Upload
others
View
6
Download
0
Embed Size (px)
Citation preview
I N D E X L V
Page references of the form 4·381 refer to volume 4 , page 381
PA� METRIC RECIPE TABLESBest Bets for Stocks ................................................................................... 2·296–297Stock Aromatics ............................................................................2·298Broths ................................................................................... 2·304–305Infused Liquids .............................................................................2·310Lowering pH .................................................................................2·314Adding Flavor with Alcohol .........................................................2·317Using Essences and Extracts in Cooking ....................................2·325Extracts ..........................................................................................2·326Infused Fats ...................................................................................2·329Jus ......................................................................................... 2·344–345Consommé ........................................................................... 2·374–375Vegetable and Fruit Purees...........................................................2·425Freeze-Drying ...............................................................................2·451Tartares ............................................................................................3·63Cooking Tender Meats Sous Vide .................................................3·96Cooking Tender Red Poultry Sous Vide .......................................3·99Cooking Tender White Poultry Sous Vide ...................................3·99Cooking Fish Sous Vide ...............................................................3·102Cooking Tender Shellfish Sous Vide ...........................................3·103Cooking Tough Poultry ................................................................3·108Cooking Tough Shellfish ..............................................................3·108Cooking Tough Cuts ....................................................................3·109Cooking Tough Offal Sous Vide ..................................................3·146Cooking Tender Organ Meats Sous Vide ....................................3·146Brines .............................................................................................3·168Wet Cures ......................................................................................3·169 Dry Rubs .......................................................................................3·169 Brining ...........................................................................................3·172Curing ............................................................................................3·172Smoking Meats and Seafood ........................................................3·210Burgers ...........................................................................................3·234Coarse-Ground Sausages .................................................... 3·236–237Emulsion-Style Sausages ..................................................... 3·238–239Fermented Sausages ............................................................. 3·244–245Gas-Ripened Fruit ........................................................................3·285Cooking Fruits Sous Vide Until Tender ......................................3·288Cooking Vegetables Sous Vide Until Tender ..............................3·289Cooking Fruits or Vegetables Sous Vide for Purees ...................3·290Cooking Fruits Sous Vide in Sugar Syrup Until Tender ............3·291Cooking Vegetables Sous Vide with Fat Until Tender ...............3·292Warming Vegetables Sous Vide ....................................................3·292Blanching Sous Vide .....................................................................3·293Potato Purees ................................................................................3·297Pressure-Cooking Plant Foods ....................................................3·300Risotto ...........................................................................................3·305Microwaving Vegetables ...............................................................3·311Naked Frying.................................................................................3·320Fried Fruit and Vegetable Chips ..................................................3·328Batters ............................................................................................3·333Preservation ..................................................................................3·348Heat-Treated Fruit ........................................................................3·359Smoked Plant Foods .....................................................................3·362Dehydration ..................................................................................3·366Freeze-Drying Plant Foods ..........................................................3·372Pasta Doughs .................................................................................3·381Compressing or Impregnating Produce ......................................3·390
Thickening with Natural Starch ....................................................4·28Thickening with Modified Starch..................................................4·30Thickening Cold Liquids ...............................................................4·46Thickening Hot Liquids .................................................................4·47Making Milks and Creams .............................................................4·56Edible Films ....................................................................................4·60Cooking Whole Eggs ......................................................................4·78Pickled and Preserved Eggs ...........................................................4·82Separated Egg Gels .........................................................................4·85Blended Egg Gels ............................................................................4·92Smoking Dairy and Eggs ..............................................................4·100Protein Curds ................................................................................4·104Gelling with Transglutaminase (Activa) .....................................4·116Cold Gels .............................................................................. 4·140–141Firm Coating Gels ........................................................................4·151Hot Gels ........................................................................................4·160Hot Fruit Gels ...............................................................................4·165Methylcellulose Gels ....................................................................4·171Fluid Gels ......................................................................................4·177Spherification ................................................................................4·187Constructed Cheeses ....................................................................4·223Airs, Bubbles, and Froths .............................................................4·264Light Foams...................................................................................4·270Thick, Fine-Textured Foams ............................................... 4·278–279Set Foams ............................................................................. 4·288–289Puffed Snacks ................................................................................4·302
ST� TEGIES TABLESCooking in CVap Ovens and Combi Ovens ...................... 2·170–171Using a Microwave Oven .............................................................2·185Sous Vide Cooking Strategies ............................................. 2·204–205Water Bath Strategies for Cooking Sous Vide.............................2·244Cooling Sous Vide ........................................................................2·255Freezing Sous Vide .......................................................................2·259Thawing Sous Vide .......................................................................2·263Searing After Sous Vide ....................................................... 2·270–275Juicing .................................................................................. 2·336–337Thickening Sauces, Jus, and Glazes .............................................2·346Filtering Liquids and Clarifying Consommés ...........................2·352Concentrating ...............................................................................2·379Grinding, Milling, and Pureeing .................................................2·400Drying ...........................................................................................2·430Cooking with Liquid Nitrogen ....................................................2·459Rendering Fats ..............................................................................3·145Marinating .....................................................................................3·192Making Emulsions ............................................................... 4·208–209Creating Foams .................................................................... 4·258–260
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 55 3/22/11 10:56:30 AM
L V I I N D E X
STEP-BY-STEP PROCEDURESHOW TOWash Your Hands Properly ................................................. 1·198–199Read the Phase Diagram of Water ...................................... 1·302–303Make Exceptional Ice Cream with Liquid Nitrogen ..................1·311Supercool Water ............................................................................1·312Measure Relative Humidity .........................................................1·322Read a Psychrometric Chart ........................................................1·323Find the Sweet Spot ................................................................. 2·16–17Calculate the Sweet Zone of Your Broiler .............................. 2·22–23Make Your Electric Broiler Perform Like a Wood-Fired Oven ......................................................... 2·26–27Season a Wok or Frying Pan...........................................................2·53Pack Food in Canning Jars .............................................................2·78Sterilize Acidic Canned Foods in Boiling Water ..........................2·81Use a Pressure Canner ....................................................................2·89Braise or Pot-Roast Meat................................................................2·99Make Bacon and Eggs in a Combi Oven ............................ 2·174–175Roast a Chicken in a Combi Oven ..................................... 2·178–179Vacuum Pack Food with a Chamber Sealer ....................... 2·218–221Vacuum Pack Food with an Edge Sealer .....................................2·224Cook in a Bath Set to Final Temperature ....................................2·246Cook in a Bath Set Hotter Than Final Temperature ..................2·246 Cook in Multiple Baths ....................................................... 2·248–249Freeze Food in a Salty Brine ........................................................2·260Pressure-Cook Stock ....................................................................2·293Make Stocks: Basic, White, Shellfish, or Rich Brown ................2·297Make Stock Sous Vide ..................................................................2·302Wash Citrus Oil ............................................................................2·321Extract Juice from Plants with Pectinase ....................................2·336Extract Juice by Osmosis or Freezing ................................. 2·336, 337 Keep Fresh-Squeezed Juice Fresh ................................................2·339Clarify Juice with a Buon Vino Pressure Filter ...........................2·355Vacuum Filter ................................................................................2·357Balance a Centrifuge .....................................................................2·363Separate Liquids by Centrifuging ................................................2·364Separate Fresh Butterfat from Cream ..........................................2·366Filter with Gelatin Ice ......................................................... 2·370–371Clarify Liquids with Agar ................................................... 2·372–373Reduce Juice in a Vacuum ............................................................2·381Distill with a Rotavap ...................................................................2·388Freeze Concentrate .......................................................................2·397Mill a Creamy Nut Butter .................................................... 2·418–419Use a Spray Dryer .........................................................................2·442Cryopoach in Liquid Nitrogen or Oil .........................................2·460Cryograte and Cryopowder .........................................................2·461Disassemble Fruit with Liquid Nitrogen ....................................2·462Cryoshape and Cryoshatter .........................................................2·463Carbonate a Liquid .......................................................................2·468Carbonate Fruit ............................................................................2·469Preserve the Freshness of Truffles ...................................... 2·470–471Carbonate Fruit with Dry Ice ......................................................2·472Kill Fish with the Ike Jime Method ................................................3·38Dry-Age Meat ..................................................................................3·42Seam-Cut a Lamb Leg ....................................................................3·46Dissect a Pork Shoulder .......................................................... 3·48–49Block Tuna ............................................................................... 3·54–55Prepare Tender Squid .....................................................................3·56
Fillet a Flatfish ................................................................................3·57Prepare Abalone ....................................................................... 3·58–59Slice Fish for Nigiri-zushi ...............................................................3·60Flash-Cook Sushi with Hot Oil, a Torch, or a Broiler ..................3·61 Cryoshatter for Tartare...................................................................3·64Precook Duck Skin .........................................................................3·82Cook the Perfect Hamburger Sous Vide .......................................3·86Pressure-Cook Tough Cuts for Quick Results ............................3·114Cryosear a Duck Breast ....................................................... 3·124–125Puff the Skin on a Pork Roast ............................................. 3·125–126Cook Crispy Fish Skin and Make Fish Skin Pillows ......... 3·130–131 Brine or Wet-Cure Meat: Equilibrium Method ................. 3·170–171Speed Brine or Wet-Cure by Injection or Vacuum ............ 3·174–175Vacuum Tumble ............................................................................3·175Pressure Marinate .........................................................................3·207Pack and Light Your Smoke Gun .................................................3·214Grind Meat and Fat ......................................................................3·228Form and Finish a Sausage .................................................. 3·240–241Ferment Sous Vide .......................................................................3·245Choose and Use Activa ....................................................... 3·254–256Rejoin Seam-Boned Cuts .............................................................3·255 Make a Leaner Rack of Lamb ......................................................3·255 Bond with the Slurry Method ......................................................3·256 Reconstruct a Whole Fish ............................................................3·256 Ripen on Command .....................................................................3·285Blanch Sous Vide ..........................................................................3·293Make the Ultimate French Fry ....................................................3·322Measure Thickeners .......................................................................4·23Disperse a Thickener ............................................................... 4·24–25Hydrate a Thickener .......................................................................4·26Peel an Egg with Liquid Nitrogen .................................................4·78Make a Perfect Soft-Boiled Egg .....................................................4·79Use Ion-Coagulating Gels ............................................................4·129Use a Sequestrant ..........................................................................4·129Cast Gels .......................................................................................4·132Mold Gels and Suspend Solids in Gels .......................................4·133Cast Thick Gel Sheets and Make Gel “Linguine”.......................4·134Mold and Freeze Gel Spheres ......................................................4·135Make Firm Gel Beads and Droplets ................................... 4·136–137Extrude Gel Noodles ........................................................... 4·138–139Quick-Set a Fluid Gel and Make a Coarse Fluid Gel .................4·179Suspend a Solid in a Gelled Sphere .............................................4·187Create Reverse Spherification .....................................................4·187 Make Clarified and Brown Butter ...............................................4·213Make Edible Prune Coals .................................................... 4·314–315Set Up a Triangle Test ..................................................................4·336Hyperdecant Wine ........................................................................4·343Taste Coffee Like a Pro ................................................................4·365Use a Brewing Control Chart ............................................. 4·366–367Grind Beans for Espresso .............................................................4·377Groom a Portafilter ......................................................................4·381Tamp Evenly ..................................................................................4·382Pull an Espresso Shot .......................................................... 4·386–387Steam Milk ....................................................................................4·390Make Latte Art ..................................................................... 4·394–395Clean an Espresso Machine .........................................................4·397
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 56 3/22/11 10:56:30 AM
I N D E X L V I I
AGING A
A A&P grocery stores, innovations of, 1·21abalones
Abalone and Foie Gras Shabu-Shabu with Yuba and Enoki, 5·197, 203
biology of, 3·26, 27cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·108Japanese cu� ing of, 3·52preparing, how to, 3·58–59
absolutes, from concretes or oleoresins, 2·320
absorptionby graybodies, 1·286of radiation, 1·285
Abu I-Hasan “Ali Ibn Na� ,” 1·10AccuSteam Griddle, 2·41, 158acetaldehyde, citrus � avor and, 5·149acetic acid. See vinegarAchatz, Grant
Bacon Chips with Bu� erscotch, Apple, and � yme recipe, 3·189
Bacon Powder Squares recipe, 4·34biography of, 1·68on copying dishes, 1·71critics on, 1·63on dehydrating fruits and vegetables,
3·366Eggs Benedict recipe, 4·86on elBulli meal, 1·38–39Modernist cuisine and, 1·52, 62, 67Mozzarella Balloons recipe,
4·110–111Pineapple Glass recipe, 3·370Shrimp Cocktail recipe, 3·107Steingarten on, 1·65Tro� er and, 1·69Umami Seasoning Fluid Gel recipe,
4·183Vanilla Olive Oil Powder recipe,
4·35acidi� ers
bu� ering and, 2·315example recipes for, 2·315parametric recipe for, 2·314–315
acidity of food. See also pHboiling-water sterilization of canned
foods and, 2·81canning method and, 2·76pressure-canning and, 2·85–91USDA canning guidelines and,
2·79–80acids or acidic compounds. See also pH;
speci� c compoundsas acidi� ers, 2·314–315for marinating, 3·190, 192–193pH and, 3·194plant food cooking and, 3·276, 278protein gelling and, 4·70
acidulants, thickening with, 4·13
acorn squash, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·289
acrolein, in reused deep-frying oil, 2·124, 125
acrylamideas Maillard reaction product, 1·220in reused deep-frying oil, 2·125
actin, in muscle, 3·6Activa, 3·250–256
characteristics of, 3·250–252choosing and using, how to,
3·254–256for � sh skin pillows, 3·131forms of, 3·252, 253gelling with, best bets for, 4·116–117meat purees and, 3·233molding sausage with, 3·241production process for, 1·257properties and uses of, 3·253rea� aching cooked skin to meat
with, 3·122rejoining seam-boned cuts with,
3·255as sausage binder, 3·223slurry method of applying, 3·256
Activia (probiotic yogurt), 3·252additives. See also preservatives
to centrifuged liquids, 2·368fresh juice taste and color and, 2·338,
339popular perception of, 1·250public scandals involving, 1·252–254
adhesives, for breading, 3·338Adler, Alan, 4·370adrenaline, slaughterhouse practices
and, 3·34Adrià, Albert, 1·35, 2·369, 4·37Adrià, Ferran
Achatz’s meals at elBulli and, 1·38–39aesthetics of nature in dishes of, 4·37Agar Carbonara recipe, 4·161Beet Meringue recipe, 4·295Black Olive Puree recipe, 4·230Black Sesame Rice Crisps recipe,
4·304Blood Orange Foam recipe, 4·272books by, 1·35–36, 59Cappuccino Foam recipe, 4·266as Catalan/Spanish chef, 1·258Cauli� ower Couscous of, 3·388Corn Foam recipe, 4·273creativity of, 1·71Crimini in Amber recipe, 4·154critics on, 1·62, 63on dining as dialogue, 1·37–38fast hot-spring quail eggs and, 4·78foams and, 4·264, 281foams pioneered by, 1·36, 4·244–
245, 254, 255Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam recipe,
4·300future of, 1·35Ham Consommé with Melon Beads
recipe, 4·48
Adrià, Ferran (continued)hired at elBulli, 1·33–34homemade sodas by, 4·239hot and cold pea soup of, 4·176Hot Apricot Marshmallow recipe,
4·293Hot Bu� er Foam recipe, 4·283Hot Egg Mayonnaise recipe, 4·227innovations of, 1·5, 36intellectually motivated cuisine of,
1·52liquid nitrogen and, 1·62, 64, 65Liquid Pimento Olive recipe, 4·193McGee on experiments by, 1·46Melon Caviar recipe, 4·189Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake
recipe, 4·294on misleading appearance of
creations, 5·60Modernist cuisine and, 1·57Mussels in Mussel Juice Spheres
recipe, 4·191Osso Bucco Milanese recipe,
5·60–65Oysters with Mignone� e Air recipe,
4·265pacotized powders by, 2·407Parmesan Nuggets recipe, 4·35on potato purees, 3·296on quail eggs, cooking whole, 4·75Shell� sh Custard recipe, 4·162Soy Sauce Cloud recipe, 4·299on spheri� cation, 4·184spheri� cation developed by, 5·256spheri� ed olives of, 4·126Squid-Ink Bean-Sprout Riso� o
recipe, 3·397Steingarten on, 1·65Sweet Pea Clusters recipe, 4·173on technoemotional cuisine, 1·57� ickened Oil recipe, 4·230Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghe� o
recipe, 4·143worldwide fame of, 1·38–40
adsorption, 2·138, 4·13Aduriz, Andoni Luis
aesthetics of nature in dishes of, 4·37Clay Potatoes recipe, 3·398compression and, 5·285Edible Bar Soap with Honey Bubbles
recipe, 4·267foams and, 4·264Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice
and Sea Le� uce recipe, 3·149Fossilized Salsify Branch recipe,
3·399Green Pea Pods with Citrus Infusion
and Walnut Oil recipe, 4·171on hepatic steatosis and foie gras,
3·139Idiazábal Gnocchi recipe, 4·123“Into the Vegetable Garden” and,
3·294Modernist cuisine and, 1·57
Aduriz, Andoni Luis (continued)Monk� sh with Constructed Skin
recipe, 3·132Quinoa and Idiazábal with Bonito
Stock Veil recipe, 4·168Sweet Pea Clusters recipe, 4·173Vegetable Coals recipe, 3·375Watermelon Meat recipe, 3·394
Aerated Chocolate, 4·313Aerated Co� ee Ice Cream, 4·312Aerated Foie Gras, 4·311Aerated Gruyère, 4·312Aerated Mango Sorbet, 4·311aerating wands, 4·391. See also handheld
whipping wands; steam wandsaeration, vacuum-assisted, 2·214Aero candy, 4·254, 312aerobic bacteria, 1·130, 135–136
vacuum packing and, 2·208aerobic endurance, slow-twitch muscle
� bers and, 3·14, 22–23aerogels, history of, 4·72Aerola� e milk frother, foam forming
with, 4·258, 260AeroPress co� ee brewer, 4·370Africa, ingredients imported to, 1·15agar
clarifying liquids with, 2·372–373for cold gels, parametric recipe for,
4·140for edible � lms, parametric recipe
for, 4·60as emulsion stabilizer, 4·215� ltration with, 2·352for � uid gels, 4·176
parametric recipe for, 4·177as foam stabilizer, 4·257French chefs’ use of, 4·128fruit juice gels and, 3·195gel � ltration with, 2·369as gelling agent, 4·68for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe
for, 4·165for hot gels, parametric recipe for,
4·160interactions with other thickeners,
4·44–45for light foams, parametric recipe
for, 4·270natural sources for, 1·253product guide for, 4·II–IIIproperties and uses of, 4·42–43for thick foams, parametric recipe
for, 4·278–279thickening sauces, jus, or glazes
with, 2·346Agar Carbonara, 4·161Aged Rare Beef Jus, 5·5, 6aging
of co� ee beans, 4·358of Dover sole for sole meunière, 3·40of meats
enzymes and, 3·39, 41, 78
INDEX
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 57 3/22/11 10:56:31 AM
L V I I I I N D E X
A AGING
aging (continued)holding at speci� c temperature
and, 2·247–248sous vide technique of, 2·250of wine
screw tops for wine bo� les and, 4·344
storage conditions for, 4·345–348agricultural science, food science and,
1·48agriculture, early civilization and
development of, 1·6–7AGS (Anderson, Greenville,
Spartanburg) vacuum packing system, 1·40–41
air. See also drying; relative humidityambient, for thawing, 2·263in carbon dioxide containers, 2·464as foaming gas, 4·254in ovens, heat conduction by, 2·102pressure-canning and, physics of,
2·87warm, drying with, 2·431–433water vapor in, 1·319–321, 325
L’Air du Temps, 1·70air pockets, sausage stu� ng and, 3·227,
230air pumps, aquarium
foam forming with, 4·258, 260for sous vide cooking, 2·240–241
airsbest bets for, 4·264example recipes for, 4·265parametric recipe for, 4·264
Ajinomoto Company, 1·213, 3·251Al Sorriso, 1·28Alajmo, Max and Raf, 1·70albedo, of radiation, 1·285albumin, as � ning agent, 2·360albumin powder
for bubbles, parametric recipe for, 4·264
for light foams, parametric recipe for, 4·270
for set foams, parametric recipe for, 4·288–289
for thick foams, parametric recipe for, 4·278–279
alcohol (ethanol). See also spirits; speci� c alcoholic beverages
in ba� ers, 3·316co� ee brewing in, 4·371dissolving in water, 1·296distillation of, 2·384, 390drying with, 2·430extracting � avor with
best bets for, 2·326example recipes for, 2·327
fat washing using, 2·320, 321as foam inhibitor, 4·257gelatin gels with, 4·IVhydrogen bonds in water vs., 1·314laws on production of, 1·94for marinating, 3·195, 198moisture absorbed by, 2·428phase diagram of, 1·303as polar solvent, 1·330seasoning with, 2·317separating water from, 2·384, 390solubility in water of, 1·332as solvent for tastant extraction,
2·320vacuum packing and, 2·213, 214
alcohol (ethanol) (continued)vacuum pressure vs. boiling point of,
2·391alcohols, as by-products of ethanol
distillation, 2·384alcohol sanitizers, 1·200alcoholic fermentation, 3·346Alexander, Alexander, 4·40Alexander the Great, 1·12alginate. See also propylene glycol
alginate; sodium alginatefat incorporation into sausage with,
3·225interactions with other thickeners,
4·44–45as ion-based coagulant, 4·124, 127,
129natural sources for, 1·253production process for, 1·257properties and uses of, 4·42–43as sausage binder, 3·223spheri� cation using, 4·184thickening with, parametric recipe
for, 4·46, 47uses of, surprising, 4·127
Aligoté wine, 4·327Alinea, 1·67, 68. See also Achatz, Grantalkali earth metals, 4·126alkaline marinades, 3·190, 194–195
pH and, 3·194alkaline ramen pasta, parametric recipe
for, 3·381Alléno, Yannick, Venison Loin Rossini
recipe, 3·98allergies, to foods, 1·238–239almonds
Almond Polenta, 4·36bi� er, cyanide aroma and, 3·262Garlic Nougatine, 5·25, 29Marcona Almond Bu� er Paste,
5·281, 282Toasted Almond Milk, 4·59
almond milk, parametric recipe for, 4·56
Almond Polenta, 4·36Alsatian Munster Sausage, 5·35, 39altitude
baking and, 2·113boiling point and, 1·318
aluminum cookwareconduction in, 1·280heat capacity of, 1·278
aluminum foil, in grills, 2·15l’Amador, 1·70Amador, Juan, 1·70amebiasis, 1·119, 129American Association of Wine
Economists, 4·335American BBQ plated-dish recipe,
5·66–79� e American Cheese Slice, 4·224American Dietetic Association, 1·215American Heart Association, 1·224An American Place, 1·28, 29American Spice Trade Association,
3·270American Wagyu Beef Cheek, 5·55, 57Americano espresso, 4·393amino acids
in freshly slaughtered meat, 3·34in shell� sh, 3·27
amylopectin, in starches, 4·20amylose, in starches, 4·20
anaerobic bacteriacanning and, 1·136, 138, 148characteristics of, 1·130curing salts and, 2·143facultative, 1·136, 138pasteurizing and, 2·249–250refrigeration and, 2·257sous vide cooking and, 2·206–207toxin production by, 1·135–136, 141vacuum packing and, 2·209
anaerobic endurance, fast-twitch muscle � bers and, 3·14, 22–23
analytical scales, 4·23anaphylaxis, food allergies and,
1·238–239anchovies
Bagna Cauda Consommé, 5·229, 230Caesar Salad, 3·373
Andalusia, Spain, Islamic courts and gastronomy of, 1·10
Anderson, Greenville, Spartanburg (AGS) vacuum packing system, 1·40–41
Anderson, Sco� , Crispy Sweetbreads recipe, 3·150
Ando, Momofuku, Chikin Ramen and Space Ramen created by, 5·247, 248
Andrés, JoséAdrià and, 1·36Carbonated Mojito Spheres recipe,
4·188critics on, 1·63Modernist cuisine and, 1·62, 67Steingarten on, 1·65Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato
Chips recipe, 4·287androstenone, tru� e smell and, 4·350Angus ca� le, 3·39animal fecal contamination, 1·116–117animal � esh, contamination by, 1·117anisakids, 1·122–123, 182, 190, 194Anisakis simplex, 1·122–123, 174Ankimo Torchon, 3·147antifoaming agents, 4·244, 247, 257antioxidants
in herbs, aging braises and pot roasts and, 2·98
in smoke, 2·143AOC (Appellation d’Origine
Contrôlée) system, for French wine production, 4·331, 332
Apicius, 1·10, 11–12on bread crumbs as thickener, 4·12history of, 1·10on reductions, 4·5, 11seasonings described in, 1·11–12
Apicius, Marcus Gavius, 1·10Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée
(AOC) system, for French wine production, 4·331, 332
Appert, Nicholas, 2·75, 84apple chips, parametric recipe for, 3·328apple cider/apple juice. See also hard
apple ciderApple Cider Consommé, 2·377Curry-Impregnated Apple, 3·393Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade,
4·169Oysters with Cava Foam, 4·277Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion
and Water Chestnuts, 3·101Salted Caramel Apple Puree, 5·17, 20
apple cider/apple juice (continued) Vacuum-Concentrated Apple and
Cabbage Juice, 2·389apples
Bacon Chips with Bu� erscotch, Apple, and � yme, 3·189
Compressed Green Apple, 5·211, 212compressing, parametric recipe for,
3·390cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·288, 290, 291Curry-Impregnated Apple, 3·393dehydrating, parametric recipe for,
3·366freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,
3·372Hot Applesauce Terrine, 5·101, 103Hot Green Apple Gel, 4·166impregnating, parametric recipe for,
3·390Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam,
4·276preserving, parametric recipe for,
3·348puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425Salted Caramel Apple Puree, 5·17, 20smoking, parametric recipe for,
3·362applejack, freeze-concentrating hard
apple cider for, 2·396apricots
Apricot and Jasmine Puree, 5·171, 173
compressing, parametric recipe for, 3·390
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·288, 291
dehydrating, parametric recipe for, 3·366
Hot Apricot Marshmallow, 4·293impregnating, parametric recipe for,
3·390preserving, parametric recipe for,
3·348Aprile, Claudio, 1·70aquarium air pumps and bubblers
foam forming with, 4·258, 260for sous vide cooking, 2·240–241
Arabica co� ee beans, 4·358Archaea, as domain on tree of life, 1·130L’Archestrate, 5·109Archestratos of Gela, Sicily, 1·12architecture
artistic and functional purposes of, 1·76–77
avant-garde, 1·17, 18Arcigola, 1·23Arenós, Pau, 1·37argon gas, wine preservation with,
4·347Arguinzoniz, Victor, smoked dairy
products and, 4·100Aristophanes, 1·12Arnold, David
on agar for clarifying liquids, 2·372Beet Juice-Fed Oysters recipe, 3·206Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil
recipe, 2·367on Fizz-Giz system, 3·207freeze � ltration and, 2·369French fries by, 3·322Parmesan “Polenta” recipe, 4·181
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 58 3/22/11 10:56:31 AM
I N D E X L I X
BACTERIA BArnold, David (continued)
Pectinase-Steeped Fries recipe, 3·324
Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast recipe, 4·97
pressure-cooked stock testing by, 2·87
on unvented pressure-cookers for stocks, 2·292
Arola, Sergi, 1·57Arola Barcelona, 1·57aromas. See also essences, aromatics
Activa bonding and, 3·252of almonds, 3·262co� ee roasting and, 4·361concentrating by evaporation and,
2·380of deep-frying oil, 2·123, 125dry-aging meat and, 3·41of fat in meat and seafood, 3·87–88fat molecules and, 3·18� ning and removal of, 2·360of lute� sk, 3·194Maillard reaction and, 3·89plant food cooking and, 3·278ripening of cured meat or seafood
and, 3·167, 173rotary evaporators and, 2·384, 390of saturated vs. unsaturated oils,
2·126of tru� es, science of, 4·350of vegetables, blanching sous vide
and, 3·293of wine, 4·348–349
aroma kit, technology of, 4·348Aroma: � e Magic of Essential Oils in
Foods and Fragrance (Pa� erson), 2·322Aromatic Alsatian Mustard, 5·35, 37aromatics
converting grams to volumes for, 5·XXXVIII
Maillard reaction and, 2·268seasonal mélanges with, 3·295for stocks, 2·298sublimation in frozen foods of, 2·261
Aronia de Takazawa, 1·70arrowroot, thickening with, parametric
recipe for, 4·28art, revolution in, 1·16–18L’Art de la Cuisine Française aux XIXe
Siècle (Carême, 1833–1834), 1·9, 19� e Art of Cooking (Apicius). See Apiciusartichokes
Artichoke and Potato Chaat, 3·313Artichoke Con� t, 5·171, 172cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·292puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425Sous Vide Artichoke, 5·239, 244
arti� cial � avors, popular perception of, 1·250, 252
arti� cial meat, 3·220. See also sausagesarti� cial sweeteners, organic label for,
1·247Arup, 4·246Arzak (restaurant), 2·450Arzak, Juan Mari
Egg Blossom recipe, 4·78, 80Nouvelle cuisine and individuality
of, 1·28Strawberry Milk Shake recipe, 2·473
Arzak egg blossom, parametric recipe for cooking, 4·78
Asador Etxebarri, 4·100asafetida, seasoning with, 1·11ascariasis, 1·123Ascaris lumbricoides, 1·123ascorbic acid. See vitamin Cash, hardwood charcoal vs. brique� es
and, 2·12Ashenfelter, Orley, 4·328, 329Asian cooking. See also China; Chinese
entries; Japan; Japanese entriesfusion and, 1·29
Asian � sh sauce, 3·195Asian palm civet, Kopi Luwak co� ee
and, 4·360Asian pear chips, parametric recipe for,
3·328Asian restaurants, MSG and, 1·213asparagus
Asparagus Royale, 4·94compressing, parametric recipe for,
3·390cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·289, 292Green Asparagus and Morels with
Asparagus Jus, 2·341impregnating, parametric recipe for,
3·390odor of urine and, 4·350puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425smoking, parametric recipe for,
3·362Sous Vide Green Asparagus, 5·147,
149Sous Vide White Asparagus, 5·147,
149aspics, gelatin for, 4·67aspirator vacuum system. See also rotary
evaporatorsfor concentrating � avor, 2·380,
382–383� ltering with, 2·356for Modernist kitchen, 2·284
astaxanthin, in salmon and trout, 3·93L’Astrance, 1·64Astronaut Ramen plated-dish recipe,
5·247–251astrovirus infections, 1·155Athenaeus, 1·12Atkins diet, 1·242atmospheric pressure
boiling point and, 1·318gauge pressure of pressure canners
and, 2·86–87solubility of gases in water and, 1·333
Au Cacao (Lord Chocolate), Mayan city-state of Tikal, 1·13
Auber Instruments, PID controllers of, 2·240
AustraliaEating Quality Assured system in,
3·39screw tops for wine bo� les in,
4·344–345wine innovation in, 4·331, 332
authentic recipes, Modernist focus on novelty vs., 1·58–60
Autoclaved Onion Soup, 3·302autoclaves
browning starch for roux with, 4·22for extracting and infusing � avors,
2·251for Modernist kitchen, 2·284for plant food cooking, 3·298
autoclaves (continued) prions and, 1·156for sous vide cooking, 2·233, 239sterilization using, 2·250venting before sealing, 2·291
Autumn Harvest Pork Roast plated-dish recipe, 5·17–23
avant-garde art movements, 1·17avocados
Avocado Puree, 5·205, 207seed distribution by, 3·265
Aztecs, gastronomy of, 1·13
BBacillus cereus
food poisoning from spores of, 1·138replication of
limits of, 1·145nisin and, 1·144–145
wine marinade with oregano and, 1·145
baconAgar Carbonara, 4·161Bacon Chip, 5·219, 220Bacon Chips with Bu� erscotch,
Apple, and � yme, 3·189Bacon Dashi, 2·308Bacon Jam, 4·229Bacon Powder Squares, 4·34Braised Bacon, 5·17, 18combi oven cooking of eggs and,
2·174–175convection baking of, 2·110cooked, fats in, 1·233Eggs Benedict, 4·86fat, fa� y acids in, 1·234infusion of, parametric recipe for,
2·310Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino,
4·275Siphoned Sou� é á la Lorraine, 4·297Spaghe� i Carbonara, 3·384USDA on nitrates and nitrites in,
3·160bacon consommé, parametric recipe for,
2·374–375bacteria, 1·130–151. See also speci� c
bacteriaaerobic, 1·130, 135–136
vacuum packing and, 2·208agar as growing medium for, 4·128anaerobic. See anaerobic bacteriacategories of, 1·130characteristics of, 1·130, 132–133chilling food and, 2·254, 257cooking cured meat or seafood and,
3·165death of, 1·148–151
pasteurization and sterilization for, 1·149
thermal death curves of, 1·150–151as foodborne pathogens, 1·108, 113,
135–141Gram-positive or Gram-negative,
1·106growth of, 1·142–147
chemicals as preservatives and, 1·144–145
on dry-aging meat, 3·41limits of, 1·145measuring, terminology of, 1·142modeling, mathematics of, 1·147
infectious, invasive, 1·134–135marinating with, 3·198o� -� avors and taints due to, 1·135quorum sensing, 1·134spoilage and, 1·133–134spores of, 1·136, 138–141stains for identi� cation of, 1·106strains of
naming of, 1·132plasmids and, 1·133
subspecies classi� cation of, 1·132
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 59 3/22/11 10:56:31 AM
L X I N D E X
B BACTOFERM CULTURES
Bactoferm cultures, for fermented sausage, 3·246
bagels, Everything Bagel Broth, 4·130Bàgna Cauda Consommé, 5·229, 230baked Alaska, surprise element in, 1·37Baked Beans, 5·67, 77baked goods. See also breads; cakes
carbon dioxide as foaming gas in, 4·254
as starch-based set foams, 4·245water as secondary foaming gas in,
4·254Baked Potato Broth, 2·309Baked Potato Foam, 4·281, 5·193baker’s percentage, for scaling recipes,
1·95–97baking, 2·100–113
altitude and, 2·113basting and, physics of, 2·103ceramic cookware for, 1·277in combi ovens, 2·168consistent
strategies for, 2·112temperature control and, 2·111
convection. See convection baking; convection ovens
of crust, 2·108deep-frying compared to, 2·116–117derivation of term, 2·101drying stages in, 2·106–108heat � ow simulation in roasting vs.,
2·33humidity and, 2·102ovens for. See combi ovens;
convection ovens; ovens; Rational combi ovens; water-vapor ovens; wood-� red ovens
preheating for, 2·102–103professionalization of, 1·7radiant heat and, 2·110–111real temperature in, 2·103, 106temperature measurement during,
2·108turkey, cutaway illustration of,
2·104–105baking powder, production process for,
1·255baking soda, production process for,
1·255, 256Bakke, Kent, 4·398ball mills, for dry-grinding, 2·401ballistic gelatin, 4·68bamboo shoots
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·289
Wok-Fried Malaysian Vegetables, 5·167, 169
bananasBanana Yogurt, 5·98cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·288, 290freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,
3·372Hot Banana Gel, 4·166ripening of, 3·283
Bancro� , Wilder Dwight, 4·203Bancro� ’s rule, science of, 4·203Bandel, Horst, Rye Bread recipe, 5·59bang-bang controllers, 2·230–231Banyuls Glaze, 5·17, 19bao technique, for stir-frying with woks,
2·54–55
barbecueAmerican-style, 2·143, 148, 3·211,
361regional specialties in, 3·218–219sauces for. See barbecue saucessous vide, 3·216–217
barbecue saucesCentrifuged BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 67, 71East Texas BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 69House BBQ Sauce, 4·49, 5·67Kansas City BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 68Kentucky BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 71Memphis BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 70North Carolina (Eastern Region)
BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 70North Carolina (Lexington-Style)
BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 71South Carolina BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 70
barbecue stall, chemistry of, 3·212Barbecued Eel with Whipped Caramel,
4·283Barbot, Pascal
Eggless Citrus Curd recipe, 4·234Foie Gras and Bu� on Mushroom
Tart recipe, 3·148Modernist cuisine and, 1·64
barding, 3·84Barham, Peter
Blake, Blumenthal and, 1·51Blumenthal and, 1·47, 50books by, 1·44Erice Conferences and, 1·45liquid nitrogen ice cream and,
1·61–62on molecular gastronomy, 1·48
barleypu� ed, parametric recipe for, 4·302Ragout of Grains, 5·125, 129
Barnes, H. M., 3·92Bartolo� a, Paul, 1·69baseball glove cut, from pork shoulder,
3·48, 49Basic Mayonnaise, 4·226, 5·233basting, physics of, 2·103Batali, Armandion, braised ox heart
sandwiches by, 3·142Batali, Mario, Squid Sicilian Lifeguard-
Style recipe, 3·113batch size, consistent baking and, 2·111,
112bathrooms, personal hygiene and, 1·196ba� er-frying
example recipes for, 3·334–337parametric recipe for, 3·332–333
ba� ersbest bets for, 3·333for deep-frying, 2·122, 127for frying, breading vs., 3·316parametric recipe for, 3·333Siphoned Tempura Ba� er, 5·144
bay leaf extract, parametric recipe for, 2·326
Bazaar, 1·67BBQ Caramels, 4·62bean sprouts
preserving, parametric recipe for, 3·348
Squid-Ink Bean-Sprout Riso� o, 3·397
Wok-Fried Malaysian Vegetables, 5·167, 169
beans. See also speci� c types of beans� ours milled from, 3·376pressure-cooking, 3·298water for cooking, 3·276, 278
bear meat, Trichinella and, 1·120, 122, 179
beaver fever, 1·129Beck, Heinz, Nouvelle cuisine and,
1·28–29beech mushrooms
Compressed Dill Pickled Vegetables, 5·55, 58
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·289
French Scrambled Eggs, 4·93beef. See also ca� le; oxtail; steaks
Australian Eating Quality Assured grading system for, 3·39
Beef and Oyster Tartare, 3·66Beef Brisket, 5·67, 79Beef Shank Rille� e, 5·49, 52Beef Short Ribs, 5·67, 79Braised Short Ribs, 5·43, 44Brown Beef Stock, 2·301cold-smoking, parametric recipe for,
3·210Combi Oven Rib Eye, 2·180cooking
boiling steak and, 3·72–75in combi oven, 2·180cooking times for, 1·121FDA Food Code on cooking of
steaks and, 1·174FDA on cooking pork vs. beef and,
1·170–171ideal temperature for, 3·89sous vide, parametric recipes for,
3·96, 109Crispy Beef Strands, 5·43, 44Cured Beef Tenderloin “Bresaola
Style,” 3·185curing, parametric recipe for, 3·172Fast Cured Pepperoni, 3·247FDA Food Code and
on cooking of steaks, 1·174on steaks vs. roasts, 1·187on whole roast, 1·182–183
Frankfurters, 3·242Freeze-Dried Beef Gravy Granules,
2·454freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,
2·451Hanger Steak Tartare, 3·65hot-smoking, parametric recipe for,
3·210innards of. See innardsKalbi Flank Steak, 3·199mad cow disease and, 1·156, 157,
158, 159, 160Microwaved Beef Jerky, 3·184, 5·43muscles in, 3·15, 5·7needled, E. coli outbreak in, 1·176Pot-au-Feu Consommé, 5·49, 52primal cuts of, 3·44Rare Beef Sausage, 3·249Rare Flatiron Steak, 5·49, 50Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard
Marmalade and Porcini, 3·97roast, Maillard reaction and, 3·89Salmonella time and temperature
curve for, 1·187Sous Vide Beef Juice, 2·349Sous Vide Beef Rib Steak, 5·5, 7
beef (continued)tapeworms and, 1·124tenderloin, cooking sous vide, 2·248Wagyu. See Wagyu beefwhole roast, FDA Food Code on,
1·182–183beef cheeks
American Wagyu Beef Cheek, 5·55, 57
Beef Cheek Pastrami, 3·213breeds and, 5·55, 57
beef entrecôte, 1·25beef fat, Frankfurters, 3·242beef � atiron steak, seam cu� ing of, 3·47beef juice
parametric recipe for, 2·344–345Sous Vide Beef Juice, 2·349
beef jusAged Rare Beef Jus, 5·5, 6Beef Tenderloin with Jus de Roti,
4·54parametric recipe for, 2·344–345Sous Vide Rare Beef Jus, 2·349
beef knuckles, Oxtail Pho Broth, 2·307Beef Rib Steak plated-dish recipe, 5·5–9Beef Royal, Blumenthal’s re-creation of,
1·51Beef Shank Rille� e, 5·49, 52Beef Short Ribs, 5·67, 79beef stock, parametric recipe for,
2·296–298beef tallow, chemistry of, 2·126Beef Tenderloin with Jus de Roti, 4·54beef tongue
brining, parametric recipe for, 3·172cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·146beer
Cheddar Soup, 4·225foaming head on, 4·250–251,
254–255, 256freeze concentration of, 2·396Guinness “Pâte de Fruit,” 4·145ice, freeze concentration of, 2·396nucleation sites etched on glass for,
4·251seasoning with, 2·317
beer can chicken, science of, 2·109Beet Flexicurd, 4·219Beet Juice-Fed Oysters, 3·206, 5·233Beet Meringue, 4·295beets
aroma of, 5·182Beet Flexicurd, 4·219Beet Juice-Fed Oysters, 3·206, 5·233Beet Meringue, 4·295Borscht Broth, 5·233, 235cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·289dehydrating, parametric recipe for,
3·366Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and
Hibiscus Glaze, 4·158–159preserving, parametric recipe for,
3·348puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425Sous Vide Baby Beet, 5·181, 183Sous Vide Golden Beets, 5·233, 235
beignetsBeignet of Sauce Ravigote, 5·49, 51Oyster Beignet, 5·25, 28Pork Tro� er Beignet, 5·35, 38Potato Beignets with Caviar, 4·174
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 60 3/22/11 10:56:31 AM
I N D E X L X I
BBOILING POINT
beignets (continued) Zucchini Blossom Beignet, 5·53, 151
Beijing National Aquatics Center, Water Cube at, 4·246
Belgian endive, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·289
bell peppersCompressed Dill Pickled Vegetables,
5·55, 58preserving, parametric recipe for,
3·348Smoked Pepper Puree, 5·55, 57
bentonite � ning, 2·352, 358Berasategui, Martín
on cooking small � sh with crispy skin, 3·130
Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused Milk recipe, 3·103
Modernist cuisine and, 1·57bergamot
Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused Milk, 3·103
Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot Sabayon, 4·274
Berkel, Wilhelm van, 3·44Le Bernardin, 1·73Best Bets. See list of Parametric Recipe
Tables, LVbeta-carotene, health bene� ts of, 1·235beurre blanc
emulsi� ers for, 4·204, 214heat-stable, 4·218
beurre noirBlack Bu� er Emulsion, 5·157, 158how to make, 4·213
beurre noise� e. See also brown bu� er consommé; brown bu� er extract
Brown Bu� er Fumet, 5·157, 158Brown Bu� er-Poached Green Garlic,
5·229, 230how to make, 4·213Passion Fruit Brown Bu� er Fluid
Gel, 5·181, 182Bezzera, Luigi, 4·372bigeye tuna, as alternative to blue� n,
3·55Bilet, Maxime, 1·85Bimbo Bakeries USA, 1·76Bincho-Tan-Grilled Sea Cucumber
Maitake Mushroom, Shisito Pepper, 5·197, 203
Biot, Jean-Baptiste, 2·117Biot number, 2·117Birdseye, Clarence, 1·306–307
food science and, 1·24bis-2-methyl-3-furyl-disul� de, 3·89biscuits, Bu� ermilk Biscuits, 5·67, 77Bismarck, O� o von, 3·220bisphenol A (BPA), plastic storage
containers and, 2·207bit-and-plate grinders, for meat, 3·231,
233bi� ers, 2·320bi� er � avors, 5·226
co� ee brewing and, 4·364black bu� er
Black Bu� er Emulsion, 5·157, 158how to make, 4·213
Black Cod “Frédy Girardet” plated-dish recipe, 5·170–173
Black Olive Oil, 5·193, 195Black Olive Puree, 4·230
black pepper infusion, parametric recipe for, 2·310
Black Sesame Rice Crisps, 4·304black tea infusion, parametric recipe for,
2·310Black Tru� e Concentrate, 2·427, 5·216blackberries
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·290
Sous Vide Berry Juice, 2·340blackbodies
adding cream to co� ee and, 1·289characteristics of, 1·285radiation by, 1·285
charcoal grills and, 2·10–11wavelengths and, 1·287
black-eyed peas, Cucumber Black-Eyed Pea Salad, 5·94
Blackstrap Molasses Country Ham, 3·183
blade tenderizing, 3·51. See also Jaccard tenderizers
Blake, Tonyon aroma compounds from Maillard
reaction, 3·89Blumenthal and, 1·51Erice Conferences and, 1·45
Blanc, Georges, 1·34 Blanc, Raymond
Erice Conferences and, 1·45Nouvelle cuisine in the U.K. and,
1·28blanching
boiling and, 2·63of bones for stock, 2·292browning reaction in plants and,
3·283before cooking, 2·269before deep-frying, 2·125drying with warm air and, 2·433extended and simpli� ed 6D
Salmonella reduction guidelines for, 1·190
food safety and, 1·191of fruits, 2·269of garlic, 5·26hot-packing for canning and, 2·77juice extraction and, 2·239sous vide
best bets for, 3·293how to, 3·293thermophilic pathogens and, 2·206
for sous vide cooking, 2·267with steam, 2·70of vegetables, 2·214, 269water baths and, multiple, 2·247water baths, multiple, and, 2·249
blancmange, Steamed Blancmange, 4·296
Blanque� e de Veau plated-dish recipe, 5·31–33
blast chillerscrisping skin with, 3·123for Modernist kitchen, 2·285pacotizing and, 2·407pros and cons of, 2·255for quick chilling, 1·206, 2·256
blast freezers, 1·307, 310, 2·259bleach and water solution
drying with warm air and, 2·433for kitchen cleansing, 1·200, 204
blenderscommercial
dispersing thickeners with, 4·24for pureeing, 2·400
emulsifying with, 4·206, 208foam forming with, 4·252, 258handheld. See handheld blendersheat generated in, 1·274, 2·398, 4·206household, for pastes, powders, or
purees, 2·400hydration of ion-coagulated gels
with, 4·124hydrocolloid dispersion with, 4·38,
124immersion. See handheld blendersfor Modernist kitchen, 2·287for raw food, 3·269for shearing gels into � uids, 4·176wet-grinding with, 2·412–413for wine, hyperdecanting, 4·343
blogs, Modernist, 1·59–60, 66, 67blonding, of espresso shot, 4·388blood
cooking with, 3·144as sausage binder, 3·223viscosity of, 4·6
blood orangesBlood Orange Foam, 4·272Blood Orange Sabayon, 5·147, 148Spray-Dried Blood Orange Juice,
2·443blood pressure, salt and, 1·234, 236–237blood sausage (pudding)
history of, 3·220parametric recipe for, 3·238–239,
5·239bloodline, in � sh, 3·21, 22Bloom, measure of gel rigidity, 4·68, VBloom, Oscar, 4·68Blossom Salad, 5·171, 172blow torching and blowtorches
a� er sous vide cooking, 2·274–275broiling vs., 2·21for � ash-cooking sushi, 3·61how not to use, 2·21for Modernist kitchen, 2·286
blowing on hot foodphase change and, 1·290physics of, 1·288
Blue Sky Creamery, 1·62–63blueberries, heat-treating, parametric
recipe for, 3·359blue� n tuna
about, 5·176alternatives to, 3·55toro of, from belly, 3·84
Blumenthal, HestonAdrià and, 1·39Aerated Chocolate recipe, 4·313British bangers and, 3·236–237Citrus Spice recipe, 2·404cold gels and, 4·140Crispy Halibut Cheek recipe,
3·334–335critics on, 1·62Cryopoached Dill Meringue recipe,
5·165Cryopoached Green Tea Sour recipe,
4·291on dehydrating fruits and vegetables,
3·366edible � lms used by, 4·60Edible Wrappers recipe, 4·62
Blumenthal, Heston (continued)Erice Conferences and, 1·45, 46, 47Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel recipe, 4·183food science and, 1·49–50freeze � ltration and, 2·369on gazpacho � avor, 5·278Hot and Cold Tea recipe, 4·176, 182Hot Blood Pudding Custard recipe,
4·221Lemon Strips recipe, 4·61liquid nitrogen and, 1·63, 65“mackerel invertebrate” dish by,
3·252Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin
recipe, 4·175“Marmite broth” and, 2·304–305Microwave-Fried Parsley recipe,
3·312Mock Turtle Soup recipe, 2·394norovirus outbreak and, 1·155Onion Fluid Gel recipe, 4·183Passion Fruit Jelly recipe, 4·180as perfectionist and Modernist
enthusiast, 1·50–51Pommes Pont-Neuf recipe, 3·323Potato Puree recipe, 3·296, 297rotary evaporation and, 2·388Salmon Poached in Licorice recipe,
4·155science applied to food by, 1·5, 52stock preparation by, 2·283Tomato Con� t recipe, 5·62Triple-Cooked Chips of, 3·322vacuum-drying by, 2·436
Blumenthal, Michael, 2·123BMI (body mass index), 1·240, 244Bo Innovation, 1·70boar, wild
E. coli O157:H7 outbreak of 2006 and, 1·172
Trichinella and, 1·120, 122Bocuse, Paul, 1·24, 26
sous vide cooking and, 1·42body mass index (BMI), 1·240, 244Boeuf in Gelée, 4·163Boiardi, E� ore, innovations of, 1·21, 31boiling, 2·62–69. See also boiling point;
boiling zone; boiling-water canning; poaching
characteristics of, 1·315, 317–319cutaway illustration of, 2·64–65“� xing” color with, chemistry of,
2·63, 66� ash, 1·317Giardia oocysts and, 1·129heat transfer with, 2·63of liquid nitrogen, science of, 2·457under pressure, 2·295pressure cooking and, 2·291rolling, blanching using steam vs.,
2·267stages of physics of, 1·316of steak, 3·72–75steaming vs., 1·319, 2·70, 72–73thick or thin sauces and, 2·68–69vacuum packing and, 2·213, 215of water, hydrogen bonds and, 1·298water temperature and, 1·318
boiling pointelevation of, 1·318in phase diagrams, 1·302–303vacuum pressure for water or ethanol
vs., 2·391
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 61 3/22/11 10:56:32 AM
L X I I I N D E X
BOILING POINTBboiling point (continued)
of waterrelative humidity and, 2·163vacuum pressure vs., 2·391
boiling zonebaking and, 2·107–108convection baking and, 2·110in steak frying, 3·75
boiling-water canning, 2·76–83cutaway illustration of, 2·82–83food acidity issues in, 2·76packing food in canning jars for, 2·78raw packing or hot-packing, 2·77sterilization and, 2·76sterilizing acidic canned foods for,
2·81USDA guidelines for, 2·79–80
bok choy, Sichuan Bok Choy, 3·313Boltzmann, Ludwig, 1·265Bond’s law, 2·401Bone Marrow Custard, 5·60, 63bones
blanching, for stock, 2·292cooking of, 3·143–144sous vide cooking and, 2·207for stocks, 2·288
bonito, Quinoa and Idiazábal with Bonito Stock Veil, 4·168
Bonnefons, Nicolas de, 1·9, 19books, water-soaked, freeze-drying for
conservation of, 2·444Bordeaux, France
microoxygenation by winemakers in, 4·331
Napoleon III on classi� cation of wines from, 4·331–332
wine storage in, 4·346Bordeaux Equation, science of, 4·328Boring, Edwin, 4·341Borscht Broth, 5·233, 235Bose-Einstein condensate, 1·301Bosse, Chris, 4·246bo� arga. See also caviar; � sh roe
Sea Urchin Bo� arga, 3·186, 5·225, 226
bo� le size, wine storage and, 4·346bo� led water, as pure water, 1·335bo� omless porta� lters, 4·385. See also
crotchless porta� ltersBo� ura, Massimo, 1·70botulism
common misconceptions about, 1·118
food poisoning from spores and, 1·138–139
nitrates or nitrites as protection from, 3·165
sous vide cooking and, 2·206boudin blanc
Boudin Blanc, 3·243parametric recipe for, 3·238–239
Boudin Noir Bread Pudding, 5·125, 127Boudin Noir Custard, 5·125, 127Bouillabaisse Broth, 2·308Bouley, David
on Modernist cuisine in Spain, 1·57New International cuisine and, 1·30Oxtail Consommé and, 2·376
Boulud, DanielBoeuf in Gelée and, 4·163hamburger and, 5·11on McGee’s On Food and Cooking, 1·44New International cuisine and, 1·30
bound water, dehydration and, 1·321boundary layer
convection cooking and, 1·283, 2·108, 110
drying and, 2·431evaporation and, 1·288
bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE), 1·156, 157–159, 160
bowl choppers, 3·233. See also Bu� alo choppers
BPA (bisphenol A), plastic storage containers and, 2·207
