twitter.com/lonelyplanet

facebook.com/lonelyplanet

lonelyplanet.com/newsletter

STAY IN TOUCH lonelyplanet.com/contact

AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011%03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111

USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607%510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572

UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ%020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112

Paper in this book is certified against the Forest Stewardship Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world’s forests.

Get the right guides for your trip

Looking for other travel resources?

LONELYPLANET.COMFor travel information, advice, tips & digital chapters

MAGAZINEFor travel stories, inspiration & ideaslonelyplanet.com/magazine

EBOOKSGuidebooks for your readerlonelyplanet.com/ebooks

APPSLocation-based guides for the streetlonelyplanet.com/mobile

COUNTRY & CITY• The original• Comprehensive• Adventurous

CC•

& CI& CITYTYThe original

COUNNNCOUNTTRY TRY &&The origina

YY

PHRASEBOOKPOCKET• Top sights• Local life• Made easy

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Iran .............. 2Map ................................... 416 Top Experiences ......... 6Need to Know .................. 14If You Like ......................... 16Month by Month .............. 18Itineraries ......................... 20Visas & Planning .............. 24Travelling in Iran .............. 28Regions at a Glance ........ 30

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip

UNDERSTAND IRAN

Iran Today ........................ 266History .............................. 269People ............................... 286Daily Life ........................... 289Iranian Cuisine ................. 296Faith in Iran ...................... 301Architecture ..................... 304Carpets, Art & Crafts ..... 308Literature, Music & Cinema ........................... 313Natural Environments .... 318

266

Iran Today Feeling the Pressure Iran is a country under intense pressure. With the Arab Spring felling re-gimes across the region, the isolation of international sanctions, danger-ous levels of in ation, high unemployment and the ever-present threat of a targeted military strike, you could be forgiven for thinking somethinghas to give.

In 2009, 18 months before Tunisia kicked o the Arab uprisings, it seemed to many that change would come through the ballot box. Whenthat didn’t happen millions took to the streets in support of the opposi-tion Green Movement, protesting what they claimed was a rigged elec-tion and calling for the president to step aside. But a violent crackdownended the demonstrations, its leaders were put under house arrest andthousands of regime opponents have since been jailed or disappeared.

The Green Movement was the sort of spontaneous uprising that Iranians had been predicting for 10 years. That it failed, followed by the ruthless e ciency shown in rounding up opponents, has left many people feeling hopeless and paranoid. Some Iranians we spoke with would remove the battery in their already-switched-o hone before discussing politics. At a social level, crackdowns by the Ershad morality olice and Basij (hardline militia) on dress and hairstyles have

» » Population: 78 million » » Area:

1, 648,195 sq km » » GDP:

US$480.3 billion » » GDP

growth: 2.5% » » Budget

surplus: US$35 billion » » Inflation:

22.5% » » Unemploy-

ment: 15.3% » » Population

UKIRAN US

population per sq km

≈ 32 people

TIM

BA

RK

ER

/LON

ELY P

LAN

ET IM

AG

ES ©

522–486 BC Darius I (the Great)

creates the rst superpower through sword and organisa-

tion. He divides Persia into provinces, creates

a uniform monetary system and adopts a

common language.

486–465 BC War with the Greeks

dominates Xerxes I’s reign. After burning

Athens in 480 BC, the Persians lose

control of Macedonia, Thrace and Ionia. The

Apadama Palace at Persepolis is com-

pleted.

480 BC marked the beginning of a long, slow decline that would continue, with glorious interludes, for another 150 years

Alexander the Great & the End of Persepol Young and charismatic like Cyrus before him, it was Alexander the reat of Macedonia who nally ended the First Persian Empire. Having de

THE FIRST CHARTER OF HUMAN RIGHTS…OR NOT In 1879 Assyro-British archaeologist Hormuzd Rassam unearthed a clay cylinder dur-ing a dig in the ancient Marduk temple of Babylon. What became known as the ‘Cyrus Cylinder’ bears a cuneiform inscription recording, among other things, that Cyrus ‘strove for peace in Babylon and in all his [the god Marduk’s] sacred sites’ and ‘abolished forced labour’ for those (Jews) who had been enslaved in Babylon.

