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P A R T O N E
U N D E R S TA N D I N GA L A S K A
The LAST FRONTIERE V E RY T H I N G I S B I G I N A L A S K A .
The fish are huge. The mountains are tall. The rivers are wide. Gofishing or hiking, and these symbols of grandness can be rationallycomprehended. They can be measured and photographed and braggedabout when you get back home. It’s an adventure traveler’s paradise.
But to fully comprehend just what big means in Alaska, considerthis: while you can drive your car across some continental U.S. statesin a few hours, here it would take you that much time in a jet to getfrom end to end.
What this translates to is a land that offers unlimited opportunitiesfor the traveler who is willing to get off the beaten track and explore thenooks and crannies that make Alaska remarkable. Whether it’s a deepfjord or a meandering river, a massive icefield or a steep mountain,Alaska is where the most adventurous of travelers are drawn.
The Unofficial Guide to Adventure Travel in Alaska offers yousome insight into this vast land with a section-by-section outline ofthe state’s best outdoor adventures—from rafting a Class V river andclimbing a 15,000-foot mountain to hiking a scenic trail and cyclingacross the state. We realize that Alaska’s vastness alone makes italluring to the thousands of adventure travelers who come here eachyear, but we also know from experience that it can be an overwhelm-ing place to take in all at once.
Alaska is the largest state in the union: one-fifth the size of the contiguous United States and larger than California, Montana, and Texascombined. The land is tremendous, covering some 586,000 square miles.It is home to North America’s tallest mountain—Mount McKinley, alsoknown as Denali—and many other peaks that are among the highest inthe United States. Statistics are even more mind-boggling: Alaska is hometo some 3,000 rivers, 10,000 glaciers, and, incredibly, more than 3 million
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HTED M
ATERIAL
lakes. And wildlife roams through it all: bears, moose, and, in the waters,whales and fish.
Yet Alaska is one of the least populated states in the country, withonly about 680,000 residents, most of them living in the state’s threelargest cities and outlying areas.
These qualities combined give the outdoor traveler even moreincentive to come here. Here is a place where, despite progress and allthat comes with it—high-rises, cell phones, buses, cars—you can stillreach the wilderness relatively easily. Think about this: it is entirelyconceivable to land at one of Alaska’s international airports, grab ataxi, and drive as few as five miles to the nearest state wilderness park.Pay the driver, slip on your backpack, and your adventure has begun.It really doesn’t get any better than this.
Of course, there are many more-elaborate trips that can be takenin Alaska, and those are the ones of which truly memorable momentsare made. But it’s fun to imagine that there still exists in the UnitedStates a place where the wilderness remains so predominant.
More than a century ago, Alaska’s population wasn’t nearly aslarge as it is today, but the arrival of the gold rush brought people bythe thousands, setting the foundation for today’s population. Whenhardy miners, searching the land and water for glistening rock, hitthe jackpot in the late 1800s, this harsh land suddenly had somethingirresistible to offer. Prospectors flocked here in search of riches beyondtheir wildest dreams. Some found them; others died trying.
Today, adventure travelers the world over come to Alaska with thesame zeal those prospectors had, only what they seek is priceless. It isAlaska’s unyielding beauty that draws visitors, who come to climb itshighest peaks, travel its longest rivers, and visit its most isolated villages.They drive limited roads, photograph plentiful wildlife, and cruiseglacier-studded waterways. After experiencing the Last Frontier, thosevisitors often become residents. And it’s easy to understand why.
The landscape of Alaska was wild and awe-inspiring for millenniabefore the discovery of gold, and it has remained so since. Indigenouspeoples were first to recognize the grandeur of this place. They wor-shiped the land for the riches it gave: not gold, but food and shelter.Despite the challenges of this extreme country, they survived andthrived. Today, their songs and stories tell of a time when they spokedirectly to the land and the land spoke back.
Early outsiders like authors Jack London and Robert Service alsoappreciated the country for its rugged splendor. Their stories andpoems romanticize the place, and can we argue with them? If weimagine London, cozy in his Yukon cabin, watching the aurora bore-alis on a frigid winter evening, it’s no surprise that he was inspired topen his classic book The Call of the Wild.
After all these years, the world has realized that the true wealth ofAlaska remains. In contrast to our cramped and hurried lives, in
T H E L A ST F RO N T I E R 7
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�To Seattle
KenaiANCHORAGE
Skagway
Whitehorse
Cordova
Kodiak
Whittier
PalmerWasilla
Tok
DeltaJunction
ManleyHot Springs
Nenana
Talkeetna
Willow
Bettles
Soldotna
Seward
Kotzebue
Dillingham
KingSalmon
Unalakleet
Galena
McGrath
YUKON
BRITISHCOLUMBIA
Uni
ted
Stat
esC
anad
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Kenai FjordsNational Park
Cape KrusensternNational Monument
Arctic NationalWildlife Refuge
Nome
ColdBay
Atka
Adak
Bering Sea
Attu Island
Adak IslandAtka Island
UnimakIsland
Rat IslandsCapeSt. Stephen
sdnalsInaituelA
NunivakIsland
PribilofIslands
ChukchiSea
NortonSound
BristolBay
A l a s k a
P e n i n s u l a
BethelBethelBethel
Eagle
Coldfoot
reviRmiwkoksuK
reviRnoku
Y
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Brooks Range
Arctic Circle
Fort GlenFort Glen
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AnaktuvukPass
Dal
ton
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Un
ited
Sta
tes
Juneau
Admiralty IslandNational Monument
Petersburg
Wrangell
MILEAGECHART
(approximate driving distances in miles
between cities)
Halibut CoveHomer
Katmai NationalPark and Preserve
UnalaskaUnalaska
Yukon DeltaYukon DeltaNational WildlifeNational Wildlife
RefugeRefuge
Yukon DeltaYukon DeltaNational WildlifeNational Wildlife
RefugeRefuge
Prince Rupert,B.C.
Misty FjordsNational Monument
KetchikanCraig
Sitka
Gustavus
LittleDiomedeIsland
Lake Clark NationalPark and Preserve
Mt. McKinley
DenaliNational Park
A l a s k a
Bering Land BridgeNational Preserve
Noatak NationalPreserve
Fort Yukon
Circle
FairbanksNorth Pole
McCarthyWrangell–St. EliasNational Park and Preserve
GlennallenWrangell Mts.