Bradbury, Ray, 2·137Bradley smokers, 2·147Brahman ca� le, calpastatin in Wagyu
beef vs., 3·76brain, prion diseases and, 1·156–157Braised Bacon, 5·17, 18Braised Lamb Shoulder, 5·81, 83Braised Napa Cabbage, 5·109, 111Braised Pine Nuts with Winter Squash,
5·60, 65Braised Sauerkraut, 5·35, 39Braised Short Ribs, 5·43, 44Braised Short Ribs plated-dish recipe,
5·42–47Braised Turnips with Sa� ron, 5·121, 123Braised Veal Foreshank, 5·60, 62braising
aging and, chemistry of, 2·98derivation of term, 2·93holding at speci� c temperature in,
2·247of meat, how to, 2·99pot-roasting or stewing vs., 2·93stewing as, 2·96–98
Bras, MichelAdrià and, 1·34Black Olive Oil recipe, 5·195chocolate cake with liquid center by,
1·15Le Gargouillou recipe, 1·40, 3·294–295garlic mayonnaise of, 4·226Licorice Powder recipe, 2·405liquid nitrogen and, 1·62, 65Molasses Bu� er recipe, 2·331Nouvelle cuisine and individuality
of, 1·27, 39–40So� -Boiled Egg and Garlic Emulsion
recipe, 4·227sous vide cooking and, 1·42
bratwurst, parametric recipe for, 3·238–239
Bratzler, L. J., 3·77bread crumbs
in sausage, 3·226as thickening agent, 4·12
bread pudding, Boudin Noir Bread Pudding, 5·125, 127
breadingexample recipes for, 3·340–343for frying
ba� ers vs., 3·316of gizzards, 3·142
parametric recipe for, 3·338–339pork-rind, 3·122–123sieving particles for, 2·353skin as, 3·118
breads. See also bread crumbs; briocheCorn Bread, 5·67, 76at elBulli, Adrià on, 1·34–35gel-like properties of, 3·376Hamburger Buns, 5·11, 13
breads (continued) historical development of, 1·7Moroccan Batbout Flat Bread, 5·135,
139New American cuisine and, 1·28–29parathas as, 5·92Rye Bread, 5·55, 59stale
chemistry of rescuing, 1·320starch granules and, 3·280
as starch-based set foam, 4·245water as secondary foaming gas in,
4·254white, industrial production of,
4·252, 254� e Breakfast Egg plated-dish recipe,
5·211–213breakfast-style sausage, parametric
recipe for, 3·236–237breast cancer, red meat and, 1·220Bre� anomyces (bre� ), wine aroma and,
4·350brevis mortis, slaughter and, 3·32brewing
of co� ee, 4·364, 366–370control chart for, how to use,
4·366–367of espresso, choosing temperature
for, 4·385by hunter-gatherers, 1·6professionalization of, 1·7
Brillat-Savarin, Jean Anthelme, 1·9brines. See also brining
basic, parametric recipe for, 3·168best bets for, 3·168parametric recipe for, 3·168–172reusing, food safety and, 3·164
brining, 3·152–158accelerating
how to, 3·174–175strategies for, 3·166–167
acidic marinades vs., 3·193best bets for, 3·168, 172color of meat and, 5·102equilibrium method for, 3·158
how to, 3·170–171functional ingredients for, 3·155goal for, 3·154high-concentration method for,
3·171Maillard reaction and, 3·91with other salts, chemistry of, 3·157process of, 3·152, 156, 158time and salt concentration for,
3·154of vegetables with salt, 3·346
briocheBrioche Toast, 5·219, 221Caesar Salad, 3·373Country Bread Crisps, 5·85, 86
brique� es, hardwood charcoal vs., 2·12British Airways, sous vide cooking and,
1·41British bangers, parametric recipe for,
3·236–237British thermal units (BTUs)
calculating grill power using, 2·10de� nition of, 1·272for wok burners, 2·52
bri� leness, gel selection and, 4·73broccoli
Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil Puree, 2·426
broccoli (continued)Combi Oven-Steamed Broccoli,
2·181puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425steamed in combi oven, 2·181
La Broche, 1·57Brochet, Frédéric, 4·334–335, 340Brock, Sean
food inspectors and, 1·83Modernist cuisine and, 1·67Shrimp and Grits recipe, 3·377
Broiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier Bu� er, 4·220
broilersfor � ash-cooking sushi, 3·61for Modernist kitchen, 2·287portable, how not to use blowtorch
as, 2·21radiant heat from, 1·277, 284, 285rules of thumb for, 2·18–20sweet zone of, calculating, 2·22–23types and features of, 2·20–22
broiling, 2·18–27a� er cooking sous vide, 2·272–273equipment for, 2·20–22. See also
broilersGirardet method for poaching and,
2·24–25heat intensity and, 2·22–23pizzas, 2·26–27rules of thumb for, 2·18–20
bromelain, 2·335, 3·195, 5·6bromophenols, 3·88broths
Bacon Dashi, 2·308Baked Potato Broth, 2·309Borscht Broth, 5·233, 235Bouillabaisse Broth, 2·308concentrating � avor of, 2·379, 380Cured Ham Broth, 5·81, 84Duck Broth with Vanilla and Bay
Leaf, 5·109, 110example recipes for, 2·303–309,
5·197freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,
2·451Goulash Broth, 5·55, 56Ham Broth, 2·306Hon Dashi, 2·306, 5·197Laksa Broth, 2·307Mushroom Broth, 5·11, 14Oxtail Pho Broth, 2·307parametric recipe for, 2·304–305Tom Yum Broth, 2·309vacuum � ltering of, 2·354
Brown, Robert, 1·265Brown Beef Stock, 2·301brown bu� er
Brown Bu� er Fumet, 5·157, 158Brown Bu� er-Poached Green Garlic,
5·229, 230how to make, 4·213Passion Fruit Brown Bu� er Fluid
Gel, 5·181, 182brown bu� er consommé, parametric
recipe for, 2·374–375brown bu� er extract, parametric recipe
for, 2·326brown chicken jus, parametric recipe
for, 2·344–345Brown Veal Stock, 2·300Brownian motion, 1·265
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 62 3/22/11 10:56:32 AM
I N D E X L X I I I
CARAMELIZED CARROT SOUP Cbrowning
in combi oven, convection mode for, 2·168
microwave ovens and, 2·189modern methods of braising and, 2·98
browning reaction, 3·89. See also Maillard reaction
in plant foods, 3·283in plant juices, 2·338
Brugués, Salvador, 1·58Bruni, Frank, 1·63Brussels sprouts, Deep-Fried Brussels
Sprouts, 3·321BSE. See bovine spongiform
encephalopathyBTUs (British thermal units)
calculating grill power using, 2·10de� nition of, 1·272for wok burners, 2·52
bubblers, aquariumfoam forming with, 4·258, 260for sous vide cooking, 2·240–241
bubblesbest bets for, 4·264boiling water and, 1·315, 317–318example recipes for, 4·267–269as gas released from heating water,
4·252geometry of, 4·246parametric recipe for, 4·264in steamed milk for espresso, 4·392steaming and, 2·71for thickening, 4·19in whipped cream, 4·256
Büchi Labortechnik, 2·386–387, 391Büchner, Ernst, 2·354Büchner funnel, 2·354, 356Buckwheat Dough, 5·233, 234buckwheat pasta, parametric recipe for,
3·381Buckwheat Pelmeni, 5·233, 237Buddha’s hand citron
Buddha’s Hand Vodka, 2·389cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·291distillation of, 2·388
Bu� alo choppers, for emulsifying sausage, 3·225, 230, 233
bu� ering, 2·315Bulgogi Glaze, 5·285, 287bulk phase, in emulsions. See
continuous phasebulking agents, spray-dried powders
and, 2·442Buon Vino pressure � lters
characteristics of, 2·358clarifying juice with, how to, 2·355
Burke, Sam Fahey, sour rhubarb sorbet and, 5·277
Burki� , Denis P., 1·214–215, 218Burki� ’s lymphoma, 1·214Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa, 4·121burners
choosing, 2·41–43conduction and, 1·277gas, 1·274for griddles, 2·40–41induction, 1·274for panfrying, 2·41–43for stir-frying, 2·48, 52, 56–57wok, 2·52, 56–57, 287
burr grindersdry-grinding with, 2·401–402
burr grinders (continued)quality of, co� ee grind and, 4·378technology of, 4·376
butchering, 3·44–50dissecting pork shoulder a� er,
3·48–49seam cu� ing and, 3·45–47slicing and, 3·47, 50
bu� er. See also bu� erscarotenoid pigments and, 3·92clari� ed
browned solids from, 4·212how to make, 4·213
emulsions and, 4·218–220as foaming agent, 4·251for froths, parametric recipe for,
4·264health risks of margarine vs., 1·231Hot Bu� er Foam, 4·283organic food movement perception
of, 1·253smoked, parametric recipe for, 4·100as so� foam, 4·247
bu� er extract, parametric recipe for, 2·326
bu� erfat, separating from cream, 2·366, 368
bu� er� y � llet, of � sh, 3·52bu� ermilk
Bu� ermilk Biscuits, 5·67, 77for marinating, 3·198parametric recipe for, 4·56Spray-Dried Bu� ermilk, 2·443
bu� ernut squashBraised Pine Nuts with Winter
Squash, 5·60, 65cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·289freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,
3·372Pickled Bu� ernut Squash, 5·60, 64Squash Glaze, 5·60, 63
bu� ersbeurre blanc and. See beurre blancblack. See black bu� erBroiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier
Bu� er, 4·220brown. See brown bu� erCentrifuged Carotene Bu� er, 2·365,
5·185Co� ee Bu� er, 5·211, 212Condrieu Bu� er, 5·171, 172Marcona Almond Bu� er Paste,
5·281, 282Molasses Bu� er, 2·331Passion Fruit Brown Bu� er Fluid
Gel, 5·181, 182Sea Urchin Bu� er, 5·225, 227Shell� sh Bu� er, 2·329Ultrastable Beurre Blanc, 4·219Whipped Bu� er, 4·286
bu� on mushroomsBoudin Blanc, 3·243Foie Gras and Bu� on Mushroom
Tart, 3·148
Ccabbage. See also green cabbage; Napa
cabbage; red cabbage; sauerkraut; savoy cabbage; white cabbage
dehydrating, parametric recipe for, 3·366
preserving, parametric recipe for, 3·348
Caesar Salad, 3·373café au lait, 4·393ca� è breve, 4·393ca� è crema, 4·379ca� è la� e
as art form, 4·391–393composition of, 4·393milk foam in, 4·244pa� erns in, how to make, 4·394–395
ca� è mocha, 4·393ca� eine
in deca� einated co� ee, 4·363digestion of, 4·363
cakeschocolate, with liquid center,
evolution of, 1·15–16Green Tea Cake, 4·292Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake,
4·294Le Calandre, 1·70calcium
in selected foods, 4·VIIsources of, for ion-coagulation, 4·129
calcium chloridein blanching water, 2·125for brining or curing, 3·157, 158meat marinade containing, 3·76, 198product guide for, 4·II–IIIas salt, 4·126
calcium gluconatefor cold gels, parametric recipe for,
4·140product guide for, 4·II–III
calcium ionsas hydrocolloid coagulant, 4·70, 126spheri� cation and, 4·184
calcium lactateproduct guide for, 4·II–IIIfor spheri� cation, parametric recipe
for, 4·187California
State Fair wine competition in, 4·338–339
wine innovation in, 4·331, 332California Department of Health
Services, E. coli O157:H7 outbreak of 2006 and, 1·172
calories, 1·272calpains
aging meats and, 3·39meat tenderness and, 3·76reaction rates of, temperature and,
3·78yogurt or bu� ermilk marinades and,
3·198calpastatin, meat tenderness and, 3·76Cameroon, carbon dioxide eruption
from Lake Nyos in, 2·466campylobacter, 1·117Campylobacter jejuni, 1·134, 145Can Fabes, 1·63, 258. See also
Santamaria, Santi
can openers, invention of, 2·75Canadian bacon, Eggs Benedict, 4·86Canard Apicius, 5·121cancer. See also carcinogens
of breast, red meat and, 1·220colorectal, dietary � ber and,
1·214–217International Agency for Research
on Cancer and, 1·220Candied Orange and Carrot Pulao, 5·94Candied Pu� ed Oats, 5·125, 128candlenuts, Roasted Candlenuts, 5·175,
177candling, for anisakid detection, 1·123candying fruits, with sugar, 3·346cannibalism, kuru and, 1·159canning, 2·74–91
anaerobic bacteria and, 1·136, 138boiling-water method of. See boiling-
water canningfrigi-canning and, 2·84–85of ham, 1·21heating requirements and duration
for, 2·79history of, 2·75how to pack food in jars for, 2·78packaging with care for, 2·77of plant foods, 3·344with pressure. See pressure-canningsous vide and, 2·204–205
canning industry, bacteria reduction standards of, 1·148
canola oil, chemistry of, 2·126cantaloupes
Compressed Melon Terrine, 3·392cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·288Cantonese Fried Rice, 2·176–177Cantu, Homaro
on carbonated grapes, 2·469edible � lms of, 4·60edible � lms used by, 4·60Modernist cuisine and, 1·67patents applied for, 1·71, 72on Postmodern cuisine, 1·57on shucking oysters with liquid
nitrogen, 2·458Tro� er and, 1·69
Capel, José Carlos, 1·59Caper Droplets, 5·157, 159Caplan, Frieda, 1·15capon broth, parametric recipe for,
2·304–305cappuccino
Cappuccino Foam, 4·266composition of, 4·393how to make pa� erns in, 4·394–395Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino,
4·275perfect pour for, 4·392steaming milk for, 4·391
capsaicinbiology of, 3·271hotness perception and, 3·270purging bivalves and, 5·231
capsids, of viruses, 1·152capsule systems, for espresso,
technology of, 4·400caramelization
covered sautéing and, 2·58pressure-cooking and, 3·298smoking and, 2·135
Caramelized Carrot Soup, 3·301
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 63 3/22/11 10:56:32 AM
L X I V I N D E X
CARAMELIZED COCONUT CREAMCCaramelized Coconut Cream, 4·50Caramelized Crème Fraîche, 5·25, 28Carasso, Daniel, 1·20–21carbohydrates
diets low in, 1·242in fermented sausage, 3·246
carbon dioxide (CO2)for carbonating drinks, 1·334, 4·254chemical formula for, 2·464co� ee roasting and, 4·358containers and, air in head space of,
2·464crema on espresso and, 4·384critical point for, 1·328digestion of, 2·464as dry ice, 2·458, 464. See also dry iceeruption of Lake Nyos, Cameroon
and, 2·466as foaming gas, 4·254–255solubility in water, 1·330, 332, 4·243supercritical, deca� einated co� ee
and, 4·363supercritical � uid extraction and,
2·320taste of, 4·256triple point for, 1·328tru� es and, preserving freshness
with, 2·470for whipping siphons, 4·256
carbon � ltration, for purifying water, 1·335
carbon monoxide (CO), to bloom myoglobin in meat, 3·95
carbonated drinks, carbon dioxide for, 1·334, 4·254
Carbonated Golden Raisins, 5·157, 159Carbonated Mojito Spheres, 4·188carbonation
characteristics of, 4·464equipment for, 2·286example recipes for, 2·472–473, 5·11� zziness taste and, science of, 2·465of fruit, 1·69, 2·469, 472of liquids
pacotizing and, 2·407techniques for, 2·464temperature and, 2·464tips for, 2·468
Perlini system for, 4·347physics of, 1·334taste, science of, 2·465wine pairing and, 4·352
carbonyls, in smoking wood, 2·135, 3·211
carboxyl methylcellulose (CMC)interactions with other thickeners,
4·44–45product guide for, 4·IV–Vproperties and uses of, 4·42–43
carcinogensfood additives as, 1·252grilled meat and � sh and, 1·220in smoke, liquid smoke for avoiding,
2·149smoked food and, 2·143
Carême, Antoninaspics of, 4·68as chef to French ruling class, 1·8, 9culinary rules and codes of, 1·5French cuisine and, 1·19innovations of, 1·20meat embedded in gelatin by, 3·250
Carl G. Sontheimer Prize for Excellence in Innovation and Creativity in Design, at M.I.T., 2·412
Carlson, Michael, 1·69Carmona, John Paul, Beef Cheek
Pastrami recipe, 3·213carotenoid pigments, 3·30, 92, 93carrageenan
dairy gel formation with, 4·102as emulsion stabilizer, 4·215as foam stabilizer, 4·257in heavy cream, 4·102iota. See iota carrageenankappa. See kappa carrageenanlambda. See lambda carrageenannatural sources for, 1·253product guide for, 4·II–IIIproduction process for, 1·257spheri� cation using, 4·184uses of, 4·128
Carrot and Dill Fricassee, 5·161, 164carrot chips, parametric recipe for,
3·328carrot tops, Microwave-Fried Parsley
and Carrot Tops, 5·49, 53carrots
bene� ts of cooking, 3·267Candied Orange and Carrot Pulao,
5·94Caramelized Carrot Soup, 3·301Carrot and Dill Fricassee, 5·161, 164Centrifuged Carotene Bu� er, 2·365,
5·185cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·289, 292Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam, 4·300freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,
3·372Glazed Carrot, 5·185, 186Glazed White Carrot, 5·31, 32Nukazuke, 3·354preserving, parametric recipe for,
3·348puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425Root Vegetable Riso� o, 3·309Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 5·49, 53
Carsberg, Sco� Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade
recipe, 4·169Pecorino with Tru� e Honey on
Cedar recipe, 4·101carvacrol, as antimicrobial compound,
1·145case-control studies, of nutrition, 1·220case-hardening, as form of drying,
2·428casein
as � ning agent, 2·360in homogenized cream, 2·360, 368as surfactant, 4·202
cashewsCashew Halvah, 5·93Green Mango and Cashew Salad,
5·167, 169casing, sausage, 3·226, 227cassava
� our milled from, 3·376toxins in, 3·262Vegetable Coals, 3·395
Cassoulet Toulousain (Autumn) plated-dish recipe, 5·81–84
Cassoulet Toulousain (Spring) plated-dish recipe, 5·85–87
cast iron cookware, 1·278, 280cats
spongiform encephalopathy of, 1·159Toxoplasma gondii and, 1·126–127
catalysis, 2·20catalysts, 2·21, 335catalytic gas broilers, 2·20–21Catching Fire: How Cooking Made Us
Human (Wrangham), 1·6, 3·269cathepsins, 3·39, 76, 78ca� le. See also beef; oxtail; veal
E. coli O157:H7 andtransmission of, 1·118–119, 172vaccinations for, 1·145
prion diseases in, 1·158scrapie in, 1·158sheep liver � uke and, 1·123tapeworms and, 1·124
cauli� owerCauli� ower Couscous, 3·388Cauli� ower Crème Anglaise, 4·89Cauli� ower Foam, 5·281, 283Cauli� ower Panna Co� a, 4·142Deep-Fried Cauli� ower, 5·281, 283dehydrating, parametric recipe for,
3·366preserving, parametric recipe for,
3·348puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425
Cava wine, Oysters with Cava Foam, 4·277
caviarcold-smoking, parametric recipe for,
3·210Melon Caviar, 4·189Potato Beignets with Caviar, 4·174
cavitationcollapse, in boiling, 1·317by high-pressure homogenizers,
2·414, 415CDC. See U.S. Centers for Disease
Control and PreventionCDS/NPOS notation system for
cooking, 1·47, 48celebrity chefs, 1·19, 50, 60. See also
individual chefs’ namesNew American cuisine and, 1·29New International cuisine and, 1·31Nouvelle cuisine and, 1·26
celery, compressing and impregnating, parametric recipe for, 3·390
celery rootCelery Root Mousseline, 2·427,
5·126cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·289Pickled Celery Root, 5·126, 133puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425Root Vegetable Jus, 5·161, 163Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 5·49, 53
celery root chips, parametric recipe for, 3·328
Celery Root Mousseline, 2·427, 5·126celiac disease, gluten intolerance and,
1·239El Celler de Can Roca, 1·58cellulose
gels not formed from, 4·124for low-fat sausage tenderness,
3·224cellulose gum LV, thickening with,
parametric recipe for, 4·46, 47
cellulose gumsdispersion and hydration of, 4·127gelling agents from, 4·126parametric recipe for, 4·170–171properties and applications of, 4·170
cellulose-based hydrocolloids, as thickeners, 4·19
Celsius, Anders, 1·266Celsius temperature scale, 1·266, 285Centers for Disease Control and
Prevention. See U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
centipoise (cP), 4·6Centre de Recherche et d’Études pour
l’Alimentation (CREA), 1·43centrifugal-style juicers, 2·332, 334Centrifuged BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 67, 71Centrifuged Carotene Bu� er, 2·365,
5·185Centrifuged Pea Juice, 2·367Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil,
2·367centrifuges, 2·360–368
balancing, how to, 2·363for cholesterol tests, 1·226–227for � ltering, 2·351, 352, 360, 368Genevac Rocket Evaporator as,
2·391–395for Modernist kitchen, 2·284safety of, 2·361separating bu� erfat from cream
with, 2·366for separating emulsions, 4·210, 212separating liquids with, 2·364types of, 2·362
centrifuging, example recipes for, 2·365–367, 5·5, 60, 185
century eggCentury Egg, 4·83parametric recipe for, 4·82
cephalopods. See also octopus; squidbiology of, 3·24
ceramic cookware, conductivity and, 1·277
ceramic plates, in gas grills, 2·11Certi� ed Angus Beef, 3·39cestodes
contamination by, 1·120destruction of, 1·123types of, 1·124
cevicheacidic marinades for, 3·193, 194Fluke Ceviche, 3·203
CFUs (colony-forming units), 1·142CGS (centimeter, gram, second) units,
1·272Chaat Masala, 5·281, 282chamber sealers, 2·214–221. See also
vacuum chambersadvantages of, 2·214boiling inside, damage and, 2·215common problems with, 2·220–221gas-� ushing, tru� e storage with,
2·471impulse sealers and, 2·225for Modernist kitchen, 2·284optional features of, 2·216–217for plant food cooking, 3·286vacuum packing with, 2·209, 218,
219Chamberlin, Walter, 1·60
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 64 3/22/11 10:56:33 AM
I N D E X L X V
CHOCOLATE WATER CChampagne
Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel, 4·183foaming head on, 4·254nucleation sites etched on glass for,
4·251storage of, 4·346, 347, 348
“Champagne grapes,” Cantu on, 2·469Champion-style juicers, 2·332, 334Chang, David
Bacon Dashi recipe, 2·308Deep-Fried Brussels Sprouts recipe,
3·321Kimchi recipe, 3·352Shaved Foie Gras recipe, 3·177Uni with Whipped Tofu and Tapioca
recipe, 4·285Chantecler, 1·34chanterelles, Mushroom Puree, 5·215,
216chao technique, for stir-frying, 2·54,
56–57Chapel, Alain
Pigeon with Shell� sh Bu� er recipe, 3·100
pot-au-feu of, 5·49Chaptal, Jean-Antoine, 4·330chaptalization, in viticulture, 4·330, 332charcoal. See also coals; prune coals
vs. brique� es for grilling, 2·12as � ning agent, 2·360vs. gas for grilling, 2·10–11making, 2·134vs. wood for grilling, 2·7
charcoal grillscontrolling heat in, 2·14gas grills vs., 2·10–11
chard stems, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·289
Chardonnay, genetic origins of, 4·327–328
Charpentier, Georges, 1·19Charred Leek Oil, 5·17, 18Château Cordeillan-Bages, 1·63chawanmushi
Chawanmushi, 4·96description of, 4·96parametric recipe for, 4·92
cheddar cheese� e American Cheese Slice, 4·224Cheddar Soup, 4·225Cheese Pu� s, 4·305Frozen Cheddar-Cheese Powder,
2·411Mac and Cheese, 3·387
Cheddar Soup, 4·225cheese. See also speci� c types of cheese
constructed, best bets for, 4·223as dairy gel, 4·102–123emulsions and, 4·218, 222–225FDA Food Code on milk
pasteurization for, 1·185Fresh Cheese Curds, 4·106processed, history of, 4·222raw milk
French vs. U.S. standards on, 1·171, 173
safe cooking standards for, 1·170smoked, parametric recipe for, 4·100spoiled, risks of, 1·139
cheese fondue, parametric recipe for, 4·223
Cheese in a Tube, 4·225Cheese Pu� s, 4·305
cheese sauce, parametric recipe for, 4·223
cheese slices, parametric recipe for, 4·223
cheese soup, parametric recipe for, 4·223
cheese spread, parametric recipe for, 4·223
cheese trolley, 1·25, 35cheesecloth, for � ltering, 2·351Cheesy “Whiz,” 4·225Chef Boy-ar-Dee canned goods, 1·21chefs, celebrity, 1·19, 50, 60. See also
individual chefs’ namesNew American cuisine and, 1·29New International cuisine and, 1·31Nouvelle cuisine and, 1·26
chefs, professional. See also individual chefs’ names
cooking by amateur chefs vs., 1·87–88
copying dishes and, 1·71early civilization and development
of, 1·7–8hygiene accessories for, 1·202–203recipes inspired by or adapted from,
1·100–101Chemex co� ee brewer, 4·369chemicals
for food preservation, 1·144–145in foods, 1·250juicing citrus fruits and, 2·332kitchen, common, 4·VIprions and, 1·156in smoking, 2·140
cherriesCherry Vinaigre� e, 5·267, 270cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·288Dried Cherry and Hazelnut
Nougatine, 5·267, 270Foie Gras Cherries, 4·153, 5·267,
268, 269Pickled Bing Cherry, 5·267, 268preserving, parametric recipe for,
3·348Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard
Marmalade and Porcini, 3·97cherries (co� ee plant fruit), 4·358Cherry Vinaigre� e, 5·267, 270chestnuts
Chestnut Con� t, 5·17, 18Chestnut Cream, 5·17, 21Chestnut Pu� s, 5·17, 20–21cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·291, 292Chevalier-Appert, Raymond, 2·75Chez Panisse, 1·28Chez Panisse Menu Cookbook (Waters),
1·28–29Chicago, as Modernist mecca, 1·69chicharrones, water as foaming gas for,
4·254chicken
aging, 3·41beer can roasting of, 2·109Boudin Blanc, 3·243breeding for white meat, 2·120brining, parametric recipe for, 3·172Chicken Tikka Masala, 3·204Chilled Chicken-Noodle Soup,
4·238
chicken (continued)cold-smoking, parametric recipe for,
3·210� e Colonel’s Chicken, 3·336cooking
sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·99, 108
times for, 1·180, 181Crisp Chicken Crown, 5·113, 116“danger zone” temperatures and,
1·176, 177, 178–179deep-frying, high-pressure,
2·120–121fast-twitch vs. slow-twitch muscle in,
3·12FDA safe cooking standards for,
1·170food safety misconceptions about,
1·180–181Fried Chicken Sausage, 3·249Gong Bao Chicken, 3·205Hay-Smoked Chicken Crown, 5·113,
114–115hot-smoking, parametric recipe for,
3·210Low-Fat Chicken Sausage, 3·248meat color of duck vs., 3·16–17Modernist Fried Chicken, 3·337Poulet au Feu d’Enfer, 3·100Pressure-Cooked White Chicken
Stock, 2·301primal cuts of, 3·44program cooking in combi oven,
2·169roast, combi oven cooking of,
2·178–179Salmonella and, 1·180–181Ultracrisp Chicken Crown,
3·134–135Yakitori, 3·201
chicken fatBoudin Blanc, 3·243chemistry of, 2·126Fried Chicken Sausage, 3·249Low-Fat Chicken Sausage, 3·248
chicken feet, Pu� ed Chicken Feet, 3·133
chicken gizzard, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·146
chicken juice, parametric recipe for, 2·344–345
chicken skincooking methods for, 3·120–121Crisp Chicken Crown, 5·113, 116crisping by loosening, 3·123crispy cooking sous vide of, 3·131
chicken stock, parametric recipe for, 2·296–298
Chicken Tikka Masala, 3·204chickpeas
Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa, 4·121
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·292
pu� ed, parametric recipe for, 4·302Pu� ed Chickpea Salad, 5·135, 138Pu� ed Chickpeas, 4·307
Child, Julia, 1·26, 83on sole meunière, 3·40
Children’s Hospital, Oakland, California, 1·230
Chile, wine innovation in, 4·332
chili extract, parametric recipe for, 2·326
chili pepperscapsaicin in, 3·271Chili Pearls, 4·145Chili Tomato Spice Blend, 2·403choosing, 3·271dry, converting grams to volumes
for, 5·XXXVIIIinfusion of, parametric recipe for,
2·310Piquillo Pepper and Strawberry
Salad, 5·277, 278preserving, parametric recipe for,
3·348rating, science of, 3·270Romesco Sauce, 2·419Spiced Chili Oil, 2·330
Chilled Chicken-Noodle Soup, 4·238chilling. See also chilling water baths;
cook-chill sous vide methods; freezing; refrigeration; refrigerators
of a carcass, 3·35food safety and quality and, 2·252,
254, 256in sous vide cooking, 2·242strategies for, 2·255
chilling water bathsfor Modernist kitchen, 2·285physics of not halting cooking with,
2·254technology of, 2·238
chimneys, air � ow up, 2·7China
aristocratic food in, 1·8fermented meats in, 3·246tradition and evolving cuisine of,
1·15Chinese artichokes, cooking sous vide,
parametric recipe for, 3·292Chinese banquet stock, parametric
recipe for, 2·296–297Chinese everyday stock, parametric
recipe for, 2·296–297Chinese ginger soy � sh broth,
parametric recipe for, 2·304–305Chinese restaurant headache, MSG
and, 1·213chinois, cone-shaped, 2·351chips. See also fruit chips; vegetable
chipsdehydrating formula for, 3·367
chives, freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, 3·372
chlorine, in municipal water, 1·335chlorophyll
in green vegetables, 2·267hard water and, 3·278
chlorophyllase, 2·267chocolate
Aerated Chocolate, 4·313Chocolate Chantilly, 4·281conching of, 2·404foam bars, forming, 4·254Mayans and, 1·13melted, solidi� ed to frozen set foam,
4·247chocolate cake with liquid center,
evolution of, 1·15–16chocolate milk, as colloidal suspension,
4·176chocolate water, parametric recipe for,
2·374–375
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 65 3/22/11 10:56:33 AM
L X V I I N D E X
CHOLESTEROLCcholesterol
characteristics of, 1·224dietary fat and, 1·222, 224–227health risks with low levels of, 1·226heart disease and, 1·227weight loss diets and, 1·242
chopping, tools for, 3·230–233chorizo
Chorizo Crisp, 5·193, 194Chorizo French Toast, 4·98–99Frozen Chorizo Powder, 5·193, 194parametric recipe for, 3·244–245Passion Fruit Marshmallow with
Chorizo Powder, 4·290Choucroute Royale plated-dish recipe,
5·35–39chronic wasting disease (CWD), 1·159chufa milk
Horchata (Chufa Milk), 4·59parametric recipe for, 4·56
chufa nutsabout, 5·244Horchata (Chufa Milk), 4·59Horchata Foam, 5·239, 244
chymosin, as gel coagulant, 4·70cinnamon cap mushrooms, Preserved
Cinnamon Cap Mushroom, 5·219, 220cinnamon extract, parametric recipe
for, 2·326cinnamon infusion, parametric recipe
for, 2·310Cinnamon-Scented Pea Juice, 5·273,
275cipolline onions, Sweet-and-Sour
Cipolline Onions, 5·17, 19circulating water baths, 2·232,
234–235, 237citric acid
as acidi� er, 2·314for cold gels, parametric recipe for,
4·140for sausage, 3·227
citron, Buddha’s handBuddha’s Hand Vodka, 2·389cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·291distillation of, 2·388
Citrus Air, 4·265citrus extract, parametric recipe for,
2·326citrus fruits. See also speci� c � uits
dehydrating, parametric recipe for, 3·366
heat-treating, parametric recipe for, 3·359
juice of, as acidi� er, 2·314, 315preserving, parametric recipe for,
3·348citrus oil, washing, how to, 2·321citrus press, 2·332, 335Citrus Spice, 2·404city roast stage, of co� ee, 4·362civet, Asian palm, Kopi Luwak co� ee
and, 4·360civilization, de� nition of, 1·7CJD (Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease),
1·157–159, 160clams
biology of, 3·26, 27Clam Juice, 5·229, 230cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·103fecal contamination of, 1·117
clams (continued)geoduck
biology of, 3·27cooking sous vide, parametric
recipe for, 3·108Geoduck with Seawater Foam,
4·266Marinated Geoduck, Young
Ginger, Shiso, 5·197, 200Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga,
Scallop Mochi, 5·197, 202razor
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·103
noroviruses and, 1·155Razor Clam “Takoyaki,” 5·197, 199Razor Clam with Sauce Verte,
3·112Sous Vide Clam and Oat Riso� o,
3·308Stu� ed Clam, 5·229, 231Walnut Clam Marmalade, 5·229, 230
clari� ed bu� erbrowned solids from, using, 4·212how to make, 4·213
clarity. See also opacitythickener selection and, 4·15
Clay Potatoes, 3·398cleaning. See also food safety; hygiene
of co� ee brewer and grinder, 4·396of combi ovens, 2·169of espresso machines, how to, 4·397of kitchens, 1·200, 204
Cliche, Michael, sous vide cooking and, 2·195
climacteric fruits, ripening, 3·283–284climate, winemaking and, 4·328–329clinical trials. See randomized clinical
trialscloning, wine and, 4·326–328Clorox, for kitchen cleaning, 1·200, 204Clostridium botulinum
canning and, 2·75food contamination by, 1·140food poisoning and, 1·132–133,
138–139pressure-canning and, 2·85, 88refrigeration and, 2·257replication of
limits of, 1·145nisin and, 1·144–145
sodium nitrites and, 1·144Clostridium per� ingens
chicken and, 1·180food poisoning from, 1·138, 139, 141replication of
limits of, 1·145nisin and, 1·144–145rate of, 1·142
clo� ed cream, parametric recipe for, 4·56
Clove Oil, 5·49, 52Clover co� ee machine, 4·398CMC (carboxyl methylcellulose)
interactions with other thickeners, 4·44–45
product guide for, 4·IV–Vproperties and uses of, 4·42–43
CO (carbon monoxide), to bloom myoglobin in meat, 3·95
CO2. See carbon dioxidecoagulants
for gelling. See coagulants for gelling
coagulants (continued)protein, 4·103sequestrants for removing, 4·72for thickening, 4·7, 71
coagulants for gelling, 4·70, 71ion-based, 4·124–127
how to use, 4·129coals
faux. See prune coalsglowing, pot-roasting and, 2·96
coalescence, as emulsion failure, 4·210, 212
Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 3·248coarse-ground sausages, 3·220, 222
best bets for, 3·236–237cryosha� ering for, 3·230parametric recipe for, 3·236–237
Coca-Cola, 1·20, 22–23, 76cockles, cooking sous vide, parametric
recipe for, 3·103cockscombs
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·146
preparation of, 3·122Pu� ed Cockscomb, 3·133
cocoaCocoa Nib Curd, 4·105Cocoa Tajarin, 5·225, 227
cocoa tajarinCocoa Tajarin, 5·225, 227Cocoa Tajarin plated-dish recipe,
5·225–227parametric recipe for, 3·381
coconutCaramelized Coconut Cream, 4·50Coconut Chutney Foam, 4·282Coconut-Lobster Emulsion, 5·185,
187preserving, parametric recipe for,
3·348coconut oil, chemistry of, 2·126cod
cold-smoking, parametric recipe for, 3·210
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·102
Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused Milk, 3·103
Miso-Cured Black Cod, 3·179Monk� sh with Constructed Skin,
3·132Sous Vide Black Cod, 5·171, 173Steamed Cod with Cod Roe Velouté,
4·32cod roe, Steamed Cod with Cod Roe
Velouté, 4·32co� ee, 4·354–403. See also co� ee beans
adding cream to, physics of, 1·289Aerated Co� ee Ice Cream, 4·312brewing. See brewingCappuccino Foam, 4·266Co� ee Bu� er, 5·211, 212cold-extraction system for, 2·286,
4·370, 371consistency in, 4·396–403cooking with, technique of, 4·371deca� einated
production process for, 1·256science of, 4·363
espresso as. See espressoFair Trade, economics of, 4·361grinders for. See co� ee grindersKopi Luwak, provenance of, 4·360
co� ee (continued)milk and, art of, 4·391–395Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino,
4·275pod and capsule systems for,
technology of, 4·400Sea� le as capital of, history of, 4·398storing, practicalities of, 4·362tasting like a pro, how to, 4·365
co� ee beansburr grinders for, 2·401–402, 4·376,
378from cherry to, 4·358, 360–361for espresso, 4·374, 376
Northern Italian roast for, 4·360grinding for espresso
adjustments for, 4·388coarse vs. � ne, 4·376, 378common problems with, 4·377grinders for. See espresso grindershow to, 4·377pregrinding and, 4·380
processing methods for, 4·358roasting, stages of, 4·362roasting for � avor, 4·358, 360–361species of, 4·358surface area a� er grinding of, 2·290
Co� ee Bu� er, 5·211, 212co� ee extract, parametric recipe for,
2·326co� ee grinders
breaking down food with, 2·400burr type
dry-grinding with, 2·401–402quality of, co� ee grind and, 4·378technology of, 4·376
colloid mill for, 2·404dispensers, porta� lter dosing and,
4·378fan cooled, 4·376, 378, 398hopper of, stale co� ee in, 4·377quality of, co� ee grind and, 4·378temperature of, co� ee grind and,
4·376co� ee infusion, parametric recipe for,
2·310co� eegeek.com, 4·398cohort studies, of nutrition, 1·220COI, 1·67. See also Pa� erson, Danielcola brine, parametric recipe for, 3·168colanders, 2·351Colborne Lane, 1·70cold gels, parametric recipe for,
4·140–141cold liquids, thickened, parametric
recipe for, 4·46–47cold shortening, of a carcass, 3·35cold-extraction co� ee system, 2·286,
4·370, 371cold-shocking, physics of not halting
cooking with, 2·254cold-smoking, 2·141–143, 3·361coleslaw
Red Coleslaw, 5·67, 72White Coleslaw, 5·67, 72
collagenin cephalopods, 3·24–25in cooking, role of, 3·80–81fat and
incorporation into sausage, 3·224in meat, 3·15
in � sh, 3·20, 21gelatin formation from, 4·67
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 66 3/22/11 10:56:33 AM
I N D E X L X V I I
CONVECTION OVEN MODE Ccollagen (continued)
holding at speci� c temperature and, 2·247
Jaccard tenderizers and, 3·51long, slow cooking and, 3·84in meat, 3·6meat tenderness and, 3·10muscle contraction and, 3·8–9shrinkage of, 3·79in skin, baking chicken upright and,
2·109skin shrinkage and, 3·116, 118of young vs. older animals, juiciness
and, 3·79, 81collapse temperature, in freeze-drying,
2·446Collectramatic, 2·120–121colloid mills, 2·398–400
for dry-grinding, 2·404features of, 2·416–417milling creamy nut bu� er with,
2·418–419for Modernist kitchen, 2·284for wet-grinding, 2·413–414,
416–419colloidal suspensions (colloids)
blood as, 4·6description of, 4·12emulsi� ed sausage as, 3·225reductions of, 4·11
� e Colonel’s Chicken, 3·336colony-forming units (CFUs), 1·142color
alteration of, when cooking cured meat or seafood, 3·165
boiling to “� x,” chemistry of, 2·63, 66
of cow’s milk, 4·202of crustaceans, molting and, 3·30of fresh juice, preserving, 2·338, 339gassing meat for, chemistry of, 3·95of meat
cooking and, 3·93–94muscles and, 3·12, 14–15, 16–17
myoglobin and, 3·92–93physics of temperature and, 1·291of plant foods
cooking and changes in, chemistry of, 3·274–275
drying and, 3·365of seafood, cooking and, 3·93–94wine taste and, 4·334–335, 338
colorectal cancer, dietary � ber and risk of, 1·214–217
Columbus, Christopher, 1·14Combal.Zero, 1·70ComBase Initiative, Growth Predictor
(bacterial modeling) and, 1·147Combi Oven Rib Eye, 2·180combi ovens
bacon and eggs cooked in, 2·174–175baking using, 2·106broccoli steamed in, 2·181calibration of, 2·163cooking in, 2·167–168cooking modes of, 2·155–157cooking strategies for, 2·170crisping skin with, 3·123drying in, 2·430, 431heat and humidity control in,
2·162–163improvement proposals for, 2·167invention of, 2·154
combi ovens (continued)kitchen humidity and, 2·164for Modernist kitchen, 2·284omelet cooking in, 4·95pans for, 2·166pot-roasting using, 2·96program cooking with, 2·168–169,
172–173Rational. See Rational combi ovensrib eye recipe using, 2·180roasting chicken in, 2·178–179for sous vide cooking, 2·232, 239,
243water content of heated air in, 2·153
Combi Oven-Steamed Broccoli, 2·181combination (combi) mode, in modern
ovens, 2·156–157combustion, of wood, 2·137comminution, 3·230Compressed Dill Pickled Vegetables,
5·55, 58compressed fruits and vegetables
example recipes for, 3·392–401, 5·285
parametric recipe for, 3·390–391Compressed Green Apple, 5·211, 212Compressed Melon Terrine, 3·392Compressed Muscat Grapes, 5·109, 110Compressed Tomato, 5·11, 15compression, vacuum
physics of, 2·213for plant food cooking, 3·286using chamber sealers, 2·214
computer simulation modelsof bacterial growth, 1·147of cold-shocking e� ects on cooking,
2·254of � ipping food for speed and
evenness, 2·39of heat � ows in roasting vs. baking,
2·33of heat transfer, 1·282of time for steaming vs. boiling, 2·73
COMSOL, 1·282concentrates, 2·378–397
cell dehydration in, 1·305freezing, 2·396, 397Genevac Rocket Evaporator for,
2·391–395reverse osmosis for, 2·396rotary evaporator for, 2·384–389strategies for, 2·379–380vacuum reduction for, 2·380–383
concentrators, vacuum, 2·285, 379, 380conching, chocolate making by, 2·404concretes, solvent extraction of
essential oils and, 2·320condensates
de� nition of, 1·319� lm, steaming and, 1·319, 2·70from rotary evaporation, 2·390–391smoke, drenching food with, 2·149
condensation. See also evaporation; humidity
deep-frying and, 2·125energy transfer and, 2·70evaporative cooling as, 1·319–321,
325heat transfer with, 1·277stir-frying and, 2·48
condensers, vacuum, essential oils and, 2·320
Condrieu Bu� er, 5·171, 172
conducting foods, pressure-canning and, 2·88
conduction. See also conduction zonein cookware, 1·277–278in deep-frying, 2·117in foods, 1·279, 280–281
pressure-canning and, 2·89freezing water and, 1·299heat transfer with, 1·277in panfrying, 2·42–43in shallow frying, 2·127underground, wine storage and,
4·345in various materials, 1·280–281
conduction zonebaking and, 2·108in steak frying, 3·75stir-frying and, 2·48
con� dence interval, of nutritional studies, 1·220
con� ts, 2·128–131Artichoke Con� t, 5·171, 172Chestnut Con� t, 5·17, 18Con� t Cure Mix, 3·179Con� t Egg-Yolk Puree, 5·147, 148duck, curing for, 3·159Duck Leg Con� t with Pommes
Sarladaises, 3·178Garlic Con� t, 3·354, 5·25, 60, 81Lobster Mushroom Con� t, 5·185,
187Pink Grapefruit Con� t, 5·225, 226safety considerations for, 2·128Smoked Potato Con� t, 5·193, 195Sous Vide Duck Con� t Pavé, 5·81,
82sous vide preparation of, 2·128–129Steelhead Trout Con� t with Fennel
Salad, 3·106Tomato Con� t, 5·11, 55, 60, 62, 67traditional preparation of, 2·128,
130–131conformations, of prion diseases, 1·156,
158confounding e� ects, nutritional studies
and, 1·219conjugation, plasmid transfer by, 1·133Connaughton, Kyle, 3·54
Fluke Cured in Kombu recipe, 3·181Sous Vide Ponzu recipe, 2·313
connective tissueaging of, 3·41barbecue stall and, 3·212baseball glove cut from pork
shoulder and, 3·48blocking tuna and, 3·54–55of bones, 3·143–144brining and, 3·157cooking and, 3·76
of tough cuts, 3·84in fa� y tissue, 3·118, 145in heart meat, 3·142in kidneys, 3·141pounding and, 3·50sausage-making and, 3·224in skin, 3·116in sweetbreads, 3·140tenderizing of, 3·41
with marinades, 3·192, 193, 195in tongue, 3·141tumbling and, 3·51
conservation of mass, 1·331
consomméBagna Cauda Consommé, 5·229, 230best bets for, 2·374–375clarifying, 2·352crystal clear, 2·359example recipes for, 2·376–377Ham Consommé with Melon Beads,
4·48Oyster Consommé, 5·205, 206parametric recipe for, 2·374–375Pot au Feu Consommé, 5·49, 52Spring Garlic Consommé, 5·85, 86Strawberry Consommé, 5·277, 278vacuum � ltering of, 2·354
consommé madrilène, parametric recipe for, 2·374–375
constant-rate periodin baking, 2·106–107in deep-frying, 2·117in drying, 2·431
constructed cheesesbest bets for, 4·223example recipes for, 4·224–225
constructed creams, 4·214Constructed Veal Cream, 5·31, 33example recipes for, 4·236–237
Constructed Red Wine Glaze, 5·219, 221
contaminationby animal � esh, 1·117cross-contamination and. See cross-
contaminationenvironmental, 1·116, 117fecal
animal, 1·116–117hygiene and, 1·196–197, 200plant foods and, 1·197
by human spi� le, 1·116, 117kitchen space and, 1·200microbial
aerobic. See aerobic bacteriaanaerobic. See anaerobic bacteriabad odors from sealed bags and,
2·214shell� sh foraging and, 3·27–28
continuous phaseof cream, 4·203in emulsions, 4·199
ratio of continuous phase to, 4·205in foams, 4·243
controlled-vapor oven. See CVap water-vapor ovens
convecting foods, pressure-canning of, 2·88, 89
convectionconvection zone and, 2·48cooking using, 1·279, 281–283. See
also convection baking; convection ovens
forced, 1·282–283, 2·159freezing water and, 1·299heat transfer with, 1·277natural, 1·282, 283panfrying and, 2·42–43
convection bakingboundary layer and, 2·108, 110radiant heat and, 2·110–111
convection cells, in natural convection, 1·283
convection currents, boiling and, 1·315convection oven mode, combi ovens
and, 2·157, 168
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 67 3/22/11 10:56:34 AM
L X V I I I I N D E X
CONVECTION OVENSCconvection ovens. See also convection
bakingdrying in, 2·431forced convection, 1·282–283forced-convection steam ovens and,
2·239method of operation, 1·282–283TurboChef microwave oven and,
2·189convection steaming, in ovens, 2·156convection zone, stir-frying and, 2·48convenience food, corporate control of,
1·23Cook, Robin, 3·196cookbook writers, chefs as, 1·83cook-chill sous vide methods
canning and, 2·204–205for food preservation, 2·252frigi-canning and, 2·84for storage, 1·206, 2·250vacuum packing for, 2·208–209
cooked whole eggs, parametric recipe for, 4·78–79
cooking. See also speci� c cooking techniques and foods
corporate approach to, 1·22–24of early civilizations, 1·7–8, 10–13evolution of, 1·14–16history of origins of, 1·6–13history of Slow Food and, 1·23by hunter-gatherers and early
farmers, 1·6–7Modernist. See Modernist cuisineNew American cuisine, 1·28–29Nouvelle revolution in, 1·24, 26–31of plant foods under pressure,
example recipes for, 3·301–303, 5·181
revolution in, 1·18–20at low end, 1·20–22Nouvelle, 1·24, 26–31
in 17th century France, 1·9of skin, example recipes for,
3·132–135sous vide. See sous videtraditional. See traditional cooking
cooking times, food geometry and estimates of, 1·279
cooktop. See also burners; stove topfor Modernist kitchen, 2·287
cookware. See also pans; pots; speci� c types of cookware
aluminumconduction in, 1·280heat capacity of, 1·278
cast iron, 1·278, 280ceramic, conductivity and, 1·277conductivity of, 1·277–278
cooling. See also chilling; chilling water baths; cook-chill sous vide methods; freezing; refrigeration; refrigerators
evaporativehumidity and, 1·319–320oven temperatures and, 2·155
of hot foodfood safety and, 1·205–206, 2·256,
257phase changes and, 1·290starchy plants and, 3·280, 282
vacuum-assistedevaporation and, 1·321phase changes in, 1·290
Copenhagen Pectin, 4·40
Coppens, Kristof, 1·70copyright laws, chefs’ recipes and,
1·70–71core temperature
FDA Food Code on, 1·174heating to, food safety and, 1·191target
holding food at, 2·247–249water bath ho� er than, 2·243–247water bath set to, 2·243–245
coriander extract, parametric recipe for, 2·326
corked wine, 4·348–350rescuing, chemistry of, 4·349
corks, for wine bo� les, natural and synthetic, 4·344, 345, 346
corn. See also popcorncooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·289, 292Corn Bread, 5·67, 76Corn Croque� a, 3·341Corn Custard, 4·122Corn Foam, 4·273Corn Pebbles, 4·36Crispy Corn Pudding, 5·101, 104dehydrating, parametric recipe for,
3·366dried, Shrimp and Grits, 3·377 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,
3·372freezing to preserve � avor of, 3·374frozen, grits ground from, 3·376pu� ed, parametric recipe for, 4·302puree of, parametric recipe for,
2·425smoking, parametric recipe for,
3·362corn oil, chemistry of, 2·126corn starch, 4·20
thickening with, parametric recipe for, 4·28
corn syrup, � avor release by, 4·11corned beef cure, parametric recipe for,
3·169cornmeal, gelling properties of, 4·68Corriher, Shirley O., 1·44cotechino, parametric recipe for,
3·236–237Côtes-du-Rhône wine, early Greek
traders and, 1·12co� age cheese, parametric recipe for,
4·104co� onseed oil, chemistry of, 2·126coulant, of Michael Bras, 1·40Counter Culture Co� ee, 4·361Country Bread Crisps, 5·85, 86Coupe-Set, 2·410court bouillon, truite au bleu and, 3·40Courtine, Robert (La Reynière), 1·26covalent bonds, 1·296, 330covered sautéing, 2·58–61
chao technique and, 2·54cutaway illustration of, 2·60–61searing or glazing before, 2·58
covering brine, for accelerating brining, 3·166
cow pumps, extruding gel noodles with, 4·139
cow’s milk. See also milkallergies to, 1·238
cP (centipoise), 4·6CP Kelco, 4·40
crab. See also crabmeatbiology of, 3·28, 30liver � uke infections and, 1·124
crabmeatCrab and Ginger Marble, 5·253, 255Crab and Pork Stock Spheres, 5·253,
256Crab Oil, 5·189, 190Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade,
4·169Edamame Sheets, King Crab,
Cinnamon Dashi, 4·118faux (surimi), 3·251, 388Marinated Crab Salad, 5·189, 191Pu� ed Crab Crackers, 5·189, 190Shell� sh Stock, 5·185, 186Triple Dungeness Crab and Pork
Stock Infusion, 5·253, 254Cracco, Carlo, 1·70
Seafood Paper recipe, 3·188crack phases, in co� ee roasting, 4·361,
362crackers
pu� ed, parametric recipe for, 4·302Tapioca Starch Cracker, 4·303
cracklings, water as foaming gas for, 4·254
Craig, Lyman, 2·384cranberries, cooking sous vide,
parametric recipe for, 3·288, 291craw� sh/cray� sh
freshwater, biology of, 3·28liver � uke infections and, 1·124as seafood gel, 3·222
CREA (Centre de Recherche et d’Études pour l’Alimentation), 1·43
C-reactive protein, 1·227, 242cream. See also creams
adding to co� ee, physics of, 1·289Baked Potato Foam, 4·281, 5·193clo� ed, parametric recipe for, 4·56Corn Foam, 4·273Cromesquis, 3·340Eggplant Foam, 4·280emulsi� cation into bu� er, 4·206as emulsion, viscosity of, 4·205emulsions and, 4·221heavy
gums added to, 4·102organic food movement perception
of, 1·253Herbed Cheese Spread, 4·57hydrating LA gellan with, 4·124–125Instant Crème Fraîche, 4·57Low Fat “Cream,” 4·57as oil-in-water emulsion, 4·199, 201Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam,
4·276separating bu� erfat from, 2·366, 368for set foams, parametric recipe for,
4·288–289smoked, parametric recipe for, 4·100Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune
Sabayon, 3·363whipped, hot and cold treatment for,
4·244, 248Whipped Bu� er, 4·286Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato
Chips, 4·287cream cheese
Aerated Co� ee Ice Cream, 4·312Crispy Cream Cheese, 4·63
Creamed Spinach, 4·55
Creamed Watercress, 2·426, 5·5creaming
as draining in foams, 4·249as emulsion failure, 4·210, 218
creamsconstructed, 4·214, 236–237Constructed Veal Cream, 5·31, 33making, best bets for, 4·56parametric recipe for, 4·56
cremaage of roasted co� ee beans and,
4·361carbon dioxide and, 4·384chemistry of, 4·388
crème anglaiseCauli� ower Crème Anglaise, 4·89parametric recipe for, 4·85
crème brûléeparametric recipe for, 4·85Parmesan Crème Brûlée, 4·88
crème caramelparametric recipe for, 4·92Smoked Egg Crème Caramel, 4·101
crème fraîcheCaramelized Crème Fraîche, 5·25, 28Frozen Crème-Fraîche and Pine-Nut
Cream, 2·411Red-Onion Cream, 3·68
Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease (CJD), 1·157–159, 160
Crilly, Grant, Prune Coals recipe, 5·17crimini mushrooms
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·289
Crimini in Amber, 4·154Mushroom Broth, 5·11, 14Mushroom Ketchup, 5·11, 13
Crisp Chicken Crown, 5·113, 116crisping skin
approaches to, 3·123a� er cooking sous vide, 2·268of � sh
slime as key to, physiology of, 3·129small, how to, 3·130sous vide, 3·131
crispsBlack Sesame Rice Crisps, 4·304Gremolata Crisp, 5·60, 64Rice Crisp, 5·31, 32
Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 5·43, 47Crispy Beef Strands, 5·43, 44Crispy Boiled Peanuts, 3·303Crispy Cauli� ower plated-dish recipe,
5·281–283Crispy Corn Pudding, 5·101, 104Crispy Cream Cheese, 4·63Crispy Dosa, 3·355Crispy Duck Tongues, 5·81, 84Crispy Goat’s Milk Rico� a Dumpling,
5·273, 274Crispy Halibut Cheek, 3·334–335Crispy Hay-Smoked Chicken plated-
dish recipe, 5·113–119Crispy Okra, 5·90, 97Crispy Snapper Skin, 5·167, 168Crispy Sweetbreads, 3·150critical point, in phase diagrams,
1·302–303critical temperature
bacterial replication rates and, 1·142–143
for freeze-drying, science of, 2·453freeze-drying and, 2·444, 446
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 68 3/22/11 10:56:34 AM
I N D E X L X I X
DDASHI
Crljenak Kastelanski grapes, 4·326crock pots, 2·240Cromesquis, 3·340crosnes, cooking sous vide, parametric
recipe for, 3·292cross-contamination
dirty gloves and, 1·200E. coli O157:H7 outbreak of 2006
and, 1·172food safety standards and, 1·168–169foodborne pathogens and, 1·166gluten intolerance and, 1·239UV powder for tracking, 1·201
crotchless porta� lters, 4·385, 388, 398cruciferous vegetables. See also speci� c
vegetablesblanching, 2·214
crustaceans. See also crabmeat; crabs; craw� sh; lobsters; prawns; shrimp
biology of, 3·28–31cu� ing of, 3·52Maillard reaction of, 3·87
Cruz, Jordi, Olive Oil Noodles recipe, 4·146
cryoconcentration, of wine, 4·330cryoextraction, of wine, 2·396cryogenic freezing, 2·456–467, 471–473
characteristics of, 2·456, 458dry ice for, 2·458, 464, 466, 471–473food � avor and, 2·261ice crystal formation in freezers and,
2·257–258liquid nitrogen for, 1·308, 2·456, 458,
459, 460–463safety with, 2·464, 466, 467science of how liquid nitrogen boils
and, 2·457tartares and raw meat preparation
with, 3·62cryogenics
de� nition of, 2·456late 19th-century research on, 1·60for quick freezing, 1·308
cryogens, 2·456. See also dry ice; liquid nitrogen
culinary life of, 1·60–66, 68, 70safe handling of, 2·464, 466, 467spheri� cation with, 4·184suppliers of, 2·458
cryograting, how to, 2·461cryopoaching
Cryopoached Dill Meringue, 5·161, 165
Cryopoached Green Tea Sour, 4·291for Dippin’ Dots, 1·61technique for, 2·460
cryopowdering, how to, 2·461cryorendering
of subcutaneous fat, 3·122before vacuum packing, 2·268
cryosearingwith dry ice, 2·464of duck breast, how to, 3·124–125with liquid nitrogen, 2·456, 458of skin and fat, 3·118of subcutaneous fat, 3·122
cryoshaping, how to, 2·463cryosha� ering
for coarse-ground sausage, 3·230how to, 2·463of plant foods, to modify texture,
3·374for tartare, how to, 3·64
cryospheri� cation, 4·184Cryovac
AGS system of vacuum packing and, 1·40
Roux, sous vide cooking and, 1·41sous vide school and, 1·42, 43
cryptosporidiosis, 1·129Cryptosporidium parvum, 1·129Crystallized Rose Petals, 3·368cucumber chips, parametric recipe for,
3·328cucumbers
compressing, parametric recipe for, 3·390
Cucumber Black-Eyed Pea Salad, 5·94
impregnating, parametric recipe for, 3·390
Nukazuke, 3·354preserving, parametric recipe for,
3·348Salted Cucumber, 5·233, 236Sous Vide Cucumber Pickles, 3·353
Cuisine Solutions, 1·43, 2·265Le Cuisinier François (La Varenne, 1651),
1·8, 9cultures, bacterial, for fermented
sausage, 3·246curds. See proteins, curds ofCured Beef Tenderloin “Bresaola Style,”
3·185Cured Ham Broth, 5·81, 84cures
example recipes for, 3·176–185, 5·17, 18, 43, 151
parametric recipe for, 3·168–172curing
accelerating strategies for, 3·166–167, 174–175
best bets for, 3·172dry. See dry-curingdrying with warm air and, 2·433for food preservation, 3·152functional ingredients for, 3·155nitrates, nitrites, and nitrosamines
and, 3·160process of, 3·158, 160, 162, 165–166ripening a� er, 3·167, 173safety of, worrisome signs during,
3·164salts for. See salts, curingtime and salt concentration for, 3·154wet. See wet-curing
curries. See also curry saucesfor � avor and preservation,
3·196–197Curry Oil, 2·331curry sauces
Goan Curry, 5·90, 91, 95Kerala Curry, 5·90, 91, 96Masala Curry, 5·90, 91, 98Mughal Curry Sauce, 5·89, 90, 92Muslim Curry Sauce, 5·89–91, 93
Curry-Impregnated Apple, 3·393custard
Asparagus Royale, 4·94Bone Marrow Custard, 5·60, 63Boudin Noir Custard, 5·125, 127Cauli� ower Panna Co� a, 4·142Chawanmushi, 4·96Corn Custard, 4·122Deep-Fried Custard, 4·120Gruyère Custard, 5·261, 264
custard (continued) Hot Blood Pudding Custard, 4·221Japanese (chawanmushi), parametric
recipe for, 4·92parametric recipe for, 4·84royale, parametric recipe for, 4·92Salmon Custard, 4·119Shell� sh Custard, 4·162
cutaway illustrationsof baked turkey, 2·104–105of bao technique of stir-frying, 2·55of boiling à l’Anglaise, 2·64–65of boiling-water canning, 2·82–83of chao technique of stir-frying,
2·56–57of covered sautéing of vegetables,
2·60–61of CVap water-vapor oven, 2·160–161of deep-frying, 1·89, 2·118–119for depicting science of cooking,
1·84, 88–89of espresso machine, 4·402–403of Girardet method, 2·24–25of grilling, 2·8–9of heat loss from stove-top pots, 1·276of indirect grilling, 2·13of meat grinder, 3·229of microwave oven, 2·186–187of Pacojet, 2·408–409of pot-roasting, 2·94–95of pressure-canning, 2·90–91of pressure-cooking stock, 2·293–294of Ronco Showtime Rotisserie Oven,
2·34–35of sautéing, 2·46–47of searing a la plancha, 2·40–41of sou� é, 4·248–249of steak frying in skillet, 3·72–73of steaming, 2·72–73of stewing, 2·96–97of whipping siphon, 4·261of wok stir-frying, 1·88, 2·50–51
cu� ing boards, kitchen hygiene and, 1·204
cu� ing particles down to size. See particle size reduction
cu� le� shbiology of, 3·24cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·108Japanese cu� ing of, 3·52
CVap water-vapor ovensbacon and eggs cooked in, 2·174–175cooking modes of, 2·155–156, 169cooking strategies for, 2·170cutaway illustration of, 2·160–161forced convection in, 2·159heat and humidity control in,
2·158–159improvement proposals for, 2·167invention of, 2·154
CWD (chronic wasting disease), 1·159cyanide
bi� er almond aroma of, 3·262cassava cooking by South American
natives and, 1·6cyclamate, as banned additive, 1·252Cyclospora cayetanensis, 1·129cyclosporosis, 1·129cysteine, 3·89cysticercosis, 1·124cytochrome, 3·12, 94
DD (decimal) level reductions
1D or 12D, for sanitizing food, 1·148, 149
of pathogens in food, 1·166, 168Dacosta, Quique
aesthetics of nature in dishes of, 4·37Frozen White “Tru� e” recipe,
3·400–401Kanpachi Sashimi with Citrus Foam
recipe, 4·269Lemon Verbena and Peach Froth
recipe, 4·273liquid nitrogen cooking by, 2·459Modernist cuisine and, 1·57“Into the Vegetable Garden” and,
3·294Daguin, André, liquid nitrogen and,
1·60–61, 62, 65Daguin, Ariane, 1·61daikon radishes, cooking sous vide,
parametric recipe for, 3·289� e Daily Cleveland Herald, 3·220dairy brine, parametric recipe for, 3·168dairy products. See also speci� c dairy
productsemulsions, 4·218–229
example recipes for, 4·219–221foaming agents and, 4·251gels, 4·102–123
example recipes for, 4·105–111, 114, 117, 120, 122
parametric recipe for, 4·116–117pasteurization of
FDA Food Code on, 1·187, 188–189simpli� ed cooking standards for,
1·190, 191, 192smoking
best bets for, 4·100parametric recipe for, 4·100
typicalfat content of, 5·XLIIIwater content of, 5·XL
Dairy-Free Whipped Cream, 4·283Dal Pescatore, 1·28Dalton’s law of partial pressures, 2·87“danger zone,” 1·175–179
microbial growth pa� erns and, 1·175misconceptions about, 1·175–176,
178–179Salmonella growth and, 1·177
Dannon yogurtfor American tastes, 1·20–21as fast, ready-to-eat food, 1·22–23
dark cu� er meat, 3·35dark meat. See also red meat
in chickens and turkeys, 3·12in ducks vs. chickens, 3·16–17� avor of, 3·15in sedentary animals, 3·14
DART 1 (Diet and Reinfarction Trial), 1·232
DASH (Dietary Approaches to Stop Hypertension) trials, 1·234, 236, 237
dashiBacon Dashi, 2·308Dashimaki Tamago, 4·94Edamame Sheets, King Crab,
Cinnamon Dashi, 4·118Hon Dashi, 2·306, 5·197
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 69 3/22/11 10:56:34 AM
L X X I N D E X
DASHIDdashi (continued)
parametric recipe for, 2·304–305dates
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·290
Date Puree, 5·121, 122de Landa, Bishop Diego, of Yucatán,
1·13De re coquinaria. See Apiciusde Serres, Pierre
Freedom Cooking System of, 2·240sous vide at home and, 1·73
dealcoholization, in viticulture, 4·331deaths
bacterial, 1·148–151pasteurization and sterilization for,
1·149thermal death curves of, 1·150–151
humanfrom botulism vs. toxoplasma,
1·118foodborne illnesses and, 1·113from foodborne microorganisms,