These passages have been widely interpreted as a re ection of Cyrus’s respect for human rights, and many consider it the world’s rst charter of human rights. Indeed, a replica remains on permanent display at UN headquarters in New York (the original is in the British Museum), and in 1971 the cylinder became the symbol of the 2500th anniver-sary of Iranian royalty. However, not everyone agrees. Some scholars argue that Meso-potamian kings had a tradition dating back to the 3rd millennium BC of making grand and popular statements espousing social reform when they came to the throne, meaning Cyrus’s declaration was neither new nor unique.

Whether the cylinder was the world’s rst declaration of human rights or not, it seems fair to say that Cyrus was an unusually benevolent ruler for his time, and he’s well re-membered across the faiths. In the Bible both Ezra and Isaiah speak of Cyrus as a benign ruler responsible for the restoration of the temple in Jerusalem. And he is the only Gen-tile (non-Jew) designated as a divinely appointed king, or messiah, in the Tanakh.

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

PAGE

2

PAGE

265GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so youcan make sense of what you see

I SBN 978 -1 -74179 -152 -5

9 781741 791525

99625

In the Footsteps of Empire Before you come to Iran, you might be thinking the main reasons to visit the Islamic Republic are because it’s a bit ad-venturous and there’s a lot to see from the years when Persia was a great world pow-er. At some levels you’d be right. Walk-ing around the sublime, turquoise-tiled domes and minarets of Esfahan’s Naqsh-e Jahan (Imam) Square, the awesome power and beauty of the Achaemenid’s ancient capital at Persepolis, the mud-brick alleys and rooftops in Yazd, and the wonderfully immense Elamite ziggurat at Choqa Zanbil will put you in the foot-steps of some of history’s most outstand-

ing gures. And certainly you won’t nd yourself crowded out of any sights. Which is fun.

These highlights, together with the at-mospheric teahouses, bustling bazaars, deserts punctuated by historic oases and rugged mountain ranges, gives Iran more than its fair share of fantastic places to see. But to think of Iran only in terms of ‘sights’ is to miss the real story.

Rede ning Hospitality If you like people, you’ll like Iran. The Iranians, a nation made up of numerous ethnic groups and in uenced over thou-sands of years by Greek, Arab, Turkic and Mongol occupiers, are endlessly welcom-

Welcome to Iran

Nomads of the Zagros

6 About 2 million Iranians from several di erent

ethnic groups still live a nomadic existence, travelling with their goats in spring and autumn in search of pasture. Qashqa’i and Bakhtiyari nomads spend the sum-mer months in the Zagros Mountains, before heading down to the coast for the winter. You can get a taste of nomad life on a day trip from Shiraz (p 193 ), or stay with the Khamseh (and eat their delicious hand-made yoghurt) in the hills above Bavanat (p 202 ). Qashqa’i wedding ceremony

KA

MR

AN

JEB

RE

ILI/AR

AB

IAN

EYE/C

OR

BIS

©T

IM B

AR

KE

R/LO

NE

LY PLA

NE

T IMA

GES

©

5

6

9

Travelling in Iran Money Iran is a cash economy, so bring as much cash as you’ll need plus a bit more for that must-have Persian rug. Credit cards and travellers cheques are not accepted; see p 336 for details.

Phone & Internet Occasional politically motivated crackdowns notwithstanding, Iran is well connected. Prepaid SIM cards are cheap and easy to nd. Internet is widely available but many

sites are blocked; consider getting a VPN program loaded before you leave home; see p 335 and p 338 .

Getting Around Iran has a cheap, very e cient and compre-hensive bus system, a perfectly functional rail schedule and a well developed network

Questions & Misconceptions Perceptions of Iran as a land of religious extremists and downtrodden women mean that when you tell people in your home country you’re planning to go you’ll prob-ably face a volley of concerns. So let’s dispel a few misconceptions.