Kobuk ValleyNational Park
CANADA
Valdez
Dawson City
ChenaHot Springs Yukon-Charley Rivers
National Preserve
Dempste
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ited
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304 526 427 364 701 530 853 2,169 758430428 254
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775 815 620 653 1,001 1,142 901 447 701548 3591,774
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520
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Fairbanks
Haines
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Skagway
Tok
Dawson City
Seattle
Valdez
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Yukon DeltaNational Wildlife
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Yukon DeltaNational Wildlife
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Gates of the ArcticNational Park and Preserve
Yukon FlatsNational Wildlife
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Haines
alaska
8 PA RT 1 U N D E R STA N D I N G A L A S K A
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Coo
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�To SeattleTo Seattle �
Yakutat
KenaiKenaiANCHORAGEANCHORAGE
SkagwaySkagway
WhitehorseWhitehorse
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KodiakKodiak
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TokTok
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BRITISHBRITISHCOLUMBIACOLUMBIA
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Barrow
Kodiak Island
Admiralty IslandBaranof Island
Chichagof Island
Alaska Marine Highway
Prince of Wales Island
Arctic Ocean
Gulf of Alaska
PrinceWilliamSound
PrudhoeBay
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To Seattle
Glacier Bay NationalPark and Preserve
Aniakchak NationalMonument and Preserve
7
2
46
4
11
1
1Bethel
SkagwayHaines
Whitehorse
PalmerWasilla
Tok
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Kenai FjordsNational Park
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reviRmiwkoksuK
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O C E A N
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ited
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ited
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ited
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JuneauJuneauJuneau
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100 mi0
0 100 kmN
1
Paved roadState or provincial route
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KenaiANCHORAGE
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Unalaska
Yukon DeltaNational Wildlife
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Yukon DeltaNational Wildlife
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CANADACANADA
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8
2
5
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9
34
8
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ited
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ited
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Gates of the ArcticNational Park and Preserve
Yukon FlatsNational Wildlife
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HainesHainesHaines
A L A S K A OV E RV I EW M A P S 9
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KENAI FJORDSKENAI FJORDSNATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARKKENAI FJORDS
NATIONAL PARK
WRANGELLWRANGELL–ST. ELIASST. ELIASNATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARKAND PRESERVEAND PRESERVE
WRANGELL–ST. ELIASNATIONAL PARKAND PRESERVE
DENALIDENALINATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARKAND PRESERVEAND PRESERVE
DENALINATIONAL PARKAND PRESERVE
G u l f o f A l a s k a
P a c i f i c O c e a n
Tanana River
Cape Yakataga
ChickenChickenChicken
ChistochinaChistochinaChistochina
ChitinaChitinaChitina
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SlanaSlanaSlana
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TetlinTetlinJunctionJunctionTetlinJunction
Tonsina
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y
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Talkeetna
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ALASKA
U.S
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25 mi0
0 25 km
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CANOEINGLynx Lake Loop
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1.2.
3.
4.5.6.7.
CYCLINGAnchorage–ValdezBird–Gird TrailEklutna LakeHatcher PassKenai Peninsula TourTony Knowles Coastal Trail
DAY HIKINGBird RidgeFlattop
8.9.
10.11.12.13.
14.15.
Gold Mint TrailPioneer Ridge– Austin HelmersReed LakesWinner Creek Gorge
DOG MUSHINGChugach Express Dog Sled Tours
FISHINGCopper River Basin
16.17.
18.19.
20.
21.
JuneauJuneauJuneau
KetchikanKetchikanKetchikan
SitkaSitkaSitkaKenaiKenaiKenai CordovaCordovaAnchorage
Fairbanks
SouthcentralInland Alaska
Cordova
5
43
2
1
10
9
8
7
6
15
14
13
12
11
20 19
18
17
16
21
southcentral inland alaska
1 0 PA RT 1 U N D E R STA N D I N G A L A S K A
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southcentral coastal alaska
A L A S K A OV E RV I EW M A P S 1 1
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MISTY FIORDS MISTY FIORDSNATIONALNATIONAL
MONUMENTMONUMENT
MISTY FIORDSNATIONAL
MONUMENT
CraigCraigCraig
Elfin CoveElfin CoveElfin Cove
Excursion InletExcursion InletExcursion Inlet
Hawk InletHawk InletHawk Inlet
HydaburgHydaburgHydaburg
KakeKakeKake
KlawakKlawakKlawak
KlukwanKlukwanKlukwan
MetlakatlaMetlakatlaMetlakatla
PelicanPelicanPelican
PointPointBakerBakerPointBaker
PortPortAlexanderAlexander
PortAlexander
SkagwaySkagwaySkagway
Tenakee SpringsTenakee SpringsTenakee Springs
Yakutat
YukonYukonRiver
River
YukonRiver
TeslinTeslinLakeLakeTeslinLake
WrangellWrangellWrangell
PrincePrinceRupertRupertPrinceRupert
SitkaSitkaSitka
PetersburgPetersburgPetersburg
JuneauJuneauJuneau
YUKON TERRITORYYUKON TERRITORY
BRITISH COLUMBIABRITISH COLUMBIA
YUKON TERRITORY
BRITISH COLUMBIABRITISHCOLUMBIA
ALASKA
ALASKACANADA
BRITISH COLUMBIA
U.S.A.
