Perming and neutralising techniques and problems · · 2014-04-22Perming and neutralising techniques and problems ... Perming and neutralising techniques and problems ... perming

© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 1 - Unit GH14 - Session 8.

Session 8 GH14Perming and neutralising techniques and problems

Trainer requirements to teach this lesson

For this session you will need the following:

• Handout GH14.8.1 (2 pages)• Slide GH14.8.1• Hairdressing block• Hairdressing equipment for sectioning and winding • Perm rods – short and long lengths• End papers• Water spray• Handout GH14.8.2• A wound block – Demonstration of development

test curls• Handout GH14.8.3• Handout GH14.8.4• Slide GH14.8.4 • Activity GH14.8.4 • Learner Check Session 8

Trainer notes

This session will cover:

8.1 When to use the types of sectioning techniques listed in the range

8.2 The factors that influence the use of different sized perm rods and the method of checking curl development

8.3 Methods of application of perming lotions and neutralising agents

8.4 Types and causes of problems that can occur during the perming and neutralising processes and methods of resolving perming problems

Session 8 GH14

Page 2 - Unit GH14 - Session 8. © Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.

Perming and neutralising techniques and problems8.1 When to use the types of sectioning

techniques listed in the range

Explain to learners that there are many different sectioning techniques used in the industry but for NVQ/SVQ Level 2, three are required.

Ref: Slide GH14.8.1Handout GH14.8.1

A hairdressing block

Show learners the overhead transparancies, describe the three techniques illustrated and use the block to demonstrate the techniques.

Directional WindExplain that this is used to perm the hair in a specific direction to follow a style shape.

State that there are no hard and fast rules about creating a directional wind.

Demonstrate How to take meshes for winding, showing direction of wind.

Speak about using normal length and short rods to avoid dragging hair into a rod.

Tell the learners that post-damping is usually done with this sectioning method.

Nine Section WindTell the learners that this technique is normally used for a basic perm wind.

Explain that the main advantage of this wind is that it helps hairdressers to work methodically because each section is pinned up out of the way until it is being wound.

Go on to explain that the main disadvantage is that the hair is sectioned into definite sections and the tramlines or channels can often be seen after the perm is complete, especially if the hair is fine.

Page 2 - Unit GH14 - SESSION 8. © Copyright 2003 Consumer Services Industry Authority - all rights reserved.


Session 8 GH14Demonstrate Section the block into the 9

separate areas

• 3 in the lower back of the head• 3 in the upper back of the head• 1 at either side of the head above the ears• 1 along the top of the head.

Explain that if a pre-damp technique is to be used, then learners must wind the sections in the correct order.

Tell them that the reason is that some parts of the head will come into contact with the perm lotion much sooner than others so they must first wind the areas that will take longest to develop. Go over the order in which each section is wound as is shown on the slide.

Emphasise that if post-damping is to be done then it doesn’t matter in which order they wind because the perm lotion will be applied to the whole head all at one time.

Brick WindExplain to learners that this technique is used to avoid perming tramlines/channels into the hair.

Tell them to make each section at the time the hair is to be wound. Talk about avoiding drag - they must plan the position of each rod. Show them normal length and shorter length rods, used to fit into small spaces.

Demonstrate How to create a pattern that looks like bricks in a wall.


Ref: Handout GH14.8.2

Explain to learners that the size of the rod determines the size of the curl.

Session 8 GH14


The strength of the perm lotion has nothing to do with it, this affects the condition of the hair, not the size of the curl.

Tell the learners that a good hairdresser can take almost any perming chemicals and achieve any curl result just by varying the size of the rods.

Remind them that long hair winds with more tension so the curl result may be quite firm.

Choosing the rod size

Emphasise to learners that they must choose the right sized rod if they are to achieve the required result.

Tell learners that there are three main factors to consider when making a choice:

• the degree of curl required – a small curl needs a small rod, a loose curl needs a larger rod

• the length of the hair – the more turns the rod makes when the hair is wound, the softer the curl will become. Explain that on long hair, if hair is wound from ends to roots, the curl will be tighter on the ends than it is at the roots

• if the hair is to be cut after the perm – the curl at the very ends will always be slightly curlier than the curl at the roots. This is because as the rod is wound, the diameter becomes larger with each turn, due to the hair being wrapped around it. Cutting hair after the perm will soften the curl, so a smaller rod may be used.

Checking curl development

Some perms are self-timing. Time accurately then follow manufacturer’s instructions. Recap on the development test curls at GH14.5.2.

Demonstrate Using a block that has previously been wound, show learners how to check the curl development. Explain the need to test at various parts of the head.


Session 8 GH14Explain to learners that they must found out how easily the S forms feel by pushing the hair and coaxing the ‘S’ into shape.

State that they cannot tell just by looking if the curl development is complete. Stress that if they need to leave it for another few minutes to develop further, they must remember that a perm can over process in a very short time. Tell learners to check every 3 – 5 minutes.

Discuss the need to practise taking development tests to become proficient.

Ask learners how they can stop the action of perm lotion.

The action will be stopped when the rods are rinsed. Remind learners of the importance of thorough rinsing. Stress that long thick hair may have to be rinsed for up to 15 minutes to ensure all perm chemicals are removed.


