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Part 5

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OutlandishScotland.com A Novel Holiday Travel Guidebook

Outlandish Scotland Journey Part 5 Sample

3

Table of Contents

Please Note: Below is the full Table of Contents for Outlandish Scotland Journey Part 5.

This Free Sample, however, only contains a few chapters. Additionally, every time you see this

“…” it identifies a point where we’ve cut text from the sample chapter—usually a great deal of text.

After all, we want you to buy the book!

Introduction About Outlandish Scotland Journey (OSJ)

OSJ Parts and Outlandish Site Numbers

About the OSJ eBooks

OSJ Site Rating Icons

The Outlanderite Oath

Outlandish Extras

OSJ Fee Examples

PART FIVE: Edinburgh; the City & Nearby Sites Edinburgh Castle, Site #39

Signet Library, Site #40

Tweeddale Court, Site #41

The World’s End Pub, Edinburgh, Site #42

Old Tolbooth & Canongate Kirk, Edinburgh, Site #43

Bakehouse Close, Site #44

Whitehorse Close, Edinburgh, Site #45

Holyroodhouse Palace & Abbey, Site #46

Summerhall Anatomy Lecture Theatre, Site #47

Craigmillar Castle, Site #48

Prestonpans Battlefield, Site #49

Gosford House, Site #50

Preston Mill, Site #51

Glencorse Old Kirk, Site #52

Roslin Glen Ruins, Site #53

Appendices Outlandish Scotland Extras

Disclaimers

Acknowledgements

Photography Credits

Copyright Information

The End


4

The City of Edinburgh: Site #39

(and Edinburgh Castle)

Five Novel Locations

Four Film Sites

A City Extraordinarily Rich in Scottish History

(and a Castle that Can’t be Missed)

[©2005 Christian Bickel]

Edinburgh is Scotland’s capital city and one of the country’s most interesting and popular

destinations. You can visit Edinburgh again and again, discovering new sights and experiences each

and every time.

To read an excellently condensed description of the city, go to Undiscovered Scotland’s

Edinburgh page.

https://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/edinburgh/edinburgh/index.html

To read a more in‐depth account of the city’s history—spanning thousands of years—go to

Wikipedia’s History of Edinburgh page.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_Edinburgh

When planning a visit to a city as complex as Edinburgh, a great deal of information should be

considered. To keep this chapter from becoming too cumbersome, we created an Edinburgh


5

Planning Directory. Linked from the Part 5 OutlanderLinks page of our website (and below), this

directory contains the following free PDFs:

Explanation of the Royal Mile and Edinburgh Terminology

Visiting Edinburgh in August—or Not

Driving and Parking in Edinburgh—or Not

Edinburgh Public Buses

Edinburgh Hop‐on/off‐Buses

Edinburgh Taxis

Edinburgh Lodging Options

Edinburgh Old Town Walking Tours

Non‐Outlander Edinburgh Sites of Interest

(Especially interesting if you’re also a Harry Potter fan.)

http://outlandishscotland.com/Edinburgh‐Planning/

As it becomes available, new information will be added to the planning directory’s PDFs. Be sure

to periodically check back to see if a new update has been posted.

The contents of this chapter focus on information handy to have at your fingertips as you tour the

city—as well as in‐depth information about Edinburgh Castle.

…

The Royal Mile is home to five Outlander Novel Locations and three of Edinburgh’s four Outlander

Film Sites. Following this chapter, these places have chapters of their own, presented in the order

they are encountered when walking downhill from Edinburgh Castle to Holyrood Palace.

Signet Library (Site #40); a Film Site

Tweeddale Court (Site #41); a Film Site

World’s End Pub (Site #42); a Novel Location

Canongate Old Tolbooth and Canongate Kirk (Site #43); two Novel Locations

Bakehouse Close (Site #44); a Film Site

White Horse Close (Site #45); a Novel Location

Holyrood Palace (Site #46); a Novel Location

The fourth Outlander Film Site, Summerhall Anatomy Lecture Theatre (Site #47), is located

approximately one mile south of the Royal Mile.

In case you didn’t notice our subtle hint above, the best way to enjoy the Royal Mile is to start at its

top—Edinburgh Castle—and walk downhill to its bottom—Holyrood Palace. Obviously, you can start

at the Palace and walk up the Royal Mile, but it really is a rather arduous incline. Even Claire thought

so.

“Edinburgh sloped upward steeply along its one main street. Holyrood sat in dignity at the foot

… It loftily ignored the glowering presence of Edinburgh Castle, perched high on the crest of the

rocky hill above. In between the two castles, the Royal Mile rose at a rough angle of forty‐five


6

degrees. Puffing red‐faced at Jamie’s side, I wondered how in hell Colum MacKenzie had ever

negotiated the quarter‐mile of cobbled slope from the palace to [Canongate Kirk].”

Dragonfly in Amber, chapter 37, “Holyrood”

[©2012 Kim Traynor segment (enhanced)]

Edinburgh Castle as seen from the South.

Edinburgh Castle Crowning the top of a gigantic extinct volcano, Edinburgh Castle is one of the most important

fortresses in Scottish history. It is not an Outlander novel setting, nor is it a film site. But, no one who

visits Edinburgh should pass up an opportunity to tour this amazing edifice.

“No trip to Scotland’s capital is complete without a visit to Edinburgh Castle—voted Best UK

Heritage Attraction for the fourth year in a row at the British Travel Awards 2014.”

https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit‐a‐place/places/edinburgh‐castle/

Furthermore, if you purchased an Historic Environment Scotland Explorer Pass for your holiday,

admission to Edinburgh Castle is free.

…

Edinburgh Castle Plan of Attack When visiting any world‐famous tourist attraction there are tricks for gaining entry more rapidly,

and for minimizing the amount of time you’ll waste waiting in lines (queues) during your visit. Here

are our tips for efficiently enjoying Edinburgh Castle.