Is it Safe? The most commonly asked question about travel in Iran is the easiest to answer. Yes. Assuming that you avoid protests and don’t go snooping around nuclear facilities, Iran is very safe because Iranians are so keen that nothing untoward happens to you. While not unheard of, assaults and robberies are rare. We have hitchhiked across deserts, stayed in the homes of strangers and left bags in res-

iran-6-cover.indd 2iran-6-cover.indd 2 16/05/2012 1:53:55 PM16/05/2012 1:53:55 PM

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Andrew BurkeVirginia Maxwell, Iain Shearer

p220Southeastern Iran

p204Persian Gulf

p142Central Iran

p236Northeastern Iranp34

Tehran

p74Western Iran

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Safe Travel ....................... 324Directory A–Z .................. 325Transport ......................... 342Health ............................... 352Language ......................... 356 Index ................................. 366How to Use This Book ..... 375

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO

HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

ON THE ROAD

GETTING THERE & AWAY International sanctions have made Iran increasingly iso-lated, but it is fairly simple to get into the country on a plane, by train from Turkey

r across numerous border ssings from neighbouring

ries. ts and tours can be

ine at lonelyplanngs.

Arriving wrisky, as the visaprocess sees a lot oturned away (see p 24

Passport Iran will not issue visas to Israeli passport holders, and people with an Israeli pass-port will be turned away at the border (you won’t get on a ight to Iran with an Israeli passport). Similarly, having an Israeli stamp in any other passport will see you turned away or put on the next ight out.

Air The vast majority of interna-tional ights come to Tehran. However, some travellers are choosing to start or end their trip in Shiraz, saving some backtracking.

Airports & Airlines Tehran’s Imam Khomeini International Airport (IKIA) sees most of Iran’s interna-tional air tra c. It’s small, so delays are possible. Elsewhere, Shiraz, Esfahan, Bandar Abbas and Kish are(in that order) potentialluseful arrival or deparpoints, while Abadvaz, Mashhad, TZahedan arSee th

Transport

PAGE

32

PAGE

323

Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first.

No payment required

Look out for these icons:

Our author’s top recommendation A green or

sustainable option

TEHRAN . . . . . . . . . . . .34AROUND TEHRAN . . . . . . . . 70Holy Shrine of Imam Khomeini 70Behesht-e Zahra . . . . . . . . . . 71Rey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71Alborz Ski Resorts . . . . . . . . 71Mt Damavand . . . . . . . . . . . .73

WESTERN IRAN . . . . . 74Bazargan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75Maku . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75Around Maku. . . . . . . . . . . . .78Orumiyeh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79Lake Orumiyeh . . . . . . . . . . .82Maraqeh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83Around Maraqeh. . . . . . . . . 83Tabriz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84Around Tabriz . . . . . . . . . . . .93Jolfa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93Aras River Valley . . . . . . . . . 94Kaleybar & Babak Castle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95Ardabil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96Astara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99Astara to Rasht . . . . . . . . . 100Rasht . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100Around Rasht . . . . . . . . . . .105Masuleh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106Ramsar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106Chalus & Noshahr . . . . . . .107Around Chalus . . . . . . . . . .107

On the Road

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

Qazvin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108Alamut Valley . . . . . . . . . . . 112Soltaniyeh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115Zanjan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116Takht-e Soleiman . . . . . . . . 118Sanandaj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119Palangan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123Howraman . . . . . . . . . . . . .123Paveh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124Kermanshah . . . . . . . . . . . .124Bisotun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128Hamadan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128Around Hamadan . . . . . . . .134Dorud & Lake Gahar . . . . .134The Dorud-Andimeshk Railway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .135Andimeshk . . . . . . . . . . . . .135Shush . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .136Choqa Zanbil & Haft Tappeh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137Shushtar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .138Ahvaz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .140