25 mi0
0 25 km
BaranofBaranofIslandIsland
BaranofIsland
KuiuKuiuIslandIslandKuiu
Island
KupreanofKupreanofIslandIsland
KupreanofIsland
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WalesWalesIslandIsland
Princeof
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GrahamGrahamIslandIsland
GrahamIsland
ChichagofChichagofIslandIsland
ChichagofIsland
KetchikanKetchikanKetchikan
HainesHainesHainesG u l f o fA l a s k a
P A C I F I CO C E A N
JuneauJuneauJuneau
Ketchikan
SitkaKenaiKenaiKenai
CordovaCordovaAnchorage
Fairbanks
SoutheastAlaska
Cordova
GLACIER BAY GLACIER BAYNATIONALNATIONALPARK ANDPARK ANDPRESERVEPRESERVE
GLACIER BAYNATIONALPARK ANDPRESERVE
BACKPACKINGChilkoot Pass
BIRDINGDredge LakesEagle River HainesMendenhall WetlandsPoint Bridget State Park
CAR TRIPSHaines and Skagway
CYCLINGEast Glacier TrailHaines–SkagwayPrince of Wales Island
DAY HIKINGMt. RileyWest GlacierDeer MountainIndian River
FISHINGTenakee Springs
SEA KAYAKINGGlacier Bay
1.
2.3.4.5.6.
7.
8.9.
10.
11.12.13.14.
15.
16.
54
3
2
1
10
9
8
7
6
15
14
13
12
1116
southeast alaska
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KENAI FJORDS KENAI FJORDSNATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARK KENAI FJORDS
NATIONAL PARK
LAKE CLARKLAKE CLARKNATIONALNATIONALPARK ANDPARK ANDPRESERVEPRESERVE
LAKE CLARKNATIONALPARK ANDPRESERVE
WRANGELL–ST. ELIASPRESERVE
NATIONAL PARK
DENALI NATIONALDENALI NATIONALPARK AND PRESERVEPARK AND PRESERVE
DENALI NATIONALPARK AND PRESERVE
YUKON-CHARLEYYUKON-CHARLEYRIVERSRIVERS
NATIONALNATIONALMONUMENTMONUMENT
YUKON-CHARLEYRIVERS
NATIONALMONUMENT
GATES OF THE ARCTICGATES OF THE ARCTICNATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARKAND PRESERVEAND PRESERVE
GATES OF THE ARCTICNATIONAL PARKAND PRESERVE
B e a u f o r tS e a
G u l f o fA l a s k a
YukonRiver
YukonRiver
Porcupine River
Colville
River
Koyukuk
River
Kuskokwim
River Tanana
R iver
Anaktuvuk PassAnaktuvuk PassAnaktuvuk Pass
Beaver
Big Delta
CapeCapeYakatagaYakataga
CapeYakataga
Central
Chalkyitsik
Chicken
ChistochinaChistochinaChistochina
ChitinaChitinaChitina
Circle
Circle HotSprings
Copper CenterCopper CenterCopper Center
CordovaCordovaCordova
Delta Junction
Eagle
GakonaGlennallenGlennallenGlennallen GulkanaGulkanaGulkana
Kaktovik
MccarthyMccarthyMcCarthy
Mentasta Lake
NabesnaNabesnaNabesna
NorthwayNorthwayJunctionJunctionNorthwayJunction
Paxson
SlanaSlanaSlana
TanacrossTanacrossTanacross
Tetlin
TetlinTetlinJunctionJunctionTetlinJunction
TonsinaTonsinaTonsina
Venetie
Eagle River
EurekaManleyManley
Hot SpringsHot SpringsManley
Hot Springs
Minto
NorthPole
Rampart
Skwentna
Talkeetna
Tanana
Fort Yukon
WhittierWhittierWhittier
FairbanksFairbanksFairbanks
HomerHomerHomer
Palmer
SewardSewardSeward
ValdezAnchorageAnchorageAnchorage
ALASKA
U.S
.A.
CA
NA
DA
YUKO
N TERRITO
RY
ALA
SKA
25 mi0
0 25 km
JuneauJuneauJuneau
Ketchikan
SitkaKenaiKenaiKenai
CordovaCordovaAnchorage
FairbanksFairbanksFairbanksFairbanks
InteriorAlaska
Cordova
BACKPACKINGChena DomeDenali National Park
BIRDINGFairbanks
CANOEINGCharley RiverChena RiverTangle Lakes– Delta River
1.2.
3.
4.5.6.
CAR TRIPSDenali Highway
CLIMBINGArrigetch PeaksDenali (Mt. McKinley)Mount ForakerMount Hunter
CYCLINGBirch Hill Ski TrailsDalton HighwayDenali Highway
7.
8.9.
10.11.
12.13.14.
Denali Park RoadEster Dome– Alder ChuteTour of the Mining Country
DAY HIKINGAngel RocksGranite TorsLandmark Gap TrailSkookum Volcano
15.16.
17.
18.19.20.21.
DOG MUSHINGChena Dog Sled AdventuresDenali West LodgeEarthsong Lodge and Denali Dogsled ExpeditionsJeff King’s Husky Homestead ToursSourdough Outfitters
22.
23.24.
25.
26.
5
4
3
2
1
109
8
7
6
15
14
13
12
11
20
19
1817
16
25
2423
22
21
26
interior alaska
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Akutan
B e r i n g S e a
P a c i f i c
YukonYukon
RiverRiverYukon
River
Kuskokw
im
Kuskokw
imRive
rRive
r
Kuskokw
imRive
r
Biorka
Kashega
Nikolski
AtkaAtkaAtka
Anvik
False PassFalse PassFalse Pass
Golovin
Gra
King CoveKing CoveKing Cove
KipnukKipnukKipnuk
Kotlik
Kwigillingok
St. George
St. Paul
NapakiakNapakiakNapakiak
PilotStation
St.Michael
Sand PointSand PointSand Point
Shaktoolik
Stebbins
Tanunak
ToksookToksookToksook
Unalakleet
Cold BayCold BayCold Bay
BethelBethelBethel
Nome
UnalaskaUnalaskaUnalaska
RUSSIA
20 mi0
0 20 km
JuneauJuneauJuneau
Ketchikan
SitkaKenaiKenaiKenai
Kodiak
CordovaCordovaAnchorageAnchorageAnchorageAnchorage
Fairbanks
BushSouthwest
Alaska
SeeInset
Cordova
BACKPACKINGLake Clark National Park
BIRDINGNome–Safety SoundThe PribilofsSt. Lawrence Island– Gambell
CANOEINGWood River
SEA KAYAKINGKatmai Coast
1.
2.3.4.
5.
6.