Obtain Your Edinburgh Castle Admission Ticket Prior to Arrival

This is the most important tip! Buying tickets on‐site will be more expensive and always will cost you

extra time.


7

Historic Environment Scotland Explorer Pass holders can go directly to the ticket inspector’s

queue after walking through the castle’s main entrance.

Those who purchase a ticket online from the Edinburgh Castle website—or from the Historic

Environment Scotland website—will not only save money (tickets cost less when purchased online),

you also can go directly to the ticket inspector’s queue—but, only if you select the Print at Home

option. You’ll receive an email with your ticket purchase confirmation attached as a PDF. The PDF

contains barcodes that the ticket inspector can scan. Print this and bring it with you on your visit.

If you select the Ticket Pickup option when buying an Edinburgh Castle ticket online, or save the

online ticket purchase confirmation to your smart phone, you’ll pay less for entry, but will have to

queue‐up at the Ticket Pick Up machines at the bottom (east end) of the Castle Esplanade. These are

located at the security hut on the left hand side as you approach the Esplanade, across from the

Tartan Weaving Mill. You will need to provide your last name and order confirmation number to

collect your tickets.

Do not fret about having to choose a date and time slot when purchasing your Print at Home ticket

online. Your ticket confirmation will allow entry during the selected time slot on the day before the

ticketed date (in case your itinerary is altered and you need to visit a day earlier than planned), or on

up to two days after the original date (in case it was raining Scottish cats and dogs on the ticketed

date, or you were otherwise delayed in reaching Edinburgh).

The entry time slot options range from 1 to 1.5 hours long. This does not indicate a time limit for

your visit—there isn’t one. Its purpose is to identify the time of your intended arrival. You may enter

the castle at any point during the time slot you select, and stay until closing if you wish.

In the unhappy event that you purchase a Print at Home online ticket for the first time slot of the

day (our recommendation), but something delays your arrival, do not stress. Your Print at Home

ticket confirmation will allow entry during subsequent time slots that day, and you still can take the

printed ticket directly to the ticket inspector—bypassing the ticket purchase lines—to gain entry.

…

Join the First Guided Tour

After clearing the ticket inspector, walk through the Portcullis Gate to enter the Middle Ward and

look to your right. There you’ll find the Audio Tour booth. Secure your Audio Tour, then scurry to

the Guided Tour meeting place. It is only a few feet beyond the booth, on your right. You’ll see a

rectangular, “Guided Tours Leave from Here” sign with a clock on it.

The first 30‐minute free Guided Tour leaves at 9:45 am. Be on it! By catching the first tour you’ll

enjoy an overview of Edinburgh Castle right away. After that, you can better plan your in‐depth

exploration.

Free Guided Tours generally leave every 30 minutes throughout the day, but the schedule can

vary, depending on staffing levels and weather conditions.


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Jewels & Stone First!

The complementary Guided Tour ends at the very top of Edinburgh Castle, in the Crown Square,

outside the Royal Palace that contains the Honors of Scotland.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honours_of_Scotland

Outlanderites interested in viewing the fabulous Crown Jewels of Scotland—the oldest Royal

Regalia in Britain—and the infamous Stone of Destiny, should head to that exhibit immediately after

the complementary Guided Tour.

Throughout any day of the year, the queue for entry to the Crown Jewels can grow to exceed an

hour of wait time. The sooner you go there, the less time you’ll spend waiting in line to reach them.

During the peak tourist season, there are two Royal Palace entrances for viewing the Crown Jewels

and the Stone of Destiny—part of an effort to minimize the wait time. The year‐round Royal Palace

entrance leads to a passage that meanders through a relatively humdrum (according to reviews)

palace museum before actually reaching the jewels. The extra summer entrance skips the museum

and leads directly to the jewels.

[©2009 Nilfanion segment (enhanced)] [©2011 GSB Photography segment (enhanced)]

Door #1 (above) is the year‐round entrance to the Royal Palace. This is the route that takes you

through the museum, culminating with the Crown Jewels of Scotland and Stone of Destiny. It is

located outside the Crown Square, on the north face of the Royal Palace.

Door #2 is the peak tourist season secondary entrance that skips the museum and leads directly

to the Jewels and Stone. It is located within the Crown Square, at the base of the Royal Palace

Clock Tower.

[Thank you to Kelly Duhigg of Girl With The Passport for bringing this to our attention!

https://www.girlwiththepassport.com/edinburgh‐castle‐guide/]

…


9

Craigmillar Castle (Site #48) Preston Mill (Site # 51) Roslin Glen Ruins (Site #53) [See also: Prestonpans Battlefield (Site #49), Gosford House (Site #50), Glencorse Old Kirk (Site #52)]

Our Last Outlandish Edinburgh Plan of Attack Tip: Whether visiting Outlander sites near Edinburgh (above)

Before or After visiting the city,

Schedule at least TWO Days to Enjoy the City of Edinburgh

Dedicate one day to a morning Edinburgh Castle visit, followed by a downhill stroll along the

Royal Mile, stopping at the Outlander film sites and novel locations (Sites #40 through #45).

[Anticipate your Royal Mile Outlander visit lasting at least 3.5 hours.]

On another day, tour Holyrood Palace (Site #46) in the morning, followed by one or two Non‐

Outlander Edinburgh places or activities.

[See our our Non‐Outlander Edinburgh Places of Interest PDF

http://OutlandishScotland.com/NonOutlanderEdSites.pdf].

If you’re interested in a Hop‐on/off‐Bus tour, make this your first day’s itinerary.