1·113U.S. rates for foodborne illnesses
vs. other causes of, 1·118deca� einated co� ee
espresso, temperature se� ings and, 4·374, 385
production process for, 1·256science of, 4·363
decanting wine, 4·342–343deception, culinary, 3·388–401decoction, in co� ee brewing, 4·364deconstruction
Adrià on elBulli cooking and, 1·37–38
Blumenthal on, 1·51Deep-Fried Brussels Sprouts, 3·321Deep-Fried Cauli� ower, 5·281, 283Deep-Fried Custard, 4·120Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 4·228deep-frying, 2·116–127
baking compared with, 2·116–117ba� er coating for, 2·122, 127a� er cooking sous vide, 2·271crust and, 2·122–123cutaway illustration of, 1·89,
2·118–119equipment for, 2·287factors a� ecting oil coating of foods
and, 2·127foam forming with, 4·258food size for, 2·117greasiness with, avoiding, 2·125, 127heat conduction in, 2·117heat transfer coe� cient of, 1·283high-pressure, 2·120–121multistep, 2·122–123oil used for
age of, 2·127chemistry of, 2·126fresh, 2·123new, breaking in, 2·123repeated use of, 2·123–125smoking of, 2·124temperature of, 2·116, 122, 123,
127overloading deep fryer and, 2·125under pressure, 2·120–121precooking food sous vide for, 2·123stages of, 2·116–117surface roughness of food and, 2·127
deep-frying (continued)thickness of food and, 2·127water vapor in, 2·115, 116–117,
118–119, 125deer. See also venison
chronic wasting disease in, 1·159hunters of, CJD-like disease in, 1·161
defrost cycles, automatic, ice crystal formation and, 2·258
Degeimbre, Sang-hoonLychee and Lime Soda recipe, 4·268Modernist cuisine and, 1·70
dehydrated foods, seasonal mélanges with, 3·295
Dehydrated Garlic Chip, 5·43, 46dehydrating cabinets. See also drying
features of, 2·431, 434–435dehydration. See dryingdehydrators
drying in, 2·430, 3·365for Modernist kitchen, 2·286
deionized (DI) water, 1·335espresso-making and, 4·384hydrating ion-coagulated gels and,
4·124, 125for plant food cooking, 3·278
Delhasse, Anthony, 1·70delicata squash, cooking sous vide,
parametric recipe for, 3·289Les Délices de la Campagne (Bonnefons,
1654), 1·9deliquescence, 2·428Demetrius of Phalerum, 1·13denaturing
of collagenas gelatin, 3·78in living animals, 3·76
holding at speci� c temperature as, 2·247
of proteins, foaming and, 4·244Denia, 1·57Denominazione di Origine Controllata
(DOC), 4·332Denominazione di Origine Controllata e
Garantita (DOCG), 4·332density, heat capacity of cookware and,
1·278dental vibrator tray, for espresso
tamping, 4·380deoxymyoglobin, 3·93deposition
de� nition of, 1·326sublimation vs., 1·329
derivatives, mathematical, de� nition of, 2·230
desiccants, food drying and, 2·428desiccation zone
in baking, 2·107, 108in steak frying, 3·74
desiccators, vacuumdrying plants foods with, 3·365features of, 2·433, 436–437foam forming with, 4·310for Modernist kitchen, 2·286
dessert trolleysdisappearance from elBulli of, 1·35plated desserts vs., 1·25
detergents, as surfactants, 4·202detox diets, 1·248Deviled Eggs, 4·81dew point, 1·325, 2·154
on psychrometric charts, how to read, 1·323
Dewar, James, 1·60, 66Dewar � asks
for liquid nitrogen storage, 2·458Marshall and demonstration of, 1·60safe handling of, 2·467venting, 2·466
DFD (dry � rm dark), early rigor mortis and, 3·35
DI (deionized) water, 1·335espresso-making and, 4·384hydrating ion-coagulated gels and,
4·124, 125for plant food cooking, 3·278
diabetes, vegan diet and, 1·244Diamond, Jared, 3·268diaphragm, as sausage binder, 3·222–223diarrhea
bacterial dispersal and, 1·134pathogens causing, 1·114, 126, 138,
155traveler’s, 1·129
Díaz del Castillo, Bernal, 1·13Dickens, Charles, 5·125
on partridge, 5·132Diet and Reinfarction Trial (DART 1),
1·232Dietary Approaches to Stop
Hypertension (DASH) trials, 1·234, 236, 237
dietary systemsdietary � ber in, 1·214–217medical, 1·222–239nonmedical, 1·240–249as rules for eating, 1·211testing disease risk and, 1·218–221,
258diets
of animals, meat tenderness and, 3·11Atkins, 1·242colorectal cancer and, 1·214–217DART 1, 1·232DASH, 1·234, 236, 237detox, 1·248fat in. See fat, dietary� ber in. See � ber, dietarygrapefruit, 1·240–241LEARN, 1·242low-carbohydrate, 1·242low-fat, 1·241Mediterranean, 1·232, 241, 242Shangri-La, 1·241South Beach, 1·242Spectrum, 1·242vegan, 1·244weight loss, 1·240–241
di� erential scanning calorimeter (DSC), 1·268
di� usionaccelerating in brining or curing,
3·166–167in alcohol-based marinades, 3·195,
198in brining, 3·154, 156, 158in curing, 3·154, 160, 162, 164, 165in drying with salt and sugar, 3·346Fick’s law of, 2·283, 290, 343in marinating, 3·190of water through food, drying
actions and, 2·428di� usivity, thermal
in cookware, 1·278of foods and various materials,
1·280–281
digestionof ca� eine, 4·363of carbon dioxide, 2·464of raw plants, biology of, 3·269of starches, 4·20
digital scalesgram-type, 1·94–95for measuring hydrocolloids, 4·38for Modernist kitchen, 2·286pocket-type, for measuring
thickeners, 4·23digital thermometers
accuracy issues with, 1·206–207for Modernist kitchen, 2·286for sous vide cooking, 2·240for testing refrigerator hot and cold
spots, 2·257diglycerides, 4·216–217dill
Carrot and Dill Fricassee, 5·161, 164Cryopoached Dill Meringue, 5·161,
165Dill Spheres, 4·130
Dioscorides, Pedanius, 1·11Diphyllobothrium latum, 1·124dipole molecules, 1·330Dippin’ Dots, 1·61, 72discoloration, when cooking cured meat
or seafood, 3·165disease names, etymology of, 1·119dish towels, cross-contamination and,
1·200disodium 5’ guanylate, 3·160disodium 5’ inosinate, 3·160dispersed phase
in emulsions, 4·199, 205in foams, 4·243ratio of continuous phase to, 4·205
dispersingapproaches to, 4·20, 22of cellulosic gums, 4·127of hydrocolloids
for gelling, 4·124for thickening, 4·38
of thickeners, how to, 4·24dissolved materials. See also solubility
boiling point and, 1·318freezing and, 1·304–305reductions of, 4·11
distillation, 2·384–394example recipes for, 2·389Genevac Rocket Evaporator for,
2·391–395invention of, 2·390for purifying water, 1·335rotary evaporator for, 2·384–391U.S. laws on, 1·94, 2·384, 391vacuum, 2·380. See also rotary
evaporatorsDNA
testing genetic origins of grapes using, 4·326, 327
in viruses, 1·152DOC (Denominazione di Origine
Controllata), 4·332DOCG (Denominazione di Origine
Controllata e Garantita), 4·332Don’t Forget Fiber in Your Diet (Burki� ),
1·214doorknobs, personal hygiene and, 1·200dose standard, for espresso shots, 4·380dosing, in espresso-making, 4·378, 380double ristre� o, evolution of, 4·379
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 70 3/22/11 10:56:35 AM
I N D E X L X X I
EGG WHITES Edouble stocks, 2·290double-blind trials
for nutritional studies, 1·218–219in wine tasting, 4·340, 342
double-disc mills, 2·404Dover sole, aging e� ects on, 3·40DQ curing salt, 3·158dra� , � re and, 2·7drag, convection baking and, 2·110dragon fruit, compressing and
impregnating, parametric recipe for, 3·390
draining, in foams, 4·249Dried Cherry and Hazelnut Nougatine,
5·267, 270dried fermented sausages, 3·246, 250drip co� ee maker, automatic, 4·368drippings
� ares from, aluminum foil in grills and, 2·15
� avor of grilled food and, 2·12dry boxes, 2·431, 434–435. See also
dryingdry � rm dark (DFD), early rigor mortis
and, 3·35dry ice, 2·458
carbonating fruit with, 2·472carbonating liquids with, 2·464freezing using, 1·310, 311safe handling of, 2·464, 466sublimation and, 1·326suppliers of, 2·458tru� es, storing with, 2·471
dry process, for co� ee, 4·358dry rubs
basic, parametric recipe for, 3·169best bets for, 3·168, 169functional ingredients in, 3·155Kansas Rub, 5·66, 68Memphis Rub, 5·66, 68parametric recipe for, 3·168–172sweet, parametric recipe for, 3·169
dry-aging meat, 3·41how to, 3·42
dry-bulb temperaturebraising or pot-roasting in ovens
and, 2·96consistent baking and, 2·111in CVap water-vapor oven,
2·158–159in deep-frying, 2·116ordinary ovens and, 2·155preheating to, 2·103on psychrometric charts, how to
read, 1·323in Rational combi oven, 2·164–165relative humidity and, 1·322smoking and, 3·211wet-bulb temperature vs., 2·96, 102,
106, 112dry-curing
equilibrium, 3·165for food preservation, 3·152osmosis and, 3·154salinity for, 3·160
dryers, vacuum, 2·430, 433, 436–437dry-grinding, equipment for,
2·401–402, 404, 407drying, 2·428–455. See also curing
in baking, stages of, 2·106–108characteristics of, 2·428with cold, dry air, 1·326, 328in cold-smoking, 2·143
drying (continued)in combi oven, convection mode for,
2·168crisping skin and, 3·123desiccants and, 2·428desiccation zone and
in baking, 2·107, 108in steak frying, 3·74
equipment for, 2·286freeze-drying and. See freeze-dryingby hunter-gatherers, 1·6liquid smoke and, 2·149of meat and seafood, 3·152–189of plant foods, 3·365–373progressive smoking and, 2·148rehydration and, physics of, 1·321ripening of cured meat or seafood
and, 3·173with salt and sugar, 3·344, 346, 348spray-drying and, 2·438–443
equipment for, 2·285, 430method for, 2·442
strategies for, 2·430tapeworms and, 1·124vacuum-assisted, 1·321, 2·215vacuum-drying and, 2·430, 433,
436–437with warm air, 2·431–433, 434–435
DSC (di� erential scanning calorimeter), 1·268
Ducasse, AlainAsparagus Royale recipe, 4·94Gras, Laurent and, 1·69Jus de la Presse recipe, 2·347on Modernist cuisine, 1·63New International cuisine and, 1·30,
31Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard
Marmalade and Porcini recipe, 3·97
sous vide cooking and, 1·42duck
brining, parametric recipe for, 3·172cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·99, 108cryorendering before vacuum
packing, 2·268cryosearing, how to, 3·124–125curing, parametric recipe for, 3·172Duck Apicius plated-dish recipe,
5·121–123Duck Broth with Vanilla and Bay
Leaf, 5·109, 110Duck Leg Con� t with Pommes
Sarladaises, 3·178foie gras and. See foie grasmeat color of chicken vs., 3·16–17Moulard, for foie gras production,
3·138Sous Vide Duck Con� t Pavé, 5·81,
82Sous Vide Duck Ham, 5·85, 87
duck eggsCentury Egg, 4·83Liquid Center Duck Egg, 5·219, 220
duck fat, chemistry of, 2·126duck foie gras. See foie grasDuck Leg Con� t with Pommes
Sarladaises, 3·178duck skin
how to precook, 3·82leaving extra during butchery of,
3·116, 118
duck stock, parametric recipe for, 2·296–298
duck tonguecooking of, 3·141
sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·146
Crispy Duck Tongues, 5·81, 84Du� y, Curtis, 1·69Dufresne, Wylie
Achatz’s meal at elBulli and, 1·38, 52Aerated Foie Gras recipe, 4·311Almond Polenta recipe, 4·36Avocado Puree recipe, 5·205, 207Barbecued Eel with Whipped
Caramel recipe, 4·283Beignet of Sauce Ravigote recipe,
5·49, 51Cheese Pu� s recipe, 4·305cold gels and, 4·140, 144Corn Pebbles recipe, 4·36Crispy Cream Cheese recipe, 4·63Crispy Goat’s Milk Rico� a
Dumpling recipe, 5·273, 274critics on, 1·63Deep-Fried Hollandaise recipe,
4·228on dehydrating fruits and vegetables,
3·366Edamame Sheets, King Crab,
Cinnamon Dashi recipe, 4·118Edible Earth recipe, 4·37Egg Salad Sandwich recipe, 4·90Fermented Shrimp Sheets recipe,
5·167, 168freeze � ltration and, 2·369Gruyère Spheres recipe, 4·190Hanger Steak Tartare recipe, 3·65Horseradish Foam recipe, 4·284Instant Tofu Noodles recipe, 4·172Knot Foie recipe, 4·144Modernist cuisine and, 1·62, 67, 69molded egg yolk tubes of, 4·90–91Popcorn Pudding recipe, 4·181Skate Pavé with Bread Crust recipe,
5·157Sous Vide Duck Ham, 5·85, 87Steingarten on, 1·65Sunny-Side Up “Eggs” and,
14·148–149dulse, 5·28dumplings. See also gnocchi
Buckwheat Pelmeni, 5·233, 237Crispy Goat’s Milk Rico� a
Dumpling, 5·273, 274Goat Cheese Dumplings, 4·105soup, about, 5·254Sour Cream Spaetzle (Csipetke),
4·117, 5·55, 59Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade,
4·169Dunlop, Fuchsia, Gong Bao Chicken
recipe, 3·205Durand, Peter, 2·75Durand-Ruel, Paul, 1·19dynamic viscosity, 4·6
EEast Texas BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 69Eating Quality Assured beef-grading
system, Australia, 3·39echinoderms, 3·30ecograstronomy, of Slow Food, 1·23École de La Varenne, 4·322–325ecological studies, of nutrition, 1·220Edamame Sheets, King Crab,
Cinnamon Dashi, 4·118edge sealers, 2·222–224
chamber sealers vs., 2·222common problems with, 2·223for Modernist kitchen, 2·284rigid containers and, 2·226–227vacuum packing with, 2·224
Edible Bar Soap with Honey Bubbles, 4·267
“edible earth”Edible Earth, 4·37Redzepi and, 3·294
edible � lms, 4·6best bets for, 4·60Edible Wrappers, 4·62parametric recipe for, 4·60
edible glasses, 4·6dehydrating formula for, 3·367Pineapple Glass, 3·370Spiced Honey Glass, 5·121, 123
eelBarbecued Eel with Whipped
Caramel, 4·283cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·102e� ciency
energy, power and, 1·274–276heat transfer coe� cient and, 1·283
Egg Blossom, 4·80egg emulsions, example recipes for,
4·226–229egg gels, 4·74–101
blendedbest bets for, 4·92parametric recipe for, 4·92
example recipes for, 4·80–81, 83, 86–91, 93–99, 101
parametric recipe for, 4·116–117separated
best bets for, 4·85parametric recipe for, 4·85
Egg Salad Sandwich, 4·90egg white custard, parametric recipe for,
4·85egg whites
droplets of, parametric recipe for, 4·85
as � ning agents, 2·358–360for � uid gels, 4·176foams formed from, 4·247Fried Egg Foam, 5·211, 212Instant Swiss Meringue, 4·284Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake,
4·294with myosin for meat glue, 3·250proteins of, as foaming agent, 4·244for set foams, parametric recipe for,
4·288–289Siphoned Sou� é á la Lorraine, 4·297Steamed Blancmange, 4·296
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 71 3/22/11 10:56:35 AM
L X X I I I N D E X
EGG WHITESEegg whites (continued)
texture of, temperature and, 4·76–77
as thermo-irreversible gels, 4·70egg yolks
Basic Mayonnaise, 4·226, 5·233Cauli� ower Crème Anglaise, 4·89Con� t Egg-Yolk Puree, 5·147, 148Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 4·228droplets of, parametric recipe for,
4·85Dufresne’s molded tubes of, 4·90–91Egg Salad Sandwich, 4·90Egg Yolk Con� t, 5·211, 213for � uid gels, 4·176
parametric recipe for, 4·177Freeze-Dried Egg Yolk, 5·247, 250Gruyère Sou� é, 4·301for light foams, parametric recipe
for, 4·270Parmesan Crème Brûlée, 4·88proteins of, as foaming agent, 4·244Sauce Allemande, 4·88Scrambled Egg Foam, 5·215, 216for set foams, parametric recipe for,
4·288–289as sliceable gel, 4·74
parametric recipe for, 4·85Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune
Sabayon, 3·363Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise,
4·228Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 4·227Steamed Blancmange, 4·296as surfactant emulsi� ers, 4·226temperature, and texture of, 4·76–77
Eggless Citrus Curd, 4·234, 5·157Eggless Mayonnaise, 4·232eggplant
compressing, parametric recipe for, 3·390
Eggplant Foam, 4·280impregnating, parametric recipe for,
3·390preserving, parametric recipe for,
3·348smoking, parametric recipe for,
3·362Stu� ed Smoky Braised Eggplant,
5·99eggplant chips, parametric recipe for,
3·328eggs, 4·83. See also duck eggs; egg gels;
egg whites; egg yolks; quail eggsallergies to, 1·238baked, two-stage, parametric recipe
for, 4·85baked-good foams and, 4·245boiled, 2·63Chawanmushi, 4·96cold-smoked, parametric recipe for,
4·100cooked whole, 4·74–75
parametric recipe for, 4·78–79Cromesquis, 3·340Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 4·228Deviled Eggs, 4·81Dufresne’s obsession with, 1·67Egg Blossom, 4·80Egg Salad Sandwich, 4·88Eggs Benedict, 4·86emulsions of, 4·226–229fat content of, 5·XLIII
eggs (continued)faux
“Poached” Egg, 4·195Prosciu� o and Melon “Raw Egg,”
4·194FDA Food Code on, 1·184, 185–186,
187Salmonella and, 1·183, 185
FDA safe cooking standards for, 1·170� uid gel properties of, 4·16� uid gels based on, 4·176
development of, 1·66, 68parametric recipe for, 4·177
foam forming with, 4·247, 251, 255Freeze-Dried Egg Yolk, 5·247, 250freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,
2·451French Scrambled Eggs, 4·93fried, two-stage, parametric recipe
for, 4·85Ham and Cheese Omelet, 4·95Hot Egg Mayonnaise, 4·227hot-spring (onsen), 4·75
parametric recipe for cooking, 4·78L’Arpège egg, 5·211Lemon Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel, 4·180Liquid Center Duck Egg, 5·219, 220marinated in vinegar, 4·75Miso-Cured Egg Sheets, 4·87Omelet Base, 5·215, 217omelets in combi oven vs.
conventional oven, 4·95pasteurization of, 1·191, 4·226
FDA Food Code and, 1·185pasteurized, parametric recipe for
cooking, 4·78peeling with liquid nitrogen, how to,
4·78pickled
best bets for, 4·82parametric recipe for, 4·82
plated-dish recipes for, 5·209–221poaching, physics of stirring pot
before, 2·67preserved
best bets for, 4·82parametric recipe for, 4·82
Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast, 4·97safe cooking principles for, 1·194salmonella contamination of, 1·117as sausage binders, 3·223Scrambled Egg Foam, 5·215, 216simpli� ed cooking standards for,
1·192smoked, parametric recipe for, 4·100Smoked Egg Crème Caramel, 4·101So� -Boiled Egg and Garlic
Emulsion, 4·227textures of, 4·76–77thickening with, 4·13volumetric equivalents for amounts
of, 5·XLIVEggs Benedict, 4·86eGullet.org, 1·73Egypt, ancient
foie gras production in, 1·13, 3·136food-related professions in, 1·7Herodotus on beans in, 1·12Horchata drinks in, 4·59locust bean gum used in, 4·124
Einstein, Albert, 1·264Ekman pumping, phenomenon of, 2·67elasticity, gel selection and, 4·73
elastinin abalone and cu� le� sh membranes,
3·52in gizzards, 3·141in heart meat, 3·142
elBulli. See also Adrià, Ferran� rst meal at, experience of, 1·38–39Modernist cuisine and, 1·33–40
elBullitaller, 1·35Elder Flower Vinegar, 2·315electric broilers
wood-� red oven-like performance by, 2·26–27
working features of, 2·20–21electric coils, e� ciency of, 1·274electric � elds
strong, to kill bacteria, 1·149wine storage and, 4·345
electric griddles, 2·40electric whisks, foam forming with,
4·258, 4·259elements, physics of color indicators of
temperature and, 1·291elk
chronic wasting disease in, 1·159hunters, CJD-like disease in, 1·161
emetic agents, Bacillus cereus as, 1·138emission spectra
of blackbodies, 1·285physics of temperature and, 1·291
emissivityof graybodies, 1·286of radiation, 1·285
Emmental cheese, Restructured Emmental Slices, 5·11, 14
emulsi� cation. See also emulsi� ers; emulsions; emulsion-style sausages
Bancro� ’s rule on order for, 4·202mechanism of action, 4·200, 202,
204–205for thickening, 2·346, 4·19
emulsi� ers. See also emulsi� cation; emulsions
characteristics of, 4·200in deep-frying oil, 2·123, 125eggs as, 4·74immiscible substances and, 1·332oils and, 4·13surfactant, 4·216–217, 244
emulsions, 4·196–239. See also emulsi� cation; emulsi� ers
Black Bu� er Emulsion, 5·157, 158bu� er in, 4·218–220cheese as, 4·222–225common, 4·201constructed creams and, 4·236–237dairy, 4·218–229
example recipes for, 4·219–221de� nition of, 4·13droplet sizes in, 4·206egg, 4·226
example recipes for, 4·226–229, 5·233
failure of, 4·210–212foams vs., 4·249G/W (gas-in-water). See foamsHLB values and, chemistry of, 4·204of immiscible substances, 1·332methods for, 4·206–213microemulsions as, 4·205Modernist, 4·214–239nanoemulsions as, 4·238–239
example recipes for, 4·238–239
emulsions (continued)science of, 4·205
optics of, physics of, 4·203other types of, example recipes for,
4·230–235particle size reduction for, 2·398reductions of, 4·11science of, 4·200, 202, 204–205stabilizers for, 4·215for thickening, 4·7thickening and longevity of, 4·5tools for, 4·208types of, 4·199vinaigre� es as, 4·230–231viscosity and, 4·204–205wet-grinding and, 2·412
emulsion-style sausagesbest bets for, 3·238–239characteristics of, 3·222, 225Emulsi� ed Sausage with Fat Gel,
3·248example recipes for, 3·242–243grinding fat and meat separately for,
3·231parametric recipe for, 3·238–239
endemic pathogens, 1·110endive, cooking sous vide, parametric
recipe for, 3·289endomysium, 3·6energy. See also heat; temperature
in animal fat, 3·18converting power units and, 1·273de� ning, 1·264e� ciency and, 1·274–276heat and, 1·263internal, 1·264–265of phase changes by water,
1·300–303power and, 1·272–273
en� euragefor � avor extraction, 2·320solids as solvents in, 1·330technique of, 2·323
England. See also United Kingdomearly gastronomy of, 1·8history of French chefs in, 1·8medieval cuisine in, 1·12
English peas. See green peasenoki mushrooms
Abalone and Foie Gras Shabu-Shabu with Yuba and Enoki, 5·197, 203
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·289
Entamoeba histolytica, 1·129enteritis necroticans, 1·141enthalpy, 1·300–301. See also latent heat
of vaporizationenvelope, of viruses, 1·152environmental contamination, 1·116,
117Enviro-Pak smoker, 2·147enzymes
aging meats and, 3·39, 41carbonation taste and, 2·465clarifying juice or broth with, 2·352cooking meat and seafood and, 3·76,
78–79as � ning agents, 2·358freezing to halt action of, 3·136, 140fruit � avors and, 2·338as gel coagulants, 4·70gelling agents from, 4·126juice extraction with, 2·335, 336
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 72 3/22/11 10:56:35 AM
I N D E X L X X I I I
EXAMPLE RECIPES FOR COOKING PLANT FOODS UNDER PRESSURE Eenzymes (continued)
in liver, 3·138for marinating, 3·195in plant foods, 3·282–284protein-spli� ing, in crustaceans,
3·28thickening with, 4·13, 19transglutaminase as. See Activa;
transglutaminaseEnzyme-Treated Pink Grapefruit, 3·357epidemiology, nutritional, 1·218–220epimysium, 3·6equilibrium
drying with salt and sugar and, 3·346
thermal, cooking eggs to, 4·74, 75thermal energy transfer and, 1·266
equilibrium brining, 3·158how to, 3·170–171
equilibrium cookingin combi ovens, 2·167in water bath at core temperature,
2·243equilibrium dry-curing, 3·165equilibrium relative humidity, 2·430equilibrium vapor pressure, 1·320equilibrium wet-curing, 3·162, 165
how to, 3·170–171equipment. See also tools; speci� c types of
equipment; speci� c toolsfor broiling, 2·20–22for carbonation, 2·286chilling, for water baths, 2·285deep-frying, 2·287dry-grinding, 2·401–402, 404drying, 2·286for foams, 4·258–261freeze-drying, 2·285juicing, 2·332–335laboratory, local laws in U.S. on,
1·94milling, 2·401–402, 404. See also
colloid millspressure � ltration, 2·286sieving, 2·286smoking, 2·146–147, 285, 3·208sous vide, 2·228–241
for home use, 1·73spray-drying, 2·285, 430tenderizing, 2·286used in Modernist Cuisine, 1·93vacuum � ltration, 2·286, 356–357wet-grinding, 2·412–414
erg, 1·272Erice Conferences on Molecular and
Physical Gastronomy, 1·44–46, 65erobertparker.com, 4·330escabeche, Oyster Escabeche, 5·205,
206Escherich, � eodor, 1·112Escherichia coli, 1·116, 134, 137Escherichia coli O157:H7
foodborne illnesses and, 1·118–119outbreak of 2006, politics of, 1·172pathogenicity of, 1·132public health o� cials on outbreak of,
1·169–170temperature for reproduction of,
1·143, 144wine marinade with oregano and,
1·145Esco� er, Auguste
aspics of, 4·68
Esco� er, Auguste (continued)chaudfroid and, 4·151culinary rules and codes of, 1·5, 9,
19–20, 27on food presentation, 1·25introducing Modernist cuisine to,
1·56–57meat embedded in gelatin by, 3·250Sauce Allemande recipe, 4·88stockmaking by, 2·288
escolarabout, 5·175cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·102Escolar with Red Wine Bu� er, 3·104Tuna and Escolar Checkerboard,
5·175, 176espresso, 4·372–390
art of milk and, 4·391–395brewing temperature for, skill for
choosing, 4·385consistency in, 4·396–403cooking with, technique of, 4·371crema on
age of roasted co� ee beans and, 4·361
carbon dioxide and, 4·384chemistry of, 4·388
crotchless porta� lters for, advantages of, 4·385
deca� einated co� ee beans and, 4·363
dosing of, 4·378, 380God shot of. See God shotgrinding beans for. See co� ee beans,
grinding for espresso; espresso grinders
grooming porta� lter for. See grooming espresso porta� lters
instant, 4·371invention of, history of, 4·372in Italy, sociology of, 4·374machines for making. See espresso
machinesNorthern Italian roast of beans for,
4·360pod and capsule systems for,
technology of, 4·400pressure pro� ling and, technology
of, 4·400pulling the shot and, 4·384, 388
common problems with, 4·389how to, 4·386–387
serving temperature of, 4·364single, double, and triple shots of,
evolution of, 4·379stream of, monitoring, 4·384, 387,
388tamping and
evenly, how to, 4·382reasons for, 4·383–384
taxonomy of, 4·393tradition of, in cooking, 1·14
Espresso Co� ee: Professional Techniques (Schomer), 4·399
espresso con panna, 4·393espresso grinders
how to use, 4·377for Modernist kitchen, 2·287
espresso machinesautomatic brewing option of, 4·384cleaning, how to, 4·397cutaway illustration of, 4·402–403
espresso machines (continued)hand-operated vs. electric, 4·372for Modernist kitchen, 2·287pressure pro� ling and, technology
of, 4·400Synesso, 4·372, 374
Espresso Vivace, 4·374, 396, 398, 399essences, aromatic, 2·318–331. See also
extracting � avorsin alcohol, best bets for, 2·326best bets for, 2·325citrus oil, how to wash, 2·321en� eurage and, 2·323extracting, 2·318, 320high quality, 1·250, 252natural, safe handling of, 2·324rotavap for distillation of,
2·384–391supercritical � uid extraction of,
2·320working with, 2·322
essential oils. See also essences, aromaticfor brining or curing, 3·158commercial uses for, 2·318steam distillation of, 2·318, 320
Estragues, Sergi, 4·184ethanol. See alcohol (ethanol); spirits;
speci� c alcoholic beveragesethics, of copying dishes, 1·71ethyl alcohol. See alcohol (ethanol);
spirits; speci� c alcoholic beveragesethylene gas, fruit ripening and,
3·283–284, 285E� ore Majorana Foundation and
Center for Scienti� c Culture, 1·44–46, 65
Europe. See also European Union; speci� c countries
lack of meat-grading system in, 3·36, 39
European Unionon food safety, 1·182food safety disclaimer rules of,
1·178trade dispute on food products and,
1·173evaporation, 1·314–325. See also water
vaporadding cream to co� ee and, 1·289during baking, 2·103, 107blowing on hot food and, 1·288boiling and, 1·315–319concentrating by, 2·379de� nition of, 1·314with Genevac Rocket Evaporator,
2·391–395humidity and, 1·319–321meat tenderness lost in braising or
pot-roasting and, 2·98as reduction, 4·11steam and, 1·319vacuum
for concentrating � avor, 2·380for reducing sauces, jus, or glazes,
2·346of wine, 4·330
vacuum packing and, 2·213, 215evaporative cooling
humidity and, 1·319–320oven temperatures and, 2·155
evapotranspiration, winemaking and, 4·329
Everything Bagel Broth, 4·130
example recipes for acidi� ersElder Flower Vinegar, 2·315Seaweed Vinegar, 2·315
example recipes for ba� er-frying� e Colonel’s Chicken, 3·336Crispy Halibut Cheek, 3·334–335Modernist Fried Chicken, 3·337
example recipes for breadingCromesquis, 3·340Onion Rings, 3·342–343, 5·11
example recipes for brothsBacon Dashi, 2·308Baked Potato Broth, 2·309Bouillabaisse Broth, 2·308Ham Broth, 2·306Hon Dashi, 2·306, 5·197Laksa Broth, 2·307Oxtail Pho Broth, 2·307Sous Vide Vegetable Stock, 2·303Tom Yum Broth, 2·309
example recipes for carbonatingOrange Soda, 2·472Strawberry Milk Shake, 2·473, 5·11
example recipes for centrifugal evaporator, Mock Turtle Soup, 2·394
example recipes for centrifugingCentrifuged Carotene Bu� er, 2·365,
5·185Centrifuged Pea Juice, 2·367Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil,
2·367Tomato Water, 2·366, 5·5, 60
example recipes for compressed and impregnated fruits and vegetables
Clay Potatoes, 3·398Compressed Melon Terrine, 3·392Curry-Impregnated Apple, 3·393Fossilized Salsify Branch, 3·399Frozen White “Tru� e,” 3·400–401Pulled Mushroom, 3·396Squid-Ink Bean-Sprout Riso� o,
3·397Vegetable Coals, 3·395Watermelon Meat, 3·394, 5·285
example recipes for consomméApple Cider Consommé, 2·377Oxtail Consommé, 2·376Pistachio Consommé, 2·376
example recipes for constructed cheeses� e American Cheese Slice, 4·224Cheddar Soup, 4·225Cheese in a Tube, 4·225Cheesy “Whiz,” 4·225
example recipes for constructed creamsHazelnut “Cream,” 4·236Jus Gras, 4·237Pistachio Gelato, 4·236
example recipes for cooking innardsAnkimo Torchon, 3·147Crispy Sweetbreads, 3·150Foie Gras and Bu� on Mushroom
Tart, 3·148Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice
and Sea Le� uce, 3·149Sweetbreads with Sour Mango
Powder and Shiitake, 3·151example recipes for cooking plant foods
under pressureAutoclaved Onion Soup, 3·302Caramelized Carrot Soup, 3·301Crispy Boiled Peanuts, 3·303Pressure-Cooked Sesame Seeds,
3·303, 5·181
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 73 3/22/11 10:56:36 AM
L X X I V I N D E X
E EXAMPLE RECIPES FOR COOKING SKIN
example recipes for cooking skinMonk� sh with Constructed Skin,
3·132Pu� ed Chicken Feet, 3·133Pu� ed Cockscomb, 3·133Ultracrisp Chicken Crown,
3·134–135example recipes for cooking with moist
airCantonese Fried Rice, 2·176–177Combi Oven Rib Eye, 2·180Combi Oven-Steamed Broccoli,
2·181example recipes for cures
Bacon Chips with Bu� erscotch, Apple, and � yme, 3·189
Blackstrap Molasses Country Ham, 3·183
Con� t Cure Mix, 3·179Cured Beef Tenderloin “Bresaola
Style,” 3·185Duck Leg Con� t with Pommes
Sarladaises, 3·178Fluke Cured in Kombu, 3·181Foie Gras Torchon, 3·176Grapefruit-Cured Salmon, 3·180House-Cured Bacon, 3·182, 5·17, 18Microwaved Beef Jerky, 3·184, 5·43Miso-Cured Black Cod, 3·179Salted Halibut, 3·187, 5·151Sea Urchin Bo� arga, 3·186Seafood Paper, 3·188Shaved Foie Gras, 3·177
example recipes for dairy and tofu gelsBurmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa, 4·121Corn Custard, 4·122Deep-Fried Custard, 4·120Edamame Sheets, King Crab,
Cinnamon Dashi, 4·118Firm Tofu, 4·112Flourless Gnocchi, 4·119Fresh Cheese Curds, 4·106–107Goat Cheese Dumplings, 4·105Goat Milk Rico� a, 4·108Green Pea Yuba, 4·115Idiazábal Gnocchi, 4·123Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and
Tru� e Puree, 4·114Modernist Burrata, 4·109Mozzarella Balloons, 4·110–111Peanut “Tofu,” 4·122Salmon Custard, 4·119Silken Tofu, 4·113Sour Cream Spaetzle (Csipetke),
4·117, 5·55, 59example recipes for dairy emulsions
Beet Flexicurd, 4·219Broiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier
Bu� er, 4·220Hot Blood Pudding Custard, 4·221Poached Lobster, 4·219Ultrastable Beurre Blanc, 4·219
example recipes for dehydrated fruits and vegetables
Crystallized Rose Petals, 3·368Mandarin Leather, 3·369Pineapple Glass, 3·370Spinach Paper, 3·369Sweet Pea Wafer, 3·371
example recipes for distillingBuddha’s Hand Vodka, 2·389Vacuum-Concentrated Apple and
Cabbage Juice, 2·389
example recipes for egg emulsionsBacon Jam, 4·229Basic Mayonnaise, 4·226, 5·233Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 4·228Hot Egg Mayonnaise, 4·227So� -Boiled Egg and Garlic
Emulsion, 4·227Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise,
4·228Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 4·227
example recipes for egg gelsAsparagus Royale, 4·94for blended egg gels, 4·93–99Cauli� ower Crème Anglaise, 4·89Century Egg, 4·83Chawanmushi, 4·96Chorizo French Toast, 4·98–99for cooked whole eggs, 4·80–81Dashimaki Tamago, 4·94Deviled Eggs, 4·81Egg Blossom, 4·80Egg Salad Sandwich, 4·90Eggs Benedict, 4·86French Scrambled Eggs, 4·93Ham and Cheese Omelet, 4·95Miso-Cured Egg Sheets, 4·87Olive Marmalade, 4·99Parmesan Crème Brûlée, 4·88Pecorino with Tru� e Honey on
Cedar, 4·101Pickled Quail Eggs, 4·83for preserved and pickled eggs, 4·83Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast, 4·97Sauce Allemande, 4·88for separated egg gels, 4·86–91Smoked Egg Crème Caramel, 4·101for smoked eggs, 4·101
example recipes for emulsion-style sausages
Boudin Blanc, 3·243Frankfurters, 3·242Italian Sausage, 3·242
example recipes for extracting � avor with alcohol
Fines Herbes Extract, 2·327House Bi� ers, 2·327
example recipes for fermented sausageFast-Cured Pepperoni, 3·247Saucisson Sec, 3·247
example recipes for � sh and shell� sh sous vide
Escolar with Red Wine Bu� er, 3·104Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused
Milk, 3·10319th-Century-Style Lobster with
Sherry and Cocoa, 3·107Shrimp Cocktail, 3·107Steelhead Trout Con� t with Fennel
Salad, 3·106Turbot with Onion and Marrow
Broth, 3·105example recipes for � avor infusion into
fatsCurry Oil, 2·331Molasses Bu� er, 2·331Shell� sh Bu� er, 2·329Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 2·330Spiced Chili Oil, 2·330
example recipes for � avor-infused liquids, Sous Vide Ponzu, 2·313
example recipes for � uid gelsFizzy Grape Fluid Gel, 4·183Hot and Cold Tea, 4·182
example recipes for � uid gels (continued)Lemon Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel, 4·180Onion Fluid Gel, 4·183Parmesan “Polenta,” 4·181Passion Fruit Jelly, 4·180Popcorn Pudding, 4·181Umami Seasoning Fluid Gel, 4·183
example recipes for freeze-dried vegetables
Caesar Salad, 3·373Freeze-Dried Onion Powder, 3·373,
5·261example recipes for freeze-drying
Freeze-Dried Beef Gravy Granules, 2·454
Ramen Stock Powder, 2·455Ramen Vegetables, 2·455, 5·247Salted, Freeze-Dried Lobster, 2·454,
5·185example recipes for froths, airs, and
bubblesCappuccino Foam, 4·266Citrus Air, 4·265Edible Bar Soap with Honey
Bubbles, 4·267Geoduck with Seawater Foam, 4·266Kanpachi Sashimi with Citrus
Foam, 4·269Lychee and Lime Soda, 4·268Oysters with Mignone� e Air, 4·265
example recipes for fruit and vegetable chips
Restructured Potato Chips, 3·330Watermelon Chips, 3·328
example recipes for fruit purees, Pistachio Puree, 2·427
example recipes for frying vegetablesDeep-Fried Brussels Sprouts, 3·321Pectinase-Steeped Fries, 3·324Pommes Pont-Neuf, 3·323Starch-Infused Fries, 3·324Starch-Infused Ultrasonic Fries,
3·325Ultrasonic Fries, 3·325, 5·11
example recipes for grinding, milling, and pureeing
Chili Tomato Spice Blend, 2·403Citrus Spice, 2·404Exotic Spice Mixture, 2·405Indies Spice Blend, 2·403Licorice Powder, 2·405Quatre Épices, 2·403, 5·35, 125Ras el Hanout, 2·405Romesco Sauce, 2·419Shrimp and Grits, 3·377
example recipes for hot- and cold-smoked meats and seafood
Beef Cheek Pastrami, 3·213Russian Smoked Salmon, 3·212Smoked Octopus, 3·215
example recipes for hydrocolloid gelsAgar Carbonara, 4·161Boeuf in Gelée, 4·163Cauli� ower Panna Co� a, 4·142Chili Pearls, 4·145for cold gels, 4·141–149Crimini in Amber, 4·154Dill Spheres, 4·130Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade,
4·169Everything Bagel Broth, 4·130Foie Gras Cherries, 4·153Foie Gras Parfait Spheres, 4·152
example recipes for hydrocolloid gels (continued)
Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and Hibiscus Glaze, 4·158–159
Guinness “Pâte de Fruit,” 4·145Halibut in Verbena Bubble,
4·156–157Hot Banana Gel, 4·166Hot Green Apple Gel, 4·166Hot Orange Gel, 4·167Hot Quince Gel, 4·167, 5·121Instant Tofu Noodles, 4·172Knot Foie, 4·144Long Island Iced Tea Gel Shot, 4·141Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin,
4·175Olive Oil Gummy Worms, 4·147Olive Oil Noodles, 4·146Potato Beignets with Caviar, 4·174Quinoa and Idiazábal with Bonito
Stock Veil, 4·168Salmon Poached in Licorice, 4·155Shell� sh Custard, 4·162Squid Ink Fluid Gel, 4·131Sunny-Side Up “Eggs,” 4·148–149Sweet Pea Clusters, 4·173Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghe� o,
4·143example recipes for hydrocolloid
thickenersBBQ Caramels, 4·62Beef Tenderloin with Jus de Roti,
4·54Caramelized Coconut Cream, 4·50Creamed Spinach, 4·55Crispy Cream Cheese, 4·63Edible Wrappers, 4·62Ham Consommé with Melon Beads,
4·48Herbed Cheese Spread, 4·57Horchata (Chufa Milk), 4·59House Barbecue Sauce, 4·49, 5·67Instant Crème Fraîche, 4·57Lemon Strips, 4·61Low Fat “Cream,” 4·57Olive Oil Spread, 4·51Pressure-Cooked Polenta with
Strawberry Marinara, 4·50Soy Milk, 4·58Toasted Almond Milk, 4·59Toasted Rice Milk, 4·59Tomato Whey Broth, 4·49Tru� e Jus, 4·53Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesto
Salad, 4·53White Grape Syrup, 4·52XO Sauce, 4·52
example recipes for infusing essences, Hazelnut Oil Extract, 2·321
example recipes for juicingGreen Asparagus and Morels with
Asparagus Jus, 2·341Melon Water, 2·340Meyer Lemonade, 2·340Sous Vide Berry Juice, 2·340
example recipes for jusJus de la Presse, 2·347Lamb Garlic Jus in a Jar, 2·348, 5·25Mushroom Jus, 2·348Sous Vide Beef Juice, 2·349Sous Vide Mussel Juice, 2·346Sous Vide Prawn Jus, 2·347Sous Vide Rare Beef Jus, 2·349
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 74 3/22/11 10:56:36 AM
I N D E X L X X V
EEXUDATE GUM
example recipes for jus (continued)Sous Vide Vegetable Jus, 2·347
example recipes for light foamsBlood Orange Foam, 4·272Corn Foam, 4·273Grapefruit and Black Pepper, 4·276Lemon Verbena and Peach Froth,
4·273Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino,
4·275Oysters with Cava Foam, 4·277Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam,
4·276Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot
Sabayon, 4·274Whipped Cheese, 4·272
example recipes for marinatingBeet Juice-Fed Oysters, 3·206, 5·233Chicken Tikka Masala, 3·204Fluke Ceviche, 3·203Gong Bao Chicken, 3·205Kalbi Flank Steak, 3·199Lute� sk, 3·200Tuna Ribbons with Ginger
Marmalade, 3·202Yakitori, 3·201
example recipes for microwaved vegetables
Artichoke and Potato Chaat, 3·313Microwave-Fried Parsley, 3·312Sichuan Bok Choy, 3·313Tomato Powder, 3·312
example recipes for Modernist sausagesCoarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 3·248Emulsi� ed Sausage with Fat Gel,
3·248Fried Chicken Sausage, 3·249Low-Fat Chicken Sausage, 3·248Rare Beef Sausage, 3·249
example recipes for nanoemulsionsChilled Chicken-Noodle Soup,
4·238Ginger Cola, 4·239
example recipes for other emulsionsBlack Olive Puree, 4·230Eggless Citrus Curd, 4·234Eggless Mayonnaise, 4·232Invincible Vinaigre� e, 4·231Mustard Vinaigre� e, 4·231Olive Oil “Margarine,” 4·235Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage,
4·233� ickened Oil, 4·230
example recipes for PacojetFrozen Cheddar-Cheese Powder,
2·411Frozen Crème-Frâiche and Pine-Nut
Cream, 2·411Mozzarella Powder, 2·411Pacojet Pea Soup, 2·410
example recipes for pastaHerb-Embedded Pasta Veil, 3·383,
5·253Mac and Cheese, 3·387Pad � ai, 3·385Pasta Marinara, 3·386Semolina Pasta, 3·382Spaghe� i Carbonara, 3·384
example recipes for pastas, Semolina Pasta, 3·382
example recipes for potato purees, Potato Puree, 3·296
example recipes for pu� ed snacksBlack Sesame Rice Crisps, 4·304Cheese Pu� s, 4·305Pommes Sou� ées, 4·306Pu� ed Chickpeas, 4·307Scallop Mochi, 4·308–309, 5·197,
202Tapioca Starch Cracker, 4·303
example recipes for riso� osPressure-Cooked Vegetable Riso� o,
3·308Riso� o Milanese, 3·306–307Root Vegetable Riso� o, 3·309Sous Vide Clam and Oat Riso� o,
3·308example recipes for Rocket Evaporator,
Mock Turtle Soup, 2·394example recipes for salting, pickling,
and fermentingCrispy Dosa, 3·355Enzyme-Treated Pink Grapefruit,
3·357Garlic Con� t, 3·354, 5·25, 60, 81Kimchi, 3·352Nukazuke, 3·354Preserved Lemons, 3·350, 5·135Sauerkraut, 3·351Sous Vide Cucumber Pickles, 3·353Yuzu and Kumquat Marmalade,
3·356example recipes for set foams
Beet Meringue, 4·295Cryopoached Green Tea Sour, 4·291Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam, 4·300Green Olive Meringue, 4·298Green Tea Cake, 4·292Gruyère Sou� é, 4·301Hot Apricot Marshmallow, 4·293Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake,
4·294Passion Fruit Marshmallow with
Chorizo Powder, 4·290Siphoned Sou� é á la Lorraine, 4·297Soy Sauce Cloud, 4·299Steamed Blancmange, 4·296Whipped Yogurt Crisps, 4·292
example recipes for smoked plant foods, Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune Sabayon, 3·363
example recipes for spheri� cation, 4·194Carbonated Mojito Spheres, 4·188Gruyère Spheres, 4·190Liquid Pimento Olive, 4·193Melon Caviar, 4·189Mussels in Mussel Juice Spheres,
4·191“Poached” Egg, 4·195Prosciu� o and Melon “Raw Egg,”
4·194Tomato Spheres with Basil Oil,
4·192example recipes for spray dryer
Spray-Dried Blood Orange Juice, 2·443
Spray-Dried Bu� ermilk, 2·443example recipes for starch thickeners
Almond Polenta, 4·36Bacon Powder Squares, 4·34Corn Pebbles, 4·36Edible Earth, 4·37Jerusalem Artichoke Pudding, 4·31Malt Vinegar Powder, 4·34Modernist Béchamel, 4·31
example recipes for starch thickeners (continued)
Parmesan Nuggets, 4·35Pregelatinized Starch Paste, 4·29Steamed Cod with Cod Roe Velouté,
4·32� anksgiving Turkey Gravy, 4·33Turkey Wing, 4·33Vanilla Olive Oil Powder, 4·35
example recipes for stocksBrown Beef Stock, 2·301Brown Veal Stock, 2·300Pressure-Cooked White Chicken
Stock, 2·301Sous Vide Fish Stock, 2·303
example recipes for tartares and raw meat
Beef and Oyster Tartare, 3·66Hanger Steak Tartare, 3·65Red-Onion Cream, 3·68Salmon Tartare Cornets, 3·68Scallop Tartare, 3·67
example recipes for tender meats sous vide
Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard Marmalade and Porcini, 3·97
Venison Loin Rossini, 3·98example recipes for tender poultry sous
videPigeon with Shell� sh Bu� er, 3·100Poulet au Feu d’Enfer, 3·100Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion
and Water Chestnuts, 3·101example recipes for thick foams
Baked Potato Foam, 4·281, 5·193Barbecued Eel with Whipped
Caramel, 4·283Chocolate Chantilly, 4·281Coconut Chutney Foam, 4·282Dairy-Free Whipped Cream, 4·283Eggplant Foam, 4·280Horseradish Foam, 4·284Hot Bu� er Foam, 4·283Instant Swiss Meringue, 4·284Uni with Whipped Tofu and
Tapioca, 4·285Whipped Bu� er, 4·286Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato
Chips, 4·287example recipes for tough meats and
shell� shMicrowaved Tilapia with Scallions
and Ginger, 3·115Pressure-Cooked Carnitas, 3·114Razor Clam with Sauce Verte, 3·112Sous Vide and Pressure-Cooked
Veal Breast with Bulbous Vegetables, 3·111
Squid Sicilian Lifeguard-Style, 3·113Suckling Pig Shoulder with Shallot
and Orange Sauce, 3·110example recipes for vacuum-set foams
Aerated Chocolate, 4·313Aerated Co� ee Ice Cream, 4·312Aerated Foie Gras, 4·311Aerated Gruyère, 4·312Aerated Mango Sorbet, 4·311
example recipes for vegetable pureesBlack Tru� e Concentrate, 2·427,
5·216Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil Puree,
2·426
example recipes for vegetable purees (continued)
Celery Root Mousseline, 2·427, 5·126
Creamed Watercress, 2·426, 5·5exoskeletons, of crustaceans, 3·28, 30Exotic Spice Mixture, 2·405experimental cooking, McGee on,
1·57–58exponential growth, of bacteria, 1·142exsanguination, 3·32extenders, in sausage, 3·226extracellular � uid, in raw foods,
1·305–306extracting � avors, 2·288–317. See also
essences, aromaticacidi� ers and, 2·314–316with alcohol, 2·317
example recipes for, 2·327parametric recipe for, 2·326
co� ee brewing and, 4·364cryoextraction of wine and, 2·396infused liquids, 2·310measuring salinity and, 2·313pressure-cooking for, 2·291–295salt for seasoning and, 2·312science of best tasting � avors and,
2·299size of ingredients and, 2·290–291sous vide technique of, 2·251for stocks, 2·296–298stocks as basis for sauces and, 2·288
extraction percentage, brewing control chart on, 4·366–367
extracts, in alcohol, best bets for using, 2·325
exudate gum, 4·19
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 75 3/22/11 10:56:36 AM
L X X V I I N D E X
FACULTATIVE ANAEROBIC BACTERIAFFfacultative anaerobic bacteria, 1·130,
138Fahrenheit 451 (Bradbury), 2·137Fahrenheit temperature scale, 1·266,
285Fair Trade co� ee, 4·361falling-rate period
in baking, 2·107–108in deep-frying, 2·116, 117
Faraday, Michael, 1·60Farce Royale, 5·126, 132Farm Direct, Fair Trade co� ee and,
4·361farmer’s cheese, parametric recipe for,
4·104farming, early civilization and
development of, 1·6–7fascicles, 3·6, 8, 11Fasciola gigantica, 1·123Fasciola hepatica, 1·123fascioliasis, 1·123fast food
corporate control of, 1·22–24development of, 1·20–22
fast hot-spring eggs, parametric recipe for cooking, 4·78
fast hot-spring quail eggs, parametric recipe for cooking, 4·78
Fast-Cured Pepperoni, 3·247fast-fermented sausages, 3·246fast-twitch muscles
fat content and, 3·18in � sh, 3·21in meat, 3·11–12
meat color and, 3·14–15in scallops, 3·26slow-twitch muscles vs., 3·11–12
fat, dietarybene� cial forms of, 1·231–232, 234chemistry of, 1·233cholesterol and, 1·222, 224–227colorectal cancer risk and, 1·214heart disease and, 1·229–230obesity and, 1·243trans fat as, 1·230–231
� e Fat Duck. See also Blumenthal, Heston
food poisoning at, 1·155food science and, 1·49–50plant food cooking at, 3·278
� e Fat Flush Plan (Gi� leman), 1·248fats
around kidneys, 3·141characteristics and cooking with,
3·144cooking vegetables sous vide with,
parametric recipe for, 3·292dietary. See fat, dietaryextracting � avor with, 2·323� avor infusion into, parametric
recipe for, 2·328–329� avor release and, 4·11as foam inhibitor, 4·257foams based on, 4·244, 247freeze-drying of, 2·447frictional heat and, 3·230grinding meat and, how to, 3·228in meat, 3·15, 18
� avor and, 3·87–88
fats (continued)rendering strategies for, 3·145saturated. See also cholesterol
characteristics of, 1·222French cuisine and, 1·228
in sausage, 3·223, 224–225in seafood, � avor and, 3·87–88separating from cream, 2·366, 368smoking, parametric recipe for,
3·362smoking meat or seafood and, 2·145subcutaneous
cooking issues for, 3·118rendering, 3·122
as tough cut, science of, 3·83truite au bleu and, 3·40in tuna, 3·21volumetric equivalents for amounts
of, 5·XLIVin Wagyu beef, 3·19, 36washing, for � avor extraction,
2·320–321whipped cream and, 4·244
fa� y acidscharacteristics of, 1·222research on health and, 1·234
faucet aspirators, 2·284, 356faucet handles, personal hygiene and,
1·200fava beans
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·292
Fresh Bean Salad, 5·85, 87Fricassee of Fava Beans and Lychees,
5·171, 173FDA. See FDA Food Code; U.S. Food
and Drug Administration (FDA)FDA Food Code
on cooking timesfor beef, 1·121for chicken, 1·180, 181for lamb, 1·121for pork, 1·121, 179, 180speci� c cooking times and
temperatures and, 1·184–189on “danger zone,” 1·175–179di� erent foods and di� erent rules of,
1·174–175egg pasteurization and, 1·185Salmonella time and temperature
curves, 1·187on temperature but not time of
cooking, 1·174temperature rounding in, 1·174on thermal death curves, 1·182–189understanding, 1·182–189
fecal contaminationanimal, 1·116–117hygiene and, 1·196–197, 200plant foods and, 1·197
fecal load, foodborne illnesses and, 1·115–116
fecal-oral route, for foodborne pathogens, 1·116
feline spongiform encephalopathy, 1·159
femtograms, weight of bacteria in, 1·130fennel bulbs
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·289
Steelhead Trout Con� t with Fennel Salad, 3·106
fennel seed extract, parametric recipe for, 2·326
fermentationbacterial role in, 1·133–134in co� ee processing, 4·358drying with warm air and, 2·433example recipes for, 3·352, 357hydrocolloids from, 4·124marinating and, 3·198parametric recipe for, 3·348–349of plant foods, 3·344, 346in winemaking, 4·330
fermented pickles, parametric recipe for, 3·349
fermented sausagesbest bets for, 3·244–245characteristics of, 3·222example recipes for, 3·247history of, 3·246immune-compromised people and,
3·223other ingredients in, 3·226–227parametric recipe for, 3·244–245preparation of, 3·246, 250
Fermented Shrimp Sheets, 5·167, 168Fermento, for sausage, 3·227� ber, dietary
colorectal cancer and, 1·214–217heart disease and, 1·216plants and, 3·267research on colon cancer and, 1·217
Fick, Adolf, 2·290Fick’s law of di� usion, 2·283, 290, 343� ddlehead ferns, Stir-Fried Fiddlehead
Ferns, 5·113, 119� gs
compressing and impregnating, parametric recipe for, 3·390
Pickled Figs, 5·135, 137preserving, parametric recipe for,
3·348� llers, sausage, 3·226, 231� lm boiling, 1·316� lm condensate, steaming and, 1·319,
2·70� lms, edible, 4·6
best bets for, 4·60Edible Wrappers, 4·62parametric recipe for, 4·60
� lter paperfor co� ee brewing, 4·368for vacuum � ltration, 2·354
� ltering, 2·350–377with agar, 2·372–373centrifuges for, 2·360–368for co� ee brewing, 4·368decanting wine and, 4·342, 343–344� ning agents for, 2·358, 360with gelatin ice, 2·368–371juice extraction and, 2·239by oysters, 3·27pressure, 2·353–355separating emulsions with, 4·212straining and sieving for, 2·351, 353strategies for, 2·352uses of, 2·351vacuum, 2·286, 4·352–358
description of, 2·352, 358, 4·353–354
equipment for, 2·286, 356–357how to, 2·357of wine, 4·344
Fines Herbes Extract, 2·327
� ningagents for, 2·358–360with bentonite or polyclar, 2·352
� no sherry, Sauce Vin Jaune, 5·113, 116� re
dra� and, 2·7for smoking, 3·208, 211
� re bricks, as graybodies, 1·286Firm Tofu, 4·112Firmenich, 1·51Fischler, Claude, 1·26� sh. See also speci� c types of � sh
aging, 3·41allergies to, 1·238anisakid infections and, 1·122–123biology of, 3·22–23Bouillabaisse Broth, 2·308brining, parametric recipe for, 3·172cold-smoking, parametric recipe for,
3·210combi ovens vs. water bath cooking
of, 2·167cooking
on bone, 2·243ideal temperature for, 3·89
cooking sous videbest bets for, 3·102example recipes for, 3·103–106parametric recipe for, 3·102–103
curing, parametric recipe for, 3·172cu� ing, 3·52dissolved oxygen for, 1·332–333fat oxidation in, 2·201FDA Food Code on, 1·170, 184,
185–186, 187Fish and Chips plated-dish recipe,
5·143–145� at, � lleting, 3·57freezing, 1·194, 3·37freshwater, tapeworms and, 1·124frozen, 3·37ike jime slaughtering of, 3·35, 37Kanpachi Sashimi with Citrus
Foam, 4·269plated-dish recipes for, 5·141–177safe cooking principles for, 1·191Seafood Paper, 3·188simpli� ed freezing
recommendations for, 1·192skin of. See � sh skinslaughtering practices and, 3·35smoked, example recipe for, 3·212Sous Vide Fish Stock, 2·303sous vide for, 2·198spoiled, risks of, 1·139tender, cooking sous vide,
parametric recipe for, 3·102tough, example recipes for, 3·115trimmings, for searing � avor without
presearing, 2·268typical, fat content of, 5·XLIIIvacuum packing of, 2·212whole, reconstructing with Activa,
3·256� sh eyes, in thickening, 4·20, 27� sh � u, 1·124� sh roe. See also bo� arga; caviar
cold-smoking, parametric recipe for, 3·210
Fossilized Salsify Branch, 3·399Steamed Cod with Cod Roe Velouté,
4·32� sh sauce, Asian, 3·195
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 76 3/22/11 10:56:36 AM
I N D E X L X X V I I
FOOD AND HEALTH DEBATES F� sh skin
cooking, 3·129–132crispy cooking of, 3·130
how to, 3·130slime as key to, 3·129sous vide, 3·131
pillows and, 3·131Salmon Skin Sou� é, 5·161, 163
Fish Spice Mix, 5·151, 154� sh stock, parametric recipe for,
2·296–297Fizz-Giz system, 3·198, 207� zziness. See also carbonation
science of taste of, 2·465unwanted associations with, 2·464
Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel, 4·183� agella, of bacteria, 1·130Flame Firebox, Inverted, invention of,
3·208Flaming Sorbet, memory and nostalgia
in, 1·51� an, savory
parametric recipe for, 4·92Smoked Egg Crème Caramel, 4·101
� ash boiling, 1·317� ash points, of frying oils, 2·126� ash-freezing, 1·306–307� at� sh, � lleting, 3·57� atiron steak, seam cu� ing of, 3·47� avor-infused liquids
example recipe for, 2·313parametric recipe for, 2·310
� avorsalcohol and, 2·317arti� cial, food quality and, 1·250,
252best tasting, science of, 2·299bi� er, 5·226changes in frozen foods, chemistry
of, 2·261co� ee brewing and, 4·364, 366–370concentrating, 2·379–397of con� t, 2·128, 129cooking meat and seafood and, 3·84,
87–91of espresso, 4·384essences of. See essences, aromaticextracting. See essences, aromatic;
extracting � avorsfat molecules and, 3·18freeze � ltration and, 2·369freezing and, 1·304, 3·374of gazpacho, 5·278infusing with sous vide, 2·251infusion into fats
example recipes for, 2·329–331parametric recipe for, 2·328–329
of Jell-O shot, 4·70of juice
how to keep fresh taste of, 2·339preserving fresh taste of, 2·338
of le� over meats, chemistry of, 3·91Maillard reaction and, 2·198, 3·89–91marinades and, 3·190nitrites in bacon and, 3·165o� , microbes and, 1·135pH of, measuring, 2·316plant food cooking and, 3·273, 278release of
gel selection and, 4·73modern thickeners and, 4·5thickener selection and, 4·10–11,
15, 17
� avors (continued)reusing deep-frying oil and, 2·123,
124roasting co� ee for, 4·358, 360–361of roux, cooked, 4·22salinity of, measuring, 2·313of saturated vs. unsaturated oils,
2·126savory, for French toast, 4·98seasoning with salt and other
enhancers of, 2·312size of ingredients and, 2·290–291of smoke
capturing, 2·138, 3·211chemistry of, 2·12
smoke rings and, 2·145sous vide and, 2·251taste testing and. See taste testingthickener selection and, 4·14water bath ho� er than target
temperature and, 2·245wine color and, 4·334–335, 338
Flay, Bobby, 1·30� ipping food
for sautéing, 2·46–47for speed and evenness in cooking,
2·38–39� occulation, as emulsion failure, 4·210,
212Flojel 60, thickening with, parametric
recipe for, 4·30� our
converting grams to volumes for, 5·XXXVI
gluten as bread � our-binder and, 3·376
instant, thickening with, 4·22, 30milling of, 3·376organic food movement perception
of, 1·253rice, 3·376
rice � our pasta and, parametric recipe for, 3·381
sauces thickened by, � avor release and, 4·11
for set foams, parametric recipe for, 4·288–289
so� wheat, 5·13, 77volumetric equivalents for amounts
of, 5·XLIVWondra, thickening with, 4·22, 30
parametric recipe for, 4·30Flourless Gnocchi, 4·119� owers
Blossom Salad, 5·171, 172Crystallized Rose Petals, 3·368dehydrating, parametric recipe for,
3·366Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and
Hibiscus Glaze, 4·158–159� uid gels, 4·176–184
best bets for, 4·177characteristics of, 4·176coarse, 4·179cold foams as, 4·244–245concentrated premade stock gels
and, 4·179egg gels turned into, 4·74egg-based, 1·66example recipes for, 4·180–183� ow of, 4·70foam forming with, 4·255LA gellan gum concentrations for, 4·V
� uid gels (continued)parametric recipe for, 4·177–179quick-se� ing, 4·179as shear-thinning liquids, 4·16stock, premade, concentrated, 4·179as thickeners, 2·346, 4·19
� uidized bed freezing, 1·307. See also blast freezers
� uke (� sh)Fluke Ceviche, 3·203Fluke Cured in Kombu, 3·181
� ukes (worms), 1·123–124disease caused by, 1·120liver, 1·123–124salmon-poisoning � uke, 1·124
foaming agentsin beer, 4·250, 254categories of, 4·244foam stabilizers and, 4·257gelatin as, 4·244–245Modernist, 4·255traditional, 4·251
foam-whipping siphon. See whipping siphons
foams, 4·240–315. See also foaming agents
airs as, best bets for, 4·264antifoaming agents and. See
antifoaming agentsba� ers as, 3·316bubbles as, best bets for, 4·264Cauli� ower Foam, 5·281, 283emulsions vs., science of, 4·249equipment for, 4·258–261example recipes for, 4·266faces and aspects of, 4·262–263foaming agents and. See foaming
agentson food surface, sublimation and,
2·444forming, 4·252–315Fried Egg Foam, 5·211, 212froths as, best bets for, 4·264geometry of, 4·246Guinness beer and, 4·250–251Horchata Foam, 5·239, 244inhibitors of, 4·244, 247, 257light, 4·270–277
best bets for, 4·270example recipes for, 4·272–277parametric recipe for, 4·270
mechanism of action of, 4·244–251milk, for espresso, 4·391–395Milk Foam, 5·31, 33Modernist, 4·255Parsley Foam, 5·229, 231pu� ed snacks as, 4·302–309rheologic descriptions of, 4·VIIISa� ron Honey Foam, 5·94savory, Adrià’s use of, 1·36, 4·254Scrambled Egg Foam, 5·215, 216set. See set foamsspreading use of, 1·73stabilizers for
categories of, 4·244Modernist, 4·255for traditional foams, 4·247types of, 4·257
thick. See thick foamsfor thickening, 4·7, 19thickening and longevity of, 4·5Tomato Vinegar Foam, 5·60, 65traditional, 4·247
foams (continued)vacuum in� ation for forming, 4·252,
254, 310–315vacuum-drying and, 2·433
fog, steam compared to, 1·319, 2·71foie gras
Abalone and Foie Gras Shabu-Shabu with Yuba and Enoki, 5·197, 203
Aerated Foie Gras, 4·311in ancient Egypt, 1·13, 3·136cold-smoking, parametric recipe for,
3·210cooking directly from frozen, 1·313cooking sous vide, 3·140
parametric recipe for, 3·146Cromesquis, 3·340Foie Gras à la Vapeur plated-dish
recipe, 5·109–111Foie Gras and Bu� on Mushroom
Tart, 3·148Foie Gras and Hazelnut Ganache,
5·125, 128Foie Gras Cherries, 4·153, 5·267,
268, 269Foie Gras Parfait, 5·267, 268, 269Foie Gras Parfait Spheres, 4·152Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice
and Sea Le� uce, 3·149Foie Gras Torchon, 3·176Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and
Hibiscus Glaze, 4·158–159hepatic steatosis and, pathology of,
3·139history of, 3·138Knot Foie, 4·144liquid nitrogen for freezing,
1·310–311production of, 3·138, 140Shaved Foie Gras, 3·177Sous Vide Foie Gras, 5·109, 110Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage,
4·233Venison Loin Rossini, 3·98
Fonalleras, Josep Maria, 1·62fond, 2·343. See also stocksfood. See also speci� c foods and types of
foodsphysics of, 1·292–335. See also water
food allergies, 1·238–239Food and Drug Administration (FDA).