CENTRAL IRAN . . . . . 142Qom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .143Kashan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146Around Kashan . . . . . . . . . .152Esfahan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .153The Zagros Mountains . . . 171Dasht-e Kavir . . . . . . . . . . . 173Yazd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175Around Yazd . . . . . . . . . . . .185Shiraz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187

Persepolis . . . . . . . . . . . . . .198Naqsh-e Rostam & Naqsh-e Rajab . . . . . . . . . .201Pasargadae . . . . . . . . . . . . 202Bavanat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202Firuz Abad . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202Kazerun & Bishapur. . . . . 203

PERSIAN GULF . . . . 204Kish Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205Bandar e-Lengeh . . . . . . . .210Bandar Abbas . . . . . . . . . . . 211Qeshm Island . . . . . . . . . . .214Hormoz Island . . . . . . . . . .218

SOUTHEASTERN IRAN . . . . . . . . . . . . . .220Meymand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222Kerman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222Around Kerman . . . . . . . . 229Rayen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .231Bam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .231Zahedan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233Mirjaveh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235

NORTHEASTERN IRAN . . . . . . . . . . . . . .236Tehran to Gorgan . . . . . . . .237Gorgan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .237Around Gorgan . . . . . . . . . 242Semnan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242Around Semnan . . . . . . . . 244Damghan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244Around Damghan . . . . . . . 245

Gonbad-e Kavus . . . . . . . . . 245Around Gonbad-e Kavus. . .246Bajgiran . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .247Mashhad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248Around Mashhad . . . . . . . 259Mashhad to Sarakhs . . . . .261Sarakhs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .261Kalat (Kalat Naderi). . . . . 262The Road to Afghanistan . . . . . . . . . . . . 262

PE

RS

I AN

GU L F

S

C A S P I A NS E A

EuphratesRiver

Shattal-Arab(Arvand-rud)

TigrisRiver

Yazd

Tabriz

Orumiyeh

Sanandaj

Hamadan

Arak

KhorramabadIlam

Rasht

Sari

Zanjan

Semnan

EsfahanShahr-e Kord

Yasuj

Ahvaz

Shiraz

Bushehr

Jolfa

Abadan

Sirjan

Qom

Gorgan

Astara

BazarganMaku

Razi

Maraqeh

Ardabil

Soltaniyeh

Ramsar

Chalus

Qazvin

Babol

Turkmenbashi

Damghan

KashanKermanshah

Bisotun

Khorramshahr

Karaj

Gonbad-e Kavus

Sero

Shahrud

DOHA

MANAMA

TEHRAN

BAKU

ABU DHABI

Masuleh

BAGHDAD

Khoy

Mahabad

Bijar

Bandar-e Anzali

Borujerd

Dezful

Qomsheh

Al-Basra

Abadeh

Abarqu

Kazerun

JahromFiruz Abad

Fasa

RIYADH

Dhahran

Mosul

Kangan

Noshahr

Najaf

Dubai

Yüksekova

Doÿubayazit

Astara

Culfa

Khosravi

Miyando'ab

Takab

Marivan

Saveh

Malayer

Natanz

Ardestan

Dogonbadan

Nur Abad

NeirizBorazjanAhram

Khormuj

Lar

Marand

Azadshahr

Andimeshk

Dandy

Kelardasht

Dorud

AgarakNorduz

Ahar

Bandar-eTorkaman

Gyzyl-EtrekInchehBorun

Qorveh

Firuzkuh

Khur

Bafgh

Na'in

ArdakanShushtar

Mehran

KUWAITCITY

Bandar-eImam Khomeini Bavanat

Shahr-eBabak

Bandar-eLengeh

Bandar-eCharak

Garmeh

Shush

Choqa Zanbil

Persepolis

Pasargadae

Gürbulak

Takht-eSoleiman

Al b o r z M o u n t a i n s

Za g r o s

Mo u n t a i n s

Z a rd kou h M ountains

Mt Ararat(5137m)

MtDamavand(5671m)

Mt Sahand(3707m)