[See our Edinburgh Hop‐on/off‐Bus Tours PDF.

http://OutlandishScotland.com/EdinburghHopOnOffBuses.pdf]

Consider enjoying one of the Edinburgh evening walking tours the night before your second day,

as discussed in our Edinburgh Old Town Walking Tours PDF.

http://OutlandishScotland.com/EdinburghWalkingTours.pdf

If you only have one day to tour the city, you’ll need at least half of that day to visit the Outlander

film sites and novel locations along the Royal Mile. This means you must choose between touring

Edinburgh Castle or Holyrood Palace. After reading the Holyrood Palace (Site #46) chapter, you’ll be

better able to decide which option is best for you.

To see additional site photos, go to the Edinburgh and Edinburgh Castle boards on our Outlandish

Scotland Journey Pinterest Site:

https://www.pinterest.com/chasOSJ/edinburgh/

https://www.pinterest.com/chasOSJ/edinburgh‐castle/

OutlanderLinks All website addresses found in this chapter are available in the Site #39 OutlanderLinks PDF, posted

free of charge on the Part 5 OutlanderLinks directory of our website.

http://OutlandishScotland.com/39OutlanderLinks.pdf


10

Updated Edinburgh information that becomes available after Outlandish Scotland Journey is

published will also be posted in this directory.

Time & Travel: Edinburgh Castle

Visiting Time

No less than two hours are required to enjoy the most popular castle highlights. As we described

above, a four‐to‐five hour visit would be best.

The Edinburgh Castle website offers a variety of itinerary suggestions.

https://www.edinburghcastle.gov.uk/visit/itineraries

Their “Just an Hour” itinerary, however, is extraordinarily misleading. Not only is the map on that

page inaccurate, it would be impossible to visit all the sites listed on that itinerary in one hour—even if

you stopped at each site for only 5 minutes and sprinted between them!

Realistically, 1 hour allows time to enjoy the exterior‐only, 30‐minute Guided Tour … snap some

pix of the views … and quickly visit one of the shops. If timed correctly, the hour can begin or end

with the One o’Clock Gun ceremony. If you view the One o’Clock Gun ceremony, however, you’ll

not have time to enjoy the 30‐minute Guided Tour.

Bottom Line: If you only have 1 hour at Edinburgh Castle, why oh why would you want to pay

the full admission fee? Instead, snap some pix from the Castle Esplanade and then visit the Portcullis

Shop, located in the Lower Ward. Both of these areas are open to the public, free of charge.

Edinburgh Castle Hours of Operation

The Castle opens daily at 9:30am.

Except for January 1st, when it opens at 11am.

April 1st through September 30th; closing time is 6pm, last entry at 5pm.

October 1st through March 31st; closing time is 5pm, last entry at 4pm.

The Castle is closed on December 25th and 26th.

…

Public Transportation Directions

The Edinburgh Castle website has a Getting Here page:

https://www.edinburghcastle.gov.uk/visit/getting‐here

Additionally, see our Edinburgh Planning Directory for

Edinburgh Public Buses information

http://OutlandishScotland.com/EdinburghPublicBuses.pdf

Edinburgh Hop‐on/off‐Buses information

http://OutlandishScotland.com/EdinburghHopOnOffBuses.pdf


11

Edinburgh Taxis information

http://OutlandishScotland.com/EdinburghTaxis.pdf

Driving Directions

See the Edinburgh Driving and Parking PDF, posted free of charge on the Edinburgh Planning

directory (accessed from the Part 5 OutlanderLinks section of our website).

http://OutlandishScotland.com/EdinburghDrivingParking.pdf

…

Tweeddale Court: Site #41

Outlander Season Three Film Site

[©2018 Andreé Poppleton: Twitter @poppy53;

IG @poppytop53; outlandercast.com segments (enhanced)]

Approximately 3 blocks east of the Signet Library (Site #40) and St Giles Cathedral, on the south side

of the Royal Mile, you’ll find the elaborately painted entrance to Tweeddale Court.

“Walking down the narrow passageway [to Tweeddale Court] you emerge through a pair of iron

gates into a courtyard, with Tweeddale House right in front of you. The building is something of

an architectural detective story, changed and adapted many times over the years. Inside are the

remains of a carved doorway dated 1576, with the initials of perhaps the first owner, Neil Lang

and his wife Elizabeth Danielstoune. …


12

“The building came by its present name in 1670 when it was bought by the Marquess of

Tweeddale, a senior adviser to King Charles II. …

“In the 1700s though, the house seems to have gone into decline, and in 1750 the architects

John and Robert Adam even suggested its demolition.

…

[Outlander Season 3 screenshot (enhanced)] [STARZ Behind‐the‐Scenes segment (enhanced)]

In episode 306, “A. Malcolm,” Tweeddale Court is seen when Jamie and Claire journey through a

bustling Edinburgh market while en route from Carfax Close to the World’s End Pub. It was here that

Claire and Fergus were reunited.

Claire passed through the same bustling Edinburgh market in episode 307, “Crème de Menthe,”

on her way to meet and diagnose Margaret Campbell.

[Pre‐filming set photo ©2017 hamiltonandyoung.co.uk] [Season 3 screenshot (enhanced)]

Tweeddale Court was literally jam‐packed full of set pieces and props, with scores of costumed extras

milling about, selling and purchasing a wide variety of wares while the camera rolled.

13 Outlandish Scotland Journey Part 5 Sample

Obviously, all of these items (and people) are now long gone, and Tweeddale Court looks little

like it did on screen. In spite of this, we gave Tweeddale Court a Great Site rating because it is so

easy to reach, and its history is so tangible when you visit.

In fact, it is only in the absence of the props and costumed extras that you can appreciate two

of the most interesting historical aspects of Tweeddale Court.

