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Theory of branched flows and the statistics of extreme waves in random media Ragnar Fleischmann MPI for Dynamics and Self-Organization Göttingen Catastrophes, Caustics and the statistics of extreme waves Branching of Tsunami waves Teasers/outlook Part II

Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

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Page 1: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Theory of branched flowsand the statistics of extreme waves in random media

Ragnar FleischmannMPI for Dynamics and Self-Organization

Göttingen

• Catastrophes, Caustics and the statistics of extreme waves

• Branching of Tsunami waves

• Teasers/outlook

Part II

Page 2: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Overview

Part I

• The phenomenon of branching

• In which systems can it be observed?

• Statistics of random caustics

• Characteristic transport length scale

• Wave intensity/height statistics

Part II

• Catastrophes, Caustics and the statistics of extreme waves

• Branching of Tsunami waves

• Teasers/outlook

Page 3: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Overview

Part I

• The phenomenon of branching

• In which systems can it be observed?

• Statistics of random caustics

• Characteristic transport length scale

• Wave intensity/height statistics

Part II

• Catastrophes, Caustics and the statistics of extreme waves

• Branching of Tsunami waves

• Teasers/outlook

Page 4: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

22

2

2

2

( )I

I Ix

I

variance of the intensity

mean intensity

Scintillation index

Propagation distance

2 ( )I x

Page 5: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Theory of intensity statistics

Propagation distance

Predictions for the intensity distribution in branched flows:

• Log-normal distributionWolfson & Tomsovic JASA 2001

• Power-law tailsKaplan PRL 2002

2 ( )I x

Page 6: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Theory of intensity statistics

saturated fluctuations=

random waves regime

Propagation distance

• Saturated regime reached long before the mean free path!

2 ( )I x

strong fluctuations

Page 7: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Random waves intensity

2 2

2 2 2

1 2 1 2 with z and z Gaussian distributed

j j

j

j

j

j

j

j

j

j

a

I a z

i b

zb

1( )

I

IP I e

I

Rayleigh distributedP I

random wave intensities are exponentially distributed

Page 8: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Theory of intensity statistics

saturated fluctuations=

random waves regime

Propagation distance

• Saturated regime reached long before the mean free path!

2 ( )I x

strong fluctuations

Page 9: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Saturated fluctuations

Page 10: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Classical/ray-intensity

(0)y

(0)yv

( )y t

( )yv t

0 0

0

0 0

( , )

y y

y v

v v

y v

M t t

1

0

log-normally distributed?y

y

0

0

( (, ) 1, )n

n i i

i

M t tM t t

Michael A. Wolfson and Steven Tomsovic, J. Acoust. Soc. Am. 109, 2693 (2001).

0Tr ( , ) follows a log-normal-distributionM t t

Page 11: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Classical/ray-intensity

Page 12: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Intensity statistics

Page 13: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Intensity fluctuations governed by coherence

Metzger, et al, Phys. Rev. Lett. 111, 013901 (2013).

Page 14: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Theory of intensity statistics

saturated fluctuations=

random waves regime

Propagation distance

• Saturated regime reached long before the mean free path!

• Coherent waves show Rayleigh distribution

• Decoherent waves show log-normal distribution

• Theory for all degrees of coherence

J.J. Metzger, R. Fleischman, T. Geisel PRL 2013 2 ( )I x

strong fluctuations

Page 15: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Theory of intensity statistics

Propagation distance

Predictions for the intensity distribution in branched flows:

• Log-normal distributionWolfson & Tomsovic JASA 2001

Metzger, Fleischmann, Geisel PRL 2013

• Power-law tailsKaplan PRL 2002

2 ( )I x

saturated fluctuations=

random waves regime

strong fluctuations

Page 16: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

( )1

cl

c

yy

Iy

Ray-Intensity at a Caustic

3( )p I I

2( ' ) ' ( ')I

P I I dI p I I

Page 17: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Classical/Ray-Intensity

P(I)

I

107 bins per lc

2I

Page 18: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Ray- and Wave-Intensity at a Caustic

1

2( ) ( )cl cy y yI

( ) ( )qm

yI y Ai

3( )p I I 2( ' ) ' ( ')I

P I I dI p I I

Page 19: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Theory of intensity statistics

Propagation distance

Power-law tails due to caustics only for extreme scale separation

2 ( )I x

strong fluctuations regime

Page 20: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Theory of intensity statistics

Propagation distance

Power-law tails due to caustics only for extreme scale separation

2 ( )I x

strong fluctuations regime

Page 21: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Theory of intensity statistics

Propagation distance

Power-law tails due to caustics only for extreme scale separation

610c

2 ( )I x

strong fluctuations regime

Page 22: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Theory of intensity statistics

Propagation distance

2 ( )I x

strong fluctuations regime 2I

I

P(I’>I)

Page 23: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Overview

Part I

• The phenomenon of branching

• In which systems can it be observed?