Mt Sabalan(4811m)

Mt Oshturan(4070m)

38ºN

40ºN

30ºN

50ºE

52ºE 54ºE

28ºN

26ºN

Lake Bakhtegan

Lake Tashk

Lake Van

LakeOrumiyeh

LakeNamak

Kish Island

KharkIsland

QeshmIsland

LavanIsland

D a s h t - e

Ali Sadr Caves

DenaRange

Alamut Valley

KarunRiver

QATAR

BAHRAIN

KUWAIT

I R A Q

ARMENIAA Z E R B A I J A N

AZERBAIJAN

T U R K E Y

S A U D IA R A B I A UNITED

ARABEMIRATES

Mt Sir(4074m)

Persepolis

Shiraz

Choqa Zanbil

Esfahan

Yazd

Kashan

Takht-e Soleiman

Tabriz Masuleh

Ruined but still gloriousAchaemenid capital (p198)

The heartland ofPersian culture (p187)

Incredible 3000-year-oldziggurat (p138)

Majestic Safavid capital –a must-see (p153)

Desert city with romantictraditional hotels (p175)

Low-key town withexquisite old mansions (p146)

Lonely, windswept Zoroastriantemple complex (p118)

World Heritage–listed bazaar (p84)

Most accessible ofIran's stepped villages (p106)

› Iran

G u l f o f O m a n A R A B I A N S E A

Strait of Hormoz

Kerman

Mahan

Mashhad

Zahedan

Tus

Neishabur

Taybad

Herat

MirjavehBam

Chabahar

Sarakhs

ASHGABAT

Tabas

JaskKarachi

Sabzevar

Quchan

Bojnurd

Shirvan

Gonabad

Birjand

Iranshahr

Gahkom

DUSHANBE

KABUL

Bandar Abbas

Zabol

Saraghs

Taftan

BajgiranAshkhanehDargaz

Qa'en

Khaf

Ferdous

FahrajJiroft

KhashKahnuj

Esfarayen

Torbat-eHedariyeh

Torbat-e Jam

Rayen

Shahdad

MinabLaft

Kalat Naderi

Kuh-e KhajehPayehM

ountains

Mt Hezar(4420m)

Mt Taftan(4042m)

56ºE

60ºE 62ºE 64ºE 66ºE 24ºN

Lake Sistan

LakeHamun

Hormoz Island

Larak Island

D a

sh

t -e

Lu

t

K a v i r

K a r a k u m D e s e r t

K a l u t s

U Z B E K I S T A N

OMAN

T U R K M E N I S T A N

P A K I S T A N

A F G H A N I S T A N

TAJIKISTAN

OMAN

Mt Lalezar(4374m)

ELEVATION

500m1000m2000m3000m

250m0

Qeshm Island

Alamut Valley Alborz Ski Fields

Mashhad

Tehran

Garmeh

Kaluts

Sleepy Bandari villages,amazing geology (p214)

Hike among the Castlesof the Assassins (p112)

Cheap, steep, untrackedslopes (p71)

Shrine of Imam Reza,Iran's holiest site (p248)

Modern Iran – galleries,cafes, restaurants (p34)

Desert oasis withmemorable homestay (p174)

Camp among 10-storeysandcastles (p230)

Top Experiences ›

0 200 km0 120 miles

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Andrew Burke Coordinating Author, Tehran, Southeastern Iran Andrew has been fascinated by Iran and captivated by its people since his fi rst visit in 2003, when in three months he was invited home to lunch more than 30 times. As well as enjoying endless tea and unforgettable hospitality, Andrew has photographed and written about Iran for three editions of this guide and for Lonely Planet’s Middle East guide, blogged for lonelyplanet.com and reported on the Bam earthquake and

several elections for major newspapers. For Lonely Planet he has also covered Laos, Thailand, China, Burma and PNG, among others. When not travelling he lives in Sydney.