[©2009 Jonathan Oldenbuck segment (enhanced)]

…

To see additional site photos, go to the Tweeddale Court board on our Outlandish Scotland Journey

Pinterest Site:

https://www.pinterest.com/chasOSJ/tweeddale‐court/

OutlanderLinks All website addresses found in this chapter are available in the Site #41 OutlanderLinks PDF, posted

free of charge on the Part 5 OutlanderLinks directory of our website.

http://OutlandishScotland.com/41OutlanderLinks.pdf

Updated Tweeddale Court information that becomes available after Outlandish Scotland Journey is

published will also be posted in this directory.

Time & Travel: Tweeddale Court

Visiting Time

A film‐site‐pix‐only Tweeddale Court visit can be accomplished in 30 minutes. We suggest

scheduling an hour here, however, allowing ample time to soak up the 17th and 18th century

ambience of this historic site.


14

Please Note:

Tweeddale Court is home to active businesses, as well as private residences. It is important that

all Outlanderites be as polite as possible when visiting. It only takes one noisy or disrespectful fan

to ruin the reception received by all those who visit thereafter. Please be the very best Outlander

Ambassador you can be.

Hours of Operation

Tweeddale Court is a public area, thus it is “open” every day of the year. Please visit only during

daylight hours.

Admission Fees

As a public area, there is no admission fee for visiting Tweeddale Court.

Accessibility

Tweeddale Court is fully accessible from The Royal Mile, although its slate‐paved archway and street

may be slippery when wet.

[©2017 Google Street View image segment (enhanced)]

Finding Tweeddale Court

When walking downhill on the Royal Mile (from Edinburgh Castle), Tweeddale Court is

approximately 3 blocks east of the Signet Library (Site #40) and St Giles Cathedral, on the south side

of High Street. Just before reaching St Mary’s Street, Tweeddale Court’s brightly painted entrance

cannot be missed.

If walking west on the Royal Mile (uphill from Holyrood Palace), you’ll find the entrance to

Tweeddale Court just beyond the World’s End Pub (Site #42) and the World’s End Close entrance.

Driving Directions

See the Edinburgh Driving and Parking PDF, posted free of charge on the Edinburgh Planning

directory (accessed from the Part 5 OutlanderLinks section of our website).

http://OutlandishScotland.com/EdinburghDrivingParking.pdf

…


15

White Horse Close: Site #45

A Minor Novel Location

Jacobite Officers’ Headquarters During the ‘45


The White Horse Close entryway building (above, left) and the

north wall of the Scottish Parliament Building (above, right),

as seen when approaching from the west.

The last Outlandish stop when walking west (downhill) on Edinburgh’s Royal Mile is White Horse

Close. [It’s the first stop if you elect to walk east on the Royal Mile, uphill from Holyrood Palace (Site

#46).]

The entrance to White Horse Close is found in the center of a relatively nondescript building at the

foot (east end) of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, directly across from the distinctive Canongate Wall.

“Beneath the Canongate Building façade [on the modern Scottish Parliament Building’s north

side] is the Canongate Wall, constructed from a variety of indigenous Scottish rocks such as

Lewisian gneiss, Torridonian sandstone and Easdale slate. The stones are set into large concrete

casts, each one inscribed with a quotation. The Canongate Wall contains a total of 24 quotations.

Etched along the lower stretch of the wall is a pictorial representation of the Old Town of

Edinburgh‐based around a sketch by Enric Miralles showing the view of the Old Town from his

bedroom window in the Balmoral Hotel.”

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scottish_Parliament_Building


16


It is the center, thinner and taller, of the 5 archways fronting the Royal Mile side of this building that

leads to White Horse Close.

Why is White Horse Close Important to Outlanderites?

After going to Craigh na Dun and successfully traveling back in time from 1968 to 1766, White Horse

Close is where Claire disembarked the coach that bore her from Inverness to Edinburgh (Voyager,

chapter 24, “A. Malcolm, Printer”).

Furthermore, this is where Claire would have reached the Royal Mile in 1766—only a block or

two east of where she caught the sleeve of a passing baker’s boy and asked directions to A. Malcolm’s

print shop. Thus, the baker‐boy’s directions to the fictional Carfax Close provided in the novel just

happen to be accurate directions to the location of its real‐world film site—Bakehouse Close (Site

#44).

Another (admittedly minor) Point of Interest for Outlanderites:

“Tradition maintains that Jacobite officers were billeted in [White Horse Close] during Charles

Edward Stuartʹs occupation of nearby Holyrood Palace during the Jacobite Rebellion of 1745.”

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_Horse_Close

[©2014 G Stewart segment (enhanced)]


17

White Horse Close is named for an inn that once was located at its northern end. (The building seen

at center, above.)

“The building bears the date 1632, but this is believed to have been carved when it was restored

[for the first time] in the 1930s, the tablet being altered from displaying the more implausible date

of 1532. In his Views of Edinburgh, published around 1820, the English engraver James Storer gave

the date as 1683, which is more in keeping with the late 17th‐century architectural style of the

buildings.”

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_Horse_Close

…

Craigmillar Castle: Site #48

An Outlander Season Three Film Site:

Ardsmuir Prison

[©2006 Jonathan Oldenbuck segment (enhanced)

Located a mere three miles southeast of Edinburgh’s city centre, Craigmillar Castle is often referred

to as “Edinburgh’s Other Castle.”

“[Craigmillar Castle is] one of the most completely preserved medieval castles in Scotland.

“Craigmillar began life as the tower house that still forms the core of the castle. This was

constructed around 1400, probably by Sir George Preston, one of a line of Prestons who played a

large part in civic life in Edinburgh over several hundred years.


18

“It was his grandson Sir William Preston who, in the 1440s, was responsible for Craigmillar’s

most notable feature. He added the curtain wall that surrounds the tower house on three sides

and creates the inner courtyard. In about 1510 Sir Simon Preston added a further layer of

enclosure, erecting outer walls to form the outer yard and east and west gardens.

