and black and some
gentle dry brushing with lighter colors.
Much weathering was also done,
especially on the suspension and tracks
with MIG pastel powders. These powders
are really messy to work with, but the
result is well worth it! It can really bring
your model to life.
Parts used
• Tamiya 35216 Tiger I Early version.
• Tamiya 35146 Tiger I Late version (Only
the steel road wheels).
• Modelkasten SK 1 Late Tiger tracks.
• Modelkasten SK 4 Late Tiger spare
tracks. (There are NO spare tracks in set
SK1).
• Modelkasten A1 Bolt & Nuts set
• Modelkasten A2 Round head rivets.
• Modelkasten A4 Wing nuts.
• Modelkasten M7 Bosch lights (I only used
the sockets).
• ABER 35014 Tiger I early photo-etched
parts. (Not many parts used on my model).
Next time I will only by ABER G03 engine
grilles and ABER A20 German clamps and
clasps instead.
• ABER 35A10 Front and back mudguards
for Tiger.
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• On The Mark Models TMP-3526 Tiger
photo-etched parts. (Only the engine
cooling fan blades).
• Fine Moulds Tiger I turned aluminum gun
barrel.
• Fine Moulds MG-23 Clear periscopes.
• Hornet HGH8 heads SS officers.
• Wolf WSH 21 Figure.
The figure
The figure is from Wolf (WSH 21 Officer of
the LSSAH Kegichevka 1943). It was
heavily modified. The legs were cut off and
re-sculpted to fit into the commander’s
cupola. The binoculars were ground away
and replaced with a pair from Tamiya. The
hood on the jacket was also re-sculpted.
The figure was painted with Humbrol
enamel except for the face; it was painted
with Winsor & Newton oil paints.
Conclusion
Building and painting the F13 was really an
enjoyable project. It took me a year to
complete! The actual build took me about
three months, but the model stood on my
shelf for quite some time before I decided
how to paint it.
I find it very interesting to build an exact
vehicle from photographic references, and
with the excellent Tiger kits from Tamiya
and the huge number of books with
interesting Tiger’s, this is definitely not the
last one I will build!
Reference
Tiger’s on the Western front. By jean
Restayn
Tamiya’s steel wheeled Tiger I. By Angus
Creighton
Tigers at the front. By Thomas L. Jentz
Tiger. By Feist and Culver.
www.missing-lynx.com
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