Virginia Maxwell Central Iran, Persian Gulf Based in Australia, Virginia spends part of every year in the Middle East indulging her passions for history, art, architecture and food. She has covered Egypt, Lebanon, Syria and the UAE for Lonely Planet, is the author of LP’s Istanbul and Pocket Istanbul guidebooks, and contributes to the Turkey guidebook. Since researching this title, she has come to the conclusion that Iranian people are among the

most friendly and helpful she has ever encountered.

Iain Shearer Western Iran, Northeastern Iran Iain is an archaeologist and Research Affi liate at the British Museum and the Centre For Applied Archaeology, University College London. He has worked extensively on the archaeology of the Persian speaking world and has excavated in Afghanistan, the Balkans, Central Asia, Iran & the Arab Middle East. He is a Fellow of the Royal Asiatic Society of the United King-dom & Ireland. Iran and its people have a special place in his heart.

Read more about Andrew at:lonelyplanet.com/members/andrewburke

Read more about Virginia at:lonelyplanet.com/members/virginiamaxwell

OUR WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9836th edition – Aug 2012ISBN 978 1 74179 152 5© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

itiner-aries

Whether you’ve got five days or are aiming, with an extension, for 50, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

Tehran

Kashan

Esfahan Yazd

Abarqu

Shiraz

PAKISTAN

TURKMENISTAN

AFGHANISTAN

CASPIANSEA

PERSIANGULF

ARABIAN SEAQATAR OMAN

UNITEDARAB

EMIRATES

SAUDI ARABIA

KUWAIT

TURKEY

IRAQNatanz

Fahraj

PersepolisPasargadae

É

É

É

#•

#•#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#_

Two Weeks, Tehran to ShirazClassic Iran

In two weeks it’s possible to see the jewels of Iran’s rich history. Start in Tehran and spend two days seeing the major sights, including the Golestan Palace, National Jewels Museum and Tehran Bazar. Take a bus to Kashan, where you can explore the bazaar, check out the Qajar-era traditional houses and chill out in the Fin Garden.

Stop for a couple of hours to check out the mosque and tomb in Natanz en route to ar-chitecturally magnifi cent Esfahan and spend three days exploring the blue-tiled mosques of Naqsh-e Jahan (Imam) Square, the bustling Bazar-e Bozorg, the sublime bridges across the Zayandeh River and the Armenian community at Jolfa.

Head to the desert trading city of Yazd for a couple of days wandering the maze of lanes, gaping at the Masjed-e Jameh (Jameh Mosque) and climbing to the Zoroastrian Towers of Silence. For a change of pace, stop in the desert village of Fahraj for two nights before spending a day visiting ancient Pasargadae and Persepolis on the way to Shiraz. Spend two days in Shiraz, where you can see the Zand-era gardens and bazaar, and wander the old city. Fly back to Tehran.

20

Tehran

Kashan

EsfahanYazd

Shiraz

Tabriz

Qazvin

Zahedan

BamRayen

PAKISTAN

TURKMENISTAN

AFGHANISTAN

CASPIANSEA

PERSIANGULF

ARABIAN SEAQATAR OMAN

UNITEDARAB

EMIRATES

SAUDI ARABIA

KUWAIT

TURKEY

IRAQ

PersepolisPasargadae

Mirjaveh

Kaluts

Bishapur

Meymand

Firuz Abad

Garmeh

Farahzad

Masuleh

Soltaniyeh

Kandovan

JolfaMaku

#•#•

#•#•

#•

#•

#•#•

#•

#•#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•#•

#•#•

#•

#•

#•#•

#•#•

Kelardasht

Bavanat KermanMahan

É

É

É

Chak Chak

Castles ofthe Assasins

#•#• #•

#• ‚

#_

É

É

É

One Month, Maku to MirjavehTurkey to Pakistan

Travellers with an adventurous bent have been following this 4420km overland route from Europe to subcontinental Asia for centuries. It’s doable in less time, but you’ll need a month to really appreciate Iran’s diversity without feeling you’re constantly on the move. The journey is serviced by regular buses and some trains.