“Craigmillar Castle was captured by the English in May 1544 with its laird (another) Sir

Simon Preston, who was also Provost of Edinburgh at the time.”

https://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/edinburgh/craigmillarcastle/index.html

We highly recommend reading Undiscovered Scotland’s condensed history of Craigmillar Castle

(link above). For a more in‐depth account, see the Wikipedia Craigmillar Castle webpage link below.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Craigmillar_Castle

An even more condensed history of Craigmillar Castle is found on its Historic Environment Scotland

website.

“Royal Guest Turned Prisoner

“Queen Mary’s Room, on the first floor of the [Craigmillar Castle] tower house, is where

Mary Queen of Scots is said to have slept in 1566. But it’s more likely that she had a multi‐

roomed apartment when she stayed at Craigmillar, probably in the east range.

“Owner Sir Simon Preston was a loyal supporter of Mary, who had appointed him Provost of

Edinburgh. Ironically, he would become her jailer for her first night as a prisoner after her

capture in 1567. Mary was taken from his townhouse in the High Street to Lochleven Castle the

next day.”

https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit‐a‐place/places/craigmillar‐castle/history/

BTW: Craigmillar is pronounced “KRAIG‐mill‐ah” or “KRAIG‐mill‐er.”

[Outlander Season 3 screenshot segment (enhanced)]


19

Outlander Season 3, episode 3, “All Debts Paid,” filming took place at Craigmillar Castle in September

of 2016. The scenes shot here were part of Jamie’s post‐Culloden story, based on Diana Gabaldon’s

third novel, Voyager.

After hiding in a cave near Lallybroch for 7 years [The Dun Bonnet Cave (Site #17)], Jamie

arranged for one of his tenants to “turn him in” to the English so that the reward for his capture

would go to those who lived on the estate, and save them from starving. (On screen, it was his sister,

Jenny, who had to play Judas.) Once captured, Jamie was taken to Ardsmuir Prison—a fictional prison

found in a barren area of northern Scotland. Below is an episode 303 synopsis segment.

“Jamie is serving time in Ardsmuir Prison, where he is the leader and spokesman for the Scottish

prisoners. His uneasy relationship with the new governor, an adult John Grey, evolves into

friendship.”

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Outlander_episodes

Craigmillar Castle receives a Great Site rating because it is so easy to recognize the places

where Ardsmuir Prison scenes were shot—even though the few props and set pieces (and the army

of costumed extras) are long gone.

Compare this chapter’s header photo with the Ardsmuir Prison title screenshot above. Although

a smidgen of architectural CGI magic was employed during post‐production, there is no mistaking

the fact that Craigmillar Castle is Ardsmuir Prison.


After passing through the 15th century castle gate and reaching Craigmillar’s Inner Courtyard, it also

is easy to recognize the Ardsmuir Prison courtyard—as evidenced by the screenshot above and the

site photo below.


20

[©2017 Kevin Addies walkingtalkingblog.wordpress.com/2017/05/21/craigmillar‐castle/ (enhanced)]

You can learn about the venerable Yew Trees found in Craigmillar Castle’s Inner Courtyard (often

seen onscreen) at the link below.

https://www.scotsman.com/news/craigmillar‐castle‐and‐the‐yew‐trees‐of‐mary‐queen‐of‐scots‐1‐

4613483

Exploring Craigmillar Castle—aka getting lost in it—would be fantastic fun even were it not an

Outlander film site.

“Craigmillar Castle is one of the most complete medieval castles in Scotland. Although some

sections lack a roof and the interiors are gutted, it otherwise shows off some of the best examples

of castellated architecture I’ve ever seen. With two layers of walls, a central keep, numerous gun

and arrow slits, machicolations, a wall‐walk, armorial panels and much more, Craigmillar is

brimming with medieval and Renaissance‐era features.”

http://castlehunter.scot/portfolio/craigmillar‐castle/

“The castle is massive and quite a maze, so even though I spent a good two hours exploring it, I

can’t be sure I saw everything. There wasn’t a free guide to the castle, not even one of those

folding paper maps with a ground plan that you usually get at locations like this, and there were

no handy ‘you are here’ maps inside either. …

“On the other hand it was fun to get lost in the castle. There were few other visitors there [in

September of 2017], so I could wander around mostly alone trying to imagine the bare stone

walls with torches and wall hangings, the nobles walking up and down the narrow staircases,

and guests getting lost in the maze like castle.

“Actually, there was one particular winding stone staircase in a corner tower that was so

narrow, and without a helpful rope hanging on the inside curve, that I deemed it too hazardous

to walk down.

“It is rather surprising that there aren’t a huge number of stories of promising nobles’ lives

cut short by them falling down a staircase when going to the kitchens for some midnight kibble.”

http://www.footprintsandfotos.com/craigmillar‐castle/


21

FYI: Subsequent to Outlander simply filming at Craigmillar Castle in September of 2016, the volume

of visitors to Craigmillar Castle increased by 42%.

https://www.scotsman.com/news/visitor‐numbers‐to‐scottish‐castles‐booming‐due‐to‐outlander‐

effect‐1‐4579459

Now that episode 303 has actually aired (September 24th, 2017), the castle’s visitor volume is

likely to grow even larger. Thus, it is possible that castle signage may be improved in the near future,

and probable that you may encounter crowded conditions when visiting during the peak tourist

season—June through September.

[Season 3 screenshot segment (enhanced)] [©2014 Susan Smeder ssmeder.com segment (enhanced)]

As you wander through Craigmillar Castle, watch for the passageways traversed by Lord John Grey

while being given a tour of Ardsmuir by his predecessor, Colonel Harry Quarry, in episode 303.

…

[Outlander Season 3 screenshot (enhanced)]


22

Based on the architecture seen in the screenshot above, we believe that the room where Jamie

interviewed the dying Duncan Kerr also was filmed at Craigmillar Castle. In fact, we are convinced

that this film site is the northernmost East Range Cellar room—the room accessed from the widest

doorway leading off of the Inner Courtyard.