4
3
2
bush southwest alaska
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ANIAKCHAK ANIAKCHAKNATIONALNATIONAL
MONUMENTMONUMENTAND PRESERVEAND PRESERVE
ANIAKCHAKNATIONAL
MONUMENTAND PRESERVE
KATMAI KATMAINATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARKAND PRESERVEAND PRESERVE
KATMAINATIONAL PARKAND PRESERVE
KENAI FJORDS KENAI FJORDSNATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARK KENAI FJORDS
NATIONAL PARK
LAKE CLARK LAKE CLARKNATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARKAND PRESERVEAND PRESERVE
LAKE CLARKNATIONAL PARKAND PRESERVE
DENALI NATIONAL PARKDENALI NATIONAL PARKAND PRESERVEAND PRESERVE
DENALI NATIONAL PARKAND PRESERVE
G u l f o fA l a s k a
B e r i n g S e a
O c e a n
P a c i f i cO c e a n
IliamnaIliamnaLakeLakeIliamnaLake
BecharofBecharofLakeLakeBecharofLake
Kuskokw
im River
Attu
Big Delta
CopperCenter
CordovaCordovaCordova
Delta JunctionDelta JunctionDelta Junction
GakonaGakonaGakona
GlennallenGlennallenGlennallenGulkanaGulkanaGulkana
PaxsonPaxsonPaxsonPaxsonPaxson
Tonsina
AkhiokAkhiokAkhiok
CrookedCreek
Eagle RiverEagle RiverEagle River
Egegik
FlatFlatFlat
GraylingGraylingGrayling
HolyHolyCrossCrossHoly
Cross
Iditarod
IliamnaIliamnaIliamna
Kaltag
Karluk
King SalmonKing SalmonKing Salmon
Larsen Bay
Lime Village
Long
ManokotakManokotakManokotak
McGrath
Medfra
NaknekNaknekNaknek
Nondalton
Old HarborOld HarborOld Harbor
Pedro BayPedro BayPedro Bay
Poorman
Port AlsworthPort AlsworthPort Alsworth
Red Devil
t
Shageluk
Skwentna
SleetmuteSleetmuteSleetmute
Stony RiverStony RiverStony River
Takotna
Talkeetna
WhittierWhittierWhittier
Kodiak
HomerHomerHomer
PalmerPalmerPalmer
SewardSewardSeward
ValdezValdezValdez
Anchorage
DillinghamDillinghamDillingham
Inset
5
1
6
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BERING LAND BRIDGE BERING LAND BRIDGENATIONAL PRESERVENATIONAL PRESERVE
BERING LAND BRIDGENATIONAL PRESERVE
CAPE KRUSENSTERN CAPE KRUSENSTERNNATIONAL MONUMENTNATIONAL MONUMENT CAPE KRUSENSTERN
NATIONAL MONUMENT KONAT
NOATAK NATIONAL PRESERVE NOATAK NATIONAL PRESERVE NOATAK NATIONAL PRESERVE NA NOATAK NATIONAL PRESERVE
A r c t i c A r c t i c
B e r i n g S e aB e r i n g S e a
C h u k c h iS e a
C h u k c h iS e a
Yukon
RiverYukon
River
Kuskokwim
Rive
rKuskok
wim
Rive
r
AnvikAnvikAnvik
Buckland
Kotzebue
Elim
GolovinGolovinGolovin
GraylingGraylingGrayling
Kiana
KipnukKipnukKipnuk
Kivalina
Kotlik
Koyuk
KwigillingokKwigillingokKwigillingok
NapakiakNapakiakNapakiak
Noorvik
Pilot StationPilot StationPilot StationPilot Station
Point Hope
St. Michael
Shaktoolik
StebbinsStebbinsStebbins
Tanunak
Taylor
ToksookToksookToksook
Unalakleet
Wainwright
Wales
BethelBethelBethel
Nome
RUSSIARUSSIARUSSIARUSSIA
20 mi0
0 20 km
St. LawrenceSt. LawrenceIslandIsland
St. LawrenceIsland
NunivakNunivakIslandIsland
NunivakIsland
JuneauJuneauJuneau
Ketchikan
SitkaKenaiKenaiKenai
Kodiak
CordovaCordovaAnchorageAnchorageAnchorageAnchorage
Fairbanks
Bush Far NorthAlaska
Cordova
BIRDINGKougarok Road
CAR TRIPSDalton Highway
CYCLINGAnvil Mountain
DOG MUSHINGJerry Austin’s Alaska Adventures
FISHINGSelby Lake– Kobuk River
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
B r o o k s R a n g e
4
3
1
bush far north alaska
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LAKE CLARKNATIONAL PARKAND PRESERVE
LAKE CLARKNATIONAL PARKAND PRESERVE
LAKE CLARKNATIONAL PARKAND PRESERVE
LAKE CLARKNATIONAL PARKAND PRESERVE
DENALIDENALINATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARKAND PRESERVEAND PRESERVE
DENALINATIONAL PARKAND PRESERVE
KOBUK VALLEY KOBUK VALLEYNATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARK KOBUK VALLEYNATIONAL PARK
GATES OF THE ARCTICGATES OF THE ARCTICNATIONAL PARK AND PRESERVENATIONAL PARK AND PRESERVE
GATES OF THE ARCTICNATIONAL PARK AND PRESERVE
O c e a nO c e a n
Yukon RiverYukon River
Colville RiverColville River
Koyukuk
RiverKoyukuk
River
Kuskokwim
RiverKuskokwim
River
Anaktuvuk PassAnaktuvuk PassAnaktuvuk Pass
Anvik
CrookedCreek
Eagle River
Eureka
Flat
Galena
rayling
Holy CrossHoly CrossHoly Cross
IditarodIditarodIditarod
Kaltag
KokrinesKoyukuk
Lime Village
Long
Manley Hot SpringsManley Hot SpringsManley Hot Springs
McGrath
Medfra
MintoMintoMinto
Nondalton
Nulato
Poorman
Port AlsworthPort AlsworthPort Alsworth
Rampart
RedDevil
Ruby
Shageluk
Skwentna
SleetmuteStony River
TakotnaTakotnaTakotna
Talkeetna
TananaTananaTanana
Whittier
Fairbanks
Barrow
Palmer
Seward
AnchorageAnchorageAnchorage
B r o o k s R a n g eB r o o k s R a n g e
5
2
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which high-rises block the skies, highways bisect the ground, andcrowds fill every space, Alaska lets us breathe, slow down, and appre-ciate the earth. It’s a good way to live.