Most manufacturers of modern perms recommend post-damping.

Tell the learners that the exception is if the hair is long. Explain that perm lotion may not soak through the wound layers of hair to the points so some manufacturers advise pre-damping.


Explain that for a post-damp application:

• the hair is fully wound before perm lotion is applied

• wear PPE and apply barrier cream to the full hairline before the application starts

Session 8 GH14


• any cotton wool placed around the hairline must be thoroughly wet and squeezed out but leaving the strip still quite damp; this dilutes any perm lotion that it soaks up.

Tell learners to start the application in the nape so that no perm lotion trickles onto the face when the head is tilted forward to do the back. Emphasise that the reason is not because the nape is the slowest area to develop (the other areas will receive perm lotion within a minute or two) but for the client’s comfort and safety.

Stress that perms must be applied slowly, ensuring full coverage for an even curl result. Tell them to apply the lotion slowly enough for the hair to absorb it or chemical burns can result if it lies on the scalp. Explain the need to change cotton wool if perm lotion is absorbed and to check that none is on the towel or gown. If so, they must change it.

Pre-damp application

Stress that this method is usually only used on long hair, or if instructed by the manufacturer.

• start in the nape (slowest to develop) and end at the top (fastest to develop)

• apply to mid lengths and ends of each mesh of hair immediately before winding

• wind very quickly to reduce the risk of over processing of the first parts wound

• wear PPE throughout the process and protect the client’s skin with barrier cream

• saturate the wind but do not allow perm lotion to lie on the scalp.

Application of neutralisers

Explain to learners that neutralisers are applied in different ways:

• applied straight from the applicator bottle• foamed up on the head using a sponge• foamed up in a bowl prior to the application• instant neutralisers are sprayed forcefully onto

the hair from a special container.


Session 8 GH14Tell learners to follow manufacturer’s instructions for the recommended application method. State that the first application normally uses about 2/3 of the product.

Emphasise the need for complete coverage of the wound hair to achieve even results.

• any missed parts will straighten• maintain tension on the rods during development –

loose areas will drop• time the development accurately• carefully remove the rods and apply the remaining

1/3 of the neutraliser to the points• allow full development before rinsing.


Ref: Slide GH14.8.4

Show learners the main types of problems, the most likely causes and possible methods of resolving them.


Discuss with the learners the need to avoid the problems as shown. Explain that, if they carry out a thorough consultation, conduct all necessary tests and make decisions based on the results of those tests they will be less likely to be faced with the problems.

Emphasise that, if the learners are in any doubt about anything to do with the perm or neutralising they should seek help and advice from a more experienced member of staff rather than go ahead and perhaps create a problem to be resolved.

Ref: Activity GH14.8.4

Issue Activity GH14.8.4, to the learners Ask them to complete it. This can be done individually, in small groups in the session or in private study time.

Session 8 GH14


Now complete the Learner Check for Session 8 to check the understanding of the learners.


Session 8 GH14Perm and neutralise hairLearner Check

Session 8

1 What is the difference between a directional wind and a brick wind?

2 If you are using a pre-damp application would you wind any particular area of the hair first? If so, specify the first area to be wound and the last area to be wound.

3 What is the main benefit of using a brick sectioning method?

4 If a large rod is used to wind short hair will the result be firm or soft?

5 If the curl development test shows the formation of a definite ‘S’ shape what should you do?

6 If a perm is self-timing how long should you let it process?

7 What is the best way to check the curl development – by looking at the S shape or by looking and feeling how strong the ‘S’ formation is?

8 What PPE would you wear while making a post-damp application?

9 Is it necessary to wear PPE when applying neutraliser?

10 How much of the neutraliser is applied at the first application?

1 A directional wind can be done in almost any pattern, a brick wind is done in the pattern of a brick wall.

2 The first part to be wound would be the nape area and the last part would be the top of the head.

3 It prevents ‘tramlines’ being permed into the hair.

4 The result will be soft.

5 Rinse the perm to stop any further development.

6 Until the manufacturer’s instructions say to rinse and neutralise it.

7 By looking and checking the strength of the ‘S’ formation.

8 Gloves and apron.

9 Yes – neutraliser is a chemical.

10 Usually 2/3 of the product.


Session 8 GH14


Session 8 GH14Perming and neutralising techniques and problems

Trainer summary

8.1 When to use the types of sectioning techniques listed in the range

Remind learners of the demonstration to show:

• directional sectioning technique• nine section method• brick sectioning.


• choosing the rod size – degree of curl required, length of the hair, if it is to be cut

• checking curl development – self-timing perms, S formation.


• post-damping• pre-damping• application of neutralisers.


Recap on:• fish hooks• skin and scalp irritation• straight pieces• frizz• hair breakage.

Session 8 GH14


Perming and neutralising techniques and problems

Key/Core Skill Opportunities

There will be an opportunity to promote discussion when covering:

• GH14.8.2 the necessity for practising development tests to reach competence

Documents

Perming and neutralising techniques and problems · · 2014-04-22Perming and neutralising techniques and problems ... Perming and neutralising techniques and problems ... perming