…

[Outlander Season 3 screenshot segments (enhanced)]

Another Ardsmuir Prison location not found in Craigmillar Castle is the Warden’s quarters occupied

by Lord John Grey. We know this was a soundstage set because of the room’s rectangular stone block

construction—a style completely different from Craigmillar Castle’s architecture. Also, there is a fire

in the room’s fireplace and flaming candles on the walls. According to Outlander production designer

Jon Gary Steele:

“When we shoot at historical locations that are hundreds of years old, they do not want fires in

the fireplaces or sconces with flames on the walls, so we build and film most of the interiors on

our soundstages.“

https://ascmag.com/articles/outlander‐love‐is‐a‐battlefield

After enjoying Craigmillar Castle’s maze of rooms and passageways, and marveling at the

magnificent views from its battlements, find your way back to the ground floor’s Inner Courtyard.

Exit via the Inner Courtyard’s arched gate and turn left. Walk west along the north face of

Craigmillar’s 15th century curtain wall until you reach the wall’s northwest tower. There, you’ll find

a rectangular iron gate (braced open during visiting hours) that leads into the West Garden. Pass

through the gate and do an about‐face.


23

[Outlander Season 3 screenshot (enhanced)] [©2016 McVagabonds.com (enhanced)]

You’ll be standing on the spot where Jamie returned to Ardsmuir Prison after having escaped to look

for Claire on the seals’ island—the spot where he surrendered to Lord John Grey and asked to be

executed.

[Underlying plan ©2008 Jonathan Oldenbuck]

Above is a Craigmillar Castle plan we’ve augmented to identify the Outlander film sites. Below is the

film site location key.

…

Public Transportation Directions

Go to Traveline Scotland’s website.

https://www.travelinescotland.com/


24

For your destination, type in, “Craigmillar, Near Craigmillar Castle Road on Peffermill Road.”

This is the bus stop nearest to Craigmillar Castle’s Visitor Centre.

After disembarking the bus, walk east on Peffermill Road to Craigmillar Castle Road (less than

half a block).

Turn right and walk south on Craigmillar Castle Road.

After approximately 10 minutes (half a mile), you’ll see the small “Monument Car Park” for

Craigmillar Castle on your right.

Turn right and walk through the car park to the Craigmillar Castle Visitor Centre.

…

Craigmillar Castle Driving Directions

Address: Craigmillar Castle Road, Edinburgh EH16 4SY

Car Park Entrance Coordinates: 55.926175, ‐3.138366

The small Craigmillar Castle car park has only 9 regular parking spaces and 1 accessible parking

space. If the “Outlander Effect” results in the car park being full when you visit:

Drive north on Craigmillar Castle Road to the first intersection, and turn left on Castle Brae

Avenue.

Street parking is available on the south side of Castle Brae Avenue.

It is a 7 minute walk from the Castle Brae Avenue intersection back to the Craigmillar Castle car

park and Visitor Centre.

Castle Brae Avenue Intersection Coordinates: 55.930082, ‐3.139943

…

Gosford House: Site #50

An Outlander Season 2 & 3 Film Site

A House with a Surprising Bonnie Prince Charlie Relationship


25

[©2014 Andy Sweet www.stravaiging.com segment (enhanced)]

The Western Face of Gosford House

Gosford House is situated within 5,000 acres of picturesque parkland in East Lothian, including a

section of the southern shore of the Firth of Forth. It has been the seat of the Earls of Wemyss

(“WEEMZ”) and March—the Charteris family—for centuries.

http://www.gosfordhouse.co.uk

David Ross, Publisher and Editor of Britain Express, posted an excellently abbreviated history of

Gosford House on December 8th, 2012.

“Gosford House is a magnificent neoclassical house rebuilt in 1890 by architect William Young

for the 10th Earl of Wemyss after an earlier Robert Adam design had been demolished. The main

feature is a superb 3 storey high Marble Hall with a double staircase, central dome and ornate

plasterwork. The interiors are a mix of Adam’s original neoclassical elegance and the 10th Earl’s

Italianate tastes.

“The original [‘New’] Gosford House was one of the last projects undertaken by Robert

Adam before his death in 1792. The house, designed for the 7th Earl, was not actually completed

until 1800, some 8 years after Adam’s death. The 8th Earl wasted no time in knocking down

Adam’s wings, but the 10th Earl had them rebuilt.

“The British Army occupied Gosford during the Second World War and managed to burn

down the main rooms of the central block. You can still see the marks made by the fire on some

of the gilded mirrors in one of the rooms.

“The state rooms are full of fine art, but it is, without a doubt, the striking Marble Hall which

will live long in your memory after a visit.”

http://www.britainexpress.com/attractions.htm?attraction=1220

To read a detailed history of Gosford House (including information about the “Old” Gosford

House—demolished in 1885, and now a rubble pile next to the old stables—visit the Historic

Environment Scotland link below.

http://portal.historicenvironment.scot/designation/GDL00200


26

Gosford House receives a Might‐Be‐Fun rating because:

Access to the primary interior film sites is only available for one hour on each of 25 days per year.

The 25 Gosford House “Public Open Days” are offered on select Thursdays through Mondays,

five times between the end of March and the end of August.

On a Public Open Day, adult entry to Gosford House costs only £8.

No photography is allowed inside the house.

Two Outlander film sites are off‐limits, even on Public Open Days.

Why not a Skip It rating?

On almost every day of the year, you can purchase a permit allowing you to freely wander the

Gosford House grounds. It costs only £1.

If the dates of your holiday happen to coincide with a Public Open Day, and it is convenient to

your Outlandish itinerary, Gosford House is a great place to visit.