Unfortunately, the very things that make this state so alluring—itsendless possibilities and unlimited destinations—can also intimidatevisitors who don’t know where to begin. That’s where The UnofficialGuide to Adventure Travel in Alaska comes to the rescue. The most-often-heard lament among travelers to this state is that they didn’tget to see everything they wanted. Believe us, they’re not alone. Thereare lifelong Alaskans who still have not seen the entire state, so what’sthe hurry for those of you seeing it for the first time?
This guide strives to narrow your focus, readjust your internalrules of measurement, and help you see that the vastness of Alaskadoes not have to be overwhelming. Slow down. Enjoy the specialmoments. Watch the sun set behind a snowcapped mountain, or peerthrough binoculars at a pair of bear cubs frolicking on a hillside. Sip
some locally brewed beer and listen to streetmusicians perform. Set up camp and roast somemarshmallows by the fire. Paddle to a remotecove and stop to watch sea otters play.
In other words, think of Alaska as morethan just a one-time vacation. This state is larger than most Europeancountries, and there is no way you’ll be able to see it all in a week, twoweeks, even three.
Take time to absorb the enormousness of a place that still retainsa bit of Last Frontier wildness despite the ever-quickening encroach-ment of progress.
No matter which part of Alaska you visit, you will experience afeeling of vastness. The distinct regions each have their own climate,culture, and geography, with unique opportunities for adventure—from rafting to backpacking to dog mushing to fishing. The one aspectthey all share, however, is room to roam.
A QUICK GLIMPSE at OUR REGIONSW H E N P L A N N I N G A V I S I T TO A L A S K A based on outdoor adventure,the most important question to ask is, “What do I want to do?” Howyou get there, which region of the state you’ll need to go to, and howto organize the logistics will fall into place quite easily after that firstquestion is resolved. The Unofficial Guide to Adventure Travel inAlaska is set up with this premise in mind, offering a breakdown ofactivities and outfitters in our special-interest chapters.
However, if your trip happens to be limited to a specific region—for example, if your great-uncle on your father’s side has sent you a
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unofficial T I PAdjust your perspectiveand think s-l-o-w.
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ticket to Fairbanks, or if you have just enough frequent-flier miles toget you to Anchorage—simply start by perusing our region-by-regionchapters. More details on each area are available in their respectivechapters, but here’s a quick overview.
S O U T H C E N T RA L I N L A N D A L A S KAS O U T H C E N T R A L I N L A N D A L A S K A begins with the state’s largest population center, the municipality of Anchorage, and moves inland toward Talkeetna to the north and the Copper River–Glennallen corridorto the west. At just over 280,000 people—more than 40% of the state’sresidents—Anchorage is the hub of Alaska’s economy. With its port,train station, and international airport, it serves as a gateway for travel-ers from around the globe. Yet the sprawling metropolis is surrounded by wilderness: the waters of Cook Inlet and the dense spruce, birch, and aspen forest of Chugach State Park. It is entirely conceivable, then, to havean outstanding outdoor adventure without ever leaving the city limits.
Naturally, Anchorage has a cosmopolitan side. Even the most discriminating travelers will find shopping, theater, art galleries, muse-ums, and fine dining to suit their tastes. A short drive south brings youto the world-class ski resort at Mount Alyeska. To the north lie suchgems as the Matanuska-Susitna Valley, which has incredible rafting, hiking, four-wheeling, and biking options, as well as a chance formountaineering, even in the summer.
S O U T H C E N T RA L COA S TA L A L A S KAT H E C OA S TA L WAT E R S A N D C O M M U N I T I E S that make up PrinceWilliam Sound, the Kenai Peninsula, and Kodiak Island are included in the region we call Southcentral Coastal Alaska. These areas areoverwhelmingly the best places for water sports such as fishing,adventure cruising, and kayaking, but don’t overlook the superiorhiking, biking, and wildlife viewing. The Kenai Peninsula satisfiesjust about any outdoor dream, which is why it is known as Alaska’splayground to residents, who flock there when they have their ownvacation time to spend.
S O U T H E A S T A L A S KAO F T E N R E F E R R E D TO A S “ T H E PA N H A N D L E , ” which reflects its status as the long, thin branch of the state holding it all together,Southeast Alaska is an especially diverse region, offering lush forests,rich native culture, and limitless coastline. It is the ideal place foradventure cruising as well as kayaking, wildlife viewing, birding, fish-ing, and biking. Of its communities, only Skagway and Haines connectto the road system, but it is an easy area to visit by air and water. Theregion’s largest city in area, Juneau, is also the state capital. Fromhere, day trips to outlying waterfront villages can easily be arranged.The state ferry system forms an integral part of life for those who callSoutheast Alaska home.
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T H E I N T E R I O RP O I N T S M AC K - DA B I N T H E M I D D L E of the state, and you’ve got theAlaska of most visitors’ imaginations: the Interior. Towering moun-tain ranges extend forever along the Parks Highway toward Fairbanks,the Interior’s largest city. In the north of the state looms the wildBrooks Range, and in the south, the Alaska Range. In between is landso wide open that when you pass a cabin or small business along theroad, you wonder how on earth the people survive.
But survive they do. The Interior is home to hardy Alaskans whobrave cold and isolation for the reward of a simple, uncluttered wayof life. In summer, endless days and temperatures in the 80s Fahren-heit bring a blessed reprieve, a time to play. This is a region rich indog-mushing expertise, remote lake and river fishing, and wilderness-hiking and backpacking opportunities galore. And if you want to seewildlife, this is the place to go.
T H E B U S H
FA N N I N G O U T F RO M T H E I N T E R I O R is land so remote, it is simplycalled the Bush. The majority of Alaska’s native people choose to residehere, often living off the land by fishing, hunting, and gathering as theirancestors did before them. The largest communities are Barrow, Nome,Kotzebue, and Bethel, augmented by dozens of villages scattered acrossthe country. We have included Southwest Alaska as part of our Bushchapter because of its remoteness and its sparse population.