With its soaring canyon, Maku makes a pleasant introduction before spending three days in Tabriz, which has a fi ne bazaar, then checking out Jolfa and the troglodyte homes at Kandovan, before heading via Zanjan for a look at the remarkable Oljeitu Mausoleum at Soltaniyeh. Continuing east, historic Qazvin is the staging point for excursions into the spectacular Alamut Valleys to walk among the ruined Castles of the Assassins. Head north via Rasht to lush Masuleh, a charming village ideal for chilling out before dashing along the Caspian Coast to reach Kelardasht in a beautiful setting, then zigzag up through the dramatic Alborz Mountains to Tehran.

Spend three days in Tehran seeing the museums, galleries and taking in the hustle and bustle, then head south for a couple of days to Kashan with its World Heritage–listed Fin Garden. Bus it to Esfahan where you’ll need three or four days to soak up the sights of the Safavid-era capital, and then head east for a village homestay in Farahzad or Garmeh in the vast Dasht-e Kavir desert. From the desert head south to the Silk Road trading city of Yazd, stopping in the spectacular Zoroastrian pilgrimage site at Chak Chak en route.

Plan to spend three days exploring the narrow lanes and desert architecture of Yazd be-fore heading to Shiraz via Pasargadae and Persepolis. Spend two days in Shiraz taking in the bazaar, gardens and poet’s shrines, and another on a day trip to Bishapur or Firuz Abad. Continue to Kerman, stopping for a night with nomads in Bavanat (during spring or autumn) or in a cave at Meymand. Using Kerman as a base, plan for three days explor-ing Mahan, Rayen and the desert stars in the Kaluts. Stop in Bam to see what remains of the Arg and just rest a while in this ancient oasis town. Then blast through Zahedan to the Pakistan border at Mirjaveh before your visa expires.

21PLAN

YOUR TRIP IT

INER

AR

IES

CASPIANSEA

ShushShushtar

Tabriz

Rasht

ZanjanQazvin

Bijar

SanandajPalangan

Kermanshah

Khorramabad

Tehran

Ardabil

TURKEY

IRAQ

TURKMENISTAN

Masuleh

Soltaniyeh

KandovanKhal Khal

St Stephanos

Alamut ValleyTakht-e Soleiman

Choqa Zanbil

É

É

#•

#_

#•

Taq-e Bostan

#• #•

#•

#• #•#•

#•#•

#•

#•

#•

#• #•

Qal-eh Rudkhan

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•#•

#•

É

É

É

#•Howraman Valley

#•Bisotun

Jolfa

18 days, Tehran to ShushtarGo West

This intriguing meander west is ideal for those who’ve seen the main desert city sites or are confi dent in navigating through areas often unaccustomed to foreigners. The route over mountains and valleys boasts eight of Iran’s 13 World Heritage Sites (denoted here with an *), but should be just as memorable for the people you’ll meet

on the journey. The remotest sections will require charter taxis, but rides cost only about US$10 per hour. Note that in winter, mountain roads can be cut by snow.

Starting in Tehran, head west to Qazvin and spend the afternoon exploring the historic city, before driving into the Alamut Valley to hike among the fabled Castles of the Assas-sins. From Qazvin go over the Alborz Mountains to Rasht, and on through paddy fi elds and forests to the stepped village of Masuleh. Spend a day exploring the village and surround-ing hills, or hiking up to Qal-eh Rudkhan. Hire a taxi and, forsaking the dull coast, spend a memorable day climbing through nomad country to Ardabil via Khal Khal. In Ardabil visit the magnifi cent Sheikh Safi -od-Din Mausoleum* before settling in bustling Tabriz for a few days. Explore the brilliant covered bazaar* and the contrasting Valiasr District, do your laundry, and allow a day for an excursion to the quaint troglodyte village of Kandovan, and maybe another for Jolfa and the ancient Church of St Stephanos*.