[©2014 Andy Sweet segment (enhanced)] [Outlander Season 2 screenshot (enhanced)]

Exterior Gosford House Film Sites Gosford House was first seen on screen in episode 5 of Outlander Season 2, “Untimely Resurrection.”

The western lawn of the house was transformed into the lawn of Versailles, during a horse show. As

you can see when comparing the screenshot above right, to the central western face photo above

left—and this chapter’s header photo—from the first floor balcony down to the ground, everything

seen on screen is exactly as it exists in the real‐world—apart from the Outlandish set pieces, props,

and costumed people, of course. Only the upper floors of Gosford House’s western face were

digitally altered to make the building look more like the Palace of Versailles in France.


27

[Outlander Season 2 screenshot (enhanced)] [©2003 RCAHMS segment (enhanced)

Also in episode 205, Claire and Jamie’s old flame, Annalise de Marillac, strolled through the Gardens

of Versailles together. Those scenes were filmed at Drummond Castle Gardens (Site #29). Upon

completing their stroll, however, the ladies exited the gardens via a gate at Gosford House.

For filming, the Gosford House wrought iron gates were painted a shiny copper color, the

crowns at each panel’s center were gilded, and a couple of topiary‐topped urns were installed next to

them. Apart from that, this gate looks exactly as it did on screen.

…

The Helwater Manor vs Ellesmere Manor Conundrum Several Internet resources erroneously identify Hopetoun House (Site #37) as having played the

Dunsany family’s Helwater Manor in Season 3’s 4th episode, “Of Lost Things,” describing Gosford

House as playing Ellesmere Manor in that episode. In reality, each of these stately Scottish manors

were used to film both Helwater and Ellesmere locations for episode 304.

Hopetoun House was used to film:

The main entrance to Ellesmere Manor

The Helwater Manor stables

One Helwater Manor interior setting

Gosford House was used to film:

The main entrance to Helwater Manor

All Ellesmere Manor interior settings

…


28

Gosford House Interior Film Sites All but one of the Ellesmere Manor interior scenes were shot within the glorious Marble Hall of

Gosford House.

“Inside, the building exceeds the expectations raised by its elegant exterior. The Marble Hall, in

the south wing, is arguably the most arresting of its many fine features. It was completed in 1891

by William Young for the tenth Earl of Wemyss and rises to a height of three storeys, with a

magnificent double staircase leading to a surrounding picture gallery. The elaborate fireplace,

alabaster colonnades and ornate plasterwork reflect the strong Italianate taste of the tenth Earl,

while the Palladian screen of Venetian windows are reminiscent of Adam’s original designs.”

http://www.gosfordhouse.co.uk/house‐tours‐grounds/

[Outlander screenshot segment (enhanced)] [Internet‐posted pic ©unknown (enhanced)]

Above left, Isobel and her maid are rushing through Ellesmere Manor to reach the bedside of her

sister, Geneva, who has just given birth. If you look closely, you’ll notice that much of the real‐world

furniture found in the area of the Marble Hall’s ground floor fireplace was left in place for filming.

…

[Outlander Season 3 screenshot (enhanced)]


29

After learning that Geneva’s child was a healthy boy—that he had a son—Jamie was wandering the

estate his son would someday inherit. The loggia is where he discovered Isobel Dunsany in tears.

…

Please Note: The statue‐lined loggia beneath the western balcony of Gosford House (a Season 3 film

site) is not included on the Public Open Day tour. Access to the enclosed lawn on the western side of

Gosford House—the Season 2 Versailles film site—also is not allowed on a Public Open Day.

If the majority of those in your tour group are Outlander fans, however, it wouldn’t hurt to ask for

an escort to these areas! Guides may be willing to deviate from the standard tour if enough interest is

shown.

…

The Outlandish Gosford Grounds Tour Conundrum The Gosford Grounds & Policies map identifies two series of public paths on the estate: the Ponds

Walk and the Dowager’s (“Dowdy”) Walk. Unfortunately, none of these paths lead to a place where

you can view the exterior Gosford House film sites.

Thanks to Google Maps UK (above), we know that there are several additional paths on the estate—

established drives and lanes—that do lead around the house. Thanks to online visitor blogs and a

YouTube video, we also know that people have walked these paths on Non‐Open‐House days.

Based on this information, we developed a map identifying a route that would allow

Outlanderites to view both sides of the house—from a respectful distance—on Non‐Open‐House

days. Unfortunately, our suggested route was soundly rejected. According to the estate

representative with whom we corresponded:

“The map that comes with the [Grounds] permit and that is on our website indicates the paths

that are open to the public. Gosford House and the estate is a private residence which is why

these paths have been selected—to allow access to the public whilst maintaining privacy for the

owners. Please do not augment this map with additional paths. Thank you.”

We certainly do not wish to trespass upon the privacy of the Charteris family, or disturb the privacy

of others who live and work on the estate! But, there’s another conundrum.

Those who purchase a Public Open Day ticket are granted access to the grounds after the tour.

The Gosford House Pleasure Grounds & Policies map does not provide directions for reaching

the public grounds paths from the Public Open Day car park (the courtyard at the south end of

the house).


30

Thus, we created the Gosford House guide seen below.

This map is intended to assist those visiting on a Public Open House day. It contains a few numbered

sites that correspond with the Gosford Grounds & Policies map, to help you find your way. It also

identifies the exterior Outlander film sites.

[Underlying map segment ©2018 Google Maps UK (enhanced)]

Map Key:

…

Driving Directions

On Non‐Open‐House days, go to the Gosford Bothy Farm Shop.

Coordinates: 56.003715, ‐2.871083

Address: Gosford Bothy Farm Shop, Gosford, Longniddry EH32 0PX

On Public Open Days, go to the North Lodge Gate.