The Bush’s Inupiat, Yup’ik, and Aleut natives depend on boats,snowmobiles, and dog teams to get around the mostly roadless com-munities. In winter the rivers freeze, creating ribbon highways forsnowmobile and dog-team travel; in summer, boats provide transpor-tation. Today, most communities also have airplane service, connectingthe world to these once-inaccessible places. The Bush is where someof the most adventurous of adventurers roam, rafting rivers that per-haps see fewer than a dozen people in any given year, or fishing lakesthat don’t know the feel of human footprints.
A BRIEF HISTORY ofa BIG STATET WO C E N T S A N AC R E .
That’s what William H. Seward, the man responsible for purchas-ing Alaska from Russia in 1867, negotiated for the United States.
At the time, that rate, which totaled $7.2 million, was called out-rageous. Critics said Seward was a foolish man. They called thepurchase “Seward’s Folly” and the land “Seward’s Icebox.”
But oh, what a bargain it was. Today, not only is Alaska one of themost beautiful states in the country, but it has a wealth of natural
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resources and a growing economy dependent on tourism. It’s stilllightly populated compared with other states, and it maintains afrontier attitude in many smaller communities.
The Russians were among the first to explore the area, and vestigesof their presence remain today. From their first ventures to Alaskan ter-ritory back in the 1700s, the Russians have shown that they may havesold the territory, but many of them never stopped calling it home.
Vitus Bering was the original Russian explorer. The year was 1741,and Bering and his crew reached what is now called Kayak Island.However, Bering and much of his crew perished in a shipwreck on thereturn trip. Those who survived the disastrous event and stayedthrough winter brought home luxurious sea-otter skins that spurredother Russian explorers to rush to Alaska. Grigori Shelekhov was oneof those entrepreneurs; in 1784, he founded the first permanent set-tlement in Alaska on Kodiak Island and sent Alexander Baranov tomanage his company.
Kodiak is, in fact, the first place where the Russians settled, firstin secluded Three Saints Bay and later in present-day Kodiak. Theirinfluence is evident in a modern-day walking tour of the city, includ-ing the museum, Holy Resurrection Russian Orthodox Church, andthe Saint Innocent Veniaminov Research Institute Museum. There isalso a yearly event celebrating the canonization of a Russian priest,Saint Herman, in an area outside of town called Monk’s Lagoon.
As the Russians became involved with the sea-otter-skin industry,they inevitably clashed with Alaskan natives, who saw the foreigninflux as an intrusion on their lives and livelihoods. By 1786 Russianfur traders had made their way to the Kenai Peninsula and had set-tled in the area by 1791. Russian Orthodox priests arrived and beganintroducing the natives to Christianity, and their churches grew.
But tension mounted, and in 1797 a battle for the Kenai eruptedbetween the Dena’ina Athabascans and the Lebedev Company, thefur-trading company based on the Kenai. More than 100 Russians,Dena’ina, and other natives were killed.
Meanwhile, the majority of Russians had moved east toward Sitkaand other Southeast communities, where they continued to tradefurs. By 1796, they had arrived in Yakutat, later settling in Sitka,which became their capital. The Tlingit Indians living in the areaknew that submitting to the Russians meant allegiance to their czarand slave labor for their fur-trade company. A battle between theTlingits and the Russians ensued in 1802, and nearly all the Russiansand their Aleut slaves were killed.
In 1804, undaunted by the battle, Baranov arrived ready to fight.For six days he fought the Tlingits, this time overpowering them. TheRussians named their newly acquired land New Archangel, and thesite known as Castle Hill evolved.
Sitka is one of the best places to learn about Russia’s influence on Alaska. Just take a walk around the city. Enjoy lofty views of the
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surrounding islands and ocean from Castle Hill (where, incidentally,“Russia America” officially became Alaska, U.S.A., in 1867); see a re-created Russian blockhouse; visit the old Russian cemetery and theLutheran cemetery, where the Russian Princess Maksoutoff liesburied; pass many historic houses; check out Saint Michael’s RussianOrthodox Cathedral; and visit the Russian Bishop’s House, which ispart of Sitka National Historical Park.
By the time the United States took ownership of Alaska, much ofthe Russian conflict had subsided. The next wave of activity to reachthe state had nothing to do with war and a lot to do with wealth. Goldwas discovered near Sitka in 1872, prompting the beginning of a goldrush that would peak at the turn of the century. In 1897, the largest dis-covery was made in the Klondike, stretching from Canada’s YukonTerritory into Alaska and attracting thousands of gold seekers. In 1898,prospectors found gold on the beaches in Nome, sparking another rushto the western part of the territory. The gold rush turned one-streettowns into bustling cities of thousands, seemingly overnight.
By 1906, gold production was at its peak, and Alaska got its ownnonvoting delegate to Congress. Gold mining was on the decline, butwith the influx of so many new residents, other exciting prospectsemerged. Copper mining at the Kennicott mine began, and oil pro-duction at select spots throughout the land was already under way. By1912, Alaska was named an official U.S. territory.
Although still just a territory, Alaska played a significant role in thenation’s economy, bringing in money from natural-resource develop-ment. Construction of the Alaska Railroad began in 1914, and loggingin Southeast Alaska was becoming a large industry around the sametime. In 1935, Depression-era farming families came to Alaska as partof the Matanuska Valley Project. The government-backed effort tocreate a self-sustaining farming community in Alaska gave poverty-stricken families free land in exchange for their sweat and toil in“bringing up” the wilderness into wide-open cropland and pastures.While many abandoned the project, intimidated by the harsh wintersand crude living conditions the first few years, others thrived. Today,countless generations of those first families still call the Matanuska-Susitna Valley in Southcentral Alaska their home. Visitors to the areacome to gawk at the giant cabbages, massive carrots, and other veg-etables and fruits that grow so huge during the summer.