See FDA Food Code; U.S. Food and Drug Administration
food and health debates, 1·208–259on additives, 1·252–254on Atkins diet, 1·242on chemical processing of food,
1·250–252, 256on cleansing toxins from the body,
1·248dietary systems and, 1·214–249
dietary � ber, 1·214–217medical, 1·222–239nonmedical, 1·240–249testing disease risk and, 1·218–222
on fatbene� cial forms of, 1·231–232, 234in bu� er vs. margarine, 1·230–231chemistry of, 1·233cholesterol and, 1·222, 224–227heart disease and, 1·229–230
on French cuisine, 1·228on grilled meat and � sh, 1·221informed decisions in, 1·258–259
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 77 3/22/11 10:56:37 AM
L X X V I I I I N D E X
FOOD AND HEALTH DEBATESFfood and health debates (continued)
on Modernist ingredients, 1·250–259natural ingredients vs., 1·254–255
on MSG, 1·213on natural ingredients, 1·257
Modernist ingredients vs., 1·254–255
on natural toxins, 1·249on organic food, 1·245–247on raw food, 1·247–249on salt, 1·234, 236–238scienti� c analysis of, 1·210–212on Spectrum diet, 1·242on vegetarianism, 1·244on vitamin supplements, 1·235on weight loss diets, 1·240–241on Weight Watchers, 1·241on Zone diet, 1·242
food hygiene. See also food safetysous vide and, 2·199, 201
food intolerances, 1·239food labels, 1·214, 239food mills, 2·400, 401. See also milling
ball, for dry-grinding, 2·401colloid. See colloid millsdouble-disc, 2·404pin-and-disc, 2·404roller, for dry-grinding, 2·404single-disc, for dry-grinding, 2·404
food poisoning, 1·110, 138bacteria causing, 1·133
food preservation, 3·344–373. See also additives; preservatives; speci� c preservation methods
anaerobic bacteria and, 1·136, 138best bets for, 3·348boiling-water canning for, 2·82–83chemicals for, 1·144–145of eggs, best bets for, 4·82food science and, 1·48by hunter-gatherers, 1·6of plant foods, 3·344–373refrigeration, freezing, and canning
for, 2·75food presses, for juicing, 2·332, 334food processors
breaking down food with, 2·400for emulsifying sausage, 3·225, 231,
233invention of, 2·412wet-grinding with, 2·412
food safety, 1·162–207chemistry of nitrates, nitrites, and
nitrosamines and, 3·160chicken and, misconceptions about,
1·180–181considerations for, 1·101cross-contamination and. See cross-
contaminationcultural factors in, 1·170–171, 173“danger zone” and, 1·175–179disclaimers and, rules of, 1·178drying with warm air and, 2·432–433egg garnishes on tartares and, 3·63extracting and infusing � avors and,
2·251FDA Food Code on. See FDA Food
Codefoodborne pathogens and, 1·115–116freeze-drying and, 2·447government bureaucracy and
changes in, 1·173
food safety (continued)Hazard Analysis and Critical Control
Point assessment and, 1·195holding temperature and,
misconceptions about, 1·175–176hygiene and. See hygieneJaccard tenderizers and, 3·51microbial contamination and, 1·105misconceptions about, 1·174–181Modernist cuisine and, 1·255Modernist Cuisine philosophy on, 1·191multiple water baths at di� erent
temperatures and, 2·247–249Myhrvold on writing about, 1·83natural essences and, 2·324natural pesticides and, 1·245organic foods and, 1·247pasteurization and, 2·250pathogenic strains of E. coli and, 1·137political factors in, 1·170–171, 173pork, misconceptions about,
1·179–180public health and rules on, 1·169–170rapid chilling and, 2·254raw shell� sh and, 3·27–28rules for
complex origins of, 1·166–173scienti� c simpli� cation of,
1·190–195sous vide and, 2·201trends in, factors in� uencing, 1·169of uncured con� t, 2·128water baths ho� er than target
temperature and, 2·245worrisome signs when curing and,
3·164Food Safety and Inspection Service
(FSIS)on chicken cooking times, 1·181on pork cooking times, 1·179Salmonella reduction standards of,
1·168on thin roasts vs. thick steaks, 1·187
food sciencedevelopment of, 1·42, 44–49history of, 1·48industrialization of food and
development of, 1·24McGee on, 1·43
food size. See also portionsbatch size and consistent baking and,
2·111, 112combi ovens vs. water bath cooking
and, 2·167conduction and, 1·279cook-chill sous vide method and,
2·256deep-frying and, 2·117drying with warm air and, 2·432� avor extraction and, 2·288, 290–291freeze-drying and, 2·446–447microwave cooking and, 2·183, 188,
189reducing. See particle size reductionroasting and, 2·28, 32sautéing and, 2·44sous vide cooking times and,
2·276–279stir-frying and, 2·54in water bath ho� er than � nal
temperature, 2·246food thickness
convection baking and, 2·110
food thickness (continued)sous vide cooking times and,
2·276–279foodborne illnesses, 1·110–119
common misconceptions about, 1·117–119
contamination routes for, 1·116–117contamination sources for, 1·113,
115–116cross-contamination and, 1·166diagnosis of, 1·114infectious dose for, 1·115mechanical tenderizers and, 1·176noroviruses and, 1·153–154tracking, 1·110–111, 113
foodborne pathogensbacterial, 1·134–135common misconceptions about,
1·117–119microbes as, 1·106research on, food safety rules and,
1·166time to onset of symptoms a� er
exposure to, 1·114types of, 1·108–109
forced convectionfrom air, heat transfer coe� cient of,
1·283boundary layer and, 1·283in CVap ovens, 2·159
forced-convection ovens, 1·282–283forced-convection steam ovens, 2·239forcemeat, 3·222
Activa TI for, 3·250forceps, surgical, for Modernist kitchen,
2·286foreshots, in distillation, 2·384Forgione, Larry, 1·28, 29� e Forme of Cury (1390), 1·10Fort, Ma� hew, 1·50Fossilized Salsify Branch, 3·399Foucault, Léon, 2·191Fourier, Jean Baptiste Joseph, 1·278Framingham Heart Study, 1·225, 231France. See also Bordeaux, France
agar in, history of cooking with, 4·128aristocratic food in, 1·8cuisine of, heart disease and, 1·228early gastronomy of, 1·9haute cuisine of, 1·19McDonald’s in, 1·23–24medieval cuisine in, 1·12New International cuisine and,
1·29–30Nouvelle cuisine in, 1·24, 26–27plated dishes in, 1·25seam cu� ing in, 3·47sous vide cooking in, 1·40, 41wine regulation in, 4·331–332
Francisella tularensis, 1·138frankfurters
Frankfurter, 3·242parametric recipe for, 3·238–239seasonings in, 3·226
free wateras measure of dryness, 2·428rehydration and, 1·321
Freedom Cooking System, 2·240freeze concentration, 2·379, 396, 397freeze dryers, 2·444, 448–449freeze � ltration, with gels, 2·368–371Freeze-Dried Beef Gravy Granules,
2·454
Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam, 4·300Freeze-Dried Egg Yolk, 5·247, 250Freeze-Dried Onion Powder, 3·373,
5·261, 263Freeze-Dried Pork, 5·247, 251freeze-drying, 2·444–455, 3·365
best bets for, 2·451characteristics of, 2·444–447common problems with, 2·452critical temperatures for, science of,
2·453equipment for, 2·285example recipes for, 2·454–455,
5·185, 247of fruits, parametric recipe for, 3·372method for, 2·448–449, 450parametric recipe for, 2·450–452physics of, 1·329of plant foods, 3·344, 365prefreezing temperatures for, 2·451sublimation and, 1·328, 2·444, 3·365of vegetables
example recipes for, 3·373, 5·261parametric recipe for, 3·372
freezer burn, 1·308, 326freezer taste, 1·306freeze-thaw stability, thickener
selection and, 4·15freezers
extracellular � uid as liquid in, 1·305–306
pros and cons of, 2·259sublimation in, 1·326temperature control in, 1·205–207types of, 1·306–307
freezing. See also frozen foods; entries beginning with cryo-
anisakid infections and, 1·123below glass-transition temperature,
1·306bread freshness and, 1·320carbonated liquids and, 2·464cryogenic. See cryogenic freezingof � sh, 1·194, 3·37� ash, Birdseye and, 1·306–307food preservation and, 2·252freeze-drying and. See freeze-dryingfreezers and. See freezersof gel spheres, how to, 4·135juice extraction with, 2·239, 335, 337methods for, 1·306–311physics of, 1·299of plant foods, 3·344
to modify texture, 3·374pressure-shi� , physics of, 1·309of raw foods
extracellular � uid and, 1·305–306FDA on time and temperature for,
1·186in salty brine, 2·260sous vide cooking and, 2·256–258strategies for, 2·259thawing and. See thawingthickening sauces, jus, or glazes by,
2·346Trichinella infections and, 1·117–118,
121–122of water, 1·304–311
hydrogen bonds and, 1·298physics of, 1·299
freezing pointdepression of
dissolved materials and, 1·304–305
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 78 3/22/11 10:56:37 AM
I N D E X L X X I X
GASES Gfreezing point (continued)
freeze concentration and, 2·396pacotizing and, 2·406
in phase diagrams, 1·302–303� e French Cook (La Varenne, 1651),
1·8, 9French cuisine. See FranceFrench Culinary Institute. See Arnold,
David; Norén, NilsFrench fries
frozen, program cooking in combi oven of, 2·169
ultimate, how to make, 3·322� e French Laundry, 1·38, 56, 68. See
also Keller, � omasFrench onion soup, pressure-cooking,
3·298French press co� ee brewer, 4·368French roast stage, of co� ee, 4·362French Scrambled Eggs, 4·93French toast, Chorizo French Toast,
4·98–99frequencies, of microwaves, 2·182Fresh Bean Salad, 5·85, 87Fresh Cheese Curds, 4·106–107fricassees
Carrot and Dill Fricassee, 5·161, 164Fricassee of Fava Beans and Lychees,
5·171, 173Sweet Pea and Young Ginger
Fricassee, 5·273, 275friction
emulsi� cation and, 4·13, 206heat generated by, 1·274, 2·398,
4·206meat grinding or chopping and,
3·230–231Fried Chicken Sausage, 3·249Fried Egg Foam, 5·211, 212Fried Green Tomatoes, 5·67, 74Fried Pickles, 5·67, 75Frieden, � omas R., 1·237frigi-canning, 2·84–85fri� atas, parametric recipe for, 4·92froths
best bets for, 4·264parametric recipe for, 4·264
Frozen Cheddar-Cheese Powder, 2·411Frozen Chorizo Powder, 5·193, 194Frozen Crème-Frâiche and Pine-Nut
Cream, 2·411frozen foods. See also freezing
in conventional freezers, 1·305–306� avor changes in, chemistry of, 2·261food quality and, 2·256–258organ meat freshness and, 3·136seafood as, 1·182, 3·37thawing vs. cooking directly from
freezer, 1·313, 2·258, 262, 263Frozen Pomelo Cells, 5·189, 191frozen set foams, 4·245, 247Frozen White “Tru� e,” 3·400–401fruit chips
example recipes for, 3·328–330fried, best bets for, 3·328parametric recipe for, 3·328–329
fruit gels, hotbest bets for, 4·165parametric recipe for, 4·164–165
fruit meringue, cryofreezing of, 2·458fruits. See also citrus fruits; fruit chips;
fruit gels; speci� c � uitsacidic juice for marinades from, 3·195
fruits (continued)as acidi� ers, 2·31, 314, 315blanching, 2·269carbonating, 1·69, 2·464, 469, 472classi� cation of, 3·262colorectal cancer risk and, 1·214–215compressed, example recipes for,
3·392–394, 5·285cooked, seasonal mélanges of, 3·294cooking sous vide
parametric recipe for, 3·288, 290–291
for purees, best bets for, 3·290in sugar syrup, best bets for, 3·291until tender, best bets for, 3·288
cu� ing tools for frying, 3·326–327dehydrating
best bets for, 3·366example recipes for, 3·369–370parametric recipe for, 3·366–367
disassembling with liquid nitrogen of, 2·458, 462
FDA standards and, 1·189freeze-drying
best bets for, 3·372parametric recipe for, 2·451, 3·372
freshness control of, sous vide and, 2·201
gelling agents from, 4·126heat-shocking, 3·358–359hydrocolloids and, as thickeners, 4·19impregnated, example recipes for,
3·392–394, 5·285with peels, carbonating, 2·464plated-dish recipes for, 5·259–260,
277–279, 285–287preserving, best bets for, 3·348purees of
example recipes for, 2·427parametric recipe for, 2·424–425
raw, seasonal mélanges of, 3·294ripening, 3·283–284with sugar, brandied, fermentation
and, 3·346volumetric equivalents for amounts
of, 5·XLIVwater content of, 5·XL–XLI
frying, 3·314–343ba� er-frying
example recipes for, 3·334–337parametric recipe for, 3·332–333
with breading, 3·338–343deep-frying and. See deep-fryingof fruits
chips and, 3·328–329cu� ing tools for, 3·326–327
naked, 3·317, 321best bets for, 3·320chemistry of, 3·320coated frying vs., 3·316, 318–319
oils for, chemistry of, 2·126panfrying and. See panfryingshallow. See shallow fryingstir-frying and. See stir-fryingvacuum, 2·128of vegetables
chips and, 3·330–331cu� ing tools for, 3·326–327example recipes for, 3·321,
323–325, 5·11potatoes as, 3·322–325
frying pan, cutaway illustration of, 3·72–73
FSIS. See U.S. Food Safety and Inspection Service
full city roast stage, of co� ee, 4·362functional magnetic resonance imaging
(fMRI), during wine tastings, 4·340fusel alcohols (fusel “oils”), 2·384fusion cooking, development of, 1·29
GGagnaire, Pierre
Adrià and, 1·34Erice Conferences and, 1·45, 46Green Olive Meringue recipe, 4·298hot spring eggs and, 4·75Modernist cuisine and, 1·64molecular gastronomy of � is and,
1·48New International cuisine and, 1·30Nouvelle cuisine and individuality
of, 1·27, 39–40Gajdusek, D. Carleton, 1·159Galileo, 1·107Gamay Noir, Gouais Blanc and, 4·327game broth, parametric recipe for,
2·304–305gamma-ray irradiation, to kill bacteria,
1·149ganache, Foie Gras and Hazelnut
Ganache, 5·125, 128Gand, Gale, 1·69garagistes, 4·332García, Dani
liquid nitrogen and, 1·64, 65Modernist cuisine and, 1·57
García del Moral, Raimundoon hepatic steatosis and foie gras,
3·139liquid nitrogen and, 1·64
gargling liquid nitrogen, safety and, 2·466
Le Gargouillou, 1·40, 3·294–295garlic
Apicius on, 1·12blanching, 5·26Brown Bu� er-Poached Green Garlic,
5·229, 230cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·290, 292Dehydrated Garlic Chips, 5·43, 46Garlic Con� t, 3·354, 5·25, 60, 81Garlic Nougatine, 5·25, 29Green Garlic and Pork Sausage, 5·85,
86Pickled Garlic, 5·25, 26preserving, parametric recipe for,
3·348So� -Boiled Egg and Garlic
Emulsion, 4·227Spring Garlic Consommé, 5·85, 86Toasted Garlic Chips, 5·5, 9Toulousain Garlic Sausage, 5·81, 82wild garlic blossom and, 5·26
garum, 1·11, 3·195Pomegranate and Garum Jus, 5·121,
122gas burners, e� ciency of, 1·274gas griddles, 2·40gas grills
charcoal grills vs., 2·10–11controlling heat in, 2·14
gas-in-water (G/W) emulsions, 4·243gas-in-oil (G/O) emulsions, 4·243gases. See also carbonation; evaporation;
steamheat convection in, 1·282internal energy of, 1·264
physics of, 1·301
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 79 3/22/11 10:56:37 AM
L X X X I N D E X
GASESGgases (continued)
phase changes and thermal energy from, 1·290
as solvents, 1·330, 332–333vapor vs., 1·300
gastroenteritis, 1·114, 119Gastronorm hotel pans, as vacuum
containers, 2·226–227Gault, Henri
Nouvelle cuisine and, 1·24, 26–27sous vide cooking and, 1·41
Gauthier, Alexandre, Modernist cuisine and, 1·64
Gayot, André, 1·24gazpacho
� avor of, 5·278Strawberry Gazpacho, 5·277, 278
GDL (glucono delta-lactone)gel formation with, 4·102product guide for, 4·II–III
gel. See gelsgelatin. See also gelatinization
ballistic, 4·68Bloom strength and, 4·Vcharacteristics of, 4·67–68as foaming agent, 4·244–245, 251freeze-drying and, 2·447fruit juice and, 3·195gelling agents from, 4·69gels and
with alcohol, 4·IVparametric recipe for, 4·116–117
as hydrocolloid for thickening, 4·38hydrogen bonds in water and, 1·296ice � ltration and
for clarifying, 2·368–369for liquids and consommés, 2·352technique for, 2·370–371
interactions with other thickeners, 4·44–45
160 Bloom. See 160 Bloom gelatinorganic food movement perception
of, 1·253product guide for, 4·II–IIIproduction process for, 1·256properties and uses of, 4·42–43in skin, baking chicken upright and,
2·109as thermo-reversible gel, 4·70as thickener, 4·5un� avored, volumetric equivalents
for amounts of, 5·XLIVwhipped cream and, 4·248
gelatinizationof collagen, 3·78–79common problems with, 4·27cooking � oury potatoes and, 3·280holding at a temperature and, 2·247of starches, 4·22temperature requirements for, 4·68
gelato, pistachio cream for, 4·214gellan
as emulsion stabilizer, 4·215fat incorporation into sausage with,
3·225as � uid gel, 4·176high-acyl. See high-acyl gellanlow-acyl. See low-acyl gellannatural sources for, 1·253
gelling agentshydrocolloids as, 4·67, 68, 124–175modern, 4·126sources of, 4·68
gels, 4·64–195. See also gelling agentsaerogels, history of, 4·72alginate, Adrià’s use for, 1·39casting
how to, 4·132of thick sheets, how to, 4·134
cellulose gum. See cellulose gumschemistry of, 4·71cold
best bets for, 4·140–141parametric recipe for, 4·140–141
concentrated, stock solution of, 4·126
considerations for, 4·73dairy, 4·102–123
example recipes for, 4·105–111, 114derivation of term, 4·67egg. See egg gelsfamiliar, 4·67–69� rm coating, best bets for, 4·151� uid. See � uid gelsformation process for, 4·70–72hot. See hot gelshydrocolloid. See hydrocolloid gelsion-coagulated, 4·124–127
how to use, 4·129Madeira Gelée, 5·125, 131meat. See meat gelsmodern, 4·126molding
how to, 4·133with suspended solids, how to,
4·133noodles and
how to extrude, 4·138how to extrude with peristaltic
pump, 4·139rheologic descriptions of, 4·VIIISalt Gel, 5·5, 9seafood, 3·222Spiced Walnut Vinegar Gel, 5·109,
111spreading use of, 1·73tofu, 4·102–123
example recipes for, 4·112–113, 115traditional, 4·69vegetable, hot, parametric recipe for,
4·164–165generally recognized as safe (G� S)
ingredients, 1·254Genevac Rocket Evaporator, 2·391–395
example recipes for, 2·394genome, bacterial, sequencing of, 1·130genus, 1·112geoduck clams
biology of, 3·27cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·108Geoduck with Seawater Foam, 4·266Marinated Geoduck, Young Ginger,
Shiso, 5·197, 200geometric growth, of bacteria, 1·142geometry. See also food size; food
thicknessof foam, 4·246heat conduction in food and, 1·279
geosminin beets, 5·182in freshwater � sh, 3·88
Gerber, Walter, 4·222Germany
early gastronomy of, 1·10sausage-making in, 3·223
ghee, 4·213Giardia intestinalis, 1·127–129Giardia lamblia, 1·128giardiasis, 1·128Il Giardino d’Italia, 1·21, 31ginger
Crab and Ginger Marble, 5·253, 255Ginger Cola, 4·239infusion of, parametric recipe for,
2·310Sweet Pea and Young Ginger
Fricassee, 5·273, 275Tuna Ribbons with Ginger
Marmalade, 3·202XO Sauce, 4·52
ginger extract, parametric recipe for, 2·326
Girardet, FrédyBlack Cod “Frédy Girardet” and,
5·170–173Nouvelle cuisine and individuality
of, 1·27poaching and broiling by, 2·24–25,
96, 97GISSI-Prevenzione clinical trial, 1·232Gi� leman, Ann Louise, 1·248gizzard, characteristics and cooking of,
3·141–142glasses, edible, 4·6
dehydrating formula for, 3·367Pineapple Glass, 3·370Spiced Honey Glass, 5·121, 123
glass jarsfor canning, 2·77heating requirements and duration
for, 2·79packing food in, 2·78
glass-ceramic stoves, 1·274glass-transition temperature
freeze-drying and, 1·329, 2·444, 446freezing below, 1·306
Glazed Carrot, 5·185, 186Glazed Oxtail, 5·49, 50Glazed Pearl Onion, 5·261, 263Glazed White Carrot, 5·31, 32glazes
Banyuls Glaze, 5·17, 19Bulgogi Glaze, 5·285, 287Constructed Red Wine Glaze, 5·219,
221Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and
Hibiscus Glaze, 4·158–159Goulash Glaze, 5·55, 57Hamburger Glaze, 5·11, 14Squash Glaze, 5·60, 63Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze, 5·43,
44thickening strategies for, 2·346vacuum evaporation for reducing,
2·346glazing
as alternative to boiling, 2·70covered sautéing of vegetables and,
2·58gloves, personal hygiene and, 1·200glucono delta-lactone (GDL)
gel formation with, 4·102product guide for, 4·II–III
glucose powder, for edible � lms, parametric recipe for, 4·60
glucose syrup DE 40for bubbles and froths, parametric
recipe for, 4·264
glucose syrup DE 40 (continued)as emulsion stabilizer, 4·215for set foams, parametric recipe for,
4·288–289thickening with, parametric recipe
for, 4·47glue
meat, 3·250–256, 4·70. See also Activa
vegetable, 3·392gluten
as bread � our-binder, 3·376intolerance to, 1·239
glycerin, for edible � lms, parametric recipe for, 4·60
glycerolcentrifuging and, 2·368in milk, foam development and,
4·392glycine, in scallops, 3·26glycogen, in scallops, 3·26gnocchi
Flourless Gnocchi, 4·119Idiazábal Gnocchi, 4·123
G/O (gas-in-oil) emulsions, 4·243Goan Curry, 5·90, 91, 95goat cheese
Goat Cheese Dumplings, 4·105Herbed Cheese Spread, 4·57
goat’s milkcarotenoid pigments and, 3·92as emulsion, color of, 4·202Goat Milk Rico� a, 4·108
goats, scrapie in, 1·157God shot, of espresso
as absolute perfection, 4·357� rst, pleasure of, 4·375pod or capsule systems and, 4·400
Goin, Suzanne, Achatz’s � rst meal at elBulli and, 1·38
Goldfarb, Will, 1·67Gong Bao Chicken, 3·205goose, cooking sous vide, parametric
recipe for, 3·99gooseberries, as acidi� er, 2·314Gosset, William Sealy, 4·251Gouais Blanc grapes, Chardonnay and,
4·327Gouda cheese
Cheese in a Tube, 4·225Mac and Cheese, 3·387Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Riso� o,
3·308Goulash Broth, 5·55, 56Goulash Glaze, 5·55, 57Goussault, Bruno
biography of, 1·43sous vide cooking and, 1·41
gra� ing, grape varieties and, 4·326–327Graham, Tim, 1·69Grahm, Randall, 4·345grains
converting grams to volumes for, 5·XXXVI
seasonal mélanges with, 3·294water content of, 5·XLI
Gram, Hans Christian, 1·106gram-calorie, 1·272Gram-negative bacteria, 1·106Gram-positive bacteria, 1·106la grande cuisine. See Esco� er, AugusteGrandin, Temple, biography of, 3·36granita, Passion Fruit Granita, 5·175, 177
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 80 3/22/11 10:56:38 AM
I N D E X L X X X I
G/W (GAS-IN-WATER) EMULSIONS Ggrapefruit
as acidi� er, 2·314cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·291Eggless Citrus Curd, 4·234Enzyme-Treated Pink Grapefruit,
3·357Grapefruit and Black Pepper, 4·276Grapefruit-Cured Salmon, 3·180Pink Grapefruit Con� t, 5·225, 226
grapefruit diet, 1·240–241grapes. See also verjus
carbonated, 2·464Cantu on, 2·469
compressing, parametric recipe for, 3·390
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·288, 291
Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel, 4·183freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,
3·372heat-treating, parametric recipe for,
3·359impregnating, parametric recipe for,
3·390preserving, parametric recipe for,
3·348in Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy
Grapes, Fresh Wasabi, and Miso Powder, 5·197, 200
White Grape Syrup, 4·52for wine, 4·319–320
varieties of, 4·326–328grapeseed oil, chemistry of, 2·126G� S (generally recognized as safe)
ingredients, 1·254Gras, Laurent, 1·69graters, Microplane
Adrià’s use of, 1·36, 3·388cu� ing vegetables for frying with,
3·327gratin, Onion Gratin, 5·261, 265grating, cryogenic freezing for, 2·461gravy
Red-Eye Gravy, 5·101, 102� anksgiving Turkey Gravy, 4·33
Gray, � eodore, liquid nitrogen ice cream and, 1·63–64
graybodies, absorption and emission by, 1·286
greasiness, in deep-fried foods, avoiding, 2·125, 127
Great Atlantic & Paci� c Tea Company, 1·21
Greeceancient, sausage-making in, 3·220early gastronomy in, 1·12–13
Green Asparagus and Morels with Asparagus Jus, 2·341
green beansFresh Bean Salad, 5·85, 87preserving, parametric recipe for,
3·348green cabbage, in Sauerkraut, 3·351,
5·35Green Garlic and Pork Sausage, 5·85, 86Green Mango and Cashew Salad, 5·167,
169Green Olive Meringue, 4·298green olives
Green Olive Meringue, 4·298Liquid Pimento Olive, 4·193Olive Marmalade, 4·99
Green Papaya Pickle, 5·97green peas
Cantonese Fried Rice, 2·176–177Centrifuged Pea Juice, 2·367Cinnamon-Scented Pea Juice, 5·273,
275cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·292freezing to preserve � avor of, 3·374Fresh Bean Salad, 5·85, 87Green Pea Yuba, 4·115Pacojet Pea Soup, 2·410pea consommé, parametric recipe
for, 2·374–375puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425Sweet Pea and Young Ginger
Fricassee, 5·273, 275Sweet Pea Clusters, 4·173Sweet Pea Wafer, 3·371
Green Star macerating juicers, 2·332green tea
Cryopoached Green Tea Sour, 4·291Green Tea Cake, 4·292infusion of, parametric recipe for,
2·310green tomatoes, Fried Green Tomatoes,
5·67, 74Greene, Gael, 1·61Greenland shark, chemistry of, 3·43Gremolata Crisp, 5·60, 64grey mullet bo� arga, in Sea Urchin
Bo� arga, 5·226griddles
characteristics of, 2·40for Modernist kitchen, 2·287panfrying using, 2·37searing using, 2·40–41
for sous vide cooking, 2·271shiny, physics of, 1·284
grilling, 2·6–17charcoal vs. brique� es for, 2·12charcoal vs. gas for, 2·10–11charcoal vs. wood for, 2·7chemistry of � avor and, 2·12cutaway illustration of, 2·8–9dra� and, 2·7historical uses of, 1·16indirect, 2·13sous vide cooking and, 2·270
grills. See also grillingcharcoal
controlling heat in, 2·14gas grills vs., 2·10–11
gascharcoal grills vs., 2·10–11controlling heat in, 2·14
manufacturers of, “BTU” as used by, 1·272
as ovens, 2·13radiant heat from, 1·277, 284sweet spot of, 2·14–17
Grimes, William, 1·63grinders. See co� ee grinders; espresso
grinders; meat grindersgrinding. See also milling; co� ee beans
colloidal suspensions from, 4·12dry, equipment for, 2·401–402, 404,
407example recipes for, 2·403–405,
5·35, 125of fat
how to, 3·228
grinding (continued)to incorporate into sausage,
3·224–225mathematics of power for, 2·401of meat
collagen mesh and, 3·76how to, 3·228for sausage, 3·220
strategies for, 2·400tools for, 3·230–233wet. See wet-grinding
grooming espresso porta� ltersdosing and, 4·380how to, 4·381methods for, 4·383
grousecooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·99as substitute for pigeon, 5·132
Growth Predictor, simulating bacterial growth, 1·147
Gruyère cheeseAerated Gruyère, 4·312Cheesy “Whiz,” 4·225Gruyère Custard, 5·261, 264Gruyère Sou� é, 4·301Gruyère Spheres, 4·190Ham and Cheese Omelet, 4·95Whipped Cheese, 4·272
guar gumcontrolling syneresis with, 4·17as emulsion stabilizer, 4·215fat incorporation into sausage with,
3·225interactions with other thickeners,
4·44–45for light foams, parametric recipe
for, 4·270product guide for, 4·II–IIIproduction process for, 1·257properties and uses of, 4·42–43thickening with, parametric recipe
for, 4·46, 47Guérard, Michel, 1·24, 26
pot-au-feu of, 5·49Le Guide Culinaire (Esco� er, 1903), 1·9,
19–20Le Guide Michelin, star ratings of, 1·24guinea hen
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·99, 108
Guinea Hen Tagine plated-dish recipe, 5·135–139
Sous Vide Guinea Hen, 5·135, 137Guinness beer
dra� -beer-style head on, 4·250–251, 254, 256
Guinness “Pâte de Fruit,” 4·145gum arabic
interactions with other thickeners, 4·44–45
natural source for, 1·253, 257properties and uses of, 4·42–43as surfactant emulsi� er, 4·216–217
gum tragacanthinteractions with other thickeners,
4·44–45product guide for, 4·II–IIIproperties and uses of, 4·42–43thickening with, parametric recipe
for, 4·46, 47
gums. See also speci� c types of gumshydrocolloid
� avor release by, 4·11grades, brand names, and
proprietary blends of, 1·95natural sources for, 1·253organic label for, 1·245scaling using baker’s percentages
and, 1·96–97kori bustard’s consumption of, 1·253as thickeners, 4·15thickening sauces, jus, or glazes
with, 2·346Gundel, Károly, 5·55Guns, Germs, and Steel (Diamond),
3·268G/W (gas-in-water) emulsions, 4·243
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 81 3/22/11 10:56:38 AM
L X X X I I I N D E X
HA GELLANHHHA gellan. See high-acyl gellanHACCP (Hazard Analysis and Critical
Control Point) assessment, basics of, 1·195
Haeberlin, Paul, 1·49hake, cooking sous vide, parametric
recipe for, 3·102Haldane, J. B. S., 2·288halibut
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·102
Halibut Brandade, 5·151, 152Halibut Cheek Gel Base, 5·143, 144Halibut Cheeks, 5·143, 144Halibut in Verbena Bubble,
4·156–157Lute� sk, 3·200Salted Halibut, 3·187, 5·151
ham. See also jamón Ibérico; prosciu� oBlackstrap Molasses Country Ham,
3·183cold-smoking, parametric recipe for,
3·210cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·109Cured Ham Broth, 5·81, 84Ham Broth, 2·306Ham Consommé with Melon Beads,
4·48Spanish raw-cured, U.S. importation
rules on, 1·173XO Sauce, 4·52
Ham and Cheese Omelet, 4·95ham and cheese sausage, parametric
recipe for, 3·238–239ham broth
Ham Broth, 2·306parametric recipe for, 2·304–305
Ham Consommé with Melon Beads, 4·48
hamachicooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·102Hamachi Maltaise plated-dish
recipe, 5·147–149Seared Hamachi, 5·147, 149
Hamburger Buns, 5·11, 12Hamburger Glaze, 5·11, 14hamburgers
best bets for, 3·234as coarse “sausage,” 3·220, 222meat grinders for, 3·233parametric recipe for, 3·234–235perfect, how to cook sous vide, 3·86
Hancock, Jerry, liquid nitrogen ice cream and, 1·63
hand washingproper methods for, 1·196–199UV lotion or powder and, 1·201
handheld blendersdispersing thickeners with, 4·24emulsifying with, 4·208, 209foam forming with, 4·252, 258, 259hydration of ion-coagulated gels
with, 4·124hydrocolloid dispersion with, 4·38for Modernist kitchen, 2·286ultrasonic homogenizers as, 2·415wet-grinding with, 2·413
handheld smokers, 2·146handheld whipping wands. See also
whisksfoam forming with, 4·258to froth milk, 4·391
Hanger Steak Tartare, 3·65Hanig, Dieter, 4·341Hanner, Heinz, 1·70hard apple cider
freeze-concentrating to make applejack, 2·396
Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam, 4·276
hard waterdissolved minerals and, 1·335espresso-making and, 4·384hydration of ion-coagulated gels
with, 4·124plant food cooking and, 3·278
hard-boiled eggs, parametric recipe for cooking, 4·78
hardwood charcoal, brique� es vs., 2·12Harvard School of Public Health, 1·230Harvell, Michael Lee, 3·207Hawaiian Poke plated-dish recipe,
5·175–177Hay-Smoked Chicken Crown, 5·113,
114–115Hazard Analysis and Critical Control
Point (HACCP) assessment, 1·195hazard ratio, nutritional studies and,
1·219haze (weather phenomenon), 1·325hazelnut oil
Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil Puree, 2·426
Hazelnut Oil Extract, 2·321hazelnut oil extract
Hazelnut Oil Extract, 2·321parametric recipe for, 2·326
hazelnutsCentrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil,
2·367Dried Cherry and Hazelnut
Nougatine, 5·267, 270Foie Gras and Hazelnut Ganache,
5·125, 128Hazelnut “Cream,” 4·236 Romesco Sauce, 2·419Saucisson Sec, 3·247
HCAs (heterocyclic amines), 1·220HDL (high-density lipoproteins), 1·226heads, in distillation, 2·384health. See food and health debates;
foodborne illnesses; foodborne pathogens
heart, characteristics and cooking of, 3·142
heart diseasecholesterol and, 1·224–227dietary � ber and risk of, 1·216fat and, 1·229–230French cuisine and, 1·228weight loss diets and, 1·242
heart pa� ern, for ca� è la� es, 4·395hearts of palm, cooking sous vide,
parametric recipe for, 3·289heat, 1·260–291. See also energy;
temperaturebacterial toxins and, 1·135conduction of. See conductionconvection of. See convection entriesde� ning, 1·264
heat (continued)e� ciency and, 1·274
of kitchen devices producing, 1·275energy and, 1·263excessive, pressure cookers and,
2·291friction and. See frictionfruit ripening and, 3·283–284of fusion, 1·296latent, of vaporization. See latent
heat of vaporizationlost, cutaway illustration of sources
for, 1·276in motion, 1·277–290oil changes due to, 2·115oven control of, 2·153from pan bo� om to handle,
1·280–281physics of woks glowing hot, 1·287radiant. See radiationshell� sh � avors and, 3·27speci� c, de� nition of, 1·266–267spheri� cation and, 4·184steam distillation and, 2·320of sublimation, 1·326temperature and, 1·264–271testing oven controls for, 2·156–157transfer of
boiling and, 2·63cold-shocking and, 2·254, 256computer simulation models of,
1·282with conduction, 1·277–281. See
also conductionwith convection, 1·279, 281–283.