Coordinates: 55.998299, ‐2.884519

Address: Gosford House, Longniddry EH32 0PX, UK

…


31

Roslin Glen Ruins: Site #53

An Outlander Season One Film Site

Approximately 8 miles south of Edinburgh, just beyond the village of Roslin, is the Roslin Glen

Country Park. It contains a wonderful wooded glen that flanks the twisting, turning River North Esk.

Settled by the Bronze Age, Roslin Glen is the largest surviving tract of ancient woodland in the

Midlothian Council area of Scotland. Over two hundred species of flowering plants and sixty species

of breeding birds have been recorded here.

…

Footage for Outlander episode 109, “The Reckoning,” was shot next to the Old Mill Lade ruins at the

glen’s southwestern end—the building where the mill’s gigantic water wheel was mounted.


When the Old Mill Lade ruins were seen on screen, Jamie and his merry band of MacKenzies had just

risked life and limb to rescue Claire from Fort William—plucking her from the evil clutches of Black

Jack Randall. This is where they rested their horses, and where Jamie and Claire had the first major

fight of their marriage.

Jamie: Are you all right? Randall. He, he didna hurt you?

Claire: No, he didn’t have time, thanks to you.

Jamie: I’m waiting for you to say something, anything that approaches an apology.


32

Claire: An apology? I was taken hostage by Jack Randall. Are you trying to say that’s somehow

my fault?

Jamie: Well, it is your fault. Had you stayed put where I ordered you to stay, none of this would

have happened. Ah, but no. … Why mind me? I am no but yer husband. Ye take it into yer mind

to do as ye damn please, and next I ken, I find ye flat on yer back with yer skirts up and the worst

scum of the land between yer legs about to take ye before my very eyes.

Claire: I begged you to take me with you. I told you there was no danger in me going along.

Would you listen to me? No. No, I’m only a woman. … As long as I’m there to warm your bed,

you don’t care what I think or how I feel. That’s all a wife is to you, something to stick your cock

into whenever you feel the urge.

[©2012 Gavin Nicholson segment (enhanced)] [Outlander Season 1 screenshot segment (enhanced)]

The scene where Jamie collapsed in frustration and despair, exclaiming, “Ye’re tearing my guts out,

Claire!” was shot in a little nook formed by what once was the mill’s tailrace.

…

The Roslin Glen Ruins Outlander film site earns a Great Site rating because it looks exactly as it

did on screen, and can be visited quickly—60 to 90 minutes should suffice. That said, the greatest

challenge when planning your Roslin Glen Ruins visit is this:

How could you possibly come so close to

Rosslyn Chapel and the Rosslyn Castle Ruins

without also seeing those sites?!

If you can afford to spend an additional 2 or 3 hours in the Roslin area, visit the links included in the

sections below to learn more about Rosslyn Chapel and Rosslyn Castle.


33

[©2015 Rosslyn Chapel Trust segment (enhanced)]

…

Time & Travel: Roslin Glen Ruins

Visiting Time

The Roslin Glen Ruins film site: 60 to 90 minutes

Rosslyn Chapel: 2 hours (this includes a quick trip to the visitor centre and shop)

Rosslyn Castle: 60 to 90 minutes

Hours of Operation

Roslin Glen and public portions of the Rosslyn Castle ruins are accessible from sunrise to sunset,

every day of the year.

Rosslyn Chapel Hours of Operation

https://www.rosslynchapel.com/visit/

June through August:

Mondays to Saturdays, 9:30am to 6pm

Sundays, 12 noon to 4:45pm

September through May:

Mondays to Saturdays, 9:30am to 5pm

Sundays, 12 noon to 4:45pm

Last admission is 30 minutes before closing.

The Chapel and Visitor Centre are closed on December 24th & 25th, December 31st & January 1st.

Rosslyn Chapel is a working church and may close occasionally for weddings or funerals. Details

regarding special closures (including those related to weather) are posted on the Chapel’s

Facebook page. Be sure to check their Facebook site the evening before your visit.

https://www.facebook.com/RosslynChapelTrust

…


34

Additional Rosslyn Chapel Information:

Rosslyn Chapel Guides give informative talks throughout the day, providing an introduction to

the Chapel’s history and main carvings. These usually are scheduled at the following times;

10am, 11am, 12:15pm, 2pm, 3pm & 4pm on Mondays through Saturdays.

1pm, 2pm & 3pm on Sundays.

Free leaflets, which include maps showing the main carvings, are available in English, French,

German, Spanish, Italian, Dutch, Polish, Russian, Mandarin and Japanese.

Please note that no photography is allowed inside the Chapel, as this can distract and inconvenience other visitors. There is no restriction on exterior photography for personal use.

An audio guide is available for visually impaired visitors. Please ask for the audio description

handset on arrival.

An audio guide with a signed tour of the chapel is also available for visitors who use BSL.

No dogs, apart from assistance dogs, are allowed in the Chapel, its grounds or visitor centre.

Admission Fees

There is no admission fee for visiting Roslin Glen or the public portions of Rosslyn Castle’s ruins.

Rosslyn Chapel (and Visitor Centre) Admission Fees:

Adult: £9

Concession: £7

(Proof may be requested for visitors over 60, the unemployed, students, or members of the

Armed Forces.)

Children in a family group: Free

…

Roslin Glen Maps To help Outlanderites reach the Roslin Glen Ruins film site efficiently, we created an Outlandish

Roslin Glen Ruins map. A full page version of the map seen below is posted free of charge on the Part

5 OutlanderLinks directory of our website.

http://OutlandishScotland.com/53RoslinGlenMap.pdf

…

Thus ends the Outlandish Scotland Journey Part 5 eBook SAMPLE. We hope you enjoyed it!

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Part 5 Preview - outlandishscotland.comoutlandishscotland.com/wp-content/uploads/Part5Sample.pdf · Edinburgh Castle, Site #39 Signet Library, Site #40 Tweeddale Court, Site #41 The