As those valley farmers settled into their new homes, another regionof the Alaska territory came to the forefront of the public eye. Today,it’s a little-known fact that the Japanese invaded American lands dur-ing World War II, but in 1942 it was headline news. On a June day onthe remote archipelago that makes up the Aleutian Chain in South-western Alaska, just six months after the attack on Pearl Harbor inHawaii, the Japanese came. Planes from a Japanese aircraft carrierbombed the Naval Station and Fort Mears in Dutch Harbor, then
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occupied nearby Attu and Kiska islands. It was the first time since theWar of 1812 that foreign forces had occupied American territory.
Forty-two people from the islands were taken to Japan as hostages.Seventeen of them died in captivity. Meanwhile, the U.S. governmentevacuated the remaining Aleuts from their homes in the Aleutian andPribilof islands. American troops destroyed many of the homes onthe islands to prevent the Japanese from settling in too easily. Manyof the natives who once called this remote region home were not ableto return for years. Much of their settlement had been burned to theground, leaving them with nothing.
Fortunately, U.S. forces did not tolerate the occupation for toolong. By May 1943, the Japanese had been mostly defeated, but at ahigh cost to American soldiers. In the end, more than 20 U.S. pilotsand 2,500 troops perished.
With the war came better access to Alaska. Recognizing the needto reach this remote territory, the government approved funds in 1942to build the Alaska Highway. U.S. Army engineer troops designed andbuilt the primitive 1,400-plus-mile road in a mind-boggling ninemonths and six days, from Dawson Creek, British Columbia, to whatis now Delta Junction in Alaska. It was the first and only overlandconnection to the lower 48 states and still one of the primary ways ofreaching Alaska today.
Alaska gained statehood in 1959, becoming the 49th state to jointhe nation. Over the years, defining moments put Alaska in the spot-light: On March 27, 1964, on a Good Friday afternoon, a magnitude-9.2 earthquake rattled the state, wiping out the village of Chenega inPrince William Sound and the community of Portage on TurnagainArm. Other communities suffered millions of dollars in damage. Inthe end, the four-minute-long earthquake killed 131 people in Alaska,along with 14 others in Oregon and California who were swept awayby tidal waves.
In 1971, Congress approved the Alaska Native Claims SettlementAct, which gave 40 million acres and $900 million to Alaskan natives,officially recognizing their aboriginal ownership of the land. Foryears the government had been vague about its acknowledgement ofnatives’ land ownership, but the discovery of oil brought incentive forsettling the long-standing claim. The signing of the Alaska NativeClaims Settlement Act then cleared the way for the construction ofthe Trans-Alaska Pipeline System, an 800-mile raised tube that car-ries oil from the North Slope oil fields to Valdez. The construction ofthe pipeline brought thousands of workers to the state, creating awave of activity. A boom of construction followed, and for a timeAlaskans were living large.
In 1980, the Alaska legislature, led by then-Governor Jay Hammond, recognized the value of the oil resource and created whatit called the Permanent Fund, which held a quarter of all oil royalties
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for future generations and was paid out as a dividend to each quali-fied Alaskan once a year. The first checks, mailed in 1982, paid eachqualified Alaskan, including babies and children, $1,000. Today, thelegislature is attempting to raid the Permanent Fund to pay for gov-ernment. If you’re visiting Alaska and read the newspapers or watchthe news, you’ll likely see countless reports about the ongoing debate.So far, the voters have kept attempts to tap the fund at bay. In 2000,the dividend to each Alaskan reached a record high of $1,963.86. In2004, it dropped to $919.84, the first time since 1995 that it was below$1,000. By 2007, it was back up to $1,654.
Through it all, Alaskans, both native to the land and those whomoved north for a bit of adventure but decided it was a pretty goodplace to call home, have persevered. They have proved that the criticswho called Alaska “Seward’s Folly” or “Seward’s Icebox” all thoseyears ago were simply wrong. Seward just may have been the mostbrilliant man of his time, recognizing in Alaska a potential that con-tinues to shine today. Oil production, commercial fishing, and tourismare growing industries that offer Alaskans a way to earn a living in aridiculously beautiful setting. But above all, Alaska’s biggest asset isits natural environment. It is something to be celebrated, enjoyed,and, most of all, protected for generations to come.
ALASKA’S NATIVE PEOPLES and CULTURESU N L E S S YO U R O U T D O O R A DV E N T U R E includes travel in some ofthe remotest sections of the state, there’s a good chance you won’tcross paths with that many of Alaska’s native people. It’s a surpris-ingly true and unfortunate phenomenon. Alaska natives make uponly 16% of the population of today’s Alaska, although there are 11distinct cultures and 20 languages among the group as a whole.
Many natives still live in the most remote and wildest areas of thestate, and that puts them off the radar for the traveler who only blowsby the larger cities. Even though there are a fair number of natives inthe cities, too, they share these places with tens of thousands of otherpeople of all nationalities. In fact, Anchorage is technically the largestnative village in the state, considering that nearly 29,000 AmericanIndians and Alaska natives call it home. That’s a larger populationthan any of the more remote, mostly native communities.
It would be a shame to come all the way to Alaska, though, andnot learn more about the indigenous peoples who first called thisland home. Their cultures are fascinating and impressive yet hum-bling and challenging. A good number of today’s natives, especiallythose in the villages, still live entirely by the same means as theirancestors. They catch fish, harvest berries, and hunt for most of their
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food. They go whaling and hold potlatches. Their connection to theland is as close now as it was hundreds of years ago, despite the arrivalof electricity, running water, and the convenience of four-wheel-drivevehicles over dogsleds.
In general, there are three groups of Alaska natives: Indian,Eskimo, and Aleut. The terms Inuit and Native American are some-times used in place of Eskimo and Indian in an effort to be considerate,but that doesn’t always work in Alaska. It is true that in many otherplaces, Eskimo is considered a derogatory word because it is said tomean “eater of raw meat”; however, using the term Inuit is not accu-rate in an Alaskan context because the Inuit language is restricted to the peoples of Arctic Canada and portions of Greenland. InAlaska and Arctic Siberia, where Inuit is not spoken, the comparableterms are Inupiat, Yup’ik, or one of the other cultural names withinthat region.