See also convectiondirection of, 1·265–266Fick’s law of di� usion and, 2·290Myhrvold on writing about, 1·84with radiation, 1·284–286types of, 1·277in water bath at core temperature,
2·245in water bath ho� er than target
temperature, 2·245, 247of vaporization, 1·296. See also latent
heat of evaporationwhipped cream and, 4·244, 248
heat capacityof cookware, 1·278of water, 1·298
heat content, measuring, 1·300–301heat equation
calculating cooking times using, 1·279
history of Fourier and, 1·278heat � ux, from grills, 2·10heat lability, of bacterial toxins, 1·135heat transfer coe� cient, 1·283heat-gun browning, 2·275. See also blow
torching and blowtorchesHeather-Smoked Sturgeon, 5·233, 235Heather-Smoked Sturgeon Rille� es,
5·233, 235heat-set Activa bonding, 3·252heat-shocking, of plant foods, 3·344,
358–359heat-treated fruit, parametric recipe for,
3·359hemoglobin, role of, 3·12, 14Henderson, Fergus, 1·28, 3·136HEPA (High E� ciency Particulate Air)
ventilation hoods, 1·205
hepatic steatosis and foie gras, pathology of, 3·139
hepatitis A, 1·155herb oil, Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil,
2·330Herbed Cheese Spread, 4·57Herb-Embedded Pasta Veil, 3·383,
5·253herbs
antioxidants in, aging braises and pot roasts and, 2·98
Apicius on, 1·11for brining or curing, 3·158converting grams to volumes for,
5·XXXVIIIcryofreezing of, 2·458freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,
3·372microwaving, 3·310Romans’ use of, 1·11in sausage, 3·226seasonal mélanges with, 3·295volumetric equivalents for amounts
of, 5·XLIVwater content of, 5·XLI
Herman, Sergio, 1·70Hermé, Pierre, Onion tart and, 5·261Herodotus, 1·12Hesse, Angelina, 4·128Hesse, Walther, 4·128Hesser, Amanda, 1·188heterocyclic amines (HCAs), 1·220hex. See sodium hexametaphosphatehibiscus � owers, Foie Gras Torchon
with Beet and Hibiscus Glaze, 4·158–159
High E� ciency Particulate Air (HEPA) ventilation hoods, 1·205
high-acyl (HA) gellanfor cold gels, parametric recipe for,
4·140for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe
for, 4·165for hot gels, parametric recipe for,
4·160as ion-based coagulant, 4·127product guide for, 4·II–IIIproperties and uses of, 4·42–43, 72
high-density lipoproteins (HDL), 1·226
high-methoxyl (HM) pectinfor cold gels, parametric recipe for,
4·140for edible � lms, parametric recipe
for, 4·60as gelling agent, 4·68interactions with other thickeners,
4·44–45product guide for, 4·II–IIIproperties and uses of, 4·42–43, 72
high-pressure homogenizersemulsifying with, 4·206, 208, 209foam forming with, 4·252
high-temperature, short-time (HTST) pasteurization, 1·188
hijiki, 5·28histamines
intolerance to, 1·239spoiled � sh and poisoning from,
1·139Historic Lamb Curries plated-dish
recipe, 5·89–99
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 82 3/22/11 10:56:38 AM
I N D E X L X X X I I I
HHYGIENE
history, 1·2–101of evolution and revolution, 1·14–31of Modernist Cuisine, 1·82–91of Modernist Cuisine recipes, 1·92–101of Modernist revolution, 1·52–77of origins of cooking, 1·6–13of seeds of Modernism, 1·32–51timeline of Modernist recipes and
techniques and, 1·78–81HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance)
values, 4·204HM pectin. See high-methoxyl pectinHodgson, Robert, 4·338Ho� man, James, 4·396, 400hogs, roasting, 2·30–31Hokkaido squash, cooking sous vide,
parametric recipe for, 3·289, 290holding food
browned, in CVap water-vapor oven, 2·159
at target temperature, 2·247–249holding temperature. See also water
baths“danger zones,” 1·175–176extended and simpli� ed 6.5D
Salmonella reduction for, 1·192FDA Food Code time and
temperature for, 1·184food safety misconceptions about,
1·175–176maximum/minimum speci� cations
for, 1·176for meat, food safety and, 3·78for pasteurization, 2·243, 3·233of refrigerators, 2·257
Holiday Inn, Greenville, South Carolina, sous vide cooking and, 1·41
hollandaiseBacon Jam, 4·229Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 4·228Eggs Benedict, 4·86Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise, 4·228
Homer, 1·13, 3·220hominy, Shrimp and Grits, 3·377homogenizers
high-pressureemulsifying with, 4·206, 208, 209foam forming with, 4·252
rotor-stator. See rotor-stator homogenizers
ultrahigh-pressurefor Modernist kitchen, 2·284for reducing particle size, 2·398, 400for wet-grinding, 2·414, 422–423
ultrasonic. See ultrasonic homogenizers
Hon Dashi, 2·306, 5·197honey
BBQ Caramels, 4·62Edible Bar Soap with Honey
Bubbles, 4·267Sa� ron Honey Foam, 5·94Spiced Honey Glass, 5·121, 123
honeydew melon, Compressed Melon Terrine, 3·392
honshimeji mushroomsCompressed Dill Pickled Vegetables,
5·55, 58cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·289French Scrambled Eggs, 4·93
Hooke, Robert, 1·107Horchata (Chufa Milk), 4·59
Horchata Foam, 5·239, 244Hormel, Jay Catherwood, 1·21horns, of ultrasonic homogenizers, 2·414horsepower, 1·272horseradish, Horseradish Foam, 4·284Horseradish Foam, 4·284hospital food in Sweden, sous vide
technology for, 2·252, 265Hostess Brands, 1·76Hot and Cold Tea, 4·176, 182Hot Applesauce Terrine, 5·101, 103Hot Apricot Marshmallow, 4·293Hot Banana Gel, 4·166Hot Blood Pudding Custard, 4·221Hot Bu� er Foam, 4·283Hot Egg Mayonnaise, 4·227hot foods, cooling
food safety and, 1·205–206, 2·256, 257
phase changes and, 1·290starchy plants and, 3·280, 282
hot gelsbest bets for, 4·160examples of, 4·124fruit
best bets for, 4·165parametric recipe for, 4·164–165
parametric recipe for, 4·160–161Hot Green Apple Gel, 4·166hot liquids, thickened, parametric
recipe for, 4·46–47hot mi� s
conduction in, 1·277, 280silicone, 1·280
Hot Orange Gel, 4·167hot plates, digitally controlled
for Modernist kitchen, 2·284for vacuum reduction, 2·380
Hot Quince Gel, 4·167, 5·121Hôtel Moderne, 1·25hot-packing
boiling-water canning and, 2·77heating requirements and duration
for, 2·79packing food in canning jars for, 2·78
hot-pickling tongue, 3·141hot-smoking, 2·143, 148, 3·211, 361hot-spring eggs, 4·75
parametric recipe for cooking, 4·78House Barbecue Sauce, 4·49, 5·67House Bi� ers, 2·327House-Cured Bacon, 3·182, 5·17, 18How To. See list of Step-by-Step
Procedures, LVIHPMC. See hydroxypropyl
methylcelluloseHTST (high-temperature, short-time)
pasteurization, 1·188humectants, moisture content of food
and, 2·428humidity. See also combi ovens;
moisture; water-vapor ovensActiva and, 3·252baking and, 2·102, 111braising or pot-roasting in ovens
and, 2·98co� ee grind and, 4·376, 378in deep-frying, 2·115, 116–117,
118–119, 125evaporation and, 1·319–321fermented sausage-making and, 3·246heat transfer and, 2·71ovens and, 2·153
humidity (continued)relative. See relative humidityresting food and, 2·38in shallow frying, 2·127–128smoking and, 2·132, 141, 3·211
� avor of smoke and, 2·138hot-smoking and, 2·148smoke from burning wood and,
2·143testing oven controls for, 2·156–157
humidity-controlled mode, in modern ovens, 2·156–157
Humm, Daniel, Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise recipe, 4·228
Humphries, Daniel, 4·375Hungarian Beef Goulash plated-dish
recipe, 5·55–59hunter-gatherers, cooking by, 1·6hydration. See also rehydration
approaches to, 4·20of cellulosic gums, 4·127of cooked roux, 4·22for gelling, 4·71of hydrocolloids
for gelling, 4·124for thickening, 4·38, 40
hydrocolloid gels, 3·250, 4·67, 68, 124–175. See also hydrocolloids
castinghow to, 4·132in thick sheets, 4·134
cellulose gum, 4·126best bets for, 4·171example recipes for, 4·172–175parametric recipe for, 4·170–171
coating, 4·150–160best bets for, 4·151example recipes for, 4·152–160parametric recipe for, 4·150–151
cold, 4·140–149best bets for, 4·140example recipes for, 4·141–149parametric recipe for, 4·140
dairy, formation of, 4·102extruding gel noodles and, 4·138
with peristaltic pump, 4·139� lms and veils from, example recipes
for, 4·168–169� uid, 4·176–184
best bets for, 4·177coarse, 4·179with concentrated premade stock
gels, 4·179example recipes for, 4·180–184parametric recipe for, 4·177–179quick-se� ing, 4·179as thickeners, 4·19
fruit and vegetable, hot, 4·164–167best bets for, 4·165example recipes for, 4·166–167,
5·121parametric recipe for, 4·164–165
hot, 4·160–167best bets for, 4·160example recipes for, 4·161–163parametric recipe for, 4·160–161
hot fruit and vegetablebest bets for, 4·165example recipes for, 4·166–167,
5·121parametric recipe for, 4·164–165
ion-coagulated, 4·124–127
hydrocolloid gels (continued)example recipes for, 4·130–131how to use, 4·129
from microbes, 4·126molding, 4·133
of � rm beads in cold oil, 4·136of � rm droplets, 4·137in spheres, 4·135
from plants, 4·126fruits of, 4·126marine, 4·126tubers and roots of, 4·126
spheri� cation with, 4·184–195best bets for, 4·187example recipes for, 4·188–195parametric recipe for, 4·186–187reverse, 4·187suspending solids in gelled spheres
and, 4·187starches as, 4·126
hydrocolloid gums� avor release by, 4·11grades, brand names, and
proprietary blends of, 1·95natural sources for, 1·253organic label for, 1·245scaling using baker’s percentages
and, 1·96–97hydrocolloids, 4·67, 68, 124–175. See
also hydrocolloid gels; speci� c types of hydrocolloids
enzymes as, 4·126health and safety of, 1·250hydration of, 4·40interactions with other thickeners,
4·44–45ion reaction for spheri� cation with,
4·184as natural ingredient, 4·38product guide for, 4·II–Vproperties and uses of, 4·42–43proprietary blends, sources of, 4·41sequestrants and, 4·129suppliers of, 4·40texture-hydrocolloid combinations,
overview, 4·VIIas thickeners, 4·13, 19, 38–55
example recipes for, 4·48–59, 61–63, 5·67
use of term, 4·124hydrogen bonds, 1·296, 298, 314, 332hydrolysis, 2·123, 247, 3·78–79, 118hydrophilic molecules, in surfactants,
4·202, 244hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB)
values, 4·204hydrophobic molecules
fats as, 4·199in surfactants, 4·202, 244
hydrosol, in essential oils, 2·318, 320hydroxypropyl methylcellulose
(HPMC)for cellulose gum gels, parametric
recipe for, 4·170, 171interactions with other thickeners,
4·44–45product guide for, 4·IV–Vproperties and uses of, 4·42–43
hygiene, 1·196–207food, sous vide and, 2·199, 201ice cream bases and, 1·206kitchen, 1·200–205personal, 1·196–200
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 83 3/22/11 10:56:38 AM
L X X X I V I N D E X
HYGIENEHhygiene (continued)
temperature control for, 1·205–207hygroscopic materials, food drying and,
2·428hyperdecanting wine, 4·343–344hypermodern cuisine, 1·57hypertension, salt and, 1·234, 236–237hypothesis, of scienti� c theories, 1·218hysteresis, gel selection and, 4·73
Iice
crystals of. See ice crystalsforms of, 1·304freezing clear cubes of, 1·333heat conductivity of water vs., 1·299as phase of water, 1·300sublimation of, 1·326
ice beer, freeze concentration of, 2·396ice cream
Aerated Co� ee Ice Cream, 4·312base for
hygiene and, 1·196pasteurizing in sous vide bag, 1·206sous vide cook-chill of, 1·206
FDA Food Code time and temperature for, 1·185, 187, 189
freeze concentration of, 2·396freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,
2·451as frozen set foam, 4·247hot, as Modernist cuisine quest,
4·127ice-restructuring compounds and,
1·305liquid nitrogen and, 1·60–62, 311,
2·458pacotizing, 2·406, 407simpli� ed recommendations for,
1·190vacuum in� ation for foaming with,
4·254ice crystals. See also sublimation
freeze concentration and, 2·396on frozen foods, 2·256–258
thawing and, 2·262pacotizing and, 2·407
ice wine, freeze concentration of, 2·396ice-brine baths
freeze concentration and, 2·396freezing food in, 1·310, 2·260pros and cons of, 2·259vacuum packing and freezing in,
2·258ice-restructuring compounds, in � sh,
1·305ice-water baths
for cooling hot food, 1·206physics of not halting cooking with,
2·254pros and cons of, 2·255for quick chilling, 2·256for thawing, 2·263
ID50determining, science of, 1·115foodborne illnesses and, 1·115–116
ideal gas law, 1·282Ideas in Food (blog), 1·66, 67. See also
Kamozawa, Aki; Talbot, H. AlexanderIdiazábal cheese
Idiazábal Gnocchi recipe, 4·123Quinoa and Idiazábal with Bonito
Stock Veil, 4·168IDL (intermediate-density lipoprotein),
1·226ike jime method of slaughtering � sh,
3·35, 37how to, 3·38
Il Giardino d’Italia. See Boiardi, E� oreIliad (Homer), 1·13
illnesses, foodborne. See foodborne illnesses; foodborne pathogens
immediate service, sous vide and, 2·204–205
immersion blenders. See handheld blenders
immersion chillers, 2·238. See also water baths
immersion circulators, 2·230, 234, 235, 237
immiscible substances, 1·331, 332immune system, food allergies and,
1·238–239immune-compromised people,
fermented or cured sausages and, 3·223
impregnated fruits and vegetablesexample recipes for, 3·392–401, 5·285parametric recipe for, 3·390–391
Impression, Sunrise (Monet), 1·17, 18Impressionism
fading of, 1·72history of rough start for, 1·18–19Modernist avant-garde and, 1·52as revolution in art, 1·16–18Turner’s paintings and, 1·33
impulse sealers, 2·225, 284. See also vacuum packing
inactivation, of viral pathogens, 1·152–153
INAO (Institut National des Appellations d’Origine), 4·331
Incas, gastronomy of, 1·13index of refraction, 4·203India, curries of, 3·196–197Indies Spice Blend, 2·403individual quick freezing, � uidized bed
freezing for, 1·307induction burners, 1·274infections
astrovirus, 1·155intestinal. See also diarrhea;
Salmonella spp.giardiasis as, 1·128salmon-poisoning � uke and, 1·124
invasive, 1·110, 133, 134–135noninvasive
bacteria causing, 1·133, 135–136, 138–141
de� nition of, 1·110infectious dose
determining, science of, 1·115foodborne illnesses and, 1·115–116
in� ammation, heart disease and, 1·227in� ammatory diarrhea, 1·114in� ation, vacuum, foam forming with,
4·252, 254, 310informal recommendations, on food
safety, 1·165infrared light
blackbodies and, 1·285measuring, 1·287radiation and, 1·284
infrared thermometers, 1·269, 2·286infusing � avor. See also chamber sealers;
essences, aromaticsinto fats
example recipes for, 2·329–331parametric recipe for, 2·328–329
� avor-infused liquids andexample recipe for, 2·313parametric recipe for, 2·310
by cooking sous vide, 2·251
infusion, in co� ee brewing, 4·364ingredients. See also speci� c ingredients
converting grams to volumes for, 5·XXXIX–XL
measurement of, 1·93weights and measures for, 1·94–95
Modernist. See Modernist ingredients
size of. See food sizethickness of. See food thicknessused in Modernist Cuisine, 1·93–94
injectors, for accelerating brining, 3·158, 166, 174–175
innards, 3·136–151blood as, 3·144bones as, 3·143–144cooking, 3·136–151fat and, 3·144–145gizzard as, 3·141–142heart as, 3·142intestines as
characteristics and cooking of, 3·142–143
for sausage encasement, 3·220kidney as, 3·141liver and foie gras and, 3·138–140marrow as, 3·143–144O� al Sous Vide, 3·146parametric recipe for cooking sous
vide, 3·146as sausage binder, 3·222soaking in water or milk, 3·136stomach as, 3·142–143sweetbreads as. See sweetbreadstender, best bets for cooking sous
vide, 3·146tongue as, 3·140–141. See also speci� c
types of tonguetough, best bets for cooking sous
vide, 3·146insoluble substances, 1·330Insta Cure No. 1, 3·158, 161Insta Cure No. 2, 3·161Instant Crème Fraîche, 4·57Instant Swiss Meringue, 4·284Instant Tofu Noodles, 4·172Institut National des Appellations
d’Origine (INAO), 4·331institutional cooking, sous vide
techniques for, 2·265insulators, low conductivity of, 1·277integrals, mathematical, de� nition of,
2·230intellectual property law, 1·70–72, 76intensity of power, calculating grill
power and, 2·10intermediate muscle � ber, 3·15intermediate-density lipoprotein (IDL),
1·226internal energy, 1·264–265International Agency for Research on
Cancer, 1·220Internet
as Modernist ingredients source, 1·94
Modernist innovation and, 1·59–60INTERSALT study, 1·236, 237intestinal tract infections. See also
diarrhea; Salmonella spp.giardiasis as, 1·128salmon-poisoning � uke and, 1·124
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 84 3/22/11 10:56:39 AM
I N D E X L X X X V
JJUS
intestinescharacteristics and cooking of,
3·142–143for sausage encasement, 3·220
“Into the Vegetable Garden,” 3·294, 4·37intracellular � uid, in raw foods, 1·305invasive infections, 1·110, 133, 134–135inverse-square law of light, 1·286Inverted Flame Firebox, invention of,
3·208inverters, for microwaves, 2·189Invincible Vinaigre� e, 4·231ion-coagulated gels
characteristics of, 4·124–127using, how to, 4·129
ion-exchange � lter, for purifying water, 1·335
ionic bonds, 1·296ionic compounds, 1·330Ionnadis, John, 1·220ionotropic gelation, 4·184ions
de� nition of, 1·330gel coagulation and, 4·68, 124–127gel selection and, 4·73hard water and, 1·335, 3·278hydrocolloid coagulation and, 4·70hydrocolloid hydration and, 4·40sodium, dissolved in water, 3·154
iota carrageenanfor cold gels, parametric recipe for,
4·140controlling syneresis with, 4·17for � uid gels, parametric recipe for,
4·177hot, as Modernist cuisine quest, 4·127interactions with other thickeners,
4·44–45as ion-based coagulant, 4·124, 129product guide for, 4·II–IIIproperties and uses of, 4·42–43, 128for spheri� cation, parametric recipe
for, 4·187for thick foams, parametric recipe
for, 4·278–279irradiation. See radiationirreversible changes
measuring of, 1·268temperature and, 1·268, 270
isomaltfor edible � lms, parametric recipe
for, 4·60for set foams, parametric recipe for,
4·288–289for thick foams, parametric recipe
for, 4·278–279Italian sausage
Italian Sausage, 3·242sweet, parametric recipe for,
3·236–237Italy
early gastronomy of, 1·10–11espresso in, sociological role of, 4·374medieval cuisine in, 1·12Nouvelle cuisine in, 1·28–29Slow Food movement of, 1·23tradition and evolving cuisine of,
1·14–15wine regulation in, 4·332
Iuzzini, JohnnyBeet Flexicurd recipe, 4·219Green Tea Cake recipe, 4·292innovations of, 1·73
JJaccard tenderizers
for accelerating brining, 3·158, 166characteristics of, 3·51collagen mesh and, 3·76hazards with, 1·176meat juiciness and, 3·79
jacking, 2·379, 396, 397jalapeño chips, parametric recipe for,
3·328Jaleo, 1·67James I of Aragon, 5·244Jamin. See Robuchon, Joëljamón Ibérico
Ham Broth, 2·306Maillard reaction and, 3·173slicing, 3·50U.S. importation rules on, 1·173
Japanblocking tuna in, 3·54meat-grading system in, 3·36seam cu� ing in, 3·47tuna prices in, 3·52
Japanese rotary vegetable slicer, 3·327Japanese slow-cooked eggs, parametric
recipe for cooking, 4·78Japanese stock, parametric recipe for,
2·296–297Japanese vegetable sheeter, 3·326Japanese yams, cooking sous vide,
parametric recipe for, 3·292Jardin des Saveurs, 1·61jasmine essential oil, Apricot and
Jasmine Puree, 5·171, 173Jean Georges, 1·73Je� erson, � omas, 3·322Jell-O shot, 4·70jelly, Passion Fruit Jelly, 4·180Jenner, Edward, 2·85Jerusalem artichokes
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·289
Jerusalem Artichoke Pudding, 4·31Pickled Jerusalem Artichokes, 5·125,
131puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425
John Dorycooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·102in Seared Hamachi, 5·147, 149
Jones, Curt, 1·61, 72Jones Soda Company, Turkey & Gravy
seasonal � avor, 4·33joules, 1·272Joule, James Presco� , 1·272Journal of Food Protection, 1·181Journal of Wine Economics, 4·338juice. See also juicing
apple. See apple cider/apple juicebeef
parametric recipe for, 2·344–345Sous Vide Beef Juice, 2·349
centrifuge-spun, 2·360chicken, parametric recipe for,
2·344–345citrus, as acidi� er, 2·314, 315clarifying with Buon Vino pressure
� lter, how to, 2·355concentrating � avor of, 2·379frozen, freeze-drying of, 2·446
juice (continued)fruit, for acidic marinades, 3·195grape. See grapes; verjusfrom ground fruits or vegetables,
3·376keeping fresh taste of, 2·338–339
juicersfor raw food, 3·269types of, 2·332, 334
juicinessacidic marinades and, 3·192–193cooking meat and seafood and, 3·79,
83of meat
fat content and, 3·18from young vs. older animals, 3·79,
81juicing, 2·332–349
chemistry and, 2·335with enzymes, 2·335, 336equipment for, 2·332–335example recipes for, 2·340–341by freezing, 2·335, 337with osmosis, 2·336with pectinase from plants, 2·336reducing, in vacuum, 2·381strategies for, 2·338, 339
Julien, Honoré, 3·322Juneja, Vijay K., 1·180–181, 188, 190, 193� e Jungle (Sinclair), 3·35juniper berries
infusion of, parametric recipe for, 2·310
Juniper Brine, 5·35, 36Pork Tenderloin with Juniper, 5·35, 36
junk food, obesity and, 1·23jus, 2·343–349
beefAged Rare Beef Jus, 5·5, 6Beef Tenderloin with Jus de Roti,
4·54parametric recipe for, 2·344–345rare, parametric recipe for,
2·344–345Sous Vide Rare Beef Jus, 2·349
best bets for, 2·344–345bromelain for preparation of, 3·195characteristics of, 2·343chicken, brown, parametric recipe
for, 2·344–345concentrating � avor of, 2·379example recipes for, 2·346–349, 347,
5·25Green Asparagus and Morels with
Asparagus Jus, 2·341Jus de la Presse, 2·347Jus Gras, 4·237Lamb Garlic Jus in a Jar, 2·348, 5·25mushroom
Mushroom Jus, 2·348parametric recipe for, 2·344–345
mussel, parametric recipe for, 2·344–345
parametric recipe for, 2·344–345Pomegranate and Garum Jus, 5·121,
122reduced, � avor of roux vs., 4·11Root Vegetable Jus, 5·161, 163salmon, rare, parametric recipe for,
2·344–345Sous Vide Prawn Jus, 2·347thickening strategies for, 2·346Toasted Oat Jus, 5·126, 133
jus (continued)Tru� e Jus, 4·53vacuum evaporation for reducing,
2·346
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 85 3/22/11 10:56:39 AM
L X X X V I I N D E X
KABOCHA SQUASHKKkabocha squash
Braised Pine Nuts with Winter Squash, 5·60, 65
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·289, 290, 292
Kæstur Hákarl, chemistry of, 3·43Kahan, Paul, Achatz’s � rst meal at
elBulli and, 1·38Kalbi Flank Steak, 3·199Kamozawa, Aki
Aerated Gruyère and, 4·312on blanching sous vide, 3·293on browned solids from clari� ed
bu� er, 4·212chicken skin glued to scallops by,
3·252Compressed Melon Terrine recipe,
3·392on cooking whole chicken eggs, 4·75fast hot-spring eggs and, 4·78� sh skin pillows of, 3·131gel � ltration and, 2·369Goat Cheese Dumplings recipe,
4·105Ideas in Food blog and, 1·66, 67Modernist Béchamel and, 4·31Pasta Marinara recipe, 3·386Pulled Mushroom recipe, 3·396smoked eggs by, 4·100Whipped Yogurt Crisps recipe,
4·292Kanpachi Sashimi with Citrus Foam,
4·269Kansas City BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 68Kansas Rub, 5·66, 68kappa carrageenan
for cold gels, parametric recipe for, 4·140
for � uid gels, parametric recipe for, 4·177
interactions with other thickeners, 4·44–45
product guide for, 4·II–IIIproperties and uses of, 4·42–43, 128
Karabecue smoker, 3·208Karau, Bill, 3·208Kasper, Lynn Rosse� o, 3·306katsuobushi, 2·143Kaufman, C. W., 3·92Kaufman, Galen, 2·469Keller, � omas
Achatz’s � rst meal at elBulli and, 1·38, 52
Cauli� ower Panna Co� a recipe, 4·142, 162
Curry Oil recipe, 2·331New International cuisine and,
1·30–31oyster and pearls of, 5·205Red-Onion Cream recipe, 3·68Salmon Tartare Cornets recipe, 3·68sous vide cooking and, 1·73Tomato Powder recipe, 3·312
kelp, 5·28Kelp Company, 4·40Kelvin, Lord, 4·246Kelvin Problem, 4·246Kelvin temperature scale, 1·266, 285–286
Kennedy, Rob, liquid nitrogen ice cream and, 1·63
Kentucky BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 71Kentucky Fried Chicken franchise,
1·22–23, 76, 2·120Kerala Curry, 5·90, 91, 96keratin, in gizzards, 3·141ketchup
Mushroom Ketchup, 5·11, 13as shear-thinning � uid, 4·6, 176
ketosis, Atkins diet and, 1·242Keurig espresso machine, co� ee
capsules for, 4·400Keys, Ancel
on fat and heart disease, 1·219, 224–225, 226
on Mediterranean diet, 1·232on saturated fats, 1·234
Keys to Good Cooking (McGee), 1·43Kick’s law, 2·401kidneys
characteristics of, 3·141cooking, 3·141
sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·146
kielbasa, parametric recipe for, 3·236–237
kilocalories, 1·272kilowa� s, 1·272kimchi
Kimchi, 3·352Watermelon Rind Kimchi, 5·285,
286kimchi consommé, parametric recipe
for, 2·374–375Kinch, David
Beef and Oyster Tartare recipe, 3·66Beef Cheek Pastrami recipe, 3·213Corn Croque� a recipe, 3·341Corn Custard recipe, 4·122“Into the Vegetable Garden” and,
3·294, 4·37 Modernist cuisine and, 1·67Strawberry Gazpacho recipe, 5·277Turbot with Onion and Marrow
Broth recipe, 3·105king trumpet mushrooms, Pulled
Mushroom, 3·396Kistler, Samuel Stephens, 4·72kitchen, Modernist. See Modernist
kitchenkitchen hygiene, 1·200–205
chef ’s accessories for, 1·202–203contaminants and, 1·200disinfecting procedures for, 1·200,
204technology of UV powder and, 1·201
kitchen management, Esco� er’s system for, 1·20
kitchen space, contamination and, 1·200
ki� y li� er, food safety and, 1·126kiwifruit
compressing, parametric recipe for, 3·390
impregnating, parametric recipe for, 3·390
introduction of, 1·15Klock, Gerd, freeze � ltration and, 2·369kminkowa, parametric recipe for,
3·236–237Knot Foie, 4·144Knox, Charles, 4·67
Koch, Robert, 4·128Kocuria, 3·165Ko� mann, Pierre, 1·28kohlrabi, cooking sous vide, parametric
recipe for, 3·289, 290, 292Kohman, E. F., 2·84Kokonas, Nik, 1·68, 69kombu. See seaweedKomm, Anatoly, 1·70konjac gum
interactions with other thickeners, 4·44–45
product guide for, 4·II–IIIproperties and uses of, 4·42–43thickening with, parametric recipe
for, 4·46, 47kori bustard, 1·253K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen, 1·28, 29Kra� , James L., 1·24, 4·222Kroc, Ray, 1·21–22, 31kudzu starch, thickening with, 4·28
parametric recipe for, 4·28Kumamoto oysters, in Shigoku Oyster
with Fizzy Grapes, Fresh Wasabi, and Miso Powder, 5·197, 200
kumquatscooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·291Yuzu and Kumquat Marmalade,
3·356Kunz, Gray
pacotizing by, 2·407Sous Vide and Pressure-Cooked
Veal Breast with Bulbous Vegetables recipe, 3·111
kuri squashBraised Pine Nuts with Winter
Squash, 5·60, 65cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·289, 290Kurti, Nicholas
Erice Conferences and, 1·44, 45liquid nitrogen ice cream and,
1·61–62, 65kuru, as prion disease, 1·158Kusshi oysters, Poached Oysters, 5·233,
236
LLa Broche, 1·57LA gellan. See low-acyl gellanLa Marzocco, 4·398, 400L.A. Provincial cuisine, Puck and, 1·29La Reynière (aka Robert Courtine), 1·26La Varenne, École de, 4·322–325La Varenne, François Pierre de
as chef to French ruling class, 1·8, 9French cuisine and, 1·19innovations of, 1·20
laboratory scales, for measuring thickeners, 4·23
laboratory sievesfor � ltering, 2·351, 352, 353for Modernist kitchen, 2·286
lactase intolerance, 1·239lactic acid, as acidi� er, 2·314Lactobacillus bulgaricus, 1·134Lactobacillus plantarum, 1·134Lactobacillus san� anciscensis, 1·134Lactococcus lactis, 1·144lactose-free cream, centrifuging to
separate, 2·368Ladenis, Nico, 1·62
Nouvelle cuisine and individuality of, 1·28
L’Air du Temps, 1·70Laiskonis, Michael
Chili Pearls recipe, 4·145innovations of, 1·73
Lake Nyos, Cameroon, carbon dioxide eruption from, 2·466
laksaBurmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa, 4·121Laksa Broth, 2·307
l’Amador, 1·70lamb. See also sheep
aging, 3·41Braised Lamb Shoulder, 5·81, 83cooking
di� erences for parts of, 3·18sous vide, parametric recipe for,
3·96, 109times for, 1·121
fast-twitch vs. slow-twitch muscle in, 3·12
Lamb Garlic Jus in a Jar, 2·348, 5·25leaner, using Activa for making, 3·255Poached Lamb Loin, 5·85, 87Rack of Lamb, 5·25, 29seam cu� ing, 3·45
how to, 3·46searing before vacuum packing of,
2·268lamb stock, parametric recipe for,
2·296–298lamb sweetbreads, cooking sous vide,
parametric recipe for, 3·146lambda carrageenan
interactions with other thickeners, 4·44–45
product guide for, 4·II–IIIproperties and uses of, 4·42–43, 128thickening with, parametric recipe
for, 4·46, 47Lamblia intestinalis, 1·127–128Landhotel Kirchdach, 1·70Lang, George, 5·55
on Hungarian beef goulash, 5·55
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 86 3/22/11 10:56:39 AM
I N D E X L X X X V I I
LOCUST BEAN GUM Llangoustines. See also prawns
biology of, 3·28cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·103Seared Langoustine, 5·239, 245
language, evolution of, 1·15lap cheong, parametric recipe for,
3·244–245L’Archestrate, 5·109lard, pork, chemistry of, 2·126larding, 3·84Larousse Gastronomique (Montagné,
1938), 1·9Las Vegas, Nevada, New International
cuisine in, 1·30lasagna, in oldest cookbook in English,
1·10laser (laserpicium), history of, 1·11–12lasers, for smoking, 1·69L’Astrance, 1·64latent heat of vaporization
in AccuTemp griddles, 2·41as phase change, 1·290, 299–300science of how liquid nitrogen boils
and, 2·457steaming and, 2·70
Latin AmericaHorchata drinks in, 4·59Incan and Mayan gastronomy of, 1·13wine innovation in, 4·332
la� e (ca� è la� e)as art form, 4·391–393composition of, 4·393milk foam in, 4·244pa� erns in, how to make, 4·394–395
lava rocks, in gas grills, 2·11laws, U.S. See also U.S. Food and Drug
Administrationon advertising and label health
claims, 1·214on distillation, 1·94, 2·384, 391on food safety, 1·165, 190local, for laboratory equipment, 1·94
LBG. See locust bean gumLD50, foodborne illnesses and,
1·115–116LDL (low-density lipoproteins), 1·226,
227Le Bernardin, 1·73Le Calandre, 1·70Le Postay, 1·70LEARN diet, 1·242leathers
dehydrating formula for, 3·367Mandarin Leather, 3·369
lecithin, soyde-oiled, for airs and froths,
parametric recipe for, 4·264product guide for, 4·II–III
leeksCharred Leek Oil, 5·17, 18cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·289dehydrating, parametric recipe for,
3·366Root Vegetable Jus, 5·161, 163Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 5·49, 53
Lefeuvre, Clémence, 4·218legumes. See also speci� c legumes
converting grams to volumes for, 5·XXXVI
water content of, 5·XLILeidenfrost, Johann Go� lob, 1·317
Leidenfrost e� ect, 1·317, 2·464, 466lemon verbena
infusion of, parametric recipe for, 2·310
Lemon Verbena and Peach Froth, 4·273
lemon zest infusion, parametric recipe for, 2·310
lemongrass infusion, parametric recipe for, 2·310
lemonsas acidi� er, 2·314Citrus Air, 4·265cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·291Eggless Citrus Curd, 4·234, 5·157Grapefruit and Black Pepper, 4·276Lemon Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel, 4·180Lemon Strips, 4·61Meyer Lemonade, 2·340Pickled Lemon, 5·273, 275Preserved Lemons, 3·350, 5·135for set foams, parametric recipe for,
4·288–289Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 4·227
lentilsLentil Salad plated-dish recipe,
5·267–271pu� ed, parametric recipe for, 4·302Sous Vide Lentils, 5·267, 271
Lespinasse. See Kunz, Graylethal dose, foodborne illnesses and,
1·115–116le� uce
cold-smoking, 3·361compressing, parametric recipe for,
3·390freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,
2·451, 3·372impregnating, parametric recipe for,
3·390romaine
Caesar Salad, 3·373Smoked Le� uce, 5·11, 15
water content of, 3·273, 276Leung, Alvin, Jr., 1·70libraries, rare-book, freeze-drying by,
2·444licorice
Licorice Powder, 2·405Salmon Poached in Licorice, 4·155
licorice root infusion, parametric recipe for, 2·310
lids, for pot-roasting or braising pots, 2·96Liebrandt, Paul, 1·69
Foie Gras Cherries recipe, 5·267Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and
Hibiscus Glaze recipe, 4·158–159“Into the Vegetable Garden” and,
3·294Life of Luxury (Archestratos of Gela,
Sicily), 1·12light
cooking meat and seafood and, 3·93–94
infraredblackbodies and, 1·285measuring, 1·287radiation and, 1·284
speed of, � nding with microwave oven, 2·191
ultraviolet. See ultraviolet radiation
light foams, 4·270–277best bets for, 4·270example recipes for, 4·272–277parametric recipe for, 4·270
lignin, smoked food and, 2·134limes
as acidi� er, 2·314Citrus Air, 4·265cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·291Cryopoached Green Tea Sour, 4·291Eggless Citrus Curd, 4·234Lychee and Lime Soda, 4·268
Lindt, Rudolph, conche machine and, 2·404
Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused Milk, 3·103
linguine, from gel sheets, how to make, 4·134
links, sausage, 3·230, 240Linnaeus, Carl (Linné, Carl von), 1·112,
266lipids, 1·222. See also cholesterol; fats; oilslipoproteins, low-density, 1·226, 227liquamen, 3·195, 5·121liquids. See also speci� c liquids
for breading, 3·338carbonation of, 2·468clarifying with agar, 2·372–373cold, best bets for thickening, 4·46concentrating � avor of, 2·380convection of heat in, 1·282, 283converting grams to volumes for,
5·XXXVIIfermented, intolerance to, 1·239� ltering strategies for, 2·352hot
best bets for thickening, 4·47physics of blowing on, 1·288
internal energy, physics of, 1·301Newtonian, 4·6phase changes and thermal energy
from, 1·290phases of, mouthfeel and, 4·10rheologic descriptions of, 4·VIIIseparating by centrifuging, 2·364shear-thinning, 4·6sous vide technique of extracting,
2·251thickening, 4·5vacuum packing
with chamber sealer, 2·219physics of, 2·215
viscosity of. See viscosityLiquid Center Duck Egg, 5·219, 220liquid nitrogen. See also speci� c
techniques using liquid nitrogenacronym or abbreviation for, 2·456Adrià and, 1·39boiling, science of, 2·457cooking with, 2·456, 458, 459cryogenic freezing using, 2·456culinary life of, 1·60–66, 68, 70culinary strategies for using, 2·459freezing in vacuum of, 1·324freezing using, 1·310–311, 2·258fruit disassembly with, 2·458, 462ice cream freezing with, 1·311meat grinder rinsing with, 3·221,
224–225for Modernist kitchen, 2·284pacotizing and, 2·407, 410peeling eggs with, how to, 4·78
liquid nitrogen (continued)pros and cons of, 2·259research laboratories’ use of, 2·456safe handling of, 2·464, 466, 467sausage grinding and, 3·230sources of, 2·458viscosity of, 4·6
Liquid Pimento Olive, 4·193liquid smoke
chemistry of, 2·149for cold-smoking, 3·361
liquor. See also alcohol (ethanol); speci� c alcoholic beverages
distillation of, 2·384, 390production process for, 1·256seasoning with, 2·317
Lirio, Jack, 1·26Lisińska, Grażyna, 3·322Listeria monocytogenes
as foodborne pathogen, 1·134nisin and replication of, 1·145refrigeration and, 2·257replication limits of, 1·145wine marinade with oregano against,
1·145listeriosis, 1·134liver. See also speci� c animals
characteristics of, 3·138cooking sous vide, 3·146
liver � ukes, 1·123–124LM pectin. See low-methoxyl pectinLMA pectin, as gelling agent, 4·68lobster
biology of, 3·28–30brining, parametric recipe for, 3·172cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·103freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,
2·451Jus de la Presse, 2·347Lobster Américaine plated-dish
recipe, 5·184–18719th-Century-Style Lobster with
Sherry and Cocoa, 3·107Poached Lobster, 4·219Poached Lobster Tail, 5·185, 187Salted, Freeze-Dried Lobster, 2·454,
5·185as seafood gel, 3·222
lobster mushroomscooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·289Lobster Mushroom Con� t, 5·185, 187
local food, current buzz on, 1·248locust bean gum (LBG)
for cold emulsions, 5·187for cold gels, parametric recipe for,
4·140controlling syneresis with, 4·17as foam stabilizer, 4·257for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe
for, 4·165for hot gels, parametric recipe, 4·160interactions with other thickeners,
4·44–45natural source for, 1·253, 257product guide for, 4·II–IIIproperties and uses of, 4·42–43separating bu� erfat from cream
with, 2·366, 368source of, 4·124thickening with, parametric recipe
for, 4·46, 47
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 87 3/22/11 10:56:40 AM
L X X X V I I I I N D E X
LONG ISLAND ICED TEA GEL SHOTLLong Island Iced Tea Gel Shot, 4·141lotus root
Spot Prawn and Lotus Root Tempura with Smoked White Soy Sauce, 5·197, 201
Wok-Fried Malaysian Vegetables, 5·167, 169
lotus root chips, parametric recipe for, 3·328
L’Oustau de Baumanière, 1·49lovage, Romans’ use of, 1·11Low Fat “Cream,” 4·57low-acyl (LA) gellan
for cold gels, parametric recipe for, 4·140
concentrations for � uid gels of, 4·Vfor edible � lms, parametric recipe
for, 4·60for � uid gels, parametric recipe for,
4·177as foam stabilizer, 4·257for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe
for, 4·165for hot gels, parametric recipe for,
4·160interactions with other thickeners,
4·44–45as ion-based coagulant, 4·124, 127,
129for light foams, parametric recipe
for, 4·270product guide for, 4·II–IIIproperties and uses of, 4·42–43, 72for spheri� cation, parametric recipe
for, 4·187for thick foams, parametric recipe
for, 4·278–279low-carbohydrate diets, 1·242low-density lipoproteins (LDL), 1·226,
227Low-Fat Chicken Sausage, 3·248low-fat diets, 1·241low-methoxyl (LM) pectin
for cold gels, parametric recipe for, 4·140
for edible � lms, parametric recipe for, 4·60
as gelling agent, 4·68interactions with thickeners, 4·44–45as ion-based coagulant, 4·124, 127,
129product guide for, 4·II–IIIproperties and uses of, 4·42–43, 72spheri� cation using, 4·184
low-pressure drying, 2·433low-temperature, long-time (LTLT)
pasteurization, 1·188low-temperature cooking. See also target
core temperaturedomestic ovens and, 1·207of meat and seafood, 3·94–95sous vide technique and, 2·242thermometer accuracy and,
1·206–207low-temperature steam mode
in combi ovens, 2·167in CVap water-vapor oven, 2·158, 159ovens using, 2·155
LTLT (low-temperature, long-time) pasteurization, 1·188
L20 (restaurant), 1·69Lucas Carton, wine pairing at, 4·352
lungoblonding phase and, 4·388evolution of, 4·379
Lutaud, Christian, 1·34lute� sk, 3·200
alkaline marinades for, 3·194lychees
Fricassee of Fava Beans and Lychees, 5·171, 173
Lychee and Lime Soda, 4·268preserving, parametric recipe for,
3·348Shaved Foie Gras, 3·177Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage,
4·233lyophilization, 2·444. See also freeze-
drying
MMac and Cheese, 3·387macchiato, 4·393mackerel
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·102
Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin, 4·175
macroclimates, wine and, 4·329mad cow disease
politics of, 1·160–161prions and, 1·156sheep and, 1·157spread of, 1·159
Madeira Gelée, 5·125, 131Madrid Fusión, 1·59magnesium, as alkali earth metal, 4·126magnetic stirring bar
dispersing thickeners with, 4·24, 25hydrating thickeners with, 4·26hydrocolloid dispersion with, 4·38for Modernist kitchen, 2·284for vacuum reduction, 2·380
Maillard, Louis Camille, 2·343, 3·92Maillard reaction
baking and, 2·108browning onions and, 3·277century eggs and, 4·83co� ee roasting and, 4·358, 360color changes in cooking meat and
seafood and, 3·94crustaceans and, 3·30, 87deep-frying and, 2·122dry-aging meat and, 3·41� avors produced by, 2·198, 3·89–91heterocyclic amines and, 1·220history of, 3·92meat cooking methods and, 2·343modern methods of braising and,
2·98mollusks and, 3·87oil temperature and, 2·122pot-roasting and, 2·96pressure-cooking and, 3·298ripening of cured meat or seafood
and, 3·173searing before vacuum packing and,
2·268smoking and, 2·141steak frying and, 3·74stir-frying and, 2·48, 54sugar in sausage and, 3·226vegetables and, 2·58
Mainstone, John, 4·9Maison Troisgros, 1·73. See also
Troisgros, Pierre and Jeanmaitake mushrooms, Sautéed Maitake
Mushroom, 5·11, 15malaise, general, common pathogens
causing, 1·114Malaysian Aromatic Oil, 5·167, 168Malaysian Steamed Snapper plated-dish
recipe, 5·167–169malic acid, as acidi� er, 2·314Malt Vinegar Powder, 4·34maltodextrin
as bulking agent with spray-dried powders, 2·442
drying plant foods with, 3·365
maltodextrin DE 8, for edible � lms, parametric recipe for, 4·60
maltodextrin DE 19, for set foams, parametric recipe for, 4·288–289
Maltrin, thickening with, 4·30parametric recipe for, 4·30
Maltrin M100for light foams, parametric recipe
for, 4·270for set foams, parametric recipe for,
4·288–289mandarins
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·291
Mandarin Leather, 3·369Manet, Edouard, 1·18mangoes
Aerated Mango Sorbet, 4·311cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·288, 290dehydrating, parametric recipe for,
3·366Green Mango and Cashew Salad,
5·167, 169preserving, parametric recipe for,
3·348mannitol, Frozen White “Tru� e,”
3·400–401Manresa, 1·67maple syrup
grades of, 5·77Maple Vinegar Gastrique, 5·125, 128production process for, 1·256
Maple Vinegar Gastrique, 5·125, 128Marangoni e� ect, 4·353marbling
tenderness and, 3·78in Wagyu beef, 3·19, 36
Marchesi, GualtieroNouvelle cuisine and, 1·28Riso� o Milanese recipe, 3·306–307
Marcona Almond Bu� er Paste, 5·281, 282
Maremoto, 1·70margarine, health risks of bu� er vs.,
1·231Marinated Crab Salad, 5·189, 191Marinated Geoduck, Young Ginger,
Shiso, 5·197, 200Marinated Ogo, 5·175, 177Marinated Spaghe� i Squash, 5·147, 149marinating, 3·190–207
with acid, 3·192–193with alcohol, 3·195, 198with alkaline substances, 3·194–195with curries, 3·196–197of eggs, in vinegar, 4·75with enzymes, 3·195example recipes for, 3·199–206,
5·233fermentation and, 3·198marinades for
acidic, for stomach and intestines, 3·143
calcium chloride in, 3·76strategies for, 3·192
marine-based hydrocolloidsgelling agents from, 4·68, 126for kitchen use, 4·124thickening agents from, 4·5, 19
marmaladeMushroom Marmalade, 5·215, 217Olive Marmalade, 4·99
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 88 3/22/11 10:56:40 AM
I N D E X L X X X I X
MELTING POINTS Mmarmalade (continued)
Roasted Scallion Marmalade, 5·253, 255
Shiitake Marmalade, 5·5, 7Walnut Clam Marmalade, 5·229, 230
“Marmite broth,” parametric recipe for, 2·304–305
marrow. See also veal marrowbonescharacteristics and cooking of, 3·144
Marshall, Agnes, 1·60, 64–65Marx, � ierry, 1·64Masala Curry, 5·90, 91, 98mascarpone cheese
parametric recipe for, 4·56Shrimp and Grits, 3·377
Mason, Samaesthetics of nature in dishes of, 4·37chocolate water and, 2·374–375Modernist cuisine and, 1·67
mass, conservation of, 1·331Massachuse� s Institute of Technology,
Carl G. Sontheimer Prize for Excellence in Innovation and Creativity in Design of, 2·412
Massialot, François, French cuisine and, 1·19
Master Cleanse, of toxins, 1·248master recipes, parametric recipes
compared to, 1·97masting, as synchronized fruit ripening,
3·284Mathematica (computer program),
1·63–64, 282Matsuhisa, Nobu
Miso-Cured Black Cod recipe, 3·179New International cuisine and, 1·30
matsutake mushrooms, Bincho-Tan-Grilled Sea Cucumber Maitake Mushroom, Shisito Pepper, 5·197, 203
Maurere, Wilhelm, 2·407maw, 3·142–143Maximin, Jacques, 1·34
Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil Puree recipe, 2·426
Maxwell, James Clerk, 1·265, 285Mayans, gastronomy of, 1·13mayonnaise
Basic Mayonnaise, 4·226, 5·233Eggless Mayonnaise, 4·232as emulsion, 4·199
separation and, 3·224viscosity of, 4·204
Hot Egg Mayonnaise, 4·227low-fat, 4·226
MC. See methylcelluloseMCC. See microcrystalline celluloseMcCracken, Brain, Modernist raviolo
al’uovo of, 4·190McCrady’s, 1·67, 83McDonald’s, corporate control and
protests against, 1·22–23McGee, Harold
biography of, 1·43Blumenthal and, 1·50on cold gels, 4·140Erice Conference and, 1·44, 45on experimental cooking, 1·57–58on � ipping food during panfrying,
2·38food science and, 1·5, 42, 44, 52Mac and Cheese recipe, 3·387on Modernist cuisine explosion, 1·46on searing meat to seal in juices, 3·85
McGuckian, Ambrose T., 1·40measures
conversion factors for, 5·XXXVIII–XXXIX
volume, converting, 5·XXXIXweights and, 1·94–95
meats. See also speci� c meatsaging of, 3·39
enzymes and, 3·39, 41, 78holding at speci� c temperature
and, 2·247–248arti� cial, 3·220. See also sausagesblanching, 2·269brining, 3·152, 154–156, 158
best bets for, 3·172equilibrium, how-to, 3·170–171speeding strategies for, 3·166, 173
chemicals as preservatives for, 1·144chopping tools for, 3·230–233cold-smoking, parametric recipe for,
3·210color of, 3·12, 14–15cooked, red droplets on, 3·14cooked and � nely chopped,
volumetric equivalents for amounts of, 5·XLV
cooking, 3·70–115on bone, 2·243braising, how to, 2·99collagen role in, 3·80–81color and appearance of, 3·92–93cooling strategies for, 2·256defects of cured meat, chemistry
of, 3·165� avor and, 3·84, 87–91gelatin from, 4·67grilling and. See grillingideal temperature for, 3·89innards of, 3·136–151juiciness and, 3·79, 83muscles and, 3·5myth of searing to seal juices and,
3·85optics of, 3·93–94pot-roasting and, how to, 2·99red, in combi ovens vs. water baths,
2·167–168safe, principles for, 1·191searing and, 2·58, 269, 3·85simpli� ed cooking standards for,
1·192skin and, 3·116–129, 133–135sous vide, 2·201, 276–279sous vide, on bone vs. � llet, 2·207stages from raw to cooked and,
3·76, 78–79succulence and, 3·83–84tenderness and, 3·70, 76trade-o� s in, 3·94–95white and gray droplets on surface
during, 3·94cured, ripening of, 3·167, 173curing, 3·158–162, 165–166
best bets for, 3·172speeding strategies for, 3·166, 173
cu� ing, 3·44–50tools for, 3·230–233
dark. See dark meat; red meatextended and simpli� ed 6.5D
Salmonella reduction in, 1·193fat, as tough cut, science of, 3·83fat component of, 3·15, 18
meats (continued) FDA time-and-temperature table for,
1·183, 185, 187as � ning agent, 2·359, 360� avor and temperature of, 3·88–89� avor of, Maillard reaction and,
3·89–91freeze-drying, critical temperature
for, 2·446gassing, for color, chemistry of, 3·95gels and. See meat gelsglue and, 3·250–256, 4·70. See also
Activagrading, 3·35–36, 39grinding
grinders for. See meat grinderstools for, 3·230–233
grinding fat and, how to, 3·228ground
converting grams to volume for, 5·XLII
for stock, 2·290juiciness of, age of animal and, 3·79,
81le� over, chemistry of � avor of, 3·91marinating, 3·190–207meat glue and, 3·250–256muscle and
characteristics of, 3·6–19converting into meat, 3·32–36, 39,
41–42punctured, hazards of, 1·176raw, 3·62–69
example recipes for, 3·65–68fat content of, 5·XLIII
red. See red meatresting
e� ects of, 3·84juices and, 2·105
restructuredmeat glue and, 3·250–256sausage as. See sausages
salting. See brining; curingsausages. See sausagesslaughtering practices for
Grandin’s research on, 3·36quality and, 3·32, 34–35
slicers for, 2·286, 3·44, 50smoking, 3·208–219
best bets for, 3·210example recipe for, 3·213ideal surface for, 3·211parametric recipe for, 3·210
sources for, 5·XXXIIIfor stocks, 2·288tartares and, 3·62–69temperature and � avor of, 3·88–89tender cuts of. See tender cuts of meattenderizing enzymes in, 3·78tenderizing of
food safety and, 1·191foodborne illnesses and, 1·176mechanical, 1·176, 191, 3·10, 50–51muscle structure and, 3·10tenderizers for, 1·176, 2·286. See
also Jaccard tenderizerstenderness of, 3·10–11
Warner-Bratzler tenderometer estimates of, 3·77
tough cuts of. See tough cuts of meatTrichinella contamination of, 1·117–
118, 120, 121, 122, 179
meats (continued)trimmings from, for searing � avor
without presearing, 2·268vegetarian dishes simulating, 3·388water content of, 5·XLof young vs. older animals, juiciness
and, 3·79, 81meat band saw, for Modernist kitchen,
2·285meat ba� er, 3·222Meat Cuts and Muscle Foods (Swatland),
3·44meat gels
embedding meat in, 3·250of emulsi� ed sausages, 3·222myosin as, 3·70, 222–223for sausage-making, 3·70, 222–223
meat glue, 3·250–256, 4·70. See also Activa
meat grindersbit-and-plate, 3·231, 233cutaway illustration of, 3·229grinding plates for, typical aperture
sizes of, 3·228liquid nitrogen rinse of, 3·221,
224–225Meat Inspection Act, 3·35meat slicers
Berkel, 3·44for Modernist kitchen, 2·286for very thin slices, 3·50
meat tenderizersJaccard. See Jaccard tenderizersfor Modernist kitchen, 2·286penetrating, hazards with, 1·176
meatballs, as coarse sausage, 3·222, 230meatloaf, as coarse sausage, 3·222mechanical tenderizing, of meat, 3·50–51
food safety and, 1·191foodborne illnesses and, 1·176muscle structure and, 3·10
medals, for wines, 4·338–339medical dietary systems, 1·222–239Mediterranean diet, 1·232, 241, 242medlars, ble� ing to ripen, 3·283Lo mejor de la gastronomía, 1·59melanoidin pigments, in fruits and
vegetables, 2·267Meli� a co� ee brewer, 4·369melons
Compressed Melon Terrine, 3·392compressing, parametric recipe for,
3·390cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·288Ham Consommé with Melon Beads,
4·48heat-treating, parametric recipe for,
3·359impregnating, parametric recipe for,
3·390Melon Caviar, 4·189Melon Water, 2·340preserving, parametric recipe for,
3·348Prosciu� o and Melon “Raw Egg,”
4·194Watermelon Chips, 3·328Watermelon Meat, 3·394, 5·285Watermelon Rind Kimchi, 5·285, 286
melon chips, parametric recipe for, 3·328melting points. See also freezing point
of frying oils, 2·126
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 89 3/22/11 10:56:40 AM
X C I N D E X
MEMBRANE-TYPE VACUUM PUMPSMmembrane-type vacuum pumps
� ltration with, 2·354, 357for Modernist kitchen, 2·284vacuum reduction using, 2·380, 381
membranes, reverse osmosis through, 2·379, 396
memoryBlumenthal’s use of, 1·51García’s use of, 1·57
Memphis BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 70Memphis Rub, 5·66, 68Meneau, Marc, Cromesquis recipe,
3·340merguez, parametric recipe for,
3·236–237meringues
Cryopoached Dill Meringue, 5·161, 165
Green Olive Meringue, 4·298as set foam, 4·247
meta-analysisde� nition of, 1·216of dietary fat and heart disease,
1·230randomized trials vs., 1·219of salt and hypertension, 1·236, 237of statins and heart disease, 1·227
metal searing bars, in gas grills, 2·11metallic bonding, 1·296metals
alkali earth, 4·126conductivity of, 1·277
metastabilityof emulsions, 4·199of foams, 4·248
methanol, as ethanol distillation by-product, 2·384
Methocel E4M, for edible � lms, parametric recipe for, 4·60
Methocel SGA 150, for edible � lms, parametric recipe for, 4·60
methylcellulose (MC)for cellulose gum gels, parametric
recipe for, 4·170, 171for � ltering or clarifying, 2·352as � ning agent, 2·359, 360foam, 4·255gels, best bets for, 4·171interactions with other thickeners,
4·44–45product guide for, 4·IV–Vproperties and uses of, 4·42–43Santamaria on, 1·258thermo-reversible gels from, 4·127
methylcellulose A4C, for thick foams, parametric recipe for, 4·278–279
methylcellulose E4M, for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe for, 4·165
methylcellulose F50, for set foams, parametric recipe for, 4·288–289
metmyoglobin, 3·93metric units, converting energy and
power units using, 1·272–273Meyer Lemonade, 2·340miang kham, 5·189Miang Paste, 5·189, 190Miang Syrup, 5·189, 191micelle, 4·199Michelin Guide, 1·24, 26Micri, 4·29microaerophilic bacteria, 1·130
microbes. See also bacteria; pathogens; viruses
contamination bybad odors from sealed bags and,
2·214shell� sh foraging and, 3·27–28
gelling agents from, 4·126as germs, 1·106–109microbiology of, 1·106–109Pasteur on food spoilage and, 2·75
microbial-based hydrocolloids, as thickeners, 4·19
microbiology, 1·102–161of foodborne illnesses, 1·110–119of foodborne pathogens, 1·108–109of microbes as germs, 1·106–109microscopes for study of, 1·107of parasitic worms, 1·120–125of prions, 1·156–161of protists, 1·126–129scienti� c names in, 1·112of viruses, 1·152–156
microclimates, wine and, 4·329microcrystalline cellulose (MCC)
interactions with other thickeners, 4·44–45
product guide for, 4·IV–Vproperties and uses of, 4·42–43as thickener, 4·12–13thickening with, parametric recipe
for, 4·47microemulsions, science of, 4·205Micrographia (Hooke), 1·107microorganisms, 1·106. See also
bacteria; microbes; virusesmicrooxygenation (MOX), in
viticulture, 4·330–331Microplane graters
Adrià’s use of, 1·36, 3·388cu� ing vegetables for frying with,
3·327microporous � ltration, 1·335microscopes, history and parts of, 1·107microwave ovens
characteristics of, 2·182–183, 189cutaway illustration of, 2·186–187drying in, 2·430FDA rules on, 1·189heating small foods slowly in,
physics of, 2·188invention of, 1·22, 2·182–183for Modernist kitchen, 2·287moisture content of food and, 2·153myths and reality of, physics of,
2·190parts of, 2·184plant food cooking in, 3·310–313radiant heat from, 1·277safety, 2·190speed of light in, physics of � nding,
2·191strategies for using, 2·185
Microwaved Beef Jerky, 3·184, 5·43Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake,
4·294Microwaved Tilapia with Scallions and
Ginger, 3·115microwaved vegetables
example recipes for, 3·312–313parametric recipe for, 3·311
Microwave-Fried Parsley, 3·312Microwave-Fried Parsley and Carrot
Tops, 5·49, 53
microwavesde� nition of, 2·182freeze-drying and, 2·444
Middle Ages, gastronomy of, 1·12middle run, in distillation, 2·384Mie sca� ering, in emulsions, 4·203milk. See also milks
allergies to, 1·238almond, parametric recipe for, 4·56bu� er from, 3·92Cappuccino Foam, 4·266carotenoid pigments and, 3·92Cauli� ower Crème Anglaise, 4·89chocolate, as colloidal suspension,
4·176chufa. See chufa milkcolors of, 3·92, 4·202cow, allergies to, 1·238dairy-based emulsions and, 4·218colors of, 4·202fat content and steaming of, 4·391,
392foaming agent in, 4·251fresh, frigi-canning and, 2·84goat
carotenoid pigments and, 3·92color of, 4·202Goat Milk Rico� a, 4·108
hydrating LA gellan with, 4·124–125Milk Foam, 5·31, 33Milk Skin, 5·205Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and
Tru� e Puree, 4·114as oil-in-water emulsion, 4·199parametric recipe for, 4·56powdered, in fermented sausage,
3·246soy
Frozen White “Tru� e,” 3·400–401Soy Milk, 4·58
steamingfor espresso, 4·391–395how to, 4·390
Strawberry Milk Shake, 2·473, 5·11Toasted Rice Milk, 4·59viscosity of, 4·6
milk curd, basic, parametric recipe for, 4·104
Milk Foam, 5·31, 33milk frother. See also Aerola� e milk
frotherfor espresso, 4·391foam forming with, 4·258, 260
milk shake machinefoam forming with, 4·258, 259for Modernist kitchen, 2·287
Milk Skin, 5·205Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and
Tru� e Puree, 4·114milks, making, best bets for, 4·56Millau, Christian, 1·24, 26milling. See also grinding; pureeing
equipment for, 2·401–402, 404. See also colloid mills
example recipes for, 2·419, 3·377frozen nuts, 3·374of plant foods, 3·376–377strategies for, 2·400
minerals, dissolved. See also dissolved materials
hard water and, 1·335minibar (restaurant), 1·63, 67Minnesota Coronary Survey, 1·229, 230
mint, freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, 3·372
miracle berry, Nigerian, 2·465mirepoix, for stocks, 2·288mirin, Yakitori, 3·201miscible substances, 1·331, 332Miso-Cured Black Cod, 3·179Miso-Cured Egg Sheets, 4·87miso-cured egg yolks, parametric recipe
for, 4·82mixers
foam forming with, 4·258for Modernist kitchen, 2·287
MKS (meter, kilogram, second) units, 1·272
mock dishes, types of, 3·388Mock Turtle Soup, 2·394modern ovens. See also combi ovens;
convection ovens; CVap water-vapor ovens; microwave ovens; ovens; water-vapor ovens
heat and humidity control testing in, 2·156–157
improvement proposals for, 2·167temperature control by, 2·112
ModernCure, for brining or curing, 3·158
Modernism. See also Modernist cuisineas megatrend in culture, 1·17–18Nouvelle cuisine and, 1·52, 56as revolution in culture, 1·52
Modernist Béchamel, 4·31Modernist Burrata, 4·109Modernist cuisine
Achatz and, 1·68Adrià, elBulli, and, 1·33–40in America, 1·67Blumenthal, � e Fat Duck, and,
1·49–51Capel and, 1·59in Chicago, 1·69copying in, history of, 1·71critical responses to, history of,
1·62–63cryogens in, 1·60–66, 68, 70forms of dishes in, 1·54–55future of, 1·72–73, 76–77history of, 1·32–51ideas and owners in, 1·70–72Ideas in Food blog and, 1·66, 67ingredients for. See Modernist
ingredientskitchen for. See Modernist kitchennovelty as cult in, 1·58–60Pralus and, 1·42principles of, 1·56as revolution, 1·5, 52–77Roca and, 1·58Santos and, 1·59science in the kitchen and, 1·42,
44–49seeds of, 1·32–51sous vide at home and, 1·73in Spain, history of, 1·57spread of, 1·38–40Steingarten and, 1·65timeline of recipes and techniques
in, 1·78–81trade secrets and, history of, 1·76utensils and plating styles in, 1·74–75vacuum packing and, 1·40–42wine pairing and, 4·352around the world, 1·70
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 90 3/22/11 10:56:40 AM
I N D E X X C I
MYOTOMES MModernist Cuisine
baker’s percentage in, 1·95–97credit for recipes in, 1·100–101guide to, 1·89–91ingredients and equipment in,
1·93–94photographs in, 1·88–89recipes in, 1·92–101
types of, 1·97–100weights and measures in, 1·94–95writing and producing, story of,
1·82–91Modernist Fried Chicken, 3·337Modernist ingredients, 1·250–259
as additives, perceptions of, 1·252–254
chemical processes for, 1·250–252chemical processing of common
foods in, 1·256as chemistry, health concerns about,
1·212informed decisions about, 1·258–259natural ingredients vs., 1·254–255new naturals for, 1·257Santamaria’s claims about, 1·258sources for, 5·XXXIII
Modernist kitchen, 2·280–473concentrates in, 2·378–397cryogenic freezing and carbonation
in, 2·456–473drying in, 2·428–455equipment for, sources of,
5·XXX–XXXIIextracting � avors in, 2·288–317� ltering in, 2·350–377infusing essences in, 2·318–331juicing in, 2·332–349particle size reduction in, 2·398–427tools for
classic, 2·287handy special-purpose, 2·285inexpensive but valuable, 2·286must-have, 2·284technology and, 2·283, 286
Modernist raviolo al’uovo, 4·190Modernist sausages, example recipes
for, 3·248–249modi� ed starches
best bets for thickening with, 4·30as foam stabilizers, 4·257natural source for, 1·257organic label for, 1·245
modi� ed-atmosphere packing, for sous vide, 2·212
moist air, example recipes for cooking with, 2·176–177, 180–181
moisture. See also humidity; hydrationin deep-frying, 2·115, 116–117,
118–119, 125in food
humectants and, 2·428microwave ovens and, 2·153
in shallow frying, 2·127–128water-vapor ovens and. See CVap
water-vapor ovens; water-vapor ovens
Mojitos, Carbonated Mojito Spheres, 4·188
molassesBlackstrap Molasses Country Ham,
3·183Molasses Bu� er, 2·331
moldon canned food, sterilization process
and, 2·80on ripening cured meat or seafood,
3·173molded spheri� cation, 4·184molds, silicone, for Modernist kitchen,
2·286Molecular and Physical Gastronomy
conference, Erice, Italy (1992), 1·44–46, 65
molecular gastronomycritics on mad scientists and, 1·62goals of, historical shi� s in, 1·47as Modernist cooking, 1·46–47origins of, 1·44� is on, 1·46
mollusks. See also clams; mussels; octopus; oysters; scallops; snails; squid
biology of, 3·24–26Maillard reaction of, 3·87
Monell Chemical Senses Center, 4·335Monet, Claude, 1·17, 18monk� sh
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·102
Monk� sh with Constructed Skin, 3·132
Monk� sh with Mediterranean Flavors plated-dish recipe, 5·151–155
in Seared Hamachi, 5·147, 149Sous Vide Monk� sh Pavé, 5·151, 155uniform musculature of, 3·53
monk� sh liver, Ankimo Torchon, 3·147monoglycerides, as surfactant
emulsi� ers, 4·216–217monosodium glutamate (MSG)
for brines and cures, 3·160safety of, 1·213
monounsaturated fat, 1·222Montagné, Prosper, 1·9Monterey Jack cheese, Cheese in a
Tube, 4·225moose, chronic wasting disease in,
1·159morels
Green Asparagus and Morels with Asparagus Jus, 2·341
Mushroom Puree, 5·215, 216Stu� ed Morels, 5·113, 117
Moroccan Batbout Flat Bread, 5·135, 139
Morrison, William, 1·60mortadella, parametric recipe for,
3·238–239mortar and pestle, 2·400Morton Tender Quick curing salt
for brining or curing, 3·158composition of, 3·161
Moschion, 1·13Motecuhzoma, 1·13motility, of bacteria, 1·130moto (restaurant), 1·67, 69, 72. See also
Cantu, Homaromotorized aspirators
for Modernist kitchen, 2·284vacuum � ltration with, 2·356for vacuum reduction, 2·380
motors, power output of, 1·274Moulard duck, foie gras production in,
3·138
Mound Builders, gastronomy of, 1·13mouthfeel
gel selection and, 4·73gelling with hydrocolloids and,
4·124importance of, 4·6, 10oils for deep-frying and, 2·126thickeners and, 4·12–13, 15, 17thickening and, 4·5
MOX (microoxygenation), in viticulture, 4·330–331
mozoku, 5·28mozzarella cheese
Mozzarella Balloons, 4·110–111Mozzarella Powder, 2·411
MSG (monosodium glutamate)for brines and cures, 3·160safety of, 1·213
mucilage, of co� ee beans, 4·358Mugaritz, 1·57. See also Aduriz, Andoni
LuisMughal Curry Sauce, 5·89, 90, 92mule duck, foie gras production in,
3·138Multiple Risk Factor Intervention Trial,
1·229multistep deep-frying, 2·122–123mung beans, pu� ed, parametric recipe
for, 4·302Munster cheese, Alsatian Munster
Sausage, 5·35, 39Murata, Yoshihiro
Hon Dashi recipe, 2·306Peanut “Tofu” and and, 4·122Sea Urchin Tofu, Tokyo Negi,
Sesame, Ponzu recipe, 5·197, 202muria, 5·121Muscat grapes
Compressed Muscat Grapes, 5·109, 110
in Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy Grapes, Fresh Wasabi, and Miso Powder, 5·197, 200
White Grape Syrup, 4·52muscle � bers, 3·6 muscles, 3·6–31
in cephalopods, 3·24–25contracting, 3·8–9converting to meat or seafood of,
3·32–43cooking meat and seafood and, 3·5fast-twitch. See fast-twitch musclesfat and, 3·15, 18–19meat color and, 3·12–15, 16–17in seafood, 3·20–31slow-twitch. See slow-twitch musclestenderness and, 3·10–11working of, 3·6–31
museums, freeze-drying by, 2·444mushroom jus
Mushroom Jus, 2·348parametric recipe for, 2·344–345
mushrooms. See also speci� c types of mushrooms
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·289, 290
dehydrating, parametric recipe for, 3·366
freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, 3·372
infusion of, parametric recipe for, 2·310
mushrooms (continued)Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino,
4·275Mushroom Broth, 5·11, 14Mushroom Ketchup, 5·11, 13Mushroom Marmalade, 5·215, 217Mushroom Omelet plated-dish
recipe, 5·215–217Mushroom Puree, 5·215, 216Mushroom Swiss Burger plated-dish
recipe, 5·11–15preserving, parametric recipe for,
3·348puree of
Mushroom Puree, 5·215, 216parametric recipe for, 2·425
Muslim Curry Sauce, 5·89–91, 93muslin sheets, for � ltering, 2·351mussel jus, parametric recipe for,
2·344–345mussels
biology of, 3·26, 27cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·103Mussels in Mussel Juice Spheres,
4·191Sous Vide Mussel, 5·151, 154Sous Vide Mussel Juice, 2·346Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot
Sabayon, 4·274mustard
Aromatic Alsatian Mustard, 5·35, 37Mustard Vinaigre� e, 4·231Preserved Pear in Mustard Oil,
5·281, 283mustard seeds, preserving, parametric
recipe for, 3·348Myhrvold, Nathan
on � rst God shot, 4·375Pacojets and, 2·407on writing Modernist Cuisine, 1·83
myocommata, 3·21myo� brils, 3·6, 8–9myoglobin
cooked food color and appearance and, 3·92–93
on cooked meat surfaces, 3·14gassing meat and, chemistry of, 3·95oxidation of meat and, 2·201, 3·12,
14oxygen levels and states of, 3·93in seal meat, 3·15searing meat and, 3·85in tuna, 3·21
myosepta, 3·21myosin
frictional heat and, 3·230Jaccard tenderizers and, 3·51as meat gel, 3·70, 222as meat glue, 3·250in muscle, 3·6
myotomes, 3·21, 23
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 91 3/22/11 10:56:41 AM
X C I I I N D E X
NACKA SYSTEMNNNacka system, Swedish hospitals and
vacuum packing using, 1·40nailbrushes
for handwashing, 1·196–197, 198for mushroom washing, 1·199
naked frying, 3·317, 321best bets for, 3·320chemistry of, 3·320coated frying vs., 3·316, 318–319
naked porta� lters, 4·385. See also crotchless porta� lters
nanoemulsions, 4·238–239example recipes for, 4·238–239science of, 4·205
nano� ltration, in viticulture, 4·330Nanophyetus salmincola, 1·124Napa cabbage
Braised Napa Cabbage, 5·109, 111Kimchi, 3·352
Napoléon Bonaparte, 2·75, 84Napoleon III, 2·84, 4·331–332NASA (National Aeronautics and Space
Administration), 1·40–42National Advisory Commi� ee on
Microbiological Criteria for Foods, 1·181
National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA), 1·40–42, 195, 3·372
National Gum and Mica Company, 4·40National Institutes of Health, 1·215National Pork Board, 1·179National Starch, 4·40National Toxicology Program, 1·220Native Americans, acorn cooking by,
1·6natural convection
from air, heat transfer coe� cient of, 1·283
de� nition of, 1·282natural foods, toxins in, 3·267Navel Orange Salad, 5·135, 138navy beans
Baked Beans, 5·67, 77Pressure-Cooked Tarbais Beans,
5·81, 83necrotizing enteritis, 1·141nectarines, cooking sous vide,
parametric recipe for, 3·288nematodes, 1·120–123
anisakid, 1·122–123Ascaris lumbricoides as, 1·123Trichinella as. See Trichinella spiralis;
trichinellosisnervous system, prion diseases and,
1·156–157Nespresso capsule system, 4·400ne� les, cooking sous vide, parametric
recipe for, 3·290neurologic symptoms, common
pathogens causing, 1·114New American cuisine, history of,
1·28–29� e New England Journal of Medicine,
1·213New Guinea, cannibalism and kuru in,
1·159New International cuisine, history of,
1·29–31
New York Cityhealth department of
on salt content of processed food, 1·237
sous vide rules of, 1·188, 195Modernist cuisine in, 1·69New International cuisine in, 1·30
� e New York Times Magazine, 1·188New Zealand, screw tops for wine
bo� les in, 4·344–345Newtonian � uids, 4·6Nigerian miracle berry, 2·465nigiri sushi, how to slice � sh for, 3·6019th-Century-Style Lobster with
Sherry and Cocoa, 3·107nisin, as food preservative, 1·144–145nitrates. See also saltpeter; sodium
nitratechemistry of, 3·160in cured meats, safety of, 1·143intolerance to, 1·239in sel rose, 3·162USDA on cured foods with, 3·165
nitrites. See also sodium nitritebene� ts of, 3·165chemistry of, 3·160for food preservation, 1·144–145USDA on cured foods with,
3·165–166Nitro Green Tea Sour, dramatic e� ects
of, 1·51Nitro Scrambled Egg and Bacon Ice
Cream, dramatic e� ects of, 1·51NitroCream LLC, 1·63nitrogen
Guinness beer cans pressurized with, 4·251
liquid. See liquid nitrogenphase diagram of, 1·303solubility in water of, 1·330, 333,
4·243wine preservation with, 4·346, 348
nitrogen dioxide, 3·95nitrosamines
chemistry of, 3·160conversion of nitrates into, 3·165–166in cured meats, safety of, 1·143
nitrous oxide (NO2)as foaming gas, 4·255, 256solubility in water of, 1·332
Noble, Ann, 4·339Nobu, New International cuisine and,
1·29Noguchi, Soichi, 2·445Noma, 1·70. See also Redzepi, Renénoncirculating water baths, for sous
vide cooking, 2·232, 234nonclimacteric fruits, ripening,
3·283–284nonin� ammatory diarrhea, 1·114noninvasive infections
bacteria causing, 1·133, 135–136, 138–141
de� nition of, 1·110nonionic compounds, 1·330nonmedical dietary systems, 1·240–249nonpolar, de� nition of, 4·199nonpolar solvents, 1·330noodles. See also pasta
freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, 2·451
gel, how to extrude, 4·138with peristaltic pump, 4·139
Norén, Nilson agar for clarifying liquids, 2·372Beet Juice-Fed Oysters recipe, 3·206Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil
recipe, 2·367on Fizz-Giz system, 3·207freeze � ltration and, 2·369French fries by, 3·322Parmesan “Polenta” recipe, 4·181Pectinase-Steeped Fries recipe,
3·324Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast recipe,
4·97pressure-cooked stock testing by,
2·87on unvented pressure-cookers for
stocks, 2·292normale, evolution of, 4·379noroviruses (Norwalk-like viruses)
food contamination by, 1·154foodborne illnesses due to,
1·153–154spreading, mathematics of, 1·153
North Carolina (Eastern Region) BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 70
North Carolina (Lexington-Style) BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 71
“� e Nose Smells What the Eye Sees,” 4·335
nostalgia. See memorynougatine, Dried Cherry and Hazelnut
Nougatine, 5·267, 270Le Nouveau Guide, 1·24, 26Nouvelle cuisine
Adrià’s study of, 1·34development of, 1·5, 24, 26–31Modernism and, 1·52, 56reductions and, 4·11
stocks vs., for extracting � avors, 2·288
Nouvelle Première trains, France, 1·41Novation Prima 600, thickening with,
4·30parametric recipe for, 4·30
novelty, cult of, 1·58–60NSEW technique, for grooming
espresso, 4·381, 383nucleate boiling, 1·316, 317
thin sauces and, 2·68nucleation sites
boiling and, 1·316in a Champagne � ute, 4·333etched on glass, for beer or
Champagne, 4·251phase changes and, 1·304
nucleus of the solitary tract, 4·341Nukazuke, 3·354Nurses’ Health Study, 1·214, 230–231,
241nut bu� er
milling, 2·418for set foams, parametric recipe for,
4·288–289nutmeg extract, parametric recipe for,
2·326nutmeg infusion, parametric recipe for,
2·310nutritional epidemiology, 1·218–220nuts. See also speci� c types of nuts
about, 5·244converting grams to volumes for,
5·XXXVIIfrozen, milling of, 3·374
nuts (continued)milling, 3·376seasonal mélanges with, 3·294typical
fat content of, 5·XLIIIwater content of, 5·XLI
volumetric equivalents for amounts of, 5·XLV
N-Zorbit (N-Zorbit M)for edible � lms, parametric recipe
for, 4·60Spinach Paper, 3·369thickening with, 4·5, 7, 13, 19, 30,
34–36parametric recipes for, 4·30, 60
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 92 3/22/11 10:56:41 AM
I N D E X X C I I I
OXTAIL OOoats
Candied Pu� ed Oats, 5·125, 128Sous Vide Clam and Oat Riso� o,
3·308Toasted Oat Jus, 5·126, 133
obesity, 1·23, 243weight loss diets and, 1·240–241
observation bias, nutritional studies and, 1·218
octopusbiology of, 3·24–25cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·108Smoked Octopus, 3·215Sous Vide Octopus, 5·193, 194
odds ratio, nutritional studies and, 1·219
odorsagreeable. See aromasbad
microbial taints and, 1·135from sealed bags, 2·214
o� ensive, when cooking cured meat or seafood, 3·165
of urine, asparagus and, 4·350Odyssey (Homer), 1·13, 3·220Oeufs en Meure� e plated-dish recipe,
5·219–221o� al. See innardsogo, 5·28
Marinated Ogo, 5·175, 177oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion
continuous phase and, 4·199creaming as failure of, 4·210nanoemulsions as, 4·238–239
oil-in-water-in-oil (O/W/O) emulsionBancro� ’s rule and, 4·203continuous phase and, 4·199
oils, 2·114–131. See also essential oils; frying; speci� c types of oils
chemical changes in, heat-induced, 2·123–125
co� ee brewing in, 4·371con� t cooking in. See con� tscryopoaching, 2·460emulsi� ers in, 2·123, 125extracting � avor with, 2·323� ash points of, 2·126� avored
Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil, 2·367
Curry Oil, 2·331Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 2·330Spiced Chili Oil, 2·330
for frying, chemistry of, 2·126hydrocolloid hydration and, 4·40hydrolysis of, 2·123melting points of, 2·126saturated vs. unsaturated, 2·126for sautéing, 2·44for shallow frying, 2·127–128smoke points of, 2·116, 125, 126smoking, parametric recipe for,
3·362stability of, 2·126thickening, 4·13typical, fat content of, 5·XLIIIvacuum frying and, 2·128
okraCrispy Okra, 5·90, 97preserving, parametric recipe for,
3·348Raw Okra, 5·97
oleic acid, 1·233, 234oleoresins, 2·320olive oil
Black Olive Oil, 5·193, 195chemistry of, 1·233, 2·126fa� y acids in, 1·234heart disease and, 1·232, 234Olive Oil Gummy Worms, 4·147Olive Oil “Margarine,” 4·235Olive Oil Noodles, 4·146Olive Oil Spread, 4·51smoking, parametric recipe for,
3·362� ickened Oil, 4·230Vanilla Olive Oil Powder, 4·35
olives. See also Black Olive entries; green olives
preserving, parametric recipe for, 3·348
omega-3 fats, 1·231–232Omelet Base, 5·215, 217omelets
in combi oven vs. conventional oven, 4·95
Ham and Cheese Omelet, 4·95Japanese (tamago), parametric
recipe for, 4·92Mushroom Omelet, 5·215–217Omelet Base, 5·215, 217parametric recipe for, 4·92
On Food and Cooking (McGee), 1·42, 43, 44, 49, 3·85
1D reduction, in bacteria for sanitizing food, 1·148, 149
160 Bloom gelatinfor airs, parametric recipe for, 4·264for cold gels, parametric recipe for,
4·140for edible � lms, parametric recipe
for, 4·60for � uid gels, parametric recipe for,
4·177for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe
for, 4·165for light foams, parametric recipe
for, 4·270for set foams, parametric recipe for,
4·288–289for thick foams, parametric recipe
for, 4·278–279thickening with, parametric recipe
for, 4·47onions
Autoclaved Onion Soup, 3·302compressing, parametric recipe for,
3·390cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·289, 290dehydrating, parametric recipe for,
3·366Freeze-Dried Onion Powder, 3·373,
5·261, 263freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,
3·372Glazed Pearl Onion, 5·261, 263impregnating, parametric recipe for,
3·390Onion Arle� e, 5·261, 262
onions (continued)Onion Fluid Gel, 4·183Onion Gratin, 5·261, 265Onion Rings, 3·342–343, 5·11Onion Sablé, 5·261, 263Onion Stock, 5·261, 264Onion Tart plated-dish recipe,
5·261–265puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425Root Vegetable Jus, 5·161, 163smoking, parametric recipe for,
3·362Sous Vide Glazed Pearl Onion,
5·219, 221Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 5·49, 53Sweet Onion Salsa, 5·175, 177Sweet-and-Sour Cipolline Onions,
5·17, 19Turbot with Onion and Marrow
Broth, 3·105onsen eggs, parametric recipe for
cooking, 4·78onsen tamago, 4·75, 78oocysts
Cryptosporidium parvum, 1·129de� nition of, 1·115Entamoeba histolytica, 1·129Giardia intestinalis, 1·129Toxoplasma gondii, hardiness of,
1·126, 129opacity
of emulsions, 4·203gel selection and, 4·73
“OpenCola,” 4·239optics
cooking meat and seafood and, 3·93–94
of emulsions, physics of, 4·203Orange Soda, 2·472oranges. See also blood oranges
as acidi� er, 2·314Candied Orange and Carrot Pulao,
5·94cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·291Hot Orange Gel, 4·167Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused
Milk, 3·103Mandarin Leather, 3·369Navel Orange Salad, 5·135, 138Orange Soda, 2·472Yuzu and Kumquat Marmalade,
3·356oregano, antimicrobial properties of
wine and, 1·145organ meats. See innardsorganic food
as dietary system, 1·245–247pesticides and, 1·252–253
Ornish, Dean, 1·242, 244O’Shea, Jack, 3·48Osmanthus vinegar, about, 5·172osmosis
brining and, 3·154drying with salt and sugar and, 3·346freezing and thawing liver and, 3·138juicing and, 2·335, 336reverse. See reverse osmosis
osmotic pressure, juicing and, 2·335Osso Bucco Milanese plated-dish
recipe, 5·60–65Osteria La Francescana, 1·70
ostrich, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·99
Ostwald ripeningas emulsion failure, 4·212in foams, 4·249ouzo/pastis e� ect and, 4·211
Oud Sluis, 1·70L’Oustau de Baumanière, 1·49outgassing, decanting wine and, 4·342,
343Outhier, Louis, 1·26ouzo e� ect, science of, 4·211oven � nishing, in sous vide cooking,
2·270oven mi� s
conduction in, 1·277, 280silicone, 1·280
ovens, 2·150–191braising using, 2·96combi. See combi ovensconvection. See convection ovensconventional, convection and
radiant heat in, 1·286evolution of uses for, 2·101foam forming with, 4·258humidity in, 2·102
heat control and, 2·153manufacturers of, “BTU” as used by,
1·272microwave. See microwave ovensmodern. See also combi ovens; CVap
water-vapor ovens; water-vapor ovensheat and humidity control testing
in, 2·156–157improvement proposals for, 2·167temperature control by, 2·112
for Modernist kitchen, 2·284moist air, 2·154–181pot-roasting using, 2·96temperature control in, 1·207thermostats for, 2·111vacuum, 2·433, 4·310water-vapor. See water-vapor ovenswood-� red, 2·26–27, 33
overcookingfood safety rules and, 1·170, 191reheating and, 2·264
O/W (oil-in-water) emulsioncontinuous phase and, 4·199creaming as failure of, 4·210nanoemulsions as, 4·238–239
O/W/O (oil-in-water-in-oil) emulsionBancro� ’s rule and, 4·203continuous phase and, 4·199
oxidationaging braises and pot roasts and,
2·98of fats
dry-aging meat and, 3·41freezer taste and, 1·306
� avor changes in frozen food and, 2·261
food preservation and, 2·252myoglobin pigment in meat and,
2·201vacuum packing and, 2·208
oxtailBoeuf in Gelée, 4·163cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·109Glazed Oxtail, 5·49, 50Oxtail Consommé, 2·376
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 93 3/22/11 10:56:41 AM
X C I V I N D E X
OXTAILOoxtail (continued)
Oxtail Pho Broth, 2·307Pot au Feu Consommé, 5·49, 52
oxygenmyoglobin color in meat and seafood
and, 3·92–93removal from un� nished wine
bo� les, 4·346solubility in water of, 1·330, 333,
4·243oxygenation
decanting wine and, 4·342–343wine aroma and, 4·350
oxymyoglobin, 3·93oyster mushrooms
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·289
Pigeon with Shell� sh Bu� er, 3·100oysters
Beef and Oyster Tartare, 3·66Beet Juice-Fed Oysters, 3·206, 5·233biology of, 3·26, 27Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa,
4·121cold-smoking, parametric recipe for,
3·210contamination of, 3·28cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·103fecal contamination of, 1·117noroviruses and, 1·153, 155Oyster Beignet, 5·25, 28Oyster Bu� er Emulsion, 5·233, 236Oyster Consommé, 5·205, 206Oyster Escabeche, 5·205, 206Oyster Stew plated-dish recipe,
5·205–207Oysters with Cava Foam, 4·277Oysters Guggenheim Bilbao, 1·57Oysters with Mignone� e Air, 4·265Poached Oysters, 5·233, 236seasonal ban on, politics of, 1·171Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy Grapes,
Fresh Wasabi, and Miso Powder, 5·197, 200
Ppackaging, plastic
for edge sealers, 2·222for impulse sealers, 2·225molding sausage with, 3·241selection of, 2·210–211sous vide cooking and, 2·207
Pacojet, 2·406–411breaking down food with, 2·398,
400, 406–411example recipes for, 2·410–411history of, 2·407meat ba� ers made in beaker of,
3·231, 233for Modernist kitchen, 2·284tartares and raw meat preparation
with, 3·62Pacojet Pea Soup, 2·410pacotizing, 2·406–411Pad � ai, 3·385Paella Rice, 5·239, 241Paella Stock, 5·239, 240Paella Valenciana plated-dish recipe,
5·239–245Pain d’Épices Powder, 5·17, 22pale so� exudate (PSE), adrenaline and,
3·34palm oil, chemistry of, 2·126palm olein oil, chemistry of, 2·126Palmer, Charlie, New International
cuisine and, 1·30palmitic acid, 1·233pan scrapings, 2·343pancreas, 5·32. See also sweetbreads
characteristics and cooking of, 3·140paneer, parametric recipe for, 4·104panfrying. See also griddles; shallow
fryingbasting and, physics of, 2·103characteristics of, 2·37a� er cooking sous vide, 2·275� ipping food in, 2·38–39griddles for, 2·40–41heat transfer by conduction in, 1·277a la plancha, 2·36–43pans and burner choices for, 2·41–43
pansfor combi ovens, 2·166dark-surfaced, radiant heat and, 2·38frying, seasoning of, 2·53for sautéing, 2·45for searing a la plancha, 2·41–43as vacuum containers, 2·226–227
papacy, early gastronomy of, 1·10papain, 3·195papayas
Green Papaya Pickle, 5·97preserving, parametric recipe for,
3·348paper pod systems, for espresso,
technology of, 4·400paper towels, disposable, kitchen
hygiene and, 1·200papers
dehydrating formula for, 3·367Seafood Paper, 3·188Spinach Paper, 3·369
Papin, Denis, pressurized boiler of, 2·76paprika infusion, parametric recipe for,
2·310
Paracelsus, 3·160Paradoxurus hermaphroditus, Kopi
Luwak co� ee and, 4·360paragonimiasis, 1·124parametric recipes
for acidi� ers, 2·314–315for ba� er-frying, 3·332–333for blended egg gels, 4·92for breading, 3·338–339for brines, cures, and dry rubs,
3·168–172for broth, 2·304–305for cellulose gum gels, 4·170–171for coarse-ground sausages,
3·236–237for cold gels, 4·140–141for compressed and impregnated
fruits and vegetables, 3·390–391for compressed fruits and vegetables,
3·390–391for consommé, 2·374–375for cooked whole eggs, 4·78–79for custards, 4·84for dehydrated fruits and vegetables,
3·366–367for edible � lms, 4·60for emulsion-style sausages,
3·238–239for extracting � avor with alcohol,
2·326for fermented sausage, 3·244–245for � sh and shell� sh sous vide,
3·102–103for � avor infusion into fats,
2·328–329for � avor-infused liquids, 2·310for � uid gels, 4·177–179for freeze-dried fruits and
vegetables, 3·372for freeze-drying, 2·450–452for froths, airs, and bubbles, 4·264for fruit and vegetable chips,
3·328–329for fruit purees, 2·424–425for fruits sous vide, 3·288, 290–291for hamburgers, 3·234–235for heat-treated fruit, 3·359for hot- and cold-smoked meats and
seafood, 3·210for hot fruit and vegetable gels,
4·164–165for hot gels, 4·160–161for impregnated fruits and
vegetables, 3·390–391for jus, 2·344–345for light foams, 4·270for microwaved vegetables, 3·311for milks and creams, 4·56for modern starch thickeners, 4·30in Modernist Cuisine, 1·97–98for o� al sous vide, 3·146for pasta, 3·380–381for potato purees, 3·296–297for preserved and pickled eggs, 4·82for protein curds, 4·104for pu� ed snacks, 4·302for riso� os, 3·304–305for salting, pickling, and fermenting,
3·348–349for separated egg gels, 4·85for set foams, 4·288–289for smoked eggs and dairy products,
4·100
parametric recipes (continued)for smoked plant foods, 3·362for spheri� cation, 4·186–187for stocks, 2·296–298for tender meats sous vide, 3·96for tender poultry sous vide, 3·99for thick foams, 4·278–279for thickened hot and cold liquids,
4·46–47for tough meats, poultry, and
shell� sh, 3·108–109for traditional starch thickeners,
4·28for transglutaminase gels, 4·116for vegetable purees, 2·424–425for vegetables sous vide, 3·288,
289–290, 292parasitic worms, 1·120–125
� esh contamination and, 1·117� ukes as, 1·120, 123–124foodborne illnesses in U.S. and,
1·111, 113as foodborne pathogens, 1·108roundworms as, 1·120–123tapeworms as, 1·124–125
parathas, about, 5·92Parker, Robert M., Jr.
aroma sensitivity of, 4·348on Ashenfelter’s Bordeaux Equation,
4·328biography of, 4·330wine ratings by, 4·338, 340on wine taste, 4·332
Parkerization, 4·330Parmesan cheese
Frozen White “Tru� e,” 3·400–401infusion of, parametric recipe for,
2·310Parmesan Crème Brûlée, 4·88Parmesan Nuggets, 4·35Parmesan “Polenta,” 4·181Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghe� o,
4·143Parmesan water, parametric recipe for,
2·374–375Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, Warm
Potato and Pistachio Pesto Salad, 4·53Parnell, � omas, 4·9parsley
Microwave-Fried Parsley, 3·312Microwave-Fried Parsley and Carrot
Tops, 5·49, 53Parsley Foam, 5·229, 231puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425
Parsley Foam, 5·229, 231parsnips
natural toxins of, 1·249puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425Root Vegetable Jus, 5·161, 163
particle size reduction, 2·398–427dry grinding and, 2·401–406equations on energy to reduce, 2·401equipment for, 2·398–427pacotizing and, 2·406–411strategies for reducing, 2·400–401wet-grinding and, 2·412–427
particlessize of
mouthfeel and, 4·10reducing. See particle size
reductionfor thickening, 4·7, 12, 19
partridge, as substitute for pigeon, 5·132
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 94 3/22/11 10:56:42 AM
I N D E X X C V
PID PPascal seconds, as viscosity measure, 4·6Paskach, � omas, 1·62–63Passard, Alain
L’Arpège egg of, 5·211Onion Gratin recipe, 5·261, 265Scallop Tartare recipe, 3·67Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune
Sabayon recipe, 3·363passion fruit
dehydrating, parametric recipe for, 3·366
Passion Fruit Brown Bu� er Fluid Gel, 5·181, 182
Passion Fruit Granita, 5·175, 177Passion Fruit Jelly, 4·180Passion Fruit Marshmallow with
Chorizo Powder, 4·290Passion Fruit-White Soy Sauce
Vinaigre� e, 5·181, 183pasta, 3·378–388
Chinese, Italians and, 1·14Cocoa Tajarin, 5·225, 227doughs, best bets for, 3·381example recipes for, 3·382–387,
5·253freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,
2·451ingredients and process for, 3·378Mac and Cheese, 3·387milled grains for, 3·376Pad � ai, 3·385parametric recipe for, 3·380–381Pasta Marinara, 3·386Ramen Noodles, 5·247, 250smoking of, 3·361
parametric recipe for, 3·362Sour Cream Spaetzle (Csipetke),
4·117, 5·55, 59Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghe� o,
4·143wheat, pu� ed, parametric recipe for,
4·302Pasta Marinara, 3·386Pasteur, Louis, 1·148, 2·75, 84–85, 250pasteurization
drying with warm air and, 2·432–433
of eggs, 1·191, 4·74FDA Food Code on, 1·185, 187,
188–189for heat-sanitizing food, 1·148–149holding at speci� c temperature for,
2·243of ice cream bases, 1·206refrigerated shelf-life for vacuum-
packed foods a� er, 2·257of sausage, 3·233simpli� ed cooking standards for,
1·190, 191, 192, 194for storage, terminology for,
2·249–250pasteurized eggs, parametric recipe for
cooking, 4·78pastis e� ect, science of, 4·211pastrami, Beef Cheek Pastrami, 3·213pastry chefs, innovations of, 1·73pâte, Guinness “Pâte de Fruit,” 4·145Pâte à Choux, 5·151, 152Patent and Trademark O� ce, 1·71patent law, food ingredients and
techniques and, 1·70, 71–72Pathogen Modeling Program (PMP),
1·147
pathogens. See also bacteria; foodborne illnesses; viruses
endemic, 1·110microorganisms as, 1·106–109
Pa� erson, Danielon essential oils, 2·322Grapefruit and Black Pepper recipe,
4·276Modernist cuisine and, 1·67poached scrambled eggs by, 4·93
pavéSkate Pavé with Bread Crust, 5·157,
159Sous Vide Duck Con� t Pavé, 5·81,
82Sous Vide Monk� sh Pavé, 5·151, 155
Pavoni, Desiderio, 4·372Pea Vine Salad, 5·273, 275peas. See black-eyed peas; chickpeas;
green peaspeaches
compressing, parametric recipe for, 3·390
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·288
impregnating, parametric recipe for, 3·390
Lemon Verbena and Peach Froth, 4·273
preserving, parametric recipe for, 3·348
peanut bu� erPeanut “Tofu,” 4·122Salmonella-contaminated, 1·180, 195
peanut oil, chemistry of, 2·126peanuts
allergies to, 1·238Crispy Boiled Peanuts, 3·303
pearscompressing, parametric recipe for,
3·390cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·288, 290dehydrating, parametric recipe for,
3·366heat-treating, parametric recipe for,
3·359impregnating, parametric recipe for,
3·390Preserved Pear in Mustard Oil,
5·281, 283preserving, parametric recipe for,
3·348pecans, smoking, parametric recipe for,
3·362pecorino cheese, Pecorino with Tru� e
Honey on Cedar, 4·101Pecorino Romano cheese, Poached
Apple with Pecorino Foam, 4·276pectin
drying plant foods with, 3·365as gelling agent, 4·68with heat, for thickening, 4·7hydrogen bonds in water and, 1·296natural sources for, 1·253, 257as vegetable glue, 3·392
pectin methylesterase (PME), 3·280pectinase
juicing fruits with, 2·335juicing plant foods with, 2·336Pectinase-Steeped Fries, 3·324
Pekin duck, roasting, 2·33
Peking Duckskin crisping by loosening from,
3·123traditional cooking of, 3·119, 122
pellicle, formed by smoking, 2·141, 3·211
Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga, Scallop Mochi, 5·197, 202
penetrating meat tenderizers, hazards with, 1·176
pepperoniFast-Cured Pepperoni, 3·247parametric recipe for, 3·244–245
peptides, in freshly slaughtered meat, 3·34
percolation, for co� ee brewing, 4·364perimysium, 3·6peristaltic pumps, extruding gel
noodles with, 4·139Perlage Champagne preservation
system, 4·347Perlini carbonation system, 4·347Persian cucumbers, Nukazuke, 3·354persimmons
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·288
dehydrating, parametric recipe for, 3·366
Hachiya variety, unripe phase of, 3·262
persistent diarrhea, 1·114personal hygiene
chef ’s accessories for, 1·202–203food safety and, 1·196–200
Peschardt, William Julius Syplie, 1·39pesticides, 1·245, 252–253Petrini, Carl, 1·23pH. See also acidi� ers; acidity of food;
acids or acidic compounds; picklingacidic marinades and, 3·192–193bacterial replication rates and, 1·143,
144boiling-water sterilizing of canned
foods and, 2·81Clostridium botulinum and, 1·139canning method and, 2·76in century eggs, 4·83chemistry of, 3·194color and texture of cooking plant
foods and, 3·274–275of espresso, hard water and, 4·384in fermented sausage, 3·246gel selection and, 4·73juice extraction and, 2·239lowering, for food preservation,
3·344Maillard reaction and, 3·91marinades and, 3·190measuring of, 2·316in muscle a� er slaughter, 3·32,
34–35pressure-canning and, 2·85sodium citrate as sequestrant and,
4·125thickeners and, 4·15, 16truite au bleu and, 3·40
phase changesin emulsions, 4·199, 203, 206thermal energy from, 1·290of water, energy of, 1·300–303
phase diagrams, of water, how to read, 1·302–303
phase inversion, 4·206
pheasant, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·99
Phelan, Robert, 4·246phenolic acids, olive oil and, 1·232, 234phenols, smoked food and, 2·134, 3·211pheophytin pigments, in green
vegetables, 2·267Philosophers at Dinner (Athenaeus), 1·12pho broth
Oxtail Pho Broth, 2·307parametric recipe for, 2·304–305
Phocanema decipens, 1·122–123phosphate brine, basic, parametric
recipe for, 3·168phosphates
for accelerating brining, 3·158for brining or curing, 3·157
phospholipids, as surfactant emulsi� ers, 4·216–217
photographscredit for, 1·101of cutaways, 1·88–89. See also
cutaway illustrationsequipment for, 1·89Myhrvold on use of, 1·84–85
Phylloxera, 4·327Physiologie du Goût (Brillat-Savarin,
1825), 1·9Pic, Jacques, 1·34pickle chips, parametric recipe for,
3·328pickled eggs, parametric recipe for, 4·82pickles
Compressed Dill Pickled Vegetables, 5·55, 58
fermented, parametric recipe for, 3·349
Fried Pickles, 5·67, 75Green Papaya Pickle, 5·97parametric recipe for, 3·349Pickled Bing Cherry, 5·267, 268Pickled Bu� ernut Squash, 5·60, 64Pickled Celery Root, 5·126, 133Pickled Figs, 5·135, 137Pickled Garlic, 5·25, 26Pickled Jerusalem Artichokes, 5·125,
131Pickled Lemon, 5·273, 275Pickled Quail Eggs, 4·83Pickled Ramps, 5·113, 118Pickled Tapioca Pearl, 5·205, 207salt, parametric recipe for, 3·349sour vinegar, parametric recipe for,
3·349Sous Vide Cucumber Pickles, 3·353sweet vinegar, parametric recipe for,
3·349pickling
boiling-water canning for, 2·82–83of eggs, best bets for, 4·82example recipes for, 3·353, 5·25, 135formulas for, 3·349parametric recipe for, 3·348–349of plant foods, 3·344, 346, 348
PID (proportional-integral-derivative) controllers
characteristics of, 1·270God shots and, 4·375invention of, 4·398for kitchen appliances, 1·271programmable, 2·238for smoking, 3·208
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 95 3/22/11 10:56:42 AM
X C V I I N D E X
PIDPPID (proportional-integral-derivative)
controllers (continued)for sous vide cooking, 2·233, 240types and characteristics of,
2·230–231Piège, Jean-François
Spaghe� i Carbonara recipe, 3·384Steamed Blancmange recipe, 4·296
pig, sucklingcooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·96, 109Suckling Pig Shoulder with Shallot
and Orange Sauce, 3·110pig-bel, C. per� ingens-contaminated
food and, 1·141pigeon
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·99, 108
Farce Royale, 5·126, 132Pigeon en Salmis plated-dish recipe,
5·125–133Pigeon with Shell� sh Bu� er, 3·100Roast Pigeon Crown, 5·126, 132Toasted Oat Jus, 5·126, 133
pigeon o� al, Sous Vide Pigeon O� al, 5·125, 130
pigeon stock, parametric recipe for, 2·296–298
pig’s blood, Hot Blood Pudding Custard, 4·221
pilaf, Candied Orange and Carrot Pulao, 5·94
pin bones, in � sh, 3·22pin-and-disc mills, 2·404pine bud infusion, parametric recipe for,
2·310pine nuts
Braised Pine Nuts with Winter Squash, 5·60, 65
Frozen Crème-Frâiche and Pine-Nut Cream, 2·411
Romesco Sauce, 2·419Shaved Foie Gras, 3·177smoking, parametric recipe for, 3·362
pineapplecompressing, parametric recipe for,
3·390cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·288dehydrating, parametric recipe for,
3·366impregnating, parametric recipe for,
3·390Pineapple Glass, 3·370preserving, parametric recipe for,
3·348smoking, parametric recipe for, 3·362
pineapple chips, parametric recipe for, 3·328
pinecones, green, Adrià’s use of immature pine nuts from, 1·36
pink brine, basic, parametric recipe for, 3·168
Pink Grapefruit Con� t, 5·225, 226pink salt rub, parametric recipe for,
3·169pink salts, nitrates or nitrites in, 3·165Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and, 4·327piquillo peppers, 5·279
freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, 3·372
Piquillo Pepper and Strawberry Salad, 5·277, 278
Pistachio Consommé, 2·376pistachio cream for gelato, 4·214Pistachio Gelato, 4·236pistachio oil, Pistachio Gelato, 4·236Pistachio Puree, 2·427pistachios
Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake, 4·294
Pistachio Consommé, 2·376Pistachio Gelato, 4·236Pistachio Puree, 2·427Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesto
Salad, 4·53pit, barbecue, origins of, 3·208pit boss, use of term, 3·208pita bread, water as foaming gas for,
4·254pitch, extreme viscosity of, 4·9pitchers, spouted, for pouring la� es,
4·391–392plancha. See also griddles; panfrying
for Modernist kitchen, 2·287searing using, 2·40–41
of frozen meat, 3·122for sous vide cooking, 2·271
plant foods, 3·258–401cooking
bene� ts of, 3·267color changes in, chemistry of,
3·274–275frying and, 3·314–343methods for, 3·273microwaving and, 3·310–313pressure-cooking and, 3·298–309sous vide, 3·286–297
culinary deception with, 3·388–401dehydrating, 3·365–373enzymes in, 3·282–284fat content of, 5·XLIIIFDA Food Code time and
temperature for, 1·184freeze-drying, critical temperature
for, 2·446fruits as. See fruits; speci� c � uitsLe Gargouillou with, 1·20, 3·294–295heat-shocking, 3·358–359internationalization of, history of,
3·268juices from
browning of, 2·338� ltering, 2·354
juicing with pectinase enzymes, 2·336
milling, 3·376–377nuts as. See nutspreserving, 3·344–373properties of, 3·262–285raw
digesting, biology of, 3·269FDA rules and, 1·182
seeds as. See seedssmoked, 2·141
best bets for, 3·362smoking, 3·361–363so� ening by holding at speci� c
temperature, 2·247–248starches in, 3·280–283textures of, modifying, 3·374–401types of, 3·264vacuum compression and, 2·213vegetables as. See vegetables; speci� c
vegetableswater content of, 3·273
plants, 3·266. See also speci� c plantscomposition of, physics of, 3·266defenses of, defeating, 3·267, 273as food. See plant foods; speci� c plant
foodsgelling agents from, 4·126hydrocolloids from, as thickeners,
4·19seeds of. See seeds
self-defense by, toxicity of, 3·266 plasma, as charged gas, 1·301
plasmids, 1·109, 133Plasmodium, 1·126plasmolysis, cell dehydration and, 1·305Plassman, Hilke, 4·340plastic packaging
for edge sealers, 2·222for impulse sealers, 2·225molding sausage with, 3·241selection of, 2·210–211sous vide cooking and, 2·207
plastic wrapmolding sausage with, 3·241vacuum packing and, 2·212
plate freezers, uses for, 1·307Plateau, Joseph, 4·246plated dishes
Blumenthal on, 1·51elements of recipes for, 1·99invention of, 1·25Nouvelle cuisine and, 1·26recipes in Modernist Cuisine for,
1·97–100styles of, 1·98
styles of recipes for, 1·100plated-dish recipes for eggs, 5·209–221
� e Breakfast Egg, 5·211–213Mushroom Omelet, 5·215–217Oeufs en Meure� e, 5·219–221
plated-dish recipes for � sh, 5·141–177Black Cod “Frédy Girardet,”
5·170–173Fish and Chips, 5·143–145Hamachi Maltaise, 5·147–149Hawaiian Poke, 5·175–177Malaysian Steamed Snapper,
5·167–169Monk� sh with Mediterranean
Flavors, 5·151–155Salmon Rus, 5·161–165Skate in Black Bu� er, 5·157–159
plated-dish recipes for fruits and vegetables, 5·259–287
Crispy Cauli� ower, 5·281–283Lentil Salad, 5·267–271Onion Tart, 5·261–265Strawberry Gazpacho, 5·277–279Sweet Pea Fricassee, 5·272–275Watermelon Bulgogi, 5·285–287
plated-dish recipes for poultry, 5·107–139
Crispy Hay-Smoked Chicken, 5·113–119
Duck Apicius, 5·121–123Foie Gras à la Vapeur, 5·109–111Guinea Hen Tagine, 5·135–139Pigeon en Salmis, 5·125–133
plated-dish recipes for shell� sh, 5·179–207
Lobster Américaine, 5·184–187Oyster Stew, 5·205–207Pulpo a la Greca, 5·193–195Shell� sh Omakase, 5·197–203
plated-dish recipes for shell� sh (continued)
Shrimp Cocktail, 5·180–183� ai Crab Miang, 5·189–191
plated-dish recipes for starches, 5·223–256
Astronaut Ramen, 5·247–251Cocoa Tajarin, 5·225–227Paella Valenciana, 5·239–245Russian Pelmeni, 5·233–237Shanghai Soup Dumplings,
5·253–256Spaghe� i alle Vongole, 5·229–231
plated-dish recipes for tender cuts, 5·3–39
Autumn Harvest Pork Roast, 5·17–23Beef Rib Steak, 5·5–9Blanque� e de Veau, 5·31–33Choucroute Royale, 5·35–39Mushroom Swiss Burger, 5·11–15Rack of Lamb with Garlic, 5·25–29
plated-dish recipes for tough cuts, 5·41–105
American BBQ , 5·66–79Braised Short Ribs, 5·42–47Cassoulet Toulousain (Autumn),
5·81–84Cassoulet Toulousain (Spring),
5·85–87Historic Lamb Curries, 5·89–99Hungarian Beef Goulash, 5·55–59Osso Bucco Milanese, 5·60–65Pot-au-Feu, 5·49–53Sunday Pork Belly, 5·101–105
platinum RTD (resistance temperature diode), 1·207
Pliny the Elder, 2·396plums
compressing, parametric recipe for, 3·390
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·288
impregnating, parametric recipe for, 3·390
in Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga, Scallop Mochi, 5·197, 202
pluotsabout, 5·202Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga,
Scallop Mochi, 5·197, 202PME (pectin methylesterase), 3·280PMP (Pathogen Modeling Program),
1·147poach test
of sausage binding power, 3·223technique of, 3·225
Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam, 4·276
“Poached” Egg, 4·195Poached Lamb Loin, 5·85, 87Poached Lobster, 4·219Poached Lobster Tail, 5·185, 187Poached Oysters, 5·233, 236poaching
cryopoaching asCryopoached Dill Meringue, 5·161,
165Cryopoached Green Tea Sour,
4·291for Dippin’ Dots, 1·61technique for, 2·460
of eggs, stirring pot before, physics of, 2·67
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 96 3/22/11 10:56:42 AM
I N D E X X C V I I
PPOUR-OVER COFFEE BREWER
poaching (continued)Girardet method for broiling and,
2·24–25, 96, 97pod systems, for espresso, technology
of, 4·400Poggioli, Renato, 1·18Point, Fernand
on glazing vegetables, 2·58Nouvelle cuisine and, 1·24Poulet au Feu d’Enfer recipe, 3·100
polar solvents, 1·330polarity, of water molecules, 2·182,
4·199Polcyn, Brian, Blackstrap Molasses
Country Ham recipe, 3·183polenta
Almond Polenta, 4·36Parmesan “Polenta,” 4·181Pressure-Cooked Polenta with
Strawberry Marinara, 4·50political interest groups, food safety
rules and, 1·170“� e (Political) Science of Salt”
(Taubes), 1·236Pollan, Michael
on eating our great-grandmothers’ food, 1·15
on Slow Food, 1·23Polo, Marco, pasta and, 1·14Polyclar � ning, 2·352, 360polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons,
smoked food and, 2·143polyethylene, for rescuing corked wine,
4·349polyglycerol esters, as surfactant
emulsi� ers, 4·216–217polymer molecules, for gelling or
thickening, 4·71Polyp Prevention Trial, 1·215, 217, 233polyphenol oxidase (PPO)
blanching and, 2·267fruit blemishes and, 3·282–283plant juice browning and, 2·338
polyphosphates. See sodium tripolyphosphate
polysaccharideshydrocolloids as, 4·124starches as, 4·20
polysorbates, as surfactant emulsi� ers, 4·216–217
polyunsaturated fat, 1·222polyvinyl chloride (PVC) plastics, food
safety and, 2·207, 3·241polyvinylpolypyrrolidone (PVPP), as
� ning agent, 2·360pomegranate
juicing seeds of, 5·122Pomegranate and Garum Jus, 5·121,
122pomelo, Frozen Pomelo Cells, 5·189,
191Pommes Pont-Neuf, 3·323pommes sou� ées
Pommes Sou� ées, 4·306, 5·143, 145
water as foaming gas for, 4·254ponzu, Sous Vide Ponzu, 2·313popcorn
Crispy Corn Pudding, 5·101, 104microwave, 2·183Popcorn Pudding, 4·181
Popeil, Ron, 2·34
porcini mushroomscooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·289Mushroom Puree, 5·215, 216Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard
Marmalade and Porcini, 3·97pork. See also bacon; ham; hogs;
prosciu� o; suckling pigaging, 3·41Alsatian Munster Sausage, 5·35, 39brining, parametric recipe for, 3·172Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 3·248cold-smoking, parametric recipe for,
3·210cooked, pink color in, 3·94cooking
cooking times for, 1·121, 179, 180sous vide, parametric recipe for,
3·96, 109Crab and Pork Stock Spheres, 5·253,
256cultural recommendations on
cooking, 1·165, 170–171curing, parametric recipe for, 3·172Fast-Cured Pepperoni, 3·247fast-twitch vs. slow-twitch muscle
in, 3·12, 13FDA safe cooking standards for,
1·170food safety misconceptions about,
1·179–180free-range, safety debate on, 1·179Freeze-Dried Pork, 5·247, 251freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,
2·451Green Garlic and Pork Sausage,
5·85, 86hot-smoking, parametric recipe for,
3·210House-Cured Bacon, 3·182, 5·17, 18Italian Sausage, 3·242Pork Loin Roast, 5·17, 23Pork Ribs, 5·67, 78Pork Tenderloin with Juniper, 5·35,
36Pressure-Cooked Carnitas, 3·114primal cuts of, 3·44Pulled Pork Shoulder, 5·67, 78rea� aching skin as breading a� er
cooking, 3·122–123red meat in, 3·14, 15roast, how to pu� skin on,
3·126–127safe cooking temperature for,
1·121–122Saucisson Sec, 3·247as sausage binder, 3·222for sausage-making, cuts for, 3·222shoulder, dissecting, 3·48–49skin contraction during cooking of,
3·118Smoked Pork Cheek, 5·35, 38Sous Vide Pork Belly, 5·101, 102tapeworms and, 1·124tenderizing enzymes in, 3·78Toulousain Garlic Sausage, 5·81, 82Trichinella and, 1·117–118, 120Triple Dungeness Crab and Pork
Stock Infusion, 5·253, 254pork and Banyuls roasting jus,
parametric recipe for, 2·344–345pork belly, sous vide tenderizing of,
3·83
pork fatbackCoarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 3·248Fast-Cured Pepperoni, 3·247Italian Sausage, 3·242Saucisson Sec, 3·247
pork lard, chemistry of, 2·126pork rinds, pu� ed, making of, 3·129pork stock, parametric recipe for,
2·296–297Pork Tro� er Beignet, 5·35, 38porta� lters, espresso
crotchlessadvantages of, 4·385, 388invention of, 4·398
dosing, 4·378, 380grooming. See grooming espresso
porta� lterstamping, 4·380, 383–384
how to, 4·382porta� lters, nanoscale, 2·357portions. See also food size
single, Pacojets for, 2·407, 410vacuum-sealed individual, 2·199, 201
Portuguese Cork Association, 4·348posset, parametric recipe for, 4·104Le Postay, 1·70Postmodern cuisine, Modernist cuisine
vs., 1·57potassium
hypertension and, 1·236as ion-based coagulant, 4·126
potassium nitratefor dry-curing, 3·165for food preservation, 1·144–145in sel rose (curing salt), 3·162
potato chipshomemade, 3·329–330parametric recipe for, 3·328Pringles, history of, 3·330
potato starch, thickening with, parametric recipe for, 4·28
potatoesArtichoke and Potato Chaat, 3·313Baked Potato Broth, 2·309Baked Potato Foam, 4·281, 5·193boiled, sugar and, 3·276Clay Potatoes, 3·398cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·290, 292Duck Leg Con� t with Pommes
Sarladaises, 3·178� our milled from, 3·376� oury vs. waxy, gelatinization of,
3·280frying, 3·322–325mashed
of Robuchon, 1·37, 58of Steingarten, 1·65
natural toxins of, 1·249Pectinase-Steeped Fries, 3·324Pommes Pont-Neuf, 3·323Pommes Sou� ées, 4·306, 5·143, 145Potato Beignets with Caviar, 4·174Potato Puree, 3·296, 5·5, 8Potato Salad, 5·67, 73pu� ed, parametric recipe for, 4·302purees of
best bets for, 3·297parametric recipe for, 2·425,
3·296–297Potato Puree, 3·296, 5·5, 8
Restructured Potato Chips, 3·330Root Vegetable Riso� o, 3·309
potatoes (continued)Smoked Potato Con� t, 5·193, 195Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune
Sabayon, 3·363smoking, parametric recipe for,
3·362starch granules of, 4·20Starch-Infused Fries, 3·324Starch-Infused Ultrasonic Fries,
3·325thickening with, 4·28toxins in, 3·262Ultrasonic Fries, 3·325, 5·11volumetric equivalents for amounts
of, 5·XLVWarm Potato and Pistachio Pesto
Salad, 4·53pot-au-feu
parametric recipe for, 2·304–305Pot au Feu Consommé, 5·49, 52Pot-au-Feu plated-dish recipe,
5·49–53pot-roasting, 2·93–96
braising or stewing vs., 2·93chemistry of aging and, 2·98cutaway illustration of, 2·94–95of meat, how to, 2·99traditional method for, 2·93, 96
pots, on stoveheat loss and, 1·276immersion circulators for, 2·234for sous vide cooking, 2·233, 240
Poulet au Feu d’Enfer, 3·100poultry. See also speci� c types of poultry
cookingideal temperature for, 3·89simpli� ed standards for, 1·190,
193diet and � esh color of, 3·93FDA Food Code on Salmonella in,
1·175FDA Food Code time and
temperature for, 1·187–188FSIS on Salmonella reduction in,
1·168plated-dish recipes for, 5·107–139red
cooking sous vide, best bets for, 3·99
tender, parametric recipe for cooking sous vide, 3·99
safe cooking principles for, 1·191tanning properties of smoke and,
2·141tender red, parametric recipe for
cooking sous vide, 3·99tender white, parametric recipe for
cooking sous vide, 3·99tenderizing enzymes in, 3·78tough, cooking sous vide
best bets for, 3·108parametric recipe for, 3·108
whitecooking sous vide, best bets for,
3·99tender, parametric recipe for
cooking sous vide, 3·99poultry liver, cooking sous vide,
parametric recipe for, 3·146pounding meat, 3·50pour-over co� ee brewer, 4·369
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 97 3/22/11 10:56:43 AM
X C V I I I I N D E X
POWDERSPpowders
cryogenic freezing of, 2·461cryopowdering and, how to, 2·461espresso, instant, 4·371pacotizing, 2·406–409spray-dried, 2·438–441
powerconverting energy units and, 1·273units of, 1·272–273
PPO (polyphenol oxidase)blanching and, 2·267fruit blemishes and, 3·282–283plant juice browning and, 2·338
Prague Powdersnitrates or nitrites in, 3·165No. 1
for brining or curing, 3·158composition of, 3·161
No. 2, composition of, 3·161Pralus, Georges, 1·41, 42Prats, Bruno, 4·328prawn crackers, water as foaming gas
for, 4·254prawns. See also langoustines
biology of, 3·28, 31cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·103Pigeon with Shell� sh Bu� er, 3·100Pu� ed Crab Crackers, 5·189, 190in Seafood Paper, 3·188Shrimp and Grits, 3·377Shrimp Cocktail, 3·107Sous Vide Prawn Jus, 2·347Spot Prawn and Lotus Root
Tempura with Smoked White Soy Sauce, 5·197, 201
Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage, 4·233
Steamed Live Spot Prawn, 5·181, 183precipitates, supersaturated solutions
and, 1·332precooking, sous vide, for deep-frying,
2·123precursor molecules, in � avor reactions,
enzymes and, 2·335, 338predator satiation (saturation), 3·284pregelatinized starch cracker, pu� ed,
parametric recipe for, 4·302pregelatinized starch paste
Pregelatinized Starch Paste, 4·29for thick foams, parametric recipe
for, 4·278–279pregnancy, foodborne illnesses and,
1·127, 134preheating
for baking, 2·102–103for deep-frying, 2·116
preinfusion, in pulling an espresso shot, 4·384
prepared foods, wide availability of, 1·22–23
presentation, cognitive science of, 4·335preservatives. See also additives; food
preservationchemical, bacterial growth and,
1·144–145fresh juice taste and color and, 2·238,
239popular perception of, 1·250
Preserved Cinnamon Cap Mushroom, 5·219, 220
preserved eggs, parametric recipe for, 4·82
Preserved Lemons, 3·350, 5·135Preserved Pear in Mustard Oil, 5·281,
283preserves, seasonal mélanges with,
3·295preserving food. See food preservationpressing, example recipes for, 3·377pressure. See also pressure canners;
pressure cookers; pressure � ltration; pressure-canning; pressure-cooking plant foods
atmospheric. See atmospheric pressure
espresso-making and, 4·372, 374� neness of grind vs., in espresso
machines, 4·378gauges and, atmospheric pressure
and readings of, 2·86–87homogenizers and. See
homogenizers, high-pressure; homogenizers, ultrahigh-pressure
pressure fryers and, for Kentucky Fried Chicken, 2·120–121
pressure steamers and, heat transfer in, 1·319
pressure-marinating and, 3·198how to, 3·207
pressure-shi� freezing and, physics of, 1·309
pro� ling, for espresso, 4·375technology of, 4·400
solubility of gases in water and, 1·333, 4·256
speci� c heat and, 1·266–267ultrahigh, to kill bacteria, 1·149vacuum, 2·391, 447vacuum packing and, 2·213, 215water, in espresso-making, 4·384
pressure canners. See also pressure cookers
cutaway illustration of, 2·90–91for extracting and infusing � avors,
2·251how to use, 2·89pressure cookers vs., 2·85–86for sous vide cooking, 2·233sterilization using, 2·250venting, 2·86–87, 291–292
pressure cookersbrowning starch for roux with, 4·22collagen conversion into gelatin in,
3·79excess heat in, 2·291for Modernist kitchen, 2·286pressure canners vs., 2·85–86, 89for sous vide cooking, 2·233sterilization using, 2·250stock preparation with, 2·283,
291–294for tomato sauces, 3·276for tough cut cooking, 3·95venting
before sealing, 2·291–292 spring-loaded valves for, 2·86–87
pressure � ltrationcharacteristics of, 2·352, 353–355,
358clarifying juice with, 2·355equipment for, 2·286
pressure fryers, for Kentucky Fried Chicken, 2·120–121
pressure gauges, atmospheric pressure and readings of, 2·86–87
pressure steamers, heat transfer in, 1·319
pressure-canning, 2·85–91acidity of food and, 2·76Chevalier-Appert on, 2·75cutaway illustration of, 2·90–91� ne tuning, 2·88how air confounds, physics of, 2·87for low-acidity foods, 2·85pressure amount and duration for,
2·88reading gauge displays for, 2·86–87time to sterilization pressure using,
2·89Pressure-Cooked Carnitas, 3·114Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast, 4·97Pressure-Cooked Polenta with
Strawberry Marinara, 4·50Pressure-Cooked Sesame Seeds, 3·303,
5·181Pressure-Cooked Tarbais Beans, 5·81,
83Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Riso� o,
3·308Pressure-Cooked White Chicken Stock,
2·301pressure-cooking plant foods,
3·298–309best bets for, 3·300
pressure-marinating, 3·198how to, 3·207
pressure-shi� freezing, physics of, 1·309
pretenderized meat, hazards with, 1·176Prial, Frank, 4·331Priestley, Joseph, 2·464primal cuts, of meat, 3·44primary emulsion, 4·206Primitivo grape, Zinfandel and, 4·326Pringles, history of, 3·330“printed food,” 1·67, 69, 71prions
diseases caused by, 1·156, 157–159, 160brain and, 1·156–157conformations of, 1·158politics and, 1·160–161in United States, 1·111
as foodborne pathogens, 1·109names for, 1·112
processed foodscheese as, history of, 4·222preservatives in, 1·144
professional chefs. See chefs, professional; individual chefs’ names
programmabilityin combi ovens, 2·168–169, 172–173of heating/chilling baths, 2·255of PID controllers, 2·230, 238
progressive smoking, 2·148propane, for gas grills, 2·11proportional-integral-derivative
controllers. See PID (proportional-integral-derivative) controllers
propylene glycol alginatefor edible � lms, parametric recipe
for, 4·60as foam stabilizer, 4·257interactions with other thickeners,
4·44–45product guide for, 4·IV–Vproperties and uses of, 4·42–43
propylene glycol esters, as surfactant emulsi� ers, 4·216–217
propylene glycol, thickening with, parametric recipe for, 4·46, 47
prosciu� oChawanmushi, 4·96Ham Broth, 2·306infusion of, parametric recipe for,
2·310Prosciu� o and Melon “Raw Egg,”
4·194slicing, 3·50
prospective randomized, controlled clinical trials. See randomized clinical trials
prospective studiesde� nition of, 1·214of nutrition, 1·220
protein coagulants, 4·103protein extracts, as sausage binders,
3·223proteins. See also dairy products; fa� y
acids; meats; speci� c foodsconformation of, 1·156curds of
best bets for, 4·104Cocoa Nib Curd, 4·105Fresh Cheese Curds, 4·106–107parametric recipe for, 4·104
dehydrating foods and, 1·296in � sh, 3·20as foaming agent, 4·244, 247folding of, 1·156frozen, aromatic compounds and,
2·261in gelatin, 4·67gelling agents from, 4·69with heat, for thickening, 4·7marinating and, 3·190in meat, 3·6nonmeat, fat incorporation into
sausage with, 3·225proteolytic enzymes, 3·195protists, 1·126–129
foodborne illnesses in U.S. and, 1·111
as foodborne pathogens, 1·108Prudhomme, Paul, New American
cuisine and, 1·28, 29prune coals
carbon dioxide in sugar glass for, 4·254
edible, how to make, 4·314–315Prune Coals recipe, 5·17
Prusiner, Stanley, 1·156PSE (pale so� exudate), adrenaline and,
3·34Pseudoterranova decipiens, 1·122–123psychrometric charts, how to read,
1·323PTW (Australian architectural � rm),
4·246public health, food safety rules and,
1·169–170publication bias, nutritional studies
and, 1·219Puck, Wolfgang
food and restaurant empire of, 1·31New American cuisine and, 1·28, 29New International cuisine and, 1·30
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 98 3/22/11 10:56:43 AM
I N D E X X C I X
RARE BEEF SAUSAGE Rpudding. See also blood sausage
(pudding)Boudin Noir Bread Pudding, 5·125,
127Crispy Corn Pudding, 5·101, 104Jerusalem Artichoke Pudding, 4·31Popcorn Pudding, 4·181
Pu� ed Chicken Feet, 3·133Pu� ed Chickpea Salad, 5·135, 138Pu� ed Chickpeas, 4·307Pu� ed Cockscomb, 3·133Pu� ed Crab Crackers, 5·189, 190pu� ed skin
pork rinds and, making of, 3·129on pork roast, how to make,
3·126–127vicinal water and, 3·122, 123
pu� ed snacks, 4·302–309best bets for, 4·302Cheese Pu� s, 4·305example recipes for, 4·303–309,
5·197, 202parametric recipe for, 4·302Pu� ed Chickpeas, 4·307
pulao, Candied Orange and Carrot Pulao, 5·94
Pulled Mushroom, 3·396Pulled Pork Shoulder, 5·67, 78pulp, plant juice browning and, 2·338pulped natural process, for co� ee, 4·358Pulpo a la Greca plated-dish recipe,
5·193–195pulses, � ours milled from, 3·376pulverizing. See also grinding; milling
mathematics of power to pulverize and, 2·401
Pumpjack Winery, 4·345 pumps
aquariumfoam forming with, 4·258, 260for sous vide cooking, 2·240–241
vacuum. See vacuum pumpsPure-Cote B790
for edible � lms, parametric recipe for, 4·60
thickening with, 4·30parametric recipe for, 4·30
pureeingcolloid mills for, 2·398–399of colloidal suspensions from, 4·12meat, steps in, 3·231Pacojet for, 2·406–411strategies for, 2·400
purees. See also pureeingApricot and Jasmine Puree, 5·171,
173Avocado Puree, 5·205, 207Black Olive Puree, 4·230Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil Puree,
2·426Con� t Egg-Yolk Puree, 5·147, 148cooking fruits or vegetables sous
vide for, 3·290cryofreezing and, 2·458Date Puree, 5·121, 122frozen, freeze-drying of, 2·446fruit
best bets for, 2·425cooking sous vide, 3·290 parametric recipe for, 2·425
ground fruits or vegetables as, 3·376Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and
Tru� e Puree, 4·114
purees (continued)Mushroom Puree, 5·215, 216Pistachio Puree, 2·427potato, best bets for, 3·297Potato Puree, 3·296, 5·5, 8Salted Caramel Apple Puree, 5·17, 20seasonal mélanges with, 3·295Smoked Pepper Puree, 5·55, 57Tamarind Puree, 5·281, 282vegetable
best bets for, 2·425mechanics of, 3·279parametric recipe for, 2·424–425,
435sous vide cooking for, best bets for,
3·290puri� cation, of toxins from the body,
1·248PVC (polyvinyl chloride) plastics, food
safety and, 2·207, 3·241PVPP (polyvinylpolypyrrolidone), as
� ning agent, 2·360pyrolysis
co� ee roasting and, 4·362food safety and bi� er taste from,
3·91overcooking and, 3·94of wood, 2·135, 137
Qquail
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·99, 108
Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion and Water Chestnuts, 3·101
quail eggsChorizo French Toast, 4·98–99Pickled Quail Eggs, 4·83
Quatre Épices, 2·403, 5·35, 125quiche � lling, parametric recipe for,
4·92quinces
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·291
Hot Quince Gel, 4·167, 5·121raw vs. cooked, 3·275
quinoaQuinoa and Idiazábal with Bonito
Stock Veil, 4·168Ragout of Grains, 5·125, 129
quorum sensing, by bacteria, 1·134
Rrabbit
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·96, 109
leg muscles of, 3·7Sous Vide Rabbit Loin, 5·239, 242wild, risks of eating, 1·138
Rack of Lamb, 5·25, 29Rack of Lamb with Garlic plated-dish
recipe, 5·25–29radiation (radiant heat)
adding cream to co� ee and, 1·289charcoal grills and, 2·10–11convection baking using, 2·110–111cooking food unevenly with, 3·314dark-surfaced pans and, 2·38fourth-power relationship to
temperature of, 1·287heat transfer with, 1·277, 284–286hot spots in baking and, 2·112microwave ovens and, 2·182physics of shiny griddles and, 1·284roasting and, 2·28, 32–33sweet spot of grills and, 2·14–17
radiation, ultraviolet. See ultraviolet radiation
radishesNukazuke, 3·354preserving, parametric recipe for,
3·348ragout of Grains, 5·125, 129raisins, Carbonated Golden Raisins,
5·157, 159Ramen Noodles, 5·247, 250Ramen Stock Powder, 2·455, 5·247Ramen Vegetables, 2·455, 5·247ramps
Pickled Ramps, 5·113, 118Razor Clam with Sauce Verte, 3·112
Ramsay, GordonModernist cuisine and, 1·63Nouvelle cuisine and individuality
of, 1·28rancidity
of freeze-dried meat, 2·447of frozen food, 1·306of reused deep-frying oil, 2·125of saturated vs. unsaturated oils,
2·126randomized clinical trials, 1·218
of cholesterol-lowering drug and heart disease, 1·227
of dietary fat and cancer, 1·233of dietary fat and heart disease,
1·229, 230–231of dietary � ber and colorectal cancer,
1·217of nutrition, 1·220of omega-3 fats and heart disease,
1·232of salt and hypertension, 1·234of vitamin supplements, 1·235of weight loss plans, 1·240, 241
randomized intervention trials, 1·214Rankine temperature scale, 1·266Rao, Hayagreeva, 1·26rapeseed oil, chemistry of, 2·126rare beef jus, parametric recipe for,
2·344–345Rare Beef Sausage, 3·249
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 99 3/22/11 10:56:43 AM
C I N D E X
RARE FLATIRON STEAKRRare Flatiron Steak, 5·49, 50rare salmon jus, parametric recipe for,
2·344–345Ras el Hanout, 2·405raspberries
dehydrating, parametric recipe for, 3·366
freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, 3·372
in Strawberry Gazpacho, 5·278ratings, for wines, 4·338–339Ratio: � e Simple Codes Behind the Cra�
of Everyday Cooking (Ruhlman), 1·95Rational combi ovens
comparing cooking modes for, 2·169cooking strategies for, 2·170e� ective cooking temperatures in,
2·165heat and humidity control in,
2·163–165, 167invention of, 2·154program cooking with, 2·169testing heat and humidity control in,
2·156–157Rautureau, � ierry, Spot Prawns with
Foie Gras Nage recipe, 4·233raw foods. See also speci� c foods
diet of, 1·247–249FDA Food Code on, 1·182, 184� avors of, 3·87food safety disclaimer rules for, 1·178foodborne illness risks with, 1·191freezing
FDA on time and temperature for, 1·186
water types and, 1·305–306hygiene and, 1·196plants as, biology of digesting, 3·269tartares and meat as, 3·62–69
example recipes for, 3·65–68water in, weight of, 3·79, 83
raw milk cheeseFDA safe cooking standards for,
1·170French vs. U.S. standards on, 1·171,
173Raw Okra, 5·90, 97raw packing, boiling-water canning and,
2·77Rayleigh sca� ering, 2·124, 4·203razor clams
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·103
noroviruses and, 1·155Razor Clam “Takoyaki,” 5·197, 199Razor Clam with Sauce Verte, 3·112
ready-to-eat food. See also sous videmarketing of, 2·265
recall bias, nutritional studies and, 1·218recipes
format for, 1·93, 96in Modernist Cuisine, 1·92–101
credit for, 1·100–101types of, 1·97–100. See also example
recipe entries; parametric recipe entries
scaling, baker’s percentage for, 1·95–97
red cabbageRed Coleslaw, 5·67, 72Red Wine Cabbage, 5·101, 105in Sauerkraut, 3·351, 5·35
red cabbage (continued)Vacuum-Concentrated Apple and
Cabbage Juice, 2·389red currants, as acidi� er, 2·314Red Dye # 2, 1·252red � esh, in tuna, 3·21red hot, 1·287red kidney beans, natural toxins of,
1·249red meat. See also speci� c meats
animals producing, 3·14–15breast cancer and, 1·221combi ovens vs. water bath cooking
of, 2·167–168in ducks vs. chickens, 3·16–17poultry, sous vide cooking, best bets
for, 3·99tenderizing enzymes in, 3·78in tuna, biology of, 3·21
red pearl onions, Compressed Dill Pickled Vegetables, 5·55, 58, 67
red wineConstructed Red Wine Glaze, 5·219,
221Red Wine Cabbage, 5·101, 105
Red-Eye Gravy, 5·101, 102Red-Onion Cream, 3·68reductions
for concentrating � avor, 2·379–380emulsi� ed bu� erfat in cream and,
4·205extracting � avors using stocks vs.,
2·288� avor release by, 4·11modern, for thickening, 4·19scaling using baker’s percentages
and, 1·96for thickening, 4·5, 7thickening by, various methods of,
4·11thickening sauces, jus, or glazes
with, 2·346vacuum. See vacuum reduction
Redzepi, RenéEdible Earth recipe, 4·37at elBulli, 1·39on Le Gargouillou, 3·294Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and
Tru� e Puree recipe, 4·114Modernist cuisine and, 1·70
re� ectivitybroilers and, 2·19, 22grills and, 2·15radiant heat and, 1·284–285
refraction, index of, 4·203refrigeration. See also chilling
of cold-smoked food, 2·143food preservation and, 2·252proper, importance of, 2·257sel rose as curing salt and, 3·162sous vide cooking and storage using,
2·206–207, 208of un� nished bo� les of wine, 4·346
refrigeratorsfor cook-chill sous vide, 2·255temperature control in, 1·205–207thawing using, 2·263
regional American cooking, 1·28regulations, U.S., on food safety,
1·165. See also U.S. Food and Drug Administration
reheatingof mass-market ready-to-eat foods,
2·265modern thickeners and, 4·5in sous vide cooking, 2·242, 262, 264thickener selection and, 4·15
rehydrationof freeze-dried foods, 2·447physics of dehydration and, 1·321
relative humidityboiling point of water and, 2·163drying foods and, 2·428equilibrium, 2·430measuring, 1·322on psychrometric charts, how to
read, 1·323water vapor and, 1·320–321, 325,
2·154relative risk, nutritional studies and,
1·219Rémoulade Sauce, 5·67, 75Renaud, Serge, 1·228rendering
bromelain for, 3·195cryorendering and
of subcutaneous fat, 3·122before vacuum packing, 2·268
of fat from meat tissue, 3·83methods for, 3·122strategies for, 3·145
rennet, as gel coagulant, 4·70reserve bo� ling of wine, taste of
ordinary wine bo� ling vs., 4·340reservoir chillers (water baths), 2·238restaurants. See also Modernist cuisine;
speci� c restaurantsfood safety disclaimer rules for, 1·178
Restaurant Apriori, 1·70Restaurant Hanner, 1·70Restaurante Calima, 1·57resting
a� er brining, 3·156chilling and, 2·254myth of, baking and, 2·105panfrying and, 2·38reheated food, 2·264
restrooms, personal hygiene and, 1·196Restructured Emmental Slices, 5·11, 14restructured meat
meat glue and, 3·250–256sausage as. See sausages
Restructured Potato Chips, 3·330resveratrol, heart disease and, 1·228retort bags, plastic/� exible
for canning, 2·77heat transfer in, 1·319 heating requirements and duration
for, 2·79reverse osmosis (RO)
concentrating � avor with, 2·379, 396food industry uses for, 1·335by kidneys, 3·141for purifying water, 1·335water for espresso-making and, 4·384wine and, 4·330
reverse spheri� cation, 4·184, 187, 5·254revolution
cuisine and, 1·18–20cultural change and, 1·16–18at low end of cooking and eating,
1·20–22Nouvelle cuisine, 1·24, 26–31
La Reynière (aka Robert Courtine), 1·26
Reyns, 4·6rhubarb
as acidi� er, 2·314compressing, parametric recipe for,
3·390cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·290impregnating, parametric recipe for,
3·390natural toxins of, 1·249preserving, parametric recipe for,
3·348Sour Rhubarb Sorbet, 5·277, 279
rhubarb water, parametric recipe for, 2·374–375
Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard Marmalade and Porcini, 3·97
ribose, 3·89rice
Black Sesame Rice Crisps, 4·304Candied Orange and Carrot Pulao,
5·94Cantonese Fried Rice, 2·176–177Crispy Dosa, 3·355Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice
and Sea Le� uce, 3·149Paella Rice, 5·239, 241Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Riso� o,
3·308pu� ed, parametric recipe for, 4·302Ragout of Grains, 5·125, 129Riso� o Milanese, 3·306–307smoking, parametric recipe for, 3·362Steamed Sticky Rice, 5·113, 119thickening with, parametric recipe
for, 4·28Toasted Rice Milk, 4·59
rice bran, Nukazuke, 3·354rice cookers, for sous vide cooking, 2·240rice crisp
parametric recipe for, 4·302Rice Crisp, 5·31, 32
rice � our, 3·376rice � our pasta and, parametric
recipe for, 3·381rice starch, 4·20, 28rice stick noodles, Pad � ai, 3·385rice vinegar, Soy Vinegar Infusion,
5·253, 256Rich Brown Stock, 2·297Richot, Charles, 1·238rico� a cheese
Crispy Goat’s Milk Rico� a Dumpling, 5·273, 274
Goat Milk Rico� a, 4·108parametric recipe for, 4·104Tomato Whey Broth, 4·49
Rienzner, Cristiano, 1·70rigid containers, vacuum packing using,
2·226–227rigor mortis, in muscle a� er slaughter,
3·32, 34rille� es
Beef Shank Rille� e, 5·49, 52Heather-Smoked Sturgeon Rille� es,
5·233, 235rinsing, a� er brining, 3·156, 158ripening
on command, how to, 3·285of cured meat or seafood, 3·167, 173of fruit, 3·283–284sous vide technique of, 2·250synchronized, chemistry of, 3·284
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 100 3/22/11 10:56:43 AM
I N D E X C I
SOUS VIDE SALMON SRipert, Eric
Escolar with Red Wine Bu� er recipe, 3·104
Fluke Ceviche recipe, 3·203New International cuisine and, 1·30pot-au-feu of, 5·49
riso� obest bets for, 3·305example recipes for, 3·306–309parametric recipe for, 3·304–305Riso� o Milanese, 3·306–307starch release during cooking of,
3·282ristre� os
blonding phase and, 4·388brewing, skill of choosing
temperature for, 4·385evolution of, 4·379
Ri� inger’s law, 2·401Ritz, César, 1·20� e River Café, New American cuisine
and, 1·28, 29RNA, in viruses, 1·152RO. See reverse osmosisroast. See also roasting; speci� c foods
derivation of term, 2·101FDA Food Code on cooking, 1·174sous vide vs. combi oven cooking of,
2·167–168Roast Pigeon Crown, 5·126, 132Roasted Candlenuts, 5·175, 177roasted hazelnut oil extract, parametric
recipe for, 2·326Roasted Scallion Marmalade, 5·253,
255roasted-hazelnut oil, Hazelnut “Cream,”
4·236roasting, 2·28–35
of beer can chicken, science of, 2·109calculations for, 2·28, 32cutaway illustration of, 2·104–105extended and simpli� ed 6D
Salmonella reduction guidelines for, 1·190
historical uses of, 1·16of meat
jus formation and, 2·343whole, FDA Food Code on oven
temperatures for, 1·186whole, FDA Food Code on time
and temperature for, 1·182–183, 184
pot-roasting as. See pot-roastingprogram cooking in combi oven for,
2·169Ronco Showtime Rotisserie Oven
for, 2·34–35spit-roasting as, 2·32–33turning or not turning in, 2·32–33of whole hog, 2·30–31
Robuchon, Joëlon Adrià as chef, 1·39mashed potatoes of, 1·37, 58New International cuisine and, 1·30Nouvelle cuisine and individuality
of, 1·27Potato Puree recipe, 3·296, 297restaurants of, 1·31Shell� sh Custard recipe, 4·162sous vide cooking and, 1·41, 42, 43,
2·195Robusta co� ee beans, 4·358
Roca, Joanbiography of, 1·58as Catalan/Spanish chef, 1·258Eggplant Foam recipe, 4·280Modernist cuisine and, 1·57Oysters with Cava Foam recipe,
4·277rotary evaporation and, 2·388Smoked Octopus recipe, 3·215Sous Vide Cuisine by, 1·83Suckling Pig Shoulder with Shallot
and Orange Sauce recipe, 3·110Roche, Ben, 1·69rock salt for brine, table salt vs., 2·260Rocket Evaporator, 2·391–395
example recipes for, 2·394rocket widget, in Guinness beer cans,
4·250rock� sh, cooking sous vide, parametric
recipe for, 3·102Roellinger, Olivier
Exotic Spice Mixture recipe, 2·405Indies Spice Blend recipe, 2·40319th-Century-Style Lobster with
Sherry and Cocoa recipe, 3·107roller mills, for dry-grinding, 2·404rolling boil, blanching using steam vs.,
2·267romaine le� uce
Caesar Salad, 3·373Smoked Le� uce, 5·11, 15
Roman Empirecookbook of, 1·10. See also Apiciusgastronomy of, 1·10–12
Romano beans, Fresh Bean Salad, 5·85, 87
Rømer, Ole, measuring speed of light and, 2·191
Romera, Miguel SánchezSteamed Cod with Cod Roe Velouté
and, 4·32tapioca starch gel product by, 4·29
Romesco Sauce, 2·419Ronco Showtime Rotisserie Oven,
2·34–35root vegetables. See also speci� c root
vegetablesRoot Vegetable Jus, 5·161, 163Root Vegetable Riso� o, 3·309Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 5·49, 53
roots, gelling agents from, 4·126rose petals
Blossom Salad, 5·171, 172Crystallized Rose Petals, 3·368
rose water, distillation of, 2·390rosemary extract, parametric recipe for,
2·326rose� a pa� ern, for ca� è la� es, 4·392,
394–395rotary evaporators, 2·384–394
boiling point vs. vacuum pressure in, 2·391
for concentrating � avor, 2·379, 380distillation using, 1·94, 2·384,
388–391essential oils and, 2·320manufacturers of, 2·384for Modernist kitchen, 2·285parts of, 2·386–387Rocket, Genevac, 2·391–395
rotary vegetable slicers, Japanese, 3·327rotavaps. See rotary evaporatorsrotaviruses, 1·155
Rothschild, Philippe de, 4·350rotisseries
roasting without turning vs. using, 2·32–33
sous vide vs., 2·228rotors
in colloid mills, 2·413–414in rotor-stator homogenizer, 2·413
rotor-stator homogenizersbreaking down food with, 2·400dispersing thickeners with, 4·24egg emulsions and, 4·226emulsifying with, 4·206, 208, 209foam forming with, 4·252friction e� ects in, 1·274hydration of ion-coagulated gels
with, 4·124hydrocolloid dispersion with, 4·38for Modernist kitchen, 2·284for shearing gels into � uids, 4·176wet-grinding with, 2·413, 420–421
roundworms, 1·120–123anisakid, 1·122–123Ascaris lumbricoides as, 1·123Trichinella as. See Trichinella spiralis;
trichinellosisroux
� avor of reduced jus vs., 4·11hydrocolloid dispersion in, 4·38technique of, 4·20, 22
Roux, Albert, 1·28, 41Roux, Michel, Nouvelle cuisine in the
U.K. and, 1·28Rouxl Britannia restaurants, 1·41royale custard, parametric recipe for,
4·92rubs, dry
Kansas Rub, 5·66, 68Memphis Rub, 5·66, 68parametric recipe for, 3·168–172
Ruhlman, Michael, 1·44, 95Blackstrap Molasses Country Ham
recipe, 3·183Ruscalleda, Carme
as Catalan/Spanish chef, 1·258crisping � sh skin by, 3·129
Russia, early gastronomy of, 1·8, 10Russian Pelmeni plated-dish recipe,
5·233–237Russian Smoked Salmon, 3·212rutabagas
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·289, 290
preserving, parametric recipe for, 3·348
Root Vegetable Jus, 5·161, 163in Sauerkraut, 3·351, 5·35Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 5·49, 53
Rye Bread, 5·55, 59
Ssabayon
Blood Orange Sabayon, 5·147, 148Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune
Sabayon, 3·363Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot
Sabayon, 4·274sable� sh, cold-smoking, parametric
recipe for, 3·210safety. See also food safety
cryogen handling, 2·464, 466–467liquid nitrogen and, 2·459, 464, 466meat grinding or chopping tools and,
3·233with microwave oven, 2·190Modernist cooking and, 1·101with pressure cooker, 2·291–292,
3·298steam burns and, 1·319, 2·154
sa� ower oil, chemistry of, 2·126sa� ron extract, parametric recipe for,
2·326Sa� ron Honey Foam, 5·94sa� ron infusion, parametric recipe for,
2·310salads. See also coleslaw
Blossom Salad, 5·171, 172Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 5·43,
47Cucumber Black-Eyed Pea Salad,
5·94Fresh Bean Salad, 5·85, 87Green Mango and Cashew Salad,
5·167, 169Marinated Crab Salad, 5·189, 191Navel Orange Salad, 5·135, 138Pea Vine Salad, 5·273, 275Piquillo Pepper and Strawberry
Salad, 5·277, 278Potato Salad, 5·67, 73Pu� ed Chickpea Salad, 5·135, 138Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesto
Salad, 4·53salamander
browning in, a� er sous vide cooking, 2·272–273
as original broiler, 2·18, 20salami, parametric recipe for, 3·244–245salinity
of brined and cured food, 3·152for brining, 3·154, 156, 158for curing, 3·160measuring, 2·313
during brining, 3·158salmon
cold-smoking, parametric recipe for, 3·210
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·102
diet and � esh color of, 3·93Grapefruit-Cured Salmon, 3·180Russian Smoked Salmon, 3·212Salmon Custard, 4·119Salmon Poached in Licorice, 4·155Salmon Rus plated-dish recipe,
5·161–165Salmon Tartare Cornets, 3·68in sorrel sauce, as � rst plated dish,
1·25Sous Vide Salmon, 5·161, 162
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 101 3/22/11 10:56:44 AM
C I I I N D E X
SALMON SKIN SOUFFLÉSSalmon Skin Sou� é, 5·161, 163Salmonella spp.
CDC on foods associated with, 1·180“danger zone” temperatures and,
1·176, 177, 178–179extended and simpli� ed 6D
reduction guidelines for, 1·190FDA Food Code on cooking pork
and, 1·179FDA Food Code on thermal death
curve for, 1·182–189� esh contamination and, 1·117as foodborne pathogens, 1·134FSIS on reduction of, 1·168misconceptions about, 1·118in poultry, FDA 2009 Food Code on,
1·175replication limits of, 1·145
Salmonella enterica, 1·132, 145Salmonella enteritidis, 1·118Salmonella Heidelberg, 1·132Salmonella typhimurium, 1·132salmon-poisoning � uke, 1·124salsify
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·289
Fossilized Salsify Branch, 3·399Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and
Tru� e Puree, 4·114Salsify Fondant, 5·205, 207
salt cod broth, parametric recipe for, 2·304–305
Salt Gel, 5·5, 9salt pickles, parametric recipe for, 3·349salt (sodium chloride or table salt). See
also brines; brining; curing; ice-brine baths; salting
bi� er � avors and, 5·227for brine, rock salt vs., 2·260characteristics of, 3·152, 154Clostridium per� ingens and, 1·141concentration of, brining and, 3·154drying with, 2·430, 3·344in fermented sausage, 3·250formation of, 4·126freezing-point depression and, 1·305health and, 1·234, 236–237hypertension research and, 1·234for juicing, 2·335legislation regulating, 1·237moisture absorbed by, 2·428nucleation sites in boiling and, 1·316organic label for, 1·245other salts for brining vs., chemistry
of, 3·157production process for, 1·256in sausage, 3·223scaling using baker’s percentages
and, 1·96seasoning with, 2·312sel rose as
chemistry of, 3·162composition of, 3·161
solubility in water of, 1·331, 332weights and measures for, 1·94
salt-coagulated egg, parametric recipe for, 4·82
Salted, Freeze-Dried Lobster, 2·454, 5·185
Salted Caramel Apple Puree, 5·17, 20salted cod roe, Fossilized Salsify
Branch, 3·399Salted Cucumber, 5·233, 236
Salted Halibut, 3·187, 5·151salted pollock roe, Fossilized Salsify
Branch, 3·399salting. See also brining; curing
example recipes for, 3·350–351, 354of � sh, scombroid poisoning and,
1·139parametric recipe for, 3·348–349protein gel of meat and seafood and,
3·84with salts other than sodium
chloride, chemistry of, 3·157 saltpeter
for dry-curing, 3·165for food preservation, 1·144–145in sel rose (curing salt), 3·162
saltscuring
cold-smoked food and, 2·143composition of, 3·161in fermented sausages, 3·222in sausage, 3·226sel rose and, chemistry of, 3·162sodium nitrate in, 3·158
for marinating, 3·190mineral, plant food cooking and,
3·278salting with salts other than sodium
chloride and, chemistry of, 3·157saltwater, shell� sh � avors and, 3·27salty brine. See ice-brine bathssampling error, in small-scale studies,
1·218Sanders, Harland
� e Colonel’s Chicken recipe, 3·336franchises of, 1·31innovations of, 1·21, 22pressure fryers and, 2·120trade secrets of, 1·76
sandwiches, Egg Salad Sandwich, 4·90sanitization, pasteurization vs., 2·250Sant Pau. See Ruscalleda, CarmeSantamaria, Santi, 1·63, 258Sant’Eustachio Il Ca� è, 4·374, 396Santini, Nadia, Nouvelle cuisine and,
1·28Santos, Rafael García, 1·59sarcomeres, in muscle, 3·6, 8–9sardines
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·102
Eggplant Foam, 4·280saturated condition, solubility and,
1·331saturated fat. See also cholesterol
characteristics of, 1·222French cuisine and, 1·228
saturated oils, � avor of unsaturated oils vs., 2·126
saturated solutions, 1·331, 332saturation vapor pressure, 1·320sauces. See also barbecue sauces
cheese, parametric recipe for, 4·223converting grams to volumes for,
5·XXXVIIcooling of, 1·206� our-thickened, � avor release and,
4·11freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,
2·451Jus Gras, 4·237Pasta Marinara, 3·386
sauces (continued)Pressure-Cooked Polenta with
Strawberry Marinara, 4·50Rémoulade Sauce, 5·67, 75Sauce Allemande, 4·88Sauce Vin Jaune, 5·113, 116Sea Urchin Tartar Sauce, 5·143, 145smoking and application of, 3·211Sofrito, 5·239, 243stocks for, 2·288thickening strategies for, 2·346vacuum evaporation for reducing,
2·346XO Sauce, 4·52
saucisson secparametric recipe for, 3·244–245Saucisson Sec, 3·247
sauerkrautabout, 5·39Braised Sauerkraut, 5·35, 39Sauerkraut, 3·351, 5·35
sausage stu� ers, 3·227, 232 sausages, 3·220–250. See also chorizo
Alsatian Munster Sausage, 5·35, 39basic principles of, 3·220, 222blood, history of, 3·220Boudin Blanc, 3·243Cantonese Fried Rice, 2·176–177casing for
preparation of, 3·226types of, 3·227
Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 3·248coarse-ground, 3·220, 222
best bets for, 3·236–237cryosha� ering for, 3·230parametric recipe for, 3·236–237
cold-smoked, 2·143emulsi� ed, 3·222, 225
best bets for, 3·238–239Emulsi� ed Sausage with Fat Gel,
3·248Emulsion-Style Sausages, 3·238–239fat in, incorporating and holding,
3·224–225fermented. See fermented sausagesFermented Sausage, 3·244–245forming and � nishing, how to,
3·240–241, 246Frankfurter, 3·242fresh, 3·222Fried Chicken Sausage, 3·249gel (binding) for, making, 3·222–223Green Garlic and Pork Sausage, 5·85hot-smoking, parametric recipe for,
3·210Italian Sausage, 3·242linking technique for, 3·230Low-Fat Chicken Sausage, 3·248meat gels and, 3·70meat grinding or chopping tools for,
3·230–233Modernist, 3·248–249other ingredients in, 3·225–227overcooking, precautions for, 3·233poach test for, 3·225pregrinding meat treatments for,
3·228Rare Beef Sausage, 3·249sheets of, 3·241stu� ng, 3·227, 230tenderness of, fat and, 3·224Toulousain Garlic Sausage, 5·81, 82
Sautéed Maitake Mushroom, 5·11, 15
sautéing, 2·44–47covered, 2·58–61
chao technique and, 2·54cutaway illustration of, 2·60–61searing or glazing before, 2·58
� ipping food in, 2·46–47heat transfer by conduction in, 1·277pan selection for, 2·45tips for, 2·44
Savoy, GuyGras, Laurent and, 1·69New International cuisine and, 1·30
savoy cabbageSauerkraut, 3·351White Coleslaw, 5·67, 72Wok-Fried Malaysian Vegetables,
5·167, 169Saxe, Godfrey, 3·220Scabin, Davide, 1·70scales
temperature, 1·266, 285–286for weight measurement
digital. See digital scaleslaboratory, for measuring
thickeners, 4·23scallions, Roasted Scallion Marmalade,
5·253, 255scallops
biology of, 3·26, 27Chawanmushi, 4·96chicken skin glued to, 3·252contamination of, 3·27–28cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·103freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,
2·451Scallop Mochi, 4·308–309, 5·197,
202Scallop Tartare, 3·67in Seafood Paper, 3·188shucking of, 3·52
Scandinavia, early gastronomy of, 1·8, 10
Schecter, Andy, 4·396Schilling, Hans and Marke� a, 1·33, 34schizophrenia, Toxoplasma gondii and,
1·127Schlosser, Eric, 1·23Schlow, Michael, Achatz’s � rst meal at
elBulli and, 1·38schmaltz, chemistry of, 2·126Schneider, Martin, 1·70schnitzels, 2·127Schomer, David
on consistency, 4·396cooling burr grinders by, 4·376, 378espresso-making and, openness of,
4·374inventions by, 4·398Myhrvold and, 4·375pro� le of, 4·399
Schroeder, William, 1·62–63Schultz, Howard, 4·398Schwa, 1·69scienti� c names, origin of, 1·112scienti� c research. See also double-blind
trials; food science; randomized clinical trials
food safety rules and, 1·166sCJD (sporadic Creutzfeldt-Jakob
disease)scombroid poisoning, spoiled � sh and,
1·139
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 102 3/22/11 10:56:44 AM
I N D E X C I I I
SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS Sscorching, of deep-fried foods, 2·125Scoville, Wilbur, 3·270Scoville Heat Units (SHU), 3·270scrambled eggs
parametric recipe for, 4·92Scrambled Egg Foam, 5·215, 216
scrapie, 1·157, 158screw tops, for wine bo� les, 4·344, 346sea bass, cooking sous vide, parametric
recipe for, 3·102sea cucumber
about, 5·203Bincho-Tan-Grilled Sea Cucumber
Maitake Mushroom, Shisito Pepper, 5·197, 203
sea le� uce, 5·28sea urchin tongues
Sea Urchin Bo� arga, 3·186, 5·225, 226
Sea Urchin Bu� er, 5·225, 227Sea Urchin Tartar Sauce, 5·143, 145Sea Urchin Tofu, Tokyo Negi,
Sesame, Ponzu, 5·197, 202Shell� sh Custard, 4·162Uni with Whipped Tofu and
Tapioca, 4·285sea urchins, biology of, 3·30–31seafood. See also � sh; shell� sh; speci� c
types of seafoodActiva as glue for, 3·250–256blanching or searing before cooking,
2·269brining, 3·152, 154, 156, 158
best bets for, 3·172converting muscle into, 3·37–38, 40,
42cooking
color and appearance of, 3·92–93� avor and, 3·84, 87–91grilling. See grillingideal temperature for, 3·89innards of, 3·142–143juiciness of, 3·79, 83muscles and, 3·5optics of, 3·93–94skin of, 3·129–132sous vide, 2·206, 276–279stages in, from raw to cooked, 3·76,
78–79succulence of, 3·83–84tenderness of, 3·70trade-o� s in, 3·94–95
critical temperature for freeze-drying, 2·446
crustaceans, biology of, 3·28–31cured
ripening of, 3·167, 171smoking of, 3·173
curing, 3·158, 160, 162best bets for, 3·172
cu� ing, 3·52–60fermenting, drying with warm air
and, 2·433frozen, handling and quality of,
1·182how muscle works in, 3·20–31Maillard reaction and � avor of,
3·89–91marinating, 3·190–207mollusks, biology of, 3·24–26muscles in, 3·20–31salting. See curingsausage made from
seafood (continued)best bets for, 3·238making a gel (binding) for, 3·222
Seafood Paper, 3·188searing before covered sautéing of,
2·58shell� sh. See shell� shsmoking, 3·208–219
best bets for, 3·210sources for, 5·XXXIIItartares, 3·62–64, 66–69temperature and � avor of, 3·88–89tenderizing enzymes in, 3·78tenderness of, 3·10–11
seafood brine, basic, parametric recipe for, 3·168
seal meat, myoglobin in, 3·15Sealed Air Corporation, 1·42seals, for canning, 2·77 seam cu� ing, 3·45, 47Seared Hamachi, 5·147, 149Seared Langoustine, 5·239, 245Seared Strawberry, 5·277, 279searing. See also cryosearing
with charcoal vs. gas grills, 2·11in combi oven, convection mode for,
2·168covered sautéing and, 2·58to crisp skin, 3·123extended and simpli� ed 6D
Salmonella reduction guidelines for, 1·190
food safety and, 1·191frozen meat, 3·122before Jaccarding, 3·51a la plancha, 2·40–41for Maillard reaction, 3·95for sealing juices in meat, myth of,
3·85for sous vide cooking, 2·267, 269,
270–275temperatures for, 1·186–187before vacuum packing vs. a� er
cooking, 2·268seasonings. See also dry rubs; spice
mixes; spices; speci� c seasoningsconverting grams to volumes for,
5·XXXVIIImeat and seafood, 3·88with salt and other � avor enhancers,
2·312with wine, beer, and spirits, 2·317
seasoning woks or frying pans, 2·53Sea� le, as co� ee capital of the world,
history of, 4·398Sea� le’s Best Co� ee, 4·398seaweed
Bacon Dashi, 2·308Fluke Cured in Kombu, 3·181Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice
and Sea Le� uce, 3·149gelling agents from, 4·68, 126Hon Dashi, 2·306, 5·197hydrocolloids from, 4·124Marinated Ogo, 5·175, 177preserving, parametric recipe for,
3·348Seaweed Tapenade, 5·25, 27Seaweed Vinegar, 2·315thickening agents from, 4·5, 19types of, 5·28
secondary emulsion, 4·206� e Secret Life of Germs (Tierno), 1·196
sedimentationas draining in foams, 4·249as emulsion failure, 4·210
seedsdistribution of, ecology of, 3·265hydrocolloids from, 4·124mustard, preserving, parametric
recipe for, 3·348seasonal mélanges with, 3·294sesame, Pressure-Cooked Sesame
Seeds, 3·303, 5·181toxins in, and propagation of, 3·262typical
fat content of, 5·XLIIIwater content of, 5·XLI
sel rosechemistry of, 3·162composition of, 3·161
selection bias, nutritional studies and, 1·219
selenium, health bene� ts of, 1·235self-cleaning combi ovens, 2·169semiconvecting foods, pressure-
canning of, 2·88semidry sausages, 3·246, 250semolina pasta
parametric recipe for, 3·381Semolina Pasta, 3·382
Senderens, AlainDuck Apicius and, 5·121Foie Gras à la Vapeur recipe, 5·109Le Nouveau Guide on, 1·26on wine pairings, 4·352
sensory scienceBlumenthal and, 1·50of wine tasting, 4·337
sequestrantscalcium and, 4·126–127coagulant molecules and, 4·72hydrating ion-coagulated gels with,
4·125using, 4·129
Sergi Arola Gastro, 1·57serovars (serotypes), bacterial variants
as, 1·132Serra, Richard, Yogurt Foam and Sweet
Potato Chips recipe, 4·287Serrano, Julian, New International
cuisine and, 1·30service à la Russe, 1·25serving temperature
brewed co� ee and, 4·364gel selection and, 4·73thickener selection and, 4·14–15
sesame oil, chemistry of, 2·126sesame seeds, Pressure-Cooked Sesame
Seeds, 3·303, 5·181set foams, 4·288–301
baked, water as secondary foaming gas for, 4·254
baked goods as, 4·245best bets for, 4·288–289example recipes for, 4·290–301frozen, 4·245, 247parametric recipe for, 4·288–289as thermo-irreversible gels, 4·244vacuum-in� ated, 4·252, 254, 310–315
se� ling periodin baking, 2·106in deep-frying, 2·116–117in drying, 2·431
Seven Countries Study, 1·225sha� horsepower, 1·274
shallotscooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·289, 290, 292Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 5·43,
47puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425
shallow fryingamount of oil for, 2·127–128heat conduction in, 2·127
Shanghai Soup Dumplings plated-dish recipe, 5·253–256
Shangri-La diet, 1·241Shanker, Anjana, chaat masala made by,
5·281shark, Greenland, chemistry of, 3·43Shaved Foie Gras, 3·177shear forces
in foam forming, 4·252viscosity of � uids and, 4·5–6
shear-thinning � uidsemulsions as, 4·204� uid gels as, 4·16, 176as non-Newtonian � uids, 4·6whipped cream as, 4·248
sheep. See also lambscrapie in, 1·157
sheep liver � uke, 1·123shell� sh. See also speci� c shell� sh
allergies to, 1·238biology of, 3·26–28cooking sous vide
example recipes for, 3·107parametric recipe for, 3·102–103
fat content of, 5·XLIII plated-dish recipes for, 5·179–207raw, food safety and, 3·27–28Shell� sh Bu� er, 2·329Shell� sh Custard, 4·162Shell� sh Omakase plated-dish
recipe, 5·197–203smoked
example recipe for, 3·215parametric recipe for, 3·210
tender, cooking sous videbest bets for, 3·103parametric recipe for, 3·103
tough, cooking sous videbest bets for, 3·108example recipes for, 3·112 parametric recipe for, 3·108
shell� sh consommé, parametric recipe for, 2·374–375
shell� sh jus, parametric recipe for, 2·344–345
shell� sh sausage, parametric recipe for, 3·238–239
shell� sh stockparametric recipe for, 2·296–297Shell� sh Stock, 2·297, 5·185, 186
Shelton, Winston. See also CVap water-vapor ovens
on forced convection in ovens, 2·159pressure fryers and, 2·120
Sherry Gel Cube, 5·267, 270Shigella spp., 1·134, 145Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy Grapes,
Fresh Wasabi, and Miso Powder, 5·197, 200
shiitake mushroomscooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·289Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino,
4·275
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 103 3/22/11 10:56:44 AM
C I V I N D E X
SHIITAKE MUSHROOMSSshiitake mushrooms (continued)
Mushroom Ketchup, 5·11, 13Mushroom Puree, 5·215, 216Shiitake Marmalade, 5·5, 7Sichuan Bok Choy, 3·313Sweetbreads with Sour Mango
Powder and Shiitake, 3·151shimeji mushrooms
Compressed Dill Pickled Vegetables, 5·55, 58
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·289
French Scrambled Eggs, 4·93Shimomura, Koji, 1·70shisito pepper, Bincho-Tan-Grilled Sea
Cucumber Maitake Mushroom, Shisito Pepper, 5·197, 203
SHMP. See sodium hexametaphosphateshot glass, pulling espresso shot into,
4·384 shrimp
biology of, 3·28, 31brining, parametric recipe for, 3·172dried, Pad � ai, 3·385Fermented Shrimp Sheets, 5·167,
168as seafood gel, 3·222Shrimp and Grits, 3·377Shrimp Cocktail, 3·107Shrimp Cocktail plated-dish recipe,
5·180–183Spot Prawn and Lotus Root
Tempura with Smoked White Soy Sauce, 5·197, 201
SHU (Scoville Heat Units), 3·270SI units (Système International
d’Unités), 1·272Sichuan Bok Choy, 3·313side towels, cross-contamination and,
1·200Siebeck, Wolfram, 1·62sieving. See also � ltering
equipment for, 2·286for � ltering, 2·351, 353
signature dishes, Modernist cuisine at elBulli vs., 1·37
silica geldesiccant properties of, 2·428, 433freeze-dried food storage and,
2·447silicone mats, 2·286silicone molds, 2·286silicone oven mi� s, conduction in,
1·280Silken Tofu, 4·113simmering
boiling vs., 1·316de� nition of, 1·317
simple syrup, as reduction, 4·11simulations, computer. See computer
simulation modelsSinclair, Upton, 3·35single-disc mills, for dry-grinding,
2·404sinks, cross-contamination and, 1·200Siphoned Sou� é á la Lorraine, 4·297Siphoned Tempura Ba� er, 5·143, 144siphons. See soda siphon; whipping
siphonsskate
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·102
skate (continued)Skate in Black Bu� er plated-dish
recipe, 5·157–159Skate Pavé with Bread Crust, 5·157,
159skin, 3·116–135. See also chicken skin;
duck skin; � sh skinbaking chicken upright and, 2·109of cephalopods, 3·24components of, 3·116cooking separately from meat, 3·122crisping, 3·123
approaches to, 3·123a� er cooking sous vide, 2·268of � sh, 3·129slime as key to, 3·129of small � sh, how to, 3·130sous vide, of � sh, 3·131
meatcooking, 3·116–129, 133–135gluing on, 3·252
pu� ng, 3·123so� ening, 3·116, 118, 122–123
skin-puncturing toolfor Modernist kitchen, 2·286Peking Duck cooking using, 3·122
skyr, parametric recipe for, 4·56slaughterhouse practices, 3·32, 34–35,
36Slayer espresso machine, 4·398, 400,
401slicing
of � sh, for nigiri sushi, 3·60of meat, 3·47, 50, 76
slime, crispy skin and, physiology of, 3·129
Slow Food, history of, 1·23slow-curing rub, parametric recipe for,
3·169slow-twitch muscles
fast-twitch muscles vs., 3·11–12fat content and, 3·18in meat, 3·11–12meat color and, 3·14–15
slug-and-column boiling, 1·316, 318, 2·68–69
slurry method, for Activa bonds, 3·256small dense low-density lipoproteins
(sdLDL), 1·226, 227small-scale scienti� c studies, 1·218SMC (super methylcellulose), for
cellulose gum gels, parametric recipe for, 4·170, 171
smells. See aromas; odorsSmith, Clark, on dealcoholization, 4·331smoke. See also smoking
capturing � avor of, 2·138chemistry of � avor and, 2·12hot vs. cold, 2·140–141liquid
chemistry of, 2·149for cold-smoking, 3·361
making, 2·134, 137smell of, appeal to humans, 3·208temperature of, 2·140–141
smoke condensates, drenching food with, 2·149
smoke gun, packing and lighting, how to, 3·214
smoke points, of frying oils, 2·116, 125, 126
Smoked Egg Crème Caramel, 4·101smoked � sh, example recipe for, 3·212
Smoked Le� uce, 5·11, 15Smoked Octopus, 3·215Smoked Pepper Puree, 5·55, 57Smoked Pork Cheek, 5·35, 38Smoked Potato Con� t, 5·193, 195Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune
Sabayon, 3·363smoking, 2·132–149, 3·208–219. See also
barbecue; smokeair � ow and temperature for, 2·137capturing � avor in, 2·138chemicals and, 2·140cold, 2·141–143, 3·61of dairy products
best bets for, 4·100example recipes for, 4·101
of deep-frying oil, 2·124of eggs, best bets for, 4·100equipment for, 2·146–147, 285, 3·208of fermented sausages, 3·222� re for, 3·208, 211of � sh, scombroid poisoning and,
1·139� esh surface in, 3·211hot, 2·143, 148, 3·211, 361humidity and, 2·132by hunter-gatherers, 1·6making smoke for, 2·134, 137of meat
example recipe for, 3·213parametric recipe for, 3·210
myths and lore of, 2·145of plant foods, 3·344, 361–363
example recipe for, 3·363parametric recipe for, 3·362
progressive, 2·148regional specialties in, 3·218–219ripening of cured meat or seafood
and, 3·173of sausages, 3·240of shell� sh
example recipe for, 3·215parametric recipe for, 3·210
smoke temperature in, 2·140–141tapeworms and, 1·124temperature for, 2·132, 135wet vs. dry food and, 2·141wood choices for, 2·136
snailsbiology of, 3·26cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·108farmed, 5·243Sous Vide Braised Snail, 5·239, 243
snappercooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·102Crispy Snapper Skin, 5·167, 168Sous Vide Snapper, 5·167, 169
SNCF (French railway system), sous vide cooking and, 1·41
soap, as surfactant, 4·202Soccarat Tuile, 5·239, 245“� e Socrates of the Nouvelle Cuisine,”
1·26soda siphon, 2·286soda water
Priestley’s “� xed air” and, 2·464taste of, 2·465
sodascarbon dioxide for, 1·334, 4·254ready-to-drink, 1·20
sodium, ion-exchange � lters and, 1·335
sodium alginateas emulsion stabilizer, 4·215as foam stabilizer, 4·257grades of, 5·256interactions with other thickeners,
4·44–45product guide for, 4·IV–Vproperties and uses of, 4·42–43for spheri� cation, parametric recipe
for, 4·187sodium benzoate, fresh juice color and,
2·338sodium caseinate, for froths, parametric
recipe for, 4·264sodium citrate
hydrating ion-coagulated gels with, 4·126
processed cheese food and, 4·222product guide for, 4·IV–Vas sequestrant, 4·129
sodium hexametaphosphate (SHMP)for brining or curing, 3·157for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe
for, 4·165hydrating LA gellan with, 4·125product guide for, 4·IV–Vas sequestrant, 4·129for spheri� cation, parametric recipe
for, 4·187sodium nitrate, 3·158, 165sodium nitrite, 1·144–145, 3·165, 226sodium pyrophosphate, 4·IV–Vsodium tripolyphosphate
for brining or curing, 3·157, 158in marinade, 3·143myosin extraction for sausage and,
3·223Sofrito, 5·239, 243so� drinks
carbon dioxide for, 1·334, 4·254ready-to-drink, 1·20
so� -boiled eggsparametric recipe for, 4·79perfect, how to, 4·79process for, 4·74So� -Boiled Egg and Garlic
Emulsion, 4·227sole
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·102
in Seared Hamachi, 5·147, 149sole meunière and, science of, 3·40Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot
Sabayon, 4·274Soler, Juli, 1·33, 34, 38solids
bulking, hydrocolloid hydration and, 4·40
dissolved, reduction and, 4·11as foaming agents, 4·244Fourier on heat conduction through,
1·278hot, physics of blowing on, 1·288internal energy of, 1·264
physics of, 1·301phase changes and thermal energy
from, 1·290radiant heat from, 1·285rheologic descriptions of, 4·VIIIas solvents, 1·330suspended, molding gels with, how
to, 4·133suspension in, gel selection and, 4·73
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 104 3/22/11 10:56:45 AM
I N D E X C V
SPOILAGE BACTERIA Ssolubility. See also dissolved materials
concentration of solution and, 1·331of polar solids, 1·330
solubility limit, 1·331solubles concentration, brewing control
chart on, 4·366–367solubles yield, brewing control chart on,
4·366–367solutes, 1·330solutions, 1·330. See also dissolved
materials; solubilitySolvay process, 1·255solvent extraction, of essential oils,
2·320solvents, 1·330sonicators, 2·398Sontheimer, Carl, 2·412sorbet
Aerated Mango Sorbet, 4·311pacotizing, 2·406, 407, 408–409Sour Rhubarb Sorbet, 5·277, 279
sorbitan esters, as surfactant emulsi� ers, 4·216–217
sorbitolfor hot fruit gels, parametric recipe
for, 4·165for hot gels, parametric recipe for,
4·160Sørensen, Søren Peter Lauritz, 3·194sou� és
cutaway illustration of, 4·248–249Gruyère Sou� é, 4·301Salmon Skin Sou� é, 5·161, 163as set foam, 4·247–248Siphoned Sou� é á la Lorraine, 4·297
sound, Blumenthal’s use of, 1·50soup, Adrià’s method for serving, 1·52Sour Cream Spaetzle (Csipetke), 4·117,
5·55, 59sour � avor, co� ee brewing and, 4·364sour mango powder, Sweetbreads with
Sour Mango Powder and Shiitake, 3·151Sour Rhubarb Sorbet, 5·277, 279sour vinegar pickles, parametric recipe
for, 3·349sous vide methods, 2·192–279
aging braises and pot roasts and, 2·98
aging technique using, 2·250AGS system of vacuum packing and,
1·40bene� ts of, 2·198–199, 201blanching for, 2·266–275chilling strategies, 2·251–265common myths about, science of,
2·206–207con� t, 2·128–129cook-chill. See cook-chill sous vide
methodscookers for, types of, 2·232–233cooking foods directly from freezer
and, 2·258, 262cooking strategies for, 2·204–205,
242–251cooking times and
for cylinder-shaped food with diameter 15 cm/ 6 in, 2·276
for cylinder-shaped food with length 15 cm/ 6 in, 2·277
for cylinder-shaped food with thickness about equal to diameter, 2·278
sous vide methods (continued)for slabs of meat with width and
length � ve times its thickness, 2·279
cooking to speci� c temperatures and, 2·243–247
de� nition of, 2·195, 197development of, 2·252, 265equipment for, 2·228–241. See also
equipment; speci� c types of equipmentfor home use, 1·73
extended and simpli� ed 6.5D Salmonella reduction for, 1·193
extracting � avors with, 2·251FDA rules on, 1·182, 186, 189food poisoning and, 1·138holding food at target temperature
and, 2·247–249at home, history of, 1·73infusing � avors with, 2·251liquid nitrogen and, 2·459low-temperature steam mode for,
2·157for mass-market dinners, 2·265New York City health department
rules on, 1·188, 195packaging food for. See vacuum
packingpasteurizing for storage using,
2·249–250reheating and, 2·242, 262, 264ripening technique using, 2·250searing and, 2·266–275smoking using, 2·148steps in, 2·202–203stocks and, 2·302temperature control with,
2·230–231thawing or cooking foods directly
from freezer and, 2·258, 262water baths for. See water bathswater circulation control for,
2·234–235Sous Vide and Pressure-Cooked Veal
Breast with Bulbous Vegetables, 3·111Sous Vide Artichoke, 5·239, 244Sous Vide Baby Beet, 5·181, 183Sous Vide Baby Golden Beet, 5·233,
235Sous Vide Beef Juice, 2·349Sous Vide Beef Rib Steak, 5·5, 7Sous Vide Berry Juice, 2·340Sous Vide Black Cod, 5·171, 173Sous Vide Braised Snail, 5·239, 243Sous Vide Clam and Oat Riso� o, 3·308Sous Vide Cucumber Pickles, 3·353Sous Vide Cuisine (Roca), 1·58Sous Vide Duck Con� t Pavé, 5·81, 82Sous Vide Duck Ham, 5·85, 87Sous Vide Fish Stock, 2·303Sous Vide Foie Gras, 5·109, 110Sous Vide Glazed Pearl Onion, 5·219,
221Sous Vide Golden Beets, 5·233, 235Sous Vide Green Asparagus, 5·147, 149Sous Vide Guinea Hen, 5·135, 137Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise,
1·95–96, 4·228Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 4·227Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 2·330Sous Vide Lentils, 5·267, 271Sous Vide Monk� sh Pavé, 5·151, 155
Sous Vide Mussel, 5·151, 154Sous Vide Mussel Juice, 2·346Sous Vide Octopus, 5·193, 194Sous Vide Pigeon O� al, 5·125, 130Sous Vide Ponzu, 2·313Sous Vide Pork Belly, 5·101, 102Sous Vide Prawn Jus, 2·347Sous Vide Rabbit Loin, 5·239, 242Sous Vide Rare Beef Jus, 2·349Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 5·49, 53Sous Vide Salmon, 5·161, 162Sous Vide Snapper, 5·167, 169Sous Vide Sweetbreads, 5·31, 32Sous Vide Turnip, 5·31, 33Sous Vide Veal Tongue, 5·49, 50Sous Vide Vegetable Jus, 2·347Sous Vide Vegetable Stock, 2·303Sous Vide White Asparagus, 5·147, 149South Beach Diet, 1·242South Carolina BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 70South Carolina hospital food, AGS
system of vacuum packing for, 1·40Southern barbecue, hot-smoking and,
3·211soy, foaming agent in, 4·251soy curd. See also tofu
traditional method for, 4·102soy gels, parametric recipe for,
4·116–117soy lecithin
de-oiled, for airs and froths, parametric recipe for, 4·264
product guide for, 4·II–IIIsoy milk
Frozen White “Tru� e,” 3·400–401Soy Milk, 4·58
soy oil, hydrogenated, chemistry of, 2·126
soy saucePassion Fruit-White Soy Sauce
Vinaigre� e, 5·181, 183smoking, parametric recipe for,
3·362Soy Sauce Cloud, 4·299Soy Vinegar Infusion, 5·253, 256
soy yuba, 5·205Abalone and Foie Gras Shabu-Shabu
with Yuba and Enoki, 5·197, 203Green Pea Yuba, 4·115
soybean oil, chemistry of, 2·126soybeans, allergies to, 1·238spaetzle, Sour Cream Spaetzle
(Csipetke), 4·117, 5·55, 59Spaghe� i alle Vongole plated-dish
recipe, 5·229–231Spaghe� i Carbonara, 3·384spaghe� i squash, Marinated Spaghe� i
Squash, 5·147, 149Spago, 1·29Spain
early gastronomy of, 1·10Horchata drinks in, 4·59in� uence on Western cuisine by, 1·14Modernist cuisine in, 1·57Nouvelle cuisine in, 1·28
Spam, 1·21, 22–23sparkling white wine. See also
ChampagneFizzy Grape Fluid Gel, 4·183Oysters with Cava Foam, 4·277
Sparta, Greece, military cuisine in, 1·12, 13
species, in scienti� c naming system, 1·112
speci� c heatcalculating e� ciency using, 1·275de� nition of, 1·266–267heat capacity of cookware and, 1·278how liquid nitrogen boils and,
science of, 2·457measuring of, 1·268
speci� c heat capacityof common kitchen materials, 1·267de� nition of, 1·266–267
spectrum. See also emission spectraheat rays on, 1·284infrared, 1·287
Spectrum diet, 1·242Spencer, Percy, 1·22, 2·182–183spheres, molding gel into, 4·135spheri� cation, 4·184–195
Adrià’s use of, 1·39, 4·184alginate for, 4·127best bets for, 4·187with cryogens, 4·184direct, 4·130, 186evolution of, 5·256example recipes for, 4·188–195hydrocolloid coagulation and, 4·70melon juice beads due to, 4·48parametric recipe for, 4·186–187reverse, 4·187, 5·254suspending solids in gelled spheres
and, 4·187spice mixes
Fish Spice Mix, 5·151, 154Spice-Mix Emulsion, 5·151, 155Sweet Spice Blend, 5·211, 212
Spiced Ash, 5·17, 22Spiced Chili Oil, 2·330Spiced Honey Glass, 5·121, 123Spiced Walnut Vinegar Gel, 5·109, 111Spice-Mix Emulsion, 5·151, 155spices
for brining or curing, 3·158medieval cuisine and, 1·12in sausage, 3·226seasonal mélanges with, 3·295toasting, 5·94trading, discovery of New World
and, 1·14, 3·197spinach
cookingbene� ts of, 3·267sous vide, parametric recipe for,
3·290Creamed Spinach, 4·55dehydrating, parametric recipe for,
3·366E. coli O157:H7 outbreak of 2006
and, 1·169–170, 172, 195puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425Spinach Paper, 3·369
spinalis dorsi, in pork and beef, 3·15spirits. See also alcohol (ethanol); speci� c
alcoholic beveragesdistillation of, 2·384, 390production process for liquor and,
1·256seasoning with, 2·317
spit jacks for roasting, 2·28spit-roasting, 2·32–33spi� le, human, contamination by, 1·116,
117spoilage bacteria, 1·133–134, 135
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 105 3/22/11 10:56:45 AM
C V I I N D E X
SPONGESSsponges, cross-contamination and,
1·200spongiform encephalopathies,
transmissible, 1·156–159sporadic Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease
(sCJD), 1·157spores, bacterial, food spoilage and,
1·136, 138–141Spot Prawn and Lotus Root Tempura
with Smoked White Soy Sauce, 5·197, 201
Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage, 4·233spray dryer, example recipes for, 2·443Spray-Dried Blood Orange Juice, 2·443Spray-Dried Bu� ermilk, 2·443spray-drying
characteristics of, 2·438–441equipment for, 2·285, 430method for, 2·442
spreadscheese, parametric recipe for, 4·223Olive Oil Spread, 4·51
Spring Garlic Consommé, 5·85, 86spring-loaded valves, for pressure
cookers, 2·86–87Square Mile Co� ee, 4·396squash. See also speci� c types of squash
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·289
dehydrating, parametric recipe for, 3·366
Squash Glaze, 5·60, 63squid
biology of, 3·24cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·108scoring to tenderize, 3·56in Seafood Paper, 3·188Squid Sicilian Lifeguard-Style, 3·113
squid inkSquid Ink Fluid Gel, 4·131Squid-Ink Bean-Sprout Riso� o,
3·397Ssamjang Paste, 5·285, 287St. John, 3·142Staphylococcus aureus, 1·135, 144–145star anise extract, parametric recipe for,
2·326star anise infusion, parametric recipe
for, 2·310Starbucks, 4·398Starch-Infused Fries, 3·324Starch-Infused Ultrasonic Fries, 3·325starches, 4·20–37. See also speci� c
starchesbest bets for thickening with, 4·28dispersion of, 4·20, 22drying plants foods with, 3·365in fermented sausage, 3·246� avor release by, 4·11foam forming with, 4·244, 247, 255gelling agents from, 4·68, 69hydration of, 4·22modi� ed. See modi� ed starchesin plant foods, 3·280–283plated-dish recipes for, 5·223–256pregelatinized
as emulsion stabilizer, 4·215thickening sauces, jus, or glazes
with, 2·346proprietary blends, sources of, 4·41as thickeners, 4·5, 7, 13, 19
example recipes for, 4·29, 31–37
starches (continued)modern, parametric recipe for, 4·30traditional, parametric recipe for,
4·28statins, heart disease and, 1·227statistical power, of nutritional studies,
1·220statistician, Gosset as, 4·251stators
in colloid mills, 2·413–414in rotor-stator homogenizer, 2·413
steaks. See also beefcooked, fats in, 1·233FDA Food Code on cooking, 1·174in frying pan, cutaway illustration of,
3·72–73vs. roasts, FDA Food Code on, 1·187
steam. See also autoclaves; bubbles; evaporation; steaming
blanching using, 2·267boiling and, 2·65, 68–69burns from, 1·319, 2·154condensing, heat transfer coe� cient
of, 1·283in deep-frying, 2·115, 116–117,
118–119, 125distillation, of essential oils, 2·318,
320as foaming gas, 4·254heat of vaporization of water and,
1·296low-temperature, use of term, 2·155in shallow frying, 2·127–128as water phase, 1·300zones of, 1·318
steam modein combi ovens, 2·167in CVap water-vapor oven, 2·158–159in ovens, pros and cons of, 2·155–156
steam wandsfoam forming with, 4·258to froth milk, 4·391
Steamed Blancmange, 4·296Steamed Cod with Cod Roe Velouté, 4·32Steamed Live Spot Prawn, 5·181, 183Steamed Sticky Rice, 5·113, 119steaming, 2·70–73. See also autoclaves;
steamboiling vs., 2·72–73chemistry of sweetness due to, 2·70cutaway illustration of, 2·72–73fog compared to, 2·71hot-packing canning and, 2·77as phase change, 1·290in Western and Asian cooking, 2·70
Steam’N’Hold vapor oven, 2·158stearic acid, 1·233, 234Steelhead Trout Con� t with Fennel
Salad, 3·106Stefan, Josef, 1·287Stefan-Boltzmann law, 1·285–286, 289Steingarten, Je� rey
biography of, 1·65on Chinese restaurant syndrome,
1·213on hypermodern cuisine, 1·57on oxalic acid in spinach, 3·267, 273Potato Puree recipe, 3·296
Stelvin screw top for wine, 4·344steric hindrance or resistance, 4·12sterilization, 1·148–149
in boiling-water canning, 2·79–80canning and, 2·76
sterilization (continued)modern con� t preparation and, 2·128pasteurization vs., 2·249–250in pressure-canning, 2·85, 88time to temperature using pressure-
canning for, 2·89Stewart Brothers Co� ee, 4·398stewing, 2·96–98. See also braising
cutaway illustration of, 2·96–97pot-roasting or braising vs., 2·93
sti� ness, gel selection and, 4·73Stir-Fried Fiddlehead Ferns, 5·113, 119stir-frying, 2·48–57. See also woks
bao technique for, 2·54–55burners for, 2·48, 52, 56–57chao technique for, 2·54, 56–57cutaway illustration of, 2·50–51,
56–57heat transfer in, 2·48seasoning woks or frying pans for,
2·53stirred baths, for sous vide cooking,
2·234stirring. See also magnetic stirring bar
boundary layer and, 1·283before poaching eggs, physics of, 2·67
Stock� eth’s method, for grooming espresso, 4·381
stocksaromatics for, 2·298brown
Brown Beef Stock, 2·301Brown Bu� er Fumet, 5·157, 158Brown Veal Stock, 2·300rich, parametric recipe for, 2·297Rich Brown Stock, 2·297
concentrating � avor of, 2·380cooling of, 1·206example recipes for, 2·300–301, 303� avor extraction for sauces and, 2·288freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,
2·451Onion Stock, 5·261, 264Paella Stock, 5·239, 240parametric recipe for, 2·296–298Pressure-Cooked White Chicken
Stock, 2·301pressure-cooking, 2·294–295
how to, 2·293Ramen Stock Powder, 2·455, 5·247shell� sh, parametric recipe for, 2·297Shell� sh Stock, 2·297size of ingredients and � avor of,
2·290–292sous vide
Sous Vide Fish Stock, 2·303Sous Vide Vegetable Stock, 2·303
vacuum � ltering of, 2·354white
parametric recipe for, 2·297White Stock, 2·297
stomachcharacteristics and cooking of,
3·142–143as sausage binder, 3·222
stove top. See also burnersbraising and pot-roasting using, 2·96how heat is lost from, 1·276hydrating thickeners on, 4·26for Modernist kitchen, 2·287pot on. See pots, on stovereductions, 2·346, 379
stove-top smokers, 2·146
straining, for � ltering, 2·351, 353strawberries
compressing, parametric recipe for, 3·390
dehydrating, parametric recipe for, 3·366
freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, 3·372
heat-treating, parametric recipe for, 3·359
impregnating, parametric recipe for, 3·390
Piquillo Pepper and Strawberry Salad, 5·277, 278
Pressure-Cooked Polenta with Strawberry Marinara, 4·50
Seared Strawberry, 5·277, 279Strawberry Consommé, 5·277, 278Strawberry Gazpacho, 5·277, 278Strawberry Milk Shake, 2·473, 5·11
strawberry chips, parametric recipe for, 3·328
stress, slaughterhouse practices and, 3·34stretching phase, in milk steaming,
4·391strong co� ee, brewing and, 4·364Stu� ed Clam, 5·229, 231Stu� ed Morels, 5·113, 117Stu� ed Smoky Braised Eggplant, 5·99Stupak, Alex
Aerated Co� ee Ice Cream recipe, 4·312
Pistachio Puree recipe, 2·427Whipped Cheese recipe, 4·272
sturgeoncooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·102Heather-Smoked Sturgeon, 5·233,
235Heather-Smoked Sturgeon Rille� es,
5·233, 235“Styrofoam” Cup and Lid, 5·247,
248–249Subijana, Pedro, Eggs Benedict recipe,
4·86sublimation
of aromatic compounds in frozen foods, 2·261
carbonating liquids and, 2·464critical temperature for freeze-
drying and, 2·446deposition vs., 1·329dry ice and, 1·326evaporative cooling due to, 2·446in freeze-drying, 1·328, 2·444, 3·365in freezers, 1·326heat of, 1·326of ice, 1·326solid transmission to gas as,
1·326–329of water, 1·326–329
subspecies, 1·132succulence, cooking meat and seafood
and, 3·83–84suckling pig
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·96, 109
Suckling Pig Shoulder with Shallot and Orange Sauce, 3·110
Sucro, for airs and froths, parametric recipe for, 4·264
sucrosecentrifuging and, 2·368
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 106 3/22/11 10:56:45 AM
I N D E X C V I I
TARGET CORE TEMPERATURE Tsucrose (continued)
for cold gels, parametric recipe for, 4·140
G� S criteria and, 1·254suction pump, vacuum � ltration and,
2·354Suet Mousseline, 5·5, 8sugar preserves, parametric recipe for,
3·349sugar syrup, cooking fruits or vegetables
sous vide in, 3·291sugar-glass foams
carbon dioxide for, 4·254Modernist cuisine and, 4·255
sugarsconverting grams to volumes for,
5·XXXVII–XXXVIIIdissolving in water, 1·296drying with, 2·430, 3·344for edible � lms, parametric recipe
for, 4·60freeze-drying and, 2·447freezing-point depression and, 1·305for juicing, 2·335organic food movement perception
of, 1·253production process for, 1·256re� ning process for, 1·254in sausage, 3·226for set foams, parametric recipe for,
4·288–289solids, as foam stabilizer, 4·257solubility in water of, 1·331, 332spheri� cation and, 4·184supersaturated solution of, 1·332for thick foams, parametric recipe
for, 4·278–279Sugimoto, Tagashi, Green Pea Yuba
recipe, 4·115sul� tes
drying plant foods with, 3·365fresh juice color and, 2·338intolerance to, 1·239
sulfur dioxide, cork taint in wine and, 4·348–349
Sullivan, Geneva, 4·399summer squash, cooking sous vide,
parametric recipe for, 3·289sunchokes
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·289
Jerusalem Artichoke Pudding, 4·31Pickled Jerusalem Artichokes, 5·125,
131puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425
Sunday Pork Belly plated-dish recipe, 5·101–105
sun� ower oil, chemistry of, 2·126Sunny-Side Up “Eggs,” 4·148–149sunny-side up eggs, process for, 4·74super methylcellulose (SMC), for
cellulose gum gels, parametric recipe for, 4·170, 171
supercooled liquids, 1·304how to supercool water and, 1·312
supercritical � uidscritical point and, 1·328extraction of
deca� einated co� ee and, 4·363� avor and, 2·320
as gas and liquid, 1·302–303supersaturated solutions, 1·332surface area, volume ratio to, 2·288
surface tensionof bubbles, 4·246of water, hydrogen bonds and, 1·296,
298surfactants
emulsi� ers as, 4·202as foaming agent, 4·244HLB values and, chemistry of, 4·204in oil used for deep-frying, 2·123for stabilizing emulsions, 4·214
Surger, in Guinness beer bo� les, 4·251surgical tweezers, for cooking, 1·197surimi, 3·251, 388susceptible populations
foodborne illnesses and, 1·174, 191warnings for, 1·178, 182
sushianisakid infections and, 1·122–123� ash-cooking, how to, 3·61nigiri, how to slice � sh for, 3·60tapeworms and, 1·124
suspending solids in gelled spheres, 4·187sustainable food
current buzz on, 1·248New American cuisine and, 1·28
Swatland, Howard, 3·44Swedish hospital food, sous vide
technology and, 1·40, 2·252, 265Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze, 5·43, 44sweet cure, basic, parametric recipe for,
3·169sweet Italian sausage, parametric recipe
for, 3·236–237Sweet Onion Salsa, 5·175, 177Sweet Pea and Young Ginger Fricassee,
5·273, 275Sweet Pea Clusters, 4·173Sweet Pea Fricassee plated-dish recipe,
5·272–275Sweet Pea Wafer, 3·371sweet peas. See green peasSweet Potato Fondant, 5·35, 39sweet potatoes
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·292
necrotizing enteritis and, 1·141Sweet Potato Fondant, 5·35, 39Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato
Chips, 4·287Sweet Spice Blend, 5·211, 212sweet spot or zone
of broilers, 2·18–19, 22–23of grills, 2·14–17roasting and, 2·32
sweet vinegar pickles, parametric recipe for, 3·349
Sweet-and-Sour Cipolline Onions, 5·17, 19
sweetbreadsbrining, parametric recipe for, 3·172characteristics and cooking of, 3·140cooking sous vide, 3·146
parametric recipe for, 3·146Crispy Sweetbreads, 3·150de� nition of, 5·32Sous Vide Sweetbreads, 5·31, 32Sweetbreads with Sour Mango
Powder and Shiitake, 3·151sweeteners. See also speci� c sweeteners
volumetric equivalents for amounts of, 5·XLIV
water content of, 5·XLI
sweetness, chemistry of steaming and, 2·70
Swiss cheese� e American Cheese Slice, 4·224scombroid poisoning and, 1·139
sword� sh, cooking temperature for, 3·83
Sybaris, Greece, culinary inventions protected in, 1·12, 13
syneresisfreeze � ltration and, 2·369, 370–371gel failure due to, 4·67modern thickeners and, 4·5thickener selection and, 4·15, 17
synergygelling agents and, 4·72thickeners and, 4·16
Synesso espresso machine, 4·372, 374, 375, 398, 400
Cyncra model of, 4·401Synsepalum dulci� cum, 2·465synthetic corks, for wine bo� les, 4·344,
345, 346syrups
converting grams to volumes for, 5·XXXVII
maple, grades of, 5·77Maple Vinegar Gastrique, 5·125, 128Miang Syrup, 5·189, 191sugar, cooking fruits or vegetables
sous vide in, 3·291White Grape Syrup, 4·52
Système International d’Unités, 1·272
Ttable salt. See salt (sodium chloride or
table salt)Taenia saginata, 1·124Taenia solium, 1·124Tagine Base, 5·135, 137Tailor, 1·67 tails, in distillation, 2·384Takazawa, Yoshiaki, 1·70
aesthetics of nature in dishes of, 4·37Talbot, H. Alexander
Aerated Gruyère and, 4·312agar for clarifying liquids and, 2·372on blanching sous vide, 3·293on browned solids from clari� ed
bu� er, 4·212chicken skin glued to scallops by,
3·252Compressed Melon Terrine recipe,
3·392on cooking whole chicken eggs, 4·75fast hot-spring eggs and, 4·78� sh skin pillows of, 3·131gel � ltration and, 2·369Goat Cheese Dumplings recipe,
4·105Ideas in Food blog and, 1·66, 67Modernist Béchamel and, 4·31Pasta Marinara recipe, 3·386Pulled Mushroom recipe, 3·396smoked eggs by, 4·100Whipped Yogurt Crisps recipe,
4·292tamago, example recipe for, 4·94tamarind
as acidi� er, 2·314Tamarind Paste, 5·43, 99Tamarind Puree, 5·281, 282
tampers, for espresso, 4·383–384tamping, of espresso porta� lters
considerations for, 4·383–384dosing and, 4·380how to, 4·382pressure-controlled, 4·398
tannic acid, acorn cooking by Native Americans and, 1·6
tannin, in red wine, reducing, 4·334tapenade, Seaweed Tapenade, 5·25, 27tapeworms, 1·124–125
contamination by, 1·120destruction of, 1·123types of, 1·124
tapiocaPickled Tapioca Pearl, 5·205, 207Pregelatinized Starch Paste, 4·29Uni with Whipped Tofu and
Tapioca, 4·285tapioca starch, 4·20, 21, 28, 68
source of, 3·376thickening with, parametric recipe
for, 4·28tapioca starch cracker
parametric recipe for, 4·302Tapioca Starch Cracker, 4·303
tarbais beans, Pressure-Cooked Tarbais Beans, 5·81, 83
target core temperatureholding food at, 2·247–249water bath ho� er than, 2·243–247water bath set to, 2·243–245
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 107 3/22/11 10:56:46 AM
C V I I I I N D E X
TARRAGON INFUSIONTtarragon infusion, parametric recipe for,
2·310tart, Onion tart, 5·261–265tartar sauce, Sea Urchin Tartar Sauce,
5·143, 145tartares, 3·62–69
example recipes for, 3·65–68tartaric acid
as acidi� er, 2·314for cold gels, parametric recipe for,
4·140for set foams, parametric recipe for,
4·288–289tastants
ethanol for extraction of, 2·320Maillard reaction and, 2·268
taste budsresearch on, 4·341sour-sensing, carbonation taste and,
2·465taste testing
of con� t, 2·129ratings and gold medals for wine
and, 4·338–339science of, 2·299triangle test for, 2·129, 4·334
how to set up, 4·336of wine, 4·330, 332, 334
Taubes, Gary, 1·236TCA (2,4,6-trichloroanisole), 4·348,
349TDS (total dissolved solids), brewing
control chart on, 4·367–368tea
Cryopoached Green Tea Sour, 4·291hot and cold, 4·176Hot and Cold Tea, 4·176, 182infusion of, parametric recipe for,
2·310Techamuanvivit, Pim, Pad � ai recipe,
3·385technoemotional cuisine, Adrià on
Modernist cuisine as, 1·37, 57temperature. See also energy; heat; low-
temperature cooking; radiation (radiant heat)
for Activa bonding, 3·252bacterial replication rates and,
1·142–143, 144during baking, 2·103, 106barbecue sous vide and, 3·216blowing on hot food and, physics of,
1·288of boiling water, 1·318. See also
boiling pointcarbonated liquids and, 2·464for co� ee brewing, 4·364, 368co� ee grind and, 4·376, 378co� ee roasting and, 4·360–361color indicators for, physics of, 1·291consistency in results and, 2·111controlling of, 1·270conversion tables, 5·XXXIV–XXXVcooked meat and seafood � avor and,
3·88–89for cooking, animals’ body
temperature and, 3·89core. See core temperaturecritical
bacterial replication rates and, 1·142–143
for freeze-drying, science of, 2·453freeze-drying and, 2·444, 446
temperature (continued)“danger zone,” 1·175–179de� ning, history of, 1·265de� nition of, 1·264dry-bulb. See dry-bulb temperaturefor drying with warm air, 2·432egg textures and, 4·76–77emulsi� er solubility and, 4·203for espresso-brewing, 4·372, 374
skill of choosing, 4·385factors in, 4·15for fat incorporation into sausage,
grinding and, 3·224FDA Food Code on, 1·174fermented sausage-making and,
3·246� avor of cooked meat and seafood
and, 3·88–89food safety rules based solely on,
1·174food safety rules on, 1·169fourth-power relationship of radiant
heat to, 1·285–286, 287for freeze-drying, 3·365freezing point and. See freezing
pointfor gelatin melting, 4·67–68for gelatinization, 4·22glass-transition, in freeze-drying,
1·329, 2·44, 444grinding fat to incorporate into
sausage and, 3·224for grinding meat, 3·230heat and, 1·264–271for heat-shocking, 3·358holding. See holding temperaturehydrocolloid hydration and, 4·38irreversible changes and, 1·268, 270lower, deep-frying with, 2·122lowering. See chilling; chilling water
baths; cook-chill sous vide methods; cooling; freezing; refrigeration; refrigerators
low-temperature cooking and. See low-temperature cooking; target core temperature
low-temperature steam mode andin combi ovens, 2·167in CVap water-vapor oven, 2·158,
159ovens using, 2·155
Maillard reaction and, 3·89–90management of, 1·95measuring, technology of, 1·269measuring during baking, 2·108for meat grinding, 3·230in Modernist Cuisine recipes, 1·96of oil for deep-frying, 2·116, 122,
123, 127for plant food cooking, 3·286plant food � avor and, 3·273resistance to change in, properties
of, 1·267scales for, 1·266, 285–286serving
brewed co� ee and, 4·364gel selection and, 4·73thickener selection and, 4·14–15
for slicing raw meat, 3·50for smoking, 2·132, 140–141, 3·208,
211chemistry of, 2·135
sous vide cooking and, 2·230–231
temperature (continued)speci� c heat and, 1·267–268spray-drying and, 2·438in steak frying, 3·72–73time and
bacterial death and, 1·148, 150–151noroviruses and, 1·154
for vacuum packing, 2·214viscosity and, 4·6wet-bulb. See wet-bulb temperaturefor wine storage, 4·345–346for wok burners, 2·52
“� e Ten Commandments of Nouvelle Cuisine,” 1·26, 27
tender cuts of meatcollagen and, 3·10, 70, 76, 81cooking sous vide
best bets for, 3·96example recipes for, 3·97–98parametric recipes for, 3·96
medium-tender, from primal cuts, 3·44
muscles and, 3·6contraction of, 3·8–9
plated-dish recipes for, 5·3–39very tender, from primal cuts, 3·44
tender cuts of poultrycooking sous vide
example recipes for, 3·100–101parametric recipes for, 3·99
Pigeon with Shell� sh Bu� er, 3·100–101
tender � sh, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·102
tender greens, freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, 2·451
Tenderay process for dry-aging meat, 3·41, 78
tenderizers, Jaccard. See Jaccard tenderizers
tenderizingwith acid, 3·192–193equipment for, 2·286
blade tenderizing and, 3·51. See also Jaccard tenderizers
for Modernist kitchen, 2·286FDA Food Code time and
temperature for, 1·176mechanical, of meat, 3·50–51
food safety and, 1·191foodborne illnesses and, 1·176muscle structure and, 3·10
multiple water baths and, 2·247–249with penetrating meat tenderizers,
hazards of, 1·176tenderloin, cooking sous vide, 2·248tepid-water baths, thawing using, 2·263Terranova decipens, 1·122–123terrines
Compressed Melon Terrine, 3·392Hot Applesauce Terrine, 5·101, 103terrine de foie gras, Pralus,
Troisgros and, 1·41, 42terroir, wine and, 4·322–325tetradecahedron, foam geometry as,
4·246tetrasodium pyrophosphate, myosin
extraction for sausage and, 3·223Texturas, sources of, 1·35texture
cook-chill sous vide method and, 2·252
deep-frying and, 2·122, 124, 125, 127
texture (continued)of eggs, temperature and, 4·76–77of foams, expanding by drying and,
2·433freezing and, 1·304, 2·256gelling with hydrocolloids and, 4·124holding at target temperature and,
2·242, 247–248hydrocolloid-texture combinations,
overview of, 4·VIImarinades and, 3·190oven humidity and, 2·153of pasta dough, 3·378of plant foods, modifying, 3·374–401progressive smoking and, 2·148searing a� er sous vide cooking and,
2·268smoking and, 2·138, 140, 141, 143sous vide preparation and, 2·195,
197, 198sterilization for canning and, 2·76thawing and, 1·313vacuum packing and, 2·213, 221water bath ho� er than target
temperature and, 2·245� ai chicken sausage, parametric recipe
for, 3·236–237� ai Crab Miang plated-dish recipe,
5·189–191� ai stock, parametric recipe for,
2·296–297� anksgiving Turkey Gravy, 4·33thawing
cooking directly from frozen vs., 1·313, 2·258, 262, 263
debate on, 1·313heat conduction in ice and, 1·311strategies for, 2·263timing for, 2·264
� e Curious Cook (McGee), 1·43� e � eory of the Avant-Garde (Poggioli),
1·18thermal conductivity, heat transfer
e� ciency and, 1·277thermal death curves
for bacteria, 1·149, 150–151FDA assumptions on, 1·182–189
thermal inactivation curves, for viruses, 1·153
thermistor, technology of, 1·269thermocouples
of freeze dryers, 2·446technology and types of, 1·269for testing pressure-canning process,
2·88thermo-irreversible gels
gel selection and, 4·70, 73set foams as, 4·244
thermometersaccuracy by type of, 1·269accuracy issues with, 1·206–207digital. See digital thermometersinfrared, 1·269, 2·286low-temperature cooking and, 1·205for Modernist kitchen, 2·286
� ermomixdispersing thickeners with, 4·24, 25hydrating thickeners with, 4·26
thermo-reversible gelsgel selection and, 4·70, 73methylcellulose for, 4·127
thermos bo� les, for sous vide cooking, 2·241
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 108 3/22/11 10:56:46 AM
I N D E X C I X
TROTTER, CHARLIE Tthermostats
calibration of, 2·112of conventional ovens, 2·111of sous vide cookers, 2·230–231
thick foams, 4·278–287best bets for, 4·278example recipes for, 4·280–287,
5·193parametric recipe for, 4·278–279
thick foodcryogenic freezing and, 1·308, 310frozen, thawing of, 1·311
thickened hot and cold liquids, parametric recipe for, 4·46–47
� ickened Oil, 4·230thickeners, 4·3–63. See also thickening
dispersing, how to, 4·24emulsion stability and, 4·202, 204emulsion viscosity and, 4·205� avor release and, 4·10–11foam stabilizing with, 4·245hydrating, how to, 4·26measuring, how to, 4·23mouthfeel and, 4·6, 10for oil, 4·13proprietary blends, sources of, 4·41starches as, 4·20–37traditional, 4·7viscosity and, 4·3–4
technology of measuring, 4·8thickening. See also thickeners
chemistry of, 4·71common problems with, 4·27emulsi� cation for, 4·205methods for, 4·12–13modern methods of, 4·18–19of sauces, jus, and glazes, 2·346strategies for, 4·14–19
� is, Hervébiography of, 1·46Chocolate Chantilly recipe, 4·281Erice Conferences and, 1·44, 45food science and, 1·52hot spring eggs and, 4·75liquid nitrogen and, 1·61–62, 65on molecular gastronomy, 1·46,
47–48Pickled Quail Eggs recipe, 4·83Steingarten on, 1·65
� omas, Dave, innovations of, 1·21, 22� omas, Elizabeth Cawdry, 1·44–45� ompson, Bradford, Preserved
Lemons recipe, 3·350� ompson, David
miang kham of, 5·189� ai chicken sausage and, 3·236–237
thyme, antimicrobial properties of wine and, 1·145
thyme extract, parametric recipe for, 2·326
thymol, as antimicrobial compound, 1·145
thymus gland, 5·32. See also sweetbreadscharacteristics and cooking of, 3·140
TIC Gums, 4·40Tierno, Philip, 1·196, 200tigernuts
Horchata (Chufa Milk), 4·59Horchata Foam, 5·239, 244
tilapia, Microwaved Tilapia with Scallions and Ginger, 3·115
Tim Wendleboe, 4·396, 400
timefor brining, 3·156FDA Food Code omission from
standards of, 1·174for plant food cooking, 3·286power as unit of, 1·272–273temperature and
bacterial death and, 1·148, 150–151FDA Food Code errors in, 1·183noroviruses and, 1·154
tincturesbest bets for using, 2·325� avors in, 2·320
TMAO (trimethylamine oxide), 3·43, 87Toasted Almond Milk, 4·59Toasted Garlic Chips, 5·5, 9Toasted Oat Jus, 5·126, 133Toasted Rice Milk, 4·59toasting spices, 5·94Toddy system, for cold-extraction
co� ee, 4·370tofu
Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa, 4·121Firm Tofu, 4·112Instant Tofu Noodles, 4·172parametric recipe for, 4·104Peanut “Tofu,” 4·122as protein gel, 4·102Sea Urchin Tofu, Tokyo Negi,
Sesame, Ponzu, 5·197, 202Silken Tofu, 4·113Uni with Whipped Tofu and
Tapioca, 4·285tofu gels, example recipes for,
4·112–113, 115, 121Tom Yum Broth, 2·309tomato chips, parametric recipe for, 3·328tomatoes. See also green tomatoes
as acidi� er, 2·314Chili Tomato Spice Blend, 2·403Compressed Tomato, 5·11, 15compressing, parametric recipe for,
3·390cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·290freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,
3·372heat-treating, parametric recipe for,
3·359impregnating, parametric recipe for,
3·390introduction and acceptability of,
1·14, 16Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin,
4·175Pasta Marinara, 3·386pH level and canning method for, 2·76preserving, parametric recipe for,
3·348Pressure-Cooked Polenta with
Strawberry Marinara, 4·50sauces from fresh vs. canned, 3·276Tomato Con� t, 5·11, 55, 60, 62, 67Tomato Powder, 3·312Tomato Spheres with Basil Oil, 4·192Tomato Vinegar Foam, 5·60, 65Tomato Water, 2·366, 5·5, 60Tomato Whey Broth, 4·49
tongue (animal). See also speci� c animalscharacteristics and cooking of,
3·140–141tongue (human), taste regions of, 2·465,
4·341
tools. See also speci� c toolsclassic, 2·287cu� ing, for frying fruits and
vegetables, 3·326–327for emulsions, 4·208handy special-purpose, 2·285inexpensive but valuable, 2·286for meat chopping, grinding, or
cu� ing, 3·230–233must-have, 2·284technology and, 2·283, 286
torches. See blow torching and blowtorches
total dissolved solids (TDS), brewing control chart on, 4·366–367
Tough, Dana, Modernist raviolo al’uovo of, 4·190
tough cuts of meatcollagen and, 3·10–11, 70, 76, 81cooking sous vide, best bets for, 3·109example recipes for, 3·110, 111, 114muscles and, 3·6
contraction of, 3·8–9parametric recipes for, 3·109plated-dish recipes for, 5·41–105pressure-cooking for quick results,
how to, 3·114from primal cuts, 3·44sous vide cooking of, 3·95succulence of, 3·84
tough cuts of poultry, parametric recipes for, 3·108
tough � sh, example recipes for, 3·115tough shell� sh
best bets for, 3·108example recipes for, 3·112, 113parametric recipes for, 3·108
Toulousain Garlic Sausage, 5·81, 82Toulouse goose, foie gras production in,
3·138Tower, Jeremiah, New American
cuisine and, 1·28toxins
bacterial, 1·134–135in cassava, 3·262chemistry of, 1·248in distilled essences, 2·391historical cooking and, 1·6natural, 1·249organically grown food and, 1·245in plants, 3·267
as self-defense, 3·266in reused deep-frying oil, 2·124, 125in seeds, 3·262
Toxoplasma gondiifoodborne illnesses in U.S. and,
1·111, 126–127human infections from, 1·128life cycle of, 1·127misconceptions about, 1·118psychological conditions due to, 1·127
trade, long-distance, civilization and, 1·7trade secrets, history of, 1·76traditional cooking, 2·2–149
baking and, 2·100–113boiling and, 2·62–69broiling and, 2·18–27canning and, 2·74–91covered sautéing and, 2·58–61grilling and, 2·6–17Myhrvold on writing about, 1·84–85myth of, 1·14–16in oil, 2·114–131
traditional cooking (continued)panfrying a la plancha and, 2·36–43pot-roasting and stewing and,
2·92–99roasting and, 2·28–35sautéing and, 2·44–47smoking and, 2·132–149steaming and, 2·70–73stir-frying and, 2·48–57
traditional plant foods, internationalization of, 3·268
Traeger smoker, 2·147Tragancanth Importing Company, 4·40Tramonto, Rick, Tro� er and, 1·69trans fat, 1·222, 224, 230–231transglutaminase. See also Activa
as coagulating enzyme, 4·70description of, 3·250–251gelling with, best bets for, 4·116–117
transglutaminase gels, parametric recipe for, 4·116
traveler’s diarrhea, 1·129trehalose, as bulking agent with spray-
dried powders, 2·442trematodes, 1·123–124
disease caused by, 1·120liver � ukes, 1·123–124salmon-poisoning � uke, 1·124
trials. See double-blind trials; randomized clinical trials
Trials of Hypertension I and II, 1·234triangle tests
how to set up, 4·336for taste testing, 2·129of wine, 4·334
Trichinella spiraliscontamination of meat by,
1·117–118, 120–122, 179as � esh-dwelling parasite, 1·174invasive infection by, 1·120–121misconceptions about, 1·179overstated risk of exposure to, 1·170
trichinellosiscommon misconceptions about,
1·117–118, 121–122deaths due to, 1·113as disease name, 1·119
triglycerides, 1·222Trillin, Calvin, 1·28trimethylamine oxide (TMAO), 3·43, 87tripe
characteristics and cooking of, 3·141–143
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·146
as sausage binder, 3·222texture of, 3·137
Triple Dungeness Crab and Pork Stock Infusion, 5·253, 254
triple pointphase changes and, 1·326in phase diagrams, 1·302–303
triple stocks, 2·290Troisgros, Jean-Baptiste, 1·25Troisgros, Michel, 1·25
Cocoa Nib Curd recipe, 4·105Troisgros, Pierre and Jean, 1·25, 41, 73trompe l’oeil dishes, 3·388–401Tro� er, Charlie
� ne cuisine in Chicago and, 1·69New American cuisine and, 1·28, 29Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion
and Water Chestnuts recipe, 3·101
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 109 3/22/11 10:56:46 AM
C X I N D E X
TROUTTtrout
blue, science of, 3·40cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·102diet and � esh color of, 3·93Steelhead Trout Con� t with Fennel
Salad, 3·106Tru, 1·69tru� es
Black Tru� e Concentrate, 2·427, 5·216
Cromesquis, 3·340faux
Dacosta on, 2·459Frozen White “Tru� e,” 3·400–401
Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and Tru� e Puree, 4·114
Pecorino with Tru� e Honey on Cedar, 4·101
preserving freshness of, 2·470smelling, science of, 4·350storing with dry ice or gas-� ushing
vacuum sealer, 2·471Tru� e Jus, 4·53Venison Loin Rossini, 3·98
truite au bleu, science of, 3·40tubers. See also speci� c tubers
gelling agents from, 4·126Horchata drinks from, 4·59
tuiles, Soccarat Tuile, 5·239, 245tularemia, 1·138tulip pa� ern, for ca� è la� es, 4·395Tully’s, 4·398tumblers, vacuum, 2·285, 3·158,
166–167, 175tumbling meat, 3·50–51tuna
Adrià’s use of intervertebral pads of, 1·36
albacore, about, 5·176bigeye, as alternative to blue� n, 3·55blocking, 3·54–55blue� n. See blue� n tunaBroiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier
Bu� er, 4·220cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·102cooking temperature for, 3·83cu� ing, 3·52red and fa� y � esh of, biology of, 3·21Tuna and Escolar Checkerboard,
5·175, 176Tuna Ribbons with Ginger
Marmalade, 3·202yellow� n, about, 5·176
tuna bo� arga, in Sea Urchin Bo� arga, 5·226
TurboChef microwave and convection oven, 2·189
turbotaging e� ects on, 3·40cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·102Turbot with Onion and Marrow
Broth, 3·105turkey
baked, cutaway illustration of, 2·104–105
brining, parametric recipe for, 3·172Clostridium per� ingens-
contaminated, 1·139, 141cooked, pink color in, 3·94
turkey (continued)cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·99, 108fast-twitch vs. slow-twitch muscle in,
3·12Turkey Wing, 4·33
Turkey & Gravy seasonal � avor, 4·33Turner, Joseph Mallord William, 1·33turnips
Braised Turnips with Sa� ron, 5·121, 123
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·289, 290, 292
preserving, parametric recipe for, 3·348
Root Vegetable Jus, 5·161, 163Root Vegetable Riso� o, 3·309in Sauerkraut, 3·351Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 5·49, 53Sous Vide Turnip, 5·31, 33
tweezers, surgical, for cooking, 1·19712D drop, in bacteria for sanitizing
food, 1·148, 149Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghe� o, 4·143Tyndall e� ect, 4·72, 203
UU.K. Institute of Food Research, 1·147ullage
wine corks and, 4·344wine storage temperature and, 4·345
ultracold deep freezers, sous vide cooking and, 2·259
Ultracrisp Chicken Crown, 3·134–135ultrahigh-pressure homogenizers
for Modernist kitchen, 2·284for reducing particle size, 2·398, 400for wet-grinding, 2·414, 422–423
ultrasonic bathsfor extracting and infusing � avors,
2·251for kitchen hygiene, 1·204for Modernist kitchen, 2·285
Ultrasonic Fries, 3·325, 5·11ultrasonic homogenizers
breaking down food with, 2·400emulsifying with, 4·208foam forming with, 4·252freezing clear cubes of ice with, 1·333wet-grinding with, 2·414–415
Ultra-Sperse 3, thickening with, 4·22, 30parametric recipe for, 4·30
Ultra-Sperse 5, for thick foams, parametric recipe for, 4·278–279
Ultrastable Beurre Blanc, 4·219Ultra-Tex 8, thickening with, 4·22, 30
parametric recipe for, 4·30ultraviolet radiation
heat and emission of, 1·287to kill bacteria, 1·149prions and, 1·157for purifying water, 1·335ultraviolet light kits for sterilizing
and, 1·205ultraviolet lotion or powder and,
hand washing and, 1·201umami brine, parametric recipe for, 3·168umami � avor
MSG and, 3·160ripening cured meat or seafood and,
3·167Umami Seasoning Fluid Gel, 4·183uncooked foods. See raw foods; speci� c
foodsUnder Pressure (Keller), 1·73, 83Uni with Whipped Tofu and Tapioca,
4·285United Kingdom. See also England
mad cow disease in, 1·156, 160Nouvelle cuisine in, 1·28Roux and sous vide cooking in, 1·41
United StatesCerti� ed Angus Beef in, 3·39laws of. See also U.S. Food and Drug
Administrationon advertising and label health
claims, 1·214on distillation, 1·94, 2·384, 391on food safety, 1·165, 190local, for laboratory equipment, 1·94
Modernist cuisine in, 1·67Nouvelle cuisine in, 1·27regional barbecue specialties in,
3·218–219unsaturated fat, 1·222
unsaturated oils, � avor of saturated oils vs., 2·126
urban populations, civilization and, 1·7U.S. Centers for Disease Control and
Prevention (CDC)on E. coli O157:H7 outbreak of 2006,
1·172on foodborne illness, 1·110–111, 113on foods associated with Salmonella,
1·180on Giardia intestinalis infections, 1·126on peanut or tree nut allergies, 1·238on Toxoplasma gondii infections, 1·126
U.S. Code of Federal Regulations, 1·179, 181
U.S. Department of Agriculture. See also U.S. Food Safety and Inspection Service
Agricultural Research Service, 1·180–181
on BSE testing, 1·160canning guidelines of, 2·79–80on essences for food, 2·324food and agricultural scienti� c
research by, 1·48maximum concentrations of curing
salts permi� ed by, 3·161meat inspection stamp of, 3·39meat-grading system of, 3·35–36, 39on nitrates and nitrites in cured
foods, 3·160Pathogen Modeling Program of, 1·147slaughterhouse inspector
regulations, 3·35U.S. Food and Drug Administration
(FDA)on BSE contamination, 1·160consumer web site on cooking pork,
1·179on cooking pork vs. beef, 1·170–171on cooking times and temperatures,
speci� c, 1·184–185E. coli O157:H7 outbreak of 2006
and, 1·172food additives banned by, 1·252Food Code of. See FDA Food Codeon foodborne giardiasis, 1·127on freezing raw foods, time-and-
temperature standards for, 1·186on histamine poisoning, 1·139on killing anisakids, 1·123on killing trichina worms, 1·121on Modernist ingredients, 1·254on nisin as food additive, 1·144on roasting whole-meats roasts, oven
temperatures for, 1·186on sous vide cooking and storage,
time-and-temperature standards for, 1·186
time-and-temperature curves of, 1·187on Yersinia enterocolitica
transmission, 1·117U.S. Food Safety and Inspection
Service (FSIS)on chicken cooking times, 1·181on pork cooking times, 1·179Salmonella reduction standards of,
1·168on thin roasts vs. thick steaks, 1·187
U.S. National Institutes of Health, 1·215U.S. National Toxicology Program, 1·220U.S. Patent and Trademark O� ce, 1·71
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 110 3/22/11 10:56:47 AM
I N D E X C X I
VINDALOO CURRY VVvacuoles, of plant foods
cooking and, 3·273enzymes and, 3·283vacuum compression and, 2·213
vacuumde� nition of, 2·212freezing liquid nitrogen in, 1·324liquid in, physics of, 2·215sealing jars in canning and, 2·77
vacuum chambers. See also chamber sealers
foam forming with, 4·255, 258, 260, 310–315
vacuum co� ee brewer, 4·369vacuum compression
physics of, 2·213for plant food cooking, 3·286using chamber sealers, 2·214
vacuum concentrators, 2·285, 379, 380vacuum condensers, essential oils and,
2·320vacuum desiccators
drying plant foods with, 3·365features of, 2·433, 436–437foam forming with, 4·310for Modernist kitchen, 2·286
vacuum distillation, 2·380. See also rotary evaporators
vacuum dryers, 2·430, 433, 436–437vacuum evaporation
for concentrating � avor, 2·380for reducing sauces, jus, or glazes,
2·346of wine, 4·330
vacuum � ltering, 2·286, 4·352–358description of, 2·352, 358,
4·353–354equipment for, 2·286, 356–357how to, 2·357of wine, 4·344
vacuum frying, 2·128vacuum in� ation, foam forming with,
4·252, 254, 310vacuum jars, 2·286vacuum ovens, 2·433, 4·310vacuum packing, 2·208–227. See also
sous videfor Activa bonding, 3·252boiling not crushing during, 2·213chamber sealers for, 2·214–221compression in, physics of, 2·213containers for, 2·210–211dehydration and, 1·328edge sealers for, 2·222–224freeze-drying and, 2·447freezing food and, 2·256freezing in liquid nitrogen a� er,
2·258ice-brine freezing and, 1·310impulse sealers for, 2·225mechanism of action, 2·212of plant foods, cooking and, 3·286rigid containers for, 2·226–227of sausage mix before stu� ng, 3·227,
230searing before, 2·268of tru� es, 2·471uses of, 2·208–209
vacuum pressure, 2·391, 447
vacuum pumps, 2·356membrane-type
� ltration with, 2·354, 357for Modernist kitchen, 2·284vacuum reduction using, 2·380, 381
vacuum reductionfor concentrating � avor, 2·379, 4·11freezing clear cubes of ice with, 1·333low-cost, 2·380–383with rotary evaporators, 2·391technique for, 2·381thickening with, 4·11
vacuum tumblers, 2·285, 3·158, 166–167, 175
vacuum-assisted aeration, 2·214vacuum-assisted cooling
evaporation and, 1·321phase changes in, 1·290
vacuum-assisted drying, 1·321, 2·215. See also vacuum-drying
Vacuum-Concentrated Apple and Cabbage Juice, 2·389
vacuum-drying, 2·430, 433, 436–437. See also vacuum-assisted drying
vacuum-sealed individual portions, 2·199, 201
vacuum-sealing, compressing and impregnating produce by, 3·390–391
vacuum-set foams, 4·310–315example recipes for, 4·311–313
Valazza, Luisa Marelli, 1·28Valdre, Ugo, 1·44–45van Leeuwenhoek, Antony, 1·107, 128vanilla extract, parametric recipe for,
2·326vanilla infusion, parametric recipe for,
2·310Vanilla Olive Oil Powder, 4·35vapor, gas vs., 1·300vapor pressure, 1·314, 326vaporization, 1·314–325. See also
evaporationheat of, 1·296. See also latent heat of
vaporizationLa Varenne, École de, 4·322–325La Varenne, François Pierre de
as chef to French ruling class, 1·8, 9French cuisine and, 1·19innovations of, 1·20
variant Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease (vCJD), 1·159, 160, 161
variety meats. See innardsVarvary, 1·70vat pasteurization, 1·188veal. See also oxtail
Braised Veal Foreshank, 5·60, 62Brown Veal Stock, 2·300cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·96, 109primal cuts of, 3·44Sous Vide and Pressure-Cooked
Veal Breast with Bulbous Vegetables, 3·111
veal heart, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·146
veal knuckle and neck bones, Brown Veal Stock, 2·300
veal liver, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·146
veal marrowbonesBone Marrow Custard, 5·60, 63Turbot with Onion and Marrow
Broth, 3·105
veal stock, parametric recipe for, 2·296–298
veal sweetbreadscooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·146Crispy Sweetbreads, 3·150Sweetbreads with Sour Mango
Powder and Shiitake, 3·151veal tongue
brining, parametric recipe for, 3·172cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·146Sous Vide Veal Tongue, 5·49, 50
vegetable chipsexample recipes for, 3·328–330fried, best bets for, 3·328parametric recipe for, 3·328–329
vegetable gels, hot, parametric recipe for, 4·164–165
vegetable glue, 3·392vegetable jus, parametric recipe for,
2·344–345vegetable sheeters, Japanese, 3·326vegetable slicers, rotary, Japanese, 3·327vegetable stock, parametric recipe for,
2·296–297vegetables. See also speci� c vegetables
Allium, Maillard reaction and, 3·90blanching, 2·269boiling and � xing color of, 2·63, 66classi� cation of, 3·262colorectal cancer risk and, 1·214–215compressed and impregnated,
example recipes for, 3·395–401Compressed Dill Pickled Vegetables,
5·55, 58cooked, seasonal mélanges of, 3·294cooking sous vide
with fat, best bets for, 3·292with fat, parametric recipe for, 3·292of heat-sensitive vegetables, best
bets for, 3·292parametric recipe for, 3·288,
289–290, 292for puree, best bets for, 3·290until tender, best bets for, 3·289
covered sautéing of, 2·58, 60–61cruciferous. See also speci� c vegetables
blanching, 2·214cut size for stock, 2·290–291cu� ing tools for frying, 3·326–327dehydrating
best bets for, 3·366example recipes for, 3·368–369, 371parametric recipe for, 3·366–367
FDA standards and, 1·189freeze-drying
best bets for, 3·372example recipes for, 3·373, 5·261parametric recipe for, 2·451, 3·372
heat-sensitive, cooking sous videbest bets for, 3·292parametric recipe for, 3·292
heat-shocking, 3·358microwaving, best bets for, 3·311multistep deep-frying of, 2·122plated-dish recipes for, 5·259–275,
281–283preserving, best bets for, 3·348purees of
best bets for, 2·425example recipes for, 2·426–427,
5·5, 216
vegetables (continued)mechanics of, 3·279parametric recipe for, 2·424–425
Ramen Vegetables, 2·455, 5·247raw, seasonal mélanges of, 3·294smoked, example recipe for, 3·363Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 5·49, 53Sous Vide Vegetable Jus, 2·347Sous Vide Vegetable Stock, 2·303Vegetable Coals, 3·395volumetric equivalents for amounts
of, 5·XLIV–XLVwater content of, 5·XLIWok-Fried Malaysian Vegetables,
5·169vegetarian dishes simulating meats,
3·388vegetarianism, 1·244Velveeta cheese, 4·222venison. See also deer
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·96
in Cured Beef Tenderloin “Bresaola Style,” 3·185
Venison Loin Rossini, 3·98ventilation hoods, HEPA (High
E� ciency Particulate Air), 1·205venting, pressure cookers or pressure
canners, 2·86–87verbena, Halibut in Verbena Bubble,
4·156–157Verdun, Pierre, 2·412verjus
as acidi� er, 2·314Constructed Red Wine Glaze, 5·219,
221Versawhip, 4·244
for thick foams, parametric recipe for, 4·278–279
very-low-density lipoprotein (VLDL), 1·226
Veyrat, MarcCitrus Air recipe, 4·265Halibut in Verbena Bubble recipe,
4·156–157homemade sodas by, 4·239Modernist cuisine and, 1·64Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino
recipe, 4·275Nouvelle cuisine and individuality
of, 1·27, 39–40Tru� e Jus recipe, 4·53
vibrator tray, for espresso tamping, 4·380Vibrio cholerae, 1·132, 134, 135, 145vicinal water
drying with warm air and, 2·432food drying and, 2·428freeze-drying and, 2·444, 447pu� ng skin and, 3·122, 123
Victrola Co� ee, 4·375, 396, 398, 401vin jaune du Jura
Sauce Vin Jaune, 5·113, 116Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune
Sabayon, 3·363vinaigre� es, 4·230–231
Cherry Vinaigre� e, 5·267, 270Invincible Vinaigre� e, 4·231Mustard Vinaigre� e, 4·231Passion Fruit-White Soy Sauce
Vinaigre� e, 5·181, 183Vinay, Jean-Paul, as elBulli chef, 1·33, 34Vindaloo Curry, 5·90. See also Goan
Curry
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 111 3/22/11 10:56:47 AM
C X I I I N D E X
VINEGARVvinegar
as acidi� er, 2·314, 315eggs marinated in, 4·75Elder Flower Vinegar, 2·315Maple Vinegar Gastrique, 5·125, 128osmanthus, 5·172Oysters with Mignone� e Air, 4·265production process for, 1·256Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion
and Water Chestnuts, 3·101Seaweed Vinegar, 2·315Sherry Gel Cube, 5·267, 270vinegar-coagulated egg and,
parametric recipe for, 4·82virions, 1·154virtual cooking experiments. See
computer simulation modelsviruses, 1·152–156
alcohol sanitizers and, 1·200as foodborne pathogens, 1·109, 111,
113hepatitis, 1·155names for, 1·112noroviruses, 1·153–154reproduction of, 1·152–153rotaviruses, 1·155spreading, mathematics of, 1·153
viscometers, 4·6, 8, 10viscosity
of common liquids, 4·8controlling, options for, 4·16emulsions and, 4·204–205extreme, of solid that drips, 4·9measuring, technology of, 4·8shear forces in � uids and, 4·5–6thickeners and, 4·10
selection of, 4·15vitamin A, 1·235vitamin C
as acidi� er, 2·314aging braises and pot roasts and,
2·98browning reaction in plants and,
3·283health bene� ts of, 1·235natural vs. synthetic, 1·254–255nitrates in cured meats and, 1·143to slow plant juice browning, 2·338
vitamin E, 1·143, 235vitamin supplements, debate on, 1·235viticulture, 1·7, 4·329–331Vitis labrusca, 4·327Vitis vinifera, 4·327, 328–329Vives, Joachim, 4·184vodka
Buddha’s Hand Vodka, 2·389co� ee brewing in, 4·371Fines Herbes Extract, 2·327House Bi� ers, 2·327Modernist Fried Chicken, 3·337
volatilesevaporated, wineglass shapes and,
4·325in roasted co� ee, 4·361vacuum-drying and removal of,
2·433volume
equivalents for amounts of typical foods, 5·XLIV–XLV
surface area ratio to, 2·288Vongerichten, Jean-Georges
eating experience and career of, 1·49Green Asparagus and Morels with
Asparagus Jus recipe, 2·341homemade sodas by, 4·239molten chocolate cake by, 1·15New International cuisine and, 1·30,
52restaurants of, 1·31Spiced Chili Oil recipe, 2·330Sweetbreads with Sour Mango
Powder and Shiitake recipe, 3·151Tuna Ribbons with Ginger
Marmalade recipe, 3·202vegetable juices, oil infusions, and
vinaigre� es of, 1·35Vovito Ca� è, 4·396, 401Vytorin, heart disease and, 1·227
Wwafers
dehydrating formula for, 3·367Sweet Pea Wafer, 3·371
Wagyu beefcalpastatin in Brahman ca� le vs.,
3·76marbling in, 3·19, 36richness of, 5·57shimofuri, fat content of, 3·84
Wakuda, Tetsuya, Steelhead Trout Con� t with Fennel Salad recipe, 3·106
Walnut Clam Marmalade, 5·229, 230Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesto Salad,
4·53Warner, Ezra, 2·75Warner, K. F., 3·77Warner-Bratzler tenderometer, science
of estimating tenderness with, 3·77water, 1·292–335. See also evaporation;
humidity; moisture; water activityin body, kidneys and volume of,
3·141boiling point of
relative humidity and, 2·163vacuum pressure vs., 2·391
bo� led, as pure water, 1·335bound, dehydration and, 1·321for brining, 3·158carbonated, carbon dioxide and,
4·254physics of, 1·334
changing states of, energy of, 1·300–303
chemistry of, 1·298color and texture of cooking plant
foods and, 3·274–275in common foods, 1·294–295condensation of, 1·314–325deionized, 1·335
espresso-making and, 4·384hydrating ion-coagulated gels and,
4·124, 125for plant food cooking, 3·278
deposition of, 1·329energy and heating of, 1·300in ethanol, solubility of, 1·332food content of, 1·294–295free
as measure of dryness, 2·428rehydration and, 1·321
freezing. See freezinghard
dissolved minerals and, 1·335espresso-making and, 4·384hydration of ion-coagulated gels
with, 4·124plant food cooking and, 3·278
hydrogen bonds in alcohol vs., 1·314Maillard reaction and, 3·90phase changes in, 1·290phase diagrams, how to read,
1·302–303physics of, Myhrvold on writing
about, 1·84in plant foods, 3·273, 276, 278properties and behavior of, 1·296puri� cation of, reverse osmosis and,
2·397purity of, 1·335
water (continued)quality of, 1·335
for espresso, 4·384in raw foods, weight of, 3·79, 83in rehydrated freeze-dried foods,
3·365rotary evaporator mix of ethanol
and, 2·384, 390sausage binding and, 3·223sausage grinding and, 3·230in skin, 3·116as solvent, 1·330–333sublimation of, 1·326–329supercool, how to, 1·312thawing and, 1·311, 313unsafe for drinking, 1·110, 129vaporization of, 1·314–325vicinal
drying with warm air and, 2·432food drying and, 2·428freeze-drying and, 2·444, 447pu� ng skin and, 3·122, 123
viscosity of blood vs., 4·6as viscosity reference, 4·6water baths and. See water bathswet-curing vs. dry-curing and, 3·160,
162water activity
bacterial reproduction and, 1·144equilibrium relative humidity and,
2·430as free water measure, 2·428physics of, 1·307
water and bleach solutiondrying with warm air and, 2·433for kitchen cleansing, 1·200, 204
water baths. See also holding temperature; ice-brine baths; ice-water baths
baking using, 2·106boiling using, 2·63boundary layer disruption in, 1·283calibrating internal thermometer of,
2·230chilling
equipment for, 2·285technology of, 2·238
circulation control in, 2·234–235e� ciency of, 1·274egg emulsions and, 4·226frozen food cooking in, 2·262heat transfer coe� cient of, 1·283holding at speci� c temperature in,
2·247–249homemade and improvised,
2·240–241hot, for blanching, 2·267ho� er than target temperature,
2·243–247hydrating thickeners in, 4·26for Modernist kitchen, 2·284multiple
at di� erent temperatures, 2·244, 247
how to cook in, 2·248–249pasteurizing for storage using,
2·249–250programmable heating/chilling and,
2·255selection criteria for, 2·236–237for sous vide cooking, 2·198–199,
232, 234at target core temperature, 2·243–247
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 112 3/22/11 10:56:47 AM
I N D E X C X I I I
WOMEN’S HEALTH INITIATIVE STUDYWwater baths (continued)
warm, thawing using, 2·263water chestnuts, Quail with Apple-
Vinegar Emulsion and Water Chestnuts, 3·101
Water Cube, at Beijing National Aquatics Center, 4·246
water faucet handles, personal hygiene and, 1·200
water so� eners, ion-exchange � lters as, 1·335
water vapor. See also evaporation; humidity; latent heat of vaporization
in air, 1·319–321, 325in deep-frying, 2·115, 116–117,
118–119, 125freeze-drying and, 2·444in shallow frying, 2·127–128vacuum reduction and, 2·380
watercresscooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·290Creamed Watercress, 2·426, 5·5
Waterhouse, Andrew, 4·349water-in-gas (W/G) emulsions, 4·243water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion, 4·199,
203water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W)
emulsion, 4·199watermelon
compressing, parametric recipe for, 3·390
impregnating, parametric recipe for, 3·390
smoking, parametric recipe for, 3·362
Watermelon Bulgogi plated-dish recipe, 5·285–287
Watermelon Meat, 3·394, 5·285Watermelon Rind Kimchi, 5·285,
286watermelon chips
parametric recipe for, 3·328Watermelon Chips, 3·328
Waters, AliceNew American cuisine and, 1·28–29Razor Clam with Sauce Verte recipe,
3·112on Slow Food, 1·23
water-vapor ovensbaking using, 2·106cooking modes of, 2·155–156CVap. See CVap water-vapor ovensheat and humidity control in,
2·158–159invention of, 2·154for Modernist kitchen, 2·284pot-roasting using, 2·96for sous vide cooking, 2·232, 239,
243water content of heated air in, 2·153
Watson, Hugh, 3·39Wa� , James, 1·272wa� les, preparation of, 3·122wa� s, 1·272–273, 2·10wavelength, of microwaves, 2·182waxy corn, thickening with, 4·20, 28
parametric recipe for, 4·28wd~50. See Dufresne, WylieWDT (Weiss Distribution Technique),
for grooming espresso, 4·383Weaire, Denis, 4·246Weaire-Phelan structure, 4·246
weasand meat, as sausage binder, 3·222–223
weather, winemaking and, 4·328–329weeping. See syneresisweight loss diets, 1·240–241Weight Watchers, 1·241, 242weighting agents, emulsion stability
and, 4·204weights
calibrated, for pressure-canning, 2·86–87
conversion tables, 5·XXXVIIand measures, 1·94–95scales for measuring
digital. See digital scaleslaboratory, 4·23
Weil, Roman, 4·339, 340Weiss, John, 4·383Weiss Distribution Technique (WDT),
for grooming espresso, 4·383Wendleboe, Tim, 4·396, 400Westinghouse, Tenderay process for
dry-aging meat of, 3·41, 78wet cures, basic, parametric recipe for,
3·169wet process, for co� ee, 4·358Wet Whisker, 4·398wet-aging meat, 3·41wet-bulb temperature
as baking temperature, 2·103, 106, 107, 112
barbecue stall and, 3·212basting and, 2·103for beer can chicken, 2·109braising in ovens and, 2·96in CVap water-vapor oven,
2·158–159, 165dry-bulb temperature vs., 2·96, 102,
106, 112drying and, 2·431drying stages in baking and,
2·106–108evaporative cooling and, 2·155pot-roasting in ovens and, 2·96on psychrometric charts, how to
read, 1·323in Rational combi oven, 2·164–165relative humidity and, 1·322for smoking, 3·208, 211
wet-curingbest bets for, 3·169equilibrium method for, 3·162, 165
how to, 3·170–171for food preservation, 3·152high-concentration method for,
3·171osmosis and, 3·154salinity for, 3·160speeding by injection or vacuum,
how to, 3·174–175wet-grinding, 2·412–427
with colloid mills, 2·413–414, 416–419
equipment for, 2·412–414with Pacojet, 2·407with rotor-stator homogenizers,
2·413, 420–421with ultrahigh-pressure
homogenizers, 2·422–423with ultrasonic homogenizers,
2·414–415W/G (water-in-gas) emulsions, 4·243
wheat. See also � ourallergies to, 1·238thickening with, parametric recipe
for, 4·28Wheat Bran Fiber Study, 1·215, 217wheat pasta, parametric recipe for,
3·381wheat starch, 4·20, 28whey protein isolate
foaming and, 5·187for froths, parametric recipe for,
4·264Whipped Bu� er, 4·286Whipped Cheese, 4·272Whipped Yogurt Crisps, 4·292whipping siphons
for cold foams, 4·245cutaway illustration of, 4·261to foam ba� er on food for frying,
3·316foam forming with, 4·252, 255, 258for Modernist kitchen, 2·286molding sausage with, 3·241nitrous oxide used in, 4·256
whisksemulsifying with, 4·206, 208foam forming with, 4·252, 255, 258,
259frothing milk for espresso with, 4·391
White, Marco Pierre, 1·28white abalone, about, 5·203white asparagus, Sous Vide White
Asparagus, 5·147, 149white cabbage, Sous Vide and Pressure-
Cooked Veal Breast with Bulbous Vegetables, 3·111
White Coleslaw, 5·67, 72White Grape Syrup, 4·52white hot, 1·287White Lily � our, 5·13, 77white meat
in chickens and turkeys, 3·12in chickens vs. ducks, 3·16–17meat color and, 3·12–15
White Stock, 2·297white tea infusion, parametric recipe
for, 2·310white wine. See speci� c types of winewhite� sh, cold-smoking, parametric
recipe for, 3·210“Why Most Published Research
Findings Are False” (Ionnadis), 1·220Wickens, Robin, 1·71wild boar
E. coli O157:H7 outbreak of 2006 and, 1·172
Trichinella and, 1·120, 122wild rice, pu� ed, parametric recipe for,
4·302wild wood violets, Blossom Salad, 5·171,
172Wiltshire tank cure, parametric recipe
for, 3·169wind chill factor, convection and, 1·283wine, 4·316–353. See also speci� c types of
winealcohol percentage in, 1·330antimicrobial properties of oregano
or thyme and, 1·145aroma kit and, technology of, 4·348cheap vs. expensive, 4·340, 342closures, 4·344–345color and � avor of, 4·334–335, 338
wine (continued)corked, 4·348–350, 349decanting, 4·342–343descriptions of, 4·339–340freeze concentration of, 2·396gold medals for, 4·338–339grape varieties and, 4·326–328great, factors in, 4·322–332hyperdecanting, 4·343labels, 4·351for marinating, 3·195names, rules, and laws of, 4·331–332pairing, 4·350, 352, 5·109as preserved plant food, 3·346production process for, 1·256ratings of, 4·338–339red, resveratrol in, 1·228reverse osmosis in making, 2·397reviews of, goals for, 4·340seasoning with, 2·317storing, 4·345–348taste and � avor myths about, 4·341tasting, 4·334–353
sensory science of, 4·337terroir and, 4·322–325underground cellars for, physics of,
4·345un� nished bo� les of, 4·346–348vacuum packing and, 2·213viscosity of, 4·353viticulture and, 4·329–331weather and climate, and, 4·328–329
� e Wine Advocate, 4·330, 338Wine Aroma Wheel, 4·339Wine Business Monthly, 4·338wine cellars, underground, physics of,
4·345wine “improvement” devices, 4·343Wine Spectator, 4·348wineglasses
legs or tears on inside of, 4·353shape of, evaporated volatiles and,
4·325winemaking, 1·7, 4·329–331winter squash. See also speci� c types of
winter squashcooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3·289, 290puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425Root Vegetable Riso� o, 3·309
W/O (water-in-oil) emulsion, 4·199, 203Woese, Carl, 1·130wok burners, 2·52, 56–57, 287Wok-Fried Malaysian Vegetables, 5·167,
169woks. See also stir-frying
bao technique with, 2·54, 55chao technique with, 2·56–57glowing hot, physics of, 1·287heat transfer in, 2·48sautéing using, 2·45seasoning, 2·53
Wolfert, Paula, Duck Leg Con� t with Pommes Sarladaises recipe, 3·178
Wolke, Robert L., 1·44� e Woman Who � inks Like a Cow, 3·36Women’s Health Initiative study
on dietary fat and cancer, 1·233on dietary fat and heart disease,
1·229on dietary � ber and colon cancer,
1·217, 219, 220on multivitamins, 1·235
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 113 3/22/11 10:56:47 AM
C X I V I N D E X
WOMEN’S HEALTHY EATING AND LIVING TRIALWWomen’s Healthy Eating and Living
trial, 1·233Wondra, thickening with, 4·22, 30
parametric recipe for, 4·30wood
for smokingchoices in, and myths of, 2·145cultural importance of, 2·136
soaked, for smoking, 2·145we� ing for smoking, cautions
against, 2·141, 143wood stoves, 1·286wood-� red ovens, 2·26–27, 33World Health Organization, 1·228, 240worms. See parasitic wormsworst-case scenarios, food safety rules
and, 1·168–169W/O/W (water-in-oil-in-water)
emulsion, 4·199Wrangham, Richard, 1·6, 3·269
Xxanthan gum
for bubbles and froths, parametric recipe for, 4·264
for cold gels, parametric recipe for, 4·140
controlling syneresis with, 4·17for edible � lms, parametric recipe
for, 4·60as emulsion stabilizer, 4·215for � uid gels, parametric recipe for,
4·177as foam stabilizer, 4·257gluten-free bread and, 3·376in heavy cream, 4·102for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe
for, 4·165for hot gels, parametric recipe for,
4·160hydration of, 4·38interactions with other thickeners,
4·44–45for light foams, parametric recipe
for, 4·270myriad uses of, 4·40natural sources for, 1·253, 257product guide for, 4·IV–Vproperties and uses of, 4·42–43for set foams, parametric recipe for,
4·288–289for spheri� cation, parametric recipe
for, 4·187for thick foams, parametric recipe
for, 4·278–279thickening with, parametric recipe
for, 4·46, 47xanthophyll, poultry � esh color and, 3·93xiao long bao, 5·253XO Sauce, 4·52
YYakitori, 3·201yeast
corked wine and, 4·350on ripening cured meat or seafood,
3·173yellow squash, cooking sous vide,
parametric recipe for, 3·289yellow wax beans, Fresh Bean Salad,
5·85, 87Yersinia enterocolitica, 1·117, 134, 145yogurt
Activa used in, 3·251Banana Yogurt, 5·98Dannon
for American tastes, 1·20–21as fast, ready-to-eat food, 1·22–23
fermentation and, 1·134fruit-on-the-bo� om, 1·20–21for marinating, 3·190, 198Whipped Yogurt Crisps, 4·292Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato
Chips, 4·287Young, Chris, 1·85yuba, 5·205
Abalone and Foie Gras Shabu-Shabu with Yuba and Enoki, 5·197, 203
Green Pea Yuba, 4·115yuzus
Uni with Whipped Tofu and Tapioca, 4·285
Yuzu and Kumquat Marmalade, 3·356
ZZhu, Johnny, ramen cups developed by,
5·247Zhu, Mrs., Microwaved Tilapia with
Scallions and Ginger recipe, 3·115Zichichi, Antonino, Erice Conferences
and, 1·44, 45zinc, health bene� ts of, 1·235Zinfandel, history of sleuthing out, 4·326Ziryab, 1·10Zoecklein, Bruce W., 4·334Zoka café, 4·398zucchini
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·289, 292
preserving, parametric recipe for, 3·348
Zucchini Blossom Beignet, 5·151, 153
ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 114 3/22/11 10:56:48 AM