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Paraguay IFS 2014 - Ñanduti Beyond the layers

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"Paraguayan identity is in flux and this exhibition of four emerging designers aims to showcase the hugely diverse influences that converge in Paraguay's contemporary cultural milieu. Often referred to as a homogeneous nation, Paraguay is in fact a crossroad of diverse cultures and ethnicities, mainly European in origin, but also EastAsian and Middle Eastern as well as a number of local native cultures. This rich mixture, coupled with fast economic growth during the last few years, has resulted in a vibrant scene in all areas of the creative industries.

It is precisely this diversity and ongoing transformation that the four designers want to showcase through their personal exploration of a traditional lace called Ñandutí (Spider web), which is still handcrafted locally. They will do so, by re-working it and setting it against their own transnational experiences and influences.

By studying the Ñandutí's geometry, structure, texture and semiotic significance, each designer has chosen to focus on a different aspect, hence highlighting their own preoccupations with design.

Paraguay's exhibit will aim to surprise the viewer by taking her inside an imaginary web with superimposing layers resembling the structure of the Ñandutí itself, where each piece will be able to tell its own unique story and each story will in turn weave itself into the display at large."

Yanina AubreyCurator

/ INTRODUCTION

/ THE DESIGNERS

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/ ILSE JARA

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Astrid uses the Ñandutí’s shape as the core of her silver �ligree pieces, all of which take its cue from Astrid’s signature themes of femininity and sensuality. Each piece is envisioned as a “Body installation” that emphasises the female shape.

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/ INDEX

/ LUCIA FERRES

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NEONELA (spider genus of the Salticidae family -jumping spiders)

Bi-colour pleated dress that explores the theme of metamor-phosis, as the wearer - in nude- is taken over by the spider’s black web.

MATERIALS: Tulle, silk yarns, jersey.

/ 4

BREDA(genus of Salticidae spider found in the Americas)

Maxi Dress representing the completion of the metamorphosis –once the web has taken over completely and a new creature has emerged from within: free to move, at last.

MATERIALS: Laminated brocade.

/ ICIAR BRAVO

/ 1 GOLDEN GEOMETRY

Pleated Dress that uses folding to evoke the repetition of geometric shapes present in the Ñandutí lace.

MATERIALS: Silk sateen.

/ 3

VOLUME

Three-piece out�t (trousers/shirt/vest) where each one uses pleats and folding, generating repeating geometric shapes and playing with volume.

MATERIALS: Cotton, cloth, wool.

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DIAGONDAS(a genus of jumping spiders found in South America)

Tailored jacket & �tted dress. The jacket’s arms are positioned in such way that they restrict the wearer’s movement, creating the feeling of being enveloped by a web.

MATERIALS: silk, tulle, wool, jersey.

/ 2

GREY LINES

Maxi Dress in silk organza that uses folding and super-im-posed stitching to create a textured web-like structure.

MATERIALS: Silk organza, gauze.

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HUNDRED & ONE FOLDS

Three-piece suit that aims to create contrasting textures both at a visual and tactile level.

MATERIALS: Cotton satin, silk, organza.

/ ILSE JARA

/ 1

AGUAPE (water lily)

Laser-cut leather cape with a silk crepe and wool bodice. This piece was inspired by a Ñandutí pattern that evokes a waterfall, using repetition and gradation to create movement

MATERIALS: Leather, silk crepe, wool, metal beads.

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PENSAMIENTO(type of �ower)

High-waisted jacket/dress inspired by a Ñandutí motif that reproduces a four-petal �ower design.

MATERIALS: Leather, tulle, silk organza, silk crepe, metal beads.

/ ASTRID POLETTI

/ 1 HOMBRERAS - ANAT

Piece formed by oval-shaped silver �ligree threads that use repetition & progression to form a cover shaped around one shoulder.

MATERIALS: Sterling silver.

/ 3

CINTURON - AGLAIA

Belt formed out of interwoven circular shapes..

MATERIALS: Sterling Silver.

/ 2

TYVYTA(eyebrow)

Tulle dress with a �tted, handcrafted bodice and voluminous skirt. It was Inspired on a Ñandutí stitch that makes use of diagonal and semi-circular lines (eyebrow-shaped) to create a wave like e�ect.

MATERIALS: Tulle, silk crepe, metal beads.

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KUARAHY(sun)

Dress with a wide tulle skirt, laser-cut leather and silk crepe bodice, based on by a Ñandutí motif resembling the sun´s ray light with the use of repetition in strips and radiation in skirt.

MATERIALS: Tulle, leather, silk crepe, metal beads.

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ESCLAVAS - APHRODITE

Set of two cu�/ arm bracelets, made out of �ligree silver shaped as curved leaves.

MATERIALS: Sterling silver.

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HOMBRERAS - APHRODITE

Shoulder piece that uses �ligree silver to form an intricate pattern of interconnected leaves.

MATERIALS: Sterling silver.

www.paraguayifs.com