For the most part in Alaska, Indian and Eskimo are not offensivewords. In fact, Eskimos pride themselves on their heritage. Still, ifyou feel uncomfortable using such terms, ask instead what culture anative is from. The natives of the northern reaches of Alaska will notuse the word Eskimo when answering. Instead they likely will namea more specific culture, such as Inupiat, Yup’ik, or Cup’ik.
W H E N Y O U V I S I T A N A R E A W H O S E R E S I D E N T S are predominantly natives,above all, be respectful. Just as you would while traveling in any other country,whether you’re encountering shepherds in Ireland leading their sheep home oraborigines in Australia working on their ranches, avoid the temptation to gawk.In general, treat them as you would want to be treated.
If you are close enough and able to, ask before taking photographs.Native cultural events are steeped in tradition. Many of them represent the
living or the dead and religious in nature. The same goes for native burial sites.You may notice that native Alaskans speak slowly and often take their time
in responding to a question or comment. Do not become unnerved by this orassume they do not hear you.
Likewise, try not to interrupt when conversing with native Alaskans. It ispurely a Western tendency to try finishing another person’s thoughts or to jumpin with your own opinions. By Alaska native standards, it is considered rude—although it would also be rude to point it out.
When traveling, especially in remote areas, be sure to secure the proper permits for visiting native-owned land. With the advent of the Alaska NativeClaims Settlement Act, more than 40 million acres of Alaska land is native-owned. That means it is private. Some native corporations require a fee for useof their land; others only require that visitors get permission, and a few do notallow public access at all. (For details, see “Native Lands: What You ShouldKnow,” on page 55.)
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These three designations are further divided into five cultures,based on similarities in tradition, language, and proximity. At theAlaska Native Heritage Center, considered the defining authority onthe subject, there are houses representing each of the five cultures,and visitors to the Anchorage-based center can learn how the varyingnative groups lived. They include Athabascan; Yup’ik and Cup’ik;Inupiat and St. Lawrence Island Yupik; Aleut and Alutiiq; and Eyak,Tlingit, Tsimshian, and Haida. As the state continues to grow andnew residents from all over the United States and other nations arrive,Alaska’s first peoples are finding it more important than ever to cel-ebrate their heritage and educate those who want to know moreabout them.
AT H A B A S C A NYO U ’ L L S E E T H E WO R D Athabascan spelled two ways, with a c andwith a k, but don’t be confused—they are one and the same. The geographic region for the Athabascan people traditionally begins in the Interior, just south of the Brooks Range, and follows all the way tothe Kenai Peninsula, which is described in more detail in the South-central Coastal chapter (page 332). Before the advent of modern trans-portation, the Athabascans lived along five major rivers: the Copper,Yukon, Tanana, Susitna, and Kuskokwim. They were a nomadic peo-ple, often traveling hundreds of miles to follow their best sources offood, depending upon the time of year and severity of the seasons.
Today, Athabascan people live throughout the entire state, as wellas in the lower 48 states. According to the Alaska Native HeritageCenter, “the Athabascan people call themselves ‘Dena,’ or ‘the peo-ple.’ ” They are taught a respect for all living things; hunting is forsubsistence only. They also are taught to share, perhaps a throwbackto a time when combining resources was the only way groups couldsurvive. Sharing is a community-wide belief, and those who have, give.
When you see the name Denali—and, believe us, you will if youset foot in this state—give a nod to the Athabascan people. Denali,the native name for Mount McKinley, North America’s largest peak,is an Athabascan term meaning “high one.”
T L I N G I T, H A I DA , E YA K , A N D T S I M S H I A NT H E H A I DA A R E A N I N D I A N G RO U P of about 800 who emigratedfrom Canada and now live in Southeast Alaska, Prince of Wales Island,and surrounding areas. The Tlingit, about 11,000 strong, live mostlyin the Southeast. The Tsimshian are a small group from Metlakatlaliving in the area on their own reservation. The Eyak are nativesrelated to the Athabascans but influenced greatly by the Tlingits. TheEyak language became extinct in January 2008 when its last nativespeaker, Marie Smith Jones, died at the age of 89.
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I N U P I AT A N D S T. L AW R E N C E I S L A N DY U P I K E S K I MO ST H E I N U P I AQ A N D T H E S T. L AW R E N C E I S L A N D Y U P I K people callthemselves the “Real People,” according the Alaska Native HeritageCenter, and their homelands are in northern and northwestern Alaska.They depend largely on subsistence and still hunt whales, seals, wal-rus, and other large animals, and gather berries in season. They alsohunt birds and fish when the conditions are right. These groups ofnatives are in the same category because of their similar subsistencepatterns, the way they constructed their homes, and the tools theyused to survive.
St. Lawrence Island Yupiks speak Siberian Yupik, which is differ-ent from the languages spoken by other Yup’ik Eskimos (thus thedifference in the spellings Yupik and Yup’ik).
Y U P ’ I K A N D C U P ’ I KT H E S E G RO U P S O F E S K I M O S live in Southwest Alaska in such com-munities as Nome, Unalakleet, and Perryville. Their names comefrom the dialects of the languages they speak. Like the Yupiks of St.Lawrence Island and the Inupiat of north and northwestern Alaska,they depend upon a subsistence lifestyle for their livelihood, andelders tell stories of traditional ways of life to teach younger genera-tions about their heritage.
A L E U T A N D A LU T I I QS O U T H A N D S O U T H W E S T A L A S K A are the original regions of theAleut and Alutiiq peoples, although today they live all over the stateand beyond. Traditionally, Aleuts and Alutiiqs depended upon theocean for their livelihoods, living off what they could catch from thesea, creeks, rivers, or even lakes. Their territory ranged from the NorthPacific and Bering Sea, from Prince William Sound to the end of theAleutian Chain. In places such as Kodiak Island, the influence ofRussians, which began in the 18th century, can still be seen today. TheOrthodox Church became the focal point of every village, and thenative people in these communities adopted many of the Russian tra-ditions and the language.WANT TO KNOW MORE? The Alaska Native Heritage Center, which provided the bulk of information for this section, can be contacted at8800 Heritage Center Drive, Anchorage 99506; # 800-315-6608 or907-330-8000; www.alaskanative.net.
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