• Statistics of random caustics

• Characteristic transport length scale

• Wave intensity/height statistics

Part II

• Catastrophes, Caustics and the statistics of extreme waves

• Branching of Tsunami waves

• Teasers/outlook

Page 24: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Catastrophe theory

• Bifurcations from a different perspective.

• Studying singularities (discontinuities) of gradient maps

• Thom, Arnold & Zeemann

• Most important result: classification theorem (Thom’s Theorem)

Potential/Lyapunov-Function ( , )S C

0

Page 25: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

The cusp catastrophe

Zeeman, E.C., 1976. Catastrophe Theory. Scientific American 65–83. doi:10.1038/scientificamerican0476-65

Page 26: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Zeeman's Catastrophe Machine in Flash by Daniel J. Crosshttp://lagrange.physics.drexel.edu/flash/zcm/

Page 27: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Classification

Zeeman, E.C., 1976. Catastrophe Theory. Scientific American 65–83.

Example: the cusp

Example: the fold

Page 28: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Catastrophe optics

Berry & Upstill 1980J. F. Nye, Natural Focusing and Fine Structure of Light: Caustics and Wave Dislocations, IOP, 1999

C=(X,Y)

S=(x(s),y(s))

( , ) ( , , )s C s X Y

Potential

( , , )0

s X Y

s

raysC S

optical path length

Page 29: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Heller europhys.news 2005

“...nothing more catastrophic than the loss of two rays occurs. Nevertheless, the word catastrophe has been retained.” J.F. Nye in Natural focusing and the fine structure of light.

Caustics

Caustics are the catastrophes of ray optics with

Berry & Upstill, 1980

Example cusp

Example fold

2 3

2 30 ...

s s

Page 30: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Wave amplitude near the fold caustic: diffraction

( ),

diffraction integral

( ) d i k x XJ X xe

31,

3

normal form of the fol

( )

d caustic

x X x X x

1/2

1/3 2/3 1/32( ) AiikRkX k e k X

iR

Fold at distance R from the initial wave front

R X

( ) ( )X J X

Page 31: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Wave amplitude near the fold caustic: diffraction

X0

1/2

1/3 2/3 1/32( ) AiikRkX k e k X

iR

Page 32: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Reminder: characteristics of the random medium

22 )1

( ) (V r V r

E

Random potential

E

( )V r

Kinetic energy of the particlesEnergy

c= correlation length,

i.e. typical length scalec

c

Page 33: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Reminder: characteristic length scale

Propagation distanceJ.J. Metzger, R. Fleischmann, and T. Geisel, Phys. Rev. Lett. 105 (2010).

/ bx

2/3

b c

x

1

2

mfp c≪ mean free pathbranching length

#Caustics( )

2 Lengthbr xN

c

wavelength

𝑁𝑏𝑟(x

)/𝜎3

𝜎2

Page 34: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Theory of intensity statistics

Propagation distance

• power-law tails only in semi-classical limit (not realistic)

• intensity distribution still unknown but

Analytic result for the distribution of extreme (rogue) waves

2 ( )I x

strong fluctuations regime

J. J. Metzger, R.Fleischmann, and T. Geisel, PRL 112, 203903 (2014).

Page 35: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

The statistics of extreme (rogue) waves

Page 36: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

The statistics of extreme (rogue) waves

Page 37: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

The statistics of extreme (rogue) waves

main propagation direction

L

J. J. Metzger, R.Fleischmann, and T. Geisel, PRL 112 (2014)

Page 38: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

The statistics of extreme (rogue) waves

Y0y

Mapping branched flow on catastrophe optics

(see e.g. J. F. Nye, Natural Focusing and Fine Structure of Light: Caustics and Wave Dislocations, IOP Publishing, 1999).

3

0 0 0

1,

3( )Y Yyy y

J. J. Metzger, R.Fleischmann, and T. Geisel, PRL 112 (2014)

23( )

2 3

yf y y

R

2

1

R

2 2v t

2/3

2/3

22

1c

c

c

t

bR

1/2

1/3 2/3 1/32( ) AiikRkX k e k X

iR

normal form of the fold caustic

Page 39: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

The statistics of extreme (rogue) waves

Y0yMapping branched flow on catastrophe optics

(see e.g. J. F. Nye, Natural Focusing and Fine Structure of Light: Caustics and Wave Dislocations, IOP Publishing, 1999).

2 1/3 2/9

fold fold ( , , ) ( / )c cI k

J. J. Metzger, R.Fleischmann, and T. Geisel, PRL 112 (2014)

12 2/3

b

bR

0

2/3

0b c cv t v

Page 40: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

The statistics of extreme (rogue) waves

main propagation direction

L

J. J. Metzger, R.Fleischmann, and T. Geisel, PRL 112 (2014)

1/3 2/9scale with ( / )max cI

Page 41: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

The statistics of extreme (rogue) waves

[( )/ ]1/3 1/3 2/9( / [ ] )a

maxI m s

c maxP I I e

J. J. Metzger, R.Fleischmann, and T. Geisel, PRL 112 (2014)

• extreme value statistics

• Stochastic nonlinear dynamics

• diffraction

• interference

Distribution of highest waves

wavelength

Page 42: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

11 March 2011

Do tsunami waves show branching?

NOAA 2011

Page 43: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Do tsunamis show branching?

1500km

1500km

Standard deviation of the ocean depth < 7%

Page 44: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Do tsunamis show branching?

Standard deviation of ocean depth /mean ocean depth ≈ 7%

Page 45: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Do tsunamis show branching?

Page 46: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Tsunami created by a fault source

Page 47: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Degueldre

Scaling of shallow water waves height fluctuations

2 2

0

2 2

, 1 (

0

) ,

t r t c r r t

ray caustics statistics

Wave scintillation

Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß

Ray equations

2

0 1 ( )

( )

2 1 ( )

r c q

q

r

r

r

2/3

Degueldre, Metzger, Geisel, Fleischmann, submitted

Page 48: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

11 March 2011

Only of academic interest?

NOAA 2011

Page 49: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Degueldre

Scaling of shallow water waves height fluctuations

2 2

0

2 2

, 1 (

0

) ,

t r t c r r t

ray caustics statistics

Wave scintillation

Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß

Ray equations

2

0 1 ( )

( )

2 1 ( )

r c q

q

r

r

r

2/3

Degueldre, Metzger, Geisel, Fleischmann, submitted

Page 50: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Model of the ocean floor

http://www.gebco.net/general_interest/faq/

Page 51: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Model of the ocean floor

Sandwell, D.T., Gille, S.T., and W.H.F.Smith, eds., Bathymetry from Space: Oceanography, Geophysics, andClimate, Geoscience Professional Services, Bethesda, Maryland, June 2002

“Topography [...] derived from sparse ship soundings and satellite altimeter measurements reveals the large-scale structures created by seafloor spreading (ridges and transforms) but the horizontal resolution (15 km) and vertical accuracy (250 m) is poor.”

What is the “State-of-the-Art“?

250𝑚

4 𝑘𝑚> 6%

Page 52: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Add fluctuations to the recorded depth profile < error

A precise knowledge of the ocean's bathymetry, beyond todays accuracy, is absolutely indispensable for reliable tsunami forecasts

Page 53: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

In collaboration with...

Jakob Metzger

Henri Degueldre

Theo Geisel

Page 54: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

External Collaborators

Theory

Eric Heller

Scot Shaw

(Harvard Univ.)

Experiment

Marc Topinka

Brian LeRoy

Robert Westervelt

(Harvard Univ.)

Denis MaryenkoJürgen SmetKlaus von Klitzing(MPI-FKF Stuttgart)

Sonja BarkhofenUlrich KuhlHans-Jürgen Stöckmann(Univs. Marburg & Nice)

DFG

Forschergruppe FOR760

Page 55: Part II - TU Dresden...ray caustics statistics Wave scintillation Linearized shallow water wave equations in random bathymetry ß Ray equations 2 0 1 () 21 r c q q r r r E E E v H

Ragnar Fleischmann Max-Planck-Institut für Dynamik und Selbstorganisation

Conclusions

• General phenomenon of wave propagation in weakly scattering media

• Universal statistics of branches

• Fundamental length scale of transport in disordered systems

• Scaling of peak position in the scintillation index

• Experimental observation ofscaling behavior

• Branching leads to heavy-tailed intensity distribution: rogue waves

• Theory of extreme waves

• Branching of tsunami waves

• Tsunami forecasts

J.J. Metzger, R. Fleischmann, and T. Geisel, Phys. Rev. Lett. 105, 020601 (2010).

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