Refreshed, head southeast and use Zanjan as a base to see the magnifi cent Mongol-era Oljeitu Mausoleum* at Soltaniyeh. From Zanjan, take the starkly beautiful mountain road to lonely Takht-e Soleiman*, once the world’s greatest Zoroastrian fi re-temple complex. Sleep in Bijar and continue to hospitable Sanandaj, capital of Iranian Kordistan. Spend a day exploring the city and another for a trip to Palangan or, for adventurers, a taxi ride through the endless hair-pins of the Howraman Valley. Either way, fi nish the day in Ker-manshah and spend the following day visiting the Achaemenid-era stone carvings of Taq-e Bostan and Bisotun*.

Hop south for a quick stop in the charming Lurish capital of Khorramabad, with its picturesque hilltop fortress, before continuing to Shushtar, with its mesmerising, Roman-built hydraulic irrigation complex*. Base yourself here for visits to the ruins of ancient Shush and Choqa Zanbil*, a magnifi cent 3000-year-old Elamite ziggurat.

22

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ITIN

ERA

RIES

AFGHANISTAN

TURKMENISTANCASPIAN

SEA

Yazd

Kerman

GorganMashhad

Tehran

Torbat-e Jam

Khur

Na'in

Esfahan

#•

Toudeshk

Kaluts

Garmeh

Farahzad

Chak Chak

Fahraj

Gonbad-e Kavus

Mil-e Radkan

Kalat Naderi

Neishabur

KangTus

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•#•

#•É

É

É

#_

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•#•#•

#•

É

É

É

#•Golestan National Park

Desert DetourMashhad Pilgrimage

10-12 Days, Esfahan to KermanDesert Detour

If you’ve ever dreamt of the oasis towns of the 1001 Nights or are drawn to hospitable homestays, this trip is for you. It’s doable by taking infre-

quent buses, but the odd taxi dar baste can reduce waiting time. Avoid the summer heat by travelling between October and April.

Start in Esfahan and take a bus to Toudeshk for a night and a morning in the shifting sands of the Varzaneh Desert, before continuing to see the traditional houses of Na’in. From Na’in take the bus east to Khur, where you get a taxi to Farahzad and/or Garmeh for desert homestays that redefi ne hospitality; plan for three days all up.

Continue to Yazd via Chak Chak, and check into an atmospheric traditional hotel in the old town. Spend two days exploring the old city, the Zoroastrian Towers of Si-lence and a qanat, the underground water veins that keep these desert cities alive and if you’re fi t perhaps a trek into the desert. Heading south stop in Fahraj or the re-stored Caravanserai Zein-o-din for one night, before moving on to Kerman, from where you can take a tour to the remarkable ‘sand castles’ of the Kaluts.

10 Days, Tehran to MashhadMashhad Pilgrimage

Take the train or bus from Tehran to Gorgan, nestled attractively in the Alborz mountains. Gorgan makes a great base for visiting the Turkmen

steppe and the remote Mil-e Radkan tow-er. If you’re impressed by this tower, you’ll want to visit the incredible 1000-year-old tomb-tower of Mil-e Gonbad, in Gonbad-e Kavus, before visiting the forested moun-tains of Golestan National Park, perhaps staying at The Turkmen Ecolodge.

Next up, travel to Iran’s holiest city of Mashhad, where you can revel in the ec-stasy of pilgrims in the stunning and mas-sive Haram-e Razavi complex and visit the beautifully proportioned Boq’eh-ye Khajeh Rabi mausoleum. Mashhad is a great base for exploring the hinterlands by foot, bicycle or horseback. Nearby Kang is a photogenic stepped village of stacked mud-brick homes. The mausoleum of 11th-century poet, Fer-dosi is found in Tus, while Omar Khayyam has his tomb in Neishabur. The impressive mountain cliff s of Kalat Naderi lie to the north, or you can take tea with the Afghans at Torbat-e Jam.

Mashhad is a gateway to Central Asia; otherwise fl y back to Tehran or continue south by bus or train into the desert.

23PLAN

YOUR TRIP IT

INER

AR

IES

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd